Wow this is very interesting, but a tremendous amount to digest, for us old timers who are not familiar with code. Thanks again for bringing the Arduino back though. (Being an old timer; I previously used a modified version of your Arduino signal detection code from 2018. The Arduino output fed 4P double pole relays. These really outputs drove both LED signals, and NCE mini panels, that controlled switch track routing and signals).
Good video. I’m working on a 40 signal layout with 32 turnouts (including 5 double crossovers), and 16 blocks. All driven by a single arduino nano. With over 200 outputs and 50 inputs, you can imagine the complexity.
Great to see you returning to your digital roots! BTW, you do not need the 470 Ohm resistor - Arduino input pins can be configured to use the internal 20,000 Ohm pullup resistor by pinMode(_pin,INPUT_PULLUP); this keeps the voltage on _pin HIGH unless _pin is deliberately grounded (by pushing the button.) Also, your code can be simplified *enormously* by using classes: you'll create a single class called, say, Signal, and create 4 instances of that class - s1, s2, s3, and s4 - along with a variety of constants to set the signal aspects. Instead of a huge list of digitalWrite statements (which are easy to type incorrectly and difficult to debug) you'll simply say, for example, s1.aspect(RED_OVER_GREEN);
Really Cool. looks awesome. Not sure I have the ability to get that deep with the wiring but admire the work. I'll work on doing my next layout and a few modules and then see where I am.
This is WAY above my pay grade!!! I don’t even understand what’s going on! I just recently wired a DPDT switch to power the frog, and illuminate an indicator LED and that was a challenge for me!
This one was probably a stretch for some of your regular viewers. Two things: stuff like this is strictly optional and if you still really want it without understanding it, develop friends in the hobby who have specific interests. In my case, I’m slowly learning Arduino, so thanks.
Very happy to see a new Arduino project, and it's one I plan to work on for myself soon. I've got a couple of questions, though. You mentioned that the proper signal placement should be outisde the confines of a single module. I'm planning to build mine on a double T-TRAK module, so I'll have more room and can move the signals out to proper placement. Also, since all 4 signals are essentially mirrors of each other, is there a reason that you can't run them all from the same set of pins on the Arduino instead of a separate set of pins for each? Does that have to do with the future plans you hinted out?
Just getting into t trak layouts but keep getting confused regarding how to go cross over from the 2 main lines because of the BWWB standard without getting shorts. Any videos or future videos on the matter would greatly help.
Hi Jimmy! Great video! I really want to do this on my T-Trak setup as the railroad I am modeling in Ashland VA has some of these at various points between Richmond and DC. Here’s my question, how do you handle the polarity shift in the cross over from the Yellow and Red lines and vice versa?
Great project! Will this only be controllable with the push buttons. Is there a way to make this work like a stationary decoder so it can be controlled via throttle?
That's pretty cool Jimmy. I will be looking forward to when you make these work with block detection as well. Also because I am very big into signalling myself with using LCC. Do you plan on explaining the differences between how the Class 1 RR's do their signalling and I am assuming you'll adopt the NS rules since you mostly model the NS? - Jason
Sheesh, I don't know if I could go through this. It would look like a birds nest under my layout. I really want working signals and this is the kind of stuff that is holding me up trying it. I've got a couple of the Atlas signals but even those require some song and dance.
With a the two signals showing Red over Green Medium Clear. That is an accident waiting to happen, You have just gave an indication that a train on main 1 and main 2 can enter the crossover at the same time. One of those signals needs to be Red over Red (No Number Plate) or both Red over Red with a number plate for Rule 291? Stop and Proceed.
That's is a LOT of work to do what it was doing. As you said, it isn't done yet, but idk... I don't think I'd have the patience to do something so mindboggling without actually having a really worthwhile payoff. Was this your code? I remember your video on using AI to work on code. Did you use AI for any of this? In a curiou fashion and not at all "omg AI is stealing" or something. On all the wiring, I'm at least feeling proud of myself for wiring up an Athearn blue box switcher for DCC. I still need to add the speakers and lights, but still, it's a bit more than what I've done before, and it's fun to see an old loco come alive on DCC.
Shouldn't one of the other routes go to red when the crossover is switched? I mean you'd never have two routes cleared to the same crossover at the same time.
Yes you are correct. It's part of the code that I need to update. I actually have now and it works where when it goes to diverging, all the signals go red and a second button lets you select which signal is green.
Well, the MEGA is a slight overkill, in my opinion. It has enormous program memory for this task.. I get it, it's easier with that many I/O lines... However, if you use an Uno or Nano, with a PCA9685 servo board, you can spare $$$ here, I think. It's a PWM LED driver originally. Programming shouldn't be much harder. I get it that it has "only" 16 outputs, but in this close proximity driving the red and green together should be yellow, and the yellow wires from the signals can be dropped, and you have only 16 LEDs to drive this way. With the PWM duty cycle you can tune the yellow color. Probably a bit more fidgeting, than anticipated, but might still worth the time. If you still want to drive the yellow LEDs, another servo board would do the trick, on the exact same two pins, only its address must be modified. Nice work though, I really enjoy your videos.
I’d be really interested in helping you code some of this out. I’m an experienced programmer with a good deal of Arduino experience. Let me know if you’d be interested in my help 😊
If you stuck me in a jail cell with my freedom being dependent on successfully completing this project, I can guarantee that I would die in prison. Sorry Jimmy but this project is not for everyone. Maybe I’m just that crabby old guy in the room, but all of these electronics projects in model railroading these days just leave me thinking that I shouldn’t have to graduate from MIT to enjoy the hobby. Now where are those Atlas block control switches I’ve been meaning to install… saw them here just the other day…
It’s good to see the Arduino projects coming back to the channel.
Wow this is very interesting, but a tremendous amount to digest, for us old timers who are not familiar with code.
Thanks again for bringing the Arduino back though.
(Being an old timer; I previously used a modified version of your Arduino signal detection code from 2018.
The Arduino output fed 4P double pole relays.
These really outputs drove both LED signals, and NCE mini panels, that controlled switch track routing and signals).
Good video. I’m working on a 40 signal layout with 32 turnouts (including 5 double crossovers), and 16 blocks. All driven by a single arduino nano. With over 200 outputs and 50 inputs, you can imagine the complexity.
Great to see you returning to your digital roots!
BTW, you do not need the 470 Ohm resistor - Arduino input pins can be configured to use the internal 20,000 Ohm pullup resistor by pinMode(_pin,INPUT_PULLUP); this keeps the voltage on _pin HIGH unless _pin is deliberately grounded (by pushing the button.)
Also, your code can be simplified *enormously* by using classes: you'll create a single class called, say, Signal, and create 4 instances of that class - s1, s2, s3, and s4 - along with a variety of constants to set the signal aspects. Instead of a huge list of digitalWrite statements (which are easy to type incorrectly and difficult to debug) you'll simply say, for example, s1.aspect(RED_OVER_GREEN);
This is really cool. I've always been at the tinkerer level of arduino code. I would love to go deeper!.
Wow! That was quite a project. I love the nonchalant way you talk about future updates.
Really Cool. looks awesome. Not sure I have the ability to get that deep with the wiring but admire the work. I'll work on doing my next layout and a few modules and then see where I am.
This is WAY above my pay grade!!! I don’t even understand what’s going on! I just recently wired a DPDT switch to power the frog, and illuminate an indicator LED and that was a challenge for me!
Very interesting! I've been using an L298N with an ESP8266 to add remote control to my garden trains.
6 o’clock on the dot, always in time for my morning treadmill run
I had an easier time learning to fly! 😂 You are definitely the maestro of the rails. Looking forward to the completed project.
I am so excited for the ttrak series!
This one was probably a stretch for some of your regular viewers. Two things: stuff like this is strictly optional and if you still really want it without understanding it, develop friends in the hobby who have specific interests. In my case, I’m slowly learning Arduino, so thanks.
Love it. Thank you so much for this GREAT Content. Can't wait to see the the next one
Very happy to see a new Arduino project, and it's one I plan to work on for myself soon. I've got a couple of questions, though. You mentioned that the proper signal placement should be outisde the confines of a single module. I'm planning to build mine on a double T-TRAK module, so I'll have more room and can move the signals out to proper placement. Also, since all 4 signals are essentially mirrors of each other, is there a reason that you can't run them all from the same set of pins on the Arduino instead of a separate set of pins for each? Does that have to do with the future plans you hinted out?
Just getting into t trak layouts but keep getting confused regarding how to go cross over from the 2 main lines because of the BWWB standard without getting shorts. Any videos or future videos on the matter would greatly help.
Hi Jimmy! Great video! I really want to do this on my T-Trak setup as the railroad I am modeling in Ashland VA has some of these at various points between Richmond and DC.
Here’s my question, how do you handle the polarity shift in the cross over from the Yellow and Red lines and vice versa?
Great project! Will this only be controllable with the push buttons. Is there a way to make this work like a stationary decoder so it can be controlled via throttle?
That's pretty cool Jimmy. I will be looking forward to when you make these work with block detection as well. Also because I am very big into signalling myself with using LCC. Do you plan on explaining the differences between how the Class 1 RR's do their signalling and I am assuming you'll adopt the NS rules since you mostly model the NS? - Jason
Sheesh, I don't know if I could go through this. It would look like a birds nest under my layout. I really want working signals and this is the kind of stuff that is holding me up trying it. I've got a couple of the Atlas signals but even those require some song and dance.
Awesome. Thanks Jimmy
you don't need to use another pin for a 2nd button if they're NO put them in parallel, if NC, in series. you'll only need 1 resistor
With a the two signals showing Red over Green Medium Clear. That is an accident waiting to happen, You have just gave an indication that a train on main 1 and main 2 can enter the crossover at the same time. One of those signals needs to be Red over Red (No Number Plate) or both Red over Red with a number plate for Rule 291? Stop and Proceed.
You are correct. I am currently working on the code to control this.
That's is a LOT of work to do what it was doing. As you said, it isn't done yet, but idk... I don't think I'd have the patience to do something so mindboggling without actually having a really worthwhile payoff.
Was this your code? I remember your video on using AI to work on code. Did you use AI for any of this? In a curiou fashion and not at all "omg AI is stealing" or something.
On all the wiring, I'm at least feeling proud of myself for wiring up an Athearn blue box switcher for DCC. I still need to add the speakers and lights, but still, it's a bit more than what I've done before, and it's fun to see an old loco come alive on DCC.
That wiring looks like spaghetti 🤣 but seriously good work.
Can I simplify this and use the same technique you demonstrated on a Kato #4 turnout?
Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
Holy.. That's darn fancy🚦🚦🚦🚦🚂🙋
U ever wanted a bachmann gg1 they're cheap and pull great
Great project!
very cool!
good work thanks lee
Shouldn't one of the other routes go to red when the crossover is switched? I mean you'd never have two routes cleared to the same crossover at the same time.
Yes you are correct. It's part of the code that I need to update. I actually have now and it works where when it goes to diverging, all the signals go red and a second button lets you select which signal is green.
My brain just swelled by 50%
Well, the MEGA is a slight overkill, in my opinion. It has enormous program memory for this task.. I get it, it's easier with that many I/O lines...
However, if you use an Uno or Nano, with a PCA9685 servo board, you can spare $$$ here, I think. It's a PWM LED driver originally. Programming shouldn't be much harder. I get it that it has "only" 16 outputs, but in this close proximity driving the red and green together should be yellow, and the yellow wires from the signals can be dropped, and you have only 16 LEDs to drive this way. With the PWM duty cycle you can tune the yellow color. Probably a bit more fidgeting, than anticipated, but might still worth the time. If you still want to drive the yellow LEDs, another servo board would do the trick, on the exact same two pins, only its address must be modified.
Nice work though, I really enjoy your videos.
Bravo!
Can you wire this up for us not so techy people.
Lefty?
I’d be really interested in helping you code some of this out. I’m an experienced programmer with a good deal of Arduino experience. Let me know if you’d be interested in my help 😊
7:47 one hopper is fallen over
Wow!!
Nice job.
Complicated.
…for people who think the computer system of a 2024 S-Class Mercedes Benz is too primitive…
If you stuck me in a jail cell with my freedom being dependent on successfully completing this project, I can guarantee that I would die in prison.
Sorry Jimmy but this project is not for everyone. Maybe I’m just that crabby old guy in the room, but all of these electronics projects in model railroading these days just leave me thinking that I shouldn’t have to graduate from MIT to enjoy the hobby.
Now where are those Atlas block control switches I’ve been meaning to install… saw them here just the other day…
Hello
“Ardunio”?????
hi
Very cool.