Hey Dave. Just wanted to somehow reach out to you. I’m a maintenance supervisor for an apartment complex. I feel I owe you a debt of gratitude. I’ve been watching your videos for sometime now and thought you should know I’ve learned a ton of information. Because of you I’m able to replace an entire AC system inside and out. As Well as serving and repairing for this property along with others within this same company. I really just wanted to thank you and this is the only way I know how. You’re the best. Thank you again!
Good learning video. For a diy, you can use the harbor freight 2 stage pump, a 1/2" navac or other vacuum hose, and you do need two valve core removal fittings and of course the micron gauge. You're all in for tools for a fast vacuum down for under $500 and if you change the vacuum oil regularly, would have a system that can last years. Large diameter hose is the key for a fast evacuation.
Just shared your page with my father. I’ve watched your channel for some time and have a great appreciation for how your trade skills are turned around to help skilled diy’ers and also skilled tradesmen learn a few skills by bumping this and give a extra 1/8” to seat or mark it correctly in order for a great line up of layout. As for the rest of you old timer diy’ers listen to this kid. He’s going places and he’s going to help you service your furnace or AC or heat pump. Take care kid. Nice work.
The tool is nice and it’s good to see all the options on how to do HVAC work. For a person just starting, I am good doing my two hose vacuum setup. You should use another valve core tool to isolate the micron gauge from the system.
I was on a Mitsubishi Condensing unit that went to a BC Box downstairs and then to multiple evaporators. I recovered the refrigerant from the low side, then found out there was equal pressure on the high, so I had to recover that also. When the roofers were done and we set the Cond. Unit back in place, I had to pull a vacuum on both sides as well. I used my recovery machine to pump the refrigerant back in it, and pumping it in the low side had no effect on the high so I had to open the gauge manifold to pump the refrigerant back in equally. sometimes you cant use only one side.
Did I miss you purging the air pocket between the ball valve and the Schrader valve before you pushed it in? I'd imagine once you open the suction valve you have to crack the nut of the schraeder adapter to let the air bubble out? Or am I wrong about thinking that?
I watched the video closely and get what you mean. That will let in some air but it’s a very small amount and the drier will catch any of that moisture. It’s not best practice but it’s not going to cause any problems.
As a diyer, I’d recommend Staybrite 8 for sure. No nitrogen flow needed, way less heat produced so less threat of damaging any rubber items, and you can use regular map gas 👍🏼
This is excellent! I assume this is a new installation with a dry line set and evaporator? And you’re only pulling down the line set and evaporator? I wonder how that pump would do pulling down condenser as well with moisture? I got tested yesterday, using my Milwaukee battery vacuum pump (wish I would have bought the Navac though). I had to pull down a condenser, line set and evaporator on a service call leak check and repair (leak on evaporator suction side) with enough moisture in the system to make you very impatient on pulling down a vacuum. (I switched to my 115 volt field piece vacuum pump for this after a short while, changed the oil one during the process and triple evacuated, breaking with nitrogen twice). All I can say is, wow there’s a difference on pulling vacuums, depending on the size, situation, moisture, etc. of the system. And one size don’t fit all 🤦🏻♂️ But I’m the knucklehead head that would of watched this awesome video quickly, and got even more frustrated, because your video shows a deep vacuum in minutes, when I’m standing around and it’s now been 4 hrs! Great video though man! (I know now that your situation is a standard evacuation with a clean system, tight, and no condenser and no triple evacuation needed as it’s not a LC&R job, I assume a new installation). I will buy that pump for those situations for sure, I already have the true blue hose and it’s excellent! Every job is different and requires different methods or setup though to achieve a clean, tight and dry system.
I have an 8 cfm navac can I still use it on residential units? I know it might freeze moisture but as far as damage goes could it mess anything up? Given I don’t try to pull the deepest vacuum known to man.
With a fast pump like that keep it elevated above the compressor to prevent oil getting sucked out and use short hoses. I’d put a valve core remover on both valves to take out the Schrader valves. Then hook up hoses to both sides of the system to your pump for even faster evacuation. The gauge won’t be accurate while it’s running but when you’re close (you can hear the pump) you can shut off the ball valve near the gauge while it’s running and it will measure the vacuum of the entire system. The textbook warning for freezing moisture is not possible in the real world. It will melt in copper pipes. You’re not servicing an AC system in freezing weather… get your job done fast and accurately. You’ll be rewarded for it.
How would you go about adding refrigerant if needed on a brand new install with this setup? I was always taught to add the refrigerant through both vapor and liquid sides of the lineset before opening up the king valves, thanks
Nice setup man. I bought the Milwaukee 18 volt pump because I have plenty of the brand already. I definitely say stick with the true blue setup. I bought two of the Navac black vacuum hose setups. They’re ok, but the ends pop off and the gaskets I’ve had trouble with. I found I personally don’t like anything hose or valve related with Navac. I absolutely like all there electronic devices. I can’t wait to buy the bender. I probably should’ve bought that pump, but oh well. They have awesome equipment. The true blue hose set up is the only way to go! So simple. Do you feel it will do well if you’re pulling down condenser as well? Or will you add two hoses then?
So I mean as a homeowner planning my install, I wouldn't need the valve core removal tool, but it'll take significantly longer to pull vacuum right? My hoses with my gauges will allow me to pull vacuum, without messing with the valve cores, Right? I mean it looks like a great tool and all, but I'm talking about saving $80 for a little extra time on my end. Also on the fence wither I really need a micrometer to measure vacuum, no doubt it's a great too, at $170 is it a must have?? Can I get away with checking vacuum on my gauges? Ugh I'm going to bite the bullet and get a couple valve core removers I found so $20 ish ones, and a $180 vacuum gauge,,,,
@@Honestandtruth007 best pump ive ever used to be honest. Ive had tons and tons and tons of sman3's and 4's that end up taking a crap. No i use testo gauges and straight vacuum pump with a micron meter. Less joints the betters
If the gods are with you you can get away with it. I vacuum for an hour using an analog vacuum gauge from the old days yet expect to get bit some day for skimping on the good tools.
Yes yes and yes, Seems like you have a leak Or You have a micron gauge that the depressors not pushing all the way down on the valve cores..or you have too many restrictions (valve cores) so you need to use valve core remover tools that help you take out valve cores and put them back in after refrigrant release
That’s the purpose of the decay test. If it doesn’t rise over 500 within 10 mins, you are good to go. No need to pump for 2 hours or whatever if it isn’t needed! The micron gauge and decay test doesn’t lie! Cheers
Is this the yellow jacket core removal tool? I do the same thing pulling from suction and keeping gauge on liquid with the only difference i have a ball valve with the micron gauge. Have the same micron gauge, i just don't want to take the risk to pressurize it with freon and ruin it. They say it s ok for positive pressure but who knows Good job man, i like your videos1
since its a suction line, using a ball valve is not a good idea. it will suck in air when you try to insert shredder valve through it. In the video, when The DIY HVAC Guy removed his core removal tool, we did not hear any pressure leaks because it was the suction line.
Amazing the way you explain everything! I wish you’d let me come along to work with you for at least a week i know i can learn so much from you. Unfortunately you’re a bit far from me but I’d give it a shot to learn about hvac
Everything gets vacuumed from service valve to service valve. Condenser obviously not because there's refrigerant in there and service valves are closed.
Do those big blue hoses really make that much a difference? You still have all those necked down adaptors, and service valves . The hoses are a lot better quality, and are much better at holding vacuum then regular gauge hoses, but I don’t buy that the hoses provide that much less restriction in close coupled situations. It is great that you placed your micron gauge in the proper place, furthest away from the vacuum pump. Nice vacuum pump.
Vacuum pumps work by capturing particles in the system that are spreading out to a lower pressure area. What the big hose is doing is creating a large space of higher vacuum where those particles are more likely to enter and flow towards the pump. That’s why it’s faster than a thin 1/4 hose.
Hey. I liked the video! I have a couple questions though because I like to know how things works and I also want to be sure that I understand. The vacuum is done on the loop going to the air exchanger? Is the micron test just to see if there's a leak? If the number goes up why it isn't bad of under a certain time? Where's the refrigerant? In the unit already and it just fills in the lines when the Schrader valve is installed? And what does the Schrader valve does anyway? Thanks!
the compressor is in the outside unit so if you put the vacuum on the (return to the compressor line/ low pressure side / big tube) and put the micron gauge on the (line out of the compressor/ high pressure side / small tube) then it is sucking all the way into the house.. through the evaporator above your furnace.. all the way back out to that gauge on the high side. It tests the whole loop that the refrigerant travels but what he was saying is you separate the compressor and the micron gauge so the compressor isn't sucking right on that gauge.. it has to travel through all the lines to get to the gauge ... ....... Why is there a time factor? yeah you would think that once you suck it down to 150 microns that it would just stay there indefinitely.. but microns are a very tiny measurement.. and idk maybe at that level of sucking heh it will suck past the seals in the compressor or past a schrader valve............. the schrader valve is exactly like the valve on your bicycle or car tire.. its spring loaded and keeps the refrigerant in the system but allows you to connect hoses to it... just like on a bicycle tire.. without the valve you would be trying to cut a hole in your bicycle tire to fill it with air and then patch it really quickly before it all leaked out.. hope that helps a bit
Yes, what he said was excellent. To simplify a bit, the system is a circle essentially. So the compressor takes the refrigerant and pushes it through the coils at the condenser and pushes it through the small copper line into the coil that sits above your furnace or air handler. The compressor is simultaneously sucking refrigerant through the large copper tube from that same indoor coil, back to the compressor, and repeats this cycle as long as the thermostat is calling for cooling. The fan at the condensing unit is pulling the heat out of those coils, that’s what you feel warm air blowing out the condenser in the summer. The schrader valves are used to keep the refrigerant contained in the unit, but allows you to check the pressures with your gauges. But when a system is brand new, the refrigerant is contained to the condensing unit, so after you have the lineset fitted and brazed in, it’s essential to pull all moisture and air out of the lines before introducing the refrigerant. So that’s when the vacuum pump comes in. It’s just pulling moisture and air out, and then when you are done and let the refrigerant in, it goes immediately from a vacuum to positive pressure. The vacuum procedure can be a leak test in itself. The micron level tells you how “tight” a system is. So if it goes up quickly after being isolated, you can assume you have a leak. 500 is considered good so if you isolated and it rose to like 1500 microns you’d need to do another Leak check. Hopefully this is helpful! If you want more clerification, check out our Patreon membership at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy where we will answer any hvac question you may have! I think I will start a diy beginners course soon on our website, so I’ll make sure and let everyone know about that. Cheers
Thanks for the explanation! I always thought for some reasons that the refrigerant was manually added to the system after the installation. It's a lot easier if it's already in the condensing unit.
@Marc B Just be aware, if trying a DIY to read the manual. Many units will contain enough to fill your system. However, not all do and may need to add / have someone add more to meet cooling requirements for your home. Also, if replacing an old unit and has the "old" refrigerant, you'll either need to "clean" the lines or replacement, as the old stuff and new doesn't mix well and can/will damage your system over time. Looking at the site Dave mentions has their flush kit >$100, a new copper coil CAN be found for ~$190 (for 30'), but is also much safer if you plan to stay in the home a long time....or just want to do it right :)
@@mabelisle the refrigerant that comes factory charged in the condensing unit is typically good for around 15ft of lineset (copper lines). Some places have furnace coil all the way up in the attic or across the house in the basement where you might have a 40ft run of lineset. Therefore, you would need to add refrigerant.
Sounds more like a headache specially if its zoned and upstairs air handler.looks like youll have stop half and check and open valves since its so dang on fast
This video was about a vacuum pull in a few short minutes. I am unsure about what he had for lunch that day but am certain he released the lines to finish the install.
Of course. Nitrogen is hygroscopic and anything to remove moisture is key! Purge , vacuum and fill by weight then run. After a while do your, pressures,then superheat calcs and should be good.
If it holds from a repair, it's your call to say it's good to go. But most insert nitro after a repair and soap test area to confirm. Then vacuum and confirm. The charge or open system back
Some do, some do not. It seems with most DIY installs, a pressure test is skipped. I find that a nice long vacuum that is not rushed is enough and yet my buddy always pressure tests.
That’s right. BUT only with the micron gauge. A very small leak in a system will not make you lose your vacuum but the micron gauge is VERY specific. If it doesn’t hold at 500 or even close to 500 that’s a really good indicator that you have a leak somewhere 👍🏼
Micron is a measuring unit of the vacuum-ing process. Hence, Micron gauge is the measuring meter. Vacrometer, however, seems like a fancy manufacturer created 'derivative' of VACuum-miCRon Meter = VACRO Meter
Does pulling a vacuum remove whatever air/gas was in the lines? I’m asking because I’m installing my own Goodman AC unit and to pressure test, I was hoping to use my welding tank which is a combo of Argon/CO2. The alternative is buying a nitrogen tank, but was hoping to avoid that since I have the welding tank on hand. I’m not sure if it matters what gas you use to pressure test, but please tell me if I’m wrong. Thanks so much for the videos and inspiring DIY guys like me to do this.
Hey! Thanks for the message. I’ve never heard of anyone doing that but it’s probably fine. As long as it’s a dry gas. If you need some help and advice with your install, check out our Patreon membership over at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy for $25 (cancellable at any time) we will give you one on one assistance with all things hvac. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy Thanks! By the way, I love how you put a DIY spin on your repairs. It irks me when I look up a question online and see a HVAC forum with the same question asked by someone else that I have and the responses from techs are like, “are you licensed, if not, don’t attempt…”. Etc. Thanks again!
I'm a HVAC technician,I believe you can achieve a better vacuum in the system by hocking up a manifold gauge on the high side & low side on the system for the vacuum to pull out not only air but also any moisture and stock liquid and debris in the system and if you must use one hose,I also believe that the liquid side or high side is the best side use.
I WATCH A LOT VIDEOS ABOUT INSTALLING CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONER 👍👍👍👍LET TALK TO THE POINT 😱😱😱😱IF YOU VACUUMED THE SYSTEM CORRECTLY 😱😱😱😱AND IT IS HOLDING 👍👍👍👍YOU DO NOT NEED PRESSURE TEST😱😱😱😱AN I CORRECT ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
Few hundred on a decent pump,almost two hundred on a Micron gauge,couple hundred on a set of gauges so figure an even grand! Honestley,no DIY'er should ever even attemp this,you will have no warranty,you wont know if there is an issue,you wont be able to complete a factory required start up procedure etc! Just take the time to find a reputable company or individual that wont rip you off,and will stand behind his work! They do exhist
Yes if you don’t have the mechanical skills and feel confident or don’t want to spend some dough on tools I definitely recommend finding a company to do this job. 👍🏼
@@diyhvacguyit’s more of a diy if you are in trades and have some of the tools or all of the tools but this isn’t your speciality. As an automotive mechanic I had all the tools I needed originally sans the micron gauge; we don’t use those in automotive. Also, this was a high-end set up; you can get away with a cheaper set up if you’re only going to be doing this kind of work sparingly
@@petersmart1999 I agree but it depends where you live. In FL where we use A/C 350+ days (we turn off our system only for 2 weeks ) there are 1,000s off techs that take short cuts so this info is good and doable for above average DIYers. I have turned away techs that don't bring vacuum pumps and nitrogen even when I verify when contacting. Even then they still do not do the procedures correctly.
Why not just get a 1/2" hose for 90 bucks. My co worker has the true blue set. Waste of money. Kit comes with 10 adapters you dont need. Get the impirul hose 1/2" - 1/4
Fact is..everyone thinks hvac pays well .that looks like hvac tool companies take advantage ..when reality is a walk to home depot harbor frieght or even auto zone thats ment for automotive or anything else is cheaper then getting it from hvac online store or hvac store
If you are using a manifold, it has to travel through some small openings, and has more potential for leaks. Also the hose size makes a huge difference. And if you leave your Schrader valves in, it will take way way longer. This method works fantastic.
Not sure how the 1/8" port opening in the service valve is any different than the 1/8" port in the manifold...it should be noted he is pulling only on the line set which could be as short as 10', and already dry. I'd like to see this test on a unit that already had refrigerant in it or large walk in cooler or freezer. Then I might believe.
Do we ever talk about permits for the diy'er? Warranty's that need to be registered by a licensed contractor? Before you say it in not a contractor but the avg Joe should know all the facts.
All My Favorite HVAC Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/thediyhvacguy?ref=ac_inf_tb_vh
Hey Dave. Just wanted to somehow reach out to you. I’m a maintenance supervisor for an apartment complex. I feel I owe you a debt of gratitude. I’ve been watching your videos for sometime now and thought you should know I’ve learned a ton of information. Because of you I’m able to replace an entire AC system inside and out. As Well as serving and repairing for this property along with others within this same company. I really just wanted to thank you and this is the only way I know how. You’re the best. Thank you again!
Does your employer pay you a wage "bonus" when you are doing HVAC installs? You are saving them money over an outside vendor.
Good learning video. For a diy, you can use the harbor freight 2 stage pump, a 1/2" navac or other vacuum hose, and you do need two valve core removal fittings and of course the micron gauge. You're all in for tools for a fast vacuum down for under $500 and if you change the vacuum oil regularly, would have a system that can last years. Large diameter hose is the key for a fast evacuation.
Just shared your page with my father. I’ve watched your channel for some time and have a great appreciation for how your trade skills are turned around to help skilled diy’ers and also skilled tradesmen learn a few skills by bumping this and give a extra 1/8” to seat or mark it correctly in order for a great line up of layout. As for the rest of you old timer diy’ers listen to this kid. He’s going places and he’s going to help you service your furnace or AC or heat pump. Take care kid. Nice work.
Thanks so much man! This comment means so much to me! Cheers
@@diyhvacguyHow is the NAVAC vacuum pump Hold up as in Quality Comparing to Fieldpiece and RobinAir ❓❓
Thanks for keeping actual HVAC guys in business
You’re welcome 😉
The tool is nice and it’s good to see all the options on how to do HVAC work. For a person just starting, I am good doing my two hose vacuum setup. You should use another valve core tool to isolate the micron gauge from the system.
Yea I may start doing that. But the valve is before the 1/4” fitting so I’d have to have two..
Don’t use that port go off the end then you can valve off the micron gauge.
I was on a Mitsubishi Condensing unit that went to a BC Box downstairs and then to multiple evaporators. I recovered the refrigerant from the low side, then found out there was equal pressure on the high, so I had to recover that also. When the roofers were done and we set the Cond. Unit back in place, I had to pull a vacuum on both sides as well. I used my recovery machine to pump the refrigerant back in it, and pumping it in the low side had no effect on the high so I had to open the gauge manifold to pump the refrigerant back in equally. sometimes you cant use only one side.
that's impressive and a must have "unless you are charging by the hour" LOL
Didn't see you open the high side service port valve in the video but we get the idea.
Great video but could you show us how to break the vacuum with refrigerant on the high side?
very nice thanks! but I didn't see you open liquid live valve?
Did I miss you purging the air pocket between the ball valve and the Schrader valve before you pushed it in? I'd imagine once you open the suction valve you have to crack the nut of the schraeder adapter to let the air bubble out? Or am I wrong about thinking that?
I watched the video closely and get what you mean. That will let in some air but it’s a very small amount and the drier will catch any of that moisture. It’s not best practice but it’s not going to cause any problems.
What did you use for brazing? Stay Bright 8, Sil Fos rings or Brazing rods.
I have used all, but anymore I’m going to start solely using my RLS crimp tool 😎 no brazing, no flame, and no rushing around wasting precious gases!
As a diyer, I’d recommend Staybrite 8 for sure. No nitrogen flow needed, way less heat produced so less threat of damaging any rubber items, and you can use regular map gas 👍🏼
This is excellent! I assume this is a new installation with a dry line set and evaporator? And you’re only pulling down the line set and evaporator? I wonder how that pump would do pulling down condenser as well with moisture? I got tested yesterday, using my Milwaukee battery vacuum pump (wish I would have bought the Navac though). I had to pull down a condenser, line set and evaporator on a service call leak check and repair (leak on evaporator suction side) with enough moisture in the system to make you very impatient on pulling down a vacuum.
(I switched to my 115 volt field piece vacuum pump for this after a short while, changed the oil one during the process and triple evacuated, breaking with nitrogen twice).
All I can say is, wow there’s a difference on pulling vacuums, depending on the size, situation, moisture, etc. of the system. And one size don’t fit all 🤦🏻♂️
But I’m the knucklehead head that would of watched this awesome video quickly, and got even more frustrated, because your video shows a deep vacuum in minutes, when I’m standing around and it’s now been 4 hrs! Great video though man! (I know now that your situation is a standard evacuation with a clean system, tight, and no condenser and no triple evacuation needed as it’s not a LC&R job, I assume a new installation).
I will buy that pump for those situations for sure, I already have the true blue hose and it’s excellent! Every job is different and requires different methods or setup though to achieve a clean, tight and dry system.
Would zip tie the high side not look cleaner?
If you get the makita to milwaukee converter you can use either dewalt or milwaukee batteries. Saves from having to spend a fortune on navac batteries
Is everything tactical now?? 😂 nice job
Yesir! Quality gear for the working man and cool designs! @hvactactical
I have an 8 cfm navac can I still use it on residential units? I know it might freeze moisture but as far as damage goes could it mess anything up? Given I don’t try to pull the deepest vacuum known to man.
With a fast pump like that keep it elevated above the compressor to prevent oil getting sucked out and use short hoses. I’d put a valve core remover on both valves to take out the Schrader valves. Then hook up hoses to both sides of the system to your pump for even faster evacuation. The gauge won’t be accurate while it’s running but when you’re close (you can hear the pump) you can shut off the ball valve near the gauge while it’s running and it will measure the vacuum of the entire system. The textbook warning for freezing moisture is not possible in the real world. It will melt in copper pipes. You’re not servicing an AC system in freezing weather… get your job done fast and accurately. You’ll be rewarded for it.
Definitely use 2 core removal tools. You can save the life of your vaccum gauge. So it stays accurate.
How would you go about adding refrigerant if needed on a brand new install with this setup? I was always taught to add the refrigerant through both vapor and liquid sides of the lineset before opening up the king valves, thanks
Do the pumps collect the old fluid?
generally i've been taught to bump in nitrogen during a deep vac, this way it seems like you dont have to do that just wondering
Unless you have alot of moisture, a nitrogen purge isn’t needed. I’ve only had to do that once or twice
Nice setup man. I bought the Milwaukee 18 volt pump because I have plenty of the brand already. I definitely say stick with the true blue setup. I bought two of the Navac black vacuum hose setups. They’re ok, but the ends pop off and the gaskets I’ve had trouble with. I found I personally don’t like anything hose or valve related with Navac. I absolutely like all there electronic devices. I can’t wait to buy the bender. I probably should’ve bought that pump, but oh well. They have awesome equipment. The true blue hose set up is the only way to go! So simple. Do you feel it will do well if you’re pulling down condenser as well? Or will you add two hoses then?
So I mean as a homeowner planning my install, I wouldn't need the valve core removal tool, but it'll take significantly longer to pull vacuum right? My hoses with my gauges will allow me to pull vacuum, without messing with the valve cores, Right? I mean it looks like a great tool and all, but I'm talking about saving $80 for a little extra time on my end. Also on the fence wither I really need a micrometer to measure vacuum, no doubt it's a great too, at $170 is it a must have?? Can I get away with checking vacuum on my gauges? Ugh I'm going to bite the bullet and get a couple valve core removers I found so $20 ish ones, and a $180 vacuum gauge,,,,
Yea it’s worth having quality stuff for this. You can do it without the core removers but they do a lot better job and quicker
@@diyhvacguyHow is NAVAC Quality Holding up Comparing to Fieldpiece and RobinAir ❓❓
@@Honestandtruth007 best pump ive ever used to be honest. Ive had tons and tons and tons of sman3's and 4's that end up taking a crap. No i use testo gauges and straight vacuum pump with a micron meter. Less joints the betters
If the gods are with you you can get away with it. I vacuum for an hour using an analog vacuum gauge from the old days yet expect to get bit some day for skimping on the good tools.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 I appreciate your insight, I did end up just buying all the tools.
Can we get 500 microns with a 2.5cfm in 20min? Cannot get past 1200microns in 20min. Any suggestions?
Yes yes and yes,
Seems like you have a leak
Or
You have a micron gauge that the depressors not pushing all the way down on the valve cores..or you have too many restrictions (valve cores) so you need to use valve core remover tools that help you take out valve cores and put them back in after refrigrant release
Great Video . How many micron for pass decay test ? Thank you for sharing
As long as it doesn’t rise over 500 microns within the 10 min decay test
I thought the reason for letting the pump run longer was to remove moisture. Ten minutes does not seem long enough to do that.
That’s the purpose of the decay test. If it doesn’t rise over 500 within 10 mins, you are good to go. No need to pump for 2 hours or whatever if it isn’t needed! The micron gauge and decay test doesn’t lie! Cheers
Hey there, i got a question.
HEY DAVE GREAT VIDEOS,ARE YOUR INDOOR COILS TXV ON 1 HOSE SETUP
Does a refrigerant hurts a micron gauge when exposed to it?
very informative, as always.! thank you
Is this the yellow jacket core removal tool? I do the same thing pulling from suction and keeping gauge on liquid with the only difference i have a ball valve with the micron gauge.
Have the same micron gauge, i just don't want to take the risk to pressurize it with freon and ruin it. They say it s ok for positive pressure but who knows
Good job man, i like your videos1
Thanks so much! I will have to grab a ball valve just to be safe! I like that idea.
since its a suction line, using a ball valve is not a good idea. it will suck in air when you try to insert shredder valve through it. In the video, when The DIY HVAC Guy removed his core removal tool, we did not hear any pressure leaks because it was the suction line.
Amazing the way you explain everything! I wish you’d let me come along to work with you for at least a week i know i can learn so much from you. Unfortunately you’re a bit far from me but I’d give it a shot to learn about hvac
Did you open the high side port? 😂
So a complete open new system. You only vacuum from the low side? Your high side is mid seated to let it evacuate it throughy?
Everything gets vacuumed from service valve to service valve. Condenser obviously not because there's refrigerant in there and service valves are closed.
Nice vacuum pump.
So $1000 dollar set up minus the vacrometer, got it ☺️
Do those big blue hoses really make that much a difference? You still have all those necked down adaptors, and service valves . The hoses are a lot better quality, and are much better at holding vacuum then regular gauge hoses, but I don’t buy that the hoses provide that much less restriction in close coupled situations. It is great that you placed your micron gauge in the proper place, furthest away from the vacuum pump. Nice vacuum pump.
That's what I've been saying/asking other guys. We now need to see a demo with the same pump but standard 1/4 inch hoses. I bet the result is trivial.
I agree, there are bottlenecks with that 1/4" ports, but the bigger hose has less friction to airflow compared to a small one.
i use the 3/8 vacuum hose and i get the same result.
Vacuum pumps work by capturing particles in the system that are spreading out to a lower pressure area. What the big hose is doing is creating a large space of higher vacuum where those particles are more likely to enter and flow towards the pump. That’s why it’s faster than a thin 1/4 hose.
I found SPC Vacuum Micrometer is not accurate. It usually shows 200-300 lover than fieldpiece in my experience
how much for the true bluehose？
How do you protect the vacuum cps sensor from refrigerant?
It doesn’t hurt them. Clean em with denatured alcohol every once and a while and you are golden 🤘🏼
@@diyhvacguy got it. Thanks
Hey. I liked the video! I have a couple questions though because I like to know how things works and I also want to be sure that I understand. The vacuum is done on the loop going to the air exchanger? Is the micron test just to see if there's a leak? If the number goes up why it isn't bad of under a certain time? Where's the refrigerant? In the unit already and it just fills in the lines when the Schrader valve is installed? And what does the Schrader valve does anyway? Thanks!
the compressor is in the outside unit so if you put the vacuum on the (return to the compressor line/ low pressure side / big tube) and put the micron gauge on the (line out of the compressor/ high pressure side / small tube) then it is sucking all the way into the house.. through the evaporator above your furnace.. all the way back out to that gauge on the high side. It tests the whole loop that the refrigerant travels but what he was saying is you separate the compressor and the micron gauge so the compressor isn't sucking right on that gauge.. it has to travel through all the lines to get to the gauge ... ....... Why is there a time factor? yeah you would think that once you suck it down to 150 microns that it would just stay there indefinitely.. but microns are a very tiny measurement.. and idk maybe at that level of sucking heh it will suck past the seals in the compressor or past a schrader valve............. the schrader valve is exactly like the valve on your bicycle or car tire.. its spring loaded and keeps the refrigerant in the system but allows you to connect hoses to it... just like on a bicycle tire.. without the valve you would be trying to cut a hole in your bicycle tire to fill it with air and then patch it really quickly before it all leaked out.. hope that helps a bit
Yes, what he said was excellent. To simplify a bit, the system is a circle essentially. So the compressor takes the refrigerant and pushes it through the coils at the condenser and pushes it through the small copper line into the coil that sits above your furnace or air handler. The compressor is simultaneously sucking refrigerant through the large copper tube from that same indoor coil, back to the compressor, and repeats this cycle as long as the thermostat is calling for cooling. The fan at the condensing unit is pulling the heat out of those coils, that’s what you feel warm air blowing out the condenser in the summer. The schrader valves are used to keep the refrigerant contained in the unit, but allows you to check the pressures with your gauges.
But when a system is brand new, the refrigerant is contained to the condensing unit, so after you have the lineset fitted and brazed in, it’s essential to pull all moisture and air out of the lines before introducing the refrigerant. So that’s when the vacuum pump comes in. It’s just pulling moisture and air out, and then when you are done and let the refrigerant in, it goes immediately from a vacuum to positive pressure.
The vacuum procedure can be a leak test in itself. The micron level tells you how “tight” a system is. So if it goes up quickly after being isolated, you can assume you have a leak. 500 is considered good so if you isolated and it rose to like 1500 microns you’d need to do another Leak check. Hopefully this is helpful! If you want more clerification, check out our Patreon membership at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy where we will answer any hvac question you may have! I think I will start a diy beginners course soon on our website, so I’ll make sure and let everyone know about that. Cheers
Thanks for the explanation! I always thought for some reasons that the refrigerant was manually added to the system after the installation. It's a lot easier if it's already in the condensing unit.
@Marc B Just be aware, if trying a DIY to read the manual. Many units will contain enough to fill your system. However, not all do and may need to add / have someone add more to meet cooling requirements for your home. Also, if replacing an old unit and has the "old" refrigerant, you'll either need to "clean" the lines or replacement, as the old stuff and new doesn't mix well and can/will damage your system over time. Looking at the site Dave mentions has their flush kit >$100, a new copper coil CAN be found for ~$190 (for 30'), but is also much safer if you plan to stay in the home a long time....or just want to do it right :)
@@mabelisle the refrigerant that comes factory charged in the condensing unit is typically good for around 15ft of lineset (copper lines). Some places have furnace coil all the way up in the attic or across the house in the basement where you might have a 40ft run of lineset. Therefore, you would need to add refrigerant.
did you ever open the high side??? that would help!
Sorry if it wasn’t in the video, my microns gauge was in the way. Yes both sides need to be opened fully.
Good place to buy vacuum pump kit?
I have a few in my Amazon store in the video description 👍🏼
I dont know its worth its weight in gold.
I usually see guys doing this go do other things. I dont know if the extra "speed" it provides is worth it.
Sounds more like a headache specially if its zoned and upstairs air handler.looks like youll have stop half and check and open valves since its so dang on fast
How come you didn't release the liquid line to the system 🤔
This video was about a vacuum pull in a few short minutes. I am unsure about what he had for lunch that day but am certain he released the lines to finish the install.
If you do a vacuum test and it holds vacuum, do you still need to do a pressure test with nitrogen or is the vacuum test good enough?
Of course. Nitrogen is hygroscopic and anything to remove moisture is key! Purge , vacuum and fill by weight then run. After a while do your, pressures,then superheat calcs and should be good.
If it holds from a repair, it's your call to say it's good to go. But most insert nitro after a repair and soap test area to confirm. Then vacuum and confirm. The charge or open system back
Some do, some do not. It seems with most DIY installs, a pressure test is skipped. I find that a nice long vacuum that is not rushed is enough and yet my buddy always pressure tests.
Have a good supply of nitrogen on hand, sweep the system well with the nitrogen, and then its very easy to pull a vacuum because the moisture is gone.
I’ve never had to do this. But I have heard of a triple Evac. Maybe for a super large system?
@@diyhvacguy No, for a regular domestic system while using a suboptimal vacuum set-up, flushing the moisture out first makes it go super easy.
Can't this serve as a leak test? I mean certainly the system is going to not hold a vacuum if your connections aren't tight right?
That’s right. BUT only with the micron gauge. A very small leak in a system will not make you lose your vacuum but the micron gauge is VERY specific. If it doesn’t hold at 500 or even close to 500 that’s a really good indicator that you have a leak somewhere 👍🏼
@@diyhvacguy Awesome thanks for the response! I have a micron gauge so good to know as I'm about to do my test now!
@@diyhvacguyCan you tell me...... How the Quality of NAVAC Quality Comparing to Fieldpiece and RobinAir ❓❓
29 years never heard it called a Vacrometer! Micron Gauge yes.
look closely on the tool in the video it says it :o)
Micron is a measuring unit of the vacuum-ing process. Hence, Micron gauge is the measuring meter. Vacrometer, however, seems like a fancy manufacturer created 'derivative' of VACuum-miCRon Meter = VACRO Meter
Does pulling a vacuum remove whatever air/gas was in the lines? I’m asking because I’m installing my own Goodman AC unit and to pressure test, I was hoping to use my welding tank which is a combo of Argon/CO2. The alternative is buying a nitrogen tank, but was hoping to avoid that since I have the welding tank on hand. I’m not sure if it matters what gas you use to pressure test, but please tell me if I’m wrong. Thanks so much for the videos and inspiring DIY guys like me to do this.
Hey! Thanks for the message. I’ve never heard of anyone doing that but it’s probably fine. As long as it’s a dry gas. If you need some help and advice with your install, check out our Patreon membership over at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy for $25 (cancellable at any time) we will give you one on one assistance with all things hvac. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy Thanks! By the way, I love how you put a DIY spin on your repairs. It irks me when I look up a question online and see a HVAC forum with the same question asked by someone else that I have and the responses from techs are like, “are you licensed, if not, don’t attempt…”. Etc. Thanks again!
The vacuum pump pulls out most all the air and any moisture so it should work fine
@@bartfoster1311 Thank you, Bart! I appreciate it.
yeah probably a good investment if you'll be using it a lot.
I'm a HVAC technician,I believe you can achieve a better vacuum in the system by hocking up a manifold gauge on the high side & low side on the system for the vacuum to pull out not only air but also any moisture and stock liquid and debris in the system and if you must use one hose,I also believe that the liquid side or high side is the best side use.
You’ve got to spend some money to make money. Stop pulling through your manifolds!
Why? I've been doing it for 15 years with no problems. Keep your hoses and gauges in good condition and it works just fine.
I've never heard a micron gauge called a vacrometer.
Yea it’s right on the gauge itself.
I WATCH A LOT VIDEOS ABOUT INSTALLING CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONER 👍👍👍👍LET TALK TO THE POINT 😱😱😱😱IF YOU VACUUMED THE SYSTEM CORRECTLY 😱😱😱😱AND IT IS HOLDING 👍👍👍👍YOU DO NOT NEED PRESSURE TEST😱😱😱😱AN I CORRECT ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
DIY but u have to spend a few hundred at least on the tools to do it properly.
Few hundred on a decent pump,almost two hundred on a Micron gauge,couple hundred on a set of gauges so figure an even grand! Honestley,no DIY'er should ever even attemp this,you will have no warranty,you wont know if there is an issue,you wont be able to complete a factory required start up procedure etc! Just take the time to find a reputable company or individual that wont rip you off,and will stand behind his work! They do exhist
Yeah more like couple of grand for fancy setup. He noted the vacuum pump was 800 smackers
Yes if you don’t have the mechanical skills and feel confident or don’t want to spend some dough on tools I definitely recommend finding a company to do this job. 👍🏼
@@diyhvacguyit’s more of a diy if you are in trades and have some of the tools or all of the tools but this isn’t your speciality. As an automotive mechanic I had all the tools I needed originally sans the micron gauge; we don’t use those in automotive. Also, this was a high-end set up; you can get away with a cheaper set up if you’re only going to be doing this kind of work sparingly
@@petersmart1999 I agree but it depends where you live. In FL where we use A/C 350+ days (we turn off our system only for 2 weeks ) there are 1,000s off techs that take short cuts so this info is good and doable for above average DIYers. I have turned away techs that don't bring vacuum pumps and nitrogen even when I verify when contacting. Even then they still do not do the procedures correctly.
You ever seen a long radius elbow soft lad
Why not just get a 1/2" hose for 90 bucks. My co worker has the true blue set. Waste of money. Kit comes with 10 adapters you dont need. Get the impirul hose 1/2" - 1/4
I got the true blue kit and I rate it
Fact is..everyone thinks hvac pays well .that looks like hvac tool companies take advantage ..when reality is a walk to home depot harbor frieght or even auto zone thats ment for automotive or anything else is cheaper then getting it from hvac online store or hvac store
10 Minutes? Why it takes me 60minutes?
If you are using a manifold, it has to travel through some small openings, and has more potential for leaks. Also the hose size makes a huge difference. And if you leave your Schrader valves in, it will take way way longer. This method works fantastic.
Not sure how the 1/8" port opening in the service valve is any different than the 1/8" port in the manifold...it should be noted he is pulling only on the line set which could be as short as 10', and already dry. I'd like to see this test on a unit that already had refrigerant in it or large walk in cooler or freezer. Then I might believe.
Do we ever talk about permits for the diy'er? Warranty's that need to be registered by a licensed contractor? Before you say it in not a contractor but the avg Joe should know all the facts.
put on gloves .......lmfao