@@TheNewbieWoodworker Isn't that adorning yourself with borrowed plumes? ;) I have a question: When you showed cutting through the tape the riving knife wasn't installed, was it? At least with my saw that does not work when it is installed.
@@wolfgang4468 Yeah, I struggled with what to say about the riving knife. Here's what I did: I removed the riving knife to cut through the tape, and I left it off when cutting the strips, because I'd have to remove the tape to re-install the riving knife. I think this is probably perfectly safe, but I didn't want to say it in the video, because, well, you know, sometimes people sue people. 🙄Let me know what you decide, and if you have other ideas.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Pro tip - Use 2 pieces of tape with the crease over the blade and sneak the knife/ blade up. People act like not using the knife is deplorable. Your safety is measured in your understanding of the forces that cause kickback. Pretend the cut is like a golf swing, follow through with confidence.
Works a charm! And my long-experienced spouse was amazed at this tip and others I have learned on UA-cam. He'd not thought of using tape for a quick zero clearance. The tape trick also works for a temporary zero clearance insert on a compound miter saw. Ours does not have a zero clearance, and usually that's not needed. But we are cutting a lot of smaller stuff -- mouldings. I saw this on an old website for finish carpentry and thought, "duh." So I grabbed duct tape, which is what they used. (Note to self, they are now selling duct tape that isn't real duct tape, pay attention in stores from here on out, it's more like a union of duct tape and a colored box tape! And it says "decor" on it! The tape is thin enough that I used two strips layered up to make it more robust.) Extremely helpful for positioning miters!
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
FINALLY!!! I'm pretty new to tablesawing, and got my saw only a couple of days ago. I have watched hundred's of videos on jigs for thin strips, and making insertplates.. Finally a video with a simple solution on my problems. That tapehack, was GENIOUS!!!!!!! THX THX THX!!!
Super helpful, thank you. Especially the tape tip. I was thinking I was going to have to figure out how to make a zero clearance insert. Now I can do that later when I have more time.
Thank you for your guidance and letting us know the simple method of doing the work. Kindly note that the thickness of a normal tablesaw blade is about 3.2 mm it is possible to use blade of less thickness. For example 6 inch blades are available in 1.8 mm thickness thus one may increase the number of strips per board.
You're welcome! It's possible it won't be consistent enough for what you're talking about, depending on your fence alignment, etc. But like I said, it's simple enough to try. 😄
Thanks for the info! I almost cut my hand doing thin strips at my first woodworking job today, I had to do trim for cabinets my boss had me installing. I was really scared to use the table saw for this because I play guitar and if I lose a finger I'd be bummed out. I can't wait to make a push block for my next job
Excellent suggestions. I would suggest not cutting a strip narrower than the gap in the plate behind the saw blade, not just between the blade and the plate) Note this gap would only exist if your blade was not at it's maximum height). I would also suggest you ensure the piece you are cutting is long enough to get good support on the front table and the back table at the same time and to never use a thin push stick that might slip off the work piece (your use of a 2x4 is probably critically important to maintain control of the work piece). As I pushed a strip through using a push stick like yours only much thinner, when the piece was cut off the end of it was still over the slot behind the blade. It dipped into the slot behind the blade and was flipped vertical, then fell back down onto the blade and was fired directly backwards out of the saw hitting me in the arm. Thankfully I was standing to the side of the saw to avoid kickback, and I was hit with the blunt end of the work peice, but nonetheless the strip, (which was no bigger than a pencil), left a 3 inch bruise on my arm and a small hole in the skin. So wear some eye protection, cut longer strips not short ones, and use a wide push stick like you designed not a narrow one. And only cut strips wider than the slot behind the blade (or raise the blade to eliminate the gap). And never assume a small piece can't take out your eye or cut an artery when it's travelling several hundred miles an hour. (PS I wonder if the tape could be easily torn by the work peice and might even force the work piece downwards behind the blade?)
Thanks for the good suggestions. I don't know about the tape issue, but it's "safe" to say that anything that could go wrong, might, so you've given some great advice about being prepared. Thanks! 😄
I’ve been struggling for a week trying to make a zero tolerance plate for my old Craftsman 113. The stock plate is 1/8” steel so too thin for most materials. Your solution? Painter’s tape, genius! Thanks
LOL, glad it helped! I learned it from someone else, of course, although I have no idea who. That's one of the things I both love and hate about UA-cam - you can find great tips in the middle of other videos. It's awesome, because you never know what you'll learn. And it also sucks, because you can't really search for them. "Now where did I see that tip about...?" Anyway, glad I helped. 😄
I'm new to woodworking and love your channel. Could you do a piece on using bits and disks in unique ways? Foe example; can I put a spiral saw bit in my trim router...can I put my router bits in my spiral saw...can I use a grinding wheel in my hand held drill...what happens if I put a bullet drill bit in a router? Thanks! BTW, I posted here because I couldn't find a way to post general questions on the community site. Apologies for using the wrong thread.
Thanks for the comment - I don't care where you posted it. 😄And by all means, let me know what you want to see, although there's no guarantee I'll be able to do it. In answer to your question, to be honest, I don't have a clue about any of that. Most of it sounds dangerous to me. As for putting a grinding wheel in your drill, I suspect that's doable, but I'd lean towards a Dremel first (although I'm not a huge fan of Dremels except for small work). With that said, I did a quick UA-cam search and found some videos, so that's probably your best bet. Just be careful - it's *so* easy to get hurt when you're not using tools the way they were designed. That doesn't mean not to do it, it just means, well, be careful! 😄 And if you're looking to do a specific thing, I'd check Amazon to see if there actually is an attachment designed for what you're trying to do. It's amazing what's available these days! Thanks again for the question(s).
You can cut 1/2" strips easily without any additional jigs. Just make a push stick out of 3/8" or 1/4" thick plywood. The problem is cutting really thin strips, 3/8" or thinner, because you can't safely use a push stick between the blade and the fence at such thickness.
Simple and efffective. I noticed your push block is almost as long as the strips being cut. How would it work for longer cutting longer strips? Let say 4 to 5ft. Thanks.
Thanks. Personally, if I were going to try and cut thin strips that long, I think I'd try to make a jig of some kind. At the very least, one or two featherboards. But I've never tried it, so that's just my 2-cents worth. 😄
Just paint it black (like the Rolling Stones), green (like Matthias Wandel) or pink (like Steve Ramsey) and you'll never mix up your push block with a piece of scrap wood. What was the thinnest strip you have cut with it? I'd need 3 or 4 mm (1/8 or 1/6 of an inch) Is it possible with this system?
Thanks - the paint's a good idea. The thinnest strip I cut was 1/8". Although that's not true - I cut some too thin, so thinner than 1/8". I think it depends on your saw and fence, and how steady your hand is, when you get much thinner.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thanks for the information. I paint all my jigs which don't look like jigs. Lost too many of them already. They probably ended in the scrap bin and later in the wood stove. A few minutes (or even less) heath for an hour work is not really time-efficient.
I’m new to using a table saw so have a question… my Irving knife is higher than my blade, so would I need to remove the roving knife to use a block as you’re doing? Or is there an alternative. Thanks
The zero clearance tape is a good idea, but cutting thin pieces between the blade and the fence creates an opportunity to turn the trapped piece into a wooden bullet aimed right atcha. I, too, use the Indra jig, but it’s not hard to make an adjustable one from wood scraps.
Noticed you moved up to the big SawStop table saw and is that a Skyline in your garage? Tape trick is awesome and will work wonders until I get to make my own inserts.
Yeah, love the new SawStop. ua-cam.com/video/GTVLeeUJFHI/v-deo.html. I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean by "Skyline". Yeah, the tape trick is cool. Thanks! 😄
When I use a table saw witch this is my 2nd year in woodworking if something ain’t right I stop like when I was ripping some thing on table saw the board was wanting to lift up so I just stoped then I was not putting enough pressure on the board is what happened I’m thinking about getting a sawstop
Just out of curiosity, why would you not cut the strip off of the workpiece on the outside of the blade, rather than having the potential for pinch between blade and strip and the resulting kickback?
I like this idea because it is so damn simple. Everyone else pushes elaborate push sticks and this is 12 inces of a $2 2x4.. I made an inlay painting frame and I have gotten orders foir six more so thes small strips will be handy. I bought my first pin nailer and it was pretty exciting. I have not found a flaw in it yet. I bought the Harbor Freight model and my only concern is that it only shoots up to one inch pin nails. The more expensive then the $22 I spent shoot up to 2 inch pin nails.. I know there will be some application I need it for..but we will see. I am mentioning this because it might make a good vid for you. If you can get a free sample get two and remember your fan Bob..lol. Have a merry christmas!!!
Thanks! The only thing I can quibble about is the price of the 2x4 (2x6, actually). When I went to my local HD to get one, all the 2x6's were soaked (it had been raining for a week). So I ended up buying a redwood 2x6, and it cost more. 😂As for the nailers, I don't currently have a need for ones that can't shoot pins through Baltic birch plywood. And if I want one of those, it'll have to be air driven, and I don't want a compressor. So, sorry, I can't get you a freebie. 😛They wouldn't give me one, anyway. 😏
@@TheNewbieWoodworker thats ok. It is great for me since I do alot of small pieces for picture frames. Clamps and super glue have draw backs. I have asked Santa for the saw in your last vid.
Thanks! That's a SawStop PCS (Professional Cabinet Saw): ua-cam.com/video/GTVLeeUJFHI/v-deo.html. I previously had a SawStop JSS (JobSite Saw): ua-cam.com/video/3zbYR5ok1V0/v-deo.html. I highly recommend either, because: ua-cam.com/video/OouPywNRZJ8/v-deo.html.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Yep I see that. I've watche da bunch of these. Many talk about avoiding the right side as the thin piece can get caught and kickback or go down into the saw gap. You have minimised this issue with blue tape and the saw block jig. Thanks for the response!
raise the blade just till the riving knife touches the tape,then lower the blade, cut the rest of the tape with a razor knife where the indention is so the riving knife can come through. works on my saw. But!! if you swap out the 10" blade for a 7 1/4 blade your riving knife might not reach the top of the blade like it's suppose to.
Spent an hour trying to figure out a speedy way to do this last night and ended up doing it the much harder way! Always looks so simple AFTER I see someone else's idea! 😂
I thought we were supposed to have the off cut against the fence? And then I use a push block and a push stick (or my hands ) and I would feed the piece all the way through. If it's for thin strips even if it gets kicked back it's too light to do anything. If you put the fence between your stock and the blade, if you do get kickback the bigger piece will get shot out at your body. I could be totally wrong but I used to do it like the video and I got a piece shot at my hand. So now I put the off cut against the fence. And just go ahead and push it all the way through. Or, you can turn the piece over and continue the cut from the other end. My 2c
I don’t get it, the first 2:30 are a series of cuts, measurements, painters tape, but then at 2:40 the painters tape is gone and you just do the obvious, push the wood through with a block on top. What’s the point of the first 2:30 then? Is that just a video editing mistake?
Actually, what I was saying starting somewhere around 1:50, is that if you have a zero-clearance insert plate, then you're fine, but if not, you can use some painters tape to help keep anything from dropping down the opening.
I've never heard of that being a problem, unless you actually touch the blade with the fence. But I could be wrong, so if you have any information on why this is a bad idea, please let me know! Thanks.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I think it was both for the risk of damaging the fence indeed (in which case I believe you can just add a sacrificial fence?) and for the risk of kickback? I definitely can be wrong, naming me newbie is a huge understatement 😅
@@clarissepotriquet7451 One of my biggest fears is showing something that could get people hurt, so I'm glad you said something, regardless of the outcome! Yes, you can certainly use a sacrificial fence, if you're worried. As for kickback, I can't see the thin strip causing kickback. But if you pinched the blade by pushing the stock on the other side of the blade too hard against the back of the blade, it could kick back. But that doesn't have anything to do with the fact we're cutting thin strips. If you haven't seen it yet, see my video on kickback: ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I actually tried standing to the right myself after commenting this and realized I couldn't see the blade over the fence so nvm lol
@@parkerjacobsen1220 It was a good question. I think it's smart to ask those kinds of questions. When you find out the answer, it adds a little more knowledge to the memory banks, which can only help. :)
@@elfpimp1 Actually, the reason I didn't say anything is because I'd think the paint sticks would be better than whatever you cut yourself. I could be wrong, though, so like I said, I just replied with 😄. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker hehehehe!!! The cut strips? I'd use them to fill cracks in boards, or gaps between planks, it'd save on the amount of wood filler I'd have to use. There's a million and one things those could be used for.. so, I'll take the stir sticks AND the cut strips!!
@@elfpimp1 Good idea. Speaking of wood filler, do you have any tips on keeping FamoWood from drying out? My last tub of it dried out, so I'm thinking of getting one of those vacuum bottles and see if that helps. Any thoughts?
This would have been more useful if you showed how to cut thin strips to a specific size. Setting the fence seems, at least to me, to be the challenge.
🤣😂😆 I literally died laughing 40 seconds into the video! The Newbie Woodworker is so me! 🤦🏻♂️ But we have fun and make cool stuff! Thank you for this PERFECT video! 😅 Your newest follower, -Mike 😎
Thanks, Mike! For a long time, I always felt like if I had video of how I acted all the time, it would help me understand myself better. Be careful of what you wish for! 😂 And welcome aboard. 😄
The painters’ tape zero clearance insert is a great idea. 👏
Thanks! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Isn't that adorning yourself with borrowed plumes? ;) I have a question: When you showed cutting through the tape the riving knife wasn't installed, was it? At least with my saw that does not work when it is installed.
@@wolfgang4468 Yeah, I struggled with what to say about the riving knife. Here's what I did: I removed the riving knife to cut through the tape, and I left it off when cutting the strips, because I'd have to remove the tape to re-install the riving knife. I think this is probably perfectly safe, but I didn't want to say it in the video, because, well, you know, sometimes people sue people. 🙄Let me know what you decide, and if you have other ideas.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Pro tip - Use 2 pieces of tape with the crease over the blade and sneak the knife/ blade up. People act like not using the knife is deplorable. Your safety is measured in your understanding of the forces that cause kickback. Pretend the cut is like a golf swing, follow through with confidence.
@@alexisjust9269 "Pretend the cut is like a golf swing" - well, that means I'll slice it for sure. 😂Thanks for the info.
This is the fourth or fifth video of how to make thin strips. Wish I had started here first. Nicely done. Tape trick is a bonus!!
Thanks. And that's the way it works sometimes. You surf around until something "speaks your language" - it's happened to me a bunch of times too.
I THINK THIS IDEA IS THE SIMPLEST ON THE INTERNET. EASY TO MAKE. THANKS
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
Works a charm! And my long-experienced spouse was amazed at this tip and others I have learned on UA-cam. He'd not thought of using tape for a quick zero clearance. The tape trick also works for a temporary zero clearance insert on a compound miter saw.
Ours does not have a zero clearance, and usually that's not needed. But we are cutting a lot of smaller stuff -- mouldings. I saw this on an old website for finish carpentry and thought, "duh." So I grabbed duct tape, which is what they used. (Note to self, they are now selling duct tape that isn't real duct tape, pay attention in stores from here on out, it's more like a union of duct tape and a colored box tape! And it says "decor" on it! The tape is thin enough that I used two strips layered up to make it more robust.) Extremely helpful for positioning miters!
That's awesome, and glad I could help! UA-cam is a wealth of information - a neighbor calls it "the university of UA-cam". 😄
Your projects are easy to understand and make, thanks and stay safe
Thanks, you're welcome, and you too. 😄
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
👍
Great tip on the zero clearance insert using masking tape. I was getting ready to start making some out of plywood. You saved me a day! ;-)
Glad I could help! 😄
FINALLY!!! I'm pretty new to tablesawing, and got my saw only a couple of days ago. I have watched hundred's of videos on jigs for thin strips, and making insertplates.. Finally a video with a simple solution on my problems. That tapehack, was GENIOUS!!!!!!! THX THX THX!!!
Glad I could help! 😄
I like that it keeps your fingers well away from the blade. Another great video!
Thanks. Keeping fingers away from the blade is good, I agree. 😄
After so many videos that ive watched i finally came to the perfect solution! Thank you!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
I have been woorking with a table saw for a while now and im hapoy to tell you that i used some of ypur great methods thank you, youre a good man
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. 😄
woooooow so much work went into this 4 minutes video!! thanks I was looking exactly for that to make ash wood strips to weave baskets
Thanks for appreciating the work! It really does take a lot of work to produce a short, concise video. So thanks again! 😄
Super helpful, thank you. Especially the tape tip. I was thinking I was going to have to figure out how to make a zero clearance insert. Now I can do that later when I have more time.
Glad I could help! 😄
Nice solution with the painters tape. Clever.
Thanks! 😄
Cool, now I can start that tongue depressor business I always wanted lol
Paint & epoxy stirrers too.
...I use thin strips for edge banding plywood.
@@robira1313 That makes sense! I was sure paint stirrers and tongue depressors were not the point. :)
@@robira1313 👍
@@MiniLuv-1984 😂
Love the painter's tape idea to keep thin strip from fall in. Thanks 👍😉
You're quite welcome! 😄
I always enjoyed your videos and honestly.That’s a nice table saw u got.
Thanks! 🙂
Thank you for your guidance and letting us know the simple method of doing the work. Kindly note that the thickness of a normal tablesaw blade is about 3.2 mm it is possible to use blade of less thickness. For example 6 inch blades are available in 1.8 mm thickness thus one may increase the number of strips per board.
Thanks for the info.
This is a perfect way for model makers to cut wood to the exact thickness, width and lengths they want inexpensively.......Great thanks. Anaco, Anz.
You're welcome! It's possible it won't be consistent enough for what you're talking about, depending on your fence alignment, etc. But like I said, it's simple enough to try. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I think taking it slow and easy with a decent, thinish veneer blade would cut them just fine.
@@buddyhutchins3782 Cool! If you end up trying it. let me know how it works. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Will do..... Merry Christmas..!
@@buddyhutchins3782 You too!
Thanks for the info! I almost cut my hand doing thin strips at my first woodworking job today, I had to do trim for cabinets my boss had me installing. I was really scared to use the table saw for this because I play guitar and if I lose a finger I'd be bummed out. I can't wait to make a push block for my next job
I play guitar too, and yes, that would be horrible! Stay safe. 😄
Excellent suggestions. I would suggest not cutting a strip narrower than the gap in the plate behind the saw blade, not just between the blade and the plate) Note this gap would only exist if your blade was not at it's maximum height). I would also suggest you ensure the piece you are cutting is long enough to get good support on the front table and the back table at the same time and to never use a thin push stick that might slip off the work piece (your use of a 2x4 is probably critically important to maintain control of the work piece). As I pushed a strip through using a push stick like yours only much thinner, when the piece was cut off the end of it was still over the slot behind the blade. It dipped into the slot behind the blade and was flipped vertical, then fell back down onto the blade and was fired directly backwards out of the saw hitting me in the arm. Thankfully I was standing to the side of the saw to avoid kickback, and I was hit with the blunt end of the work peice, but nonetheless the strip, (which was no bigger than a pencil), left a 3 inch bruise on my arm and a small hole in the skin. So wear some eye protection, cut longer strips not short ones, and use a wide push stick like you designed not a narrow one. And only cut strips wider than the slot behind the blade (or raise the blade to eliminate the gap). And never assume a small piece can't take out your eye or cut an artery when it's travelling several hundred miles an hour. (PS I wonder if the tape could be easily torn by the work peice and might even force the work piece downwards behind the blade?)
Thanks for the good suggestions. I don't know about the tape issue, but it's "safe" to say that anything that could go wrong, might, so you've given some great advice about being prepared. Thanks! 😄
I’ve been struggling for a week trying to make a zero tolerance plate for my old Craftsman 113. The stock plate is 1/8” steel so too thin for most materials. Your solution? Painter’s tape, genius! Thanks
LOL, glad it helped! I learned it from someone else, of course, although I have no idea who. That's one of the things I both love and hate about UA-cam - you can find great tips in the middle of other videos. It's awesome, because you never know what you'll learn. And it also sucks, because you can't really search for them. "Now where did I see that tip about...?" Anyway, glad I helped. 😄
Simple, Easy, gets the job done, therefore perfect
Thanks! 😄
Perfect! Great tip to use the masking tape to stop the thin strip from going down beside the blade!
Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄
Such a neat and simple idea.
Thanks! 😄
Thank you for this easy and practical solution.
You're quite welcome! 😄
This is the most legit home shop video I've ever watched, with the car in the shot of the strips falling to the floor
LOL, thanks. We work with what we've got!
Hi Dan, Nice simple solution. I like simple things, as more likely to use something simple rather than something complicated. Cheers, Huw
Thanks, Huw. Me too. 😄
Good video...like the tips with the painters tape. Thanks.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Thank You . . . . . I'm all set now after watching this video. :)
LOL, glad I could help. 😄
I don't know if you noticed, but someone had driven a car into your shop! The world is full of rude people. It's sad.
LOL. Well, I don't know how to put this, but let's just say she more than pays for the rent on that space. 😄Literally, since she pays the bills. 😂
I'm new to woodworking and love your channel. Could you do a piece on using bits and disks in unique ways? Foe example; can I put a spiral saw bit in my trim router...can I put my router bits in my spiral saw...can I use a grinding wheel in my hand held drill...what happens if I put a bullet drill bit in a router? Thanks! BTW, I posted here because I couldn't find a way to post general questions on the community site. Apologies for using the wrong thread.
Thanks for the comment - I don't care where you posted it. 😄And by all means, let me know what you want to see, although there's no guarantee I'll be able to do it.
In answer to your question, to be honest, I don't have a clue about any of that. Most of it sounds dangerous to me. As for putting a grinding wheel in your drill, I suspect that's doable, but I'd lean towards a Dremel first (although I'm not a huge fan of Dremels except for small work).
With that said, I did a quick UA-cam search and found some videos, so that's probably your best bet. Just be careful - it's *so* easy to get hurt when you're not using tools the way they were designed. That doesn't mean not to do it, it just means, well, be careful! 😄
And if you're looking to do a specific thing, I'd check Amazon to see if there actually is an attachment designed for what you're trying to do. It's amazing what's available these days! Thanks again for the question(s).
😎Cool. Thanks for the tip. Especially the tape part👍
You're welcome! Don't you just love picking up unexpected tips? That's why I watch videos, that's for sure. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker me to 😁
Great idea 👍 I was just wondering earlier how to cut some 1/2” strips. Nice, thanks for that
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
You can cut 1/2" strips easily without any additional jigs. Just make a push stick out of 3/8" or 1/4" thick plywood.
The problem is cutting really thin strips, 3/8" or thinner, because you can't safely use a push stick between the blade and the fence at such thickness.
Simple and efffective. I noticed your push block is almost as long as the strips being cut. How would it work for longer cutting longer strips? Let say 4 to 5ft. Thanks.
Thanks. Personally, if I were going to try and cut thin strips that long, I think I'd try to make a jig of some kind. At the very least, one or two featherboards. But I've never tried it, so that's just my 2-cents worth. 😄
Mate, that's a bloody ripper idea, quick, easy minimal mess. 👍🏽
I hope it's not bloody! 😂Seriously, though, thanks!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker
😲 Makes two of us!
Hahaha, 🤣
It is safe since there is a very small gap between the fance and the blade? Everyone else say not to do it like this?
Thanks and keep it up
Thanks. I don't see any reason this wouldn't be safe, but then again, what do I know? Always trust your instincts.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker thanks for the reply. I will give it a try
@@andrewcallus8961 👍
Very nice. Thank you.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
Just paint it black (like the Rolling Stones), green (like Matthias Wandel) or pink (like Steve Ramsey) and you'll never mix up your push block with a piece of scrap wood. What was the thinnest strip you have cut with it? I'd need 3 or 4 mm (1/8 or 1/6 of an inch) Is it possible with this system?
Thanks - the paint's a good idea. The thinnest strip I cut was 1/8". Although that's not true - I cut some too thin, so thinner than 1/8". I think it depends on your saw and fence, and how steady your hand is, when you get much thinner.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thanks for the information. I paint all my jigs which don't look like jigs. Lost too many of them already. They probably ended in the scrap bin and later in the wood stove. A few minutes (or even less) heath for an hour work is not really time-efficient.
@@hansdegroot8549 Thanks - makes sense.
What do you use thin strips of plywood for? I can see strips cut from a solid board, but plywood?
For runners on sleds.
I’m new to using a table saw so have a question… my Irving knife is higher than my blade, so would I need to remove the roving knife to use a block as you’re doing? Or is there an alternative. Thanks
It sounds like you might need to remove it, but I'm not comfortable with that solution, so maybe you should look around for another way to do it.
I cut the thin strips on the other side of the blade...INCRA fence easy to set up and quick as well as safe...
Thanks for the info.
The zero clearance tape is a good idea, but cutting thin pieces between the blade and the fence creates an opportunity to turn the trapped piece into a wooden bullet aimed right atcha. I, too, use the Indra jig, but it’s not hard to make an adjustable one from wood scraps.
@@BigTrainBuff The obvious solution, of course, is to not stand in the line of fire! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworkerI ok
Thanks it helped a lot
Glad I could help! 👍
Wow good idea thank you
Thanks, and you're welcome! 🙂
Just glue a square of 1/8 or 1/4 inch scrap in the same place or on the end.
👍
Simple, but great. Thx
Thanks! 😄
Nice and simple 👍 Thank you 😊
You're quite welcome! 😄
Hahahahaha, that 2:20 tape trick to create a "zero clearance" is awesome.
Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄
thanks for sharing. What table saw do you recommend for thin pieces ? I m planning to saw to 6mm.
That's hard to say. There's tons of table saws available. Of course I recommend SawStops because of the safety, but they're not cheap.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker ok thank you. i will give a look
@@julienh. 👍
Nice and simple.
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Noticed you moved up to the big SawStop table saw and is that a Skyline in your garage? Tape trick is awesome and will work wonders until I get to make my own inserts.
Yeah, love the new SawStop. ua-cam.com/video/GTVLeeUJFHI/v-deo.html. I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean by "Skyline". Yeah, the tape trick is cool. Thanks! 😄
Nice Idea 🙏👍
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
When I use a table saw witch this is my 2nd year in woodworking if something ain’t right I stop like when I was ripping some thing on table saw the board was wanting to lift up so I just stoped then I was not putting enough pressure on the board is what happened I’m thinking about getting a sawstop
Makes sense to me. Good luck on the SawStop! 😄
Just out of curiosity, why would you not cut the strip off of the workpiece on the outside of the blade, rather than having the potential for pinch between blade and strip and the resulting kickback?
Mostly because you'd have to move the fence after each cut. You should probably also use a featherboard.
I want to cut a bunch of bottle rocket sticks . . . Maybe 1/4" × 1/4" × 3'
Is this possible to do ?
I wouldn't try it - I'd just go buy them somewhere.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker ok thanks 👍
I like this idea because it is so damn simple. Everyone else pushes elaborate push sticks and this is 12 inces of a $2 2x4.. I made an inlay painting frame and I have gotten orders foir six more so thes small strips will be handy. I bought my first pin nailer and it was pretty exciting. I have not found a flaw in it yet. I bought the Harbor Freight model and my only concern is that it only shoots up to one inch pin nails. The more expensive then the $22 I spent shoot up to 2 inch pin nails.. I know there will be some application I need it for..but we will see. I am mentioning this because it might make a good vid for you. If you can get a free sample get two and remember your fan Bob..lol. Have a merry christmas!!!
Thanks! The only thing I can quibble about is the price of the 2x4 (2x6, actually). When I went to my local HD to get one, all the 2x6's were soaked (it had been raining for a week). So I ended up buying a redwood 2x6, and it cost more. 😂As for the nailers, I don't currently have a need for ones that can't shoot pins through Baltic birch plywood. And if I want one of those, it'll have to be air driven, and I don't want a compressor. So, sorry, I can't get you a freebie. 😛They wouldn't give me one, anyway. 😏
@@TheNewbieWoodworker thats ok. It is great for me since I do alot of small pieces for picture frames. Clamps and super glue have draw backs. I have asked Santa for the saw in your last vid.
@@bobnicholas5994 Then I hope you've been a good boy. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker lol Lucky for me I have a 2 x 6 in my freecycle pile..so mine cost zero. I have been a very good 59 yo boy this yr
@@bobnicholas5994 LOL, glad to hear it.
You actually want to raise the blade so that the gullet clears the workpiece. The gullet removes waste and is an important part of the blade.
There are times it’s ok to not do that. Just don’t make a habbit of it.
thumbs up! Table saw brand?
Thanks! That's a SawStop PCS (Professional Cabinet Saw): ua-cam.com/video/GTVLeeUJFHI/v-deo.html. I previously had a SawStop JSS (JobSite Saw): ua-cam.com/video/3zbYR5ok1V0/v-deo.html. I highly recommend either, because: ua-cam.com/video/OouPywNRZJ8/v-deo.html.
Isn't it safer to do thin cuts on the left rather the right of the board?
I'm not sure what the consensus is on this, but if you do it on the right side, you have to keep moving the fence.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Yep I see that. I've watche da bunch of these. Many talk about avoiding the right side as the thin piece can get caught and kickback or go down into the saw gap. You have minimised this issue with blue tape and the saw block jig. Thanks for the response!
@@instantalbums 👍
Nice tip
Thanks! 😄
That an S70? Looks like it’s in great shape 👍
It's my wife's C70, and yes, it *is* in pretty good shape. Thanks for noticing. 😄
Great suggestions
Thanks! 😄
Awesome.. thanks
You're quite welcome! 🙂
My man! I know this is simple for so many, but my experience in woodworking is still so limited. I really appreciate the video.
You're quite welcome. That's the exact reason I started this channel. 😄
Very nice
Thanks! 😄
Great tip thanks for sharing have a blessed day
Thanks! 😄
Thanks for the video and love the painters tape tip for poor mans zero clearance insert. That is ingenious.
Harleymike/chicago
Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄
Tell us about your digital fence. I've never seen one.
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/wUaBOSx4--o/v-deo.html. 😄
raise the blade just till the riving knife touches the tape,then lower the blade, cut the rest of the tape with a razor knife where the indention is so the riving knife can come through. works on my saw. But!! if you swap out the 10" blade for a 7 1/4 blade your riving knife might not reach the top of the blade like it's suppose to.
Good tips, thanks! 😄
Spent an hour trying to figure out a speedy way to do this last night and ended up doing it the much harder way! Always looks so simple AFTER I see someone else's idea! 😂
Ain't that the truth! 😂
I put finish on my push blocks/sticks, usually polyurethane so I know they aren't scraps
Good idea!
amazing!
Thanks! 😄
I found out the hard way that by trying this method or a similar one to it, I started cutting into my aluminium fence due to flexing of the fence.
I'm not sure how the fence would flex in towards the blade - it should flex away if anything. Are you sure it's just not aligned properly?
The painters tape why didn't I think of that
I tried to perfectly cut a thin peace to do that (I gave up)
Glad I could help! 👍
Love to own that saw but sawstop don't supply to Europe
Yeah, that sucks, I know. 🤬
I thought we were supposed to have the off cut against the fence? And then I use a push block and a push stick (or my hands ) and I would feed the piece all the way through. If it's for thin strips even if it gets kicked back it's too light to do anything. If you put the fence between your stock and the blade, if you do get kickback the bigger piece will get shot out at your body.
I could be totally wrong but I used to do it like the video and I got a piece shot at my hand. So now I put the off cut against the fence.
And just go ahead and push it all the way through. Or, you can turn the piece over and continue the cut from the other end. My 2c
Thanks for the tip. It makes total sense to me, and I'm glad you've thought it through so well.
Not my technique but definitely a great way to do it
Thanks! 😄
Good tip
Thanks! 😄
Thanks
You're quite welcome!
Simple and it keeps your fingers well away from the blade
...and that's always a good idea! 😄Thanks.
I don’t get it, the first 2:30 are a series of cuts, measurements, painters tape, but then at 2:40 the painters tape is gone and you just do the obvious, push the wood through with a block on top. What’s the point of the first 2:30 then? Is that just a video editing mistake?
Actually, what I was saying starting somewhere around 1:50, is that if you have a zero-clearance insert plate, then you're fine, but if not, you can use some painters tape to help keep anything from dropping down the opening.
I'm confused I thought you shouldn't put the fence too close to the blade?
I've never heard of that being a problem, unless you actually touch the blade with the fence. But I could be wrong, so if you have any information on why this is a bad idea, please let me know! Thanks.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I think it was both for the risk of damaging the fence indeed (in which case I believe you can just add a sacrificial fence?) and for the risk of kickback? I definitely can be wrong, naming me newbie is a huge understatement 😅
@@clarissepotriquet7451 One of my biggest fears is showing something that could get people hurt, so I'm glad you said something, regardless of the outcome! Yes, you can certainly use a sacrificial fence, if you're worried. As for kickback, I can't see the thin strip causing kickback. But if you pinched the blade by pushing the stock on the other side of the blade too hard against the back of the blade, it could kick back. But that doesn't have anything to do with the fact we're cutting thin strips. If you haven't seen it yet, see my video on kickback: ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html.
0:39 Wouldn't you want to stand to the other side?
If I was left-handed, then absolutely. But I'm not, so this way gives me more control over the stock.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I actually tried standing to the right myself after commenting this and realized I couldn't see the blade over the fence so nvm lol
@@parkerjacobsen1220 It was a good question. I think it's smart to ask those kinds of questions. When you find out the answer, it adds a little more knowledge to the memory banks, which can only help. :)
Don’t you have to worry about kickback with the thin strips?
To be honest, I don't *think* so, but I suppose anything is possible.
Clever!
Thanks! 😄
Glue strips of sandpaper to those sticks to make detail sanders... 😉 👍
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@@TheNewbieWoodworker hehe, but seriously, every time I go to a big box store, I grab a couple paint sticks and do just that.. 😆 👍
@@elfpimp1 Actually, the reason I didn't say anything is because I'd think the paint sticks would be better than whatever you cut yourself. I could be wrong, though, so like I said, I just replied with 😄. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker hehehehe!!! The cut strips? I'd use them to fill cracks in boards, or gaps between planks, it'd save on the amount of wood filler I'd have to use. There's a million and one things those could be used for.. so, I'll take the stir sticks AND the cut strips!!
@@elfpimp1 Good idea. Speaking of wood filler, do you have any tips on keeping FamoWood from drying out? My last tub of it dried out, so I'm thinking of getting one of those vacuum bottles and see if that helps. Any thoughts?
Super Einfach Danke
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Now you can use it as plywood edging on solid wood projects!
Just kidding, good advise, or is that good advice?
Uh, yeah, except... how about the other way around? 😄
This would have been more useful if you showed how to cut thin strips to a specific size. Setting the fence seems, at least to me, to be the challenge.
Trial and error. There's no secret to it - just keep at it until it's right.
молодец мужик все просто ...лайк и поцелуй от меня )) а то я уже палец повредил ..
Спасибо и добро пожаловать.
This is ok with short pieces of wood. Long pieces not so good.
Probably true.
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"Use a push block." So why demonstrate the wrong way?
Stupidity?
🤣😂😆 I literally died laughing 40 seconds into the video! The Newbie Woodworker is so me! 🤦🏻♂️ But we have fun and make cool stuff! Thank you for this PERFECT video! 😅
Your newest follower,
-Mike 😎
Thanks, Mike! For a long time, I always felt like if I had video of how I acted all the time, it would help me understand myself better. Be careful of what you wish for! 😂 And welcome aboard. 😄
Guess you quit
Well, I'm taking an extended break... a very extended break, but I still respond to comments.
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