Thanks for watching! Subscribe for weekly videos! More regular content from me in these places: 💌 newsletter: mwroll.com 🎞 instagram: instagram.com/mwroll 🪙 patreon: patreon.com/micaelwidell 🐦 twitter: twitter.com/micaelwidell 📸 my favorite macro lens: bit.ly/mwlaowa60 (best price + free shipping worldwide at that link :)
Thanks again for the video! I have learned so much from them. Btw I have found it easier to choose the correct aperture for a particular magnification by checking the actual aperture for the macro lens in question. If I have understood this correctly it's not really about magnification that makes the lens darker and results more diffraction at 2:1 compared to 1:1 etc. You can have a macro lens that is equally bright and have similar level of diffraction at large magnification. But most of the lenses are designed to be compact and loose light (like with teleconverters). (And this is totally fine because you need to use smaller aperture for large magnification anyways to get at least some DoF.) So for Laowa lenses I think you can calculate the actual real aperture by: Real f = shown f x (1 + magnification) So for 2:1 magnification when you have chosen f/4 from the Laowa lens the actual f is 12. But I don't know how this differs between different lens manufacturers.
With focus peaking, I like to set the film simulation to black and white. Focus peaking will then show as brightly colored areas on an otherwise B&W screen making them easier to see. Any saved jpg's will be B&W, but RAW images will still be full color.
Inspiration creates motivation. Great tips for macro shooters. Generally it's good to see how other photographers approach fairly mundane tasks. Appreciate all the work that goes into your weekly offerings.
I am learning from your videos so thank you for that. I am frustrated though because I have a Olympus e510 camera from when they first came out. I never did anything with it really. I recently got it out of the closet. Then began looking at videos where I discovered macro photography. Your pics are great! The reason I got my camera out of the closet is because I bought a telescope so I could take pics of the moon and stars. I couldn't get it to hold focus. I did get some ok pics of the moon, but wildlife pics just didn't work so I sent telescope back. I got a 70x300 lens for my camera. I haven't used it yet, because I am watching several videos to see what to do. I am fascinated with macro pics. I want to learn to do that. Thanks for sharing your videos. They make me want to go out and really try.
Thank you Micael - the Liveview setting were my issue on my Nikon Z6ii - for those who need it go to menu - controls - D9 - apply setting to liveview (on or off). Just remember to turn them back on if not doing macro! I just kept getting blown out images because I was adjusting my settings based on what I was seeing. Now it's perfect.
Just one amendment to this comment. You don't really even have to remember about turning the setting off - at least for Nikon. As soon as you turn off the flash the viewfinder and screen return to normal functions showing true exposure.
The best tutorial for my beginning to macro. An 36mm extension on my Nikon 50mm Your settings on camera and flash, and I was able to get great shots. Dziękuję Ci
My new Laowa 65 mm 2.8 lens, for my Fuji camera arrived today. Not had much time to try it yet, but the few shots I have managed to take, I have been blown away with. If the first few shots are anything to go by, I’m going to have some great fun with this lens. I’ve already changed some of my settings, so will give them a try. Only got into macro last year, after watching some of your videos, but already I’m having so much fun with it. Thanks for all your help. Micael.
Intressant och givande! Det fascinerande med att höra om dina erfarenheter med mirrorless kameror är att en del av tipsen finns inte på min Canon 7d dslr, picture preview är en av dom då jag för ta en titt efter att bilden tagits! Annars så är majoriteten av tipsen väldigt relevanta för mig också! Ha en fin fredag och helg!
This was really useful, you said that you don't use auto iso because it gave an ISO too high which made the image noisy. Noise is actually not a property of ISO, noise is from light acting as particles and in low light conditions, there is less of an averaging and more outliers, creating noise. Side note, diffraction is light acting as a wave. Quantum physics plays a big part in photography, it's a bit mind bending to think about.
bought the Laowa 65mm after watching your video, it is a beautiful lens. Using the exact same setup except no flash yet. Great video and great tip, I was shooting it wide open, going to try it around f8
Great video Micael. Macro photography scares me as I have never had much success. You make it sound so simple and have inspired me to go out and try it again and maybe even record my experience on my channel. A big thanks fro sharing. Cheers Keith
Hi, I'm new to macro photography, and I really like your channel, and I wanted to know what setting I should use, with a tt350f to do focus bracketing with flash, thanks
Thank you Micael. I very much enjoyed you tips. My biggest challenge, especially if handheld, is keeping the camera steady and getting the focus correct.( Canon 5D mkIV with Macro 100mm or 70-2000 2.8) I like manual focus for sure. Tripods are nice but when trying to shoot insects like butterflies or bees in the garden I find them impractical. Any tips on tricks for steadying?
Thank you so much for your awesome videos. They are really inspirational and helpful. I have just started with macro photography and i'm still a noob with settings etc. Especially with flash settings. I read somewhere else that you set yourflash to what value you want in maual mode, but then switch back to ETTL. But if i understand correctly from your video your advice is to keep it in manual mode and not use ETTL right? (I use Canon Speedlight 430 EX II)
There is no use setting the power manually and then give back the authority to the camera by switching to ETTL. ETTL will try to guesstimate the required flash power by evaluating a test flash, but that means every exposure will differ, because sometimes the flash will be to dim, because ETTL tries to compensate for some specular highlights, sometimes it will be completely overpowered, because ETTL deemed the background brightness more important than your subject. As you already set your ISO, aperture, shutter speed (irrelevant in this case) and focus distance manually, the flash power required for the given parameters is always the same (at least if the flash is the main/only light source). So do a test shot (preferably of your subject) using your settings with 1/16th power as suggested, check your histogram for under- or overexposure, when necessary adjust the power and start shooting & stop worrying…
Yes correct. I have auto-preview enabled so I always immediately see my latest photo in the viewfinder right after taking it. I look at that exposure and adjust the flash up or down depending on how it looks.
@@MicaelWidell Thanks. Initially, when you set camera settings to ambient light before setting flash, your shutter, aperture, and iso are not tied to a meter? Are you trying to get decent exposure settings for the camera (before flash) using the camera meter? Or no?
Thank you for the tutorials. Your videos help me a lot. One question though. My speedlite flash has a zoomhead (24-105mm). Does it matter which zoom setting I use for the flash? I use a Laowa 60mm 2.8 2x, with an AK diffuser.
Hi micael First off, i really love your work. You are the main reason i got myself into macro. My question is, have you ever shot with a full frame camera + 100mm macro. If so, how do you get crisp pin point results.
Hi Michiel, I’m really doubting between the Meike 320s and the Godox TT685. I saw you use both, I was wondering which you find yourself using the most?
Hey MW thank you for this! One Q - I’ve the Sony fe 90mm 2.8 macro which should be doing pretty good macros yet still it sometimes struggle to focus at distances closer than 30cm for example.. also some people I see stack 200 photos .. which is a lot of work.. is this approach so much better than just bumping up the F ? I’d reallly love to take a close up shot of a fly’s eye for example do you think the 90mm 2.8 will suffice or is extra equipment needed?
I must be doing something right because (apart from auto-review) my method and settings are pretty much the same as yours. One other thing that I might try sometimes (with insects) is to shoot in low continuous mode (at about 3 fps) in order to increase the chance of getting an eye in focus, but this only works with flash at a low power setting (1/16 or less) to ensure rapid recycling.
Love this video, the only thing is settings flash as I use the Laowa macro 100mm. I can set flash manual from 24mm to 105mm, so very wide or small. What setting you suggest?
@@MicaelWidell Hi, I think my flash YN685 is too big for diffuser. Next time I will use my SB700 it's smaller, but your Metz flash fits better I think.
A great review of your settings. Saving this for when I pickup my camera. One question on cameras as I make my final decision. Do you see any downside for higher rez vs lower resolution for getting sharp pictures? I am debating between Nikon Z6II and Z7II and pairing with the Lowa 100mm macro. I have heard some people say it is more challenging to get sharp with higher res.
That doesn’t make any sense to me. Only downside I can think of is you need a bigger hard drive if storing the raw files. Larger resolution should not affect how you take the photo.
@@MicaelWidell Yeah, when I heard them say that I was scratching my head to at why would that be. Hard drive space isn't a concern so I am planning to go ahead with a Z7 II. Thanks again!
The only difference is that the more megapixels will show up your mistakes much clearer when you zoom in, but if you nail it in camera you won’t have any issues 😊
Hi Micael ! I don't know if it's what you call diffraction but when I shoot in low shutter speed such as 1/60s or 1/80s my images tend to have a kind of ghosting effect on some part of the insect. I don't know if you understand what i mean. Do you know what it is and how to avoid that ? Anyway thanks for all you videos, your content is really helpful.
I know what you mean and it is not diffraction. rather it is an effect of there being too much natural light on your subject, making for some motion blur due to the slow shutter speed
@@TheDarkSixMusic Yes if it is direct sunlight on the subject and you combine that with a flash you will have to use a faster shutter speed. The flash is fast but the sun is constant light, so a slow shutter speed will be apparent when the sun is shining directly on the subject. In most cases you should try to block the sun anyway, as the colors will be nicer and softer in the shade with just a flash.
Hey, wanted to ask, if using the a6400 with the laowa 65mm, can I do with the inbuilt flash or I need to buy an external flash? (Maybe you could make a video about it, since when I searched only found 1 video from Stewart wood and that was not satisfying. Thanks😇
Can I make do* I meant three inbuilt flash with a handmade diffuser, one which involves a folded piece of paper on the lens, like u have that foldable diffuser
I tried that and I found the built in flash too weak to get good results. I recommend an external flash. Check my video about the Meike mk320 - that one is good and cheap.
I have the Meike 320 but really struggle with it. Somehow I hit the something wrong on power line. I have it in Multi mode, power can be set from 1/4-1/128, but thats not my real issue. The problem is with the other settings in that row. Time ---, 01, 02 and HZ 01-199. Its these settings I am lost on. So any help understanding these settings is welcome
Your question is already 4 months old, but perhaps the answer will still help you or someone else struggling with this. The Multi mode is not the mode you should use for macro photography. The Multi mode is a gimmick to realize a strobe effect by firing the flash multiple times, hence the name Multi. The values you mentioned are how often the flash should fire and at what frequency (Hz meaning actuations per second). For Macro work you want to be in manual mode.
I would say your aperture suggestions are way too optimistic (if you don't plan to stack, which is often not possible). The real problem in macro photography is the extremely shallow DOF, especially when doing higher magnification, so shooting at f/4-8 is simply not enough. My usual advice is to shoot at the smallest aperture your lens/camera combination allows without getting too much diffraction. Shooting Sony FF with the nice Sony 90 macro f/2.8 you can get to f/14-15 with non big problems.
Yes but as I tried to explain in the video diffraction gets a lot worse at high magnifications. At 1x that is the max of Sony 90mm f/14 indeed works well.
I own A6400 and currently using extension tubes for macro. Planning to get a dedicated macro lens and confused between Sony 90mm f2.8 and Laowa 65mm. Only worried about lack of image stabilisation on laowa. Will it be a concern for insect photography if I use a flash
I can't help but thinking the Fuji cameras are way overrated...Everybody seems to love them to death but in my experience they're quite clunky and uselessly limiting. Plus the ergonomics are a pain in the ass compared to other brands.
Thanks for watching! Subscribe for weekly videos! More regular content from me in these places:
💌 newsletter: mwroll.com 🎞 instagram: instagram.com/mwroll
🪙 patreon: patreon.com/micaelwidell 🐦 twitter: twitter.com/micaelwidell
📸 my favorite macro lens: bit.ly/mwlaowa60 (best price + free shipping worldwide at that link :)
Thanks again for the video! I have learned so much from them. Btw I have found it easier to choose the correct aperture for a particular magnification by checking the actual aperture for the macro lens in question.
If I have understood this correctly it's not really about magnification that makes the lens darker and results more diffraction at 2:1 compared to 1:1 etc. You can have a macro lens that is equally bright and have similar level of diffraction at large magnification. But most of the lenses are designed to be compact and loose light (like with teleconverters). (And this is totally fine because you need to use smaller aperture for large magnification anyways to get at least some DoF.)
So for Laowa lenses I think you can calculate the actual real aperture by:
Real f = shown f x (1 + magnification)
So for 2:1 magnification when you have chosen f/4 from the Laowa lens the actual f is 12.
But I don't know how this differs between different lens manufacturers.
With focus peaking, I like to set the film simulation to black and white. Focus peaking will then show as brightly colored areas on an otherwise B&W screen making them easier to see. Any saved jpg's will be B&W, but RAW images will still be full color.
Amazing tip! Thankyou
This is an excellent tutorial. I hope you do other tutorials that similarly describe your camera settings during different picture taking scenarios.
Inspiration creates motivation. Great tips for macro shooters. Generally it's good to see how other photographers approach fairly mundane tasks. Appreciate all the work that goes into your weekly offerings.
I just started macro photography, and I just wanted to say thank you. You've helped me a ton
How do you like Macro ? I’ve just started myself it can be challenging
I learn more from your videos than from those of any other photographer on UA-cam. Many thanks.
Thank you for those starting points. It'll save me a little bit of time.
My boy with the Squarespace sponsorship!! Congrats on your success with growing your channel.
One feature I recently discovered was depth of field preview. That can be helpful in certain situations as well.
As a macro newbie, this video helped me a lot. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the helpful tips! On my XT-3 my back wheel zoom focuses when pressed and toggles focus peaking on/off when holding. 2 in 1!
Thx for this tip!
I am learning from your videos so thank you for that. I am frustrated though because I have a Olympus e510 camera from when they first came out. I never did anything with it really. I recently got it out of the closet. Then began looking at videos where I discovered macro photography. Your pics are great! The reason I got my camera out of the closet is because I bought a telescope so I could take pics of the moon and stars. I couldn't get it to hold focus. I did get some ok pics of the moon, but wildlife pics just didn't work so I sent telescope back. I got a 70x300 lens for my camera. I haven't used it yet, because I am watching several videos to see what to do. I am fascinated with macro pics. I want to learn to do that. Thanks for sharing your videos. They make me want to go out and really try.
Great job. Thanks!!
The best macro photography guru. Tq sir 😀
Omg! Thank you for the brighten the EVF! I could not figure out why the screen was so dark.
Thank you Micael - the Liveview setting were my issue on my Nikon Z6ii - for those who need it go to menu - controls - D9 - apply setting to liveview (on or off). Just remember to turn them back on if not doing macro! I just kept getting blown out images because I was adjusting my settings based on what I was seeing. Now it's perfect.
Just one amendment to this comment. You don't really even have to remember about turning the setting off - at least for Nikon. As soon as you turn off the flash the viewfinder and screen return to normal functions showing true exposure.
Thank you Michael, I found my answer only on your video.
Awesome :) Happy to help!
The best tutorial for my beginning to macro. An 36mm extension on my Nikon 50mm
Your settings on camera and flash, and I was able to get great shots. Dziękuję Ci
A clear xplanation. thxs. Olympus is also a top camera for macro
Great! Very practical and useful tips especially for begginers like me. Thanks for sharing
That's such an excellent video, you really helped me a lot to understand the flash. Thankyou.
Thank you Micael for your new video, especially for flash settings info. You do great work, you are my greatest inspiration!
Bro. It works really well on my fuji. I watched tons of tutorial but this one answers all my question. Thank you!
Happy to hear that :)
Thanks a lot. I use Olympus. Very useful advice.
Thanks!
Great, on point 😊
Your advice and information, are so important to me. It helps me so much. Once again, a great and informative video. Thanks Micael.
Tussund tack för bra förklaring..
I learned a lot from this video. Thanks
This is what I need. Thank you so much.👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🙂🙂🙂
Thank for your video, i am just starting to do some macro, your advise is greatly appreciated, rick from Australian 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Love your lessons I’ve learnt a lot …thank you
My new Laowa 65 mm 2.8 lens, for my Fuji camera arrived today. Not had much time to try it yet, but the few shots I have managed to take, I have been blown away with.
If the first few shots are anything to go by, I’m going to have some great fun with this lens. I’ve already changed some of my settings, so will give them a try.
Only got into macro last year, after watching some of your videos, but already I’m having so much fun with it. Thanks for all your help. Micael.
It is indeed lots of fun, and the 65mm is perhaps the greatest lens they have produced so far. Have fun!
Thanks for this video, clear and simple. You got a new subcriber
Wonderful detail here, I definitely learned a lot from your explanations thanks so much.
I’m happy it was helpful :)
Very useful tips! Thank you for sharing! :)
Intressant och givande!
Det fascinerande med att höra om dina erfarenheter med mirrorless kameror är att en del av tipsen finns inte på min Canon 7d dslr, picture preview är en av dom då jag för ta en titt efter att bilden tagits!
Annars så är majoriteten av tipsen väldigt relevanta för mig också!
Ha en fin fredag och helg!
Thank you very much for doing this Micael!! Have saved me a lot of time and fustration figuring out the necessary settings on an xt4 🙏
Excellent advice, thank you.
This was really useful, you said that you don't use auto iso because it gave an ISO too high which made the image noisy.
Noise is actually not a property of ISO, noise is from light acting as particles and in low light conditions, there is less of an averaging and more outliers, creating noise.
Side note, diffraction is light acting as a wave. Quantum physics plays a big part in photography, it's a bit mind bending to think about.
Crazy helpful thank you
bought the Laowa 65mm after watching your video, it is a beautiful lens. Using the exact same setup except no flash yet. Great video and great tip, I was shooting it wide open, going to try it around f8
Thank you so much for sharing your experience! 😊🙏
Thanks.
Great video Micael. Macro photography scares me as I have never had much success. You make it sound so simple and have inspired me to go out and try it again and maybe even record my experience on my channel. A big thanks fro sharing. Cheers Keith
Happy to hear that!
Hi, I'm new to macro photography, and I really like your channel, and I wanted to know what setting I should use, with a tt350f to do focus bracketing with flash, thanks
1st comment, love your channel. Keep it up! Your experiences are helping me as I start my macro journey!! Cheers!
This is great. It is really helpful.
Thank you 👍📸
exactly what i wanted to ask you. thankssss!!
I set my Fujis to a B&W film simulation when shooting macro. It makes focus peaking a good deal more effective for my aged eyes.
That’s clever :)
Very useful.
I was thinking and it went like this: "I should ask Micael if he can do a video on flash settings" -> "no wait, I'm sure he has done one"
Haha at this point I have covered most subjects within macro photography :)
Very interesting, have you got a video for setting fir street photography. I am calling from Italy near asti
kul att se nytt =) ta hand om dig ! keep on the good work and nice to see new content.
Thank you :)
Thank you Micael. I very much enjoyed you tips. My biggest challenge, especially if handheld, is keeping the camera steady and getting the focus correct.( Canon 5D mkIV with Macro 100mm or 70-2000 2.8) I like manual focus for sure. Tripods are nice but when trying to shoot insects like butterflies or bees in the garden I find them impractical. Any tips on tricks for steadying?
70-2000? Must have cost a mint.
@@wayneberry3453 true enough. But with all the money I’m saving on gas (3 weeks to the gallon!) it all balances out😎
Thank you so much for your awesome videos. They are really inspirational and helpful.
I have just started with macro photography and i'm still a noob with settings etc.
Especially with flash settings. I read somewhere else that you set yourflash to what value you want in maual mode, but then switch back to ETTL.
But if i understand correctly from your video your advice is to keep it in manual mode and not use ETTL right?
(I use Canon Speedlight 430 EX II)
There is no use setting the power manually and then give back the authority to the camera by switching to ETTL. ETTL will try to guesstimate the required flash power by evaluating a test flash, but that means every exposure will differ, because sometimes the flash will be to dim, because ETTL tries to compensate for some specular highlights, sometimes it will be completely overpowered, because ETTL deemed the background brightness more important than your subject.
As you already set your ISO, aperture, shutter speed (irrelevant in this case) and focus distance manually, the flash power required for the given parameters is always the same (at least if the flash is the main/only light source). So do a test shot (preferably of your subject) using your settings with 1/16th power as suggested, check your histogram for under- or overexposure, when necessary adjust the power and start shooting & stop worrying…
Very helpful, thank you. Your settings are not tied to a meter reading at all?
Yes correct. I have auto-preview enabled so I always immediately see my latest photo in the viewfinder right after taking it. I look at that exposure and adjust the flash up or down depending on how it looks.
@@MicaelWidell Thanks. Initially, when you set camera settings to ambient light before setting flash, your shutter, aperture, and iso are not tied to a meter? Are you trying to get decent exposure settings for the camera (before flash) using the camera meter? Or no?
Thank you for the tutorials. Your videos help me a lot.
One question though. My speedlite flash has a zoomhead (24-105mm). Does it matter which zoom setting I use for the flash?
I use a Laowa 60mm 2.8 2x, with an AK diffuser.
I don't think it matters that much in macro. I always set it to the widest setting (24mm in your case) to get as good spread as possible.
@@MicaelWidell oke. That makes sense. Thank you for your response
Do you recommend a flash that will keep up with burst shot?
Hi micael
First off, i really love your work. You are the main reason i got myself into macro.
My question is, have you ever shot with a full frame camera + 100mm macro. If so, how do you get crisp pin point results.
& do you have samples of you using such a setup?
Doesn’t matter what focal length you are using, the same things apply. Search for my video “7 foolproof steps” and follow these steps.
Diffused flash is the key - plus practice and be prepared for a low keeper rate (one in ten would be a very good achievement).
a very nice video, Michael. Covers a broad range of settings. I wanted to ask if the a6000 has focus peaking and focus magnification?
A6000 have both 👍
Nice tips!! Do you ever do focus stacking or no?
Sometimes I do it. I have a couple of videos about it. But mostly I only take single shots
Hi Michiel, I’m really doubting between the Meike 320s and the Godox TT685. I saw you use both, I was wondering which you find yourself using the most?
Use lower flash power to freeze your subject.
Good point. Should have mentioned that.
Hey MW thank you for this! One Q - I’ve the Sony fe 90mm 2.8 macro which should be doing pretty good macros yet still it sometimes struggle to focus at distances closer than 30cm for example.. also some people I see stack 200 photos .. which is a lot of work.. is this approach so much better than just bumping up the F ? I’d reallly love to take a close up shot of a fly’s eye for example do you think the 90mm 2.8 will suffice or is extra equipment needed?
Hi, could I asking : the ring light result as the same of flash light ?
Did I miss the exposure compensation setting?
When shooting in manual mode, exposure compensation is not a relevant concept, since you lock in aperture iso and shutter speed.
Finding these very helpful, does the brand of flash matter, as long as you can do manual fill?
Brand does not matter
Any idea how to find these viewfinder settings in Canon?
I must be doing something right because (apart from auto-review) my method and settings are pretty much the same as yours. One other thing that I might try sometimes (with insects) is to shoot in low continuous mode (at about 3 fps) in order to increase the chance of getting an eye in focus, but this only works with flash at a low power setting (1/16 or less) to ensure rapid recycling.
Love this video, the only thing is settings flash as I use the Laowa macro 100mm. I can set flash manual from 24mm to 105mm, so very wide or small. What setting you suggest?
24mm is probably best. You want the light to spread as much as possible. But depends a bit on your diffuser
@@MicaelWidell I just bought the Dörr diffuser
@@57sapke 24mm is probably best then
@@MicaelWidell Hi, I think my flash YN685 is too big for diffuser. Next time I will use my SB700 it's smaller, but your Metz flash fits better I think.
A great review of your settings. Saving this for when I pickup my camera. One question on cameras as I make my final decision. Do you see any downside for higher rez vs lower resolution for getting sharp pictures? I am debating between Nikon Z6II and Z7II and pairing with the Lowa 100mm macro. I have heard some people say it is more challenging to get sharp with higher res.
That doesn’t make any sense to me. Only downside I can think of is you need a bigger hard drive if storing the raw files. Larger resolution should not affect how you take the photo.
@@MicaelWidell Yeah, when I heard them say that I was scratching my head to at why would that be. Hard drive space isn't a concern so I am planning to go ahead with a Z7 II. Thanks again!
The only difference is that the more megapixels will show up your mistakes much clearer when you zoom in, but if you nail it in camera you won’t have any issues 😊
I have a hard time getting a lot in Focus. Only a vary little bit in the center is in focus. Any help.
Is your image style altough on daylight? or neutral or standard or what?
Daylight or cloudy. Whatever is 5500-5600 K
how do u earn as macro photography or even if u suggest some incomes of macro photographer it would be great. Thank you
What do you think about the Olympus FL-LM3 flash for macro?
Haven't tried it so I cannot say. Most flashes are good enough for macro though.
Hi Micael ! I don't know if it's what you call diffraction but when I shoot in low shutter speed such as 1/60s or 1/80s my images tend to have a kind of ghosting effect on some part of the insect. I don't know if you understand what i mean. Do you know what it is and how to avoid that ?
Anyway thanks for all you videos, your content is really helpful.
I know what you mean and it is not diffraction. rather it is an effect of there being too much natural light on your subject, making for some motion blur due to the slow shutter speed
Micael Widell okay it was un full sunlight on midday
@@TheDarkSixMusic Yes if it is direct sunlight on the subject and you combine that with a flash you will have to use a faster shutter speed. The flash is fast but the sun is constant light, so a slow shutter speed will be apparent when the sun is shining directly on the subject. In most cases you should try to block the sun anyway, as the colors will be nicer and softer in the shade with just a flash.
Which diffusor would you recommend?
Check the video description
Tja jag har en fråga angående canon ef 100 2.8 makro lensen. Är det en bra första makro. Behöver ha något som funkar ok till porträtt med nämligen
Absolut det är ett jättebra objektiv som är mycket skarpt.
@@MicaelWidell tack så mycket, Beställde ett nu :). Får väll göra mig en test video på den :)
Hi Micael. What do you think about the sony a6000 + samyang 100mm f 2.8 combo?
I would buy the Laowa 65mm instead. Check my reviews of both lenses. The camera is very good value for money though.
@@MicaelWidell ok, thx
Hey, wanted to ask, if using the a6400 with the laowa 65mm, can I do with the inbuilt flash or I need to buy an external flash? (Maybe you could make a video about it, since when I searched only found 1 video from Stewart wood and that was not satisfying. Thanks😇
Can I make do*
I meant three inbuilt flash with a handmade diffuser, one which involves a folded piece of paper on the lens, like u have that foldable diffuser
I tried that and I found the built in flash too weak to get good results. I recommend an external flash. Check my video about the Meike mk320 - that one is good and cheap.
Sir please tell me in which camera model for insect good photography
Under 40000 thousand in Indian rupees
I would get a Sony A6000 with that budget
I have the Meike 320 but really struggle with it. Somehow I hit the something wrong on power line. I have it in Multi mode, power can be set from 1/4-1/128, but thats not my real issue. The problem is with the other settings in that row. Time ---, 01, 02 and HZ 01-199. Its these settings I am lost on. So any help understanding these settings is welcome
Your question is already 4 months old, but perhaps the answer will still help you or someone else struggling with this. The Multi mode is not the mode you should use for macro photography. The Multi mode is a gimmick to realize a strobe effect by firing the flash multiple times, hence the name Multi. The values you mentioned are how often the flash should fire and at what frequency (Hz meaning actuations per second). For Macro work you want to be in manual mode.
I would say your aperture suggestions are way too optimistic (if you don't plan to stack, which is often not possible). The real problem in macro photography is the extremely shallow DOF, especially when doing higher magnification, so shooting at f/4-8 is simply not enough. My usual advice is to shoot at the smallest aperture your lens/camera combination allows without getting too much diffraction. Shooting Sony FF with the nice Sony 90 macro f/2.8 you can get to f/14-15 with non big problems.
Yes but as I tried to explain in the video diffraction gets a lot worse at high magnifications. At 1x that is the max of Sony 90mm f/14 indeed works well.
Which Sony camera you are using with Loawa 65mm lenses? I am looking for Sony camera for the same. Presently I am using SonyRX10M4.
In my Laowa 65mm review video I use the Sony A6000. You can use any APS-C Sony e-mount camera such as A6000, A6400, A6500 etc.
Micael Widell Thanks 🙏
Which flash do u use for Fuji
ua-cam.com/video/3DsBE2LpObA/v-deo.html
I always write such things in the video description
Thank you
I own A6400 and currently using extension tubes for macro. Planning to get a dedicated macro lens and confused between Sony 90mm f2.8 and Laowa 65mm. Only worried about lack of image stabilisation on laowa. Will it be a concern for insect photography if I use a flash
You definitely do not need image stabilization. Watch some of my videos to see me take photos without it.
I can't help but thinking the Fuji cameras are way overrated...Everybody seems to love them to death but in my experience they're quite clunky and uselessly limiting. Plus the ergonomics are a pain in the ass compared to other brands.
Everyone has different taste and needs
Thank you so much for the information. Keep up the great videos👍