Toyota Head Bolt Repair using TIMESERT Universal Head Bolt Thread Repair kit
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2013
- Here is a Toyota with pulled head bolts which was repaired with the Universal Head Bolt Thread Repair kit. Tom at Jerry's broken drill and tap removal service demonstrates how to repair the head bolt & threads of Toyota Camry which over heated and caused the bolts to strip out.
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This video is leagues better than your BMW head one, since you actually showed your work rather than repeat yourself 5 times over haha. Thanks for posting this, it was a pleasure watching a master do his craft.
Thank you very much Tom, you helped me a lot by posting this video. I fixed my Mama's 02 Toyota Camry that recently pulled the block threads, with the help of your video. The kit was pricey, but well worth the fix. I did the whole thing myself. To all of whom own these Toyotas, these are the early symptoms: It all started with a PO420 diagnostic code, then the gauge began to climb a month or two later. Exhaust gas smelled of a sweet smell of antifreeze. That's a tell tale sign that your head-gasket, or head has failed. Do not drive the vehicle like this.
I’m happy I found this comment
My first experience with Timesert was almost 40 yrs ago, repairing a Johnson 3.5HP outboard head with a cross-threaded plug.
I was impressed with the process then, and can only imagine it's gotten even better since. Sure makes Heli-coil look silly.
Thank you sir. You answered all my questions. Glad you made a video because nobody else explains the measurement.
Great narration and camera work. You're a true craftsman. You know what you're doing and do a great job at you explaining what you're doing. I really enjoyed this video. Please keep up the good work!
Great video, thank you for the detailed explanation of all the steps you're going through. You can tell by those thumbnails you work for a living!
Excellent camera work. Very alert. And Tom sounds like a doctor. Very impressive. Excellent explanations.
Nice touch on using duct tape to keep chips out of the cylinders and coolant passages. Much more elegant solution than stuffing rags in the holes.
Minus leaving dipstick tube open while blowing them chips all over
Great video and explanation, I used a Time Sert kit a few years back on a Honda J-32 motor thread repair. Can't say enough good things about the quality of their product. Thank you for posting your excellent work !
great instructions,loved to know the story about the thumb wounds.
Nice job. I prefer the timesert kit over the NS300 kit. I timeserted a great number of northstars in the past. Great, high quality kit.
Great video and thank you so much for your time and effot to share your wisdom in this video. It helped me a lot and also to understand what has happened to my motor and what i need to do. You're a ledgend best wishes to you.
Stripped head bolts in 2006 Scion thanks for the vid 👍🏽
I am currently doing this job on an 03 camry. Someone had already had a go at all of the intake side holes with heli-coils, all at variying depths. All of the exhaust side holes were virgin aluminum. I was set on this path with a multiple cylinder misfire code. found that the intake valves on 2 and 4 were no seating with the cam at the closed positions. It seems like the seats were collapsed and allowed the valves to stay open. The head on this engine has the seats cut straight into the head. (I thought they all used hardened seats, for god sake lawnmowers have hardened seats!) Using the time-sert kit was easy to use, but a very meticulous process for knocking out all 10 holes. I would like to get others opinions now though. I have come across a Toyota TSB that states if there is any thread damage on the 2 pairs of holes on the ends, that the short block should be replaced. The TSB does not explain any reasoning behind this so I assume this is a sales/scare tactic. Does anyone know why the tsb would say to replace the block if those end holes are damaged? I cant recall any difference in feed pressure as i was core drilling those holes as opposed to the others. All of the inserts threaded down to the same depth seemingly with no trouble. From the comments, it looks like most of you are setting all 10 inserts with the job, that makes me feel better about what i have already completed, im just hoping for some positive feedback. thanks for the great video!
Very well done, in fact we will post your video on our websites. Out of the hundreds of Time Sert 2200 kits that we've sold (with free next day shipping) 99 percent of them are for the same Toyota models you've mentioned. Usually the middle back four bolt holes fail. We always recommend doing all ten though, to help insure there's no more problems.
I had a rocker arm bolt strip on a GM V6. Going to get the Time cert kit made just for the GM V6 rocker arm bolt. One question, why do they include 5 inserts, why not 2, 4, or 6
TECH BILL I know what you're saying, but 5 is insert quantity on all of the small Time Sert kits. Extra individual inserts are available. Most of our customers are fixing just one and just want several extra for future use. We can sell as many extras as you want though. Our M8x1.25 kit, kit number 1812CORE is for first time repairs and the 1812COREBS is for repairs after a Heli Coil has failed and the hole is bigger. We also sell the 1015CORE for GM rocker arm bolt repairs that use the M10x1.5 instead of the more common M8x1.25. I'm a Master Tech not just a tool salesman. So let us know if we can help with any other Time Sert questions.
TECH BILL Standard when buying the kit
Being that 99% of the kits are for the same Toyota models, you should consider throwing in 2 cylinder head dowels with the kit. To do all 10 holes, the bushings/dowels have to come out, and will likely be unusable afterward. I'm currently doing this exact repair.
You the man tom!
Well done, lots of info
Thank you a lot, from your video am asking my mechanic to use Time Sert not Helicoil.
If you were nearby I would have brought it to you,
you explained the history similar to my case.
How did it work out for you?
thanks awesome vid
Thanks for the video. I
YOU KNOW YOU ARE LOOKING AT A REAL ARTISAN WHEN YOU SEE THOSE BLACK THUMB NAILS!!!!!!
Good video
I'm glad you put inserts in all the head bolt holes instead of just the
ones that fail. IMO it's the best approach for this situation.
There are a few reasons for that, for anyone who doesn't understand why
you would fix more than what is observed to be broken:
1. All the head bolts on any specific engine experience the same
conditions. This means that if one bolt pulled the threads out of the
block after overheating, the rest can be assumed to be similarly
damaged.
2. Inserts themselves are cheap, and the tools to install them are a
one-time cost. This means a shop that installs inserts will likely lose
more money to comebacks than they will save by not putting inserts in
all 10 head bolt holes.
3. The part of installing head bolt inserts that takes the most time is
just getting at the block in the first place. This means it doesn't cost
much more in labor time to install inserts for all of the head bolts
versus replacing just a few of them.
Source: I'm an auto mechanic, and I'm the son of an auto mechanic.
Side note: I live in NY. You only see a 10 year old car without rust up
here if the owner garages it and regularly washes it especially during
the winter months. Or if it was originally a southern car and was only
recently moved up here.
Ase certified?
Untrue to assume all bolts holes are compromised. Some bolt holes are more insulated my material than others
Great work Tom! I am doing this job right now on a 2003 Camry. I have completed the 3 middle intake holes with time-serts (those were the loose bolts I found when removing the head) and now I'm trying to decide whether to keep going. Should I do all 10?
very informative video. thank you. I have 1981 rabbit diesel. multiple holes' threads are broken hopefully I will follow your video step by step but I just wonder what is the torque time sert can handle. mine need 66Lb feet.
Are you taking warfarin tablets Jerry? That was nice tutorial I had same trouble on one 2AZ engine did not realised that over heating was the reason striped of those treaty . I cold get aluminium insert which I think made from brass or stainless still would be better. In my repaired some drill go through to sump chamber . The engine surface and head become distorted and aluminium lose their temper (soften) that all effect the good dealing of the head gadget which is only made from 3 layer of shin. Good luck is required.Toyota engineer had design a unrepeatable engine! I found out little hardness tester with steel ball test device could be useful for hardness of the engine and head surfaces be fore apply expensive repaired.
As you drilled the guide bushing lifted. I would have thought the guide bushing was to stay seated and the depth was based on the stop bushing reaching the guide bushing?
I see you found your thumbs twice! :D Thank you for the info, sir.
I am a we subscriber. Crazy interesting work you do. What kind of Loktite did you use here? Thanks
Hi Tom, thank you for the very informative video. I am in the process of doing timeserts on all of the head bolt holes. I have found on the rear bolt on the intake side there is a hole approx 1/2” in diameter facing toward the inside of the block right towards the cooling jacket however it is filled with water so it does not appear to be leaking. I found it when I put brake cleaner in the
hole and the cleaner leaked out immediately from the bell housing area. Trying to figure if this is factory design? Tried find blueprints on the block with no luck. I was going to put JB Weld in it but was trying to find out if it supposed to be there? Can’t imagine why though. Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I am trying to find out if the head bolts should go in dry or be slightly lubricated. I can not find an answer on their web site or anywhere else so far. I am hoping that since you do the thread repairs you might have the answer to that question.
Jerry which Time sert kit do you use for the Toyota 2.4 lite the Big Sert 2200 BS or the Basic Time Sert 2200 kit..Thanks Richard
Thank you for showing this video very nice ,where do I get such tool?$ and how much it costs?
So I heard u can only incer the 6 inner holes the 4 outer holes u can’t is that true or should I fix em all anyways? I would like to hear from your guys experience
How did u bash both thumbs👍
Would you repair all of them or just the ones that don’t hold proper torque?
tom, much do you charge on a 04 camry, head is allready off.
Can you tell me what Time-Sert kit I need for a 99 Camry 2.2l? Just not sure of the thread size or pitch.
After watching your video, I decided to go the same way. I have 8 holes done, but I'm trying to determine how to get the cylinder head dowels out of the block. To do all 10 holes, they need to come out, and obviously be replaced. Are these available somewhere?
What was your solution?
Love the SK ratchet, almost indestructible..
My SK ratchet like that is broken. I think it works if you keep your thumb on the switch. I can't remember. Go figure. Haha. I wonder if I can warranty it. I have had it for about 25 years.
@@YouSpamTard I worked at SK Wayne Co. in Defiance, Oh in 1963-64 before I went in the Navy.
northstar engines had the same issue, timeserts seemed to work there!
Every time when done right!!!!
What's the cause of overheating? I have one of these and it's lived in the hottest part of Australia with no issues
does the 6 cylinder have the same problems as the 4?
What he got it wrong is that in Toyota's case, head bolts stripped causes coolant leak and then engine overheating. It is an engine design flaw Toyota refused to acknowledge. Not the other way around as suggested by him that overheating engine causes bolts to be stripped. Overheating is the symptom, not the cause.
( Toyota 2.4L 2AZFE engine ) Symptoms of stripped head bolts snydrome: leaking heater core, leaking/ crack plastic on radiator, high temps on dash temp reader. Remove the thermostat out / keep topping off your coolant every week, keep the reservoir's cap-straw loose ( to allow boiling gases to escape ) to buy time until you have $$ for a proper repair. You'll create a CEL & loose MPG, but you will stop overheating until you have $$ for a proper repair. Peace.
Great explanation and a great video, thank you! I have a question - bearing in mind you have repaired hundreds of these engines - is this factory design flaw also concernig the 2.0 litre 1az -fe engine as well. And if yes, is the problem solved in the same engine (1az fe) in Rav4 Xa30 model from 2007 onwards. Thank you.
Do i neef to tap all 10 holes . only one actually pulled threads i think cause when i removed head bolt alluminum was on threads of it
What kind of drill is that I've heard the cordless drill is giving trouble
Question? how did you determine which head gasket bolts failed, were they still torquing down tight even though they were lifting or stripped or was the head gasket constantly blowing? It's only been a year an my head gasket is blown again.
We never look for the holes that failed. All threads become weak so we do the whole motor, all ten!!!
What size is the drill bit?
So should I mark the drill at 4 inches then?
Great tutorial, thanks! (But give the cameraman some Xanax 30 mins before the next video shoot.)
Great Video. What's the average mileage you see these 2AZFE Engines strip the threads?
140,000 to 200,000 depends on how you run it
What is the cost if this repair on Highlander?
Where can i buy that timesert in thr philippine my head bolt loose tread also honda accord 1999
what diameter was the core drill? If you dont mind me asking
I used the 11x1.5x30mm timesheet but notice the original head bolts don't go as far down to their original height. Will I need shorter head bolts? Or longer insert?
Duke, sorry it took so long to get back. Same bolts will be fine if the machine work and installation is done right. Their is only two reasons the bolts won't go to proper depth. Either the counter bore was to shallow or you didn't push the driver tool all the way thru the insert. Both are critical!!! Thanks
Wait till Scotty Kilmer hears about all those broken Toyotas :O
I think he's aware that 2002-2009 2.4L 4 cyls were some of their worst. Which is the excuse I use to buy a V6 Avalon
@@Eyeofnelms Really? 2005 with absolutely no problems.
Can you explain when using the tap why you didn't back off to break chips? Obviously it cut threads just fine. I'd like to know if and when you should back off when cutting threads.
Fireballsocal I only back off if the tap feels binding. Tom
Fireballsocal I didn't experience any need to back off, though I did it out of principle. I used a powerful, corded drill to tap the holes, no problems.
If the steel bolts pulled the threads out, why wont the steel inserts pull out of the threads as well, under the same conditions? Wouldnt making new threads in the existing hole starting from the top of the block and using bigger bolts the size of the new threads the length of the threads on the bolts? The bolts have lots of unused threads that shouldve been used from the factory.
Just curious here.. how is Jerry doing nowadays?
Why timesert instead of the NS300L ?
and you would think that using a ratchet is just wollering out the hole even as much. if you use taps why not use a tap wrench to have equal ammounts of pressure evenly?
Great video. I have the same engine on an '04 Camry. Do you recommend replacing all of the head bolts or just those that have pulled? I would be afraid that if I don't redrill all them I'd have to do it again.
I did this with a mechanic a number of years back when four of the 10 bolts failed torquing and stripped. We drilled and tapped all 10 putting timecert inserts in. That was at 195,000 it lasted another 50,000 before I noticed low engine roar issue. Had somebody install crate engine and 100,000 miles later I’m about to attempt the same thing. Because when I pull the head off I’m assuming it has the same problem. Not a mechanic so by myself it’s gonna take a long time. But it’s not going anywhere like it is. Daughter is not good about checking fluids to keep from overheating. Hope yours turned out well
Did you end up fixing it?
@@Lifesituations8000 Yes. Took the head to a shop to resurface and pressure test. The Toyota TSB on this said to just do the all 6 bolts in the middle, not the 4 in each corner. I had to buy a drill with more torque (Yes, honey, I do need this tool) and it did the job. Unfortunately, I didn't replace the timing chain and sprockets along with the VVT solenoid/actuator, so when it wouldn't start, I found I had no compression. So, then I had to take the timing cover off again to replace those. Not sure if it was just the solenoid/actuator or if the chain was worn. I haven't put a lot of miles on it yet, but it runs great.
@@dejavamantoo Thanks, we have a 2004 also LE. It has some with smoke on startup no overheating and no loss of coolant. What do you recommend? Should I leave it or try to perform the job you did?
@@Lifesituations8000 Well, I'm not a mechanic, but I've read that this engine frequently has the "smoke on startup issue". If it's black or gray, I think I've read that it's just what some of these engines do. If it's white, then it could be burning coolant. When I told my mechanic (a real mechanic) that there seemed to be a lot of pressure in the the cooling system, he immediately said I could have a blown head gasket. Every time I opened the radiator cap, even when the engine was cold, it was like I had opened a bottle of pop (soda, for those northeasterners) with the pressure release. You can borrow a leak detector test kit from an auto parts store to see if there are exhaust gases in your coolant. It's a pretty easy test and that confirmed it for me.
where are you and how much?
How much is the kit? How much is it?
You guys do first-rate jobs. Can someone please explain to me how installing a steel insert in an aluminum block is stronger. It's still aluminum holding the insert.
Probably the overlap surface between the timesert and alloy is greater than the original contact surface bolt tread-alloy. This why becomes stronger. But does not matter if better or not. This is the quality approach in such a case. There are other options, but not that good.
I am not sure it even has to over heat. I think the fist over heat is caused by the loss of seal. Also what is the total hours of labor?
It doesn't need to even overheat. This is a defect from the factory that doesn't rear itself until the engine has several 10's of thousands of miles on it or more. I own a Highlander 03' 2.4L that had 198,XXX miles on it before it occurred. Vehicle had never been overheated.
Your right!!! It could lose a seal which could cause coolant loss. What ever the reason if the motor gets hot the head swells causing the threads to stretch and become weak and then needs thread repair. The labor time for the job depends on who's doing it. If we do the job it requires about 4 hours. Thanks for the reply
udidwht Thats a good call. With the kind of miles its possible the threads can get weak. What ever reason they need to be repaired!!! Thanks
talk2bill It will take about 3 days with a helper. Assuming all goes well on the first try.
udidwht Theories of what caused this on 1/3 of the 2AZ-FE engines vary from over-torqued bolts at the factory, to a poor thermal design.
@6:21 i can see why it over heated, the upper radiator hose is kinked...
The upper hose attaches to the head, he just has it bent down there to keep it out of the way
Hello Tom! Where are you located? I have a leaking head bolt p/s rear on a 99' Toyota Corolla VE 1.8L 1ZZ-FE. Great video! Precise!
usmc9789 Santa Ana , CA
usmc9789 If you need it done and are in the DC area, I can help you. I've done this procedure and have a reference.
تمام والله
Where could I rent a TimeSert tool, and purchase inserts for 2007 Rav4 4 cyl
Sam Rafeedie i can give you the phone number of the company who rent it i just rent the kit and i am doing the repair my self
Insert on ebay part # 11155
@@jeeanyo6029 I need that number as well sir
I can’t find the link online to rent the tool.
Toyota ultimately admitted that the bolt's failure would lead to leakage causing the overheating...
This happen because owner kept driving with low coolant and broken radiator cap
Anybody in New York 😭😭
He mentioned TIMESERT more than 150 times!
Good informative vids , unfortunately my 4 banger. Highlander 2004 needs this job , mechanic called and said head is at the shop,and his going to install time Serts on all six he said .toyota you suck
How much for kit and labor?
This 2.4 motor was obviously not good with the head bolts and piston ring defects - bad engineering on Toyota's part.
Scotty downvoted it.
Better off having the holes machined to the next size up metric head bolt. Don't expect to get more than 12,000 miles out the engine before the head starts to come loose the time serts rip out. Happens all the time on Northstar engines repaired with time serts.......
While I'll agree that this happens more often than not, I think it the quality of the repair may also be a factor. I've watched fellow flat rate techs cut corners on similar engine jobs just to make a quick buck and the vehicle comes back and bites them in the rear. I have done the repair on two northstars (aurora and deville) and one on my own 03 camry and have not have any problems with the repair. Granted I have not seen the aurora again but the deville is a regular customer and comes in for oil changes, tires, etc. and at about 18K miles later the customer has not had any problems. One of the main things that I do is that I allow the vehicle to sit 24hours after I do the block repair. This helps "cure" the threadlocker which may or may not assist with the repair (it takes a day or so just to get the cylinder heads checked from the machine shop anyways). Maybe I'm just lucky but I'm also very OCD when it comes to this type of repair.
While most mechanics have the right idea for the repair they have little machining experience. I have been in this business for over 40 years. In the last 10 years we have done over 500 Northstar BMW & Toyota motors without any complaints or motors coming back. Time Serts are the best repair if done right. Going over size 12 MM requires drilling out the head and finding the right bolts. The only reason a Time Sert would pull out is if it was machined wrong in the first place. We have repaired several motors that mechanics have done and did the right repair. We are a Machine Shop that knows how to do it right the first time. A mechanic has the right idea for what the motor needs but generally does not have the machining experience to do the insert installation correctly…...
Dan Einspahr Your exactly right!!!
EETechs Actually, that's not better, these are far superior.
buy the time you buy a new machined head gasket and get new bolts you might as well get a remanufactured engine for 1400 bucks
ham shank Yeah, so it can happen all over again. Or you could just fix it right the first time and not have to worry about it again.
Maybe say timesert a few more times.. ..timesert,timesert,timesert,time what? Timesert
Give the old man a break, he does the work perfectly fine.
VVTI! WHAT A BULLSHIT STORY. DONT LIKE IT, AND IM NOT THE ONLY ONE.
I don't know who you are but calling this a bullshit story without any text or story evidence tells me you are an uneducated idiot spreading your own story with your own lack of intelligence, proper understanding, and experience. Judging from your post crude post you have no business in an intelligent conversation.
Thumb down, I don’t need to hear Time Sert in every sentence!
Well if you’re gonna give him a thumbs down for just saying the name of the company that made the tool multiple times which is just a retarded reason why to give someone a thumbs down I’ll give you one too