Chassis bracing is certainly a good idea on any ute that's carrying a load whilst outback touring. Although, I think dual cabs are terrible with slide on campers in the rough stuff, no matter how good your suspension is, they ALL handle like crap. I used to have an extra cab Triton with a slightly less weight/size camper to you, chassis bracing and custom made springs and shock valving ect. The Triton was right on its gvm limit when fully loaded at 2.9t for a 18month trip, full tanks, food, gear and two of us. Even though it was loaded correctly it was still very bum heavy and wasn't great in the lumpy rough desert conditions. But, it served us really well, considering what we put it through, 75,000kms for the entire trip and we took it down every track no matter how difficult. The rear suspension got flogged hard and was always the thing I had to maintain the most. The only thing we broke was the left and right side main leafs during the trip and wore out a multiple sets of mains and shackle bushings. As good and comfortable these slide-on campers are, I'd never sit another one on a ute ever again. Single cab would be far better at balancing the load, but not enough room in the cab for comfort touring. Everything is a compromise and you make things work based on what you most want out of a touring setup. These days I prefer better off road capabilities and balanced, lighter weight vehicles. The compromise is less stuff and no more glamping in comfortable campers. 🤣
Great comment Steve, I agree with most of your arguments. A younger version of myself would definitely still be swagging it. My wife and I wouldn’t do the trips we do without the comfort these days.
A better way to stop the chassis bending is to have the chassis lenghened in front of the rear axle by enough to get the rear axle under the middle of the tray.
Very correct to say it’s not a silver bullet- don’t overload , stay with factory GVM, shift weight to over and forward the rear wheels, and on corrugation, drive SLOWLY,- it’s not the darka rally- even if it feels better because the suspension floats over bumps at higher speed- the square increases in force/load does not change
Great info, Wayne. I'm looking to raise my aluminium tray about 50mm so I can slip a 100 litre water tank between the chassis rails. I've got the plan in mind but I'm still considering my options. I want to keep my CoG as low as I can but I'm not sure if raising the tray to accommodate the tank will negate any CoG gains after I load up the tray with all my gear (genset, toolbox, small welder, 50 litres of spare fuel etc).
@@CanopyCampingAustralia Good point. I'll check it out. It's a weird Courier. It was built in SA for export to Oz. In 2005, South Africa didn't have Catalytic convertor laws in place, so when this one was imported new, the exhaust pipes were cut and the cats were slotted in and sealed with cable clamps. I'll make a short video tomorrow showing how they're fitted and throw it up on my channel.
Disagree with that. The reason a Ute bends is due to load or crap driving. The air bags have a range from 15 to 50 psi and set correctly for the load will only assist not cause bending
I’m very keen to buy a Tommy camper my only issue is bending the chassis. Because the back of the camper has to be at the rear of the tray I worry it’s a design problem that will inevitably will bend the chassis. Would love to hear your opinion, am I worried about nothing ?
Interesting! When did you get the chassis plates installed? I recently asked you about your chassis with the load whist crossing the Simpson. I noticed the flexing….What made you head to Superior Engineering? I have a Dmax with Pedders GVM upgrade and a Norweld tray and compact canopy. I’m well under weight and well distributed, but always considerate of the risk.
Better safe than sorry! Very well done modification. My D-Max delivery is now pushed back by a month….. late December. May I ask what fuel economy you get on highway speeds on the bitumen? I think you mentioned 17 or 18 per 100 slow driving through the Simpson. Can’t find that bit any more. That the highest consumption and highway should be the lowest, right?
I think the 12.5 /16.5 is already superb! Your setup seems to be the on the ideal spot point between being under-prepared and over done. Goldilocks…Very well thought out. Will follow in your footsteps! But not with a Tommy, but with something I will build myself, not in any way talking down the Tommy, just looking forward to the fun of building it myself…. Once you have done the tune, please post a video!!!
Cons, it’s not fool proof. Won’t stop the chassis bending if the loads bad or you drive badly. Pros, it’s 5 mm plate stronger in the area that’s prone to bending.
Why don,t just buy a landcruiser or any patrol that has a super strong chassis and live axels,, tnese ifs 4wd,s are not designed for heavy canopys ,what ever mods you do to the so called chassis will not stop them from bending ,they are not just designed for the weight people are putting on them ,have a GQ with is worlds ahead of any ifs wanna be 4x4 theres no chance of my 4x4 bending and is much cheaper than any ifs wanna be.
ifs wanna be? they are 4x4 mate. You take anything past its design spec it will break even the mighty YQ or 200 series. I've driven better through stuff in a 20 yr old outback than most people can drive a "real" 4x4. If you treat the car with respect and know how to drive you will be alright 99% of the time.
Chassis bracing is certainly a good idea on any ute that's carrying a load whilst outback touring. Although, I think dual cabs are terrible with slide on campers in the rough stuff, no matter how good your suspension is, they ALL handle like crap.
I used to have an extra cab Triton with a slightly less weight/size camper to you, chassis bracing and custom made springs and shock valving ect. The Triton was right on its gvm limit when fully loaded at 2.9t for a 18month trip, full tanks, food, gear and two of us.
Even though it was loaded correctly it was still very bum heavy and wasn't great in the lumpy rough desert conditions. But, it served us really well, considering what we put it through, 75,000kms for the entire trip and we took it down every track no matter how difficult. The rear suspension got flogged hard and was always the thing I had to maintain the most. The only thing we broke was the left and right side main leafs during the trip and wore out a multiple sets of mains and shackle bushings.
As good and comfortable these slide-on campers are, I'd never sit another one on a ute ever again. Single cab would be far better at balancing the load, but not enough room in the cab for comfort touring.
Everything is a compromise and you make things work based on what you most want out of a touring setup. These days I prefer better off road capabilities and balanced, lighter weight vehicles. The compromise is less stuff and no more glamping in comfortable campers. 🤣
Great comment Steve, I agree with most of your arguments. A younger version of myself would definitely still be swagging it. My wife and I wouldn’t do the trips we do without the comfort these days.
Definitely something a lot of people don’t know about. Keep up the good work, love the vids
Thanks Jordan
Always good to see constructive ways to fixing these sorts of problems. Onya Wayne!!
Thanks Stig.
Just received our plates for the Colly, couple of good tips here, thanks Wayne.👍
A better way to stop the chassis bending is to have the chassis lenghened in front of the rear axle by enough to get the rear axle under the middle of the tray.
Agree. Can’t afford that.
Lovely work
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Very correct to say it’s not a silver bullet- don’t overload , stay with factory GVM, shift weight to over and forward the rear wheels, and on corrugation, drive SLOWLY,- it’s not the darka rally- even if it feels better because the suspension floats over bumps at higher speed- the square increases in force/load does not change
Agree completely.
Good one
Thanks
Get the right equipment for the job , there is already a vehicle out there for every conceivable application, no need to reinvent the wheel !
Slightly different prices Alan. Didn’t have the $ for a 79 type vehicle.
Great info, Wayne. I'm looking to raise my aluminium tray about 50mm so I can slip a 100 litre water tank between the chassis rails. I've got the plan in mind but I'm still considering my options. I want to keep my CoG as low as I can but I'm not sure if raising the tray to accommodate the tank will negate any CoG gains after I load up the tray with all my gear (genset, toolbox, small welder, 50 litres of spare fuel etc).
Wouldn’t imagine the COG would be to badly effected. Just be aware that the raising the tray may fall outside ADS. Should check it yourself.
@@CanopyCampingAustralia Good point. I'll check it out. It's a weird Courier. It was built in SA for export to Oz. In 2005, South Africa didn't have Catalytic convertor laws in place, so when this one was imported new, the exhaust pipes were cut and the cats were slotted in and sealed with cable clamps. I'll make a short video tomorrow showing how they're fitted and throw it up on my channel.
G'day mate I got a dual cab I've read alot about Air bag are not good for leaf spring ute as that's where they tend to bend or snap.
Disagree with that. The reason a Ute bends is due to load or crap driving. The air bags have a range from 15 to 50 psi and set correctly for the load will only assist not cause bending
I’m very keen to buy a Tommy camper my only issue is bending the chassis.
Because the back of the camper has to be at the rear of the tray I worry it’s a design problem that will inevitably will bend the chassis. Would love to hear your opinion, am I worried about nothing ?
Would u say 4 jerry cans at the very back of the canopy is bad. It’s sounds like it. Maybe gotta change the set up. Th and a lot very helpful
Yep very heavy
Hey Mate How much weight do you carry roughly at the rear including tray,canopy and all the gear?
Just interested what was the total cost to get it installed
Supplied, installed and mod plate with certificate was about 1300.
Interesting! When did you get the chassis plates installed? I recently asked you about your chassis with the load whist crossing the Simpson. I noticed the flexing….What made you head to Superior Engineering? I have a Dmax with Pedders GVM upgrade and a Norweld tray and compact canopy. I’m well under weight and well distributed, but always considerate of the risk.
Was booked in 3 months ago and fitted last month.
Hi Wayne
How much extra weight does the reinforcement add?
Not very much. It’s a couple of plates. 5 kg maybe
Better safe than sorry! Very well done modification. My D-Max delivery is now pushed back by a month….. late December. May I ask what fuel economy you get on highway speeds on the bitumen? I think you mentioned 17 or 18 per 100 slow driving through the Simpson. Can’t find that bit any more. That the highest consumption and highway should be the lowest, right?
With camper on highway I get 12.5 LPH. Desert averaged 16.5 LPH.
About to get a Tow tune, should better the fuel economy by 2 LPH
I think the 12.5 /16.5 is already superb! Your setup seems to be the on the ideal spot point between being under-prepared and over done. Goldilocks…Very well thought out. Will follow in your footsteps! But not with a Tommy, but with something I will build myself, not in any way talking down the Tommy, just looking forward to the fun of building it myself….
Once you have done the tune, please post a video!!!
@@silkeandtorsten no issues with building one yourself. I just wish I was that handy.
@@CanopyCampingAustralia litres per hour?!
Nice job mate. What does this cost approx?
The plates are relatively cheap, a couple hundred bucks. The fitting along with mod plate and certificate take it over a grand.
Do you think this is less of a risk with single and extra cab utes with slide-ons, all else held equal?
Yes definitely.
What did they tell you about the pros and cons?
Cons, it’s not fool proof. Won’t stop the chassis bending if the loads bad or you drive badly. Pros, it’s 5 mm plate stronger in the area that’s prone to bending.
@@CanopyCampingAustralia thanks for the feedback.
@@Shawn2ndaccount most welcome
I would not run the welds down the chassis against the grain. Can create a crack area.
Why don,t just buy a landcruiser or any patrol that has a super strong chassis and live axels,, tnese ifs 4wd,s are not designed for heavy canopys ,what ever mods you do to the so called chassis will not stop them from bending ,they are not just designed for the weight people are putting on them ,have a GQ with is worlds ahead of any ifs wanna be 4x4 theres no chance of my 4x4 bending and is much cheaper than any ifs wanna be.
Good advice if $ were unlimited.
ifs wanna be? they are 4x4 mate. You take anything past its design spec it will break even the mighty YQ or 200 series. I've driven better through stuff in a 20 yr old outback than most people can drive a "real" 4x4. If you treat the car with respect and know how to drive you will be alright 99% of the time.
Keep those blinkers tight mate. Wouldn't want common sense getting in the way of your fantasy.
@@lindsaybrown5897 agree
I can show you plenty of photos of LCs and patrols with bent chassis. Don't kid yourself.