Hesitation on Acceleration Carburetor
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- hesitation on acceleration carburetor
Episode 480
We need to take our 1964 Falcon to the drag strip to get a base line for future modifications. But a hesitation in the carburetor won't help us find the best times. Se we check one thing at a time until we find the problem.
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Rebuild Kit, Carburetor: 9A586-6
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My buddy owns a junk yard. I was restoring a 67 mustang. I asked him for a 4bbl intake and carb. He had the intake but no carb. He said he'd call if he got one. 2 weeks later he says he's got one. It was an NOS Autolite 4100 still in the box date coded 1966. $50! Ran beautiful and still runs beautiful 5 years later.
Those carbs are amazing if no one mixed and matched the boosters.
We love anything that has a Falcon in it Jeff!!!
Us too! We'll be covering the Ranchero and the Hardtop in greater detail as the months move on. Lots going on on both of these cars. Here is a playlist for Falcon/Ranchero only: ua-cam.com/play/PL9zPeh4WymNh1-RGicVYGCrcBcoV-bESE.html
Carbs can give you a bit of grief, but they are so easy to rebuild and adjusting them can give you a plethora of options.
Your video just saved me a bunch of headache I cleaned the carburetor on my 64 replace the fuel pump check the fuel filter was clear all of it was an order after cleaning the carburetor it still had a flat spot when you accelerated so I opened the choke manually and now it runs perfectly thanks a million
Hell yeah, I love the show. I own a 73 Ranchero, and your video are a huge help!
Glad to hear it!
Another area is the fuel bowl level or level of fuel in bowl. It's very important to get the fuel level right. That's a factory tuning thing. And it leads to drivability issues if off. HIPO 4100's forever with manual chokes.
Was having a hesitation when getting back into the power at a cruise. I raised the front fuel bowl height some. Hesitation gone!
The 2100 and 4100 are bad about that. The F100 has no hesitation, but it drinks fuel and I am wondering if the float is too high.
Also one thing to check that i've found, over the years there is some wear that occurs on the accel pump linkage. That wear can make the settings as you described 2 not quite enough and 3 a little too much. You would have to play around finding the correct size for your car, but the nylon bushings that are used in some carb linkages for cars and tractors can be used to take out any slop due to wear and allow the fine tuning to be a lot easier.
Nice point! I'll have to look into that.
You should take that 2100 apart, dip it, clean it, and rebuild it. I just did one on a 74 econoline 200. Those things are super simple and super easy to rebuild.....
That's the plan! After we pull the 260, we will be doing the rebuild off camera (we have covered the 4100 in a past video).
Great video! I'm working on my 2bbl Autolite 2100 right now. I should say the electric automatic choke kit from Mike's Carb Shop is super. Surprisingly easy to install. Just READ the instructions.
Agreed on that!
Help I can't read
Great video, nice to see a Falcon on the road!
I'll still say "kinda" it needs more tweaking.
Glad you have this fun and informative channel, will never stop watching keep up the great work
I primarily and Edlebrock 1406 on every thing but most recently a Q-jet on the square body. I will freely admit my disgust with carbs period! I'm with Cam on this one. EFI is my next purchase!
We are hoping to do a detailed install on an EFI unit soon.
Love the look of the Falcon Sprint
Me too!
It's always nice when your shop partner has the knowledge you're missing - as long as they're willing to share 😂😂🍻
Very true! Cam and I make one good mechanic on classics. LOL
@@AutoRestoMod hahaha the Laurel and Hardy of hotrods 😅🍻
Good 👍 keep it up l have a 1964 Ford comet wagon it was my dad's
Yes.
Jeff, have you found an accelerator pump diaphragm that is resistant to Ethanol fuel??? My 4100 has just today begun to dead stop stumble on tack off. Diaphragm is definitely leaking gas even with only purchasing eth-free fuel! I see Napa, Dorman and others sell the part. Just wondering! BTW Your friend and Mine Bob O. and I reside in the same town. Been in Mustang Club of America since late 70's. Have 3 with a 4th on the way that belonged to my father. You and I crossed paths once in my favorite junkyard for old mustangs in Leesville some years ago. My brother and I were both in the midst of restoring our 66 converts and were looking for correct hardware items.....not sure what you were after at the time. Enjoy your videos.
Scott at National Parts Depot have discussed that. At this time no one is making one. But they might.
You can still get the accelerator pump diaphragm at auto parts stores for the Holleys not sure about the Ford made carburetor.. You will want a 30cc diaphragm.
The Ford one is similar I will have to check if the are the same on post 63 2100s.
Will be using the info on the RS
Damn that car is pretty!
This one and the '72s (the Mach and the F100) make me grin when I see them. If your car doesn't make you smile when you walk out of the house...you bought the wrong car....
@@AutoRestoMod I couldn't agree more, this baby is mine and she makes me smile every time I walk away i.imgur.com/xzy2o2R.jpeg
Great cameo by the cat ;-)
She's a Rock Star.
I have dual quads and old carbs powr valves went out and I had a frickin flame thrower dz302sbc lol
NIce little Falcon, we are looking for a nice rust free one at the moment for a father son project.
They are out there. And honestly I would pay the money for a rust-free or nearly rust-free example. Had to do it over again I would not have bought the Ranchero LOL it's just too rusty.
Hi Jeff, Any idea why my 1969 ford fairlane sputters when I turn corners? I turned a sharp corner once and it stalled.
Check float level, maybe need to be raised. I had same problem
There seems to be some support for ethanol accelerator pumps for Holley these days.
I had a clogged air filter on my 79 f100 today
Thanks!
great video....will it work on the big Ford's?
Thanks guys
love and Starliners,
(funny thing is......the first Ford I fell in love with is a 59 FFGS 500 black and silver oddly enough!)
The way carbs work is the same from lawn mowers to boats to tanks to anything with a carb lol
Yup big ole Starliners too!
The choke should have the heater hose clip on it
Again I can not speak to the Ford carburetor but Holleys have the available diaphragms for modern fuel.versus old style daiphragm.
Almost all kits now are set up for ethanol fuels.
I've got a 74 F100 390 and running the same carb. It's running high rpm idle and stays that way. I think the choke isn't doing it's thing the correct way. Also smelling very rich. When I set the idle screw lower and the rpm's are lowering it will go dead when shift it in R or D. Any tips? (I live in the Netherlands) Thanks!
I like the Cat😺
1950 Mercury hesitating when acceleration. Why?
love your videos eversince brothers, however, to get more views especially for the younger audience, i would suggest you guys upgrade the Camera. Love love everything you guys do and would love for you guys to get more views and subscribers. With the age of tiktok and IG, we gotta keep up with the times technologically. Just makes your videos Millennial friendlier. Love the information and narrations. Keep them coming.Hope you do Mopars too
Thanks for the input. But, upgrade? We're running Canon Xa11s. From there we would get into the Xa50s or higher...and gravity checking them gets hella expensive. I don't like using DSLRs for this work. The form factor is very limiting when shooting in tight spaces, while the Xa series (or Sony etc) works better due to the slim profile with the viewfinder door closed. Also, with the kids (I teach 13-20 year olds to run cameras) the point and shoot aspect of the Xas are just plain better/more forgiving.
I have a rebuilt 390 with a holley I've been trying to solve a stumble on when you hit the gas, I was thinking about putting larger accelerator pump nozzles in it but I ended up bumping the timing up to about 12° BTDC initial for now and it solved it, haven't had it out cruising on the highway or anything to see if it pings but none so far. I'm not sure if I had a lean condition that I put a bandaid on with the earlier timing or what
It could be that the timing was a bit low, but Holley's are known for the stumble at part throttle. I'd go and check out Holley's excellent tech videos. They most likely have one dealing with the part throttle stumble.
i have the same issue with my 77 cougar 351W first start of the day i get a dead spot when i hit the road and get on the gas
I don't know how often you check for comments but I just replaced my Holley 1904 carb on my 63 falcon. It starts like a dream now and while it's cold (manual choke partially on) it revs very well. Once it warms up (Choke off) trying to rev it it immediately bogs to the point I can kill the engine. Once I can get it past roughly 3,000 RPMs and rev it, it works just fine.
My vacuum advance seems to be working fine, I don't have a vacuum meter yet, I tested by sucking on the vacuum line. It appears to advance the plate OK. So I'm at a bit of a loss for an explanation. Any Ideas?
I'd check for vacuum leaks first. I don't honestly have a lot of experience with the 1904 so other issues (power valve etc) might be different.
Hi there, I have an 800 cc carburetted petrol car. The problem is that when I try to throttle it to the max, the carburettor starts misfiring, I actually got the whole engine overhauled, changed the spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, added an extra condenser. However, the problem still persists. It gives out black smoke, not much though but it does, also, when I try to accelerate the car and push it more in lower gears, the car starts jerking. Please advise.
Check your timing first. After the overhaul you may not have enough initial timing. Then work from there. If all of it was put back stock, you should be able to figure out the issue.
Over here I was thinking it was either a fuel filter that needs changing or a fuel pressure issue... Hey Jeff any ideas where to get a New Grill for Falcon '64?
No new grilles are on the horizon. Francisco Salas who runs Chrome World (626) 482-1448 can refinish it for you. Check with him.
So I can change just my leaking accelerator pump on my ‘68 2100 (C8AF-AF)? Does the power valve plate underneath often leak too; or is it most likely just the pump? (I can’t tell which is leaking). Thanks. 🇨🇦
I'd do the accelerator pump first. If the leak goes away you are done. If it is still there you are in need of more work.
@@AutoRestoMod Will do. Thanks. 👍🏼
Did you straighten the rod on your car and start setting from there?
We left the rod where it was. Choke was first, accelerator pump arm next. I might go back for one more video and keep going on the tuning..
Hey not sure if y’all respond on here but I have a 84 f150 5.0 with the motor raft 2150a and I can not for the life of me get the accelerator pump circuit to work. I’ve had the carb apart and ultra sonic cleaned 3 times I’ve blown out every passage way I could find. I’ve purchased 3 different rebuild kits Now I’m officially stumped.
The inlet hole to feed the circuit is clear the passage to the squirters is clear the check ball and weight are in place…… help
I don't have any experience with the motorcraft 2150a, but it still uses the same style accelerator pump system that the 2100 uses. It just has more junk on it lol. I would operate the throttle and make sure you're getting an accelerator pump from it 1st if you are not then you have a problem either with the diaphragm on the front of the carburetor or you have a problem with the way the arm is set up that actuates the pump.
Yes very similar carbs, I’ve replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm 3 times to no avail, the rod I’ve adjusted to tighten up the slack. I’m at a loss. If I spray carb cleaner through the passage for the squirters I have excellent flow. I watched carburetor mikes videos I’ve watched this video
Back in olden days, was common for ignition point gap to close, this causes retarded timing & low vacuum. Combined would produce noticeable bog(usually talking tuneups that were in excess of 8K mi). Amount of vacuum available determines how quickly fuel is drawn through boosters, thus dictating amount of pump shot necessary to prevent bog. Point is, check vacuum when fighting bog. Since fuel must pass from bowl and through jets before entering boosters, low float level can also contribute to bog.
As pointed out, adjusting(bending) accelerator pump linkage is often the only thing that works to optimize pump shot. Usually one can disconnect linkage arm from throttle lever to determine if massaging is necessary. My method is with linkage disconnected, pull linkage against accelerator pump diaphragm until a small amount fuel exits squirters. Compare this position of linkage with multiple choice lever. If already past the openings, linkage should be shortened. If there is more than 1/8" travel to reach openings, probably should be lengthened. Excessive length delays time squirters begin to function, too short, and/or lower arm setting limit amount of pump shot delivered(possibly noted by a quick accel, then bog). Often on store boughten rebuilds, original part has been replaced with one from "parts bin", may or may not be optimized for carb. Usually original linkage is close in length(tough possibly worn out).
Of course all this babble is assuming accelerator pump diaphragm is correctly installed(spring behind it) and is flexible. A stiff diaphragm will severely limit amount of pump shot. Early carbs have a check ball in pump housing, often missing. Later ones with pink one way valve behind diaphragm, can be split. Either condition limits amount of pump shot delivered.
Good points Tom!
First problem is ...it’s a 2 bbl !
Jonathan W calls that a cat scan !!!😂
It is. It is usually a "Hey, you ok? 'cause you know my food bowl is only half full..."
What is it when after driving for a mile or so and come to a stop, the truck goes dead. (FE 390w/750 holley with a rebuilt kit in it) Drags a little on restart but starts up. Does the 750 need adjustment or what? Help please.
Look to your idle and your float levels.
Turned idle up half a turn. Also found vaccum leak on unused port on intake. Thanks guys
3 on the tree? Just like my 66 Ranchero "Kirby"
Yep!
My vacuum gauge says “too much advanced timing” no matter what I do.
Check for vacuum leaks first (one check being the advance can on the distributor). Then use an adjustable timing light to check the advance on the vacuum can.
You shouldn't care about what your vacuum gauge says other the inches of mercury, and how steady the needle is...
real smart you can put a cigarette out in a bowl of gas
Maybe someone can help. I have an old harley and when I'm in low rpm usually in 2nd or 3rd it like to stumble on me at a constant speed. Not really on acceleration. Any tips?
I would check the fuel passages.
If it's not the pump, the discharge nozzle could be gunked up.
Yes. There are a number of things that can get in your way.
well when my fuel injection does this I look at wish it was carb power
So you failed to fix it and then talked as if you had fixed it and everyone is supposed to believe they now know how to fix it?
Sure.
How do you get leaves under a car cover? Haha...I think that part was staged for the episode.
The cover was blown off recently and landed, along with the leaves from the trees, on the ground. Those covers are a PITA to get the leaves off of. If the car's paint was in good nick I would take the cover, roll it over on another "lesser car" and hand pick all the trash off but "meh" the paint is shot. The cover is to keep from trashing the interior due to an EPIC water leak in the windshield top center.
Did you know Arizona count isn't over yet???
On Falcons?! I thought the DMV had all those records. 😜😆
That didn’t age well
Way too much
People have said mine is called a fuel bog, when I accelerate harder is sort of cuts out then gets going again?
Could be.