New Batts Are Suicide for Old Buildings - Spray Foam Insulate Instead - Why?
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Old drafty buildings cannot handle having new batts and vapor barrier installed in them. Why?
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Most builders get stuck "doing what they have always done". You explain the science so well. I am getting a quote today to convert my "vented 1978 attic " to ccspf space and remove all the old insulation sitting on the attic floor. Thank you for all your efforts and making these video. live in Chicago area
After thinking about using spray foam on a couple projects my family did. And then watching your videos for a couple years. It just dawned on me what might help the industry. Spray foam engineers that a not connected to an installation company.
You have so much knowledge of how to use spray foam correctly. But the common home owner can’t absorb all of that and then decide if spray foam can be used correctly in their situation.
I got 5 quotes from installation companies 4 said the project would be no problem. 1 said my existing attic had to many small areas to be accessed with proper PPE. I believed the last person and went with air sealing and rockwool.
My brother finished a basement in a 1920’s house. Researched spray foam but couldn’t understand how it would be safe to implement.
A spray foam engineer with your knowledge would solve both problems. I would not have had to talk to 5 people to find out it was a no. My brother could have trusted the engineers plan and he would have a spray foamed basement right now.
I would say it would go hand in hand with an hvac engineer since you are changing the airflow of the building.
Thanks for watching and learning.
What were the results of the rockwool insulation? Did you get water or mold?
@troycarpenter3675
I did a lot of changes at the same time so there is no water in my house currently that could cause mold.
Joe Lstiburek also has some articles on these things.
I rehabbed a house in New Jersey 15 years ago. 2 inches of closed cell foam everywhere from tiger foam kits. Then I went stud to stud with aluminum double bubble r19. Taped off everywhere. Walls and ceilings. EBoxes joints seams etc. I cut My HVAC Bill by 80%. and the House was so comfortable and quiet. I also left the attic Vented and cold. My Ex is still there. She's never had a problem. I've heard The Myths about foam and blah blah. Much Like the Climate Change silliness they never made any sense to me scientifically.
Correct. People like to sell fear.. = control
Im working on an addition onto an existing pole barn right now. The owner had the original structure spray foamed. First thing is they didnt tyvek before spraying and getting the metal sheets off was a pain. Then we found out that there was a window leak and it had rotted some of the framing and his closed cell foam is soaking wet. Because its a vapor barrier it wont let the wall dry out. We don t know how much because we cant remove the foam all that easily and its not in our contract do to anything about that. Spraying makes any future renovations an absolute pain in the ass
Before anybody says anything about us not fixing the rotten lumber, where it's at is not structural and in the contract the owner is doing all the interior work, and that wall is becoming interior space.
Do you normal bitch about minor issues at the end of your day? Is Dana White available to help?
@@SprayJones middle of the day too. We might end up having to come back on warranty time to investigate his other windows. As this building was built 15 years ago by our company. Which is fine with me. I get paid by the hour. But the customer is very upset, be runs a custom carpentry shop for furniture and trim work so he has been looking at everything we take off. I considered spray foam for some time but after seeing this, as well as your attitude about criticism against foam I definitely will never foam. Yes water got in the windows, but due to the foam it was unable to dry so it just rotted quickly. Rant over for now, gotta wipe.
Just interesting how the seams in the outside sheathing (horizontally) telegraph through the foam. I would have thought they would disappear. Thanks for another great video.
Make a video of you adding a window or door to a wall that has been foamed.
Great video
Ive got a roof deck and gable ends getting sprayed early next week with "light yellow" closed cell. I was hoping for that light blue
I *never* understand what people think when they install some kind of impermeable sheet for the purpose of being impermeable to vapor... And then expecting it to remain impermeable after poking 3 million holes
do a video or commentary on what you and your team use for masks and filtration.
The common people will be bored. Stick around because there are plans to greatly expand what we are doing and become an education source for sprayers.
I have a question that i think only you could answer i spray with a carlisle st1 gun now. Love it for the maintenance and the weight my hands thank me everyday. The only issue is you tend to get a weird hollwed pattern at times if i have a new tip it goes away and i get a nice round but after a few months back to hollow. Any suggestions?
You have worn the tip out. That is why new is fine and after a few months not.
Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it I didn't think It could be anything else. Well the tips are cheap so that's a plus
I don't understand how a 2x2 cm hole passes 30L moisture while 1x1 m drywall without vapor barrier passes only 1/3 L.
Air leakage vs diffusion through the barrier in the same amount of time.
Not sure if you have dealt with this before but have an old house built 49. No insulation in walls and current siding is still firm. Much of the inside is antique wood making blow in undesirable. Is it possible to add nailers onto current siding, spray foam and then put new siding on?
Yes, or remove the siding 1 wall at a time and add SPF.
@@SprayJones thanks for the reply.
This is the way.
Excellent. -- QUESTION -- Mike, so a 1940s brick house with lathe plaster walls.. I guess we would have to remove the plaster and that horizontal wood/lathe layer to expose the wall cavity and spray into it. Should be another layer of horizontal lathe wood on the exterior side of the 2x4 framing, or would we see the raw brick? If there is that exterior lath then the spray would go against that, if not then it would be on the brick itself or must that be kept free of spray foam?
I have an older video dedicated to discussing old brick homes and SPF. It is in the wall playlist all your questions are answered there.
On a wood frame shophouse with metal siding, should the framing get wraped with tyvek- or something B4 using close cell or open cell in missouri?
Watch the metal building playlist, where this question and many more are all answered with their own videos.
What you are saying is so OBVIOUS. I'm a believer based on common sense and science,
That works best in most cases.
To the majority of people, even builders, it is not obvious. Keep the education coming Jones.
Hi, thanks for another great video. I have a question regarding an old house in Northern Sweden where my dad grew up. It is built 1937 and on the upper floor the layer just above the ceiling is a 120 mm thick layer of wood cutter ships. This is a really bad insulator and I would prefer to get help to spray the inside of the outer roof and get it both air tight and insulated at the same time, so the whole attic is insulated. But do you think it can be bad to create that area between the outer spray insulation and the current ceiling insulation with regards to moist and other problems that might arise on the attic? I think that around 3 inches of closed cell foam would make magic for the electrical bill, but I'm not sure if the house will be as happy afterwards?
There will be no issues if you can have the closed cell SPF applied to the deck and into the corners. All depends on getting it sealed to the roof line and onto the tops of the walls. The wood chips will need to be moved back from the edges to accommodate this.
Once achieved the wood chips are nothing more than a sound inhibitor.
@@SprayJones Thank you so much for this information, the wood ships that is filled in the walls have compressed some, so there is a 2-3 inch from top of wall down to the wood ships, so it sounds like it will be perfect to spray the top part of walls seen from the attic and just continue up through the inside of the roof as a big continous layer?
I have a question. Thinking of doing this to my 1919 house in Boston. Question is every stud bay has gypsum concrete in it . The gypsum concrete is centered on the 2x4 so I could spray 2 inches of spray foam on it and it would have a 1 1/2 gap from outside wall to the Gypsum. Is it ok to leave it and spray over it or take all the gypsum out ? Thank you
Remove the gypsum. Get adhered with no gap for moisture to sit in.
@@SprayJones ok. Thank you for your advice. We did a test wall with spray foam over the gypsum concrete would you remove the 8 foot section or leave it ? I will remove all of the gypsum when the time comes to do the house . Again thank you for the correct info
What about open cell with Certainteed membrane breathable poly?
No. Need a custom liquid fit.
@@SprayJones I can understand on rooflines but what about on exterior walls?
aGAIN great information AND LOVE THE CHANNEL.
Awesome, thank you!