*I absolutely love this tool!!! The first one was defective and Dewalt replaced **MyBest.Tools** More bulky than the Bosch and Makita corded palm routers I have but worth it. Nice solid base*
This is a great video. As I’m starting to do more Pattern Routing I’ve been watching a lot of videos. Even though this was 6 years ago, it’s still relevant. I prefer to rout with a handheld router rather than the router table. Especially when I’m doing curved handles on hardwood. I feel like I have more control and feels safer to me. Thank you for this video. Super helpful.
dang... !! I watched this video last year and came back to it again today because I'm bit-shopping. I find I took away so much more. What a genuinely well made presentation. Thank you so much! Very informative.
Great video! Some questions: 1. On a router table, does it make sense to use a bottom mount bearing so that you can route with your pattern on top? 2. I'm trying to come up with a rule-of-thumb to know when I should climb cut. Does it make sense to 'always route downhill'? 3. What kind of stock do you use for patterns? Is that just 1/4" ply? 4. What's your preferred way of making patterns? Do you draw the patterns, print them from the internet, photocopy them from furniture books? And then bandsaw them out on plywood? Thanks for the quality content.
Conor- Good questions. Disclaimer: Although I enjoy and agree with the content of this video, I am not aquainted with Glen Huey or Popular Woodworking, in any way. 1. It doesn't matter, unless your particular pattern or workpiece would appear to you to bennefit from one way over the other. Keep this in mind though: If your template is on the bottom you'll have the added danger of the cutter being exposed at the top of your workpiece, and you need to be very carefull therefore, as to where you place your hands while guiding your work. 2. Climb cut when there's a greater chance (or a likelyhood) of tearout. Typically when cutting "across" end grain or over wild or interlocking grain. The router can be somewhat more difficult to control during climbcut because the direction of router movement is the same as the direction of bit rotation, therefore the router wants to "run away". To counter this one needs to hold it extra firmly against the work. 3. He's using (what appears to me) to be 1/2" baltic birch ply. Baltic birch is one of my favorite pattern woods also, because it dense, with no edge holes or defects (notice the thin, tight, multi layers), and durable, holding its edge nicely over long term repeated use. Any plywood that has a nice flat smooth face and an edge with no defects is sufficient. Some woodworkers use MDF, because its abundant and economical. Even plexiglass makes a good pattern, but its expensive and more difficult to machine. 4. When it comes to making patterns, you do whatever is easiest for you. There is no "preferred way". I don't think I've ever downloaded or printed from the internet, but noting wrong with that if you have the ways and means, and find what you want. Same with photocopying, I never have, but if thats practical for you, just do it. I usually design my own patterns, for chair parts or table legs, for example. Sometimes I'll be copying an existing design. When doing that, if possible I'll trace the existing part (or parts) onto rigid thin cardboard, thin plywood or MDF 1/8" or 1/4", or even just paper where applicable. On occassion I've had to trace the parts of a chair or table in its fully assembled, in use condition. We do what we have to. Sometimes the pattern design needs to be built in a process. For example it might first be scetched on paper, then transfered to plywood, then cut out and refined.
Nice video. I am more comfortable using pattern bits in my router table. I have a couple of dual bearing bits so that I can adapt to different grain patterns. I can change the direction of the cut by flipping the workpiece/pattern and adjusting the bit height.
Nice video and tips - thank you. My only complaint would be that it is in low-resolution video. In these days of even phone cameras being able to generate high definition video, it would have looked much better in HD, especially when put into full screen mode.
Actually, those are masters. It's technical. Been making them for years, but use 2 layers of 1/2" plywood glued together, and tack them down to the piece being routed out. Write anything, and everything, on the master, not only will this tell you what it is later, it will keep you from using it in your project, then having to make another. I only use 1/2" flush trim bits for what I make.
Bearing-guided router bits are available from most woodworking retailers. Search for pattern router bits. Beyond diameter and bearing location, you'll also find cutting length to be important when deciding what to buy. Let us know if you've got more questions!
*I absolutely love this tool!!! The first one was defective and Dewalt replaced **MyBest.Tools** More bulky than the Bosch and Makita corded palm routers I have but worth it. Nice solid base*
This is a great video. As I’m starting to do more Pattern Routing I’ve been watching a lot of videos. Even though this was 6 years ago, it’s still relevant. I prefer to rout with a handheld router rather than the router table. Especially when I’m doing curved handles on hardwood. I feel like I have more control and feels safer to me. Thank you for this video. Super helpful.
Awesome explanation to someone new to routing. Grazie 🇮🇹🇨🇦
dang... !! I watched this video last year and came back to it again today because I'm bit-shopping. I find I took away so much more. What a genuinely well made presentation. Thank you so much! Very informative.
Brilliantly addressed! I now need a band saw because I was hauling 1/2 Baltic birch and was frustrated with consistency.
Terrific video on this subject!
Thank you Glen great video
...thank You very much !!! kinde regards from Switzerland !!!
I've been looking for this exact information, thank you
Thank you for this information. Great job in explaining and demonstrating. I'm a subscriber!
Great video! Some questions:
1. On a router table, does it make sense to use a bottom mount bearing so that you can route with your pattern on top?
2. I'm trying to come up with a rule-of-thumb to know when I should climb cut. Does it make sense to 'always route downhill'?
3. What kind of stock do you use for patterns? Is that just 1/4" ply?
4. What's your preferred way of making patterns? Do you draw the patterns, print them from the internet, photocopy them from furniture books? And then bandsaw them out on plywood?
Thanks for the quality content.
Conor- Good questions.
Disclaimer: Although I enjoy and agree with the content of this video, I am not aquainted with Glen Huey or Popular Woodworking, in any way.
1. It doesn't matter, unless your particular pattern or workpiece would appear to you to bennefit from one way over the other. Keep this in mind though: If your template is on the bottom you'll have the added danger of the cutter being exposed at the top of your workpiece, and you need to be very carefull therefore, as to where you place your hands while guiding your work.
2. Climb cut when there's a greater chance (or a likelyhood) of tearout. Typically when cutting "across" end grain or over wild or interlocking grain. The router can be somewhat more difficult to control during climbcut because the direction of router movement is the same as the direction of bit rotation, therefore the router wants to "run away". To counter this one needs to hold it extra firmly against the work.
3. He's using (what appears to me) to be 1/2" baltic birch ply. Baltic birch is one of my favorite pattern woods also, because it dense, with no edge holes or defects (notice the thin, tight, multi layers), and durable, holding its edge nicely over long term repeated use. Any plywood that has a nice flat smooth face and an edge with no defects is sufficient. Some woodworkers use MDF, because its abundant and economical. Even plexiglass makes a good pattern, but its expensive and more difficult to machine.
4. When it comes to making patterns, you do whatever is easiest for you. There is no "preferred way". I don't think I've ever downloaded or printed from the internet, but noting wrong with that if you have the ways and means, and find what you want. Same with photocopying, I never have, but if thats practical for you, just do it. I usually design my own patterns, for chair parts or table legs, for example. Sometimes I'll be copying an existing design. When doing that, if possible I'll trace the existing part (or parts) onto rigid thin cardboard, thin plywood or MDF 1/8" or 1/4", or even just paper where applicable. On occassion I've had to trace the parts of a chair or table in its fully assembled, in use condition. We do what we have to. Sometimes the pattern design needs to be built in a process. For example it might first be scetched on paper, then transfered to plywood, then cut out and refined.
Nice video. I am more comfortable using pattern bits in my router table. I have a couple of dual bearing bits so that I can adapt to different grain patterns. I can change the direction of the cut by flipping the workpiece/pattern and adjusting the bit height.
Dude. Soo Intelligent! Very Nice!
I'm just getting into this. This seems like very good info. Thank you.
Thank you
Excellent video. What size is your thinnest top bearing router bit? And where can you get it? Thanks
I am looking for a wood with edge pattern carved like this.. are these sold anywhere? what should I be searching for
Nice video and tips - thank you. My only complaint would be that it is in low-resolution video. In these days of even phone cameras being able to generate high definition video, it would have looked much better in HD, especially when put into full screen mode.
Wow people will complain about anything
In making climb cuts, can you say which is generally the safer, freehand or router table? Enjoy your videos.
Actually, those are masters. It's technical. Been making them for years, but use 2 layers of 1/2" plywood glued together, and tack them down to the piece being routed out. Write anything, and everything, on the master, not only will this tell you what it is later, it will keep you from using it in your project, then having to make another. I only use 1/2" flush trim bits for what I make.
Excellent
Thanks for sharing wondered how to make clean cut patterns for some time now. Where would I get the bits you used?
Bearing-guided router bits are available from most woodworking retailers. Search for pattern router bits. Beyond diameter and bearing location, you'll also find cutting length to be important when deciding what to buy. Let us know if you've got more questions!
Jake you should check out Glen’s website, 360 woodworking.
Thank you for this information 😊 ॐ
I have a bunch of peices I need to cut according to a pattern, do I have to rough every piece out or can I just cut on both sides?
So I don't need to get bushings? just use top bearing bits to make my patterns?
How do you make the nice engravings should be your next video
What's the point of showing a guide on an already cut piece of wood? A better example would be showing the process from the start.
This is flush trim, not pattern routing.
Mr. You talk a lot ... and less examples