I have an 02. I cleaned all the ground points (9). I still had a few issues. Not until I took apart all those plugs that had the multi prongs n cleaned them did I have good results. Open the boxes n clean clean😮 clean. My car has been garage kept since day one. The grounds looked ok. After 20 something yrs they still needed to be cleaned. I had a big difference.
Thanks Froggy! Helped find my electrical issue. For any future readers, if you have any weird voltage readings on the message center or cluster lights and gauges taking a while to come on just clean the grounds! Might be the same issue
Thanks for the info Froggy. I keep those connections sprayed with WD40 so no moisture finds its way into the connectors. Doing this for years and have no grounded issues or codes. :)
Froggy You're awesome! I'm part of the Corvette forum (Bill Curlee) and I have a 50th Anniversary C5 2003, great car the only problem that I have is my my hazard switch gets hot inside and melts causing no turn signals, no hazards and no brake lights and blowing a fuse. I wasn't sure if it was a ground issue or not but by watching your video I think I might be on to something now. Just would like to Thank you very much!
Thanks froggy, I have to check this ground tomorrow actually to make sure it's tight & clean. I replaced the wheel sensor but am still getting the ABS & Traction warning, if it's not the ground wire next stop is the EBCM from what the forums are telling me :p
I know this video is a bit old and maybe you figured this out already but there is also a smaller ground coming right off the battery to a simple eyelet style ground terminal on a post on the frame below the battery. It should be pretty obvious. There is also a very small wire, probably too small, coming out of the bottom of the fuse box near the battery and going to the same post. I didn't see that in the FSM picture you showed so I wanted to point that out since it's in a place thats prone to corrosion if you ever had a leaky battery.
thanks for the tips froggy. i have a c5 that has a history of electrical problems per carfax when i bought it used it was ok. now battery gets drained maybe partly because of flaky grounds,,, the cd changer in trunk and power seats both making noises when they should not.
Check the wiring to the ABS module, that means don't just look at it, take apart & clean use some dielectric & put back together, use a bright light & look closely for any spread connections, or loose, damaged, frayed, etc. All these connections are subject to a lot of vibrations, dirt, heat, etc :)
This is for Sal, YT did an update and I could not reply directly to your comment. Thanks YT. Use a multimeter to find a good ground and don't piggyback on another, too many amps might cause issues with taillights etc. drill new hole next to another grd.
Hey Froggy I'm in the process of doing mine now . The only two left are the ones in the door jams and I'm trying to figure out how go about revealing them from under the trim . How to remove it safely ? I cannot find anything on this . Thanks for your videos
Hi froggy. I watched this videos and you said you opened the boxes and cleaned them. What did you clean them with? Did you clean the contacts?You did not show what was in the boxes so I don't know what to expect.Please elaborate on the cleaning solution and what you cleaned.Thanks.Oh yea should this be a maintenance thing after a certain mileage or just only if you get trouble codes?
Froggy, thank you for this informative video! My DIC is not working after hitting a pretty deep pothole one night a month ago. Someone suggested I clean the grounds. Do you know if ground corrosion could cause the DIC to stop working after hitting a pothole?
What do you recommend I do first? Since there are 13 grounds on the car, maybe you could point me in the direction of the one two or three that may be the culprit
hi thanks for reply. hope all is well. I also thought about the steering boot. I removed my arm rest as you have shown in the past videos to pull my radio to add a signal booster. can I drill through the wall behind the radio? nice flat wall lol. also why is the antenna male on the car so very small for Delco Radio? my booster is larger then female on radio. I got another 12v Booster and same thing. Big male for small female on radio??
Thank you froggy I'm hoping this helps me with my C5. Charge the battery the other day drove the car and put it away went back the next day and the battery was completely dead
Actually froggy I went over today and cleaned the two grounds by the lights and put jumper cables on the vehicle and it started right up I think it was a ground short on the passenger side because I did it before and I had was a clicking noise
@@nicolassmith7158 Hi, I think I have the same problem the car tries to start and after the third or fourth try I hear a clicking sound. You say you clean the two grounds by the two lights What lights the front lights or back lights?
Hi Froggy , I want to run a few wires through the firewall from eng comp. to the inside . Are there any good holes that may have a plug I can't see? that would allow a 1/2" connector to go through? if so where should I look to find. or if Not where would be the best spot to drill through? without hitting something.ThanksSteve
If you have an automatic then yes a lot of electronics involved, if a stick, then there is a 2 to 4 forced shift (which can be bypassed aftermarket) that is electrical.
Hey Froggy, I have an electrical issue with my C5 that I am pretty sure is a ground wire issue when I start my car and let it run for a bit it throws the all gauges and says reduce engine power and inappropriate shock. I took off the door panel and saw that the previous owner or something had done some tinkering with the the wires inside the door boot because the electrical tape was a different color. I was wondering how to clean the grounds what do i I use and what do? my car has less than 11k and shouldn't throw all kinds of codes at once what do you think I should look at first?
Hey Froggy !! Where are the tabs to release the 2 ground points near the headlights ??...want to look at and clean them before I have any issues with a bad ground....my 01 is the same color as yours....nice !!...and BTW where did you get your FSM ??...thanks Buddy !!
froggy , last year I did remove the nut and I tried to put a thin screwdriver and separate the tab...no can do !!...just sprayed some De-Oxit on the back of the terminals...I'm pretty sure the tabs are on the sides as you look down at it... thanks !!
Maybe tonight when I get home from work. I just bought a Power Probe 4 (great tool) and I was checking one of the fuel injectors with it and I looked at the grounds but was going to leave it for another day. Actually just saw another video with the connector apart and I can see where the tabs are !!
Hey Froggy !!Got my ground connector apart this week and lo and behold no vertigris (that's the real name of the "green corrosion")... I cleaned the connector with some fine emery paper and some vinegar which is a mild acid...I bought some spray called Nano Protech and sprayed the connector with this stuff when everything was back together...will do the R/H side which looks a little harder and then try to find the other 11 down the road. Last night I accessed the ECU from the access panel behind the R/H tire and removed the 2 sets of connectors...once again clean as a whistle and no evidence of acid getting on the ECU from the battery above...I know sooner or later the starter will crap out so I'm going to spray all the exhaust system hardware for a couple weeks with Kroil and when I get the nuts removed hopefully without an oxy-acetylene torch I'll wire wheel the studs and then apply anti-seize to everything.
Froggy, I have a C5 and for the life of me I can't get the connector apart on both sides by the headlight buckets... How do you get that darn thing apart ??... My C5 has only 39,000 miles so there should not be that much corrosion !! Thanks !!
Here is a good rule to follow, Neg first, then pos. When done pos. first then neg. I should do a video on this. Great question. You could "probably" clean them without the disconnect, so long as the (master) ignition is off, but why take a chance. Takes 1-2 min to disconnect battery (unless you have a C4, hehe. That was a project just to get to the battery.
I have a 2001 Corvette, bought 4 weeks ago and started having the various electrical problems: passenger door electricals won't work, water temp goes to max., oil pressure gauge goes to zero, engine reduced performance warning, check engine soon comes on, fuel gauges goes to zero, traction control warning, etc. I cleaned/replaced the male portion of 3 of the grounds and sprayed CDC contact cleaner on the female portion but did not physically clean them. How did you clean the female portion? Started car and still doing the same thing after a few minutes. Any ideas?
You are on the right track, IMO connectors are high on the list of culprits, I would read the codes (on c5 you don't need a device - look it up or see my other videos). For female get a good spray elec cleaner & blast, make SURE none are bent, some are NOT easy to unlock/lock. Post back how it goes. The codes may point you to which conn.
@@1947froggy Thanks, there are a lot of codes. I have been trying to look thru the wiring diagrams to determine if there is a common ground that could cause the problem and a few of the problems point to the G202 ground which is on the passenger side on the front door post. But didn't seem to help. It takes about 5 minutes for the following things to pop up: Fuel gage goes to zero Water temp maxs Oil press. goes to zero Engine reduced power ABS error comes on Trac control error on Tach works Amp meter works Nothing on the passenger door works Drivers door lock and mirror works Driver window works sometimes And sometimes it will all start working correctly I drove the car for two weeks before I started having trouble and of course the previous owner never had these issues. Thanks, anything you can offer will is appreciated.
@@1947froggy I found another conversation about the same exact issues I'm having and it turned out to be a bad connection or bad passenger door power module. I have not disconnected mine yet but it definitely at least has a loose or grounded connector. I unlocked the car (using the key because the remote would not operate the locks) and opened the passenger door and strated removing the panel and as I moved it around everything started working. It was late so I closed the doors and used the Remote to lock it and set the alarm. I will fix it tomorrow and let you know. At least 4 of the grounds have been changed.
Froggy, I have a question...... I have a 2002 Z06 and it's pulling codes P1571 and U1040. After doing a lot of research on the problem I see that it all points to grounding problems. I have checked the grounding points that you mentioned and opened up the ground boxes to check for corrosion. The look very clean. Do you know what else I can do to try to fix this problem? I have had the EBCM repaired 2 times and I even bought a new one to find out that it is having the same problem......
@@lv2xlr8svt I didn’t. Wow. Well I hoping that you have GR8 time with C6 . Greetings from North Texas C5 01 candy red “ Little joe Cartwright “ I name it like that .
I got a 01 Z06 and I looked at the ground on the passenger side the second one you looked at g102 I believe. It has the plug type there and the loop type wire is missing! the loop connector is there and the wire is missing. What would that wire connect to?
@@1947froggy I got the traction message which is given, I have a buzzing sound when I turn on radio, it has an aftermarket deck with two lamps and sub. The driver rear brake light don't work, the turn signal does. The hvac ac light stays light too.
@@maliksheba6071 Most of those do not seem related, you need to read the codes and troubleshoot each issue one at a time Start with the brake light, could be the bulb, check/replace the bulb.
@@1947froggy I know the ebcm has to probably be soldered. The brake lights could be faulty hazard switch. I wanted to check grounds first and clean those. I got codes c1214 and u1096. I know grounds can cause issues just wanted to start there.
@@maliksheba6071 1. well just wanted to let everyone with this problem know found a place to get this thing repaired and after talkin with Brandon got him to repair and upgrade it for 150.00 plus 8.00 for return next day air . this is a great price if ya look at cost to replace and customer service was also great. he will gurantee the ecbm for as long as you own the car.So if ya have this problem give him a call , site is absfixer.com or call 877-648-7530 let him know ya heard about him on the form. 2. The name of the company is Auto&Truck Electronics. I am in no way affiliated with them, nor do I recieve any discount or monetary consideration for making this post. I'm making this post in an effort to save you guys some $$$ and hopefully help to prevent future failures given the problematic part could fail again if replaced with another flawed design part(assuming they haven't corrected whatever tends to break). I was a bit leary of this whole deal since I didn't have any references to say it was a good deal, or they did good work etc... So if anything use me as sort of a guinnea pig in this matter. I had a GREAT experience both with the service of the rep and of the part they fixed for me. In my opinion it's $$ well spent to both save alot of $$$, but also, from what I'm lead to believe, have a much smaller chance of having the part break again. They have a 5yr warranty on their work as well. Their # is 1-800-550-0674 Above is for EBCM repair if he is still in business, the virus has messed everyone up. If the u1096 is "H" for history just clear/reset it. Froggy
I get " charging system fault" several times a week. Doesn't show up in the DIC. Doesn't do anything at all that I can find. Noticed if the battery is a little low this occurs.
Shop guys disconnect all sorts of things, whether needed or not. I would tell the shop to fix it. Was ok b4 they touched it. :) Post back what happens.
froggy I did froggy I had to file a complaint with BBB and get a lawyer best one tire and service formally goodyear really screwed me the shop that has it now replaced key and ignition those jerks won’t even take my call I did get it started once ran five minutes put in reverse died after I towed home three months the other shop has had it always treated me good so he’s not charging much but he can’t figure it out either I live in a very small town I know the clutch is a big job on those but I have to go through this legal crap lesson learned if you can thank of anything please email burnskansas@aol.com learned a lot and enjoy your videos
Dielectric Grease is an insulator and should not be applied to any electrical connector. It is used to seal electrical connections from the environment while not providing a path for a spark to ground. A good use is on spark plug boots but not for the electrical connector.
Thanks. In a harsh environment the electrical CONTACT SURFACE eventually deteriorates. The grease appears, in my personal experience, to slow down & even eliminate this deterioration and still allow a good metal to metal contact. I would not put it on contact surfaces that make/break but I like it on surfaces that stay static. In a perfectly controlled environment, I'm sure you are right, it would not be necessary or useful. :)
+Eric M I will reach out to my other viewers on this one. I do know that bleeding the clutch on c5/c6 is not a simple task. Many folks put in remote bleeders when they have it all apart. I never had to bleed my clutch. I do a partial fluid change from the top (see other video) and it stays clean. Why do you think you need to bleed it?
Froggy, please help me, is there a specific ground location that the ac compressor is hooked up to. Im not getting any power to the ac compressor. I know it works fine and i have perfect pressure in the lines. When i turn on the ac the light stays on for a few seconds than turns off. I put a voltmeter to the compressor plug and I am not getting any power to it. I do have a code for left ac actuator short to ground.Please help me. Miami summertime heat sucks. lol
Froggy. left directional 2005 when car is running the parking light is off, also it will not blink, rear drivers side blinks and blinks fast. I have switched the light bulb to the other side and it works, do you think its a ground problem or a bad socket ... I am done with these plastic cars going back to 63 - 67 vet, those are cars, no computer, better parts no plastic crap. My fist Vette was a 63 couple my 2005 is my 16th. The seat switch on the drivers side I can not figure out how to unplug it to replace it. Just pisses me off,plastic shit.need buddy Mike
Probably a bad socket, I have a video on replacing the socket. Do not buy the cheap napa/pep boys one. Get oem or you'll be doing it over in a year. Ask me how I know. ;)
I would first check the release button in the console. I have videos on removing the console storage bin and the little section that has the release button. It's a simple contact switch, check for power there & if the switch works. Multi meter stuff. :)
I have an 02. I cleaned all the ground points (9). I still had a few issues. Not until I took apart all those plugs that had the multi prongs n cleaned them did I have good results. Open the boxes n clean clean😮 clean. My car has been garage kept since day one. The grounds looked ok. After 20 something yrs they still needed to be cleaned. I had a big difference.
Thanks Froggy! Helped find my electrical issue. For any future readers, if you have any weird voltage readings on the message center or cluster lights and gauges taking a while to come on just clean the grounds! Might be the same issue
Thanks for the info Froggy. I keep those connections sprayed with WD40 so no moisture finds its way into the connectors. Doing this for years and have no grounded issues or codes. :)
Sounds good!
Froggy You're awesome! I'm part of the Corvette forum (Bill Curlee) and I have a 50th Anniversary C5 2003, great car the only problem that I have is my my hazard switch gets hot inside and melts causing no turn signals, no hazards and no brake lights and blowing a fuse. I wasn't sure if it was a ground issue or not but by watching your video I think I might be on to something now. Just would like to Thank you very much!
Glad to help Bill, I've "seen" you on the forum.
:)
@@1947froggy wow.....2 major contributors on corvette electrical. thanks!
Thank you Froggy. Lots of useful information and video. I appreciate that. :-)
Thanks.
finaly good info on grounds thank you froggy
Hope it helps, thanks for viewing!
:)
Froggy, You're the best!
Thanks froggy, I have to check this ground tomorrow actually to make sure it's tight & clean. I replaced the wheel sensor but am still getting the ABS & Traction warning, if it's not the ground wire next stop is the EBCM from what the forums are telling me :p
I know this video is a bit old and maybe you figured this out already but there is also a smaller ground coming right off the battery to a simple eyelet style ground terminal on a post on the frame below the battery. It should be pretty obvious. There is also a very small wire, probably too small, coming out of the bottom of the fuse box near the battery and going to the same post. I didn't see that in the FSM picture you showed so I wanted to point that out since it's in a place thats prone to corrosion if you ever had a leaky battery.
Good update thanks ssdwellah!
Thanks Froggy! My car is a '98 C5 and I've r/r'd the battery before. I'll disconnect anyway, to be safe like you said.
Thanks
Dennis
thanks for the tips froggy. i have a c5 that has a history of electrical problems per carfax when i bought it used it was ok. now battery gets drained maybe partly because of flaky grounds,,, the cd changer in trunk and power seats both making noises when they should not.
Check the wiring to the ABS module, that means don't just look at it, take apart & clean use some dielectric & put back together, use a bright light & look closely for any spread connections, or loose, damaged, frayed, etc.
All these connections are subject to a lot of vibrations, dirt, heat, etc
:)
This is for Sal, YT did an update and I could not reply directly to your comment. Thanks YT.
Use a multimeter to find a good ground and don't piggyback on another, too many amps might cause issues with taillights etc. drill new hole next to another grd.
Hey Froggy I'm in the process of doing mine now . The only two left are the ones in the door jams and I'm trying to figure out how go about revealing them from under the trim . How to remove it safely ? I cannot find anything on this . Thanks for your videos
Hi Brian, never did those, sorry.
Good info, thank taking the time to make the video.
Thanks for viewing.
:)
Hi froggy. I watched this videos and you said you opened the boxes and cleaned them. What did you clean them with? Did you clean the contacts?You did not show what was in the boxes so I don't know what to expect.Please elaborate on the cleaning solution and what you cleaned.Thanks.Oh yea should this be a maintenance thing after a certain mileage or just only if you get trouble codes?
I used electrical contact cleaner & fine sandpaper as needed. I would only do it if you are chasing a code.
:)
Froggy, thank you for this informative video! My DIC is not working after hitting a pretty deep pothole one night a month ago. Someone suggested I clean the grounds. Do you know if ground corrosion could cause the DIC to stop working after hitting a pothole?
yep.
What do you recommend I do first? Since there are 13 grounds on the car, maybe you could point me in the direction of the one two or three that may be the culprit
@@johnsanticerma7858 I don't know enough to say which it is, I just start with the easy ones first & work to the hard ones. :)
Thanks froggy. I’ll start with the two by the lights in the engine compartment.
@@johnsanticerma7858 post back how it goes.
going to clean my grounds, hopefully it helps with my c1243 and c1217 codes on my ebcm
Let me know.
:)
hi thanks for reply. hope all is well.
I also thought about the steering boot. I removed my arm rest as you have shown in the past videos to pull my radio to add a signal booster. can I drill through the wall behind the radio? nice flat wall lol.
also why is the antenna male on the car so very small for Delco Radio? my booster is larger then female on radio. I got another 12v Booster and same thing. Big male for small female on radio??
Thank you froggy I'm hoping this helps me with my C5. Charge the battery the other day drove the car and put it away went back the next day and the battery was completely dead
You have a big drain somewhere, anything left plugged in? Radar, audio, camera?
Actually froggy I went over today and cleaned the two grounds by the lights and put jumper cables on the vehicle and it started right up I think it was a ground short on the passenger side because I did it before and I had was a clicking noise
@@nicolassmith7158 Sounds good!
@@nicolassmith7158 Hi, I think I have the same problem the car tries to start and after the third or fourth try I hear a clicking sound. You say you clean the two grounds by the two lights What lights the front lights or back lights?
Hi Froggy , I want to run a few wires through the firewall from eng comp. to the inside . Are there any good holes that may have a plug I can't see? that would allow a 1/2" connector to go through? if so where should I look to find. or if Not where would be the best spot to drill through? without hitting something.ThanksSteve
You might go thru where the steering wheel column goes thru, but get a bright light & look for more.
:)
froggy, do you think this could be the problem with my headlights not popping-up al the time? I thank you in advance.
A bad/ipartial ground is the reason for LOTS of intermittant problems, so yes could be.
:)
Thanks. Do you mean a capacitor in the abs box?
:)
Are the studs permanently held in place, or will they need to be re-tightened from both sides if you loosen them up?
Permanent, unless they fail. Wiggle then to ck.
:)
C5 Vet. My heater control knobs get so hot, you can't touch them. Thoughts?
That's not right if you literally cannot keep your fingers on them, I would pull off the hvac panel & look behind for shorted/melted/other problems
If you have an automatic then yes a lot of electronics involved, if a stick, then there is a 2 to 4 forced shift (which can be bypassed aftermarket) that is electrical.
Hey Froggy, I have an electrical issue with my C5 that I am pretty sure is a ground wire issue when I start my car and let it run for a bit it throws the all gauges and says reduce engine power and inappropriate shock. I took off the door panel and saw that the previous owner or something had done some tinkering with the the wires inside the door boot because the electrical tape was a different color. I was wondering how to clean the grounds what do i I use and what do? my car has less than 11k and shouldn't throw all kinds of codes at once what do you think I should look at first?
charlie lambert You need to use the codes, I have a video on how to get the codes on c5. Start there.
:)
all the codes i Have on it have an H after which means they are active codes the only code i have is LCDM NO COMM.
H means HISTORY, NOT active code.
I think you mean LDCM which is left door control module, start there where the stock wires have been disturbed.
:)
I have some problem.
I have same problem
I cut the box off and soldered on a 10ga. cable with a round lug to bolt to the chassis.
Hey Froggy !!
Where are the tabs to release the 2 ground points near the headlights ??...want to look at and clean them before I have any issues with a bad ground....my 01 is the same color as yours....nice !!...and BTW where did you get your FSM ??...thanks Buddy !!
You should unbolt it (1 nut) from the inner fender and you will see the tabs, it's a little tricky to release them.
:)
froggy , last year I did remove the nut and I tried to put a thin screwdriver and separate the tab...no can do !!...just sprayed some De-Oxit on the back of the terminals...I'm pretty sure the tabs are on the sides as you look down at it... thanks !!
Give another try, not easy, but they do come apart. Patience.
:)
Maybe tonight when I get home from work. I just bought a Power Probe 4 (great tool) and I was checking one of the fuel injectors with it and I looked at the grounds but was going to leave it for another day. Actually just saw another video with the connector apart and I can see where the tabs are !!
Hey Froggy !!Got my ground connector apart this week and lo and behold no vertigris (that's the real name of the "green corrosion")... I cleaned the connector with some fine emery paper and some vinegar which is a mild acid...I bought some spray called Nano Protech and sprayed the connector with this stuff when everything was back together...will do the R/H side which looks a little harder and then try to find the other 11 down the road. Last night I accessed the ECU from the access panel behind the R/H tire and removed the 2 sets of connectors...once again clean as a whistle and no evidence of acid getting on the ECU from the battery above...I know sooner or later the starter will crap out so I'm going to spray all the exhaust system hardware for a couple weeks with Kroil and when I get the nuts removed hopefully without an oxy-acetylene torch I'll wire wheel the studs and then apply anti-seize to everything.
great vid thanx
There is a very important ground under the battery box.
Is this for battery in the engine bay? :)
Froggy, I have a C5 and for the life of me I can't get the connector apart on both sides by the headlight buckets... How do you get that darn thing apart ??... My C5 has only 39,000 miles so there should not be that much corrosion !! Thanks !!
Here is a good rule to follow,
Neg first, then pos.
When done pos. first then neg.
I should do a video on this.
Great question.
You could "probably" clean them without the disconnect, so long as the (master) ignition is off, but why take a chance. Takes 1-2 min to disconnect battery (unless you have a C4, hehe. That was a project just to get to the battery.
Froggy, do I have to remove my neg. battery terminal before opening these ground pack connectors on the front frame rails? Thanks "FixVet" aka Dennis
I have a 2001 Corvette, bought 4 weeks ago and started having the various electrical problems: passenger door electricals won't work, water temp goes to max., oil pressure gauge goes to zero, engine reduced performance warning, check engine soon comes on, fuel gauges goes to zero, traction control warning, etc.
I cleaned/replaced the male portion of 3 of the grounds and sprayed CDC contact cleaner on the female portion but did not physically clean them.
How did you clean the female portion?
Started car and still doing the same thing after a few minutes.
Any ideas?
You are on the right track, IMO connectors are high on the list of culprits, I would read the codes (on c5 you don't need a device - look it up or see my other videos). For female get a good spray elec cleaner & blast, make SURE none are bent, some are NOT easy to unlock/lock. Post back how it goes. The codes may point you to which conn.
@@1947froggy
Thanks, there are a lot of codes. I have been trying to look thru the wiring diagrams to determine if there is a common ground that could cause the problem and a few of the problems point to the G202 ground which is on the passenger side on the front door post. But didn't seem to help.
It takes about 5 minutes for the following things to pop up:
Fuel gage goes to zero
Water temp maxs
Oil press. goes to zero
Engine reduced power
ABS error comes on
Trac control error on
Tach works
Amp meter works
Nothing on the passenger door works
Drivers door lock and mirror works
Driver window works sometimes
And sometimes it will all start working correctly
I drove the car for two weeks before I started having trouble and of course the previous owner never had these issues.
Thanks, anything you can offer will is appreciated.
If the codes are all over look at the conn in the pass side rear wheel well area, need to remover a panel, it's a MAIN connector, could get water in?
@@1947froggy
I found another conversation about the same exact issues I'm having and it turned out to be a bad connection or bad passenger door power module. I have not disconnected mine yet but it definitely at least has a loose or grounded connector. I unlocked the car (using the key because the remote would not operate the locks) and opened the passenger door and strated removing the panel and as I moved it around everything started working. It was late so I closed the doors and used the Remote to lock it and set the alarm.
I will fix it tomorrow and let you know.
At least 4 of the grounds have been changed.
@@williamhatmaker7238 That's it if moving pass door caused it to work, good one.
Froggy, I have a question......
I have a 2002 Z06 and it's pulling codes P1571 and U1040. After doing a lot of research on the problem I see that it all points to grounding problems. I have checked the grounding points that you mentioned and opened up the ground boxes to check for corrosion. The look very clean. Do you know what else I can do to try to fix this problem? I have had the EBCM repaired 2 times and I even bought a new one to find out that it is having the same problem......
Did you fixed it ??
Just wondering
@@Amarillobymorning777 I believe so but can’t remember how. The car ended up getting flooded so I’ve had a C6 Z06 since.
@@lv2xlr8svt
I didn’t.
Wow.
Well I hoping that you have GR8 time with C6 .
Greetings from North Texas
C5 01 candy red
“ Little joe Cartwright “
I name it like that .
I got a 01 Z06 and I looked at the ground on the passenger side the second one you looked at g102 I believe. It has the plug type there and the loop type wire is missing! the loop connector is there and the wire is missing. What would that wire connect to?
Could be previous owner modified. If all accessories work, don't worry.
:)
@@1947froggy I got the traction message which is given, I have a buzzing sound when I turn on radio, it has an aftermarket deck with two lamps and sub. The driver rear brake light don't work, the turn signal does. The hvac ac light stays light too.
@@maliksheba6071 Most of those do not seem related, you need to read the codes and troubleshoot each issue one at a time Start with the brake light, could be the bulb, check/replace the bulb.
@@1947froggy I know the ebcm has to probably be soldered. The brake lights could be faulty hazard switch. I wanted to check grounds first and clean those. I got codes c1214 and u1096. I know grounds can cause issues just wanted to start there.
@@maliksheba6071 1. well just wanted to let everyone with this problem know found a place to get this thing repaired and after talkin with Brandon got him to repair and upgrade it for 150.00 plus 8.00 for return next day air .
this is a great price if ya look at cost to replace and customer service was also great. he will gurantee the ecbm for as long as you own the car.So if ya have this problem give him a call , site is absfixer.com or call 877-648-7530 let him know ya heard about him on the form.
2. The name of the company is Auto&Truck Electronics. I am in no way affiliated with them, nor do I recieve any discount or monetary consideration for making this post. I'm making this post in an effort to save you guys some $$$ and hopefully help to prevent future failures given the problematic part could fail again if replaced with another flawed design part(assuming they haven't corrected whatever tends to break). I was a bit leary of this whole deal since I didn't have any references to say it was a good deal, or they did good work etc...
So if anything use me as sort of a guinnea pig in this matter. I had a GREAT experience both with the service of the rep and of the part they fixed for me. In my opinion it's $$ well spent to both save alot of $$$, but also, from what I'm lead to believe, have a much smaller chance of having the part break again. They have a 5yr warranty on their work as well. Their # is 1-800-550-0674
Above is for EBCM repair if he is still in business, the virus has messed everyone up. If the u1096 is "H" for history just clear/reset it.
Froggy
How do you find the electrical grounds to start a 1986 Corvette
Almost every year different, buy an old factory service manual for that year.
I get " charging system fault" several times a week. Doesn't show up in the DIC. Doesn't do anything at all that I can find. Noticed if the battery is a little low this occurs.
All I suggest is what's in the video. Did you do it all?
Is there a trick to actually disassembling the plug itself? I cant figure out how to expose the blades to check them.
I show it @ 8:00, tabs to be depressed at the end near the ground to chassis bot sides IIRC.
Hello, just want know if you have any information on how to replace an electric antenna mask on a 2000 c5 convertible?
Vountria Moss No I don't, sorry, mine is "fixed" not electric (up/down).
2024 thank u
Hi Froggy, I have a 97 C5 and the speedometer drop to 0 when driving at different speeds, it's not showing a code. What do think the problem is.
Some thing in the dash module, which doesn't really help much, I know. Never had to troubleshoot this one, sorry.
:)
Froggy I had a clutch put in at a shop on my 99 vette it’s started immediately idled back down and turns but won’t fire hasn’t fired since just turns
Shop guys disconnect all sorts of things, whether needed or not. I would tell the shop to fix it. Was ok b4 they touched it.
:)
Post back what happens.
froggy I did froggy I had to file a complaint with BBB and get a lawyer best one tire and service formally goodyear really screwed me the shop that has it now replaced key and ignition those jerks won’t even take my call I did get it started once ran five minutes put in reverse died after I towed home three months the other shop has had it always treated me good so he’s not charging much but he can’t figure it out either I live in a very small town I know the clutch is a big job on those but I have to go through this legal crap lesson learned if you can thank of anything please email burnskansas@aol.com learned a lot and enjoy your videos
@@mikeburns4263 Punctuation sorely lacking. Hard to follow your post.....
I have a code of u0107 miscommunication with the throttle actuator module. Just need to confirm if that's a ground problem
Can't say from the info you provide, could be module itself.
Do you have a video showing how to remove the trim in the hatch area. Thanks!
Never did that, sorry.
:)
Thanks!
I hope that fixes the problems on my 2000 C5. Good info.! Cause ABSfixer can't fix a 2000 model. CIN motorsport of Charlotte, NC is worth a dang!
Worth a try, some of these grounds get pretty cruddy.
was the ground the issue? I have the same problem, I will need to check some ground and do some cleanup...
CIN motorsport in Charlotte NC doesn't not warranty their labor. WTF! Did warranty the $150 part but not the $400+ labor. Straight rats!
+David Lee I think this kind of repair is better done by the owner. Dealership or other cannot be trusted..
Dielectric Grease is an insulator and should not be applied to any electrical connector. It is used to seal electrical connections from the environment while not providing a path for a spark to ground. A good use is on spark plug boots but not for the electrical connector.
Thanks. In a harsh environment the electrical CONTACT SURFACE eventually deteriorates. The grease appears, in my personal experience, to slow down & even eliminate this deterioration and still allow a good metal to metal contact.
I would not put it on contact surfaces that make/break but I like it on surfaces that stay static.
In a perfectly controlled environment, I'm sure you are right, it would not be necessary or useful.
:)
good info, but instead of using using a flashlight to point to small objects. try get a laser pointer.
+Richard A. Snitzer Yes, I need a flashlight with a pointer built in, that would be "trick".
Do u know where gas door ground wire is?
Not off hand, is the door not popping open when you press the button?
:)
Hey Froggy can you tell me where the O2 sensor is on the passenger side wiring harness . and do you have video on Bleeding the clutch on a C6, Thanks
+Eric M I will reach out to my other viewers on this one. I do know that bleeding the clutch on c5/c6 is not a simple task. Many folks put in remote bleeders when they have it all apart. I never had to bleed my clutch. I do a partial fluid change from the top (see other video) and it stays clean. Why do you think you need to bleed it?
+froggy I put a new clutch , plate and slave bearing in it
Yes then if you did all that, you should bleed the slave, I don't have a video for that, sorry.
:)
thanks
I have an 04 corvette no codes but it's cutting off in drive and reverse and killing the battery after 4 or 5 times restarting
Do you mean it stalls? Many restarts will of course kill a battery, it seems very unusual that no codes appear, can you ck codes again? Thanks!
can incorrect wiring affect the transmission?? my transmission doesnt go from 2nd to 3rd or 4th.
Nope you're 4l60 took a dump 3-4 clutch pack is burnt up
Underneath the battery
under battery, by doors and in rear and roof
Thanks!
Did it fix it or not? geez dude.....interesting but you could have mentioned if it helped
"Maybe" it never came back.
Froggy, please help me, is there a specific ground location that the ac compressor is hooked up to. Im not getting any power to the ac compressor. I know it works fine and i have perfect pressure in the lines. When i turn on the ac the light stays on for a few seconds than turns off. I put a voltmeter to the compressor plug and I am not getting any power to it. I do have a code for left ac actuator short to ground.Please help me. Miami summertime heat sucks. lol
I don't know which it is, but ck the fuse. Also how did you measure the pressure of refrigerant?
:)
10 grounds total
99 c5 corvette electrical problems - UA-cam
same problem .
under the battery box and starter ground are GM c5 trouble shooting charging system failed .
Thanks.
:)
Froggy. left directional 2005 when car is running the parking light is off, also it will not blink, rear drivers side blinks and blinks fast. I have switched the light bulb to the other side and it works, do you think its a ground problem or a bad socket ... I am done with these plastic cars
going back to 63 - 67 vet, those are cars, no computer, better parts no plastic crap. My fist Vette was a 63 couple my 2005 is my 16th. The seat switch on the drivers side I can not figure out how to unplug it to replace it. Just pisses me off,plastic shit.need buddy Mike
Probably a bad socket, I have a video on replacing the socket. Do not buy the cheap napa/pep boys one. Get oem or you'll be doing it over in a year. Ask me how I know.
;)
Helm Inc Publishing for GM SERVICE MANUALS $230!!
Yep.
:)
,
no
I would first check the release button in the console. I have videos on removing the console storage bin and the little section that has the release button. It's a simple contact switch, check for power there & if the switch works. Multi meter stuff.
:)