How to Jump Start an Ioniq 5/6, Kia EV6/EV9 or Genesis EV | Be Prepared Just in Case
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- ☎️Hyundai US Roadside Assistance: 1-800-243-7766
☎️Kia US Roadside Assistance: 1-800-333-4542
☎️Genesis US Roadside Assistance: 1-844-436-4333
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☎️Hyundai US Roadside Assistance: 1-800-243-7766
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As usual, you have provided great information.🎉
Tip: keep the jumper in the frunk (not the trunk in back, which is hard to get to if you don’t have power).
We’ve been carrying a 12V battery jumper since we purchased our I5 early in 2022. So far we have not had to use it.
We were stranded in the middle of the night in a parking lot with a dead 12V in my 2023 Ioniq Limited AWD, and this video saved us! I bought the jumper pack a year ago after watching this, and tonight the car finally died. Pulled up your video and followed the steps to jump start the car. Thank you for making this!
I had my first dead 12v a few weeks ago, had a jump start (Capacitor booster did not do the trick) and brought it to dealer, announced that the 12V was dead and replaced it.
BTW, despite the dead battery AND the battery replacement, my total lifetime mileage and consumption was retained.
I'm a Tesla Model Y owner. We don't have this exact problem, but the 12V battery dying in any EV is problematic for the reasons you stated. Also, it seems like recovery in a non-Tesla is a bit easier because of the manual hood release. In a Tesla, that process is a bit trickier because it's only on the screen. And if that's dead because the 12V is dead, you see my point. It's possible, just trickier. Anyways, great video. You seemed to cover everything. Nicely done.
Getting to the 12V on my Model X is a bit of a chore even when I know how to do all the motions. For somebody who hasn't done it before it would be daunting for most people. Having said that, the mobile Tesla rangers are probably better than most roadside service programs and the whole service trip and new battery are under $200 (if not covered by warranty). Porsche is better but you also end up paying about $500 for a battery swap.
If people are apprehensive about being stranded a trip to AutoZone or local mechanic or even AAA can do a quick battery check around the 3 year mark to interdict failures.
I have a 2023 IONIQ 5 LIMITED with 34,000 miles (owned new for 14 months) and finally my battery died. I have jumped it in the last four days about 8 times and 3 times the battery was completely dead. Using a NOCO GBX55 (1750 amp) portable charger I have a Dealer appointment in 3 days to get the new battery before my 36,000 warranty runs out.
Happened to my Ioniq5 2023 model 2 weeks ago : Parked the car for 3 days in an underground parking at 11% SoC and it died. When I revived it, SoC was 9%… so don’t get too close to the limit (I had no choice).
Thanks! One thing some people don't realize is that batteries can self-discharge, even (especially) jumper packs. Be sure you charge the charger several times a year. You don't want to learn about this when you need it
You always take one so you can show us what’s going on! Your amazing for us
This is fantastic. I was about to pull the trigger on a 2024 Ioniq 6, then freaked when I read the Reddits on depleted 12v. Video puts me at ease. Going to Amazon that jumper cable. 👍
I like the NOCO brand jump packs. I haven't used mine to jump a car yet, but it seems sturdy and well-made, survived two summers and one winter so far, and has a built-in flashlight and USB output as well.
I have 2023 Ioniq6. Even after all the software updates, I was having trouble with the auto door unlock not always working when I walked up to the car. The dealer replaced the 12V battery saying they had a "bad batch" of them. It solved the problem. More recently, when I parked my car for week-and-half, main battery went down about 10%. After seeing your video, I wonder if my battery problem will reappear in a few months.
12v died today in my 2023 HI5 Limited. ~10K miles. SOC was 97% when it happened. Complimentary towing via Hyundai Roadside to dealership. Ordering a jumper today.
Great, helpful video. I remember when those 12V battery jumpers used to come on wheels and weigh 200 lbs. Technology is great. I have one in my truck and "do" need to get one and carry it in my Ioniq 5 (adding to my Amazon Christmas Wish List).
My BM2 arrived and is now installed, so I feel at ease. But this begs the question: Why is the current voltage/health of the 12v battery not an option in the car navigation panel options or at the very least in Bluelink?! I mean, this bit of info is vital to the functionality of the car!!
Great video. I've had to do this a few times. Last year before I had the issue when Hyundai couldn't figure out what was going on. The latest time is when I was away for 48 hours and the car was dead after 30 hours (blue link was't responding). All software was up to date. I drive the car every day so not sure if it just wasn't sitting long enough for it to die. I ended up putting a BMS monitor onto the 12v and noticed draining regularly. Mavis tested the battery for free and the battery was OK but was draining more than the normal amount. So, like last time I reset my blue link password and it's been OK since. Hyundai will still look at it on my next visit.
My 2022 EV6 started having 12V issues this past summer. Dealer replaced inside 120V outlet that was coming on by itself, I never used it. Picked up car from dealer on a Wednesday, that night, had to jump it 2X, (I do have a portable charger, fortunately). Took back to dealer, the 12V battery finally failed test. They replaced 12V battery, no issues since! 🤞
Ugh. Finally got hit by the dead 12v (at 14 months / 24,000 km). The power bank battery booster is definitely a good frunk accessory.
Literally happened to me this morning, while it's sitting in my garage and plugged in to charge on schedule during the day. Not sure how Hyundai let this happen so frequently under a variety of normal conditions.
Fwiw: I have noticed my I5 doesn't charge the 12v when plugged in, regardless of whether the traction battery is charging. The 12v charging will commence after I unplug it and then open and close the car door (which must trigger the 12v by illuminating the display). At least thats been my observation so far.
I really appreciate this guy fr like this a real problem and I went thru exactly what he stated Thankyou !!!!!!!
Yeah..2024 Ioniq 5. Two months old with around 2100 miles on it. She was dead in the driveway yesterday AM. Nothing odd about it's usage the day or two before. It was driven just the night before. Sometime overnight it died. At least the jumpstart does work(Yeah..I had heard the horror stories and already had a portable jumper in the front trunk.). The only thing we noticed is that we did lock the car with the bluelink app the night before. We rarely do anything with the app. Plus I rarely ever see the orange light on the dash on. Saw it when we first bought it..don't see it all anymore.
Make sure when they shut the door that they still have their keyfob..😊
Currently going through this… will attempt to jumpstart it tomorrow
Corbin...my 2022 EV6 ICCU just died. I charged the car to 100% and was about to start a 700mile trip to SC ftom CT. I hope sotting at 100 % doesnt degreade my battery too much.
The first time it happened to me was about the three month mark and I had charged to 80%( still plugged in) . 12 volt was dead as a door nail. Called Hyundai and even though I asked if they are sending someone knowledgeable of EV’s, they didn’t. He had no idea how to get it in neutral or pull it out of my garage from the back(I drove in). I suggested maybe we could jump the small 12 volt and he said sounds good. I used my garage charger and instead of just putting it in neutral I started it and drove to the dealer. Edit: This was in my 2020 Kona electric when I got it. Got a booster like yours and had to use it several times. Has not happened in close to a year now.
Thanks for this video. Our EV9 is less than two weeks old and I woke up to a dead 12V battery.
Good freaking lord. How have they not figured this out after 3 years!
Nice wheels and thanks for all your help and info !
Literally happened to my i6 today. Thank you
Did you have a jumper to use or did you need to call for assistance?
This happened to me with my 22 SE. After dying 6 times the dealer replaced my 12v under warranty. I did not ever lose my trip computer data.
Had an Ioniq 5 since feb 2022.. not battery issues so far.
My Genesis GV70 Electrified seems to have just experienced this. Coincidentally, happened on the day I received a recall notice regarding the Integrated Charging Control Unit and software.
Thankfully I haven't had this problem in my EV6 but it is very useful to see what to do
I have seen posts in some Facebook groups that plugging in the V2L adapter forces the main battery to charge the 12v. Is there any truth in this?
Note for Ioniq 6 owners, the mechanical key is not stowed in the smart key, it's the separate little rectangle in a plastic holder attached to your smart key's key ring. No, I don't think this is an improvement, but it's what we've got.
The key fob is honestly my biggest gripe with my Ioniq 6. The fob is so massive and they couldn't fit the mechanical key in there?! It's an atrocious design.
Very well done, but I have a couple questions. You show the jump starter being hooked up, then the hood is closed, you start the car, then go back to disconnect the jump starter. Did not show reopening the hood to do that. Do you leave the jumper connected, close the hood and start the car? How long does the jumper need to be connected prior to starting the car?
This is interesting, Living in Australia I have an Ioniq 5 purchased in 2022. I've had 2 software updates thats not included the Brake light update and iPedal mode. Curious as to when we will get the update on the Brake Light Logic and the iPedal mode operation logic update.
Its my understanding that going to utlity mode will also charge the battery from the traction batttery, so you could do that after getting started
In the European models, we don't have the charging indicator lamp on top of the dashboard, so we are left in the dark. ;-)
And btw twisting the physical key anti-clockwise.
July 2022 EV6 has had no issues. But we rarely drop below 30%.
Helpful! Thank you for sharing!
Waiting to hear of the 2024s have this problem fixed... My pure speculation is that it's a onboard electronics hardware problem. They're very power inefficient, hence the constant charge/discharge. You can watch the electronics power usage on the ev status screen. It's nearly 400w.
I added a battery monitor device connected to my 12V battery and bluetooth connected to my iphone which allows me to look at the SOC of my 12v battery anytime. Very low drain, so it won't run the battery down.
sounds like a good idea!
brand? links?
Which VCU update includes that logic change? I don't see it listed in the brake light logic update TSB. Is there a new VCU update we should get installed?
Great video outlining this issue. From what I have read, EVs are hard on 12V batteries since they do not draw high amperage at any given time. ICE vehicles demand high amperage during starting which helps clear up residue buildup on the anode/cathode. I believe Tesla is moving towards 48v lithium batteries in their new architecture.
UA-cam channel Project Farm does testing of things. They did battery jumpers a while back. You may want to search it out and see what was tested and what they thought.
My IONIQ 5 year 2022 in Norway have not had any issues with the 12w
I was literally just wondering this yesterday if i could use my battery charger on an EV
Great information thank you
Do they not have the internal 'jumper' like the Hybrid Ioniq's
I always thought you're supposed to hook up the negative first, and remove the negative last.
Had this happen 4 times; 1st time jump started by Hyundai Roadside Assistance, other 2 times by my portable charger. Brought it back to dealer twice, they, of course, "couldn't duplicate it," found no problem, sent me home. The 4th time they repeatedly tested the battery and replaced it. Got home with it fine, went away for 2 weeks, came home and it was dead. Wouldn't recharge easily. Started again reluctantly this morning, watching and seeing. Unsure if I should have to bring it in again. Not willing to have to start my car this way all the time. Pretty sure they'll void the warranty if I buy an aftermarket battery instead. Advice?
My 2022 Ioniq 5 12v battery died when my wife went to start up the car when going to leave the ferry. Yuk! The battery was 2 years and 2 months old. Hyundai warranty is for 2 years only.......did they already know there was going to be a problem?
The new battery I bought has a 4 year warranty....go fiqure.
I have never used their Bluelink app either and charge on the car was 50% plus.
I use the same type of Jump Starter to start my '2022 Ionic 5 Limited. It works well and when I had a problem 2 Months ago It allowed me to start my car and move it to my home charger and then drive to the dealership. They initially tested the 12 Volt battery as defective then upon re-testing determined that it was not. They struggled with the electrical system for over a week but were unable to find out was was causing a "Low 12 Volt Battery" warning to be displayed repeatedly. Eventually they did replace the 12 Volt, and all electrical problems were solved. It was still under warrantee so it was covered.
When I do have to replace the 12 Volt Battery in the future, do you have a recommended type? Is the Lead Acid the best or would a Gel or Lithium battery be better or safer? Thanks for your channel. It is invaluable .
If you go below 25% the 12V is not being recharged. I was just told that by Hyundai headquarters in Irvine
Hi, can you use the inside AC outlet and use a battery booster?
I'm not sure whether this applies to Hyundai motor group vehicles, please comment below if someone knows, but Nissan recommends disconnecting the charging cable from the car before boosting the 12V battery if the 12V has gone flat while the car is plugged in. And definitely don't boost it while the car is actually charging. How you do that (if the cable is locked in the socket) depends on the vehicle. First, stop the charge, if it is charging, via the charging station if possible, or by pulling the breaker, then unplug the car. In the Genesis GV60 and Ioniq 6 there's an emergency release behind a round cover in the trunk on the passenger side. In the GV80, it's under the hood since the charge port is front mounted in that. I haven't looked at the EV6, EV9, or Ioniq 5 yet.
This is about two weeks late to help me. But managed my way through it.
new wheels?! I'm new to the channel, but I can't seem to find a video about your aftermarket wheels
Coming out soon!
Hi, I have an 2023 Ionic 5 , which I bought because of your great videos, problem, the car yesterday wouldn’t go into gear, checked local forums only suggestion was get out of the car, restart etc, it didn’t help. Called the AA (UK ) after couple of hours it decided it would go in to gear. Car had 55% charge. I would be very grateful for your thoughts. John.
I am having the same problem with shifting out of neutral. Hyundai claims they don't know about the problem. Dealer can do nothing unless problem happens in their presence. Everything else is working but the problem occurs infrequently and randomly so I can't get any help from the dealer. Has your problem been solved by charging the 12v battery?
Hey Ioniq guy - what state of charge should you keep the car at? lots of info and misinfo... I have capped mine at 80%... but not sure if this is a good idea? Some have said they should charge to 100 at least once a week
The manual suggests charging to 100% roughly once per month. This top balances the battery cells. But for longevity, keeping the battery maxed at 80% is the sweet spot.
Not sure if I missed a video. How are those Martian tires working? I’m near time for replacement and I’m super curious if it rides any smoother. I drive a ton for work so also curious if it makes you loose much range.
My 2022 SEL battery was so dead jumping it didn’t help. Had to remove and replace it myself because I was already at 45k. Boggles my mind how a battery dies in only 1.5 years.
With all the accessories you are making and checking, is there something to replace the USB-A with USB-C so it looks like OEM?
This would be the simplest solution: amzn.to/3TpUTM7
@TheIoniqGuy thanks for that, however I was wondering if you are aware of a more permanent and OEM like solution without adapters. Do you know if there is a part to replace tge factory USB-A with USB-C connectors?
@@IoannisAnifantakisI believe the Kia EV6 has usb-c ports. I'd guess they slot right in if you can find the part numbers
@@oyvindrepvik I asked the dealership if the ioniq 6 or new kona usb-c would fit, and they said ‘no’, but I am not sure they really looked into it…
@@IoannisAnifantakis I doubt they checked.
I would like to plug in my 5 to my level 2 every evening but I only want it to charge at or below 30% . Is this possible. ?
No that’s on you to plug in if it’s below 30% SOC
The drive efficiency data etc is lost only if the battery is disconnected for a long time. Nothing is lost if the disconnection is just short.
Hmm mines gone after 15 minutes disconnected
@@TheIoniqGuy Now I see what you mean. The average consumption reading is gone, but the accumulated miles/km and hour total remains. Actually the average consumption shown is not the average over that same total of distance and hours. It’s just a recent average. And this figure is used by the car to calculate the displayed range. Which would not make sense if it wasn’t based on relatively recent consumption.
I'm assuming there is no way to get into the car if it's dead when you are using digital phone key or a key card, correct?
That’s correct
There are some specialized roadside assistance staff who are equipped with the skills and tools to pick the lock, so you're not necessarily completely stuck if your mechanical key is inaccessible, but depending on where you are there might not be anyone available quickly or nearby. When calling, definitely say that you don't have the mechanical key if you need this service and tell them which model of car you have so that they can send the right people, properly equipped. Not all companies train people to do this either. I don't know whether or not Hyundai's roadside assistance is one of them, but anecdotally, there are some companies that do.
Can you boost it with a Gas Car battery?
Yes, if the voltage matches (typically12v).
Stupid question but how do you open the power liftgate when the 12v dies. When mine died I just climbed in bc I was in a rush but couldn’t get it to open w the button
You can’t open it if the battery is dead so I suggest keeping a booster in the front trunk instead
All the following apply to Canadian models, either 2023 or 2024. I haven't looked at other ones in detail.
In the Ioniq 6, there's an emergency mechanical cable pull located behind a small cover on the side of the left seat close to the floor. You have to open the rear driver's side door and lever the cover open (the manual suggests using the mechanical key - Section 5-59) then grab the loop and pull. This unlatches the trunk, and then you can manually lift it open. It might take some force to unlatch. The manual suggests sticking something through the loop, like a screwdriver, to get a better grip if it's too difficult.
In an Electrified Genesis G80, there's a trunk release lever behind a cover behind the centre armrest in the rear. You need to pull it, then reposition it according to the picture in the manual that I find difficult to describe, so better to look at it one's self. This unlatches the trunk and you can manually open it.
The Genesis G60 and G70 mechanical emergency trunk release is in the trunk, presumably because you can fold the seats and get at things that way from inside the passenger compartment, unlike the Ioniq 6 where the folding buttons for the rear seats are in the trunk. In the G60, you essentially lie in the trunk and stick a thin flat object, like a key, into the gap at the bottom of the tailgate where the latch is and push the latch in the direction of the arrow, which unlatches the trunk. Similarly, in the G70, there's a panel you remove in front of the latch and a lever you push to the right.
I don't have information for the EV6 or Ioniq 5 at the moment, but if I get the chance to look them up, I'll add a comment with that information.
Adding to the previous comment, the EV6 and Ioniq 5 both use a slot with pictorial instructions similar to the G60 on the inside of the liftgate. Stick a thin object like a key in the slot, then use it to push the latch in the direction of the arrow to unlatch the liftgate. The EV9 manual isn't on Kia Canada's website yet so I don't have that information.
As an aside, from a user perspective, I much prefer the approach used in my family's 2013 car with a power trunk, which was to have a key opening you could use on the outside of the trunk, like manual trunks have. Depending on what's in your trunk, it's more difficult, and could be impractical if you have mobility issues, to get to the mechanical latch release used in some of the Hyundai/Kia/Genesis vehicles. Moreover, it's got decades of history so it's familiar to lots of people, making it easier to use.
i'm having a dead battery relatively often on my MY23 Ioniq 5 (EU, latest software). When i don't drive the car for a few days and leave the charger plugged in, it will die at some point. i.e. if i don't drive on the weekend, very short trip on Monday and again not drive on Tuesday, my battery is dead on Wednesday. Hyundai can't seem to find a root cause for this, but i'm sure it's related to being plugged into the charger. I cannot reproduce the issue when not plugged in and following the same pattern.
Yes that is a well known
I have the same issue. Works fine with Kia/Tesla on the same charger, so it's a Hyundai-specific issue
Noticed as well if I left it plugged in overnight the 12v will not charge. Only after I unplug it, and even then only after I open the car door and close it. Tho now the yellow indicator light is on all the time, which can't be good.
My I5 12v dies if connected to charger for >12hours after full HV battery. Hyundai has NO clue whats wrong. Didn't have this issue with E-Niro or Tesla on the same charger.
Edit: Have latest ICCU update.
From what I have seen on videos, it seems that Hyundai is having more problems than Telsa. Am I right or from what you know Telsa is having as many problems. I am planning to get a Hyundai for my next car but seems because it is a new car is having many developing car problems. I am not being negative just wondering. I like Telsa cars but I am getting really sick of him thinking he knows everything.
Tesla has their own set of problems that can be straight up dangerous. Look up Tesla phantom braking problems. Tesla no longer uses radar sensors and have switched to a completely camera based system and sometimes it thinks shadows are other vehicles and it’ll slam on the brakes on the highway. I’ve also heard about issues with the front control arms basically breaking and the front wheel more or less just breaking away from the car.
@@TheIoniqGuy thanks for replying to my question. We hear so much about Telsa but little about Hyundai. Heard about the phantom braking problem before, they say they fix the problem(?) I think your channel is the only one that keeps us informed about Hyundai problems and fixes. Keep up the good work!
I haven’t heard that the phantom braking problem is solved yet. Thanks!
I would be more concerned if I were inside the car, car catches fire and takes out the 12v battery power. Then my door does not open!? Recommend studying up on how to escape these cars in an emergency!
The Ioniq 5 has manual door releases the same as any modern car. But just like most other cars today, there is no user accessible manual lock/unlock
Unfortunately on the GV60, the emergency key is a physically separate key. It’s crazy having to carry that around if it can be opened normally by phone, watch, face id etc. Tesla have got this right - they don’t have physical keys and you access the 12v by attaching a small battery to hidden terminals on the front bumper which then releases the bonnet.
My 12V battery is now so run down that the car can be started only once. If switched off again without driving much, it won’t come back. The battery voltage drops to 6V. At that voltage neither of the two boosters that I have bring the car back to life. The only way to get it to run again is to connect the 12V battery to a proper battery charger (while disconnecting the car) and charge the battery back to a healthy level - which doesn’t take long because the battery has hardly any capacity left. I’m getting my battery exchanged next week but just a warning to everyone that when push comes to shove, these boosters are actually useless.
This is like saying a spare tire is useless because you can't drive thousands of miles on it. The point of the booster is to get you to a location where you can buy a new 12V battery (Walmart, Costco, any auto parts store) to fix the actual problem.
@@keegan854 Read what I wrote. It doesn't get me anywhere. It doesn't start the car.
A 12v battery reading 6v usually is just toast (e.g. bad cells). It's hard to believe a charger could even meaningfully help, although this may be harder to tell on an EV since the current demand is nothing like that of an ICE starter.
You should disconnect the HV battery connection before touching the battery in any way. You could risk coming in contact with 800V.
The 12V get's power from a DC-DC converter, not the 800V battery. There's no possibility of coming in contact with 800V by touching the battery terminals.
It's dead... great intro
wonder if the new ones come with lithium batts or dumb dumb lead acid
They still have lead acid for 2024 but maybe with the 2025 refresh we’ll see a switch finally
Lead acid is not that dumb in this application as they love to be fully charged at all times. Lithium prefers to be around 50%.
@@TheIoniqGuy when I monitor my 12 V percent of charge it seems to be hovering around 80% a lot. Once in a while it hits 90.. I parked it at the airport for 10 days and the battery was down to 67% state of charge. I wish I had checked it before I parked the car but is that a sign something isn’t going well or is that normal to have a charge level on the 12 V that low after sitting 12 days in spite of the main battery being at about 50%? 2023 SEL AWD with 8000 miles. All software updates have been done.
Lithium iron phosphate also prefers to be fully charged but can also tolerate being fully discharged unlike lead acid