Shallow Well Pump - diagnosis and repair
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- On the job showing how to diagnose and repair a shallow well pump.
The home owner called out of water because the pump was not running. We found that the tank was waterlogged and the motor was humming.
- Draining the tank and correcting the waterlogg
- Testing the motor to see if it can be repaired
- Changing the Capacitor, Start Switch, and Pressure Switch
- Installing a Air Release and Snifter Valve for a Air Volume Control
"Here is a list of Parts you can buy on Amazon!"
All the parts listed are high quality OEM products, don't cheap out and buy from Home Depot, Lowes, or Tractor Supply stores those are cheap Chinese products that will cause more failures!
If your lucky to have a home town hardware or a feed store, you might find a pressure switch or air volume control. If you need OEM go to your nearest Water Well Supply company or seek a service call to replace the part.
These are my Affiliate Links to amazon, you get the correct part and i get a kickback from the purchase. - thanks for the support!
- you can get a Capacitor here for the 1/2 HP sta-rite pump
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- you can get a Capacitor here for the 1 HP sta-rite pump amzn.to/2rVzyMG
-You can get a Start switch from here:
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- You can get a Pressure Switch 30/50 here:
Adjust the pressure to fit your system, but this is the most common setting.
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- Or a 40/60 here:
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Some items do not include prime shipping but the part cost is the same with or without prime shipping. Example part is 13$ + 9$ shipping 22$ a prime shipping part the same is around 22-24$ - Навчання та стиль
Please feel free to ask any questions you may have on shallow well pumps and anything about water wells, Thanks
I have a friend he pulled his well to replace foot valve and leathers when he reinstated he added 20 foot extra pipe now the pump will not prime we also put new pump help
Get them to check and make sure the jet didn't break off, and they should not need any more than 5-10 feet of pipe in the water table. If its a very shallow well they could have put the jet in the screens and this will prevent priming the drop pipe. pull up and clamp off until the water fills the casing, then install the pump adapter at this depth. Hopefully they have a good name brand pump and not one from a home center. If they have any questions they can ask me on facebook @ClearWaterPump or facebook.com/ClearWaterPump/
Clear Water Pump & Well LLC. I think my pump is leaking water from the pump how do I report that?
I DID HAVE A WATER LOGGED TANK, AFTER A NEW TANK DIFFERENT MOTOR AND PUMP, SWITCH. I'M STILL GETTING A MOTOR THAT WILL GO ON FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS AND MAYBE GAIN 10LBS THEN GO OFF, COME ON ABOUT 15 SECONDS LATER AND JUST HUMMM I'M STUMPED
Hello, where did you get that mud pit? I'm looking for one just like it. Thanks
Really good video. To the point and no B.S. Glad to know there are still man card holders out there.
Learning a lot on your channel. My shallow well is dug in sand, not a flow well. The new acrylic air volume controls keep cracking. Time to replace the galvanized tank? Or move to a diaphragm type air admittance type?
Depending on your water conditions you can use a Bladder or Diaphragm tank.
What if you had a submersible pump in the water and a jet pump hooked up to the piping above ground? What would happen?
It would basically be a booster pump if run at the same time. There is no need to do such things unless you have no other choice. You can just about always get bigger hp and lower Gpm submersible pumps to get enough pressure.
Thanks for the comment and watching!
Casey
can you run that snifter valve install and how it is putting air into the tank again thanks scott
Is there a particular standard for well pump motors? I'm a pool guy and this is identical motor wise to a hayward super pump for a pool cleaner. Do you ever replace a motor alone or always the entire pump assembly?
Hello I have a waterlogged Hobart glass lined well tank with the leaking air vine control setup that is leaking. I would like to replace the vine with an air release and snifter valve. The only air release I can find are called Deep Well. My well pump is a shallow well jet pump in a 25 foot deep well . will this "Deep Well" Air Release work? Where can I get a quality unit? Thank you Mike
Mike Starr unless you have a free flowing well do not convert to a sifter and air release. Your pump could lose prime if you do it this way and you don't have a flow well. Just replace your "Air Volume Control", drain the tank completely and then replace the AVC. Check the AVC after you fill tank back up, run it back down and see if it draws air. You should be able to check from the back or bottom of the AVC where it draws air when the pump comes on. You may need to turn down pressure of cut on to 35psi or less to get the AVC to pull air. It is crucial it will water logg the tank again if not set correctly. Thanks for the comment, Take care!
Ok I looked up free flowing well and I do not have that as I need to pump up my water. Is the "Air Volume Control "the same as a "Air Vine Control"? I see a different type on line. the leaking one I have looks like the on on the Video "Shallow Well Pump - diagnosis and repair" shown above. My new Gould J7 pump is set at 30-50 psi and runs to long and the motor is getting HOT. Hopefully draining the tank changing the Air Volume Control will fix this problem.
Can you recommend a quality Air Volume Control? Thank you for your help.
Hey sorry took me so long to get back, I dont know about a Vine, i think someone said i called it that but its not. There are only Air Volume Controls and Air Releases which can be called the same thing also. A avc controls how much air is in the tank, but other types used on shallow well and deep well pumps are the types that put air in the tank and do not overfill the tank with air. An air release only lets air out the tank, they do not put air in.
If your pump is just running and wont shut off dont let that happen for more than a few mins, it will melt the fittings when the pump runs hot. A pump runs hot after it cant build more pressure and just circulates water in the pump, heating the water near boiling and melting pvc. This can lead to melted jets, impellers and leaking shaft seals, so avoid this if you can. A defective AVC will make pump continue to run due to sucking air and losing prime. Replace the device and try pumping again, if it fails to get over 30 psi about then you may have to clean the jet out. On a shallow well pump, there should be a plug on the front of the pump snout near suction that is in the center of the impeller. Taking the plug out and inserting a thin screwdriver less than 1/8 diam. will usually clear a clog. Iron or plastic parts may be blocking the jet and preventing the pump from building more than 30 psi. Worst case you may need to take the pump apart to clean, but at this point if there is not a oring seal you would need a gasket to repair. You may need to call a water well service contractor at this point to repair the pump.
Thanks for the questions hope you were able to get things going before me getting back to you.
Casey
circuit breaker keeps tripping within a few seconds, we changed the cap and starter switch, could see burnt wire and starter switch was burnt also. Changed it out and circuit breaker still tripping. Need help Please...
If windings are burnt for sure there is nothing you can do. The motor or pump has to be replaced, check with pump supply company locally. Don't buy home depot, Lowes, tractor supply or harbor freight pumps and equipment!
@@ClearWaterPumpWell The wire that was burnt, was the red wire between the starter switch and cap. We replaced burnt wire and starter switch. Really can't tell if windings are burnt, what we can see, they look good. Hoping it is not the motor. Before it trips, motor sounds like it comes on, then trips. It was humming before we changed the cap. Getting ready to change out pressure switch, contacts are pitted and black. Don't know if that will help. Could a bad pressure switch cause a breaker to trip? We also got a new circuit breaker. lol, Thanks for your reply.
@@31rearea If it's tripping breaker instantly it's a short somewhere, make sure you check power to switch with it disconnected. Use a screwdriver between points so you can test it when your at the pump. Make sure your wire leads in motor are not routed near the clutch in center it can snag the wires and break them. They have to go under capacitor and start switch. If motor hums its one of 4 things wrong, power, capacitor, start switch and windings /wiring. It's not going to be the pressure switch, if you have power in and out to motor.
Hope you get it going.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell husband found white wire shorted from the power disconnect to pressure switch. The white wire was burnt in the metal flex. Up and running. Thanks for your reply.
the motor on shallow well tank is locked up. Can't turn in either direction.
Could be bearings or impeller but rarely , should bring to someone that can rebuild it or just replace with a starite pump.
I have a submersible well pump and big galv tank. Recently,air in our pipes in house. Nuisance ,noisy. Snifter valve is often letting out air.
What do I need go do to get air out of pipes? Thanks
Frank Lee, You would need to check the side of your tank in the middle port should be a "air release" if your tank is "air logged" and you have too much air, it can get in the house lines. Turn off the power to well and run water at a faucet close to well. Doing this should relieve some extra air. Check to see if the air releases or not. If no air is coming out then you will probably have to replace air release. Get one from a hardware or order one online. Make sure you drain all water and air pressure from your tank before you try to remove it.
Thanks for your question and let me know if you need anything else. Be good!
Thank you!
@@ClearWaterPumpWell wouldn't using bladder tank solve the air bleed issues? It really is hard to beat the well pump with tank at Harbor Freight. Maybe not for a whole house in the long run I guess. Mine is for alternate and outdoor water supply. But, it is drinkable water.
@@cyoteone No that would not fix the issue, the air control system is not removing the excess air. Installing a bladder tank will not remove any air from the submersible pump and tank system. Replacing the air release on the tank will fix the issue. Try pulling a submersible pump hanging over 100 feet on a bladder tank and you'll never want to do it again. Standard tanks are more reliable to use than bladder on submersible pump installations.
So I just got an offer to remove all of the components of a system like this. Can I just cut everything out? The only thing after is to cut power to it and I’ll remove it from the breaker. I’ll probably leave the hole and cap it so if anyone ever wants to use the well the know it’s there.
@@EternalGaze8 yes you can just cut everything out but the new water system will have to be tied into the outlet going to the house.
In regards to capping the well it either has to be intended to be used in the future or properly abandoned according to most State rules.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell thanks!
I have a submersible pump well i open the cover top of the motor i see the motor turn slowly then i change starting capacitor but it turn slowly again..please help me
It could be the wrong voltage, make sure the voltage selected on motor is the same as the breaker in panel. 120- but set 240 will make it run slow and over load. 240- and set 120 will make it run crazy fast for a few seconds and overload.
Thanks for the comment.
Casey
What the problem if the winding is very hard to turn. because i saw your video you turn your winding is a smooth but i turn my winding it is a very hard...
@@markianvelasco5851,. That could mean your pump impeller is binding or the bearings are going bad. Did it make any loud screeching noises before it quit working? If so it was probably the bearings, depending on the pump you could take it apart and check the impeller. But please make sure that it is a problem inside the pump before you open it up.
Kind of dangerous standing in the wet water and then letting it spray all over. Why didn't you just kill the breaker? Thanks for the video though.
Brian Eckert ,Yea I was I should have not been doing that. The well, pump and tank was in a cutout in the floor of shed. Very hard to work in but I just had to show it had everything wrong with it. I'm very comfortable around electricity been doing it for 20 years. Thanks for the concern and I'm definitely not intending on anyone doing exactly what I did. Just showing the sound the motor makes when it's not starting. Thanks for the comment, take it easy.
A GFI outlet for the pump is a good idea too...😉
@@ClearWaterPumpWell No offense but, when we become too comfortable around electricity we tend to get complacent. I tripped an 800 amp breaker to a small switch gear because I got cocky and tried to remove the mounting fingers to the bus bar from an older style breaker to get ready for the new mounts for a new breaker. Rather than shut off the 480 volts to the switch gear I removed one leg just fine. Was the second one that hit the third one when I pulled it out with my Klein side cutters. I had turned my head and closed my eyes about the time I pulled back to remove it. Just heard loud pop and a bright flash through my eyelids. Felt it too. Could have blown the entire thing up in my face. When I opened my eyes, it was very dark in that section of the building. Was very stupid. since then, I have been nervous around electricity. Makes me a bit safer when handling it. Just takes one time to be stupid.
@@cyoteone I agree with that, I only work with the power disconnected. With 120 v if you Tripp a leg it's no big deal hardly makes a spark. You might brush it with your hand from time to time, that's not fun and believe you jump!
Certain make breakers sometimes can be hard to trip over a long distance. 120 volt too. In commercial jobs, you try to short wires to trip the breaker and the pipE rattle with the wires jumping. Think its more the ge breakers. Cant remember.
Oohhh please help, my pump motor gets hot then kicks off, the pressure stitch is working
richard myers Your motor is overloading, make sure you don't have it covered up and it can get air flow to motor. If it only runs for a few seconds then overheats it could be a binding impeller, burnt windings, low voltage or bad capacitor. Not something you should try fixing yourself call a local water well service company.
Thanks for the comment, Casey
@@ClearWaterPumpWell thank you so much, I figured it out, it was set up for 240v and we had 120v going to it. Once I realized this and moved the wires to the appropriate connection it works like a charm!! Thank you for your reply!! Bless you!!!
richard myers yep that can definitely happen to especially when installing a pump.
Take care
U still answering questions?
Yes, how can I help you?
Wow! That’s awesome u responded! I actually got it fixed but I thank you for your availability and informative vid! My shallow well pump went out and I replaced it...pretty easy just $250 I didn’t really want to spend lol
@@levikemp929 Glad you got it going, just hope you didn't buy a home depot, or tractor supply pump.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell Im telling you, My Harbor Freight Well Pump is bad to the bone. One shot full of prime water and it pulls the water every time. Has 5 star reviews all up and down the site. If I ever get around to leaving a review, so far for me, its a 5 too.
@@cyoteone Dont promote Chinese garbage harbor freight products here, people need to know to avoid throw away products! You will find out the hard way that you have wasted your money on a cheap thrill toy. It may do fine for a hunting camp you visit once a year, but still not worth feeding the animals that make these garbage products.
Good Vid! Very instructional. Wonder how many motors I have thrown away when all I needed was a part or two. Thanks!
I just replaced the 1HP pump on my shallow well (70'+)feet deep with water table at 15 to 20') (Good Water) The old pump lasted one year and a month, (Thats with use in the mornings to water the garden last August/September and this summer garden use). the shaft broke between the motor and pump. Pump was very noisy (bearings?) from the install. I bought the extended warranty and the replacement Pump was free at the cost of a new extended warranty. New pump installed, no leaks, no runs, no errors, runs much quieter, But the pump won't hold prime. I'm thinking Foot Valve has gone bad! Your Thoughts? The foot valve was replaced a year and a month or so ago. .The old foot valve spring was broken. I've thrown away 3 well pumps and have 3 old used ones in storage that something went wrong and I replaced. I've had the well 25+ years, now on my sixth pump. Help!
Here's a funny for you. I set up a table saw many years ago to cut 2" foam insulated board. The one horse motor lasted two days. I went and bought a 2 horse motor that lasted another 2 days. I bought a 5 horse enclosed motor that still works to this day. I took the BAD motors to a repair shop. The contacts had plasticized over from the foam dust.Contacts were cleaned, All Motors still working today.
Last night I was sitting outside with my dog and a fire and a gin when suddenly the sound of my pump running non stop worked it’s way through my peace. The pressure valve reads 30 no matter what. I left it off overnight. After work the next day replaced the 30/50. No luck.
Can you point me in a direction?
I’m new to pump world. Pumps in the basement. I know nothing about the well.
Thank you for the detailed video. Which is better a brass or plastic foot valve? I "believe" I have a leak on the suction side of the 1 1/4" line going into the well casing. When I put my ear up to this pipe with the water pump OFF and at 50 psi I can hear it slowly leaking. Not a sound on the pump side. The pump will turn on at 30 psi but then drops to zero (lost prime) and then back up to 50 psi. In addition to the foot valve there is a check valve immediately before the Sear Hydro-Glass Shallow Well Jet pump housing. I had replaced the foot valve years ago with a brass one. This is a 30 foot well. Thinking of pulling up the suction side plastic pipe to replace the foot valve but am I on the right track as doing so is not a fun project? This all happened a week after I shocked the well. Thanks in Advance for your response.
Hey, good question, it's possible if you hear water running back into the well it could be a few things. Check for a split in the pipe, cracked adapter on foot valve, or leaking foot valve seat form wear or obstruction. Hopefully you have room to pull the drop pipe and put in a tree or on a roof as to not break the pvc.
Brass valves are best I recommend a Flomatic or Simmons brand valves. If the well can be completely sealed you can remove the foot all together and adapt a direct suction on the well casing and have a check valve above ground near the pump. The advantages of it is less restriction and easier to change valve. Initially priming will take longer to pull watertable up to the check valve, once there it's not a problem.
Thanks for the comment and watching,
Casey
Thanks for the reply. It was my foot valve. I dug about 4ft by 6ft hole to find the casing.
Hi, yes you helped me. I couldn’t figure out what that air line was for. I plugged mine off and it seems to work great. But I’m pumping from an above ground tank, not a well.
You can do that if you have a bladder or diaphragm tank but not a standard as you will need it hooked up to AVC.
hello THANKS FOR POSTING YOU VIDEO IT HAS GIVEN ME ENOUGH CONFIDENCE TO TAKE APART THE FAMILY'S WELL
are you still around to answer questions...my parents have the same looking well , dad past so i'm trying to keep things going..mom called me 1 day said the well was squirting water and she turned the switch off...i went over and found out the pressure points water line had came off and flooded the hole the pump is in..motor had became somewhat submerged as the pump stayed on since the pressure switch had no pressure (i was surprised the motor was still running w/ it under water.) but would not start back up...pump was warm as it was running a while before realizing water squirting up...i tried playing w/ the pressure points they arc as usual w/ the switch on and we hear a slight hum JUST LIKE YOURS oh, yes we put the pressure points line back on but pump is not pumping. i pulled the motor out as it was a tight area pulled the cover off w/ help from your video figured i'd clean out some debris and since it hummed hoped it might start up No luck winding didn't look black, pulled the start switch cleaned the points on it , pressure switch points.. all back together and still nothing....
I am wonder if you could help me figure out how to test a couple things thinking to test the motor when out , the capacitor....TIA
If the motor went under water and was trying to run, then the windings are shorted out probably. If the capacitor and start switch are good then you will have to replace the pump. Motors are hard to get for these pumps.
I’m watching you for the info I have a I’ll pump after it’s done filling up the tank and shut off to three minutes later it cut back on and it makes violent chugging noise what could that be
What type of pump do you have is it submersible or like this one above ground?
Jplus jet pump J10
Jplus jet pump j10s it makes that noise after the tank is filled two minutes later it starts chugging in violently and it’s a new one
@@solidtangent9953 If it does it only initially it is probably cavitation and pressure should be adjusted to stop it. Usually turning the pressure up a bit and making sure pump turns off in 30-60 secs.
Say get setting to 40-60 psi is normal for shallow well pump.
hi, I have a question, I have a 600 gallon water tank up the roof, and I bought a flow switch to stop the motor once water is low,which the wires are blue brown and black my motor wires are the same colors. I match the wires up by color and when I plug the power cord to the motor it spark on wall and burn the receptacle ,do you know which wire go to the switch , help will be appreciated.
You will have to read up on the instructions on that one, not familiar with float switching pumps. The colors don't even make sense, should be a black power and a blue or red you hook to pump. If your switching it then power needs to go through float to motor. Good luck.
Thanks
Dude, I've been wrestling with my well water pump for far longer than I care to think about. I just watched your video and I think you've given some real insight into how to make it more reliable. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yes this method works extremely well but on a flow well that has atleast a few psi to pump. The other way is to use an aerator and air release to maintain air charge in the tank. Also reliable but can start causing excess iron to drop out and stain plumbing fixtures.
Thanks for the comment and watching,
Casey
@@ClearWaterPumpWell My issue wasn't actually directly related to your video but I've had so much trouble finding reliable informatoin about air volume control valves. I've long susptected the last person to work on our pump didn't really know what they were doing. Watching your vid Iwas able to get a little better idea how things are supposed to be connected. I did a little troubleshooting and found out the AVC was connected to the output side of the tank instead of the suction. I'm gonna run to Home Depot soon and get some pieces/parts and try to straighten it out.
@@dizzy_derps Oh ok gotcha, so that's right an AVC requires suction from the pump to operate. My old video shows the replacement of one, but I need to do a newer and more detailed video about AVC's. ua-cam.com/video/Ova5Wx3DQlI/v-deo.html
Thanks again, and let me know if you have any trouble, I may be able to help you further.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell If you don't mind me picking your brain again, I put the AVC on the suction side and now my pump will cycle on when I open a faucet but it never gets all the way up to pressure. I think my shut off is 60 psi and it just floats at 55. Once I close the valve it'll hit 60 and shut off like normal. This make any sense to you?
@@dizzy_derps That's what it should be doing but your cycle time from pump on to off with out using water should be 30 seconds or more.
My shallow well pump isn't getting any pressure. It runs when primed and acts like its trying to pull water. But again it act like it isnt getting pressure. Can I get some advice on what might be wrong?
Do you have an Air volume control on your tank?
@@ClearWaterPumpWell not to my knowledge... it's just a basic well pump that is inside the house. The residence hasnt had running water in close to 3 years. It seems it doesnt matter how much water I put in it still doesn't get any pressure. It acts like it wants to pull the water from the well. Could it possibly be the foot that is causing my issue?
@@graceprose9347 if the pump runs and throws water and air out prime port, there is nothing wrong with the pump. If it fills completely up with water and does not drain down or make a load sucking noise when turned off the foot valve should be fine. You probably have a suction leak on the line from the well to the pump, it could be a cracked pipe, bad glue joint or loose at threaded connections. If the water table is too far down over 20' the pump will be very hard to prime and not pump high pressure.
I'm having this same issue and I do have a air volume control. Please help
I had a galvanized tank with what I think you are calling an air vine control and a Myers hj50s pump . Tank developed a leak and I replaced with a bladder tank and plugged the inlet in the pump where the tubing went
Will that be a problem?
Nope thats how you convert to a bag tank, so long as your pressure setting on switch relative to air charge in tank you should have no issues. Atleast you didnt try to put the avc back in line i have seen people do that. Thanks for the comment let me know if you have any other questions!
@@ClearWaterPumpWell i
Have a shallow well 3 yr, old jet pump, new (3yr old) lines & footvalve.
Pump losing pressure within several minutes with no taps on.
Kill power & pressure will go to zero.
Could faulty tank or pump malfunction cause this?
Hate the thought of pulling line up again! thanks for the help you offer.
If you make sure valve is off on tank going to the house, then check for leaks around from well to pump and tank. Even look for air leak or that your tank may be waterlogged, it should be near empty at 0 psi. Just because it has no pressure does not mean tank is still not full of water. Check cycle time from pump on to off after running a faucet till on. Should be at least or more than 30 seconds run time. If it holds pressure for a bit but slowly drains, then listen close to well pipe with ear. If you hear water flowing the it's a leaking foot valve or split in fittings or pipe.
Thanks for the comment and watching!
Casey
Hi Casey.. I have narrowed it down to most likely the footvalve. I tried to install a brass check valve near pump
And a “T” with a cap near it for priming. I primed pump & the t repeatedly & ran pump for 2-3 minutes each time
But I cannot get it to prime now. Do you see a problem with doing this to try to avoid digging.?
I’d appreciate any more ideas. No water is No fun. Thanks Casey
@@joes8275 Check for suction leaks also, the pump should be able to prime very easily. A bad foot valve will not prevent pump from priming, but only leak back and cause pump to cycle after shutting off. Make sure when pump is full of water and prime plug loose or off that pump can throw water out. This will tell you pump end should be good and no problem with impeller. If you have a AVC "air volume control" installed on tank with line to the pump suction, make sure it's not defective. Clap, kink, or plug tubing to check it, if pump catches prime its bad.
Thanks,
Casey
@@ClearWaterPumpWell Yes, pump is throwing water....and lots of air after installing the check valve.
I tried for hours to get it to prime but no go. The best I got was up to about 28psi just under cut-in but when
I cracked open valve to feed house piping it dropped right away.Note that I only added check valve to see
If I could avoid digging again . Before that it primed ok after 2-3 tries , hits 50 psi in15-25 seconds but back to
30 psi in one minute or less.Repeat.I have a well about 45’ deep & footvalve down about 28’ (old one was the same depth & no
Problems for 35 years) Never thought I would have to dig again! I appreciate you trying to help.Many Thanks Casey.
@@joes8275 Yea if it barely primes but with plug loose continues to bleed air then you have a suction leak. It's anywhere from pump to the well, check threaded and recent glued joints for leaks. Pressure up with air compressor if you can through a faucet or 1/4 plug connection. Use soapy water in spray bottle to find air leak along suction line.
If it's not visible anywhere it must be drawing down, but 28' is beyond max lift on a shallow well pump "depending on pumps elevation to water table and well casing to end of drop pipe".
Am just in awe of what I’m understanding in your easy going matter of fact explanations. Thanks
Glad to hear, been doing it long enough I should!
If nothing else, you are the FIRST person on UA-cam that can wrap teflon tape the right way AND in the right direction !! Nice vid !
Hahaha thanks!
I subscribed you know your stuff. I’m watching videos on well pumps before I get back to replacing my pump, Thanks
Appreciate it! Yea I'm going to be doing more hopefully soon all about diy repairs the right way.
I'm surprised the snifter valve doesn't bring in enough air to lose prime on the pump on a shallow no flowing well. With this well flowing I'm sure that helps keep it from losing prime. Do you run into issues with getting air in the houses? I know the air release on the tank takes care of most of it but on wells we have that hit air with submersible pumps, sometimes the bubbles are small enough to carry through the pressure tank and end up in the faucets. It's just a nuance issue most of the time.
Kenny
Hey Kenny, not really at most even with a standard tank you will still get dissolved air in the water.
Even on a flow well it usually stops drawing air around 40 psi when the jet kicks in.
In this wells case the old AVC's just wont work without throttling the valve on the flow.
Its also very effective on flow wells that have H2s, cause your always getting new air in and old air out the air release.
Heck i have even seen a phenomenon where a standard tank without a AVC never lost its air charge, the guy swore that he had not put air in the tank in years!
My only conclusion was that the H2s had replaced all the air in the tank over the years and had become saturated.
This more less seemed that the water was so concentrated with H2s that it would not redissolve into the water!
Anyways Thanks for the comment, Casey
Best video so far on old style tank
That is what people don't understand this in not a old design of a tank. It's just a different type used for different applications, bladder tanks are just as old. Whether it's a metal or fiberglass it can still be the same type.
Thanks for the comment and watching,
Casey
you are amazing! Most people would have just wanted her to put a new well in! Good job!
Thanks for the comment, yes it happens for sure.
My well pump keeps running and I have no loss of water in the house. I haven’t found a leak either. Could it be the pressure switch? Pressure gets to 50 and bounces there.
It depends on what you mean by bouncing, the pressure or the pump turning on and off quickly.
Hello sir I have a question I have a 24-inch well that is between 45 and 50 foot deep the water level is at 36 ft the foot valve is 8 deep foot valve blinds Tupac pump bladder tank pressure switches and gauges and ball valve going to house have all been replaced new I can Prime the lines and pump and still only get 5 to 10 lb of pressure maximum at Bast which drops to zero upon opening opening the valve going to the house any suggestions
PS I meant to say the lines between the foot valve and the pump have been replaced
Where was the check valve in your video? Presume it had to be before the inlet side of the pump motor to hold pressure on the system.
The check valve or "Foot Valve" is located in the well casing on the end of 30' of 1" PVC. I had only been there to repair the issue and had not installed the pump or the tank.
Hi ! I have a question. My pump is running (on) but water stopped completely coming out. The tank has no water in it as well. What could be the problem ?
If you have a AVC check to see if it's causing pump to lose prime. If a deep well pump it could be a problem with the jet.
I have an A.O. Smith well pump motor that just hums like the one in this video. The pump runs on 230V, "1081" Design, ST 1052, 1/2 HP, which capacitor should I get for this pump? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for posting the video!
Usually the 1/2 hp AO motor takes a 124-149 range capacitor. But some newer ones will have the standard 161-193. Just check to see which one is currently in the motor. Check the windings and start switch also for damage.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell awesome, will do and thanks for the quick reply! Much appreciate it!
Our tank just suddenly stop and I don't know how to fix it pls help me
If you explain what type of pump you have, that would help. Your tank just stopped doesn't make any sense.
I have an application. I have natural 4psi water supply feeding my pump motor through a check valve. I have the same type of tank setup and believe it is getting water logged. My system does not have a snifter as you show in your system a but does have a tank vent I believe it rotted and non functional. Where do I need to install the snifter? On the low pressure side of the check valve or on the pump as you've shown. (my pump runs between 40 and 60. Wouldn't that be too high to stick the snifter on the motor?)
This type only works on a flow well as the pump would lose prime sucking in air. If you have positive pressure coming in you should be able to use one. I would watch closely for a wile to be sure. Put a air release on the tank to maintain air volume. You may need to turn cut in pressure to 35 in order to draw air if not working 40-60. A snifter valve is a specific type of air valve with a very soft spring to allow the vacuum to open it. The snifter should be installed on the suction side of the pump.
Flow wells - ua-cam.com/video/-0SAkopL7dE/v-deo.html
@@ClearWaterPumpWell please explain flow well. I am tapped into an artesian well. I cannot lose prime. You explained the foot valve and I understand, it holds pressure on the system. Where would I place a snifter valve, on the pump inlet like you did?
@@bobgutman9691 please read previous comment I edited what I said earlier, should answer questions.
Quick question, my pump hums just like and wont start but if I give the case a SMALL tap it starts. Is it the Bearings or capacitor? I'm guessing bearings.
Well it depends on what you are hitting. If the motor starts but makes a screaming sound it's bearings. If your hitting the motor it's probably the start switch, check points with power off. Lightly sand them to get working again. The capacitor will fail if it keeps not starting and gets too hot. Don't let it keep humming for long.
Thanks, Casey
@@ClearWaterPumpWell Fortunately I was in the basement near the pump when it happened so the longest it has hummed is about 5 seconds. I thought the bearings were seizing up but you were right, I cleaned the points and I haven't had an issue since then. Thanks from Northern MN
Just saw the Google post, I appreciate it. Glad you got it going! Send me a picture of the well system through the email, would like to see what kind of setup you have up there.
Had a question maybe you could answer. How do you know if a well even has water bought home and tank is there motor and electric parts seemed to be taken.
If you just bought the house and it looks like the well pump has been stolen then just contract a local company to check the system out. They can make sure the well is still good and nothing else was damaged also replace the pump and get water back to the house. Thanks for the comment,
Casey
The plastic trianglular piece in middle i think you are calling Start Switch is there another name for it or where do i find it? I do not see one on ebay or amazon
curtis p here is a link for one at a good price online. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262886096917
Thanks Alot, Is there a way of testing the old one? I just took mine off and its burned in between the two metal contacts but i read online if its bad it makes a humming sound. Mine just went out and makes no noise at all i replaced the capacitor because i had a extra on hand and still will not turn on or make any noise. I looked in hole on side copper wires were good.
curtis p you have to make sure you can see the start windings, and the switch can just be sanded to diagnose first. With a good switch, capacitor and free spinning motor it should run unless something wrong with windings. Also make sure you have the same MF rating for the capacitor it should be a 161-193 for 1/2-1 HP starite pumps. If it's not close to that it will not start also.
Thanks a million i hit those burned contacts on the Start Switch with the dremel to get black off put it back on and it started right up!! Now i have time to order a new one and have water.
curtis p Good deal man, you make the 8 th person I got water today! Getting one water right now still working at 10! Take it easy bud.
Where to begin??? My shallow jet pump is old as dirt and with that said here’s my story.
1- I replaced my pressure tank with a Home Depot 20 gallon tank and it was already set to almost 44 psi.
2- Being that it was already pre-set I figured I don’t have to mess with it and everything would be fine. So I got a new pressure switch 40-60 because the old one was shot anyways.
So I lowered the pressure tank to 38 psi.
3- I don’t have to mess with it, right? But no! My pressure switch was not rising above 30 psi. So I figured I may have some leaks and I don’t to my amazement. But it was still at 30 psi. So I start counting the turns on the pressure switch and NADA. It won’t go beyond 30 psi even if I screwed that thing always to the bottom. It turns on at almost 12 psi and turns off at maybe 28 psi. I do count the turns I make on the pressure switch.
It can’t be the capacitor because it turning on. It can’t be electrical because it’s turning on too.
Then again what do I know.
So the other day before jumping into the shower I turn on the water but I don’t trust my pump. So I’m listening to the pump and it never clicked off but was make that humming noise just like in your video. I turned off the pump from inside the house and went outside and I could barely touch the thing it was so hot. The next day it was working fine except for the 30 psi issue I’m having. My source of water is a 600 gallon tank at 2 feet away if that.
So I’ve seen all sorts of videos but none a clear as yours. I don’t know if I should replace the pump already or see if it could be fixed before running out and buying a new jet pump with the very little cash flow that I have. Did I mention I had a couple of technicians over but really didn’t convince me one bit. One of them even screwed on my brand new check valve backwards and told me that it was damaged until I mentioned what he did. Can you imagine that? No reliability. Sorry about the sob story. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Hey, sounds like the jet on the pump is clogged, loose or broken. What brand of pump do you have? Don't run it longer than 5-10 mins without shutting off and not moving any water as hung on 30psi with valve to supply off. It will only get damaged more if left running, it's possible to fix easy if I know more about it. So your using a tank as your water supply? What is the source of water to fill the tank? I'll be happy to help if I know more about the system.
Thanks for the comment and watching,
Casey
@@ClearWaterPumpWell
I have a craftsman shallow well jet pump 1/2 hp with dual voltage Model # 390.2521. It also has a code 001G07P 006. The motor is C48H2EC11C3. Today I changed the pressure switch to a 20/40 and dropped the pressure tank to 18 thinking that if its only giving me 30 maybe it'll stop at 30 and turn on at 20. No luck, man! My capacitor is fine, amps are fine according to the electrician that dropped by today. He says there nothing wrong with the motor. It's working fine to me. I don't think it's fine. This is mind boggling. I don't dare crack it open nor do I know of any technicians that know about these units. Sears shut down shop so here I am trying to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to here me out on this. I really appreciate it. If I find myself having to buy a new pump what should I invest in? Of course that would be when I'm called back to work. Whenever that is.
@@captsax that is a very old plastic pump model, the jet cracks or seal blows out inside. I know how to repair possibly with no parts.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell
How?
@@captsax You can split pump apart easily and look inside on the suction side of the pump end to see what's wrong with the jet. It's a metal band with nut like a giant stainless clamp, drain the system pressure, remove metal band clamp and split open pump. It has a o-ring gasket that's reusable, don't remove it or stretch it, put it back in groove if it falls out. I'll need to contact you by text message so you can send me a picture of it and I can share the fix. Contact me tomorrow evening and I'll try to help you. Send me a email through UA-cam.
I am having a similar issue , the pump runs hot but when I turn it off for a few minutes to a hour it kicks back in fine. for a day or so or few weeks it varies. The pump is only less than 4 months old. Nothing is corroded or burnt I checked it should I still replace the Capacitor
The issue you're having is probably not a problem with the pump. Your tank is more likely the issue, being waterlogged having too much water and not enough air. What type of tank do you have is it a bladder with a valve stem on top, or a standard tank with an Air volume control on the side?
@@ClearWaterPumpWell Standard tank with a Air volume on the side
@@AngeloBHall does the pump kick on and off rapidly like every few seconds when you run the water?
@@ClearWaterPumpWell No
@@AngeloBHall the only other thing it could be is a binding impeller or bad bearings. Does it make any squealing noises or motor seem to be under a higher load at times and bog down? The pump may trip the breaker or get too hot and turn off also.
Thank you for posting this video. I have to replace the pump switch after having no water one day. Points stuck together, but not connecting. Sanded them and had water again. I have the small pressure connection as you showed on the bottom of the switch. I went out today with hopes of changing this out, but hadn't come across your video until now. I didn't want to break anything so I put everything back together. I tried to get air into the bladder tank, but couldn't get more than 10psi while I thought the tank would be empty from draining down the system. Pressure gauge still read 37psi so I am going to replace it as I suspect it may no longer be accurate, but it shows motor coming on at 30 and off at 50. Very informative video
Yes if tank still has any water at all left and wont drain out its defiantly busted bladder/air cell. The reason your switch is giving you trouble is due to the fact the tank is waterlogged, the short cycle will burn up the point and the motor/other components. Make sure when you replace the tank the pressure in tank is a few pounds less than the pressure setting. For a 30-50 setting tank air pressure should be 25-28 psi. Make sure to check it yearly and air back up also to extend the life of your tank.
Thanks for your comment!
Casey
What if there's no buzz anymore and the pump is completely cold?
Yea good question, I have found this usually means there is a broken wire somewhere, outside or inside the motor. Have found bad connections in the motor from vibration or shorting out. Be very careful turn off power and ohm out wires and visually look for burnt spots or breaks. The windings themselves can be broken or burned in two, causing motor to not run. Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@ClearWaterPumpWell initially, it was doing this buzz noise before it stopped working all together. Is it at better at this point to replace the pump? Its over 25 years old.
@@ClearWaterPumpWell I did check the bundle of wires that you said that if they looked black or brown or any kind of discoloration that the motor is bad, and they look perfect. Kind of a blue color with some copper coloring intertwined. Will the pump still have some kind of warmth even if the pressure switch is bad? I checked the wires coming from the pump and to the switch and they have power. The contacts were pretty black on the switch though. Will dirty contacts still supply a current?
Also in terms of the broken or shorted wire, will I need to actually go inside the pump and look at the motor? Are the windings the blue bundle of wires that you're talking about?
@@tcookie12 The windings are probably heat tempered when they look blue or purple, they didn't quite burn up yet. But it sounds bad enough not to run. If it's still not making any noise, then there is still a broken wire somewhere. The pressure switch could be a problem, turn off power and put both sets of wires on each side under one screw on each side. This will bypass the switch, see if it does anything then. Lots of ways to test even if you don't have a meter.
I have a question ,hope you can help ,I have a 1.5 hp and the points were burnt , then some one brought me a pressure switch that was 20-40 and my tank is 82 gallons , and I replaced the start and run compacitors , the pressure switch will only come on when I push the restart , then shut off and will not come on by its self , very little water when this does happen any thing I can do to get this fixed? thanks for any help
Need to know what type of pump you have and when you say push restart, where is that at?
it is a in a steel casing in the ground , the restart is on the pump control box , and only will start when I hit the restart button, the goes off about 2-3 seconds and then I only have very little water until I hit restart again, it will not stay on, and the water runs out quick since there is very little. just replaced the correct compacitors
It is either the start relay in the control box or a bad motor or pump end, binding or locking up. You can do checks with a meter to find out if its the relay. These are hard to get nowadays no one carries just the parts. You might have to replace whole control box. If the pump is very old like 20 years, it would be best to just replace the pump with a new one without control box.
ok thank you so much ,I thought it might have to with the new points being 20-40
@@Rebecca230 The pressure switch won't be the problem, it's points are closed and ready for power. The resets are getting overloaded from the issue.
How do you prime this type of pump
You remove the plug or gauge from the top of the pump, then fill with water. Replace the plug and leave it loose oh, turn the pump on and allow the air to come out. When water pressure starts squirting out then you can tighten the plug.
ok need to know how to do it thank you
Please be careful, have someone who is comfortable around electricity, or please call a water well repair company.
Where are you located
Jonathan Jasie I'm in Louisiana
Listen, the guy is good. I did electrical work of all kinds for 30+ years and I recognize his skill. Terminology was correct, diagnosis was accurate, the customer may not have known how much he was looking out for their interests, but he was. Not sure of his prices, but he did it right. Kudos.
Thanks for the comment and kind words. I appreciate your explanation and experience as an electrician.
Working on water wells allows me to have multiple skills required for the job. I have worked as an electrician and plumber, but you also need mechanical skills and understanding of water hydraulics and chemistry.
Thanks again and take care Kind Sir!
Casey
@@ClearWaterPumpWell
FYI for your viewers.
Electrician here as well. Most modern digital multi-meters (not necessarily expensive) have a capacitor check function. They can also be checked with analog meters as well. Helps those on a budget to know if they need one or not.
Thanks for this great video, I'm hassling with my pump as well which brought me here.
@@johntrauger68 Thanks, John yea that's good way to check too. I was trying to show how to Identify parts that are defective just by looking at them.
Flex tape!