I'm a total novice at using a power saw of any type, but I got this one a few years ago and have yet to take it out of the box. I guess I'll get hubby's help. This video will be very helpful. I now wish I'd had shop class as a female several decades ago. Retirement goals.
Thank you for this video. I've got a little older version of this same saw, and for years it's not been cutting all the way through the material, so I've been having to shim every piece away from the fence just to cut all the way through. I feel like such an idiot now. I had no idea there was that little stop to adjust the cut depth. If I hadn't run across your video, I'd probably be spending the next several years having to shim every piece of material I cut. Thanks again.
Ryan Lamp I'm glad to know that this video helped you out. Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Wow Ive had this saw for 3 years and never knew about the stop bolt to set the saw depth for dados/rabbits! I had a "oooohhhhh duhhh" moment when I saw it
Thank you very much for all the tips you showed on your video. This will definitely help me a lot for the projects I am planning to make. Much appreciated.
Excellent video. I found it over on the Harbor Freight site. That seems to be an excellent traveling mitre saw: if I get some time I'll pick it up today so that I can cut the vinyl planks at one shot instead of always needing to flip them over and eyeball the second cut.
You are certainly welcome. BTW, you might find these videos helpful. This guy is the Grand Master of Wood Working: ua-cam.com/channels/xXQSE48NYbRQB34tjJQtYw.htmlvideos
Came here looking for review, but instead I came away with chock-full of tips. I think this is a better review than just pointing out the spec sheets, which we can just read off the product info anyway. Definitely going to save this in my playlist. Thank you for a very nicely done tips and tricks which makes for a better review!
Hey Sedition - Congratulations on your new Miter Saw. I know you are going to enjoy using it as I did. Thanks for stopping by and commenting. And good luck on your projects. Cheers!
@@WorkMateGuy Fun part is gonna be keeping my wife away from it. She loves woodworking too, and you know how wives think..."What's mine is mine and what's yours is mine." I need a secret woodworking bunker.
Thanks for your upload. It helped me a lot, for example, how to adjust blade for angle cut. I do have a similar saw. Overall, a great instructional video.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade, it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
@@WorkMateGuy No i do not have have the same brand miter saw... I recently bought a "PORTER-CABLE 10-in 15-Amp Single Bevel Laser Folding (Non sliding) Compound Miter Saw" .... I am a novice at using miter saws so i check out You tube and learn from posters like you who post informative videos on Miter saws. This is the link to the saw i have. It was basic, inexpensive and folds for storage in a small space: www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-10-in-15-Amp-Single-Bevel-Laser-Folding-Compound-Miter-Saw/1000212097
Great video. My blade guard doesn't come all the way down like yours? The picture on the box looks the same. Is there an adjustment or is it "normal" that a couple inches aren't covered when its in the upright position?
Hi Thomas - I don't have a video for securing it directly to a Workmate. I typically connect a 2'x 4' sheet of plywood to my Workmate to increase the working area and then attach my power tools to the plywood.
Hmmm... Good Question! It has been a while since I had this saw and they probably have a newer model that will do so in one cut. I have had some warped 4x4 that I had to make a second cut to shave off the last bit on another saw.
Appreciate your video! Nice job. I went and bought one of these after watching you and I'm confused...it looks like I can't stand my 4.5" skirting skirting upright to cut it...Where would I go to see these limitations for different saw sizes?
You are certainly welcome. The cutting capacity for most saws can be found on the specifications "tab" or "section" on the website for that tool. Cheers!
Hey William - There are pros and cons to each. A miter stand would be easier to set up and handle longer work pieces. If you will be cutting a lot of longer 2x4s that may be the way to go. If you are working on smaller pieces and need to have a number of measuring devices or plans on hand then the bench can be more convenient. I hope this helps. Cheers!
I have mine on my workbench in a small shed. Any long board cuts i use my skillsaw. I wish I had a stand though. If you have the room and a workbench that isn't crazy deep, I'd say get a stand
I saw a lot of things wrong in this video. First, there are many different versions of this miter saw and replacement parts are mostly unavailable and not interchangeable. My biggest issues are with accuracy of the cuts and the hold-down clamps. That only one is sent with these saws is so bad. You should always try to use 2 of them and if you can't, you shouldn't buy this miter saw. Get your smartphone out and check out the available parts for the model number on the box. The hold-down clamp is the one item you will probably need to order. Some of the newer clamps do have replacements, but they won't fit in back (the vertical post is 0.6" diameter and the hole for it is 0.58" - if you have a metal lathe, you can easily turn down the mild steel rod, but it shouldn't have been necessary) and the horizontal piece is too long, so the clamp extends either off the saw edge or gets in the way of the motor. The new clamps are tool long horizontally and the old ones too puny. My motor is on the other side, but I saw what appeared in this video that the clamp got in the way when tilting the blade to the left for the 45 degree cut. The fence, which is moveable, will get cut if you don't take care to move it out of the way before you try cutting that 45 degree angle. Tightening the clamps tends to torque the fence away from you. Thin pieces can slide under the fence. Cutting any work piece that is longer than its width is very, very hazardous. Fortunately, you were able to clamp it down, but without it, the saw blade could grab it and throw it across the room, usually away from you. This will happen so quickly, ripping the piece from your hand, that you will not even see it. Cross-cutting anything on a miter saw beyond its capacity (about 13") is a losing game because the blade is never perfectly square against the fence and the two sides of your work piece never perfectly parallel, which means that your cuts will imperfectly intersect when you flip the piece to cut other opposite side. Those kinds of pieces are better suited for a table saw or a router (a flush-trim bit against a straight edge). When cutting long, heavy pieces in any miter saw, those pieces will require supports to be located at least 1/2 the distance from the blade to the end of the work pieces. Imagine the situation of cutting 2 feet off of a 10 foot 2x12. Even if you have the work supports from HF (and I have 3 of them), you might not have the room or space to use them to support the pieces. Yes, you can clamp them in place on the saw, but the leverage/stress on the clamps will tend to rip out the threads in the horizontal piece of the clamps. This is a common reason that the clamps end up being nonfunctional after a while. Replacement clamps, if available, cost about $10 but they will likely not fit your model miter saw. If you have a drill press, a 10 mm drill bit and a 12 mm-1.75 tap, you can re-drill the soft metal in your old clamp's horizontal piece and re-tap it for the threads in the new hold-down clamp. If the indent at a particular degree mark is not accurate, you can rotate the saw to the correct measurement, but you have to do that each time and it's a nuisance. Having to do that is a consequence of poor quality control, practically a HF trademark. I've had 2 of these saws with the same model number and there is inconsistency between them. Other than the cost, there is no advantage to the HF miter saws and since the pandemic, the advantage of even that has mostly disappeared due to price increases and the subsequent disappearance of discount coupons. Don't let making them blue and calling them "Hercules" (or whatever) instead of "Chicago Electric" fool you into thinking you're getting a quality tool. These are all "Made in China" and you know what that means.
Hey Atticus Draco - At the time I purchased this saw it did not come with a blade. The name on the blade is worn off, but I don't see it on the HF site as it has a gold coloring to it. It is a 60 tooth blade.
How does your saw cut. I'm new to woodworking. I plan on getting one. I've about 2 years the saw starts having problems and ppl can't get replacement parts.
Unfortunately, my older model doesn't have any obvious was to true the horizontal angle to 90 deg. I've tried every adjustment I can find and a 90 deg cut still shows at 3 deg on the guide. Owners manual is no help at all and UA-cam doesn't show my model either.
@@WorkMateGuy After two weeks of watching YT vids and loosening nuts and bolts here and there on my saw. It took me that long to figure out that the angle indicator was not the indicator of square. Finally loosened the 4 bolts on the guide to adjust to 90°.
Was really looking at this to replace my makita chop saw but saw kobalt 7 1/4 sliding compoubd for $99 at lowes that I think I will go with. It'll cut up to 2x8 material which is good for me. For $10 more for a decent brand though smaller I think Kobalt would be a bette4 choice.
mixwell1983 I would tend to agree with you, the Kobalt is probably a much better buy. Along with a better warranty. Thanks for stopping by and posting.
I have this same saw, and I can't get the damn thing to cut correctly. It's always off by a few degrees. I regret buying it, but I bought it many years ago for rough work, and I never really checked it back then to see if it was cutting straight. Now I'm trying to get it to be more precise and it's impossible.
Tiktaalik When you say it's off by a few degrees, are you talking about horizontally or vertically? It might be that some of the gauges are off and you need to re align???
@@WorkMateGuy Horizontally. I don't use it to make bevels. I just want a nice 90 degree cut when, say, I chop a 2 x 4 in half. I have the vertical of the blade locked down at 90, and I used a magnetic angle finder to confirm it's at 90. I have tried adjusting the fence so I get a 90, but the fence has VERY little "play" in it to adjust. So, I bore out the holes on the hex screws as much as I could to get more of a slot instead of a hole, to adjust more. Nope. That didn't work either. It's always off by several degrees no matter what. It could also be the positive stop of the miter adjust that's off, but there's no way to adjust that.
@@RCPoliComm I know I'm late but I may have a solution. If the lumber you are cutting isn't jointed, meaning, not 100% flat on the cutting surface and fence, no matter how perfect the blade is positioned won't matter. As soon as the cut piece is removed the cut will be 90° to whatever the saw is, not the wood. If working with dimensional construction lumber and perfection is required, you must prepare your lumber before making the cut by jointing 2 sides to give the lumber a perfect 90° angle to fit on the saw.
![Harbor Freight Warrior 7-1/4" Miter Saw Review [CHEAP TOOL TUESDAY EP.01]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tXMWNcz9CVo/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a total novice at using a power saw of any type, but I got this one a few years ago and have yet to take it out of the box. I guess I'll get hubby's help. This video will be very helpful. I now wish I'd had shop class as a female several decades ago. Retirement goals.
Check out this channel: www.youtube.com/@newyankeeworkshop/videos
Great tips, especially for a beginner like me. Thanks a million !
And thanks for reminding me to use safety glasses 😎
You are certainly welcome and glad to know this helped. Cheers!
Thank you for this video. I've got a little older version of this same saw, and for years it's not been cutting all the way through the material, so I've been having to shim every piece away from the fence just to cut all the way through. I feel like such an idiot now. I had no idea there was that little stop to adjust the cut depth. If I hadn't run across your video, I'd probably be spending the next several years having to shim every piece of material I cut. Thanks again.
Ryan Lamp I'm glad to know that this video helped you out. Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
I just watched another video of a guy doing that. Cheer up.
Wow Ive had this saw for 3 years and never knew about the stop bolt to set the saw depth for dados/rabbits! I had a "oooohhhhh duhhh" moment when I saw it
Glad you found it useful. Cheers!
Bless you Sir! Lots of tips and tricks I needed to make my projects as an inexperienced miter saw user!
Glad I could help! Cheers!
Thank you very much for all the tips you showed on your video. This will definitely help me a lot for the projects I am planning to make. Much appreciated.
You are most certainly welcome and good luck on your projects.
Excellent video. I found it over on the Harbor Freight site. That seems to be an excellent traveling mitre saw: if I get some time I'll pick it up today so that I can cut the vinyl planks at one shot instead of always needing to flip them over and eyeball the second cut.
Hi Stephen, glad you found this video useful. Cheers!
I'm completely new to working with wood. This was extremely helpful in my consideration of getting a miter saw. Thank you!
You are certainly welcome. BTW, you might find these videos helpful. This guy is the Grand Master of Wood Working: ua-cam.com/channels/xXQSE48NYbRQB34tjJQtYw.htmlvideos
Thanks, that was well explained and included many things other videos don't mention.
Shiroi Hana You are certainly welcome and glad to know that this has helped you out. Thanks for stopping by.
Came here looking for review, but instead I came away with chock-full of tips.
I think this is a better review than just pointing out the spec sheets, which we can just read off the product info anyway.
Definitely going to save this in my playlist.
Thank you for a very nicely done tips and tricks which makes for a better review!
You are certainly welcome and thanks for stopping by and commenting. Cheers!
You not only earned a sub, but Harbor Freight owes you a finders fee...I went up and grabbed one while it was on sale with an hour to spare.
Hey Sedition - Congratulations on your new Miter Saw. I know you are going to enjoy using it as I did. Thanks for stopping by and commenting. And good luck on your projects. Cheers!
@@WorkMateGuy Fun part is gonna be keeping my wife away from it. She loves woodworking too, and you know how wives think..."What's mine is mine and what's yours is mine."
I need a secret woodworking bunker.
Hey Sedition - Yes, I am very familiar with the thought patterns you reference. :-)
Great info. I’m planning on buying one this week. Thanks for making this video. Made some notes and ready to go to work.
Glad it was helpful! They have several new models since this video was produced... with many new features. Cheers!
good and helpful info. Thank you.
You are certainly welcome. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Simple and easy to follow. Thank you for the great vid.
Mean Green You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel.
Thanks for your upload. It helped me a lot, for example, how to adjust blade for angle cut. I do have a similar saw. Overall, a great instructional video.
Glad it helped. Thanks for stopping by.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade, it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact .
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Best review from this mitter saw, thanks for share
JManuel GBernal You are certainly welcome, and glad to know you liked the video.
Thanks for the video just bought the miter saw.
You are certainly welcome Robert. Cheers!
Very informative, thanks so much!
You are certainly welcome. Cheers!
Someone may have already mentioned this, but never use less than a 14 ga drop cord. If you are running over 25 ft, use at least a 12 ga.
Good Point Steve. Thanks for commenting. Cheers!
Great and informative video, just picked this saw up on Black Friday sale and am eager to use it!
Hey Ryan, congratulations on your new miter saw. I know you are going to enjoy using it. Cheers!
Excellent demo and tips.... Thank you.
Jay C You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel. If you don't mind me asking, do you have the same brand miter saw?
@@WorkMateGuy No i do not have have the same brand miter saw... I recently bought a "PORTER-CABLE 10-in 15-Amp Single Bevel Laser Folding (Non sliding) Compound Miter Saw" .... I am a novice at using miter saws so i check out You tube and learn from posters like you who post informative videos on Miter saws.
This is the link to the saw i have. It was basic, inexpensive and folds for storage in a small space:
www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-10-in-15-Amp-Single-Bevel-Laser-Folding-Compound-Miter-Saw/1000212097
Excellent video, thank you
You are certainly welcome and thanks for stopping by and commenting. Cheers!
Thanks for the video! I would really appreciate a tutorial on using the blade depth adjustments on this model!
Sorry Barb, I no longer have this Miter Saw. :-(
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
belidoria You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel.
this video it excellent!! Good work!
Thanks Jim and Happy New Year!
You should have more subs... great info! Thank you.
Hey Daniel - You are certainly welcome. Thanks for commenting. Cheers!
Thank you very much for this video!!
You're very welcome!
Good video tx
magic8023 Thanks, and thanks for stopping by.
Your reviews are best!
raheelhameed1 Thank you so much. Thanks for stopping by.
Great video. My blade guard doesn't come all the way down like yours? The picture on the box looks the same. Is there an adjustment or is it "normal" that a couple inches aren't covered when its in the upright position?
Thank you for video
Prestomatic FPV You are certainly welcome and welcome to my channel.
Good video. l got this saw today to replace a Craftsman 10 inch that does not slide. l could cut boards about 4 inches wide max with the Craftsman.
Congratulations on your new Miter Saw and thanks for stopping by. Cheers!
@ 8:52 Christopher Walken takes over for a few moments.Just listen.
Kenneth Hedden Well, At least you haven't said I sound like a dead comedian. Lol.
Hahahaha that's amazing
great video! do you have a video on how you secured it to you workmate? i was looking in to getting one of those
Hi Thomas - I don't have a video for securing it directly to a Workmate. I typically connect a 2'x 4' sheet of plywood to my Workmate to increase the working area and then attach my power tools to the plywood.
Did you mention that it will cut 4X4's?
I might have missed it.
Thanks😊
Hmmm... Good Question! It has been a while since I had this saw and they probably have a newer model that will do so in one cut. I have had some warped 4x4 that I had to make a second cut to shave off the last bit on another saw.
Thank you for your prompt reply 🙂.
Appreciate your video! Nice job. I went and bought one of these after watching you and I'm confused...it looks like I can't stand my 4.5" skirting skirting upright to cut it...Where would I go to see these limitations for different saw sizes?
You are certainly welcome. The cutting capacity for most saws can be found on the specifications "tab" or "section" on the website for that tool. Cheers!
Would a miter saw stand work just as well as the work bench?
Hey William - There are pros and cons to each. A miter stand would be easier to set up and handle longer work pieces. If you will be cutting a lot of longer 2x4s that may be the way to go. If you are working on smaller pieces and need to have a number of measuring devices or plans on hand then the bench can be more convenient. I hope this helps. Cheers!
I have mine on my workbench in a small shed. Any long board cuts i use my skillsaw. I wish I had a stand though. If you have the room and a workbench that isn't crazy deep, I'd say get a stand
What size block were you using to stabilize?
Hello after 4 years would you still recommend this miter saw?
Yes, if this is what you have for a budget.
How exactly did you attach the plywood to the WorkMate? Could you please explain? Thank you
Hey Dua Keys - This video should help you out: ua-cam.com/video/6miJB1UcSs0/v-deo.html
What is that yellow piece all the way up front (releases spring tension to change angle
Yes, press it down to allow changing of the miter angle.
I saw a lot of things wrong in this video. First, there are many different versions of this miter saw and replacement parts are mostly unavailable and not interchangeable. My biggest issues are with accuracy of the cuts and the hold-down clamps. That only one is sent with these saws is so bad. You should always try to use 2 of them and if you can't, you shouldn't buy this miter saw. Get your smartphone out and check out the available parts for the model number on the box. The hold-down clamp is the one item you will probably need to order. Some of the newer clamps do have replacements, but they won't fit in back (the vertical post is 0.6" diameter and the hole for it is 0.58" - if you have a metal lathe, you can easily turn down the mild steel rod, but it shouldn't have been necessary) and the horizontal piece is too long, so the clamp extends either off the saw edge or gets in the way of the motor. The new clamps are tool long horizontally and the old ones too puny. My motor is on the other side, but I saw what appeared in this video that the clamp got in the way when tilting the blade to the left for the 45 degree cut. The fence, which is moveable, will get cut if you don't take care to move it out of the way before you try cutting that 45 degree angle. Tightening the clamps tends to torque the fence away from you. Thin pieces can slide under the fence. Cutting any work piece that is longer than its width is very, very hazardous. Fortunately, you were able to clamp it down, but without it, the saw blade could grab it and throw it across the room, usually away from you. This will happen so quickly, ripping the piece from your hand, that you will not even see it. Cross-cutting anything on a miter saw beyond its capacity (about 13") is a losing game because the blade is never perfectly square against the fence and the two sides of your work piece never perfectly parallel, which means that your cuts will imperfectly intersect when you flip the piece to cut other opposite side. Those kinds of pieces are better suited for a table saw or a router (a flush-trim bit against a straight edge). When cutting long, heavy pieces in any miter saw, those pieces will require supports to be located at least 1/2 the distance from the blade to the end of the work pieces. Imagine the situation of cutting 2 feet off of a 10 foot 2x12. Even if you have the work supports from HF (and I have 3 of them), you might not have the room or space to use them to support the pieces. Yes, you can clamp them in place on the saw, but the leverage/stress on the clamps will tend to rip out the threads in the horizontal piece of the clamps. This is a common reason that the clamps end up being nonfunctional after a while. Replacement clamps, if available, cost about $10 but they will likely not fit your model miter saw. If you have a drill press, a 10 mm drill bit and a 12 mm-1.75 tap, you can re-drill the soft metal in your old clamp's horizontal piece and re-tap it for the threads in the new hold-down clamp. If the indent at a particular degree mark is not accurate, you can rotate the saw to the correct measurement, but you have to do that each time and it's a nuisance. Having to do that is a consequence of poor quality control, practically a HF trademark. I've had 2 of these saws with the same model number and there is inconsistency between them. Other than the cost, there is no advantage to the HF miter saws and since the pandemic, the advantage of even that has mostly disappeared due to price increases and the subsequent disappearance of discount coupons. Don't let making them blue and calling them "Hercules" (or whatever) instead of "Chicago Electric" fool you into thinking you're getting a quality tool. These are all "Made in China" and you know what that means.
Hey Jay. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
😂😂 really ? everything is made in China now you know what that means
Thank you! Great content!!!
Creative Expressions You are certainly welcome, and welcome to my channel.
No one read the directions that came in the box? The stop bolt thing is definitely mentioned.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting. Cheers!
Just bought 1 and trying 1st cut of a 1x8 and it wont cut the last 1/4 inch on the bottom side. SUGGESTIONS?
Sounds like the depth control is set too high. I believe on this model it is located on the left side of the unit.
Thanx
Maybe i missed it but, did you mention the make of the blade?
And is there a specific reason you matched it to that HF-CE saw?
Hey Atticus Draco - At the time I purchased this saw it did not come with a blade. The name on the blade is worn off, but I don't see it on the HF site as it has a gold coloring to it. It is a 60 tooth blade.
My used Chicago miter saw did not come with the clamp hold down. Do you know where I can find one?
holidaze The only place I could recommend would to be to go back to Harbor Freight.
@@WorkMateGuy thanks for the reply. Have gone to store. Guess I will try the company next.
مرحبا
انا اريد ١٠انج او ١٢انج مستعمل نضيف جدا
اذا اكو خابرني في التعليق
للمعلومات انا في اقليم الكردستان /العراق
اشكراكم
Thanks for stopping by.
How does your saw cut. I'm new to woodworking. I plan on getting one. I've about 2 years the saw starts having problems and ppl can't get replacement parts.
Unfortunately, my older model doesn't have any obvious was to true the horizontal angle to 90 deg. I've tried every adjustment I can find and a 90 deg cut still shows at 3 deg on the guide. Owners
manual is no help at all and UA-cam doesn't show my model either.
Hi Glen, of course you have thought of this... the guide might be off and have you checked with a square?
@@WorkMateGuy After two weeks of watching YT vids and loosening nuts and bolts here and there on my saw. It took me that long to figure out that the angle indicator was not the indicator of square. Finally loosened the 4 bolts on the guide to adjust to 90°.
Was really looking at this to replace my makita chop saw but saw kobalt 7 1/4 sliding compoubd for $99 at lowes that I think I will go with. It'll cut up to 2x8 material which is good for me. For $10 more for a decent brand though smaller I think Kobalt would be a bette4 choice.
mixwell1983 I would tend to agree with you, the Kobalt is probably a much better buy. Along with a better warranty. Thanks for stopping by and posting.
I have this same saw, and I can't get the damn thing to cut correctly. It's always off by a few degrees. I regret buying it, but I bought it many years ago for rough work, and I never really checked it back then to see if it was cutting straight. Now I'm trying to get it to be more precise and it's impossible.
Tiktaalik When you say it's off by a few degrees, are you talking about horizontally or vertically? It might be that some of the gauges are off and you need to re align???
@@WorkMateGuy Horizontally. I don't use it to make bevels. I just want a nice 90 degree cut when, say, I chop a 2 x 4 in half. I have the vertical of the blade locked down at 90, and I used a magnetic angle finder to confirm it's at 90.
I have tried adjusting the fence so I get a 90, but the fence has VERY little "play" in it to adjust. So, I bore out the holes on the hex screws as much as I could to get more of a slot instead of a hole, to adjust more.
Nope. That didn't work either. It's always off by several degrees no matter what.
It could also be the positive stop of the miter adjust that's off, but there's no way to adjust that.
@@RCPoliComm I know I'm late but I may have a solution. If the lumber you are cutting isn't jointed, meaning, not 100% flat on the cutting surface and fence, no matter how perfect the blade is positioned won't matter. As soon as the cut piece is removed the cut will be 90° to whatever the saw is, not the wood.
If working with dimensional construction lumber and perfection is required, you must prepare your lumber before making the cut by jointing 2 sides to give the lumber a perfect 90° angle to fit on the saw.
Wrong, at least 14 gage or better, 16 gauge will burn your saw up especially if it’s longer than a 10 ft extension cord,
Thanks for pointing this out. Cheers!
Step 1 to get most out of any Chicago Electric/Harbor Freight tool? Find the nearest garbage can.
Get a dewalt. It's made in America with Chinese parts.