OMG you answered the question of the over run/ over fire when upgrading the voltage!! Made total sense. Moves so quickly it simply cannot stop itself. We were thinking it was voltage regulator or some thing ... but that part of your video has made my month!! Thank you!!
Chris - I just have to say this to you, and I really mean it. I have been struggling with my Stampede for years..... I love it, and it is one of my favorite blasters, you know - old school plunger action can be so much fun compared to all of the flywheel stuff out now... So, I say that, to say this... THANK YOU! Your video finally showed us how to rewire our Stampedes, by by-passing the silly big white switch, with the micro-switch, so that the run-away firing is no longer an issue, and with the other upgrades I've done over the years to mine, including a bigger primary spring, battery up-grade, the metal gears, and personal cosmetic stuff, my Stampede is truly a piece of art and an excellent, and (now really reliable) performing blaster!! Again, all thanks to you and this tutorial!! Also, your video on the new Regulator mod is so very, amazingly helpful! I don't know why more folks aren't checking out your work - you are a great asset to the Nerf community, and I just want to say thank you again from the bottom of my heart!!
First, you are so very welcome, I couldn't be happier that in some very small way, we could help with getting your Stampede where you wanted it to be. Second I would love to see some pics of your blaster, I have always loved Stampedes. They may be a little dated these days, but they are still super fun to play with, and when modded well are still good enough to get it done.
you know what really grinds my gears? no, it's not stock gears in k26'd stampede, it's the fact that I had to dig so much to get a comprehensive guide. I was gonna do this joke initially but then I thought more about it and I think it's all right and I appreciate doing a bit of detective work!
Thanks for this great guide! How do you make sure the bolt is all the way back so you can remove magazines? I made one using this technique and I am struggling with cycle control.
Even with the active breaking... without that white lever thing, couldn't the plunger tube stop half-way advanced if you release the trigger at the wrong time?
It does take a little getting used to, But I have never had any issues getting it to complete a cycle and fire. If it does stop short the return spring will push the plunger back to it's home position and your ready to go again. The braking on the motor just makes it easier to single fire if you want to.
Seeing as they did that with the longstrike, I would definitely want to see a new stampede. Perhaps maybe adding a barrel attachment, and having it take c batteries instead of d batteries.
Hi I followed this mod guide to the letter with the sole exception of brassing the breech but I cannot for the life of me get it to fire. Tried running on 4S and 3S batteries, reinfoced the catch and beefed up the catch engagement springs. Darts consistantly get stuck in the dart gate and prevent more darts from feeding. The system works fine when the plunger is asssted by hand but not under power and I am running out of things to try. Any help appreciated. Thank you
Not 100% sure my friend, I didn't have any such issues with mine. Can you shoot me a video clip over to Project.Nerf.2.0@Gmail.com ? I'll take a look and perhaps we can figure out what's going on with your blaster....................Chris
Hey Chris I have a Question....have you ever heard of anyone making a Stampede a flywheeler by adding a cage & adding a full-auto kit from worker can it be done & would it be worth it ?
Actually I went half and half on one I did for pdk films. I designed and printed an internal after burner for it, I replaced the stock motor for better rate of fire.
@@projectnerf7920 what I was thinking (I love the Stampede shell) but I don't care for the ka-chunk,ka-chunk, ka-chunk....what if ya just gut it completely & basically throw a full-auto stryfe inside the thing(parts wise)....would be an AWESOME MOD video & it will bring the be-loved stampede more up to date....just an idea I got bouncing around ?
@@projectnerf7920 oh dude...there's a lot of room in there you could even duel-stage the thing if ya wanted to (easy to talk about, not easy to do...I'm sure ) already started tearing mine apart (wish me luck BRO) edited: as I opened the blaster I noticed there's not enough room in there...the flywheel cage has to set too high up because of the barrel position & you would have to chop the shell all up ( oh well, back to the drawing board) lol
You don't have to replace the motor itself, but I would very highly recommend a re-wire. The stock wiring isn't designed to handle the increased voltage or current from Lipo batteries.
Do you have to remove the air restrictor? Btw what 4s lipo are you using? I'm going to be using a 9kg spring with metel gears and a upgraded catch spring. Plus the rewire.
If you are going to brass the breech, I would recommend it. If not then leave it in it helps to avoid vacuum loading. It's a Turnigy 2200 mah 45c90c burst, but you can use much larger in a stamp if you want too. Lots of room in the battery compartment.
I can follow the wiring up to the point where the black negative splits off from the normally closed on the switch and into the other half of the Gun shell. What happens after that? Also how would I wire up the master arming switch again if I wanted that feature? Any diagrams would be most appreciated. Great vid. (Subscribed)
I think that may be the problem. you said common mistake is when people wire 2 AA holders in parrarel. what do you mean because I have 2 AA holders which the 2 negatives are on the negative and the 2 positives are on the positives. s that okay?
Sadly I don't have the blaster anymore, it was sold out of our Etsy shop. But the breaking is nice if you are going to run a very high fire rate. It does take a little getting used to, as you can actually, not pull the trigger long enough and the blaster will only cycle about half way without shooting. But once you get the feel for it, I think it's a nice little control boost.
You do the best mods by far thank you for all your old content and new stuff..but...ugh..if YOU can only get 75 fps out of a stampede then theres almost no point in modding it. Ive got the upgrade kit but man if 75 is the best the best can get...wat a bummer..same as the vulcan..awesome looking but pathetic performance...have you ever flywheeled a stampede or vulcan? I know it would take major shell modification but it would be awesome and give me (and others) a great example of what to do w the 8 stampedes and 12 vulcans i pretty much didnt want(except the clear and green ones) but got from online thrifting. Thank you again for all your videos.
If you have the kit from EZ mods. You should get around 140 or so out of it. I did an internal afterburner in 2 of them for PDK Films. Micro wheel and cages, no shell cutting and hitting about 90 or so.
Mortality Nerf showcased a stampede on his channel with a better brass breach mod hitting 4 darts per second @ 170fps he doesn't say the spefics of his mod but i think a experienced modder could figure it out. The nerfhaven has a better design for the brass breach that dates to 2012 and creates a near 100% air seal it has a fair bit of dead space and needs a update for a stefan dart breach i think a 3d printed magwell would be fairly straight forward to move the chambering nere the rear of the magwell. From the information Mortality Nerf revealed about his blaster it uses a 12kg spring and the return and acociated catch springs are upgraded to suit. I think designs like the stampede that follow a airsoft gearbox design will make a comeback if they were updated with newer tech parts. The whole flywheel vs springer war rages on but a mechanical springer combines the best of both worlds.
@@projectnerf7920 I only just got into nerf and i am seriously considering modding one, the only reason i havent is because i own a 3d printer i am going Caliburn + basic stryfe/ woozie maybe hammershot loadout i am not liking the hammer right now will see if a 3d printed hammer holds upto a 10kg spring. The stampede mod doesnt require any 3d printed parts unless you want stefan darts which the adapter could be purchased off the shelf. I am messing around with a cycloneshock its a lot of fun, i think the strongarm is better but known to brake and requires a better plunger arm mod. With better 3d designers around and 3d printing becoming more main stream for the hobbie there are so many nerf guns getting major revamps by modders. I was talking to a airsoft modder about their plunger system and how effective it would be for nerf basically the same setup as they have doesnt move enough air but the setup it self is what we need. If a modder was to redesign a airsoft system with a bigger plunger say the size of the caliburn 1-1/2" or 40mm (they are different sizes as 1-1/2" is around 38mm which isnt sold where i am) for metric countries and using a k26 style spring we would have the best of both worlds of a springer with a higher rate of fire.
I tried a K26 spring in one once. I did get it cut down enough for the blaster to function, though there was a bit of spring rattle. The problem I had shortly there after ,was the K26 put so much torque in the system that it broke the gears in the gearbox. I would have to say, that without a very upgraded drive train, K26 is a bad idea. Even an 8kg spring causes premature failure. A 6kg spring load is all that I personally have ever gotten any durability with. But with enough mods anythings possible right????
I have a problem. can you help me. I opened up my stampede and I realized that the AR is removed already and the plunger has a cushion. I changed the o ring to a better one and I put it back together. then I did a battery mod. I used 8 AA batteries to try and run it on 12v, but when I assembled it and started using it, its shooting very slowy. do you know what could be wrong?
Well I hope I can help. There are a few things that can cause it to run slowly. The first possibility, is the new O ring. If it is too tight, the friction will cause the blaster to run slow and shoot poorly. Remember that the plunger tube has a slight taper to it, so the plunger may slide smoothly for the first little bit and then get pretty tight. Knowing that you upgraded the voltage to 12v, leads me to believe this could be the problem. Did you remove the board from the motor? just asking because there is a fair amount of resistance there, so even though you have a 12v battery pack, you may be getting less at the motor. Make sure you battery pack/ packs are actually producing 12v, a common mistake is to wire 2 , 4 AA holders in parallel instead of series. I would double and triple check those things first. If they check out, shoot me a mail and we'll try to go from there............................................................................................... Chris
No, surely didn't. I removed it and the stock switch that it pushes to auto cycle. With them removed and a new micro switch behind the trigger there is no way fir it run have a runaway at all.
i have a quick question: i've modified the exact same way as you, but no upgrade spring and yet im still stripping gears and i have no idea why. i've 3d printed replacements until i order stronger nylon ones but i have no idea why the gears keep stripping?
That's quite odd, normally you only have trouble stripping gears out when you go up on the spring load. I'm at a bit of a loss here. But if it were mine I would double check to make sure that everything in the gearbox is lined up correctly and turns freely without the motor in. You might also check to make sure that nothing is catching/hanging up on the plunger assembly as it goes forward. If you like , send me a few pics over to Project.Nerf.2.0@Gmail.com. I'll take a look and see if anything jumps out at me, as far as problems go................ Chris
Does it run when you pull the trigger? If not it’s probably a bad safety switch. Also I have seen a ton of them not run due to corrosion on the battery terminals.
how fiesable would it be to increase the size of the plunger tube assembly (length and or width)? What kind of power increase would it yield? ie. a theoretcle volume increase of 20% would have what X% end result. Is there sufficent space within the shell for said volume upgrade or would shell mod be required (as i suspect)?
I'm not really sure what kind of power increase you would get, but I have seen expanded plunger retailiators that seem to shoot a mile. I think you are correct you would probably have to do some shell cutting. If I was going to have a go at it, I would expand the tubes width. doing length will interfere with the catch mechanism. It would be a long and interesting project, but it could be done.
thank you.One more question occured tome in the wee hours of 0-dark-30,related to the electric mods iv seen you and others do. Would it be possable/practical to install a variable voltage regulator switch (ie dimmer) to motors to be decresed in there max rpm and power? Pourpous... to set the max fps of your favoriate blaster so that you could use it at events with various fps limits without changing anything except a setting. I hope that made sense.
I have seen that done actually, I myself have never done it. You'd have to use PMW ( pulse width modulation ) to control the motor speed with a potentiometer that way. Iambobolol, did it with his khaos pistol build. Here's the link check it out, you might be able to get an idea of what he used. ua-cam.com/video/_QqOo08QIu8/v-deo.html ................................Chris
You have to really take your time with the brass, and the drilling. Often you can get the brass started in the barrel and then it gets stuck. In that case , I remove the brass and do some more drilling , or sanding. A nifty trick I like to use, is to sharpen up a scrap piece of brass with an exacto, and use it to remove any extra materiel from inside the barrel. Just keep working at it slow and steady, you'll get it....................Chris
@@harveybarton1612 Sorry to resurrect a long dead thread, but usually catch issues mean that the reset spring for the catch is either missing or isn't correctly seated. The catch spring should be sitting on a post atop the catch and should be under pressure again when you close up the blaster again. If your catch spring is missing, you can replace it with a spring from a old click pen cut down.
I have a stampede. I wanna ask you a question if that's okay with you. My stampede is pretty trash. It shoots darts about 3 feet away from the barrel with no real power in it and I don't think its the batteries. Therefore, I have plans which is to mod the gun. I was thinking of taking it apart, removing the air filter, padding and removing air spaces on the plunger stick like you did, and hooking up a new battery onto the stock battery connectors because the batteries are a pain. can you tell me how this sounds and if you think this will make the blaster any blaster. than k you for your time.
That sounds like a good plan to me. If it is shooting so poorly , I would also very carefully check to see if the plunger head is cracked, or the main O ring is dry rotted. If you need any help along the way just shoot me a mail, and I'll be happy to help....................................... Chris
I recently modded my stampede however I have been having major issues, I didn't do a rewrite however I did snip and solder together the leads from the safety switch so it is always on. I also put a stronger spring in there and put hot glue in the little air hole on the plunger head. The problem i am having is that the darts hardly get out of the barrel, and it almost seems like the plunger retracts before the dart can fire so it gets stuck on the dart gate. If you know what the problem may be please help, and if you need me to make a video I can.
Pretty sure I can Help you out. Often When an upgrade spring goes in a Stampede, It cycles improperly. The extra spring load causes the plunger to release just a hair too soon. Generally resulting in the dart just barely getting out the barrel, or getting stuck in the dart door. Is the AR still in? If you upgrade the catch spring as well as the plunger return spring it normally solves the issue. If not shoot me a mail, over too Project.Nerf.2.0 @Gmail.com and well go from there..................................... Chris
nice tutorial, getting my stampede in a week, cant wait to mod, btw if i add more Cell lipo battery like lets say a 5, only my firing speed increases right? Not my actual range/power of shot correct?
Yes, if you add more voltage it will only increase the fire rate. The power in your stampede is based on how strong your spring is and how good the air seal is throughout the system. It can be a delicate balance, I would recommend starting with lighter spring loads and lower voltages. Then increase them gradually until you get the overall performance you are looking for. All the best.......................................Chris
Are you doing a brass breech? if so it's no big deal, when you install the brass, the crack wont matter at all, as the plastic part is really only a holder/guide at that point............. Chris
If you mean the board on the back of the motor, then no you don't need it. But you will have to remove it and solder the wires directly to the motor tabs. However I will say that in my experience I have never seen one go bad. The 2 most common causes of a no running stampede are, 1st, a corroded battery tray/springs that it touches when it's in the blaster. 2nd a bad switch somewhere inside, it could be any of them. The mag safety, the jam door safety ect ect. If I was you I would start with those 2 things before I started gutting the internals.......................... Chris
Project Nerf Thanks for the help, however, I checked both the contacts and they were both in very good condition. I also discarded the damaged switches, and it still did not work. I think that it might have been assembled wrong... the white gear teeth strip on the bottom of the spring tube might have been put in backwards...
I have a piece with the number A5N on it...it looks like it would slide back and forth like the rear catch does... very similar shape, too... I can’t make out where it goes on the video... Nevermind. Found it. Hidden under the orange baseplate at the very bottom of the gun.
Okay, If you want to shoot me a video or some pics over to my regular mail, Project.Nerf.2.0@Gmail.com. We'll see if we can work it out together............................... Chris
That particular blaster was wired for 2s lipo. The one on screen is a 2200mah, 60c 120c burst. I like to use big batteries in my stampedes, just because you have so much room to put one. But pretty much any good sized 2s will do, doesn't have to be anything real specific.
Actually , in a Stampede it's okay. The single motor doesn't require the current, that lipos can deliver. But IMRs would probably be a better choice, even though there expensive.
I'm not real sure about the current, though it's not much on the stock system. It runs on 9 volts , but with the board and resistance in the system, the motor only gets around 7.5 to 8.
On most of my builds, I use 18 awg silicone insulated wire, and 15A micro switches. Which has always worked out well for me. But on the Stamp, there is plenty of room to use 16 gauge and perhaps even 14.
Due to the video being 20 minute long, I elected to not put the firing test segment in. The blaster chronoed out at 91 fps avg and 6.5 darts per second on a 4s lipo.
OMG you answered the question of the over run/ over fire when upgrading the voltage!! Made total sense. Moves so quickly it simply cannot stop itself.
We were thinking it was voltage regulator or some thing ... but that part of your video has made my month!!
Thank you!!
Wow, thanks so much! That's very kind of you to say.
Chris - I just have to say this to you, and I really mean it. I have been struggling with my Stampede for years..... I love it, and it is one of my favorite blasters, you know - old school plunger action can be so much fun compared to all of the flywheel stuff out now... So, I say that, to say this... THANK YOU! Your video finally showed us how to rewire our Stampedes, by by-passing the silly big white switch, with the micro-switch, so that the run-away firing is no longer an issue, and with the other upgrades I've done over the years to mine, including a bigger primary spring, battery up-grade, the metal gears, and personal cosmetic stuff, my Stampede is truly a piece of art and an excellent, and (now really reliable) performing blaster!! Again, all thanks to you and this tutorial!! Also, your video on the new Regulator mod is so very, amazingly helpful! I don't know why more folks aren't checking out your work - you are a great asset to the Nerf community, and I just want to say thank you again from the bottom of my heart!!
First, you are so very welcome, I couldn't be happier that in some very small way, we could help with getting your Stampede where you wanted it to be. Second I would love to see some pics of your blaster, I have always loved Stampedes. They may be a little dated these days, but they are still super fun to play with, and when modded well are still good enough to get it done.
I'd love to see the Stampede come back. Even if it's just a new color.
Oh for sure, I love Stampedes. I always have and always will. A come back would be Awesome!!!!!
yeah i really love the shell
It kind of gets called the rapidstrike but the Stampede looks cooler or actually just the same
I mean the rapidstrike is the replacement
@@KyrinSolaq its not a replacement at all. Rapidstrike uses flywheels. Stampedes are cooler in every way.
you know what really grinds my gears? no, it's not stock gears in k26'd stampede, it's the fact that I had to dig so much to get a comprehensive guide.
I was gonna do this joke initially but then I thought more about it and I think it's all right and I appreciate doing a bit of detective work!
LOL, I like that joke. I hope the video had the info you needed. Much love..................... Chris
Oh yeah, I learned everything I wanted to know, which is why I subscribed.
Glad to hear it my friend..................... Chris
Sorry about the Re-post guys, the audio got messed up the first time. :(
That's given me a whole new perspective on the Stampede, I must try and find one now!
Thanks for this video i have all the parts i needed to upgraded it with lipo found this video right as i was read to start modding.
That's very kind, hope your mod goes great. If you need a hand with anything just drop me a line. Thanks again ..... Chris
Thanks for this great guide! How do you make sure the bolt is all the way back so you can remove magazines? I made one using this technique and I am struggling with cycle control.
Even with the active breaking... without that white lever thing, couldn't the plunger tube stop half-way advanced if you release the trigger at the wrong time?
It does take a little getting used to, But I have never had any issues getting it to complete a cycle and fire. If it does stop short the return spring will push the plunger back to it's home position and your ready to go again. The braking on the motor just makes it easier to single fire if you want to.
Just got two stampedes, really want to get it souped up
Stampedes are still cool, I wish Hasbro would release a revised version of it with more modern internals.
Seeing as they did that with the longstrike, I would definitely want to see a new stampede. Perhaps maybe adding a barrel attachment, and having it take c batteries instead of d batteries.
That would be so sweet.............. :)
I found one of these at goodwill for $8! even had batteries! Surprisingly completely uncorroded!
Hey, a stampede for 8$ is a winner in my book. :)
is the worker mod padding on its own good enough for AR removal?
Should be yes, the stamp doesn’t have a ton of spring pressure
Great video, very easy to follow. Was wondering, what size wire are you using?
18AWG silicone insulated wire, works well for the stamp as the single motor doesn’t draw a ton of current.
Excellent, thanks
Hi I followed this mod guide to the letter with the sole exception of brassing the breech but I cannot for the life of me get it to fire. Tried running on 4S and 3S batteries, reinfoced the catch and beefed up the catch engagement springs. Darts consistantly get stuck in the dart gate and prevent more darts from feeding. The system works fine when the plunger is asssted by hand but not under power and I am running out of things to try. Any help appreciated. Thank you
Not 100% sure my friend, I didn't have any such issues with mine. Can you shoot me a video clip over to Project.Nerf.2.0@Gmail.com ? I'll take a look and perhaps we can figure out what's going on with your blaster....................Chris
Hey Chris I have a Question....have you ever heard of anyone making a Stampede a flywheeler by adding a cage & adding a full-auto kit from worker can it be done & would it be worth it ?
Actually I went half and half on one I did for pdk films. I designed and printed an internal after burner for it, I replaced the stock motor for better rate of fire.
@@projectnerf7920 what I was thinking (I love the Stampede shell) but I don't care for the ka-chunk,ka-chunk, ka-chunk....what if ya just gut it completely & basically throw a full-auto stryfe inside the thing(parts wise)....would be an AWESOME MOD video & it will bring the be-loved stampede more up to date....just an idea I got bouncing around ?
@@projectnerf7920 oh dude...there's a lot of room in there you could even duel-stage the thing if ya wanted to (easy to talk about, not easy to do...I'm sure ) already started tearing mine apart (wish me luck BRO) edited: as I opened the blaster I noticed there's not enough room in there...the flywheel cage has to set too high up because of the barrel position & you would have to chop the shell all up ( oh well, back to the drawing board) lol
@@projectnerf7920 after-burners the way to go & PDK IS AWESOME...those guys are hilarious,
Great Video...I just subscribed man!!! I have a question...Can I upgrade the plunger with the new heavier spring and not do any wiring or a new motor?
You don't have to replace the motor itself, but I would very highly recommend a re-wire. The stock wiring isn't designed to handle the increased voltage or current from Lipo batteries.
how hard would it be to make a flywheel afterburner?
Do you have to remove the air restrictor? Btw what 4s lipo are you using? I'm going to be using a 9kg spring with metel gears and a upgraded catch spring. Plus the rewire.
If you are going to brass the breech, I would recommend it. If not then leave it in it helps to avoid vacuum loading. It's a Turnigy 2200 mah 45c90c burst, but you can use much larger in a stamp if you want too. Lots of room in the battery compartment.
I tightened the spring on a nerf vortex proton so much that when I shot a wooden target, the disc broke the wood. explain NOW
I wish, I had any kind of idea what to tell you about that one. But would love to see it if you have a vid.
I can follow the wiring up to the point where the black negative splits off from the normally closed on the switch and into the other half of the Gun shell. What happens after that? Also how would I wire up the master arming switch again if I wanted that feature? Any diagrams would be most appreciated. Great vid. (Subscribed)
I'll draw you something up. Shoot me a message over to the Gmail and let me know where to email it to.
I think that may be the problem. you said common mistake is when people wire 2 AA holders in parrarel. what do you mean because I have 2 AA holders which the 2 negatives are on the negative and the 2 positives are on the positives. s that okay?
Hey, what battery did you use? And what battery is the cheapest for battery+charger?
Hi mate I rewire mine the same but never set up motor breaking in one. I do in my flywheel boasters though. Can you post a firing demo please. Thanks
Sadly I don't have the blaster anymore, it was sold out of our Etsy shop. But the breaking is nice if you are going to run a very high fire rate. It does take a little getting used to, as you can actually, not pull the trigger long enough and the blaster will only cycle about half way without shooting. But once you get the feel for it, I think it's a nice little control boost.
You do the best mods by far thank you for all your old content and new stuff..but...ugh..if YOU can only get 75 fps out of a stampede then theres almost no point in modding it. Ive got the upgrade kit but man if 75 is the best the best can get...wat a bummer..same as the vulcan..awesome looking but pathetic performance...have you ever flywheeled a stampede or vulcan? I know it would take major shell modification but it would be awesome and give me (and others) a great example of what to do w the 8 stampedes and 12 vulcans i pretty much didnt want(except the clear and green ones) but got from online thrifting. Thank you again for all your videos.
If you have the kit from EZ mods. You should get around 140 or so out of it. I did an internal afterburner in 2 of them for PDK Films. Micro wheel and cages, no shell cutting and hitting about 90 or so.
Mortality Nerf showcased a stampede on his channel with a better brass breach mod hitting 4 darts per second @ 170fps he doesn't say the spefics of his mod but i think a experienced modder could figure it out. The nerfhaven has a better design for the brass breach that dates to 2012 and creates a near 100% air seal it has a fair bit of dead space and needs a update for a stefan dart breach i think a 3d printed magwell would be fairly straight forward to move the chambering nere the rear of the magwell. From the information Mortality Nerf revealed about his blaster it uses a 12kg spring and the return and acociated catch springs are upgraded to suit.
I think designs like the stampede that follow a airsoft gearbox design will make a comeback if they were updated with newer tech parts. The whole flywheel vs springer war rages on but a mechanical springer combines the best of both worlds.
I surely do hope they bring back the Stampede. Of all the blasters out there, it pulls at my heart strings the most.
@@projectnerf7920 I only just got into nerf and i am seriously considering modding one, the only reason i havent is because i own a 3d printer i am going Caliburn + basic stryfe/ woozie maybe hammershot loadout i am not liking the hammer right now will see if a 3d printed hammer holds upto a 10kg spring. The stampede mod doesnt require any 3d printed parts unless you want stefan darts which the adapter could be purchased off the shelf. I am messing around with a cycloneshock its a lot of fun, i think the strongarm is better but known to brake and requires a better plunger arm mod.
With better 3d designers around and 3d printing becoming more main stream for the hobbie there are so many nerf guns getting major revamps by modders. I was talking to a airsoft modder about their plunger system and how effective it would be for nerf basically the same setup as they have doesnt move enough air but the setup it self is what we need. If a modder was to redesign a airsoft system with a bigger plunger say the size of the caliburn 1-1/2" or 40mm (they are different sizes as 1-1/2" is around 38mm which isnt sold where i am) for metric countries and using a k26 style spring we would have the best of both worlds of a springer with a higher rate of fire.
Did the 17/32 in the bolt cause feeding issues? Cause it's a tight fit; wouldn't a 9/16 be better?
That one ran just fine, but often you do have to do a bit of tuning, to get it to run well........................ Chris
do u think i could add k26 spring with these mods?
I tried a K26 spring in one once. I did get it cut down enough for the blaster to function, though there was a bit of spring rattle. The problem I had shortly there after ,was the K26 put so much torque in the system that it broke the gears in the gearbox. I would have to say, that without a very upgraded drive train, K26 is a bad idea. Even an 8kg spring causes premature failure. A 6kg spring load is all that I personally have ever gotten any durability with. But with enough mods anythings possible right????
I have a problem. can you help me. I opened up my stampede and I realized that the AR is removed already and the plunger has a cushion. I changed the o ring to a better one and I put it back together. then I did a battery mod. I used 8 AA batteries to try and run it on 12v, but when I assembled it and started using it, its shooting very slowy. do you know what could be wrong?
Well I hope I can help. There are a few things that can cause it to run slowly. The first possibility, is the new O ring. If it is too tight, the friction will cause the blaster to run slow and shoot poorly. Remember that the plunger tube has a slight taper to it, so the plunger may slide smoothly for the first little bit and then get pretty tight. Knowing that you upgraded the voltage to 12v, leads me to believe this could be the problem.
Did you remove the board from the motor? just asking because there is a fair amount of resistance there, so even though you have a 12v battery pack, you may be getting less at the motor. Make sure you battery pack/ packs are actually producing 12v, a common mistake is to wire 2 , 4 AA holders in parallel instead of series. I would double and triple check those things first. If they check out, shoot me a mail and we'll try to go from there............................................................................................... Chris
You didn't put the white actuator back right? Does it have runaway firing? Cuz I'm planning to wire my Stampede in the exact same circuit as yours.
No, surely didn't. I removed it and the stock switch that it pushes to auto cycle. With them removed and a new micro switch behind the trigger there is no way fir it run have a runaway at all.
i have a quick question: i've modified the exact same way as you, but no upgrade spring and yet im still stripping gears and i have no idea why. i've 3d printed replacements until i order stronger nylon ones but i have no idea why the gears keep stripping?
That's quite odd, normally you only have trouble stripping gears out when you go up on the spring load. I'm at a bit of a loss here. But if it were mine I would double check to make sure that everything in the gearbox is lined up correctly and turns freely without the motor in. You might also check to make sure that nothing is catching/hanging up on the plunger assembly as it goes forward. If you like , send me a few pics over to Project.Nerf.2.0@Gmail.com. I'll take a look and see if anything jumps out at me, as far as problems go................ Chris
Mine doesn’t work for some reason. The motor works but gun won’t work. I’m guessing a trigger or something
Does it run when you pull the trigger? If not it’s probably a bad safety switch. Also I have seen a ton of them not run due to corrosion on the battery terminals.
how fiesable would it be to increase the size of the plunger tube assembly (length and or width)? What kind of power increase would it yield? ie. a theoretcle volume increase of 20% would have what X% end result. Is there sufficent space within the shell for said volume upgrade or would shell mod be required (as i suspect)?
I'm not really sure what kind of power increase you would get, but I have seen expanded plunger retailiators that seem to shoot a mile. I think you are correct you would probably have to do some shell cutting. If I was going to have a go at it, I would expand the tubes width. doing length will interfere with the catch mechanism. It would be a long and interesting project, but it could be done.
thank you.One more question occured tome in the wee hours of 0-dark-30,related to the electric mods iv seen you and others do. Would it be possable/practical to install a variable voltage regulator switch (ie dimmer) to motors to be decresed in there max rpm and power? Pourpous... to set the max fps of your favoriate blaster so that you could use it at events with various fps limits without changing anything except a setting. I hope that made sense.
I have seen that done actually, I myself have never done it. You'd have to use PMW ( pulse width modulation ) to control the motor speed with a potentiometer that way. Iambobolol, did it with his khaos pistol build. Here's the link check it out, you might be able to get an idea of what he used. ua-cam.com/video/_QqOo08QIu8/v-deo.html
................................Chris
How do you get the brass in, mine is stuck halfway through. Plz help
You have to really take your time with the brass, and the drilling. Often you can get the brass started in the barrel and then it gets stuck. In that case , I remove the brass and do some more drilling , or sanding. A nifty trick I like to use, is to sharpen up a scrap piece of brass with an exacto, and use it to remove any extra materiel from inside the barrel. Just keep working at it slow and steady, you'll get it....................Chris
How much would it cost to buy that stampede from u that u moded
Wow, that one in particular sold a long time ago out of my Etsy shop. I'd have to look it up in my records to even begin to guess.
I could even send u a stampede
I really wanna know how to mod but I always break them: ( can I please get some help? I'd love a reply from anyone who actually knows how to mod
Well, I'm Glad to help out if I can. Where do you seem to be going wrong with them? Let me know and we'll go from there.
Project Nerf I open up a gun and when I need to put it back together it won't catch or fire: (
Keep in mind a spring blaster I don't wanna mod any thing with wires
@@harveybarton1612 Sorry to resurrect a long dead thread, but usually catch issues mean that the reset spring for the catch is either missing or isn't correctly seated. The catch spring should be sitting on a post atop the catch and should be under pressure again when you close up the blaster again. If your catch spring is missing, you can replace it with a spring from a old click pen cut down.
I have a stampede. I wanna ask you a question if that's okay with you. My stampede is pretty trash. It shoots darts about 3 feet away from the barrel with no real power in it and I don't think its the batteries. Therefore, I have plans which is to mod the gun. I was thinking of taking it apart, removing the air filter, padding and removing air spaces on the plunger stick like you did, and hooking up a new battery onto the stock battery connectors because the batteries are a pain. can you tell me how this sounds and if you think this will make the blaster any blaster. than k you for your time.
That sounds like a good plan to me. If it is shooting so poorly , I would also very carefully check to see if the plunger head is cracked, or the main O ring is dry rotted. If you need any help along the way just shoot me a mail, and I'll be happy to help....................................... Chris
I recently modded my stampede however I have been having major issues, I didn't do a rewrite however I did snip and solder together the leads from the safety switch so it is always on. I also put a stronger spring in there and put hot glue in the little air hole on the plunger head. The problem i am having is that the darts hardly get out of the barrel, and it almost seems like the plunger retracts before the dart can fire so it gets stuck on the dart gate. If you know what the problem may be please help, and if you need me to make a video I can.
Pretty sure I can Help you out. Often When an upgrade spring goes in a Stampede, It cycles improperly. The extra spring load causes the plunger to release just a hair too soon. Generally resulting in the dart just barely getting out the barrel, or getting stuck in the dart door. Is the AR still in?
If you upgrade the catch spring as well as the plunger return spring it normally solves the issue. If not shoot me a mail, over too Project.Nerf.2.0 @Gmail.com and well go from there..................................... Chris
Project Nerf you were right it was the ar it's shooting fine now I was worried it was going to be something major I was missing
Glad we could help out. :) If you have any more questions you know where to find us.
Nerf on Thomas !!!!.................. Chris
nice tutorial, getting my stampede in a week, cant wait to mod, btw if i add more Cell lipo battery like lets say a 5, only my firing speed increases right? Not my actual range/power of shot correct?
Yes, if you add more voltage it will only increase the fire rate. The power in your stampede is based on how strong your spring is and how good the air seal is throughout the system. It can be a delicate balance, I would recommend starting with lighter spring loads and lower voltages. Then increase them gradually until you get the overall performance you are looking for. All the best.......................................Chris
Thank you, subbed and liked, really good channel
Can the Stampede take a Retaliator spring?
The stampede spring is much larger and longer then a Retaliator spring. I'm almost certain it's the same as the Mega Magnus, might be a hair shorter.
@@projectnerf7920 Ok thanks
No problem!.................................... Chris
I have the 20 $ metal gear set from nfstrike and a 9 kg spring
What lipo could i use
The stock motor can easily handle a 3s, but you may need to go to a 4s using a 9kg spring load.
Um help me, I cracked the area of where you cut the breech, I need this thing to work, I spent to much money on it
Are you doing a brass breech? if so it's no big deal, when you install the brass, the crack wont matter at all, as the plastic part is really only a holder/guide at that point............. Chris
I got a Nerf Stampede that does not work.... I am trying to just get it to work. Does anyone know if the circuitry on the motor is essential?
If you mean the board on the back of the motor, then no you don't need it. But you will have to remove it and solder the wires directly to the motor tabs. However I will say that in my experience I have never seen one go bad. The 2 most common causes of a no running stampede are, 1st, a corroded battery tray/springs that it touches when it's in the blaster. 2nd a bad switch somewhere inside, it could be any of them. The mag safety, the jam door safety ect ect. If I was you I would start with those 2 things before I started gutting the internals.......................... Chris
Project Nerf Thanks for the help, however, I checked both the contacts and they were both in very good condition. I also discarded the damaged switches, and it still did not work. I think that it might have been assembled wrong... the white gear teeth strip on the bottom of the spring tube might have been put in backwards...
I have a piece with the number A5N on it...it looks like it would slide back and forth like the rear catch does... very similar shape, too... I can’t make out where it goes on the video...
Nevermind. Found it. Hidden under the orange baseplate at the very bottom of the gun.
Okay, If you want to shoot me a video or some pics over to my regular mail, Project.Nerf.2.0@Gmail.com. We'll see if we can work it out together............................... Chris
Thank you this video was very helpful!
You are very welcome. Stay tuned we have a lot more great stuff coming up soon................ Chris
Project Nerf I will
Project Nerf And also can you pleas give me a link of your battery
That particular blaster was wired for 2s lipo. The one on screen is a 2200mah, 60c 120c burst. I like to use big batteries in my stampedes, just because you have so much room to put one. But pretty much any good sized 2s will do, doesn't have to be anything real specific.
Thanks
What do u think about using trustfires rather than a lipo
Actually , in a Stampede it's okay. The single motor doesn't require the current, that lipos can deliver. But IMRs would probably be a better choice, even though there expensive.
What is the maximum voltage and current in a stock stampede????
I'm not real sure about the current, though it's not much on the stock system. It runs on 9 volts , but with the board and resistance in the system, the motor only gets around 7.5 to 8.
@Project Nerf
What micro switch and gauge of wire did you use?
On most of my builds, I use 18 awg silicone insulated wire, and 15A micro switches. Which has always worked out well for me. But on the Stamp, there is plenty of room to use 16 gauge and perhaps even 14.
@@projectnerf7920 Thanks!
the stampede is also my favorite nerf gun
The Stamp has a special place in my heart as well.
you didnt give us a firing test so i dont know how fast or efficient the stampede is
Due to the video being 20 minute long, I elected to not put the firing test segment in. The blaster chronoed out at 91 fps avg and 6.5 darts per second on a 4s lipo.
ok and great video
Thanks so much, and stay tuned, we have some great stuff coming up for the new year!
Caydi Videos spanish
Chrono numbers?
This one was hitting the mid to upper eighty's on average and shooting a little faster than 6 darts per second.
A good way to understand the system if you don’t. It’s just motorized slam-fire!
You are spot on, for lack of better terms that is exactly what a Stampede is.
Wtf am i even doing here i should be studying i dont even have a stampede
Well, just think of how ready you will be to mod it, when you do get one. Much love my friend................................. Chris
All that and you didn't even fire a single round through it very disappointed
Looking back I am too my friend, I see some of my old videos and cringe, wondering what the heck I was thinking at the time. Lol