Leaving those bearings open so chips get into them is a bad idea. You need some oil seals on them. Chips, dust, dirt etc can get in there in NO Time. I have a question. Why did you use a solid shaft instead of a hollow shaft you could pass through for longer items? You can probably reduce your run out on that chuck by turning the mounting surface behind it again. You turned it then took it apart to make your adapter, put it back together without checking that surface again. Also you can take the chuck off, rotate it to the next set of mounting holes and try it again. That tiny amount can make it better or worse but you won't know until you try it. I highly recommend some sort of oil seal to keep debris out of the bearings and to keep the grease in them. I would have liked to see you test the run out of that metal piece you turned. It looked very good. Also you can grab that piece once turned and wiggle it up and down and side to side to see what kind of wobble you have in the bearings with the dial indicate on it. I really like this home made lathe. I wish I had one :-) Keep up the great work. Cheers !
If you want to cut the vibrations down, pour a concrete base to bolt the lathe to. Filling the voids in the headstock with concrete will help a lot too. And definitely add oilers to the bearings.
One to create another even better. That is how we have soooo many fine things to work with now. Well done fella. You must remember that only one bearing is needed to hold a shaft. All in all a great build fella ! Regular greasing is a must as well to pressure the stuff out of the chuck. Steel for tat tail end hub will give you less grief in the long run as well. Indicate the chuck alignment plate. That is most likely where your runout is but at the same time, a 10 $ chuck is not a 700 $ unit. Always tighten at least 2 chuck screws too. That will help a lot and NEVER run a dry bearing bud. LOL, time will get ya all dialed in fella. Great build ! Yer noggin is doing great fella !
Dude, as an ASE Master since 78, I have wanted a metal lathe for sometime now. You have a nice sweet setup. For those tapered wheel bearings, I would suggest a plate with an O-ring around the housing. I know you used the rear drive plate to preload the inner bearing race, as a huge nut, locked in place would be almost impossible. But without a center grease seal, those tapered bearings are going to collect more metal shavings, dirt, dust and anything else in the shop. A flat thin plate with an O-ring groove in it to help seal the back of the chuck. A brake lathe has a convoluted rubber boot over the main shaft. I will be the first to admit, these will be design challenges but needed. But build yourself or pay 45k for a nice used one. Only one who would give a thumbs down should be told that. It has been said; It ain’t yours unless you build it. I would never be able to get as far as your lathe is now, but I just want to say, excellent job in your work. I wish a salvage yard would be as generous as yours is. Liked & subscribed!
Good job. Yeah. Other than the bearings not being lubricated I still give you an A plus. You made something i would have never attempted to do myself. Smart kid. Love your builds man. Keep up the great work. Im a new fan of your channel & seen the entire lathe build. Love it. To take some scrap steel & turn it into a useable tool worth a lot of money to buy even a used 1 is awesome. I generally build stuff i need for tools, just nothing as complicated as a lathe. I never imagined of building one either but you gave me motivation to maybe build 1 myself. Especially after seeing how much better you made it every time you did an important to it. And seeing how exactly you made some of the parts. I used 1 as a kid in school and loved making things with it. Maybe when I get my new shop setup i will try to build 1 myself. You get a pat on the back from me. Keep up the good work & awesome builds. Cheers for your future as a true machinist
Always take apart new Chinese made chucks and clean before use. They are normally full of casting grit and junk. Grease those new bearings! They'll burn up in no time with no lube.
You'll kill those bearings in no time running them dry. They're meant to be packed with grease. Grease seals on both sides would be advisable to keep the grease from being flung out and to keep chips out of the bearings. To vary the spindle speed, stepped drive pulleys are the simple way. Variable speed is nice but you can usually get close enough to the ideal surface cutting speed with a pair of stepped pulleys.
wouldnt sealed roller bearings be a better alternative. of course the tapered bearing can take out the slack as well as being cheap but definitely the idea of them not sustaining sufficient lubrication seems pretty legitimate.@@mrgreenswelding2853
Awesome lathe.You hit the nail on the head when you took the head apart.People use air to clear the teeth and it blows the chips Into the back of the chuck.Eventually it won't clamp down right.(I used to operate CNC lathes and grinders with pneumatic chucks.They'd get filled with chips and Not clamp tight,or true)Higher speed with slower feed equals less squeal.
The lathe looks awesome! This is the first video I've seen of it(new subsciber). I hate to reiterate what everyone else said but I agree, those bearings need grease. They may not get as much wear as they would inside an axle but they will get worn out pretty fast. I'm not sure how an oiler system works but maybe drilling the bearing housing so you could use a Zirc fitting or something.
RBW bubby i'm proud of you for doing this for yourself im sure you will improve it in time but you have to start somewhere and you got a big jump on this when you built it. glad to know of you.
Need to find a way to pack Grease in your bearings. auto bearings need it. See if you can find some grease seals for them. It would be sad having to take it back apart in a short time to replace them. Great job and videos. keep them coming.
Great job... The 2nd lathe I'm building will use concrete for the frame, I have a 3hp treadmill motor, I figured out the speed controller and it is quite simple, it seems to have quite a bit of torque at lower speeds, might add a 2nd pulley to gear it down, I am going to also put a treadmill motor on my small craftsman lathe to test out the tread mill motor, I get these treadmills free off of Craigslist, got about 5. I like your bearing setup, I never thought of it, I was worried about preload on my setup I thought about using a crush sleeve, for my oiling system, I am going to install a controllable drip system. The feed system I thought about using a stepper motor and control it with an aduino, don't know if it will be strong enough or fast enough. I'm playing around with adding an encoder to a lawn mower starter motor, of course I have to cast a housing. Looking at my craftsman lathe all the feed and speed for thread cutting is done thru gears even the reverse. I did print a 3d gear for my small lathe it's going on 3 years, don't know how it would hold up on a big lathe, may I can print the gear then cast it. All work in process, good luck and can't wait for the next video.
Dude! This is awesome. Gearing: Grab a 5 speed manual transmission from the junk yard, and a 2 or 3 belt pulleys to increase your number of speeds. 2 belt speeds will give you 10 speeds. I would go for it, and do a 3 step belt pulley for 15 speeds. Put the pulley stack between the bearings. Now put a pulley stack on the end (5 steps) and attach it to the saddle screw. With the right combo you will have auto feed.
Oh Hell Yea!! Good work man! I like this series, you have an engineering mind. I agree and liked other's comments about those bearings needing lubrication AND seals to keep grease in and keep grime/dirt out. You're two speed transmission for go-karts, or a version of that design might work with changing speeds on your lathe.....just a thought. Keep up the cool ideas, I'm a long time fan from your beginning.
Now that you made your leis you continue to improve it better and better and better and getting the tolerances closer and closer you can tell by when you did the aluminum when you were cutting it it's shiny now instead of dull you're doing a great job
Dude you're doing way better because it was five or six thousand out before and now you got it down to one one and a half that's great as you keep working on it you're going to get it better and better every time look at that you started Major Lazer and you using all the tools that you made to make it better to constantly improve it great job totally awesome
I'm finishing up a homemade milling machine and have started getting the parts together for my own lathe build. You did an excellent job here, fuck what anyone else says. It's impressive as hell.
Well, as I saw your first video my thoughts were "That ain't gonna work even close to a lathe.." But you officially stunned me. This project turns out to get better and better ;)
my factory lathe has the same runout on the external chuck.. No worries, you need to dial a precision ground rod in the chuck to see the real runout anyway.. looks damn good to me
Nice upgrade! I would try some cutting oil. Even with carbide. It sounds and cuts a lot nicer on my lathe when I use cutting fluid. Also I would put some oil on the bed of the lathe, it looks dry. Manual on my old lathe is very particular about lubrication, so I always keep everything nice and oiled
Been watching your work for a while now,had to leave a comment..your know nonsense approach to all your builds,is inspiring,and the quality awesome..the CBR600 build your doing now 2019,I'm really looking forward to seeing on the road..would be great if you started a business doing what you do..the possibilities are endless,..anyway, Respect.🙂👍🇬🇧
Rheostat's a dimmer switch which is old school and suck. You are right about not having the torque using one, would just bog down the motor under load if you don't fry it first because they run hot. Now a days equipment uses a digital signal, meaning the full power is pulsed to get the speed. In other words, the full speed would be no pulses in 2 seconds, as half speed would be 2 pulses of full power a half second apart in 2 seconds, to control speed for a motor. You get the torque from the full power pulses. Those old bearings are still mint. The lathe at my job has at least twice the run out on the chuck and I use it for some precise work still. You get it to work right when you got a cheapskate boss, LOL.As for that chuck of yours, that ain't nothing compared to what I dug out of the one at my job, LOL. You would freak out real bad if you seen it, LOL. Awesome vid but figure out a way to grease those shaft bearings. They won't last.
Awesome build,a consideration you could make is to dowel your bearing housings rather than to allow only on the bearing bolts not coming loose while turning. Fantastic effort you have made for sure.
Been following the series and man... hats of to you! Superb motivation for the project :) Congrats. Word of advice only: beware with the very week support (only one screw) on the cutting iron at 5:55 minute. It may fly away towards you. On the side of that: congrats for the example you represent for most of us!
Looking at the construction through the series i would now guess that some of the chatter is coming from the slides on the carriage not being tight enough. If it is possible, simple filling and shimming on the edge of the main carriage plate to move the sides in as close as possible to base would help with chatter and accuracy a lot. For a speed control an idea would be to use something like a quad or dirt bike gearbox from a blown engine for a gear drive speed control, after removing the cylinder head and piston, replace the flywheel with a pulley for a motor and then a simple sprocket and chain drive to the lathe spindle would easily handle the power. Being a machinist myself has made it relay interesting to watch the construction of this with limited tools.
I would like to see you install some sort of seals on those taper bearings so chips can't get in them. You saw that there were chips inside the chuck so you can imagine them getting in the bearings and thrashing them. You did an awesome build and I like how you did it with scrap iron from a junk yard.
I know this is old as hell but you can buy a small 4speed 110cc atv engine, then gut the top end. Remove the crank and make a straight shaft with a pully or gear on it then hook your motor through that into the lathe. You would have a 4 speed gearbox with reverse. Was the best gearbox idea i was able to come up with.
1. Pack those wheel bearings with grease. 2. Install a flange to cover the bearings and keep chips out of them. 3. Use a drift to wedge the spindle hub against the bearing races. Those aluminum threads aren’t going to last long! AND PLEASE GREASE THOSE NEW BEARINGS IF YOU DONT DO ANYTHING ELSE!
Привет Американский брат! Пишу тебе из далёкой России, я здесь тоже занимаюсь станкостроением:) вроде что-то тоже получается. Хочу тебе пожелать успехов в этом деле, большое спасибо за полезное видео!!!
I have seen this done with car steering shaft installs. Get the hub where it needs to be then use a drill bit or something that will fit through the set screw holes and put marks on the shaft that you can drill dimples approx 1/4 inch into the shaft so that way the set screws have something to grab onto. Hope this idea helps and this is a great build.
Cast iron is used in machine beds because it is strong, and doesn't have the thermal expansion of steel. It doesn't bend or warp much, and dissipates the vibrations, not because of the ping it makes. Not sure who said that, but it was worth a good laugh... Nice machine BTW, need to protect the head stock and the cross slides. The chatter is coming from the bed, it isn't ground even. A millimess will show you that it's not straight probably to 0.1mm.
Use a power window motor & gear box from a car, forward n reverse all ready set up. That will get direction changes, maybe adding a DC potentiometer might get your speed for driving the "carriage " . Build or buy a four step pulley system, like a inch steps for both the motor n head stock. Multiple speeds there. Example 1725 motor speed 3-8 646 spindle 3-6 862.5 4-5 1380 5-4 2156. Changing the belt fast n easy. Build your steps as you desire , maybe a 2-12 for 287.5 rpm . As a boy we made a wood lathe with a 2" to a three step on a separate shaft to three step on the lath it self. Yes was a bit of work , the center block that held the second shaft was movable quick easy adjustments. Gave us many speeds.
since you turned your own spindle anyway, if you ever upgrade again you might try leaving the middle of the spindle a larger diameter than the ID of the bearings. then you can get them as tight as you want by tightening those diamond shaped peices of plate that hold the bearing races. your build has been great.
Tool stick out is a big problem. You want as much of the tool in the tool post as you can. That 2-3 inches of stick out is singing like a tuning fork. Try different inserts also. that can also make a difference. Great series and good luck.
If you drilled small detents in the shaft where the hub screws contact it, then you wouldn't have to tighten down the screws on the hub so much since they would now have divots to catch on in the shaft/spindle/Arbor (whatever we're referring to it as). That way you could tighten down the rest of the hub screws for clamping down the bearing assembly and not have to worry about the hub sliding out of place or being cranked down too tightly... hopefully that explanation makes sense... awesome video and great job on the lathe in general btw! Impressive
You can do with out bearings to get a precise result, just make a hole at the top to put oil and a small diagonal grove on the spindle to distribute the oil, but not right through .
While there are many things I would do different, I never made a spindle and you have. So kudos to you :) Are your bearing adjustment screws pushing directly against the bearing race? If so I would add an extra ring to spread the load. If you have a torque wrench, use it to get the same load on all bearing adjustment screws. And maybe locktide those screws inplace.
A lot of people are mentioning how those bearings need grease, and that's true, but they also need axial preload, that is, they need to be tightened down along the axis to ensure the rollers fully engage in the taper of the race.
Okay...... 1. Indicater gages aren't meant to be used with the machine running. That's a guaranteed way to destroy them. 2. Great job on the lathe. 3. while you were rotating your chuck by hand, I could see that your indicater holder was deflecting every time. So, you may have even less run-out than you initially think. Try a better more sturdy stand when you can get one and I think you might be pleased with the results.
You could use a variomatic instead of gears. The discs are supercheap, like 15 bucks, and this would also give you more torque at lower speed... Or you could turn them yourself.
It is more than a good enough for a homemade lathe! I bet I could use it on professional purposes in cases where high precision is not needed! Looks solid enough! Great work! By the way if you combine steel and concrete (with some additives) in moulds you could get a less vibrating construction but I guess it will take some inventional thinking.
Nice to see you tweeking this project to this point. I think I saw your bearings with grease packed in them. I'm pretty sure you are not that naive. please make something to either cover them, or drill in a grease passage and install a Zerk fitting in the bearing retainers to allow regular greasing of the bearing assemblies. Your aluminum problem had me wondering. Did you cast this piece of aluminum that you machined? If you did it's a product of your casting method as aluminum should be plenty able to cope with what you were trying to do with adding preset tension on the bearings. Keep up the good work. Your a young man that makes me proud. Pretty sure your Dad is mighty proud of you to.
Needs a case and paint. But otherwise it's really impressive, especially when you used the auto feed last video. The finish was excellent for any lathe let alone a home made one. A case over the back and head stock etc would really finish it off and protect the bearings etc.
Would have been cool if you threaded the back end of the spindle and made a matching threaded 'nut' to screw onto it. This would replace the need for your 16 bolt pully attachment for keeping the bearings pushed together. This is generally what non-home made lathes have for this purpose.
Loving the music playing around 4 minutes. Epic, calm. Sometimes the epicness is a bit too much for these types of videos, but it's good music. Edit: Song name, Black Radiance -- by FormantX -- Album: Let Them Look
good job making it work. buy your self a small bottle of thread cutting oil and put couple dabs of oil on your part before turning it. help the inserts last longer. I see everybody comment about the bearings with no grease or oil. looks to me you had some grease on them when you where installing the new locking hub.
The recess that you're brushing chips out of at 3:23 can be used to index your chuck onto the mounting plate...doing this will minimize the run-out of the chuck. Just turn a mirror image of the back of your chuck onto the mounting plate, locate and drill the mounting holes and you're done.
the way we would put bearings on 100 - 200 hp motors would be to heat the bearing in an oven (not real hot though) and then they would just slide right on. No whacking lol!
As a machinist there is so many things about this build i cringe at, so it is really impressive this works at all, let alone as well as it does. Also I definitely don't have time or patience for a machine build of this scale so its been interesting watch it all come together.
I would leave the chuck dry after cleaning it because that way filings wouldn't stick to the inside and build up. On industrial lathes in the factory would be running 16 house a day for two shifts.I never had a problem after that cleaning dry wax can help for tight units
I will give you a complement. Yes you have made a few mistakes along the way however when you make something from scratch with limited hand tools you have done a fantastic job in your construction. As for all of the nay Sayers I would like to see what kind of lathe they would make. I will be building me another lathe after I get settled into my new home with an attached garage. I will use some of your ideas.
hey...not bad! btw...if you grind some flats on the spindle shaft where your set screws in the pulley hub meet the spindle, it will be much more secure and you wont have to tighten as much reducing posibility of cracking the hub or stripping threads.
Hello, I'm Brazilian, lathe was very good, I follow his assembly from the beginning, I'm starting to make mine now and I intend to do almost the same as yours, I'm subscribed to your channel and I follow your posts, I'll use your videos as an example, if you allow me , send a cut bedame to us, here these tools are very expensive, if I send you even after I send you my address, congratulations on the lathe, hugs.
Cheap and easy way to adjust speeds.. Get a 2 speed motor from an evaporative cooler. Fit a variable speed pulley to it and have a spring loaded tensioner to take up the belt slack. That should give you a fair range of adjustment with minimal effort for about $100 - $150 all new parts.
good work bro. I think if you sit down and put key way on the pulley and cut threads on the spindle end put on a lock nut .Good to go and locks sideways movement.
That's why you need to put way scrapers on there because every time you go back and forth the little hard piece of neoprene or whatever they make that material out of nylon or whatever material they use might be Teflon it cleans the laid off every time you go back and forth you put one on the front the back the side to side access and it keeps your machine clean
Still a fascinating achievement, I'll forever be amazed. How about a stepped pulley on the motor (like a drill press) and some sort of slide rail for the motor? Just trying to think of an inexpensive solution.
your headed the right direction, but you need to do more. need to cover those bearings and give them an oil bath, id weld a tank between the two bearing plates(this will also make it stronger) to gather oil and make two cups to hold felt seals on the outside of the shaft. the cups will need a drain to a lower point or they will leak like a window screen so you will need a little low pressure pump to lift the oil to the bearings. also it doesn't matter what the outside of the chuck runs, only what the jaws run. normally on a tapered bearing there is a bevel washer that acts like a heavy spring, this will help keep your bearings adjusted correctly. if you want to get really fancy you might want to put a harmonic dampener in the middle of the spindle.
good job!, but as others have already stated the bearings you have installed are often installed along with a oil/ grease seal on both ends to keep in lubricant and keep out contaminants so that you can get longer life, reduce heat buildup and friction. Grease will be the best bet for most of the RPM you'll be using, anything over 1500 rpms and a good gear oil is the way to. As for gearing, go with a large motorcycle transmission, some other DIY lathe guy used one, and you being a gear head, I figured that would be right up your ally.
Is a really good work, that homemade lathe. Congrats. But, where is the oil? You have to lubricate well everything. And de orientation plus the angle of the tool, in not quite right. Neither the distance from the tool point to the tool tower. Is just an advice, I hope you dont mind. Keep working my friend. Greetings, from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Amazing performance with so much just hand/eye coordination! All the grinding and especially the slots is something I would never attempt. On the other hand, besides truing the chuck, I was expecting you would have applied a longer piece of round steel to the chuck and the magnetic base dial indicator on the cross slide/carriage. Then sweep lengthwise the side as well as the top of the rod. Or was it possibly in the tailstock section that I have not watched yet? Another that surprised me was the failure of the 3 HP motor. I was thinking all along that the lack of torque was odd. In fact, I thought the controller had a low current limit programmed to keep the treadmill acceleration and deceleration safe. The flywheel served the same purpose. Anyway, I would still think a DC motor and a quite low cost control would be ideal for adjustable speed.
On gearing your lathe...i suggest reading dave gingerys book on making a lathe...yes you have the lathe BUT, Gingery has went into depth on building gearing for his lathes..even gears for turning screws...also he shows how to make a half nut ....i believe all your answers are in his book
adding variable speed gears isn't all that difficult, and a really good way to see how it's done is to watch all the videos on here on making the Gingery lathe (a home made lathe from parts you cast as you go). The lathe itself is a little flimsy, but the gearing principle has been the same for lathes of all sizes since the industrial revolution - well tried and true, just about as simple and reliable as you can get. If you can't make it out from the videos, the book by David Gingery has a really good explanation and calculations for pulley sizes and speed ratios. I'm sure you will find when you can spin your job much faster the finish will be mirror-like. And yeah, I can't help myself either - as others have already said: put oils seals on both sides of your bearings ASAP or they will be crap in no time, and for god's sake - pack them with appropriate grease.
Think about putting the motor on a pivot and using a spring loaded variable speed pulley. That way, your motor is at full speed and has all its torque. I've seen them for $20.00 at flea markets brand new in the box.
Leaving those bearings open so chips get into them is a bad idea. You need some oil seals on them. Chips, dust, dirt etc can get in there in NO Time. I have a question. Why did you use a solid shaft instead of a hollow shaft you could pass through for longer items?
You can probably reduce your run out on that chuck by turning the mounting surface behind it again. You turned it then took it apart to make your adapter, put it back together without checking that surface again. Also you can take the chuck off, rotate it to the next set of mounting holes and try it again. That tiny amount can make it better or worse but you won't know until you try it.
I highly recommend some sort of oil seal to keep debris out of the bearings and to keep the grease in them.
I would have liked to see you test the run out of that metal piece you turned. It looked very good. Also you can grab that piece once turned and wiggle it up and down and side to side to see what kind of wobble you have in the bearings with the dial indicate on it.
I really like this home made lathe. I wish I had one :-) Keep up the great work. Cheers !
If you want to cut the vibrations down, pour a concrete base to bolt the lathe to. Filling the voids in the headstock with concrete will help a lot too.
And definitely add oilers to the bearings.
One to create another even better. That is how we have soooo many fine things to work with now. Well done fella. You must remember that only one bearing is needed to hold a shaft. All in all a great build fella ! Regular greasing is a must as well to pressure the stuff out of the chuck. Steel for tat tail end hub will give you less grief in the long run as well. Indicate the chuck alignment plate. That is most likely where your runout is but at the same time, a 10 $ chuck is not a 700 $ unit. Always tighten at least 2 chuck screws too. That will help a lot and NEVER run a dry bearing bud. LOL, time will get ya all dialed in fella. Great build ! Yer noggin is doing great fella !
Dude, as an ASE Master since 78, I have wanted a metal lathe for sometime now. You have a nice sweet setup.
For those tapered wheel bearings, I would suggest a plate with an O-ring around the housing. I know you used the rear drive plate to preload the inner bearing race, as a huge nut, locked in place would be almost impossible. But without a center grease seal, those tapered bearings are going to collect more metal shavings, dirt, dust and anything else in the shop. A flat thin plate with an O-ring groove in it to help seal the back of the chuck. A brake lathe has a convoluted rubber boot over the main shaft.
I will be the first to admit, these will be design challenges but needed. But build yourself or pay 45k for a nice used one. Only one who would give a thumbs down should be told that. It has been said; It ain’t yours unless you build it.
I would never be able to get as far as your lathe is now, but I just want to say, excellent job in your work. I wish a salvage yard would be as generous as yours is.
Liked & subscribed!
Good job. Yeah. Other than the bearings not being lubricated I still give you an A plus. You made something i would have never attempted to do myself. Smart kid. Love your builds man. Keep up the great work. Im a new fan of your channel & seen the entire lathe build. Love it.
To take some scrap steel & turn it into a useable tool worth a lot of money to buy even a used 1 is awesome.
I generally build stuff i need for tools, just nothing as complicated as a lathe. I never imagined of building one either but you gave me motivation to maybe build 1 myself. Especially after seeing how much better you made it every time you did an important to it. And seeing how exactly you made some of the parts. I used 1 as a kid in school and loved making things with it. Maybe when I get my new shop setup i will try to build 1 myself. You get a pat on the back from me. Keep up the good work & awesome builds. Cheers for your future as a true machinist
Wow, man you are awesome!....didn't realize that young people still had such skills and determination!
Always take apart new Chinese made chucks and clean before use. They are normally full of casting grit and junk. Grease those new bearings! They'll burn up in no time with no lube.
Tater79bj exactly what I was going to say. Thank you, I'm glad to not be the only one thinking clearly.
i was about to post this exact same thing grease those wheel bearings or it wont last 2 weeks
The bearings are a oil bath bearing. Greasing them wont do anything other then fling grease on the wall.
MotorHead Garage they are NOT oil bath bearigs
No you would oil the bearings they are turning too fast
You'll kill those bearings in no time running them dry. They're meant to be packed with grease. Grease seals on both sides would be advisable to keep the grease from being flung out and to keep chips out of the bearings. To vary the spindle speed, stepped drive pulleys are the simple way. Variable speed is nice but you can usually get close enough to the ideal surface cutting speed with a pair of stepped pulleys.
or just a felt trash seal on other side, with an oiler on a drip tube to oil them.
I guess i didn't show it in the video but I did pack them with grease, thanks.
Butch S. B
@@ratherBweldingChris still needs seals
wouldnt sealed roller bearings be a better alternative. of course the tapered bearing can take out the slack as well as being cheap but definitely the idea of them not sustaining sufficient lubrication seems pretty legitimate.@@mrgreenswelding2853
Great job champion! Enjoyed watching this and good to see a young guy having a go! 👍
Awesome lathe.You hit the nail on the head when you took the head apart.People use air to clear the teeth and it blows the chips Into the back of the chuck.Eventually it won't clamp down right.(I used to operate CNC lathes and grinders with pneumatic chucks.They'd get filled with chips and Not clamp tight,or true)Higher speed with slower feed equals less squeal.
The lathe looks awesome! This is the first video I've seen of it(new subsciber). I hate to reiterate what everyone else said but I agree, those bearings need grease. They may not get as much wear as they would inside an axle but they will get worn out pretty fast. I'm not sure how an oiler system works but maybe drilling the bearing housing so you could use a Zirc fitting or something.
RBW bubby i'm proud of you for doing this for yourself im sure you will improve it in time but you have to start somewhere and you got a big jump on this when you built it. glad to know of you.
bro, your machine is one of the best diy lathe i have ever seen.
Need to find a way to pack Grease in your bearings. auto bearings need it. See if you can find some grease seals for them. It would be sad having to take it back apart in a short time to replace them. Great job and videos. keep them coming.
Fantastic dude. Love your lathe series! You could add stepper motors to that bad boy and add some cnc capability!
Great job... The 2nd lathe I'm building will use concrete for the frame, I have a 3hp treadmill motor, I figured out the speed controller and it is quite simple, it seems to have quite a bit of torque at lower speeds, might add a 2nd pulley to gear it down, I am going to also put a treadmill motor on my small craftsman lathe to test out the tread mill motor, I get these treadmills free off of Craigslist, got about 5. I like your bearing setup, I never thought of it, I was worried about preload on my setup I thought about using a crush sleeve, for my oiling system, I am going to install a controllable drip system. The feed system I thought about using a stepper motor and control it with an aduino, don't know if it will be strong enough or fast enough. I'm playing around with adding an encoder to a lawn mower starter motor, of course I have to cast a housing. Looking at my craftsman lathe all the feed and speed for thread cutting is done thru gears even the reverse. I did print a 3d gear for my small lathe it's going on 3 years, don't know how it would hold up on a big lathe, may I can print the gear then cast it. All work in process, good luck and can't wait for the next video.
Very impressive. I was surprised by your choice of bearings but cheap and readily available is a great advantage.
Dude! This is awesome. Gearing: Grab a 5 speed manual transmission from the junk yard, and a 2 or 3 belt pulleys to increase your number of speeds. 2 belt speeds will give you 10 speeds. I would go for it, and do a 3 step belt pulley for 15 speeds. Put the pulley stack between the bearings. Now put a pulley stack on the end (5 steps) and attach it to the saddle screw. With the right combo you will have auto feed.
Oh Hell Yea!! Good work man! I like this series, you have an engineering mind. I agree and liked other's comments about those bearings needing lubrication AND seals to keep grease in and keep grime/dirt out. You're two speed transmission for go-karts, or a version of that design might work with changing speeds on your lathe.....just a thought.
Keep up the cool ideas, I'm a long time fan from your beginning.
Now that you made your leis you continue to improve it better and better and better and getting the tolerances closer and closer you can tell by when you did the aluminum when you were cutting it it's shiny now instead of dull you're doing a great job
Dude you're doing way better because it was five or six thousand out before and now you got it down to one one and a half that's great as you keep working on it you're going to get it better and better every time look at that you started Major Lazer and you using all the tools that you made to make it better to constantly improve it great job totally awesome
I'm finishing up a homemade milling machine and have started getting the parts together for my own lathe build. You did an excellent job here, fuck what anyone else says. It's impressive as hell.
Very impressive young man.... Nice work...... your dad should be proud of you....
amazing job i'm proud of you making your own lathe ! that takes skill
Well, as I saw your first video my thoughts were "That ain't gonna work even close to a lathe.."
But you officially stunned me. This project turns out to get better and better ;)
my factory lathe has the same runout on the external chuck.. No worries, you need to dial a precision ground rod in the chuck to see the real runout anyway.. looks damn good to me
Congrats, seems like it's running alot more better for you and you are getting more experience too!
Always check run out off a piece of drill rod in the jaws. The body of the Chuck isn't as important as what's in the jaws.
Nice upgrade! I would try some cutting oil. Even with carbide. It sounds and cuts a lot nicer on my lathe when I use cutting fluid. Also I would put some oil on the bed of the lathe, it looks dry. Manual on my old lathe is very particular about lubrication, so I always keep everything nice and oiled
Great Job!!
You can wash greasy steel parts with soap and hot water!! Just drop a few drops of oil on it when you take it out! Then dry!
A beautiful explanation and a great work and important to all levels of turning ... Thank you very much ... A new friend from Sirte Libya
Been watching your work for a while now,had to leave a comment..your know nonsense approach to all your builds,is inspiring,and the quality awesome..the CBR600 build your doing now 2019,I'm really looking forward to seeing on the road..would be great if you started a business doing what you do..the possibilities are endless,..anyway, Respect.🙂👍🇬🇧
Rheostat's a dimmer switch which is old school and suck. You are right about not having the torque using one, would just bog down the motor under load if you don't fry it first because they run hot. Now a days equipment uses a digital signal, meaning the full power is pulsed to get the speed. In other words, the full speed would be no pulses in 2 seconds, as half speed would be 2 pulses of full power a half second apart in 2 seconds, to control speed for a motor. You get the torque from the full power pulses.
Those old bearings are still mint. The lathe at my job has at least twice the run out on the chuck and I use it for some precise work still. You get it to work right when you got a cheapskate boss, LOL.As for that chuck of yours, that ain't nothing compared to what I dug out of the one at my job, LOL. You would freak out real bad if you seen it, LOL.
Awesome vid but figure out a way to grease those shaft bearings. They won't last.
Awesome build,a consideration you could make is to dowel your bearing housings rather than to allow only on the bearing bolts not coming loose while turning. Fantastic effort you have made for sure.
Been following the series and man... hats of to you! Superb motivation for the project :) Congrats. Word of advice only: beware with the very week support (only one screw) on the cutting iron at 5:55 minute. It may fly away towards you. On the side of that: congrats for the example you represent for most of us!
Looking at the construction through the series i would now guess that some of the chatter is coming from the slides on the carriage not being tight enough. If it is possible, simple filling and shimming on the edge of the main carriage plate to move the sides in as close as possible to base would help with chatter and accuracy a lot. For a speed control an idea would be to use something like a quad or dirt bike gearbox from a blown engine for a gear drive speed control, after removing the cylinder head and piston, replace the flywheel with a pulley for a motor and then a simple sprocket and chain drive to the lathe spindle would easily handle the power. Being a machinist myself has made it relay interesting to watch the construction of this with limited tools.
The ringing is from the tool bit being hung out to far. Keep the tool as tight to your tool holder as you can always.
Using wheel bearings now you got the right idea.
I would like to see you install some sort of seals on those taper bearings so chips can't get in them. You saw that there were chips inside the chuck so you can imagine them getting in the bearings and thrashing them. You did an awesome build and I like how you did it with scrap iron from a junk yard.
Another amazing video! I would like to have such a big workshop as you! :)
I know this is old as hell but you can buy a small 4speed 110cc atv engine, then gut the top end. Remove the crank and make a straight shaft with a pully or gear on it then hook your motor through that into the lathe. You would have a 4 speed gearbox with reverse.
Was the best gearbox idea i was able to come up with.
Looking good! Why make another aluminum one instead of iron?
1. Pack those wheel bearings with grease.
2. Install a flange to cover the bearings and keep chips out of them.
3. Use a drift to wedge the spindle hub against the bearing races. Those aluminum threads aren’t going to last long!
AND PLEASE GREASE THOSE NEW BEARINGS IF YOU DONT DO ANYTHING ELSE!
I should put grease on those bearings that are on the shaft
Did you pack your bearings or are you running them dry?
Привет Американский брат! Пишу тебе из далёкой России, я здесь тоже занимаюсь станкостроением:) вроде что-то тоже получается. Хочу тебе пожелать успехов в этом деле, большое спасибо за полезное видео!!!
You're a very impressive young man, MIT should give you a full scholarship, instead, they choose people like "clock boy".
Obama and Clock Boy, what a pair.
I have seen this done with car steering shaft installs. Get the hub where it needs to be then use a drill bit or something that will fit through the set screw holes and put marks on the shaft that you can drill dimples approx 1/4 inch into the shaft so that way the set screws have something to grab onto. Hope this idea helps and this is a great build.
Cast iron is used in machine beds because it is strong, and doesn't have the thermal expansion of steel. It doesn't bend or warp much, and dissipates the vibrations, not because of the ping it makes. Not sure who said that, but it was worth a good laugh... Nice machine BTW, need to protect the head stock and the cross slides. The chatter is coming from the bed, it isn't ground even. A millimess will show you that it's not straight probably to 0.1mm.
Use a power window motor & gear box from a car, forward n reverse all ready set up.
That will get direction changes, maybe adding a DC potentiometer might get your speed for driving the "carriage " .
Build or buy a four step pulley system, like a inch steps for both the motor n head stock. Multiple speeds there.
Example
1725 motor speed
3-8 646 spindle
3-6 862.5
4-5 1380
5-4 2156. Changing the belt fast n easy. Build your steps as you desire , maybe a 2-12 for 287.5 rpm .
As a boy we made a wood lathe with a 2" to a three step on a separate shaft to three step on the lath it self.
Yes was a bit of work , the center block that held the second shaft was movable quick easy adjustments.
Gave us many speeds.
since you turned your own spindle anyway, if you ever upgrade again you might try leaving the middle of the spindle a larger diameter than the ID of the bearings. then you can get them as tight as you want by tightening those diamond shaped peices of plate that hold the bearing races.
your build has been great.
Tool stick out is a big problem. You want as much of the tool in the tool post as you can. That 2-3 inches of stick out is singing like a tuning fork. Try different inserts also. that can also make a difference. Great series and good luck.
If you drilled small detents in the shaft where the hub screws contact it, then you wouldn't have to tighten down the screws on the hub so much since they would now have divots to catch on in the shaft/spindle/Arbor (whatever we're referring to it as). That way you could tighten down the rest of the hub screws for clamping down the bearing assembly and not have to worry about the hub sliding out of place or being cranked down too tightly... hopefully that explanation makes sense... awesome video and great job on the lathe in general btw! Impressive
You can do with out bearings to get a precise result, just make a hole at the top to put oil and a small diagonal grove on the spindle to distribute the oil, but not right through .
You need to pack your barings with Grease.
Hello from Norway. On my lathe I use a motorcycle gearbox. Works perfect. Carl
While there are many things I would do different, I never made a spindle and you have. So kudos to you :)
Are your bearing adjustment screws pushing directly against the bearing race? If so I would add an extra ring to spread the load.
If you have a torque wrench, use it to get the same load on all bearing adjustment screws. And maybe locktide those screws inplace.
A lot of people are mentioning how those bearings need grease, and that's true, but they also need axial preload, that is, they need to be tightened down along the axis to ensure the rollers fully engage in the taper of the race.
Okay...... 1. Indicater gages aren't meant to be used with the machine running. That's a guaranteed way to destroy them.
2. Great job on the lathe.
3. while you were rotating your chuck by hand, I could see that your indicater holder was deflecting every time. So, you may have even less run-out than you initially think. Try a better more sturdy stand when you can get one and I think you might be pleased with the results.
You could use a variomatic instead of gears.
The discs are supercheap, like 15 bucks, and this would also give you more torque at lower speed...
Or you could turn them yourself.
It is more than a good enough for a homemade lathe! I bet I could use it on professional purposes in cases where high precision is not needed! Looks solid enough! Great work! By the way if you combine steel and concrete (with some additives) in moulds you could get a less vibrating construction but I guess it will take some inventional thinking.
Nice to see you tweeking this project to this point. I think I saw your bearings with grease packed in them. I'm pretty sure you are not that naive. please make something to either cover them, or drill in a grease passage and install a Zerk fitting in the bearing retainers to allow regular greasing of the bearing assemblies. Your aluminum problem had me wondering. Did you cast this piece of aluminum that you machined? If you did it's a product of your casting method as aluminum should be plenty able to cope with what you were trying to do with adding preset tension on the bearings. Keep up the good work. Your a young man that makes me proud. Pretty sure your Dad is mighty proud of you to.
Needs a case and paint. But otherwise it's really impressive, especially when you used the auto feed last video. The finish was excellent for any lathe let alone a home made one. A case over the back and head stock etc would really finish it off and protect the bearings etc.
Would have been cool if you threaded the back end of the spindle and made a matching threaded 'nut' to screw onto it. This would replace the need for your 16 bolt pully attachment for keeping the bearings pushed together. This is generally what non-home made lathes have for this purpose.
My lay opinion is that the workpiece needs cutting fluid, and the ways of the knife holder need grease. Congratulations on your progress so far.
Loving the music playing around 4 minutes. Epic, calm. Sometimes the epicness is a bit too much for these types of videos, but it's good music.
Edit: Song name, Black Radiance -- by FormantX -- Album: Let Them Look
To avoid re-engineering you could install the metallic seals ftom SKF called Nilos, they will keep grease in place. VERY NICE JOB!
good job making it work. buy your self a small bottle of thread cutting oil and put couple dabs of oil on your part before turning it. help the inserts last longer. I see everybody comment about the bearings with no grease or oil. looks to me you had some grease on them when you where installing the new locking hub.
The recess that you're brushing chips out of at 3:23 can be used to index your chuck onto the mounting plate...doing this will minimize the run-out of the chuck.
Just turn a mirror image of the back of your chuck onto the mounting plate, locate and drill the mounting holes and you're done.
Guess I should've watched a little more before commenting....lol
Nice job! Make sure and drip some lube oil into those Timken bearings.
the way we would put bearings on 100 - 200 hp motors would be to heat the bearing in an oven (not real hot though) and then they would just slide right on. No whacking lol!
As a machinist there is so many things about this build i cringe at, so it is really impressive this works at all, let alone as well as it does. Also I definitely don't have time or patience for a machine build of this scale so its been interesting watch it all come together.
Homemade lathe part 52, home made lathe gets the two speed transmission!
I would leave the chuck dry after cleaning it because that way filings wouldn't stick to the inside and build up. On industrial lathes in the factory would be running 16 house a day for two shifts.I never had a problem after that cleaning dry wax can help for tight units
Ohhhhh, the man who sad this with the cast iron... Thanks.... :D
Might be a good idea to put a little high temp grease in those bearings
I will give you a complement. Yes you have made a few mistakes along the way however when you make something from scratch with limited hand tools you have done a fantastic job in your construction. As for all of the nay Sayers I would like to see what kind of lathe they would make. I will be building me another lathe after I get settled into my new home with an attached garage. I will use some of your ideas.
hey...not bad!
btw...if you grind some flats on the spindle shaft where your set screws in the pulley hub meet the spindle, it will be much more secure and you wont have to tighten as much reducing posibility of cracking the hub or stripping threads.
Thanx for the more mature music too.
You could always do an electronic lead screw and use a encoder on the spindle to keep the lead screw and spindle in time with each other.
Самый классный самодельный токарный станок который я видел
You should be using a sealed bearing setup on that. Gonna cost a little bit more but will last 100 times longer
Hello, I'm Brazilian, lathe was very good, I follow his assembly from the beginning, I'm starting to make mine now and I intend to do almost the same as yours, I'm subscribed to your channel and I follow your posts, I'll use your videos as an example, if you allow me , send a cut bedame to us, here these tools are very expensive, if I send you even after I send you my address, congratulations on the lathe, hugs.
Omg pack them bearings there not gonna last any time at all
I felt like Jason was going to plunge a machete into your chest out of nowhere once that music started playing and you took apart the lathe...
Great job your a friggin genius. 😀
Cheap and easy way to adjust speeds.. Get a 2 speed motor from an evaporative cooler. Fit a variable speed pulley to it and have a spring loaded tensioner to take up the belt slack. That should give you a fair range of adjustment with minimal effort for about $100 - $150 all new parts.
I am in France and I discovered your work. Fantastic. I would like to build one as well. when will you continue the videos ?
станочек получился супер ставлю класс!!!!!! уважуха тебе
good work bro.
I think if you sit down and put key way on the pulley and cut threads on the spindle end put on a lock nut .Good to go and locks sideways movement.
That's why you need to put way scrapers on there because every time you go back and forth the little hard piece of neoprene or whatever they make that material out of nylon or whatever material they use might be Teflon it cleans the laid off every time you go back and forth you put one on the front the back the side to side access and it keeps your machine clean
Still a fascinating achievement, I'll forever be amazed. How about a stepped pulley on the motor (like a drill press) and some sort of slide rail for the motor? Just trying to think of an inexpensive solution.
Alignment of chuck is great. But you have to Align test bar clamp by chuck. Unless you want to regrind the chuck jaws after this to reduce vibration.
your headed the right direction, but you need to do more. need to cover those bearings and give them an oil bath, id weld a tank between the two bearing plates(this will also make it stronger) to gather oil and make two cups to hold felt seals on the outside of the shaft. the cups will need a drain to a lower point or they will leak like a window screen so you will need a little low pressure pump to lift the oil to the bearings. also it doesn't matter what the outside of the chuck runs, only what the jaws run. normally on a tapered bearing there is a bevel washer that acts like a heavy spring, this will help keep your bearings adjusted correctly. if you want to get really fancy you might want to put a harmonic dampener in the middle of the spindle.
good job!, but as others have already stated the bearings you have installed are often installed along with a oil/ grease seal on both ends to keep in lubricant and keep out contaminants so that you can get longer life, reduce heat buildup and friction. Grease will be the best bet for most of the RPM you'll be using, anything over 1500 rpms and a good gear oil is the way to.
As for gearing, go with a large motorcycle transmission, some other DIY lathe guy used one, and you being a gear head, I figured that would be right up your ally.
Is a really good work, that homemade lathe. Congrats. But, where is the oil? You have to lubricate well everything. And de orientation plus the angle of the tool, in not quite right. Neither the distance from the tool point to the tool tower. Is just an advice, I hope you dont mind.
Keep working my friend. Greetings, from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Amazing performance with so much just hand/eye coordination! All the grinding and especially the slots is something I would never attempt.
On the other hand, besides truing the chuck, I was expecting you would have applied a longer piece of round steel to the chuck and the magnetic base dial indicator on the cross slide/carriage. Then sweep lengthwise the side as well as the top of the rod. Or was it possibly in the tailstock section that I have not watched yet?
Another that surprised me was the failure of the 3 HP motor. I was thinking all along that the lack of torque was odd. In fact, I thought the controller had a low current limit programmed to keep the treadmill acceleration and deceleration safe. The flywheel served the same purpose. Anyway, I would still think a DC motor and a quite low cost control would be ideal for adjustable speed.
On gearing your lathe...i suggest reading dave gingerys book on making a lathe...yes you have the lathe BUT, Gingery has went into depth on building gearing for his lathes..even gears for turning screws...also he shows how to make a half nut ....i believe all your answers are in his book
adding variable speed gears isn't all that difficult, and a really good way to see how it's done is to watch all the videos on here on making the Gingery lathe (a home made lathe from parts you cast as you go). The lathe itself is a little flimsy, but the gearing principle has been the same for lathes of all sizes since the industrial revolution - well tried and true, just about as simple and reliable as you can get. If you can't make it out from the videos, the book by David Gingery has a really good explanation and calculations for pulley sizes and speed ratios. I'm sure you will find when you can spin your job much faster the finish will be mirror-like. And yeah, I can't help myself either - as others have already said: put oils seals on both sides of your bearings ASAP or they will be crap in no time, and for god's sake - pack them with appropriate grease.
Think about putting the motor on a pivot and using a spring loaded variable speed pulley. That way, your motor is at full speed and has all its torque. I've seen them for $20.00 at flea markets brand new in the box.