Came here to see how you removed the cab bolt. Thank you so much. Saved me another 5 hours of grinding around a bolt to replace the cab mount. I stayed to watch the rest of the video. Very nice job!
I'm impressed with the details you provide on your videos , watched the spindle gusset vid . I feel a marathon is in order , and don't even have a Sequoia.
That's dope I bet it is hard to cut, it's pretty damn expensive too! I priced out some 2.5" diameter UHMW tube. I was thinking of selling some 1" Sequoia kits but it just didn't make financial sense.
Those seats and glass weigh more than you think. I personally won’t run body lifts but given the condition of your old hardware I don’t blame you for taking advantage of that kit and gaining the 1” of up travel. Great video.
Truthfully I've always been against them too. I've seen too many awful hack job installs over the years, like a 5 inch body lift on a K5 Blazer with rusted out floors & cab mounts lol. But after researching it and thinking it through, a one inch lift with grade 8 hardware seemed fine. I wouldn't go much higher (if at all) because yeah, the Sequoia's weigh almost an entire TON more than the Tacoma's or older 4Runners. Thanks for your insight as always my man.
@@treehouseoffroad yeah I posted before the end of the video lol and drove 6 hours to north Michigan I should have edited it I run no sway bars but I run a lighter set up on my rig. Hope to wheel with you soon. Keep the videos coming
One thing I can't stand on trucks is when the front track width is wider than the rear. With the Tundras it's easy, you just get bedsides to match the bulge fenders. With the Sequoia there's nothing like that so idk... With the long travel I'll definitely need to do something to address the fenders soon though. I think I'll chop 'em up and see what it looks like
@@treehouseoffroad I hear that, I just purchased some and had to add 1.5in spacers and it looks better. I also just received my 1in body lift from the link you had on that video. Love your sequoia
you don't need to do any topside retention to remove, the splined oem bolts are connected to those indexed washers, so they hold them selves from turning.
haha, just commenting my inner voice. Could be wrong though, as the OEM washers looked to be captive, but not indexed, but the OEM bolts did appear to have splines...weird, no? @@treehouseoffroad
@@bjlanders Yes some were captive and all had washers held on by splines IIRC. Been running regular bolts w/nylocs on body lifts since my Jeep days with no issues. I'm sure Toyota has their reasons I just don't know them lol
do you have our vehicles have an aftermarket body mount bushings that could work? I've found a universal kit from energy suspension that'll fit the 1st gen Tundra just not sure if it'll work for 1st gen sequoia.
I recommend you reach out to Roger Brown at 4crawler.com. He's a Toyota Wizard that makes the body lifts and I believe he offers a stock option. Tell him Treehouse Offroad sent ya! 4CrawlR@gmail.com
I have a 2005 Sequoia and I had a question about the Sequoia body mount bushings, that maybe you would have some advice on. Ive noticed while driving mine off road, or just hitting a good size pot hole on the street that there's a lot of reverberation that rattles through the body. My suspension is all good. I changed the lower ball joints with OEMs when I bought and lifted the truck as it had 180k on the original ball joints. Im running Fox 2.0 up front and Dobinsons in the rear, all brand new, set a 2". All my control arm bushings are good. Running Suspension Maxx extended sway bar links, Energy Suspension poly steering rack bushings. All that to say there's nothing loose in the suspension and Im pretty OCD about that stuff. Tires are fairly new Michellins and stock size. I know, I know . . . that makes no sense. Just havent decided which size ATs I want yet. But the tires are about as smooth riding as a tire can be. So the reverberation is definitely in the body. So I was looking at the frame and body and noticed theres like a 6 foot gap right in the middle of the body with no body mounts between the body and frame. So you have all that sheet metal just floating with nothing to support it there. My old 98 4runner, which is obviously much smaller and lighter that the Sequoia, had bushings there in the center of the body. So 10 bushings on the 4runner, and only 8 bushings on the Sequoia. I believe thats why there's so much reverb through the body. So is that just a normal unavoidable thing for the Sequoia? Have you noticed that same body reverberation/rattle with yours? Im pretty new so to the Sequoia world, so figured I should ask. Thanks
I've also wondered why Toyota would put less body mounts on a bigger vehicle. I have a long list of questions that I've come up with over the years just in case I ever get the chance to sit down with a Toyota engineer. That being said I've owned three Sequoias and never had a problem with the body mounts. How do yours look? Is there visible deterioration? Can you bend or deform them by hand? If I were faced with your issue I would mount a GoPro under the truck on a magnetic mount and just drive around. I've identified many problems this way, sounds or clunks I just couldn't figure out. Stick it under there and drive around the block. Move it around strategically to where you think the noise is coming from then review the footage. It sounds like you already addressed the usual suspects. You extended the rear sway bar links as well?
@treehouseoffroad yeah, the body mounts look good. The truck is in really good condition for 180k. I think I'm just feeling vibration in the sheet metal between the front and rear body mounts, and hearing all the vibrations in the interior. I've seen a couple of people mention the 1st gen sequoia has a lot of interior rattles. I'm running the SuspesionMaxx extended sway bar links. And I'm not crazy about them. Wish I had gone with SRQ fabrications links.
Nice! I need to install my 4crawler 1in BL on my first gen Tundra, before I attempt to fit 35's. Do you have OEM LCAs? I'm wanting to go with the Solo LCAs just to be sure the 35's will fit my rig with 3in Kings and SPC UCAs.
I currently have a long travel setup but yes in this video I was running factory lowers. With the SPC's and a little modificatioon to the pinch weld you can definitely fit 35's
Great video man! Unrelated question - do your sliders touch the pinch welds on the rocker panels? Mine touch now that they are all welded in and I'm considering a body lift as opposed to cutting and re-welding. If they do touch have you had any issues?
I have bolt on sliders from Rocky Road outfitters, which I do not recommend. They do touch. After my trip to the Rubicon Trail they got bent up and now I can hardly open/close my doors 🤬
Hey man, question. When you said you should've just loosened the bolts on the rag joint, then done the body lift...did you still need to drill out the groove for the bolt to pass through once the body lift was installed? I'm facing this issue. Haven't installed my 1.5 inch BL yet but wondering how I'd be able to make that rag joint mod work. I have a 2 inch BL on my 3rd gen 4R and the kit came with a steering spacer. The current kit I have for my Sequoia didn't come with one. Trying to figure out the best move. Was thinking maybe I could get 2 long bolts and bolt the upper and lower shafts together post body lift if the rag joint mod doesn't work
@Treehouse Overland instead of waiting another 3 weeks for 4Crawler to send me a spacer, I was thinking I could utilize 2 long grade 8 bolts and nuts and essentially connect the 2 halves together with no spacer in between. Basically the bolts would just be exposed with no spacer for them to go through. Assuming the bolts are torqued to spec wouldn't that work just fine?
Since this video I made my own 2" body lift, it's super easy. Just pull out the bolt and add however many inches you want your pucks to be. I used 3" diam UMHW solid rod from Amazon, cut it into pucks, and drilled holes through it
I included the email address of the owner of the company in the description. Just reach out to him and tell him what you need, he replies pretty quickly
Sequoia Fam is right! The cable system and actuator motor were completely gummed up and stuck. Somebody used the wrong type of grease and it turned into a nightmarish thick paste. The glass is fine, it's the internals that need to be replaced.
@@treehouseoffroad curious to see that video, mine is that way too. Last I researched I need a new track/cable assembly which is only available OEM and spendy. So I just pulled the fuse for now.
The light is on but she's fine with it. We don't have to pass smog again for 18 months or so, I plan on reinstalling them temporarily when that time comes. I might just get another Skid Row transmission skid/cat protector setup too.
@@treehouseoffroad Fortunately I dont have emissions tests where I live. Id really like to find a way to tune the post cats to just be off. My rig runs fine, but smells a tad rich.
We just had it smogged so we've got 23 months before we have to worry about it again. Everybody in my neighborhood was getting hit for their cats so it just seemed like the most cost effective move.
@@treehouseoffroad these kids have the whole world at their finger tips and have no idea. Us old farts remember marbles, pogs, and slammers like it was yesterday.
Updated Info:
The steel sleeves are supposed to come apart from the rubber bushings. They are separate part numbers.
Came here to see how you removed the cab bolt. Thank you so much. Saved me another 5 hours of grinding around a bolt to replace the cab mount. I stayed to watch the rest of the video. Very nice job!
Awesome happy to help
I'm impressed with the details you provide on your videos , watched the spindle gusset vid . I feel a marathon is in order , and don't even have a Sequoia.
Hey thanks man!
I made my own UHMW 1” body lift for my 80 series Land Cruiser. That stuff is hard to cut!
1” is the way to go for when you need “just a little more”!
That's dope I bet it is hard to cut, it's pretty damn expensive too! I priced out some 2.5" diameter UHMW tube. I was thinking of selling some 1" Sequoia kits but it just didn't make financial sense.
One of the nicest sequoias out there, even better in person. Love the stance on it, good amount of clearance! Keep it up brotha!
Likewise Brother Love your truck!
Finn you are a beast. Great mod video as always brother.
Thanks Ryan!
Those seats and glass weigh more than you think. I personally won’t run body lifts but given the condition of your old hardware I don’t blame you for taking advantage of that kit and gaining the 1” of up travel. Great video.
Truthfully I've always been against them too. I've seen too many awful hack job installs over the years, like a 5 inch body lift on a K5 Blazer with rusted out floors & cab mounts lol. But after researching it and thinking it through, a one inch lift with grade 8 hardware seemed fine. I wouldn't go much higher (if at all) because yeah, the Sequoia's weigh almost an entire TON more than the Tacoma's or older 4Runners.
Thanks for your insight as always my man.
@@treehouseoffroad yeah I posted before the end of the video lol and drove 6 hours to north Michigan I should have edited it I run no sway bars but I run a lighter set up on my rig. Hope to wheel with you soon. Keep the videos coming
All you need now us the 4" buldge fenders
One thing I can't stand on trucks is when the front track width is wider than the rear. With the Tundras it's easy, you just get bedsides to match the bulge fenders. With the Sequoia there's nothing like that so idk...
With the long travel I'll definitely need to do something to address the fenders soon though. I think I'll chop 'em up and see what it looks like
@@treehouseoffroad I hear that, I just purchased some and had to add 1.5in spacers and it looks better. I also just received my 1in body lift from the link you had on that video. Love your sequoia
@@danieltorres-qk4fm Good stuff man the body lift helps. I'm currently running 3 inch spacers in the rear, the thing is WIDE
you don't need to do any topside retention to remove, the splined oem bolts are connected to those indexed washers, so they hold them selves from turning.
Not sure if this is a question or a statement...
haha, just commenting my inner voice. Could be wrong though, as the OEM washers looked to be captive, but not indexed, but the OEM bolts did appear to have splines...weird, no?
@@treehouseoffroad
@@bjlanders Yes some were captive and all had washers held on by splines IIRC. Been running regular bolts w/nylocs on body lifts since my Jeep days with no issues. I'm sure Toyota has their reasons I just don't know them lol
You are the man Phinn!
Thanks and you are the squirrel!
do you have our vehicles have an aftermarket body mount bushings that could work? I've found a universal kit from energy suspension that'll fit the 1st gen Tundra just not sure if it'll work for 1st gen sequoia.
I recommend you reach out to Roger Brown at 4crawler.com. He's a Toyota Wizard that makes the body lifts and I believe he offers a stock option. Tell him Treehouse Offroad sent ya!
4CrawlR@gmail.com
Thanks for the walkthrough!
Thanks for watching it!
I have a 2005 Sequoia and I had a question about the Sequoia body mount bushings, that maybe you would have some advice on. Ive noticed while driving mine off road, or just hitting a good size pot hole on the street that there's a lot of reverberation that rattles through the body. My suspension is all good. I changed the lower ball joints with OEMs when I bought and lifted the truck as it had 180k on the original ball joints. Im running Fox 2.0 up front and Dobinsons in the rear, all brand new, set a 2". All my control arm bushings are good. Running Suspension Maxx extended sway bar links, Energy Suspension poly steering rack bushings. All that to say there's nothing loose in the suspension and Im pretty OCD about that stuff. Tires are fairly new Michellins and stock size. I know, I know . . . that makes no sense. Just havent decided which size ATs I want yet. But the tires are about as smooth riding as a tire can be. So the reverberation is definitely in the body. So I was looking at the frame and body and noticed theres like a 6 foot gap right in the middle of the body with no body mounts between the body and frame. So you have all that sheet metal just floating with nothing to support it there. My old 98 4runner, which is obviously much smaller and lighter that the Sequoia, had bushings there in the center of the body. So 10 bushings on the 4runner, and only 8 bushings on the Sequoia. I believe thats why there's so much reverb through the body.
So is that just a normal unavoidable thing for the Sequoia? Have you noticed that same body reverberation/rattle with yours? Im pretty new so to the Sequoia world, so figured I should ask. Thanks
I've also wondered why Toyota would put less body mounts on a bigger vehicle. I have a long list of questions that I've come up with over the years just in case I ever get the chance to sit down with a Toyota engineer.
That being said I've owned three Sequoias and never had a problem with the body mounts. How do yours look? Is there visible deterioration? Can you bend or deform them by hand?
If I were faced with your issue I would mount a GoPro under the truck on a magnetic mount and just drive around. I've identified many problems this way, sounds or clunks I just couldn't figure out.
Stick it under there and drive around the block. Move it around strategically to where you think the noise is coming from then review the footage. It sounds like you already addressed the usual suspects. You extended the rear sway bar links as well?
@treehouseoffroad yeah, the body mounts look good. The truck is in really good condition for 180k. I think I'm just feeling vibration in the sheet metal between the front and rear body mounts, and hearing all the vibrations in the interior. I've seen a couple of people mention the 1st gen sequoia has a lot of interior rattles. I'm running the SuspesionMaxx extended sway bar links. And I'm not crazy about them. Wish I had gone with SRQ fabrications links.
@@philiptaylor2567 check the exhaust system too, heat shields especially
which kit did you go with? Their website confused the hell out of me when i found out about them so I never order anything.
I added my exact order to the description in case others are confused
Nice! I need to install my 4crawler 1in BL on my first gen Tundra, before I attempt to fit 35's. Do you have OEM LCAs? I'm wanting to go with the Solo LCAs just to be sure the 35's will fit my rig with 3in Kings and SPC UCAs.
I currently have a long travel setup but yes in this video I was running factory lowers. With the SPC's and a little modificatioon to the pinch weld you can definitely fit 35's
Good video man looking forward to the other vids.
Thanks brother
Toyota Sequoia best car
Best car indeed
Great video man! Unrelated question - do your sliders touch the pinch welds on the rocker panels? Mine touch now that they are all welded in and I'm considering a body lift as opposed to cutting and re-welding. If they do touch have you had any issues?
I have bolt on sliders from Rocky Road outfitters, which I do not recommend.
They do touch. After my trip to the Rubicon Trail they got bent up and now I can hardly open/close my doors 🤬
I’m wondering if I could fit some 34x10.50 no body lift stock suspension set up🤔hmmmm how much cutting would that be 😂
Probably but maybe not. Perhapsalutely
Where can I get those body lift pucks
Link is in description
That’s so dope 🙌🏼
Hey thanks Frank!
Hey man, question. When you said you should've just loosened the bolts on the rag joint, then done the body lift...did you still need to drill out the groove for the bolt to pass through once the body lift was installed? I'm facing this issue. Haven't installed my 1.5 inch BL yet but wondering how I'd be able to make that rag joint mod work. I have a 2 inch BL on my 3rd gen 4R and the kit came with a steering spacer. The current kit I have for my Sequoia didn't come with one. Trying to figure out the best move. Was thinking maybe I could get 2 long bolts and bolt the upper and lower shafts together post body lift if the rag joint mod doesn't work
Any BL over 1" I'd definitely get a rag joint spacer. There's not enough meat on the shafts to connect them safely imo
@Treehouse Overland instead of waiting another 3 weeks for 4Crawler to send me a spacer, I was thinking I could utilize 2 long grade 8 bolts and nuts and essentially connect the 2 halves together with no spacer in between. Basically the bolts would just be exposed with no spacer for them to go through. Assuming the bolts are torqued to spec wouldn't that work just fine?
Nice just watched ur video
What website did u order the spacer for the rear cause I got the polyurethane spacers to?
I'm guessing you mean the spacer lift video? They no longer sell them
Hell yeah!!
I have a Gen 2 Crewmax Tundra. I wish I could find a company that makes a rear number like yours for it. (Minus the side protection).
Yeah have you seen this one?
Still has some side projection though
www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/1st-gen-tundra-high-clearance-rear-bumper-kit/
@@treehouseoffroad yeah a few years back it’s cool but my Crewmax is a gen 2. 😞
@@Jawad_Muhammad That's right yeah not much out there...
I wish someone had the specifications of the hardware so people could make their own
Since this video I made my own 2" body lift, it's super easy. Just pull out the bolt and add however many inches you want your pucks to be. I used 3" diam UMHW solid rod from Amazon, cut it into pucks, and drilled holes through it
So we’re can I buy it I see the link in your description but it doesn’t make much sense
I included the email address of the owner of the company in the description. Just reach out to him and tell him what you need, he replies pretty quickly
Sequoia fam....nice why did u have to replace the sunroof?
..
Sequoia Fam is right! The cable system and actuator motor were completely gummed up and stuck. Somebody used the wrong type of grease and it turned into a nightmarish thick paste. The glass is fine, it's the internals that need to be replaced.
@@treehouseoffroad curious to see that video, mine is that way too. Last I researched I need a new track/cable assembly which is only available OEM and spendy. So I just pulled the fuse for now.
Do you know the brand of headlight you purchased?
Headlight Housings:
amzn.to/3KpUcfu
Bulbs:
amzn.to/3GCXpXO
how you get around the CEL from removing the cats?
The light is on but she's fine with it. We don't have to pass smog again for 18 months or so, I plan on reinstalling them temporarily when that time comes. I might just get another Skid Row transmission skid/cat protector setup too.
@@treehouseoffroad Fortunately I dont have emissions tests where I live. Id really like to find a way to tune the post cats to just be off. My rig runs fine, but smells a tad rich.
@@Tree_Cruiser at the risk of sounding ignorant what are post cats?
What is the benefit of the bodylift as opposed to a suspension lift?
Google could probably explain it better than me. I also linked a great article in the description
So how do you keep the cel off for the down stream o2 sensors
We just had it smogged so we've got 23 months before we have to worry about it again. Everybody in my neighborhood was getting hit for their cats so it just seemed like the most cost effective move.
Oceano?
Yessir
Hahaha.. pogs
Haha good catch
Slammers 😂 bet these kids have no idea
Never blown into a Nintendo cartridge either, or actually had to wait for a tape to rewind 😂
@@treehouseoffroad these kids have the whole world at their finger tips and have no idea. Us old farts remember marbles, pogs, and slammers like it was yesterday.
I'm actually taking my Sequoia gen 1 Limited into get lifted buy off-road. Shop. They're going up three and a half inch 35-in tires
Yeah buddy!!!