Why Is My 1971 MG Midget Undrivable?
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2023
- While out driving my MG Midget the car started to shutter and bog on acceleration.
I was able to limp home because I wasn’t far, but now needed to figure out why the car suddenly became undrivable.
British cars of this period had an issue with a change in the supplier for fuel tanks which resulted in paint from the inside of the tank blocking the fuel system as a result they had to fit an in-tank filter over the suction tube on the fuel tank level sensor
My tank had one of those screens inside it which I removed when I cleaned and lined the tank. Could still be some crap in there though. Thanks for the comment.
Great tip regarding testing the condenser… You mentioned buying a spare to keep with the car… I’d like to recommend the dizzy doctor (uk) for quality components. I replaced the condenser in my moggy two years/3K miles ago and it’s still going strong. ESM Morris Minors also stock dizzy doctor condensers… Expensive (10$) but quality… ESM provide a top service…
Thank you. Very helpful. PS your car is immaculate.
Glad it was helpful! It’s easy to check and change, so worth keeping such an inexpensive part with you.
Nice clean Midget! 1275? Good diags. I would have been chasing the carbs.
Looking at the distributor, as I have had many BMC engines over the past 50 years, it looks like the ignition timing is way out from where it should be. I think I would reset the static timing then do an adjustment with the distributor loose and rotate the distributor with the engine running so that it at least runs smoothly. It looks like it is too far advanced from the position of the vacuum advance.
Where did you get those plug wires and what kind are they
One thing I once had was due to a too tighten feulline to the carburetor. There hapoen to be an aluminum tiny cap just before the float chamber underneath that little cap is a tiny hole which allows air going into the float chamber. When you tighten the feulline too tight you might close that little hole ( pinsize) which resulted in my case in an vacuum in the float chamber and a awfully running engine.
Just a hint, thought or note.
Thanks @RenePleinAir,
It’s great to have more things to look for when the car isn’t running well.
Great video and really helpful. I have a problem with my coil becoming hot 🥵 I heard you mention that the coil was warm. Have you any ideas why a coil may be running hot when it appears that the engine is running well? Tkanks👍🏼
I'm not sure why mine was warm, but it wasn't hot. I've heard that an ignition coil that is getting hot can be caused by fouled or warn out spark plugs. Good luck with your car.
that's how they are built...you know why they don't make computers in the uk...they haven't figured how to make them leak oil
Nice job. Poor part performance and fit is really becoming a significant problem with our cars.
It sure seems that way.
Is there an electronic ignition module to replace the points & condenser?
Yes, and it's.... Not very good.
Well the usual, cheap, one (which is also sold not cheap by some unscrupulous outlets), isn't.
It's an easy drop in, but you'll often find it sparks too soon when cranking. So you dial the ignition back, only to find then it's too retarded when running. So you advance it to where it should be, and get the whump whump near stall on the starter again. I've had this, others I've spoken to have had this... It seems to be a "characteristic".
Also know of one that suddenly died. Good thing is, if you're really determined, they're cheap and easy enough to fit that you can carry a spare. Or keep a spare set of points/ condenser with you...
Hi, I just installed the Accuspark kit. Hope it’s not the crappy one you are describing. So far so good for me. Thanks for your comments.