Ascension one of the most beautiful peaks - Titov Peak!
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- The summit is located in the Maloalmatinskoe gorge. It closes the Gorelnik gorge. Height 3850 meters.
From Medeo, by taxi, we went up to Shymbulak, and from there, we slowly and sadly stomped upward. At 8.00 am. Quite cool and a bit windy. From time to time, the thought came to me that it was nevertheless necessary to dress warmer. But as soon as the pace is quickened, the heart beats faster, and the warmth spreads through the body in a wave.
We slowly got to Mynzhilki (3017 m). We settled down in the sun and began to replenish the energy losses. Some with bacon sandwiches, some with cheese and beets. I, hastily shoving a pie into myself, began to fly. After 15 minutes, we lazily moved on.
The sun began to heat up pretty much. I had to stop regularly and take off one thing or another. At some point, I regretted not taking a T-shirt and shorts with me. We climbed the Titov pass. Time 12.30. Simple calculations showed that it took quite a long time to reach the pass. we need to go faster, because you had to climb to the top, go down from it to the pass and dump down through the lakes and Gorelnik to Medeo.
Lucky, there was not much snow. We climbed onto the ridge pretty quickly. For the next hour, we climbed the ridge and the gendarmes. Most of it can be climbed directly, and some of it is better to get around. In general, we climbed to the top in an hour and a half. The views are gorgeous. Ten minutes of admiring, filming, and running down. Time is running out, and it's cool to stand. We went down to the pass in an hour. We ate, took a breath, and stomped down to the lakes.
The sun began to leave us. It got much colder, and recent thoughts about a T-shirt with shorts were perceived as a drug addict's delirium. I had to dress warmly and move faster. We went down to the Eagle's Nest at dusk. 15-20 minutes and crossed the river. It was finally dark. We took out flashlights and hurried to Medeo. It is worth noting that the path was very slippery in some places, and we regularly tried to fall on it. At the beginning of the seventh evening, under the stars' twinkling and the glow of the moon, they went to Medeo. We were tired but happy.
Recommendations for climbers.
- The route is long, so it is better to plan enough time to climb to the top and descend from it safely. Factors to consider fitness level, acclimatization, season, weather.
- If you don't have enough experience, use the services of a guide.
- If you are going to go down through Gorelnik, be sure to take kittens with you. The trail is very slippery.
- Be sure to carry a headlamp with you. It weighs little but can cost a life.
P.S. When we climbed to the top, we noticed that someone was following us. At the top, we were caught up by a young man named Nadir. He was alone. He saw that we were going to the top and followed us. He had never been on this route, and he had no special mountaineering skills.
So that's it. Never do that. You don't know how difficult the route is, and you don't know who passed in front of you. What if these people got lost? What if they are climbers, and they climb a challenging technical route with special equipment?
I strongly recommend that mountain lovers go through basic mountaineering training. It is an investment in your safety. It is much easier to do this today than it was ten years ago.
There are sports sections for mountaineering:
/ kazmountclub
/ taunamys
/ burevestnik_kaznu
/ alpineasiateam_gd
There are separate courses:
/ almatyalp
There is an alpine camp:
/ tuyuksu
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Вершинка с характером:) Такой рабочий, непростой маршрут.
Да, приходится попотеть)
На прошлой неделе там Ерман заблудился так и нашел тропу обратно
Я до самой вершины Амангельды с Каскелена бегал ( назад домой тоже бегом). Даже те кто бегает горные трейлы, почему-то крутили у виска пальцем.
Это парня я знаю. Я помню как он начинал в альпинизме. Имя забыл, а вот фамилию помню: Головко.
Смотрю после гибели человека
Здравствуйте сколько время надо до озера и пика Титова
Здравствуйте! Всё зависит от уровня вашей физической подготовки. Если вы хотите до озёр, то закладывайте 5 часов от Шымбулака. Если на вершину, то часов 7. Учтите, что вам еще потребуется время на спуск. Учитывайте также количество снега и погоду.
Для начала прогуляйтесь до перевала Титова, и вы уже будете примерно понимать сколько времени вам нужно, чтоб успеть сходить на вершину (+2, а то и 3 часа). К тому же вы получите акклиматизацию и вам будет проще идти в следующий раз.
Мчс нашли