Reviewing How I Keep Warm in My Micro Cabin
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- We're addressing some of the questions and concerns from viewers in relation to our micro cabin's little wood-stove. We heard you loud and clear.
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On this channel I make weekly videos documenting the build of my rustic mountain rental cabins. When not on a build trip I make videos building and preparing for the trips as well property maintenance, firewood and my outdoor wood boiler.
email: buildlife7@gmail.com
Thanks for the plug Steve. The name calling hurt my feelings though.
You do seem a bit sensitive LOL!
Suck it up
Nice update. At least we can learn as we go.
Very true!
What a lovely little respite! You did a great job! ❤
Thankyou!
Great little cabin and awesome little stove . All you need
You got that right!
Thanks for the video. I use a toilet bowl brush to clean my pipes. Works great.
Great tip!
That explains why your toilets are always dirty. Haha
Good points on the pipe and the fire first to build the heat.
seems to work well.
Well done...
Thanks!
You already know this, some people don't. The more the pipe interior is scratched, the more quickly creosote will build up. Even using a regular metal stove/chimney brush. Best to use a synthetic bristle brush. Run a good hot fire once in awhile to help keep it a bit cleaner. And new to wood burning - remember - pipe is installed male end down. On regular size stove pipe - 3 sheet metal screws per section.
Be careful
Be safe
Thanks for the add!
That is small, nice looking cozy cabin :)
Thanks! It's just enough for me!
First thing I noticed was horizontal piece not tilted up enough! Very nice cabin!
Here is an idea, Get a "stove top heater". No power required. It is powered by heat. I have 2 that i use on my Buddy heaters. They work fantastic. Smaller fire, less wasted heat. It blows the rising heat out into the other areas of the cabin. Awesome device.
I love that you are trying. Most people just complain..QUESTION- I have a 14x20 cabin/shed and I can't get warm.. what size wood heat would you recommend? I use regular space heater and electric blanket but damn the bill and unstable grinds here are horrible. . I've also been thinking on the diesel heater but am skeptical -are they reallllyy worth it??
I have been playing around with diesel heaters. They put out a ton of heat!
Id be interested if you had a outside tee with a trap door outside if that would be easier to clean..
Wishing you the best love your set up..
for sure on a system that doesn't just pull apart like that but only for the parts after the T. You still have to take apart whats inside.
Keep up the great work on your wood stove at the cabin, I 'll always watch those videos.
Thanks, will do!
Great Job!!!!!i I learn some from you ,Thanks, like your video
Thanks for watching!
great little video, ienjoyed it.
Glad you enjoyed it
Need a smooth elbow, that ribbed bend really slows the air flow down. The damper needs to be on up the pipe. The stove needs a chance to draw the smoke up before being controlled. Like pumping water, ever restriction slows it down and makes back pressure. Good vid. Need to adjust the damper and draft so that just cracking the main door it will just pull a flame off a match toward the stove entrance. It's a balance of pressure. Then you have the barometric pressure outside. Clear days it's high, raises. cloudy. low it won't pull air is wet cold heavy, need to open damper more.
Nice fix! I too think ya need a little smoke smell so ya know it’s a true cabin🤣 Thanks for shouting out Jeremiah the 608 man! I may have sent him to ya🤣Take care Steve!
Thanks Todd! I believe you did!
The best draft is straight up through the roof, no 45’s at all.
I agree and that's from a 30 year roofer! In a real world setting I thing that is the best option hands down!
Great video hi from the west of Ireland 🇮🇪
Hello there!
If those changes don't fix the problem try adding sections of insulated stove pipe. This will keep the flue gases warmer so they don't condensate
That makes sense.
Stove is running great! Thanks for the shoutout Steve👍👍
You bet!
How long did you run that stove to build up that much cresote? Im putting together a similar setup using 45s and a capybara woodstove and wondering how often i will have to clean the pipes.
That was from just a couple burns but it was the poor draft that was causing all the build ups. for the way it heats up and runs now I bet once a season would be fine. Super easy to pop the elbows off and look thought.
Regarding the creosote build-up, restrict the wood to dry, seasoned firewood. Allow firewood to season, or dry out for at least six months (if you can), it helps it to burn completely and produce less smoke.
We usually burn oak because we have allot of it. That takes at least 18 months for my liking!
One of the issues with a woodstove is the air supply for combustion. The air supply for combustion usually comes from inside the structure that you're heating. That air that you've already heated goes up the chimney. Naturally it's replaced by cold air from the outdoors that comes in every crack and crevice that it can. Based on information that I have from stove manufacturer, whenever possible it should have an outside source of combustion air. As far as I'm concerned two things will happen, the first thing is you won't be using your warm air for combustion and will retain more heat in the structure and you will save on the amount of wood you burn. You can throttle the fire by controlling the amount of air the stove can get. I had an occasion to debate with a person who uses a tent in cold weather. he didn't realize that the opening flap at the bottom of the tent was designed to let outside air in with a short piece of pipe to supply the stove with fresh air and not take the air out of the tent that was heated. I had to refer him to the manufacture instructions by the tent company.
Allot of factors for sure!
You should look into the camp chef tent stove. It’s quite a bit larger and uses a 5” stove pipe. I use it in my tent and it’s an amazing stove for cheap too
Thanks for the tip!
I have one also. I do need to get the water tank for it though. Great little stove.
They make one for the camp chef?
@@buildlife what a water tank?
Awesome stove, Brand/model please? Just subscribed. I’m hooked.
Thank! this is the one. seems to have gone up in price a bit! amzn.to/4eFclE4
Take the damper out and turn it around. That should help keeping an eye on where it is sitting…open/closed or in between.
seems like that would help.
close the door damper down, about 75%, rt before opening, creates vacuum inside stove...will draw fresh air in door. When open.
Also, Wrap your chimney, about 12 inches below 1st elbow, to wall. that will help chimney warm faster, creating a draw.
Thanks for the tips!
I would be interested would you be able to change the 90 instead for a 45 instead that probably would help a lot
You certainly could. This kit only comes with 90's and much harder to make a thimble through the wall when the pipe is on a 45 degree angle.
Can you use 45 degree fittings to help with the draft instead of 90's?
yes you can but this tent stove kit comes with what you see.
in a cute little cabin like that, around here, i'd have a backup heat source if not 2.
little buddy heater for emergencies if i'm not spending lots of time at the cabin. diseal heater if i'm spending days there. just cuz i hate waking up and freezing getting otu of bed.
at least it's not a long walk to the stove!
@@buildlife yep, Locally you can buy a 10x16 prefab cabin, winterized (4 season) for about 18k. People often will put in a cast iron stove, then if adding solar, a diesel heater, if they aren't using solar, a buddy heater. Course that cast iron stove fully damped down it will easly burn 12 hours.
BUT as everyone round here knows... you always need a backup heat source... if something goes wrong, you get injured and can't cut wood or have to wait an etra long whiteout condition, polar vortex... having an extra heat system that will last you several days is a must.
Nice Job, Steve! Ha Ha
Wood stoves making for "heated" comments!
Douche nozzle😂! That is now my new favorite insult. Can't wait to use it! However, in hindsight, an actual douche nozzle gets more action than me😮💨
Something to consider. Maybe it was a compliment LOL!
A tee is better than a elbow on the outside for clean out
yeah for sure if you can't take them apart easy.
The damper handle on my woodstove doesn't stay in the position I want it, so I hung a weight on the handle. Sounds weird, but it worked...just take the weight off, adjust the damper, then replace the weight...
Whatever works!
❤❤❤❤
Actually Steve, the top of the flue is supposed to be 2 foot above the highest peak of the roof as an absolute
minimum. Another rule to stick by too is to burn your stove at a temperature of between 350-400 degrees also
being the minimum or otherwise you'll have end up with creosote also. A stove pipe/upper stove surface temp
gauge will help you monitor the temperature quite nicely They are the magnetic type so you may just have to
place it on the stove top very close to the stove pipe because of the pipe being stainless. With the stove temp.
gauge affixed to the stove pipe up just past the damper, oh say the next pipe section perhaps being clamped
on by a couple of those rather large dryer hose type stainless clamps just might do the trick! My wood box
woodstove heater, I absolutely had to burn my stove practically at 400 degrees because I was using some of
the green wood along with the dried wood.
I agree with most of this but I'd look into your first comment about the height. 2' above anything 10' away is code. Case in point my house would need the pipe to be about 30' above the roof to be 2' higher than my peak.
I had an assistant fire chief that inform me of the previous statement but then at the time I was a mobile home owner back in about 1980. In your instance, I see what you mean but to perhaps compensate for your setup, I believe that by running with a 2" larger diameter pipe and and a much more improved draft setup could be the solution and the 10' away code, although you could also anticipate more heat loss for the most part. On a multi level home with steep pitched roofs, I do see what you are getting at though. The home that I grew up in, the peak at the top was around 20 ft, yet it was a very old place built and then modified structure from anywheres between the late 1800's on into about the 1890's yet it had a large fireplace that was integral to the original build and the chimney was set at nearly 4 feet above the overall peak of the roof line.@@buildlife
I can actually see how the 10' away from an already existing structure could work such as that outdoor wood furnace and so that might be the rule in that case because it would rather be totally absurd to try and get a chimney or stove pipe of sorts to that elevation. So I suppose in time, the code would be modified so as to provide a work around that still meets a new criteria without breaking the bank. I do however like that type of work around and it has much merit without a doubt. Afterall just the expense of stove piped and additional components are astronomical in cost as it is and is getting even more worse! @@buildlife
Hello Steve, nice work🤘🏻🪵🇺🇸
Hey, thanks Larry!
LOL some people I tell yeah. Good video
People are very entertaining!
@@buildlife Yes... I love your input on that. Like I always say some can agree and some can not. But there are some others out there lol (AKA JUST ASS HOLES)
awesome channel lol
Thansk!
If you use two 45 degree angles and a small pipe between you will get better flow if that is better do the same outside two 45 degree angles and another very short pipe better flow and on top a spark arrestor so you do not lite uyourvown roof or forest !
I'd like to find a way to test the 2-45 vs 1-90 thing. I've heard this many times. In plumbing they say 2-45's are equal to 1-90. Not sure about smoke but seems like it would be the same. The piece on top is sold as a "spark arrestor" so should be good but who knows! Thanks for watching!
pre heat the pipe to get it to pull smoke up and out
Yesterday I took the plumbing torch and pointed it at the back of the fire box while I was lighting it and it took right off. working great now1
Try throwing an aluminum can in your fire once a week and see if that doesn't help with your creasel build up. I guess it turns into aluminum oxide. Or something like that and. Clean the The crystal out of the pipe
I'll do that in my next video and watch the internet have a melt down LOL!
With that draft open the stove should be roaring red hot.
I liked this ….
thanks!
I will tell you what I see that the creosote issue is. I am not an expert but this is my opinion.The creosote in your case is caused by cold smoke.Also too much stove pipe ,which cools the smoke.
Should go straight through the roof. EVERY bend is a BIG deal for drafting. Straight pipe is best, no doubt. AND, as an extra added bonus, it is cheaper, and it is easy to flash and shingle around. In the unlikely event you should decide to remove it, its not that hard to repair the penetration, but i would leave it as is, you will re-change your mind again once winter rolls back around. Just make sure to leave at least 1” clearance from around the pipe to any combustible material (like roof sheeting, ceiling material, etc.). Thats also dinky-ass pipe, are you sure specs dont say to upsize the pipe as you get further away from the stove, especially after TWO 90 degree bends?
What does this moonbat do in this tiny space all day??? How far a walk to the outhouse?
moonbat?
@@buildlife A demma-rat Obiden voter
Sheet metal over roof rafter asap.
Pipe is way to close .
Have a good one
It has metal drip edge and same clearance as where it goes though the wall. After a couple hours of burning you can almost put your hand on it. Meant to go through a canvas tent so I should be in good shape.
@@buildlife good deal brother I learned a lot.
Look into a diesel heater.there simpler then wood
Ha! Watch the latest video LOL! Come back and offer your input, we need pros!
Never heard that one before but I’m gonna steal it and use it right after this comment ! 😎 take care Steve
Thanks Tony!
Pipes should go over, not inside as you go up. But it may be just the way yours is designed.
The irony of Mr. Tea Drinker claiming superior civility whilst insulting a free to watch UA-cam content creator lol.
I appreciated the irony too LOL.
Very nice. You are NOT a douchenossle, LOL! Whoever wrote that comment probably is though.
Thanks LOL!
Most teas taste horrible! Fruit teas are nice though. =)
Not much of a tea guy but sounds good!
800 degree will blow your pipe, s apart to hot 🔥
Yep, the thermometer is off. I could have put my hand on it still!
Tea should be iced, coffee hot and consumed by a real man. Just sayin
You know as a fellow PH Stephen I couldn't agree more!
Hmmm, by lighting farts?
I`ve never thought building a fire inside a flammable building was a good idea
Pretty cold without it! Have to be careful for sure.