Cub Cadet RT 65 Tiller Transmission
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- Опубліковано 28 гру 2016
- First video of this length so I apologize for it being so long. I tried to give as much information as possible to aide you knowing the location of the gears and how to reassemble the transmission. I had to create this video without the aide of someone to run the camera so unfortunately I could not get as detailed as I would have liked. I hope in some way this may help you get your tiller going again.
![ЛЕБЕДЕВ у ДУДЯ: муху не обманешь 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E74h5fvVrqs/mqdefault.jpg)
What a great explanation of the gearbox. This is one of the best videos I've ever watched to help on a repair. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything right down to the detent ball and spring.
Thank you so much for your kind words, I really appreciate you commenting.
I really appreciate you doing this video. I would never have attempted this job if I did'nt have your instructional video to go by. You have been a tremendous help to me and I thank you.
Thank you Brother , You have saved a lot of fret and cussing by freeing me from the explosion drawings . Your caring to clarify this process has been a gift to peace in the world . Frustrations build up and spread .. you’ve spared us all from that . Bless You Brother , ~ Andre’
You are more than welcome my friend, just a note, my tiller is still going strong and not only tilled up mine but a neighbors garden also. I am so glad you found something useful and I really appreciate the kind words. Let me know how it goes and you're up and running again. Just take your time and shoot pictures as you go for back up. Have fun with it my friend .
Thank you so much for this video. You just restored my sanity. All the diagrams I looked at just didn't show enough thanks again
You're welcome, glad it helped you.
A great video. I'll be referring to it in the future to reassemble my MTD tiller.
Thanks for taking the time and doing this video.....I had no clue what was in store for me, but now I have some idea. Up until a few years ago, I had never considered myself a "mechanic", but I did replace the engine on this tiller, and this video now gives me a little confidence to fix my non-spinning tines! -Griff
Great, glad to hear it, really hoping it helps. Thanks for the response.
Just replace both chains, there bad about breaking and locking it down or not turning or moving
Very informative video. I've had my own small engine shop for ten years and you taught me something. Nice work fella!
I am honored by your comment. I learn things I never new everyday even from the youngest child, you just have to be open to listen to people. Thank you so much.
Thanks for your complete response.You are for sure a pro.Have a great day
This video is one of the very best, really well done. Thanks!
Thank you sir for the kind words.
Excellent instructional video! I have an RT-65 that's just starting to make noises and fear a rebuild isn't far off. Lonnie Johnson referred to your video while rebuilding his transmission and I'm glad I found it. When the need arises I'll be using your video to put mine back together. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I'm in the middle of this project as we speak. I had hoped to get the case to separate on one side without dropping all the gears out of place. The spindle that connects to the pulley had fallen out and water was in the case. This case had been worked on prior because the gasket is missing. I've put some lubrication on the tine spindle in hopes of it sliding off. If it comes to the fact that they will fall out I can attentively watch your video..Thanks for making this one for those who wish to learn something each day.
In all honesty Paul I wonder why they haven't fixed the problem of water leaking into the case. It seems to enter at the top where the shaft goes into the case as there is no type of seal there. I guess I could do a slight modification and post it one day. I've been so busy being retired I haven't had time to myself it seems. Even if the gears fall out if you watch the video closely I tried to show each individual gears location and which side goes up. Good luck my friend, just take your time and don't get frustrated. If you do just go get a cup of coffee and when you come back all will be right with the World again.
@@PeteplaysaBACH Always nice to meet another retiree... So I had gotten on the phone to cub cadet and the numbers had been superseded with the letter B on the end. All parts are ordered and waiting on the ole snail mail. Appreciate the reply Sir...Merry Christmas
Thank you so much for making this video.
this was very good and thank you for the content. Appreciate the effort and detail.
Thank you for taking the time to watch. I appreciate it.
Excellent Video well done !
Mine just went down for the shifter collar popped out, so that left me with the rebuild,parts are so high I could have bought a new one. This video helped break it down good. Again thanks
Sorry to hear about your tiller but really glad this video helped you some. You are most welcome and thank you for watching.
Awesome video
Mr Thompson I recently bought a Craftsman 247.299321 which is identical to the RT65. I bought mine for $80 bucks off Facebook. The guy I bought it from told me up front it would run and drive forward and in reverse but the tines would not turn. I tore it down today and mine has three gears with missing teeth. I plan to order the parts I need and rebuild it with a oil system like you mentioned. Great video! Thanks much for your expertise!
Great deal you got there . Wow Remember the tine shaft seals will leak some oil as they are not double lipped seals . I keep saying I am going to Mader bearing and have them search out the proper seal to use in this application with the gear oil. So I would put a pad to catch any drips that may come on onto a nice pretty garage floor. Having a bad back I only get out when I feel able so I don't go to town as much as I would like. I'm so glad this helped you and you are correct in the fact that several of these type tillers are basically the same and even have the same exact part numbers. always remember to lube all bearing also be fore assembly to cut down on start up wear. Good luck and thank you so much for visiting.
You are too kind my friend just trying to help people as best I can.
What do you seal the cover with RTV or what
Thank YOU very much " You Old Grumpy Mechanic "
Never mind the Tiller I hope you get healed up sorry to hear about your health issues.I'M 74 and have a small engine shop here in the Napa Valley CA. You need to start a school because you have a great easy to understand way of teaching.Slow and easy to fallow.GET WELL
Thanks Gerald, I was actually going to teach at the Community College I went to many years ago for Automotive and Diesel mechanics. I graduated twice each course two years then of course all the small schools companies sent me to updating every time something new came out. Well the Dean over that section actually told me there was no need for Diesel Mechanics today . I laughed in his face that was maybe 10 years or better back and they are still screaming for qualified mechanics. Then I went to a local Community College in Mobile Alabama down town I was the top of the list and when I met for the final Interview with the Head of the College she asked me if I still would take the job but as part time. I laughed at her also. The end of that story came maybe a year later where she was found manipulating the colleges finances and the college was missing a lot of money. I knew when I first met her she was a scammer as the way that I was lead through the whole process then when the job offer came she changed it from Full time to part time. Oh well what can you do. I kept doing what I had been told by Doctors not to until my body had given up. I'm disabled now but Yes I would have loved to teach at some Community college but now I don't think they would take me as I have to be careful what I do because of my back and I have days where I just am hurting so bad all I can do is sit at the computer. I would love it but I hold little hope of ever having an offer. Thanks again my friend and good luck.
why douse my poulan pro rear tines jump out of gear
You have helped me so much
So glad, that's all I wanted to do is help someone. Have a great day and thank you for watching.
Your video awesome ...very informative!!!! I've just got finished tilling my garden area and hit quite a few roots in the reverse forward mode it preformed quite well. But now when I shift to reverse forward it making a loud chattering noise, time to investigate, all other shift positions operate just fine.
Hate to hear it's making noise, those roots can sure beat one up. I'd rather hit one with the tines in reverse position rather than forward as the dog gone thing will jump and drag you if you can't let go in time. If the bearings went out then you may wind up having some teeth busted. I hope not but I'd replace all the bearings when I put it back together and lube them up with the grease even if you run oil. Good luck let us know what you find. I appreciate the kind words too.
Well done 👍 thank u sir BLESSING
Hey, hope you're doing well, it's been a while since you made this video, just letting you know that it is still helping. Thank You!
Thank you , I really Appreciate the nice words.
My RT65 does not have needle bearings in the gears. It has bushings instead. Maybe it is an older model than the one you did the video on??? I apreciate you taking the time to do the video. I had a pile of gears on the floor when I first opened mine up. At least I can reassemble it now!!! LOLOL
Interesting that you had bushings. I'm not sure if the really old ones did or not or if someone switched them out because they couldn't find the bearings. Maybe you could use the serial number to get the year model and find out. I'm curious to know. Glad it helped out putting it all back together, Hope nyou have a great new year and Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. Any tips on how you got the case fully separated in half? I got my case separated about 1 1/2, but for some reason can't get the rear part off fully (closest side where the gear chain is in your video).
Update: Took some emery paper and sanded off the surface rust and I was able to get the cover off.
Little late on the reply but it looks like you did well. Usually that is the main reason or it just needa a little tap.
Yes, I used 80-90 weight gear oil. All of the shafts that extend through with a nut and flat washer on the outside I used rubber flat washers ( 3/8 x 1 1/4 x 1/16 ) P/N #880376 bought from Home depot or Lowes under the metal flat washers, they are in the specialty bins . I also used Permatex Ultra grey advanced formula Maximum Torque Gasket Maker I bought from Advance Auto Parts. I got the tube that fits in the caulk gun. I used this where the triangular ( sort of ) plate that holds a sealed bearing with the snap ring is mounted on the outside as well as the lip between the two sides of the transmission case. Be sure to put a circle of the stuff around the bolt holes as well as along the lip. This will give double protection on leaks. Read the directions. You should put the two sides together and tighten the nuts only finger tight just to where you will have the sealer compress slightly. I let mine set up for a day just to be sure it cured well. I then torque down the nuts. The next move was to put the plate holding the snap ringed sealed bearing on and I used the sealer in the same manner behind it. It tool 1 3/4 gallons of the 80/90 gear oil. You have to remember doing this the worst area for a leak is going to be around the tine shaft seals when you use it.. They are exposed to a lot of abuse from the dirt being churned all around them and it only takes a few grains of sand to make them leak a little. I can live with that and top it off every once in a while. This is why they say to use grease and not oil. When I have more time I will search for a better seal but I have a lot of projects going on and needed the tiller up and going so I used the oem seals for the drive axle and the auger shaft. The axle shaft most likely won't leak as quickly as the Auger seals as they won't be subjected to the abuse the auger seals are. If you need a new Belt for turning the auger you can go to the auto parts store to get one. The OEM belt is only 1/64 " longer than the one I bought for way less than you get it from a tiller store. I got mine at advance auto parts . It is a Car-quest Dayco Brand belt # L458 . Any auto parts place will have it or be able to cross reference the number. Don't forget if you are putting on a new belt you will need to adjust the clutch cable. There are two points. One is down below where the cable is held in place ( The last one I would use as it's too much trouble to access. and the one up by the clutch handle. Be aware if you have the clutch too tight and you happen to have bumped the transmission in gear then the tiller will take off so I would loosen it up first then slowly adjust it until it tries to move then back off an 1'8 to 1/4 ". You might could go more if your situation calls for it. You don't want to stress the cable too much and break it but you don't want it too loose either. Trial and error with a lot of caution plus making sure your shift lever is working smooth in case to have to shift it back to neutral in a hurry in which case and I can't believe they did it like this is reverse is only one detent away from neutral so you could easily knock it in reverse when trying to hit neutral in which case it will run right over you if you're not quick. I will put an update video of my RT65 in operation soon . Got the garden tilled up in 10-15 minutes this time. After all the cleaning on the detent spring, check ball,shaft and greasing it up then being coated with the gear oil this thing has never shifted so easy. It's almost like shifting a car it's so easy. Thanks for the kind words Doug , I'll try to check back if you have any questions. Did you replace your deals also ? If not I would recommend it. Like i said later on when I catch up around here I'll research and find a more appropriate seal for use in the auger location than the OEM one.
this was outstanding.....step by step...couldn't ask for anything better....great job....gonna open mine up and see why its not shifting...thanks a lot for your time posting this...
Thank you, I am planning to post one on the clutch adjustment . I had just set up the other dy to do that when my neighbor came over to tell me her husband was trying to dig his garden by hand so I stopped and put it back together real fast then went over and ran the tiller through his for him. I'm disabled and he helps me a lot on doing any heavy stuff for me.. just a quick reminder I never did get around to finding a suitable replacement for the tine seals so after you run them through the dirt a few times you will leak some oil so remember to keep a check on it and top it off. When ever I get the time I will take the part numbers and maybe get a new set to take to my local bearing supply place and let them cross reference the proper seal to use where the tines are for use with the oil. I can tell you this though the tiller has never shifted so easy or run so smooth. I barely have to use any pressure to take it out of gear which is a huge difference from the first couple of year where I had to jam it as hard as I could . I am also going to modify the engine shut off to move it up t the handle. The location on the side of the engine is just too dangerous if something happens and you have to emergency shut down the motor. It won't be difficult I just have to relocate it or better yet I may put an extra switch to allow you to shut it off at either place. Good luck and if you have any questions please post as I try to check often to help anyone I can. I really appreciate the thumbs up and please subscribe as I am just starting to do this and in the future I will be adding more videos on various repairs or modifications to anything from Dryers to lawn mowers. It just depends on what my family breaks at the time. LOL Get those gardens tilled !
Thanks, come back and let us know what you find. Good luck.
Great video. I did just put one back together. I used 80w-140 fear oil ( didn't see the 80-90 recommendation first) As soon as I put a quart in, the tine fittings started to leak. I am doing this for someone else so not sure what to do from this point. I hate to return a machine with it leaking. Has anyone else performed this and did you find a fix for the leaking around the tine axle?? Thanks again!
I put new seals on also so it took several uses before i had a drip but when I get caught up some if noone else has already cross referenced the part number I am going to Mader Bearings here in Mobile and get them to chase down a seal that will be able to better handle the dirt grinding away at the tine seals. They are pretty dog gone good at coming up with what I need. that is where I bought my bearings but got the seals online. I'm across the Bay from Mobile and try not to go over there too much. LOL By the way I did mention that they would leak after use even with new seals in several responses. You could just do what the manual said and just pack it full of grease but you will wind up in the same situation eventually with the grease being unable to keep the bearings and shifting spool lubricated properly.. Poor design and built light weight compared to the old days of the tractor type cast iron cases but even those leaked eventually. Good luck and if you have a bearing place local like Mader bearing maybe you could get them to get the number of the Tine axle seal that would prevent the leak then post it for the rest of us. I did post the part #'s I used.. Good luck. Thanks for the view.
Are the sprockets welded or keyed to the axle and tine shafts?
My tines are hitting the gear case the shaft appears to be a half inch off center.
Most are either a single sprocket or a couple that are cast with a gear on each end of the shaft. No special tools needed to take the gears out. I would suspect that you broke some teeth and it has pushed something over and jammed it. Either way unfortunately it will have to come apart. Just remember if you go into it get all new bearings and seals or you'll be going back into it again soon. Sorry for the delay. I've been so busy I haven't even had the chance to get on here much. Let me know what you find but several of the different brands of tillers use the same gear set up and even the numbers are the same.
Thanks for the video But I have a question I had to take the The rear axle out that is for The Tines When putting the axle back in Does it matter Which direction you put the axle Back in
great video. im rebuilding one of these right now that was like brand new outside and rusted solid inside. got it cleaned and new bearings in. ready to put back together. i know i couldnt do it without your video. the drawing is terrible. thanks for taking the time and posting. did you end up filling it with oil instead of grease? i am going fill with oil
Not if you use permatex on the flange. The seals for the tines should be replaced with double lip seals as the OEM seals will seep after some useage in the dirt but it's not bad until I get time or anothernreason to take it down but it's still going strong and shifting easy as the first day. The 90 wt. made a huge difference on the lubrication of the hidden needle bearing the grease can't get to. .
how would you test for a bad transmission, on a tiller you plan to buy?
At about @21:20 is the shaft you’re spinning the shaft that the large belt pulley attaches?
The input shaft, I’ll call it, on mine is completely locked. Feels like a car in park. Tiller was running and tilling just fine and then out of nowhere it locked and won’t rotate CW or CCW. Shifting is fine.
Great video Peter...what silicone or sealant did you use to close up the shell?
Thanks Thomas, If I remember I probably used Permatex Gasket maker I had bought from Advanced Auto Parts however they sell it or similar items everywhere it seems . Bt the way as of last week my tiller is still shifting smooth and running like a horse. It has been almost 4 1/2 years since I posted this video so using the gear oil the needle bearings I also replaced have been getting sifficient lubrication where when it had grease packed in it they couldn't and failed. I'd call that a win. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
awesome video Peter thank you. Mine was in a flood a few weeks ago. Its wet under the tiller. you think I should take it apart and drain? or can I tap it some how at the bottom.
Hi John, Sorry to hear about your tiller getting flooded, that really bites. Short by the book answer tear it down replace all the bearings and seals since you have it down anyway and completely clean and dry everything before reassembly. That being said and I am assuming you are in a rush to get your garden in before it's too late in the season I would loosen the bolts surrounding the body and use a paint scraper then a standard screwdriver tip to spread the bottom seam open enough to drain out what water you can. Shoot a little rtv in the opening between the plates let it almost dry then snug them down. Let it dry then tighten them all the way. Considering your grease or oil is already contaminated I would just use motor oil the thinner the better because it will have a better chance to reach the needle bearing rather than try to pack the housing full of grease or even gear oil. Going to leak but you will be able to finish the garden but no way around it , the thing will need to be tore down cleaned , bearings and seals replaced. Hope you did not have any other things such as vehicles or your house get flooded. I hope this helps some. Wish there was an easier answer but once the lubrication inside unless it was lithium or marine type grease get water in it then it will break down and internal parts will fail. Good luck, let me know how it works out for you.
Hey Peter, great video, thank you. You said in the video you were switching to a fluid instead of grease, can I ask what fluid you ended up using and is there any potential for leakage?
Yes sir, i went to 90 Wt. gear oil and after you run it a few times tilling it will get some dirt through the axel seals and you will have some seepage. i have intended to get double lipped seals and post the updated numbers but a lot has hapeened since and i am so busy I haven't had the time. I apologize.
@@PeteplaysaBACH no worries bud, alot has gone on for us all.
I like to know how you can have the weld facing up on your drive sprocket without have that spacer there ???
Great video. I have a tiller of that model. This gives me the courage to tackle that repair.Easy to fallow you are a great teacher. I am a small engine mechanic and have refused to get that envolved with these bigger repairs. How much oil will it take when you convert to oil. What weight oil. Thanks
Yes, I used 80-90 weight gear oil. All of the shafts that extend through with a nut and flat washer on the outside I used rubber flat washers ( 3/8 x 1 1/4 x 1/16 ) P/N #880376 bought from Home depot or Lowes under the metal flat washers, they are in the specialty bins . I also used Permatex Ultra grey advanced formula Maximum Torque Gasket Maker I bought from Advance Auto Parts. I got the tube that fits in the caulk gun. I used this where the triangular ( sort of ) plate that holds a sealed bearing with the snap ring is mounted on the outside as well as the lip between the two sides of the transmission case. Be sure to put a circle of the stuff around the bolt holes as well as along the lip. This will give double protection on leaks. Read the directions. You should put the two sides together and tighten the nuts only finger tight just to where you will have the sealer compress slightly. I let mine set up for a day just to be sure it cured well. I then torque down the nuts. The next move was to put the plate holding the snap ringed sealed bearing on and I used the sealer in the same manner behind it. It tool 1 3/4 gallons of the 80/90 gear oil. You have to remember doing this the worst area for a leak is going to be around the tine shaft seals when you use it.. They are exposed to a lot of abuse from the dirt being churned all around them and it only takes a few grains of sand to make them leak a little. I can live with that and top it off every once in a while. This is why they say to use grease and not oil. When I have more time I will search for a better seal but I have a lot of projects going on and needed the tiller up and going so I used the oem seals for the drive axle and the auger shaft. The axle shaft most likely won't leak as quickly as the Auger seals as they won't be subjected to the abuse the auger seals are. If you need a new Belt for turning the auger you can go to the auto parts store to get one. The OEM belt is only 1/64 " longer than the one I bought for way less than you get it from a tiller store. I got mine at advance auto parts . It is a Car-quest Dayco Brand belt # L458 . Any auto parts place will have it or be able to cross reference the number. Don't forget if you are putting on a new belt you will need to adjust the clutch cable. There are two points. One is down below where the cable is held in place ( The last one I would use as it's too much trouble to access. and the one up by the clutch handle. Be aware if you have the clutch too tight and you happen to have bumped the transmission in gear then the tiller will take off so I would loosen it up first then slowly adjust it until it tries to move then back off an 1'8 to 1/4 ". You might could go more if your situation calls for it. You don't want to stress the cable too much and break it but you don't want it too loose either. Trial and error with a lot of caution plus making sure your shift lever is working smooth in case to have to shift it back to neutral in a hurry in which case and I can't believe they did it like this is reverse is only one detent away from neutral so you could easily knock it in reverse when trying to hit neutral in which case it will run right over you if you're not quick. I will put an update video of my RT65 in operation soon . Got the garden tilled up in 10-15 minutes this time. After all the cleaning on the detent spring, check ball,shaft and greasing it up then being coated with the gear oil this thing has never shifted so easy. It's almost like shifting a car it's so easy. Thanks for the kind words Doug , I'll try to check back if you have any questions. Did you replace your deals also ? If not I would recommend it. Like i said later on when I catch up around here I'll research and find a more appropriate seal for use in the auger location than the OEM one.
I honestly can't remember how much of the 80-90 weight oil I used they come usually in a 32 oz. size if I remember correctly. I have meant to do some research to find double lipped seals for the case where the tine shaft is instead of the stock ones I put in. Since if you convert to just oil be aware that after some use since the tine shaft can wind up covered in the dirt if you are tilling deep that the dirt will push back the stock seal and there will be a little leakage. I know my video has been up a while but I was in a car accident , got rear ended and tore my shoulder up so they had to rebuild it. Got better healed all up and tripped falling over something that was left in the walkway at night landing on the same shoulder.. So having to go through the whole procedure again. Just haven't been able to catch up to go to Mader bearing and get them to dig up the part number of an equivalent seal that would be double lipped that would prevent the small leakage that will occur after use. I would suggest getting two bottles and once you are up and running just pull the fill port plug out of the top to check on your oil level. Mine shifts so much better having gotten away from the grease that had been packed in mine. My failure as most have seemed to have been from the needle bearings, similar to u joint bearings on a vehicle , lack of lubrication due to the tolerances being so tight there was no way for grease to get into the bearings. I appreciate the atta boy. There is also another video that a nice fellow has put on that covers taking the wheels and belt shield off. If you read through a few of my replies I believe I have listed a good many of the parts used for replacement. Good Luck, I try on occasion to get back with people and check for questions. I haven't had any problems with mine since the repair and still shifts great.
i just got an rt65 and when i try to put it in till, the gear shift is hitting that little thing that goes up and down when u hit the throttle. So it goes in Reverse tine i think but not in forward tine.
So sorry I missed your comment, been a bit busy for a while. I am guessing you already figured out you were going to have to disassemble it. Most likely as most bearing failure and possible gear damage. Hope you came out okay. Thanks for watching.
Does the gear with the number 7 on it require a single ball bearing in one pf the 8 holes on the face of it? Detent ball?
Sorry Scott, I didn't get an email about your question for some reason. My goodness, I honestly don't remember the number on the shaft that contains the detent ball bit I remember there was only one ball and one spring so when you shifted the unit it dropped into groves if I remember correctly. It's been about 5 and a half years since I've been into the tiller. Since I rebuilt it I have not had any trouble at all with the tiller. It starts and runs, shift smoothly like it should have done in the beginning. make sure and lube it up well. Thanks for watching. Hope you got it repaired.
Mine picked up a stick while the tines were in forward and now makes a grinding sound while the tines are in forward. Runs good with the tines in reverse . Any ideas what broke or stripped ?
Hi just got here to check. I would assume that when it got in a bind it may have broken the race on the bearings for that shaft and possibly a gear as a result. Either way it's going to have to come apart to know for sure what all parts are needing to be replaced. While you're in there it would be a wise decision to replace all the bearings and seals because once one part goes the metal gets all mixed in there and will create new failures so clean it out completely then start from the beginning clean. Hope this helped a little.
Peter Thompson. Thank you. It's been tough. I've seen it pick up a hundred rocks and shut the engine off. I don't t see it has held up like it has.
What method did you use to clean the old grease off ?
Do you suggest any seals for making it oil bath lub?
I would not use just gear oil because shafts don’t have seals
Use #2 grease and Lukas hub oil
I drilled hole in top and plastic plug
I appreciate your comment but disagree , I used flat rubber washers under flat washers to creat a temporary seal until I could go get an actual double lipped seal from my supplier. You have to remember if the oil you use is too thick then the needle bearings WILL NOT get the lubrication they need to last and will burn up just as if you only used grease. Yuo have to take into consideration where the needle bearings are located. The location of the needle bearings make it extremely difficult for any super thick lubricant to get in them. These gears are not spinning at thousands of rpms so the chance of a super thick lubricant raching the bearings is nearly impossible. It's a bad design, if they had holes drilled to allow lubricant to reach the needle bearing then it may be a different situation. Thank you for your input .
@@philliphall5198
Did you ever change this to oil rather then grease? If so what do we need to know?
Okay Mel, I think I already mentioned it in one of the other post but yes I used the oil. Be aware that when you use the oil the tine seals will start to leak some oil when the tines start digging in deep and forcing dirt against the seals. I haven't had the time to go back to Mader Bearing and get them to match me a seal that would prevent that problem. Remember that when you put the new bearing in you will need to pack them with grease and any cavities there are between two bearings on a shaft as this will aid the initial use of the bearings then the oil will eventually be able to work it's way into the bearings. Please refer to the other postings where I listed the oil type, what I used for gasket sealer, etc. I saw where someone had looked at a new tiller at Tractor Supply and they had oil in them so the units may have come with oil before possibly but I know in the manual I read it said pack it full of grease. My opinion is oil would be better because of the type of bearings are needle bearings on a shaft. The same type bearings that are used on universal joints on vehicles. The U joints use to come with grease fittings to pressure grease into them which would be fine in that instance. Now they mostly use sealed bearings for u joints. The bearings in the tiller case are not sealed but they are tight on a shaft inside a gear so the possibility of grease being able t work it's way into the bearing in sufficient amounts to prevent failure is nearly impossible and that is why I have used the heavy gear oil instead of packing the whole thing with grease. If you feel you must use grease then go ahead but use a lithium based water proof grease. This will help protect the parts from rusting when water seeps in but the grease still will not work it's way into the bearing like the oil will. I always just check the oil level every couple of times I use the tiller and don't park it over nice clean concrete unless you have something to protect the floor from any drips. I've just been so busy with other projects I haven't been able to make the (clutch) adjustment , really a cable and idler pulley, video but hopefully I will be able to do that soon. Good luck and read the other post to find details on parts used. Thanks for viewing and feel free to ask any questions as I try to keep track and answer them for people. Please subscribe as I will be adding more videos ho various fix its in the near future. Thanks again and good luck. Peter
Thanks for your quick reply Peter. You mentioned "other" postings in which you recommend the type of oil and or grease. I have searched and am not able to find these. Can you point me in the right direction. Also I am in Canada and I need to replace the large gear with the "T" on top as it has a chipped tooth and the others near it are worn. Where would you suggest I purchase these? Thanks for your help.
Sorry Mel, I just got in here to check it out.. Most automotive stores will carry the gear oil . It is the same oil used in standard transmissions and differentials. Any grease used should be a grease that will not be washed out if water has gotten into the system. The automotive supply store will also carry this. It is a common grease used in wheel bearings for boat trailers.
Hope that helps. I've had a lot of projects going on so I have been a little slow on the response time. Good luck and thanks for viewing. On purchasing the gears I would go to the cub cadet site and look up the part numbers for the gears you need then check Amazon, eBay, parts geek, etc.and a few dealers. A lot of times you can find the same parts with the same part numbers on some of the other manufacturers sites also such as MTD, Craftsman, Troybilt as well. Watch the shipping cost because sometimes they will display a part as cheaper but then charge you a shipping fee that will run the cost up higher than some free shipping. Of course we all know there is nothing that is free they just factor it in but hey it sounds good. LOL Peter
do you know what fluid or transmission fluid we should use
I used 80-90 weight gear oil and I also installed new seals .
If you go through and read a lot of thr remarks posted I have in detail listed all the parts I used. Thanks for watching.
With mine the wheels will turn, but it dies as soon as I try to engage the tines. One shaft seems to have a lot of play. Is it probably that a gear broke inside.
It's one of those magical questions that can only really be answered by tearing it down unfortunately, but to answer your question as best i can here it is. These units commonly get water in through the top around the shaft connected to the shift mechanism. This can wash the grease out of the bearings causing them to fail which in turn causes the shaft to have freeplay which puts the gears in a bind. depending on the particular failure this can result in broken teeth on a gear , the gears jamming, a shaft breaking, possibly major damage with several components ddamaged or broken. Sometimes you can hit a rock or root which can flex the hole housing if the belt doesn't slip which of course will cause the gears to misalign and bind up possibly breaking a tooth or two. One must remember the housing on these tillers aren't like the old Troybilt tillers which were built like a cast iron tractor with a really thick ridged case so when these newly, (POS) engineered thin housings which also support some of the internal shafts which the gears are on flex from someone hitting an object and the tines lock up the belt may slip and burn up but possibly not before the housing flexed from the hit and the internals shifted causing damage. Another problem with these units is they use needle bearing in some places where if the unit has only grease in it then there is little chance of the bearings being able to have lubrication get to them.. When I bought this unit in the video it was completely full of grease and of course the bearings failed because of lack of lubrication breaking teeth off a gear. It's a stupid design to have just grease in where the bearing is in a location to where a semi solid lubricant can't flow to the needle bearings. I have never bought a new one of these unit so I'm not sure, I've heard both stories from people, as to whether they are shipped with just grease or with heavy gear oil in them. I look at it as any other type transmission on any vehicle including tractors and I have yet to see any other transmission with grease only in it . Every one I have worked on through the years had some type of oil in varying viscosities depending on type of transmission and utilization so that is why I cleaned all of the grease out . When I installed the new needle bearings I did pack them with grease for the initial lubrication but eventually the gear oil I filled it with could flow in and lubricate the needle bearings to prevent failure and catestrophic damage. To this date I am still using this tiller and it shifts smoothly with no noise or problems. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for viewing and let us know what you find. As always please subscribe and try to watch this whole video though ti is quite long as it helps on my chanel the longer people watch. I have no problem with you playing it and going to eat dinner while it plays. LOL
Awesome video! This is exactly like my White RotoBoss 650. Would like to know what type & how much gear lube to use.
Hi Tony, reading a previous answer from 4 years ago i used 80-90 weight gear oil and on this particular tiller I used 1 3/4 gallons. Please look up the answer I refered to as it is very detailed with a lot more information on converting to 80-90 gear oil . I can say I am still using this tiller after the rebuild using the 80-90 gear oil with no failures in all these years and it shifts very smoothly just like day one. Thank you for your kind words about the video, Hope this helps.
If looking to buy one used what should I look for in terms of knowing if the gears are still in working order? Just that it goes in forward & reverse and that the tines move when in gear?
Honestly it depends on what kind of deal you want on price and how much work you are willing to put into it once you buy it. Things to check ,1. Does it start easily when cold or is it a fight of many tries possibly even having to use starting fluid ? This could be something as simple as putting a new spark plug in, polishing the rust off the flywheel and coil from it being left out in the rain through the years, rebuilding or replacing the carb, or simply changing the air filter to the engine having internal damage. I would have the unit in neutral and slowing pull the starting cord to see if the engine will rotate without any problem. Then set the choke, make sure it's full of fresh gas as old gas could have water or trash in it, be flat and a bear to get it to fire. If it starts right away great if not then a little work may need to be done just to get the engine going before you can check everything else on the drivetrain. 2. Once started try to shift it in for drive to see if it shifts smoothly and drives forward. Now try reverve both of these without the tines turning. A point to make I want to make here is A. hold the tines up off the ground so they don't drag or if you accidently engaged them that they don't catch the ground , then take off if they catch a root. These things can and will drag you maybe even run over you. That would be very bad. If all is going well try forward drive with the tines turning and the tine depth adjustment set to where it will dig, remember hitting a root or something will make a tiller buck like a horse . All still going well trygoing forward with the tines turning in the reverse position, this is my favorite way to run a tiller. Usually if the tines hit something then it will Jam them and kill the motor, much bette3r than riding a bucking horse. You'll have to clear the debris stuck to continue. These are great machines to pick up used if they need repair and you don't mind the work. I have seen some people actually give one away because something was wrong with it sometimes only ask less than $100 for it. I usually see running machines sell from $ 300 - $ 500 on the want add sites so if you have to pay a little for one and spend a little money and time you are ahead of the game. I'm always looking for a bargan. If you have never used one it wouldn't hurt to ask the seller to run through the tillers operation and even do a demo as I described, they should not mind if everything is in order. Look to see if it's very hard to or won't shift, hard to start, makes a lot of grinding sounds, etc. A good one will start easily with one or two pull shift and operate smoothly. Hope this helps any other questions just holler. Thanks for viewing and hit the like and notification bell.
Just look at it and see if left out side
If so you’ll have to rebuild it before long
Promise
Make sure the wheels and tine assemblies can be removed. I’m having trouble at the moment with the transmission and can’t get in to fix it due to the wheels being frozen to the axel.
Upon having my project in my office and following along with your video, it turns out that whomever had this tiller prior also didn't install the correct jack shaft. The last shaft that you installed doesn't have any grooves for any C clips....grrrr
Judging by the plethora of videos on the internals of this style of rototiller... I think I'll be keeping my distance of this design of machine.
It can be intimidating if you let it but if you take your time , a lot of pictures and this step by step assembly I'm pretty sure you can do it. I hate to tell you but most of the brands of tillers use this design or something very similar, heck some don't even bother to change the parts numbers. Many parts are interchangeable so if one brand is a bit higher you can always look at other brands that have the same exact part for less. As of today it's only a couple months shy of 6 years since this rebuild and mine is still working like it should. Thanks for the viewing and good luck.
Use silicone and #2 grease and 140 w gear oil or 90w if up north
I’ve rebuilt 9 of these
My gearbox has enormous amount of grease. How is best way to clean it out.
Hi Phil, I sent you an email but for here I'll just give the short version. I just used a paint scraper and paper towels to scoop out the bulk of the grease. I also used a little mineral spirits to help wash it out. Dispose of the contaminants according to EPA standards. A hot pressure washer would be great if one is handy but most of us don't have one. A good degreaser and water to finish the cleaning then dry the case with compressed air, setting it out in the sun or I guess if you want swipe the little ladies hair dryer when she's not looking. Hope this helps and Thanks for watching.
Can you tell me what the best way to change the bushing down on the tines shalt and the revbet there three on each side
Honestly James at the moment I had to look at a diagrams because I haven't had to take mine apart anymore. From the diagram I looked at it seems to be a bearing and race not bushings for the tine section. Of course I am not sure what year your tiller is so I looked at a 2003 diagram. This is the diagram I looked at. www.partstree.com/models/rt-35-21a-62m7710-cub-cadet-rear-tine-tiller-2013/transmission-18/
Not sure what you are calling a revbet. I'm sorry, just a bit confused, sometimes people use different terms, could you post a picture then maybe I could help better. You will need new seals also. What year is yours?
I got it fixed I used a bolt and lock nut
@@wildbenny11 thanks for letting know, glad you got it.
Is the trans filled will oil or grease?
Grease
They had grease but I changed to 90 wt, gear oil. Eventually I will change the drive seals to double lipped seals as the dirtb pushes past the stock ones and will cause minor seepage.
Hey Grumpy Mechanic...lol My gears finally showed up once again. Turns out they changed the big gear to a solid gear and they don't mark the top with a T. So they did finally get the other two gears that attach to the chain correct with the inset. So my dilemma is that when I try to change gears with the selector, the slide bar wants to slide out
Trying to remember but it seems like there probably should be a snap ring to retain it. I wish my memory was better but it's been about 4 1/2 years since I made this video and I've never had any more problems where I needed to do any work at all on the tiller. Possibly, and I know it's a pain because the video is so long but it should show if there is a snap ring retainer. I tried to cover each and every tiny piece. Hope you found the problem already sorry it took so long to respond.
i was using mine today, hit a rock and it locked up can put it in gear but it wont move I think a gear is locked up
Could've broke your chain. Be hard to hear if blades were hittin rocks at the time. Take a quick peek at the belts and chain
How did you make the chain case oil bath
All bolts that held the case together I used rubber flat washers under metal flat washers plus I sealed the entire contact area where the case halves come together with Permatex gasket maker. The black if I remember correctly. I also installed new seals. Ideally if you can replace the single lip seals with double lip seals that will prevent the tine axel shaft letting dirt push past a single lip seal causing a leak. I just used the single lip OEM style seals though. I usually check the case oil level anyway and in the years since I made this video I've only had to put a couple of ounces in to bring it back up to level. The tiller shifts very smooth still and I have had 0 problems with the machine.. Helps if you can put one of the rubber flat washers over the shifting shaft at the top of the case to prevent water from getting into the case also. I hope this helped, if not let me know if you need more info and I will try to cover it for you. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe . Have a great day and let us know how it works out for you.
I hate to bother u but what website is best to order parts I watched your video and tore it down but I need parts thank u sir
No problem at all, I put this on to try to help people. This is where I got my bearings and seals from, the black silicon gasket maker I got from an autoparts storre as well as the oil I put in it. The gear I replaced I researched the model number and found the number on a parts schematic. I entered the number and looked at various suppliers on line until I found the best deal. There are a lot of brands of tillers that use the same exact parts heck some even use the same part number so shop around. Sometimes you can find a small shop that has it on their site for cheaper than you can find it on E bay or Amazon. Most seals and bearings have the number on them so check there and type that number in you may be surprised. Hope this helps some.
Map of Mader Bearing Supply, Inc.
See outside
Mader Bearing Supply, Inc.
4.9
7 Google reviews
Bearing supplier in Mobile, Alabama
Address: 156 N Cedar St, Mobile, AL 36603
Hours:
Open ⋅ Closes 5PM
Phone: (251) 433-8418
I sure appreciate it
The second gear shaft that he said should have 2 C clips. Do not have C clips on my RT 65 tiller. Maybe mine broke off and thrown away with the gobs of grease? Or maybe they don't need them? IDK. I think they just made it the same as the other with 1 gear on each end;;; so as not to have 2 different shafts.
????????
Good morning, Does the shaft have groves for c clips ? You have to realize MANY of the name brand tillers use the exact same parts , some even use the same or similar part numbers. How they use them may differ. Sometimes inexperienced or untrained people will attempt repairs as well as some trained people and leave parts out. I always recommend going to your particular brand, model, year, and serial number manuals to review what exactly the company decided to do at said time. What I can say is mine is still working fine after many gardens and years. Some years or models may not even have groves for c clips. You have to remember all of the gear cluster are in the end held in place by the two thin metal covers which especially if you hit big roots , rocks, or other debris will flex under the sudden pressure allowing the gear cluster to flex out of perfect alignment causing broken teeth or other parts. These are not like the old troy bilt tillers that were basically built like tractors and almost never had transmission problems. Hope this may shed some light and you get your tiller up and going. Thanks for viewing and commenting.
where would you suggest for parts / Needle bearings are not listed just the gear.
My jack shaft is a little worn due to the bearings missing /complete dust. The gears seem fine and chain as far as I can tell. Started skipping in tine drive no power to the tines and major grinding when in use, otherwise drive gears are fine and both forward and reverse tine but not in the ground. separated the case and gears fell out, this is how I found you.... lol
Hi, sorry to hear about your tiller but I guess we all are here because of the same problems. I took the old bearing out and got the numbers off the outer race then went to Mader Bearing down town Mobile' Al. I usually do that for any bearings or seals I need. You could do an internet search of course for the part number but I prefer if I can to go as local as I can. Depending on where you live you may have a company like that near you that carries such stuff or you could just call Mader Bearing and give them the numbers off the bearings and seals . They usually will have just about anything you'd need. www.maderbearing.com/ or Phone: (251)433-8418
Fax (251)433-8494 . If you don't know of any place near you like Mader Bearing try calling a few heavy equipment repair places and talk to the shop foreman or manager and he should know of a bearing and seal company nearer to your location. I think I posted my parts numbers on one of my replys to a viewer a couple of years ago If you don't mind scrolling through to find them. Hope this helps, Thanks for viewing
@@PeteplaysaBACH your the best, I appreciate your help. Thank you again.
@@PeteplaysaBACH Well in the end I decided to order the new till gear and Jack shafts along with new bearings from a local shop. Going to try the 90w oil swap. How is yours going
@@joshuapurcell2806 Hope you ordered new seals also. Don't forget the permatex ngasket maker aroung the case lips to seal for the oil. Mines doing great and working smoothly after what is it, 5 years worth of gardens and putting sod down. nI haven't had any problems. Don't forget to grease the bearing before you minstall them and put the oil in as that will have them lubricated from the start until the oil gravitates to them.
Parts store can get the brg
It’s very common
Mine is stuck in neutral. I cannot move the shifter no matter what I do. The wheel shaft rotates about a quarter turn and stops (both directions). This all happened suddenly when I was using it. What might it be?
Hi Jake, sorry it took so long to answer just saw the email.Most likely your bearings have failed on one of the shafts, this could be due to water leaking down the shift tube from washing or being left out in the open. I could have failed from something as simple as the bearings not being lubricated properly. The needle bearings are a little similar to U joint bearings on a vehicle but due to the design if there is only grease in there they have no way to get fresh grease when that grease works it way out or becomes hard and useless from old age. The reason it failed may not be of relevance as you have most likely bearing failure leading to possible gear teeth being broken off. I hate to say it but in order to know for sure unless you have one of the tube camera's to put down the fill hole in the top then you are going to have to disassemble the beast to determine the parts that failed. If you read through some of the comments you will find my replies to what I have done plus there is a link to taking the unit down to where my video starts. I tried to cover as much detail as I could with limited resources and time. Most people have had good results tearing down and replacing the worn parts using this video. The unit is basically just a transmission and that is it. You have a motor , transmission, wheels, and handle. I hope I have answered your question. Just take your time and I suggest as each part you take loose take a picture for your own reference as several brands of Tillers are basically the same even on part numbers, just a different color and name or a little different gearing. Good luck and anymore questions just post and I will try to help you.
@@PeteplaysaBACH Hi Peter I have a MTD rear tine I have it apart and the needle Bearings in the gears are shot could you tell me where you can get the needle bearings MTD says you have to buy the whole gear any help would be thankful
@@kadenmccall7214 yes Terry I got mine from Mader Bearing here in Mobile, Al. I just took the old ones in and they matched up the bearings and the seals. I may have the part numbers listed in one of the replies on here or possibly in a file on the computer. I will see if I can find the list then post the part numbers but pretty sure that they are already listed in another reply. Make sure and grease them good before you install them. Hope this helps . I was just laying in my recliner when my phone notified me of your message . I had been outside in the heat and had fallen asleep. LOL Good Luck. Mader Bearing has offices all over and I am sure just about any Bearing and seal company will carry the needed parts.
Okay, don't believe that I actually found the old bearings and the new bearings boxes. I'll give you the needle bearings first. They had 3 INA bearings # S108 6008500 AND was short some but crossed it over to a Koyo # B-108;PB;L125 . I am going off the memory of a 61 year old so I am not sure what the axel seal # were. I know that I put a single lip seal on the axel but a double lip would be much better. I found two more bearings I believe are the axel bearings. NACHI Quest Bearing # 6203-2NSE9 . I also used rubber flat washers to go behind metal flat washers when I bolted it all together. That would help seal any leakage since I filled the unit with gear oil rather than pack a ton of grease in iy. My preference. My reasoning was where the needle bearings were even though you packed them with a water resistant grease like for boat trailer bearings was that once the grease worked it's way out all the grease in the world packed in the housing would not make it to the needle bearings but an oil would so the bearings would last longer. The rubber flat washers you can get at Lowes or home depot. Hillman part # 880376. The nuts I have an extra set was Hillman # 880622 , they are 7/16 x 20 . I hope this helps some, can't believe I actually found them especially that quick. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Peter tank you for the video. Great stuff. I need a sprocket (part no. 617-0060A). It is unavailable from a supplier that i tried to order one from. It is on back order. No telling when it will be available. Is there a used par supplier bI can contact to get the part? thanks
Hey James, you can google that part number and find other brand tillers that use the same parts, heck some of them even use the same part number. I'll show you a couple, I replaced mine also. www.google.com/search?q=sprocket+(part+no.+617-0060A).&sxsrf=ALeKk02Yez8sSyLjMomBlqq8Z-NG0SyLug:1589079930646&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=yhauplnOr--TkM%253A%252CZAvjF_bXRjo28M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSlxb4x_NQDJkZOz2GjmWZqDxDdVg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiE1KOGqKjpAhUCVN8KHQ_ZAj4Q9QEwAnoECAkQCQ#imgrc=yhauplnOr--TkM: another www.mowpart.com/617-0060-mtd-sprocket-assy-tine.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwqdn1BRBREiwAEbZcRzWBr6J1J2vQsujpDy3DZBQY4XxlwrpCuLqot4REIw2V-4DtLKbnahoCsZMQAvD_BwE another www.troybilt.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/sprocket-assembly-tine-input-9t/617-0060A.html another www.cubcadet.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/sprocket-assembly-tine-input-9t/617-0060A.html another www.searspartsdirect.com/product/5rejok5adg-0071-247/id-617-0060 sometimes you can luck up and find them on ebay or Amazon also. Just compare the prices to see if it includes free shipping or not. What sometimes looks like a great deal turns out to be more when they add a shipping charge. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Great video! I wouldn't even start without having your video in front of me. In shifting I somehow locked up the transmission. I can't get the wheels to free wheel in neutral position or any other position, I can only get tines to turn in reverse (wheels do not turn in any select position) tines will not move forward, in forward position the engine will stall. Any ideas? I guess if not I'll just open it up. Thank again for a great video.
Hi Richard, just happened to be on you tube watching some videos and saw your message. Sorry about your troubles. It almost sounds like your shifting fork is moving and you can move the shifting lever but it's not moving the gear up and down to engage the other gears. Quite possible you have broken some teeth off a gear so if it is moving up and down then there are no teeth to mesh with to engage the other gearing. Of course all this is speculation as I'm not there looking at it with you. Did you hit something or did it just stop ? Sometimes if the bearings, which is most of the time, fail then the gears will shift position some and bind everything up if not just break chunks of a gear off. The tillers are great when they work right but because of the design where they have needle bearings just like for the universal joints on a car drive shaft with no way to really lubricate them besides whatever lubricant leeching past tight tolerances they are destined to fail. There are some simple design changes I would make if the tiller had my name on it but unless I hit the lottery I'm not going to start building tillers. LOL I keep saying I'm going to cross reference the proper shaft seals to use for the tine shaft where it won't leak if you put gear oil in the case instead of grease alone but I've had so many personal events taking place that I have neglected to do so and I apologize for that maybe soon if I can just get a few more problems out of the way then I'll post the upgraded tine shaft seals I'll use next time. I hate to say it after such a long drawn out response but you hit the nail on the head when you said you were going to have to open it up. It's not a difficult job or that time consuming but it can be messy so be ready for that. I hope the video helps you out. Just take a deep breath and go for it. I always recommend using a camera when ever you are working on something like this you've never done and take a lot of pictures as you disassemble it. That will save you a lot of head aches trying to remember where what goes where if it will be several days before you can get back to working on it. Good luck and please let us know what you find and how it works out. Thanks for the attta boy on the video.
Thanks for resonding Peter. Update, no I really didn't hit anything, but I was probably too rough with the shifter. Now the update, I removed the engine, tines, sheet metal, and handle bar. during this process I turned the transmission upside down, when I returned it rightside up I found the wheels were no longer locked, the tine shaft now moves forward and reverse correctly as I move the shifter accordingly. The remaining problem is I can not engage the wheel axle in either shift positions (wheel only or rotate position) I think it's a good possibility the axle chain was broken and locked up the gears until I turned it upside down. My tiller ia a Husqvarna 700DRT which appears to have the same transmission. It has very little use, I bought it from a friend that really hadn't used it and I probably used it for 2 hours. I just need to be a little easy with it going forward. I will open it up next week and give a follow up. Thanks again for the help.
Update, problem found, broken drive chain, and bent wheel axle. I straightened the axle in a press, new chain and gasket going on order. The gear that drives the axle gear is different from the cub cadet RT65 on the Husqvarna, but everything else is the same. Peter again thanks, your video is much better than the parts breakdown.
Glad you got it open. I'd look very close at the bearings and all also while I had it apart. There has to be a reason it broke the chain and bent the shaft. Did yours have just grease or did it have gear oil? Just curious. Glad it was close enough to help you. From my research most of the big name brands are similar and like I said in another post they actually use the same parts number as in my case for the gear I had to get. Smart move using the press. I would have done the same. Unfortunately I no longer have a press and need to get another one day. They are handy to have. I do know that the tillers from what I've read will let water leak into them from the shifting shaft that goes into the case on top as there is not a seal so if they are left outside they will get water in them screwing everything up. Thanks again for the update we all appreciate it.
Yes it had grease, but it is more like playdough than grease ,I'll clean it out and re-grease everything, check the needle bearings, anti-seize the selector shaft ball and spring. You are right water can come into the case through the shifter shaft, I keep it in a garage, but I am sure the previous owner didn't give it the same care. The transmission in the Husqvarna will lock up occasionally it even talks about it in the owners manual. It tells you to disengage the transmission and rock the tiller back and forth. I wasn't too gentle rocking it. You know how it goes when you are half done and want to finish something. I restore antique farm tractors, I don't need to be gentle with them in most cases. Things that haven't been worked on for 50 to 60 years doesn't require gentle. Lesson learned.
The fwd tine gear part # 617-0059 is unavailable.
Hi Paul, Many of the different brands of tillers use some of the same parts some even use the same part number . Check here is one listing you may find others by just typing in tiller parts then the part number. www.mtdparts.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/gear-assembly-forward-tine/917-0059B.html Hope this helps you.
@@PeteplaysaBACH On the inside of the case where the rear tine and the wheel spindle goes thru. I guess that part is pressed in and held together with some type of sealant? The reason that I'm asking is that mine had fallen out since the shafts were not fully cleaned prior to separating the case.
Yeah but I got 5 extra machines for parts
I would not even repair a throw away tiller
Guess you have more money than the rest of us or you get them pretty cheap. These Tiller's run$800,00- $900.00 new. My parts cost me at most $100.00 and most of the Name brand Tillers are nearly alike internally with a lot of them even using the same part with the same part #. I appreciate the comment though. Tillers aren't made like they were 35-45 years ago when a Troybilt was made out of cast iron just like a tractor plus they had a Kholer engine in then then. Hated it when my wife gave mine away when I wasn't home one day.
You keep forgetting where the washer goes so i dont think your very competent in mechanics
Well Julian , you have a right to your opinion, the way I look at it I've been doing mechanic work for over 30 years and I am a Certified Master Mechanic with certifications enough I could sit on them instead of a bar stool. LOL First video , and I have a messed up back and had my right shoulder rebuilt so I was in major pain trying to make this to help people. I could be rude and make all kinds of comments but through my career I've had to go behind too many other mechanics , engineers , and shops to repair their mistakes or solve problems they couldn't. First time into one of the tillers and I had just taken it down ordered parts and cleaned it up so people would be able to clearly see what part went where. Sorry you didn't like it that's okay but you basically just insulted my entire career so I am curious if you are such a perfectionist why you needed to look on here at my video in the first place? Hope you have a great day .
Being competent does not imply a photographic memory. No. But it takes competence to figure out where the parts go.
@@jakejones5736 Thank you Jake , we all get turned around a bit sometimes when you're trying to do multiple things at once. No worries here mines still up and going with no problems and many gardens later. have a great day my friend.
@@PeteplaysaBACH Yup.
He is good, it’s hard to talk and explain while working