Pro Circuit WORKS Pipe VS Pro Circuit PLATINUM 2 Pipe - Two Stroke Pipe Comparison
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- In this video I conduct an on track two stroke pipe comparison between the Pro Circuit Works Pipe VS the Pro Circuit Platinum 2 Pipe. This is an in depth ride review of how the power felt for both of the pipes on the track on how they compare against each other. If you are in the market for one of these pipes and are debating on which one to get, THIS IS THE VIDEO TO WATCH!!
Pro Circuit can most of the time be out of stock of their two stroke pipes, but don't forget to hit up AMAZON as it could potentially be up for sale there! Or Ebay, links are below!
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I bought my 07 kx 250 brand new and have had a platinum 2 on since day one and could not agree more with your description on its performance. Love the platinum 2.
Right on!! Glad to know that you feel the same that I was feeling. I love the Platinum 2 pipe now 🙌🏼
@@GregHitchko cheers bro love your videos keep up the awesome content 👌
I run a platinum 2 on my 05 with a shorty 304. I ride Hangtown every Friday and its the perfect combo
Right on! I’ve got the Ti-2 back there and I have to agree, its a 🔥 combo
Try this for your 2-stroke cornering. Yes, you use the clutch, and you will gain a lot of speed.
1) While braking for the corner with both brakes, do not use the clutch while down shifting. That not only gives you a bit more braking power at the rear wheel, but you can hear the RPM you drop into for each gear, (important for corner exit gear selection).
2) Enter the corner with as much speed as you can, and 1 gear "higher" than you normally would, (should probably be 3rd gear for most of these corners), as you stop braking to set up for the corner.
3) Pull in the clutch, (in a gear you think is too high), as you get on the gas, (how hard depends on how slippery the ground is), and feed the power out with the clutch. The trick is to slip the clutch enough to get up to speed so the power does not fall off. If you have to use the clutch too much, you lose time/speed coming out of the corner.
4) If you fall off the power, it will force you to enter the corner with more speed, so it is great practice for corner speed.
5) If you still fall off the power, and can't enter the corner any faster, you can shift down once more before you enter the corner, but it may be better to gear down a bit if there are several corners like that.
The big advantage of that technique for 2-strokes, (Which Kent Howerton invented on his slower Huskies, and was called "clutching it".), is you are forced to enter the corner as fast as you can so you don't bog in a higher gear, and having to shift one time less when exiting the corner and down the next straight. So you leave the corner going 2mph faster (for example), and that means you go down the next straight 2mph faster also.
You practice that at that on that track, and I bet you lose 5 seconds a lap in a weekend. Rotate your bars back down to the 80's also, back when we knew how to ride and set up a bike. Everybody is racing with a freestyle set up, and amateur corner speed sucks today, wide spread.
Doug in Michigan
Agree, switched to the Platnum 2 from the standard platnum & got same results as you did on my yz250. The tractability & control won me over. Luv the P2.
Hells yeah! I really do enjoy the power shift! Thanks for the input my dude 👍🏼
Heck yea. I have to interest in trying to keep up with 4-strokes on freeway MX tracks of today, and I just ordered the last Platinum 2 pipe PC had yesterday.
Yamaha also lowered the compression around 2011 (not sure of the year), so you can pick up that older (stock) higher compression head, or machine off .0085" from the gasket surface of the later stock head (mine is a 2019 with the lower compression), to make it the same head as what Yamaha used to built it with, (that this pipe was made for actually.). I am sure a set of V-force reeds, (and remove the spacer between the stock reed valve and the cylinder), will help the power even more,---of course all properly jetted.
I have "NO" interest
I love the look of the works pipe
Same man, it's so hard to beat, especially when new
awesome video,i buy a platinum 2 but is in backorder all pro circuit pipes are sold out.now i ride stock pipe with type 296 silencer on rm 250,works great smoother power with not so agressiv hit
Right on! Yeah that is the tough part about getting pro circuit pipes! What year is your RM?
@@GregHitchko yes same with fmf gnarly pipe,problems by corona.in future steel are 50%more expensiv. 2008 year is my rm 250 came from austria in europe. hitchko you are a legend.
@@vwgtdturbo Haha thanks man! Ohh yes that's right, you have an 08. Is that where you are located, Europe?
@@GregHitchko Yes man ,austria is the country where ktm bikes are born.
A really great comparison, job well done. I just subscribed. Recently I picked up a used PC P2 and super stoked about the lug-ability in the low end. That should save the clutch work and fatigue with my 03 RM250. I'm going to see if you have videos with the silencer aspect of it. Besides shorty vs factory (low vs high power) and carbon I'm not sure there's much performance difference on that end of it? Let me know your thoughts.
I just picked a 03 a week ago and it needs a lot of work. But I will get it there. It had a stock pipe with a fmf powercore 2. It seems like it is all mid to top, so i need to do some fiddling to get it right. But no pro circuit pipes in stock.
Call PC and get your name on the demand list. once they have enough pipes, they will go ahead and make a run of them!
That would be awesome, I always ran a works on my CR years ago. Thanks man!
Been on Pro Circuit's waiting list for over a half a year now for my 2001 KX 250. I'm starting to wonder if they will ever make them again. So frustrating. Great comparison by the way Greg.
For the works or platinum pipe?! Dude I may just call and get on their waiting list for that year KX as well for you lol.
@@GregHitchko LOL.. Now that's being loyal to a fan of your channel. I'm looking for the Works pipe but they let me put my name on the list for both. 👍
I have an 02 and want the works. I’ve emailed and waiting to hear back. Have you heard anything?
Almost all of their pipes now are "Out of stock", and I just got the last Platinum 2 for the YZ250, (2-13-23). If he is having trouble with production, I left Mitch a message about a guy I know who can stamp out all his pipes for him in Michigan, (Envision Engineering, Lowell Michigan). He makes all the Indian motorcycle tanks and fenders now because they figured out a faster way to stamp/weld them.
Mitch blew it, treated me and Scott at Envision engineering like we are dopes, and he is still out of stock. Mitch may be a great engine builder,--but he sure does not know how to work with people when they are trying to help him. Scott told me he still would stamp and weld his pipes, (more efficiently than anybody else could), but Mitch would basically have to beg him for it.
shifting to first!?
Nice KX250, (before the seats got too tall).
But I can't believe you would ever have to drop down to 1st gear on that fast/smooth track with any 2-stroke, if you did not ride it like a 4-stroke or the family car.
You are doing starts from a dead stop in 2nd gear. But at least you can tell the Platinum 2 makes more bottom end power. That is all I need to know for my YZ250.
I have both pipes but I have 0 idea which one to use I like both I also have a r-304 stainless shorty
What type of riding do you mainly do??
@@GregHitchko I go racing Mx tracks
@@GregHitchko I’ve tested both but still can’t decide today.
Nice video 👌🏽
Thanks my man!!
Platinum pipe and 304 silencer on my 250.
Right on Wayne, how do you like it?!
@@GregHitchko it’s the only pipe and silencer I use on 250s
I have a WORKS on my kx85
That's rad!
@@GregHitchko its on my oage 2014 little digger for a 2 stroke
The works pipe gives a nice race look and sound. 🔥
What ever is more important to you. Looks or function? Arts and crafts, or function? I like both actually. But function has to come first or it is just a worthless piece of art. :)
@@EarthSurferUSA Ricky and Bubba won alot of titles using the works pipe. I reckon it will function as well. :)
@@TORKiT Yes, I am sure the Works pipe is better for the fast 4-stroke MX tracks today,--but it still won't keep up to the 4-strokes of today. If I were playing on MX tracks, the Works pipe would be my choice that PC offers.
@@TORKiTnobody was running a platinum pipe back in the day, just accept that the P2 is a better option
Hey!
Where did you get that hat?
:)
Dino that thang
That would be interesting!
Wanna try an experiment? One that I think you will like for cornering? I know, everybody does it, but I swear to god the industry adopted your high handlebar set up, (rotated forward), as a new generation got into the sport,---from freestyle. It was freestyle taking off, and they rotated their bars forward for trick clearance,---and now everybody does it.
That is scary, because we are not thinking. I want you to rotate your bars down 80's style, (the age of reason in MX), (and adjust your levers accordingly), and ride it for 3 rides. I bet you like it better for cornering, (especially with out a berm), as it is easier to keep your elbows high for up and down forces on the bar. I tried it the new way when I came back to riding (2019 YZ250 2-stroke), and I never got a good feel in the corners. The ends of the grips should be pointing down, and I went a bit further. Man, it feels great. For my YZ, which I had set like your bars here (and I tried it for 2 seasons. Sucked like a Hoover the entire time, and I thought it was me.), The stock Pro Taper bars have the numbers ")", "1", and "2" (on the bar under the pad), with "0" in the middle, and 1&2 showing rotation from the middle. The "O" (set like yours), was right in the middle of the clamp bolts, (no mark on mine). I rotated it back until "2" was in the same position. You will find new lines in the corners. Wanna try that experiment?
Doug in Michigan,--the guy on the inside line off camber. See you at the exit. :)
I also lowered my new YZ insane tall bike with .75" on the suspension and 1" off the seat. Now it is a good height like yours. :) My last bike was the 97 KX250. I got fast on that bike in some great sand whooped out single track in Michigan. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuun.
On that track, I bet you lose over 2 seconds a lap, after 3 riding days.
Low bottom end power that revs high is not "That 2-stroke feeling". 80cc, yes, maybe, but even the KX125 and YZ125 have dominated starting lines with amazingly mid range engines (for a 125), and 250's almost all had more bottom and lower mid then the lone YZ trying to keep up with freeway 4-strokes. Then you had the 500cc 2-strokes, that had more power than a mere mortal can make the most of,--with no lack usually anywhere in the rpm range.
So waht I am saying is,---you can make a 2-stroke the way you want, (just like a 4-stroke, but harder to do)---from trials to road racing.
If you ever get a chance to ride a good CR or KX500, (late 80's). Be careful. :)
Does that Lectron carb do all the jetting for you when you change engine parts/porting?
I know I will have to re-jet my YZ carb, (rich stock now too) before I can make a good assessment of the different mods.
Has anyone compared the platinum 2 pipe to the fmf knarly pipe witch feels better for trail single track riding
I personally haven't but that is a great question. i will see if I can snag one of those in the future for a test!
Yes. I have both. Before or after jetting crisply, the FMF Gnarley makes more lower RPM power than the PC. I even suspected it just by looking at the pipes, as the Gnarley reverse cone ends at the mount by the kick start, and the PC location is almost the same location as a stock pipe. A longer tuned pipe matches lower piston speeds for more power there. I am on a 2019 YZ250 and I do build 2-stroke engines for a living. I have not done the rest of of the mods yet, but this is what I will do, and I expect great gains for lower rpm, and probably lose about 500 top RPM compared to stock.
1) FMF Gnarly pipe.
2) lowered cylinder by .015" to lower the ex. port duration, matching the lower RPM pipe, tighten the squish and raises compression, Use at least 93 octane. I think it was
2011 when Yamaha put a low compression head on the bike. The difference is .0085" on the gasket surface. If I don't lower the cylinder, I would use the older head
3) V-force reeds.
4) Maybe a power valve mod, to try to get some top rpm back. I have to examine that further before I cut.
5) crisp jetting.
PS, if we do not jet the bike very well when changing engine performance parts, the comparison test could be significantly flawed.
I have the works
How do you like it??
@@GregHitchko idk my bike has endless top end its also ported i never rode it stock its a 98 250
I'll take either for a '88 CR500...
That would be badass!
Ciao puoi mettere i sottotitoli in italiano?
Ahh man, unfortunately I don’t understand that!
How about the buds pipe in Cali ?
Unfortunately I don't have an experience with those pipes! Or I would
Will those pipes work on a 125 2 stroke or just 250
These pipes are 250 specific. Pro Circuit does make a Works and Platinum pipe for the 125 but not a Platinum 2
What the best pipe for jumping ramps?
I would go with the works pipe for that mid range hit it has 👍🏼
@@GregHitchko But will the platinum be okay also you think?
@@Dk10244 Yessir, but not the Platinum 2
@@GregHitchko what about the first generation of platinum? Is it good? I go more for the Chrome look
@@Dk10244 the platinum pipe is modeled after the works pipe so they will both have the same power delivery!
Aftermarket pipes are usually snake oil unless you're modifying the engine or the stock one is absolute trash.
The way an expansion chamber pipe works is by creating a sort of back pressure which forces some fuel and air back into the motor effectively supercharging it.
There is always a certain RPM where this back pressure effect is the strongest depending on the dimensions of the expansion chamber.
The engine itself has a natural powerband. Your pipe should be designed to compliment the engine rather than trying to artificially change its natural strengths.
For example, putting a pipe that comes on strongest at 5,000 RPM on a motor that naturally hits strongest between 7,000 and 10,000 is only giving you a net loss in power even if it pulls a little better down lower.
For sound or cosmetic reasons, choose whatever you prefer. But for PC to say more power at all RPM is BS.
Thank you for the great insight on expansion chambers Harry! This is awesome. Perhaps a rider doesn't like the power delivery of the stock pipe, hence the reason for an after market one. I can completely see where you are coming from that the stock pipe is made for the engine it's matched with, but if stock is preferred (for any application) why have aftermarket parts companies had such great success?
@@GregHitchko
Aftermarket pipes tend to perform best at somewhere close to the engines natural peak but shift that peak higher or lower.
Some help the engine pick up at a bit lower RPM and have a smoother, longer powerband with less sharp of a peak.
Other pipes hit right in the peak of the engines natural power and give a significant gain in performance over a short span of the RPM range.
For 85s or 125s that's ideal, for 250s and especially 500s it's not so practical.
Changing pipes is a matter of preference I suppose, but let's not pretend that Honda, Yamaha or any other manufacturer didn't have it fairly well figured out when they've built the entire engine and bike itself from the ground up.
The pipe is probably one of the simpler parts to get right.
@@harrypeterson9287 I can for a fact feel a difference in a Gnarly pipe vs a fatty pipe on a cr500r. I agree it doesn't actually increase the power, but it gives you the power your looking for at that range, like the Gnarly adds a ton of grunt and torque down low. A lot of stock exhaust chambers from all the manufacturers are really not bad at all, in fact some of them are the best option. the stock oem silencer are trash though, they are too restricted, I always go to pro circuit 304 for the silencer. I like Gnarly pipe with 304 that's a bad ass combo for kx and cr500. on my cr500af I had a pro circuit platinum pipe and it increased the over rev and the bike would keep pulling forever compared with the fatty or Gnarly from fmf.
And stock pipes often look trash.
"Aftermarket pipes are usually snake oil unless you're modifying the engine or the stock one is absolute trash."
That is not totally true, just semi valid. It is true that the engine porting has a rpm curve target, and the pipe rpm target should be made to match that porting, (a slightly higher rpm tuned pipe than the porting can drag more rpm out of the engine). But changing the pipe is still the #1 bolt on part you can add to shift the power in the usable RPM curve. Always re-jet the carb when changing the engine performance parts/porting for the best results.
It is not the pressure that supercharges the engine. A small stinger will add pressure to hold in the leaking fresh fuel/air mixture at low RPM's, (but raises engine temps at high rpm's), but it the sound wave bouncing off the reverse cone, back to the cylinder (at the pipes tuned RPM target), that jams the leaking fresh fuel/air back into the cylinder, (up to 7psi has been measured). The speed of the sound wave is almost constant, but does travel a bit faster when the pipe is hot, through hotter gasses. That is why when you wrap a pipe with some kind insulation (not the header section near the cylinder), you may find a bit more top rpm.
"But for PC to say more power at all RPM is BS." I totally agree. It is always "give and take" But jetting the carb well from the stock rich condition can make it feel that way if comparing to stock jetting.
Run open header...no pipe
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