Thank you for the video! I started nalbinding a hat top down, changed yarn and realised that I now have to decrease it slightly so that it will actually fit me, and you make it look so easy! I'll be able to finish the hat in no time now 😊
You are the first person who I liked teaching me. You don't give any rubbish about your life or how you started. Just straight into very clear and concise videos. I have tried and tried and at last, I can do the Oslo stitch; not the neatest but that will come with time. I am waiting to become a bit better with what I have learned before I tackle your last video. Please carry on your excellent lessons with more stitches. One happy little Nordic bunny here. Snow bunny?
Thank you so much for this series. I've been trying to learn it to make things for re-enactment and I've watched loads of videos and been taught in person and couldn't pick it up. I watched these and in a couple of days I've made a pair of wrist warmers and I'm starting on a hat!
I love learning new skills, and this ancient one is brand new to me. Never even heard the term before! So being an avid crochet hooker, I have oodles of yarn to try with. Thank you so much for your very clear instructions.
@@bonsaiwoman3231 It is taking a lot of practice. I keep getting a mess or dropped loops, and it is very hard to undo to fix problems. Slowly but surely I am getting the hang of it. I only just realized in the last test swatch, that i need to drop the back loop and hold onto the needle as soon as i twist it and go under the front loop and working thread. I kept having trouble with the new loop not going around my thumb right.. that fixed the problem. I am really enjoying learning this. Thanks again!
And here i thought a person had to have 100% wool. Nice to know 50/50 works too. Another interesting point i read about is that nalbinding used the leftover yarn from weaving. Theres so much waste yarn and its such a shame to throw it away. So im spreading the word in the weaving community. Your instructions are clear and concise so i will recommend your site.
@@marlenecheladyn6450 As long as there is enough wool in the yarn to get the ends to felt together, you can use this spit splice method for joining. You can even nalbind with cotton or linen by using a different joining method such as the Russian join, or by overlapping the old and new yarns for a few stitches, then dropping the old and continuing with the new. You will have to go back though and tidy up any loose ends by weaving in and trimming. And yes - nalbinding is great for using up leftover yarn! Glad you found the instructions clear.
What a delightful series ... thank you for providing clear, concise instructions. I come from a textile background but have never heard of nalbinding. I'm just mastering the Mayan spindles I bought from you & will use the plyed yarn to try this technique out. 😊
Excellent! Nalbinding with your own handspun will create a fabric with lots of character. Glad you found the instructions easy to follow and I hope you’re enjoying your spinning!
Thank you for your videos. You do a great job. This video did leave some unanswered questions for someone who knows nothing about doing it, though. Another viewer asked about increasing stitches (how often) to have the wrist warmer flare out and you answered them, two per round. But, what about when you want the rounded top of a hat and double-stitch? Same thing, a couple of double stitches per each round, or more than that... how do you go from the full size round to the completed "dome" where the last stitch(es) is/are in the center, the top of the hat? Thank you.
In order to shape the top of a hat, you need to decrease rapidly. In the mini hat sample I show in this video, I have decreased in every stitch in the final row. eg. I have picked up two stitches from the previous row in every stitch. Then I threaded my yarn through all the loops and pulled them tight. This brings in the final stitches to create the top. I then passed the needle through the centre point to the inside of the hat and wove in the end of the yarn. When making hats you need to constantly try them on and guage how rapidly you need to decrease in order to create the shape you are after. To be honest, most of the nalbound hats you see are made from the top down using a different starting method called a round start. A lot of people find it easer to shape from the top down rather than from the bottom up.
How would you do a flat piece to make for an example a coaster for your table? How would you turn to go back a forth to form rows? This was a great video! Thank you.
You can create a flat round piece of nalbinding by doing a different type of start called a round start. With this type of start you increase to ensure the work stays flat. You can do a flat oval piece by turning a chain back on itself, skipping the first few stitches, then connecting and stitching around the chain. For oval pieces be sure to increase at the ends of the chain to keep the work flat. You can also nalbind flat pieces of fabric by going back and forth. You turn the chain back on itself, skip the first few connecting stitches, then stitch as usual. You will need to turn at each side of your piece. The nalbinding will look different because of the changes in direction, so one row will look like the "front" and the next will look like the "back". Also, the edges tend to look a bit messy and uneven, so it's a good idea to do a row of stitches around the edge when you've finished the piece.
@@bonsaiwoman3231 Could you maybe one day do a video showing the back and forth with the turning chain? Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. :)
Question: I am completely new to nålebinding and I am working on a papir of wristwarmers and have got to the point where I want to increase. Do I just make 1 increase stitch pr round pr should every stitch in a round be an increase - stitch?
When I make wrist warmers I nalbind until I’m happy with the length, then I add two rounds where I just make two increase stitches in each round. This will create a slightly wider section at the top of your warmer which will sit comfortably at the base of your palm and stop the warmer from sliding down.
I am learning nalebinding currently. I believe I am using the boren stitch, where you have 3 loops on your needle before you twist and pull it through the thumb loop. But my work always looks to loose, like a triple crochet pattern. Is the Oslo stich more like a single crochet where the pattern is tighter?
I don't crochet, so I'm afraid I can't make a comparison for you. What you are describing sounds like the Korgen stitch. It has an F1 connection like the Oslo, but you pick up two loops behind the thumb before twisting and pulling through the thumb loop. The Korgen stitch actually creates a denser fabric because of that extra loop, so the stitching generally looks tighter than the Oslo stitch. You may want to try using a thicker yarn, particularly if you have a large thumb! The thickness of the yarn makes a huge difference to the appearance of the stitches and the "tightness" of the fabric. You may also want to investigate tensioning your stitches on your needle instead of your thumb for smaller stitches.
You're working in a spiral so your beginning and end never actually "meet", they just overlap. That's the little step that you can see when you finish your work. Once you have made your garment as long as you want, and your spiral has returned to the start (so your beginning and end line up with one another), then you can take your work off your thumb and neaten the end as per the next video. I hope this answers your question Tammy.
I see what you mean - my hand does move out of shot. The focus of this video though is the connection because that’s where you increase or decrease. The rest of the stitch is exactly the same as the Oslo stitch in the previous videos.
Thank you for the video! I started nalbinding a hat top down, changed yarn and realised that I now have to decrease it slightly so that it will actually fit me, and you make it look so easy! I'll be able to finish the hat in no time now 😊
Great! I’m glad you can finish your project now with a better fit!
Vikki Thank you!! I can not wait to start nalbinding! You truly make it look so doable!!
Glad the videos have encouraged you to give it a go.
You are the first person who I liked teaching me. You don't give any rubbish about your life or how you started. Just straight into very clear and concise videos.
I have tried and tried and at last, I can do the Oslo stitch; not the neatest but that will come with time.
I am waiting to become a bit better with what I have learned before I tackle your last video.
Please carry on your excellent lessons with more stitches.
One happy little Nordic bunny here. Snow bunny?
Thank you for such a great review! I’m so glad my teaching style suits you and you’ve been able to get started with nalbinding.
I have now watched all 4 videos, and now I am more excited then ever to do this age old working. Thank you again!!!
I’m thrilled that this has helped you! Happy nalbinding!
Thank you so much for this series. I've been trying to learn it to make things for re-enactment and I've watched loads of videos and been taught in person and couldn't pick it up. I watched these and in a couple of days I've made a pair of wrist warmers and I'm starting on a hat!
Fantastic!! I’m so glad my videos worked for you!
Your tutorial is so helpful. Thank you!!!!
Great! I’m glad it’s helped you!
I love learning new skills, and this ancient one is brand new to me. Never even heard the term before! So being an avid crochet hooker, I have oodles of yarn to try with. Thank you so much for your very clear instructions.
Great! I hope you have lots of fun experimenting with this ancient craft and I’m glad you found the instructions clear.
@@bonsaiwoman3231 It is taking a lot of practice. I keep getting a mess or dropped loops, and it is very hard to undo to fix problems. Slowly but surely I am getting the hang of it. I only just realized in the last test swatch, that i need to drop the back loop and hold onto the needle as soon as i twist it and go under the front loop and working thread. I kept having trouble with the new loop not going around my thumb right.. that fixed the problem. I am really enjoying learning this. Thanks again!
And here i thought a person had to have 100% wool. Nice to know 50/50 works too. Another interesting point i read about is that nalbinding used the leftover yarn from weaving. Theres so much waste yarn and its such a shame to throw it away. So im spreading the word in the weaving community. Your instructions are clear and concise so i will recommend your site.
@@marlenecheladyn6450 As long as there is enough wool in the yarn to get the ends to felt together, you can use this spit splice method for joining. You can even nalbind with cotton or linen by using a different joining method such as the Russian join, or by overlapping the old and new yarns for a few stitches, then dropping the old and continuing with the new. You will have to go back though and tidy up any loose ends by weaving in and trimming.
And yes - nalbinding is great for using up leftover yarn!
Glad you found the instructions clear.
What a delightful series ... thank you for providing clear, concise instructions.
I come from a textile background but have never heard of nalbinding.
I'm just mastering the Mayan spindles I bought from you & will use the plyed yarn to try this technique out. 😊
Excellent! Nalbinding with your own handspun will create a fabric with lots of character. Glad you found the instructions easy to follow and I hope you’re enjoying your spinning!
I have no words!
I hope it’s been helpful for you.
Thank you for your videos. You do a great job. This video did leave some unanswered questions for someone who knows nothing about doing it, though. Another viewer asked about increasing stitches (how often) to have the wrist warmer flare out and you answered them, two per round. But, what about when you want the rounded top of a hat and double-stitch? Same thing, a couple of double stitches per each round, or more than that... how do you go from the full size round to the completed "dome" where the last stitch(es) is/are in the center, the top of the hat? Thank you.
In order to shape the top of a hat, you need to decrease rapidly. In the mini hat sample I show in this video, I have decreased in every stitch in the final row. eg. I have picked up two stitches from the previous row in every stitch. Then I threaded my yarn through all the loops and pulled them tight. This brings in the final stitches to create the top. I then passed the needle through the centre point to the inside of the hat and wove in the end of the yarn.
When making hats you need to constantly try them on and guage how rapidly you need to decrease in order to create the shape you are after.
To be honest, most of the nalbound hats you see are made from the top down using a different starting method called a round start. A lot of people find it easer to shape from the top down rather than from the bottom up.
this is so helpful- thank you!
You’re welcome! Happy nalbinding!
How would you do a flat piece to make for an example a coaster for your table? How would you turn to go back a forth to form rows? This was a great video! Thank you.
You can create a flat round piece of nalbinding by doing a different type of start called a round start. With this type of start you increase to ensure the work stays flat.
You can do a flat oval piece by turning a chain back on itself, skipping the first few stitches, then connecting and stitching around the chain. For oval pieces be sure to increase at the ends of the chain to keep the work flat.
You can also nalbind flat pieces of fabric by going back and forth. You turn the chain back on itself, skip the first few connecting stitches, then stitch as usual. You will need to turn at each side of your piece. The nalbinding will look different because of the changes in direction, so one row will look like the "front" and the next will look like the "back". Also, the edges tend to look a bit messy and uneven, so it's a good idea to do a row of stitches around the edge when you've finished the piece.
@@bonsaiwoman3231 Could you maybe one day do a video showing the back and forth with the turning chain? Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. :)
@@tammymcdaniel7442 No plans to do more videos at this stage, but I haven’t totally ruled it out.
Question: I am completely new to nålebinding and I am working on a papir of wristwarmers and have got to the point where I want to increase. Do I just make 1 increase stitch pr round pr should every stitch in a round be an increase - stitch?
When I make wrist warmers I nalbind until I’m happy with the length, then I add two rounds where I just make two increase stitches in each round. This will create a slightly wider section at the top of your warmer which will sit comfortably at the base of your palm and stop the warmer from sliding down.
@@bonsaiwoman3231 Thank you, I will do that 😊
I am learning nalebinding currently. I believe I am using the boren stitch, where you have 3 loops on your needle before you twist and pull it through the thumb loop. But my work always looks to loose, like a triple crochet pattern. Is the Oslo stich more like a single crochet where the pattern is tighter?
I don't crochet, so I'm afraid I can't make a comparison for you. What you are describing sounds like the Korgen stitch. It has an F1 connection like the Oslo, but you pick up two loops behind the thumb before twisting and pulling through the thumb loop. The Korgen stitch actually creates a denser fabric because of that extra loop, so the stitching generally looks tighter than the Oslo stitch. You may want to try using a thicker yarn, particularly if you have a large thumb! The thickness of the yarn makes a huge difference to the appearance of the stitches and the "tightness" of the fabric. You may also want to investigate tensioning your stitches on your needle instead of your thumb for smaller stitches.
Great video, but I'm guessing you join the last stitch to the first one kind of on the top of the stitch???
(There's no join then chain up I mean.)
You're working in a spiral so your beginning and end never actually "meet", they just overlap. That's the little step that you can see when you finish your work. Once you have made your garment as long as you want, and your spiral has returned to the start (so your beginning and end line up with one another), then you can take your work off your thumb and neaten the end as per the next video. I hope this answers your question Tammy.
@@bonsaiwoman3231 yes thank you 😊
Thank you!
You’re welcome! I hope you found it helpful.
I'ma make a hat for my partner, who doesn't wear hats lmao
Maybe this will be the hat that changes your partner’s mind!
It's a shame that your thumb goes out of shot every time you are completing a stitch, and I cannot see what you are doing.
I see what you mean - my hand does move out of shot. The focus of this video though is the connection because that’s where you increase or decrease. The rest of the stitch is exactly the same as the Oslo stitch in the previous videos.
@@bonsaiwoman3231
Thanks, I hadn't seen that one yet, so I'll look it up!