At 2:59 while explaining the operation that the bimetal spring warming from the electricity pulls down on the choke assembly you finish with "that's what gives you the choke". I know what you meant but it could be interpreted as the warming of the spring 'giving you the choke' and not in the context of the entire operation. If anyone misunderstood, the choke is 'on' when the spring is cold and the warming of the spring disengages the choke. He shows this a bit later in the video. Also, if you are new to electric chokes, the initial starting procedure is typically: 1. Turn the ignition to the 'ON" or "RUN" position. 2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and return. 3. Crank the engine. This is make sure the choke is engaged and provides a bit of fuel for the initial start.
Yes good catch. I hope that didn’t confuse people. As you mentioned what I meant and I think most people understand was that the choke is applied from the start. The warming of the bimetallic spring reduces the choke effect and opens the choke horn as time elapses. Thank you for throwing in the extra clarification and thanks for watching.
I just got done messing with my choke on my car. I got it kinda close after a lot of messing with it but this video would have been a huge help if I saw it before adjusting mine.
I'm going to have to watch this again. I guess i'm dumb, because i fail to see how the electric choke works. Is it actually opening the butterflies? I tried slapping a 4160 on my car right out of the box. I adjust the idle mixture per some videos, 1.5 turns out and the thing wouldn't start. Seemed like it wasn't getting any air. Choke plate was completely closed so propping it open got it started, but it would almost die at idle and eventually started smoking. I loosened the choke screws and turned it to the right until it started to open, but that caused it to idle over 1500rpms and wouldn't idle down even with the curb idle screw all the way out.
So the way the choke works is that it limits air intake when it’s cold to make up for the lack of atomization and the density of the cold air. Like temporary artificial richening of the mixture. It takes some playing with to get right and you kinda only get one chance a day because you can only tune it the engine is cold. You’re not dumb, everything automotive related is a learning experience. As far as the super high idle and hard start, maybe take a look for vacuum leaks. Also check that it’s not still hung up on the high idle cam itself. You can back the screw all the way out and it won’t come down if it’s jammed on the cam. But hitting the throttle should pull it off the cam. Good luck brother, stick with it you’ll get it.
I have a 302 v8 with a Holley street warrior. When starting, the car idles roughly at ~600rpm and then after a couple minutes runs smoothly at about 700-800rpm. Any recommendations on what to adjust?
I would say the choke adjustment is the culprit take a look at that. May be too far closed to start. Also the fast idle speed needs to be higher that 600 when warming up as well. If you adjust those two I bet it runs like a top. Keep at it, you will get it squared away I’m sure of is
@americannostalgiagarage my first old car, and my first carbureted engine. I am trying my best but don't have the knowledge of people teaching me when I was young. Thanks for the input!
At 2:59 while explaining the operation that the bimetal spring warming from the electricity pulls down on the choke assembly you finish with "that's what gives you the choke". I know what you meant but it could be interpreted as the warming of the spring 'giving you the choke' and not in the context of the entire operation. If anyone misunderstood, the choke is 'on' when the spring is cold and the warming of the spring disengages the choke. He shows this a bit later in the video.
Also, if you are new to electric chokes, the initial starting procedure is typically: 1. Turn the ignition to the 'ON" or "RUN" position. 2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and return. 3. Crank the engine. This is make sure the choke is engaged and provides a bit of fuel for the initial start.
Yes good catch. I hope that didn’t confuse people. As you mentioned what I meant and I think most people understand was that the choke is applied from the start. The warming of the bimetallic spring reduces the choke effect and opens the choke horn as time elapses. Thank you for throwing in the extra clarification and thanks for watching.
Well explained. Particularly appreciate the humility. Very helpful. Thank-You.
Thank you very much for this comment. And thanks for watching.
I just got done messing with my choke on my car. I got it kinda close after a lot of messing with it but this video would have been a huge help if I saw it before adjusting mine.
That’s great. Glad to hear you got it dialed in. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Hell yeah Thanks 🙏
Thank YOU. Lol
Good info brother mine 2 barrel carb on 302 1970 mustang thanks for the info
Thank you for watching.
Nice job. Super informative!
Thank you. Hopefully it helps someone out.
I'm going to have to watch this again. I guess i'm dumb, because i fail to see how the electric choke works. Is it actually opening the butterflies? I tried slapping a 4160 on my car right out of the box. I adjust the idle mixture per some videos, 1.5 turns out and the thing wouldn't start. Seemed like it wasn't getting any air. Choke plate was completely closed so propping it open got it started, but it would almost die at idle and eventually started smoking. I loosened the choke screws and turned it to the right until it started to open, but that caused it to idle over 1500rpms and wouldn't idle down even with the curb idle screw all the way out.
So the way the choke works is that it limits air intake when it’s cold to make up for the lack of atomization and the density of the cold air. Like temporary artificial richening of the mixture. It takes some playing with to get right and you kinda only get one chance a day because you can only tune it the engine is cold. You’re not dumb, everything automotive related is a learning experience. As far as the super high idle and hard start, maybe take a look for vacuum leaks. Also check that it’s not still hung up on the high idle cam itself. You can back the screw all the way out and it won’t come down if it’s jammed on the cam. But hitting the throttle should pull it off the cam. Good luck brother, stick with it you’ll get it.
I have a 302 v8 with a Holley street warrior. When starting, the car idles roughly at ~600rpm and then after a couple minutes runs smoothly at about 700-800rpm. Any recommendations on what to adjust?
I would say the choke adjustment is the culprit take a look at that. May be too far closed to start. Also the fast idle speed needs to be higher that 600 when warming up as well. If you adjust those two I bet it runs like a top. Keep at it, you will get it squared away I’m sure of is
@americannostalgiagarage my first old car, and my first carbureted engine. I am trying my best but don't have the knowledge of people teaching me when I was young. Thanks for the input!
@ everyone starts somewhere, don’t get discouraged. Stick with it, you will get it figured out and youll learn something along the way.
perfectly explained this for me
now i understand i think lol
@@michaelsohare2005 thanks Mike, glad it helped. Thanks for watching.