This is the video to follow. Watched several of these and he’s the only one that showed the actual solder process. The others just showed how to take it off. Good video
This was a great demonstration - thanks for showing the detailed steps in approaching the job, from resetting the cluster instruments to reflowing of the connections to main connector and everything else. Thanks again.
It worked!!! Thanks. I skipped the entire flux step (don't have the gear/know-how) and just touched a fine tip to each joint around the odometer, including resistors (both sides of the board). Not hard to do at all with a long fine solder tip. Odometer is almost blindingly bright now. [Edit: Solder gun was a Weller WES51 set at maybe 800 degrees F] ... oh, and I'm not very good at soldering either.
I just finished fixing my odometer. It worked!!! Hurray!!! Thank you so much for making this resource available. Without it I would not be able to figure it out on my own. I would mail a cheque to you but, I am broke (that's why I fixed my odometer myself ha ha ha).
good job showing the soldering. Before I did my videos no one would ever show what to solder so I had to figure it out as I filmed, which is why mine goes over multiple videos. Your method for getting the needles accurate I've never seen before... looks like a lot of work but I guess it works. I think this is why most folks decide to send it off rather than try to DIY
I’m going to do mine now, combining what I learned from this and your video, “Mr. Dad”. I’ll mark my needle positions with dots from a soft pencil, however, which I can later erase. Btw, in the Canadian version anyway, holding down the reset button while reading the total mileage it converts km to miles and vice versa, a point of trivia.
The weird corrosion and watermark you see on some of those boards are probably either vehicles that were in salvage yards with windows missing or complete instrument clusters laying outside of a car and the humidity got to them.
Rewatching tonight, since I did the reset last year after reflowing odo connections. Rpm’s at zero w engine off but about 150 lower than actual when running, according to my scan tool. Fuel gauge still reads slightly lower than pre-removal, as does the temp gauge, both which I had to set manually. Speed is good ( per my scan tool). Have to remove the cluster to fine tune by sight, again. Setting fuel gauge tricky since when showing exactly full it can still vary a few litres I find, before starts to drop.
How much would it cost to have this done? I just bought my first P71(she's a 2010) and my dash lighting is barely visible and i really wanna get it fixed. Im not a savey tech guy..
So I did this today and soldered just the points around the odometer itself. The solder seemed okay didn't notice any problems but when I went to plug it back in just to test it on the car, the odometer won't come on at all whereas before it was just really dim. Any idea what I did wrong?
Not too sure what I'd call it, maybe a shift indicator? though that sounds more like something you'd use in a tuned up manual car. Should be easy enough to get at a junkyard though.
Junction Runner, I have a broken LED odometer and a fuel gauge that takes HOURS to move to full after I fill my tank. My check engine light is on for PO462 (Low Voltage from Fuel Sender Unit). Would a new instrument panel or rebuild fix all these issues?
eazy thing to attempt with that, lift plastic off top of steering column, & there are 2 wires on top of column that go to gear shift lever(OD off button) there may be a minute short in those 2 wires - BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TRIP THE NEARBY AIRBAG WIRES... ps it may even work to hit that OD off button if your not going on freeway(OD off means 4th-freeway gear off).. & see if that fixes it. If it does, you know it’s those wires, or their plug, or the switch.
2011 CVPI P7B: All the gauges work, gauge back lighting works, and warning lights work, but only the digital odometer doesnt work. I can't see miles anymore, what's wrong? I pulled every fuse and are all good. Please help!
I'm going to have to try this with mine there used to be a guy on Facebook that would do it for 70 bucks with a two day turnaround but apparently he's no longer in business
Ur speedometer goes to 220, most CV speedometers go to 140? I think?, so what makes you think that instrument cluster is the same board layout as most?
This is the correct repair to fix the dim odometer on Ford Crown Vic, and Mercury 'Panther' platform.
Good job.
You saved me hundreds of dollars.
This is the video to follow. Watched several of these and he’s the only one that showed the actual solder process. The others just showed how to take it off. Good video
This was a great demonstration - thanks for showing the detailed steps in approaching the job, from resetting the cluster instruments to reflowing of the connections to main connector and everything else. Thanks again.
coming back to say thank you so much for the informative video. never soldered in my life but this video helped me right through. good as new
It worked!!! Thanks. I skipped the entire flux step (don't have the gear/know-how) and just touched a fine tip to each joint around the odometer, including resistors (both sides of the board). Not hard to do at all with a long fine solder tip. Odometer is almost blindingly bright now.
[Edit: Solder gun was a Weller WES51 set at maybe 800 degrees F]
... oh, and I'm not very good at soldering either.
Thanks for sharing. Back in 2011, I did 26 2010 Vic's, I did the exact same fix you did 👍
are you adding solder or just 8:44 reheating what’s already on there?
I just finished fixing my odometer. It worked!!! Hurray!!! Thank you so much for making this resource available. Without it I would not be able to figure it out on my own. I would mail a cheque to you but, I am broke (that's why I fixed my odometer myself ha ha ha).
good job showing the soldering. Before I did my videos no one would ever show what to solder so I had to figure it out as I filmed, which is why mine goes over multiple videos. Your method for getting the needles accurate I've never seen before... looks like a lot of work but I guess it works. I think this is why most folks decide to send it off rather than try to DIY
I’m going to do mine now, combining what I learned from this and your video, “Mr. Dad”. I’ll mark my needle positions with dots from a soft pencil, however, which I can later erase. Btw, in the Canadian version anyway, holding down the reset button while reading the total mileage it converts km to miles and vice versa, a point of trivia.
@@aeyb701 I seem to learn as much as I teach... thank you for sharing that tip
Thought I was headed for a resolder but a couple quick raps on the cluster fixed it, for now.
Awesome video! Fixed odometer lighting issue right away.
Appreciate the information. My odometer light in my 2010 has gone out although the vehicle still has very low mileage and runs like a dream.
My 2010 has gone out also, somewhere around 130k
Thank you, I fixed my instrument cluster.
The weird corrosion and watermark you see on some of those boards are probably either vehicles that were in salvage yards with windows missing or complete instrument clusters laying outside of a car and the humidity got to them.
Great Job Thank you.
Wow!! It worked thank you! I didn’t even use solder just tapped it with the gun!
Rewatching tonight, since I did the reset last year after reflowing odo connections. Rpm’s at zero w engine off but about 150 lower than actual when running, according to my scan tool. Fuel gauge still reads slightly lower than pre-removal, as does the temp gauge, both which I had to set manually. Speed is good ( per my scan tool). Have to remove the cluster to fine tune by sight, again. Setting fuel gauge tricky since when showing exactly full it can still vary a few litres I find, before starts to drop.
How much would it cost to have this done? I just bought my first P71(she's a 2010) and my dash lighting is barely visible and i really wanna get it fixed. Im not a savey tech guy..
The reflowing of the connector looks tricky ie avoiding bridged connections. Hard to tell but do you just apply heat to the tips of the pins?
So I did this today and soldered just the points around the odometer itself. The solder seemed okay didn't notice any problems but when I went to plug it back in just to test it on the car, the odometer won't come on at all whereas before it was just really dim. Any idea what I did wrong?
Funny how the needles reset electronically without it “knowing” where you initially and arbitrarily put them. That I don’t get. I have to Google that.
2:53 what would I call that part, I broke mine and need a new one
Not too sure what I'd call it, maybe a shift indicator? though that sounds more like something you'd use in a tuned up manual car.
Should be easy enough to get at a junkyard though.
Junction Runner,
I have a broken LED odometer and a fuel gauge that takes HOURS to move to full after I fill my tank. My check engine light is on for PO462 (Low Voltage from Fuel Sender Unit). Would a new instrument panel or rebuild fix all these issues?
i was orignally having this issue but then it stopped. now im having an issue with the cluster randomly turning off lol
eazy thing to attempt with that, lift plastic off top of steering column, & there are 2 wires on top of column that go to gear shift lever(OD off button) there may be a minute short in those 2 wires - BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TRIP THE NEARBY AIRBAG WIRES... ps it may even work to hit that OD off button if your not going on freeway(OD off means 4th-freeway gear off).. & see if that fixes it. If it does, you know it’s those wires, or their plug, or the switch.
great video. Thank you.
If I don't do this will the odometer display eventually go out completely?
Yes, eventually it will but it's basically random chance.
Question, my odometer comes on once every 6 months or so. sometimes dim sometimes very bright like it should. Think it's the board or harness ?
Most likely the board, as the harness would be a pretty low failure rate item.
Where in Canada are u located im having the same issue on my 2011 cvpi. Thx
Would this work on a grand marquis?
Great video could not figure out why the needles kept going backwards
2011 CVPI P7B: All the gauges work, gauge back lighting works, and warning lights work, but only the digital odometer doesnt work. I can't see miles anymore, what's wrong? I pulled every fuse and are all good. Please help!
You need to redo the solder on the surface mount resistors underneath the odometer.
Hoping to get this done before my Vic hits 200k miles. She’s sitting around 185k rn
Could you fix mine if I send it to you?
why doesn't the abs light go out? I think I have the same problem with my crown vic!
Try replacement the clock spring in the steering wheel.Rock auto has different prices.
This video was helpful
I'm going to have to try this with mine there used to be a guy on Facebook that would do it for 70 bucks with a two day turnaround but apparently he's no longer in business
I have several Vics with cluster issues. Do you want some business?
I'm in Canada, so unfortunately that makes shipping these things around likely pretty expensive if you aren't.
Ur speedometer goes to 220, most CV speedometers go to 140? I think?, so what makes you think that instrument cluster is the same board layout as most?
I've seen teardowns of the others, the only difference would be the programming for the US market and a different plastic overlay.
If by ‘programming’, U mEn a 4d dealer would B nEded.. forgeedt idt👋😒
@@ezwa9979 it’s 220kph. It’s not an American crown vic. Exact same boards with a different printing of the back lay.
@@cnrails gud deal - ‘just printing’ better thN ‘programming’✋
Canadian, eh?
I need help with that, I can pay for this to you