I do ;) Yes, at 1:12 I see a really bad looking contact on the transformer... Also: there are 2 empty contacts on the main board (but that might be on purpose?)
00:00 - Bad solder joints. I might've cheated a bit, though, since I must've fixed a dozen of these by now, and only one of them presented a different problem - a bad relay because the owner was an absolute chainsmoker and tar got onto the contacts. It also had bad solder joints everywhere, though.
I was given one an identical f120 recently. Sooo many bad joints, i had to go at it a few times... Tips for others: resolder ICs on the mainboard. Resolder speaker switch/filter pcb. Resolder speaker output pins to pcb. Resolder transformer pins. Remove front panel , clean the living hell out of switches (you never want to got back in there), resolder switches and pots, resolder all the connections from input board to front board. Simple as that really.
wow. i had one of these brand new. actually i had 3 as they would work for a day or two and then fail with that EXACT problem. who would have thought 30 years on i'd see the fix. thanks so much for sharing.
1.11 on the video I spotted the poor joint on the board, as soon as I heard the power switch, I had diagnosed the problem! I have come across a similar problem on a TV.
It's barely visible at 0:59 and becomes much clearer around 1:08. It doesn't look like there is enough solder on the input connections either...no wonder they failed!
The cause of this problem is that components with a large thermal mass don't get hot enough when they go through the wave soldering machine. If you slow down the travel speed it helps but often you only discover the bad joint years later after corrosion has crept under the solder. The joints look perfect when they come out of the machine but are actually not great. Double sided boards eliminate this problem which is why I always use them in industrial applications.
I did not spot it earlier (was watching on my phone) but at 1:55 I did not buy the "arching power switch" and immediately thought of a bad / cracked solder joint. :)
Thank you very much for this video. I just found this amplifier to the recycle bin . I took it and i will try to figure out whats wrong. Your video is very very good !
@@DrCassette Now i just tested mine ! It seems that it has not been serviced before. As far as I can see there are NO cold joins . I plugged it in with headphones. No sound. I connected speakers, i have sound ! nice sound. So all internals need a good clean, all pots and switches a deep clean. All outside a good clean. I will measure the bias so to have picture. All these in the summer time when i hope i will have some time for it... BUT why should someone cut the 3 little wires that go to the phones small diagonal board ???? Is there a purpose behind it ? I wish i could sent you a picture of it... Very strange !
I gotta crack open my STR-GX47ES receiver (ca. ~1991), which has a problem w/ the left channel. When the unit is turned on (& after the relay click), the left won't work until I turn the volume up & down several times (then it will kick in). Already tried spraying contact cleaner into the control, but it was only temporary!
I have a TA-F335R that I restored electrically! I readjusted the bias because it was waaay off and fixes a lot of broken solder joints. It is rates 2x55w into 8ohms, but that's way underrated. I tested mine and got nearly 175watts per channel into a 4 ohm load. Not bad!
This series of Sony amplifier all have the same issue: solder connections between the input PCB and the preamp PCB go bad because the preamp PCB flexes a bit every time the user operates the front panel controls.
@@DrCassette I had the next model up (TA-F210) and seemingly every second solder joint inside that thing was bad. I finally gave up, disassembled it completely, fixed all bad solder joints I could find and sold it.
Bad solder joints? Tell me about it :D I bought F210 with bad volume potentiometer, fixed that, but also had to redo all solder joints in those little 90 degrees boards that goes around volume potentiometer, because they were all broken. It's a decent amplifier otherwise, though it doesn't like 2 ohm load.
DrCassette, i have 2 Sony amplifiers, TA-A300 and TA-F210. The Loudness button on TA-A300 gives an incredible punch on the sound, it makes it more powerful and aggressive. Unfortunately it doesn't happen the same in TA-F210, it brings almost no difference in sound power. I've checked all solderings and they are ok, i've cleaned all contacts and knobs with "Kontakt 60". Comparing the Loudness function between both amplifiers it's almost comparing night to day. Do you have any idea of might be happening? Thanks in advance!
This might not be a problem. The loudness circuits may be different designs, the TA-A300 seems to be an older and higher quality design than the TA-F210.
Ah, now I understand. It's spring time here in Germany, too early for the big outdoor flea markets. In a few months there should be new videos about flea market finds.
Nice to see a simple integrated amp from Sony... probably the last one they built. Must say its still shit quality (ic drivers). kudos for Sony for not over complicating something for once. Currently rebuilding a ewaste Yamaha from 1990 and its way better build quality.
This is by far not the last one they built, this is a 1989 model, and Sony kept producing simple entry-level stereo amplifiers for at least another decade. Build quality is quite nice, Sony used metal in places where others would have used plastic. The integrated driver ICs are OK for as long as their solder joints aren't bad. They do run very hot though. Your Yamaha may be built better, but is it also an entry level model? I have seen some real trash made by Yamaha, like a mid-80s amp that had dropping resistors running so hot they burned up all the circuit board and components surrounding them...
They used Iron /steel heat sink for driver IC s that is a shame. We all know iron heat conductivity is slightly above wood and insignificant while they could use 5x3Cm aluminum cost 2 cents or so.
That's some weak looking crap. I would have left it at the dump. Black box metal and plastic 80s stereos are worst ever made! love my old early 70s Sansui! I guess that Sony was OK to practice trouble shooting on.
![Sony TA-F110 Amplifier [2/2] - Repairs](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/khlzKOyfGgY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Sony TA-F110 Amplifier [2/2] - Repairs](/img/tr.png)
Nobody wants to play the game? :(
I do ;)
Yes, at 1:12 I see a really bad looking contact on the transformer...
Also: there are 2 empty contacts on the main board (but that might be on purpose?)
is that a 2 pin header with nothing plugged in to it? 0:52 on the left side
The two-pin-headers on the main board are the test points to check the quiescent current. Nothing wrong with those :)
DrCassette ah! Well crusty old solder joints strike again :)
00:00 - Bad solder joints.
I might've cheated a bit, though, since I must've fixed a dozen of these by now, and only one of them presented a different problem - a bad relay because the owner was an absolute chainsmoker and tar got onto the contacts. It also had bad solder joints everywhere, though.
I was given one an identical f120 recently. Sooo many bad joints, i had to go at it a few times... Tips for others: resolder ICs on the mainboard. Resolder speaker switch/filter pcb. Resolder speaker output pins to pcb. Resolder transformer pins. Remove front panel , clean the living hell out of switches (you never want to got back in there), resolder switches and pots, resolder all the connections from input board to front board. Simple as that really.
wow. i had one of these brand new. actually i had 3 as they would work for a day or two and then fail with that EXACT problem. who would have thought 30 years on i'd see the fix. thanks so much for sharing.
Nice fix, these Sony Stereo Amplifiers from the 80s are great, i have a Sony TA-A400 and its still working without any Problems!
1.11 on the video I spotted the poor joint on the board, as soon as I heard the power switch, I had diagnosed the problem!
I have come across a similar problem on a TV.
I didn't spot the problem as I am learning but at 4:42 I said wow that's some test gear, just subscribed thanks for sharing your skills in this field.
2:30 - It's obviously cracked solder joints at the switch and the transformer
It's barely visible at 0:59 and becomes much clearer around 1:08. It doesn't look like there is enough solder on the input connections either...no wonder they failed!
I didn't know you watched Dr. Cassette. Your eyes are better than mine!
The cause of this problem is that components with a large thermal mass don't get hot enough when they go through the wave soldering machine. If you slow down the travel speed it helps but often you only discover the bad joint years later after corrosion has crept under the solder. The joints look perfect when they come out of the machine but are actually not great. Double sided boards eliminate this problem which is why I always use them in industrial applications.
I did not spot it earlier (was watching on my phone) but at 1:55 I did not buy the "arching power switch" and immediately thought of a bad / cracked solder joint. :)
Thank you very much for this video.
I just found this amplifier to the recycle bin . I took it and i will try to figure out whats wrong.
Your video is very very good !
Thank you, I'm glad this video is useful :)
@@DrCassette Now i just tested mine !
It seems that it has not been serviced before.
As far as I can see there are NO cold joins .
I plugged it in with headphones. No sound.
I connected speakers, i have sound ! nice sound.
So all internals need a good clean, all pots and switches a deep clean. All outside a good clean. I will measure the bias so to have picture. All these in the summer time when i hope i will have some time for it...
BUT why should someone cut the 3 little wires that go to the phones small diagonal board ????
Is there a purpose behind it ? I wish i could sent you a picture of it...
Very strange !
Not sure why someone would do that, I would just try to reconnect the wires that have been cut
1.14, dry and blackened joint on the PCB connected to the transformer.
has it something to do withe that black spot on the transformer circuit board.? 0:53 Didn't have time to watch it til the end.
I gotta crack open my STR-GX47ES receiver (ca. ~1991), which has a problem w/ the left channel. When the unit is turned on (& after the relay click), the left won't work until I turn the volume up & down several times (then it will kick in). Already tried spraying contact cleaner into the control, but it was only temporary!
excelente amigo
I have a TA-F335R that I restored electrically! I readjusted the bias because it was waaay off and fixes a lot of broken solder joints. It is rates 2x55w into 8ohms, but that's way underrated. I tested mine and got nearly 175watts per channel into a 4 ohm load. Not bad!
I have a Sony TA-F535R amplifier as part of my main stereo system :)
They are wonderful amplifiers!
I used to have the same amplifier and it was full of cold solder joints, the input board was especially problematic.
speaker relay or maybe caps I guess but not spotted yet.
Where is this dump..I'd love to know.....
Hello, I have One question. Can I reset processor Sony TA-F345r
Thank you very much
I have the same amplifier ta 120 (almost the same, I don't see any difference) and I missed one channel.
This series of Sony amplifier all have the same issue: solder connections between the input PCB and the preamp PCB go bad because the preamp PCB flexes a bit every time the user operates the front panel controls.
It seems like Sony HiFi equipment from this time has a lot of problems with bad solder joints.
@@DrCassette I had the next model up (TA-F210) and seemingly every second solder joint inside that thing was bad. I finally gave up, disassembled it completely, fixed all bad solder joints I could find and sold it.
Bad solder joints? Tell me about it :D I bought F210 with bad volume potentiometer, fixed that, but also had to redo all solder joints in those little 90 degrees boards that goes around volume potentiometer, because they were all broken. It's a decent amplifier otherwise, though it doesn't like 2 ohm load.
These entry-level Sony amplifiers are really quite good, almost too good to be entry-level :)
1:11 burned pad on transformer PCB al the way to the right side.
1:12 one of the transformer outputs the very right one is blown out/burnt out
Yup i hear that switch
On 240p resolution, I bearly recognised the components. So it was a game over for me from the get go 😦
Wow, is your internet connection this bad?
1:30 no connection on first TR pin
Solder joints of the power switch?
Almost... ;)
To be honest I did not see the problem tell you pointed it out.
DrCassette, i have 2 Sony amplifiers, TA-A300 and TA-F210. The Loudness button on TA-A300 gives an incredible punch on the sound, it makes it more powerful and aggressive. Unfortunately it doesn't happen the same in TA-F210, it brings almost no difference in sound power. I've checked all solderings and they are ok, i've cleaned all contacts and knobs with "Kontakt 60". Comparing the Loudness function between both amplifiers it's almost comparing night to day. Do you have any idea of might be happening? Thanks in advance!
This might not be a problem. The loudness circuits may be different designs, the TA-A300 seems to be an older and higher quality design than the TA-F210.
@@DrCassette, thanks.
1:29 . Bad, burned solder at power transformer board.
ta-fe520r with stk chip is better amp?
No, discrete transistor output stages are in most cases better than STK hybrid circuits.
@@DrCassette Thenks for answer. I buy fe520r and sound is not good.
Stk is also a sort of discrete circuit. TDA, TEA, UPC etc are real ic.
more flea market coming?
What do you mean?
You did some videos on things you got from a flea market, didnt you? R u going to make more?
Ah, now I understand. It's spring time here in Germany, too early for the big outdoor flea markets. In a few months there should be new videos about flea market finds.
Cant wait, I like these a lot
@2:50 lose solder spotted from xformer
0:48 - The front panel looks whopper-jawed - not parallel to the rear panel.
That's most likely distortion of the image caused by the camera lens.
1:13 rip
Nice to see a simple integrated amp from Sony... probably the last one they built. Must say its still shit quality (ic drivers). kudos for Sony for not over complicating something for once. Currently rebuilding a ewaste
Yamaha from 1990 and its way better build quality.
This is by far not the last one they built, this is a 1989 model, and Sony kept producing simple entry-level stereo amplifiers for at least another decade. Build quality is quite nice, Sony used metal in places where others would have used plastic. The integrated driver ICs are OK for as long as their solder joints aren't bad. They do run very hot though. Your Yamaha may be built better, but is it also an entry level model? I have seen some real trash made by Yamaha, like a mid-80s amp that had dropping resistors running so hot they burned up all the circuit board and components surrounding them...
But at least I tryed
1:12
1:12!
at least the problem is simple.
1:14 :-D
They used Iron /steel heat sink for driver IC s that is a shame. We all know iron heat conductivity is slightly above wood and insignificant while they could use 5x3Cm aluminum cost 2 cents or so.
The heat sink is actually made from aluminium. It's just not a solid piece.
That's some weak looking crap. I would have left it at the dump. Black box metal and plastic 80s stereos are worst ever made! love my old early 70s Sansui! I guess that Sony was OK to practice trouble shooting on.
Why do you even waste your time on that piece of crap?
Because it's not a piece of crap.
@@DrCassette You wright this amplifier was almost so good as Sony ES amplifier.
I know that because I own one 👍