This is on where doing the third step of saddle stitching would have really paid off. 1. Front needle to rear, but don't tighten, leave a loop. 2. Rear needle to front, then pass through the loop, always the same way. 3. Tighten. That ensures the lin of stitching always slopes the same way SSSSSSS or ZZZZZZZZZ Because you're using fairly thick leather on the eyelet line, I'd suggest using contact cement along the line of holes between the outer stitching, let it pretty much dry, then hammer the fold over with the eyelets going in immediately. Locating pins in the stitching would also help. There's enough room to add some 1.8mm elliptical boning as well. Using locator pins on those cups would also probably help if underwiring. There might be a need to add modesty panels for the side gores, as some wearers could need them loosened. Simple triangles stitched on just one side under the forward line of stitching should work
That is absolutely gorgeous. Thank you for sharing. 💯😁👍
This is on where doing the third step of saddle stitching would have really paid off.
1. Front needle to rear, but don't tighten, leave a loop.
2. Rear needle to front, then pass through the loop, always the same way.
3. Tighten.
That ensures the lin of stitching always slopes the same way SSSSSSS or ZZZZZZZZZ
Because you're using fairly thick leather on the eyelet line, I'd suggest using contact cement along the line of holes between the outer stitching, let it pretty much dry, then hammer the fold over with the eyelets going in immediately. Locating pins in the stitching would also help. There's enough room to add some 1.8mm elliptical boning as well.
Using locator pins on those cups would also probably help if underwiring.
There might be a need to add modesty panels for the side gores, as some wearers could need them loosened. Simple triangles stitched on just one side under the forward line of stitching should work
Oh, a refinement for the materials list: the leather has to be veg-tanned to tool.