Hopefully by now you have a splitter behind the saw blade. Helps keep the board from pinching the blade and also helps protect debris (wood pieces, bark, and boards from getting on top of the blade and pitching them with great force past the head sawyer. Note in most old sawmills that there are holes in the end of the sawmill where debris has been thrown with great force by the saw blade. Great job building up that old Belsaw.
You will have to get your power right before you can really get your lead set. If I remember correctly it takes about 4 hp for every tooth. Also each tooth is should take about a .050 of an inch cut. Multiply .050 X your number of teeth and this will give you the carriage travel per rev of the blade. Good to see the detail in your work.
I am looking for a power unit. Will switch it to belt drive. I can cut straight boards if I set everything just so but it takes some work. For this reason I don’t mill for other people. Thanks for watching and the advice!
People do not realize that a circle sawmill is a precision assembly, and there are many places that have to be exact in their positions in order to produce quality lumber. The collars for the head saw, as you said have to have a slight taper so that the outer edge is the only part that is gripping the blade, and the lead on the blade should be about 1/32 of an inch towards the cant. Then there is blade tension, and on, and on. I look forward to seeing it after you get everything adjusted, and worked out.
Yes I would have been better off just buying a bandsaw but hopefully, if I can get camera girl to shoot some video, you can see us mill an Elm tree that recently fell. Thanks for tuning in.
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill I know bandsaws are the latest rage, but I still love the circular sawmill. Fricke was the first one I ever worked with and know the most about, which isn`t much.
Nice details in your video I gleaned some useful information. Thank You I picked up a 14 on steel with a 48" b style blade and was pleasantly surprised to see the cast tool basket still there it had the serial # 14022 stamped on it. I assume it means it is the 22nd one made of the 14 model before they decided to call them m14 for "Mobile" Babbitt bearings are in great shape but the carriage wheels,, not so good. Might be a few years (If ever) to saw on it.
Larry, I have not found any info on deciphering serial numbers. Hope you make a video when u get it commissioned. There are only a few of us on UA-cam. I am making a video right now because I am rebuilding the feedworks. Could have bought 2 bandmills by now with all the time and money!
I gotta tell ya Kim, you got yours running a heck of a lot more true than I have mine !! I need to get back on it one of these days... I hit the track with a loaded trailer last year and knocked it outta whack. I like your use of the lazer, I tried but couldn't see it in the sunlight so I relied on string and a level and got it halfway decent before. I adjusted my lead for 1/16'' but I didn't even think of squaring the blade to the carriage. That might explain me sawing parallelograms instead of rectangles. LOL. I will include that in the process when I get back to working on it. I think my total length iirc is 32' and its built on bar joists. You did one awesome job extending the tracks. I had to turn down a few new wheels and also a few of the pins. I made them like the originals, drilled down the center and out the side with a zerk in the end. I also made new dogs and beefed up the head blocks. You may have commented on the little overview I did on mine, last year but I don't remember. I think I'll go check. LOL. I enjoyed every second of this video sir.
Thanks for watching. When I had my blade hammered, the old guy that did it said I should set zero lead. However, the foley information I have says it should be 1/32" I am cutting up a large elm that broke in half. I will make the next video using the elm and finish up the upgrades. I am looking forward to finally just using my mill and not having to weld on it!
Thanks , yes the wind even gentle would move it. I don’t do anything right the first time it seems. I ended up making some stretchers and purchased some music wire. It did not move EXCEPT when a welding bead hit it! Here is the first of 2 videos (thanks for the feedback): Truing Circle Sawmill, 1 of 2 ua-cam.com/video/BGz5nep_Ujs/v-deo.html
Great video. I’d always thought about putting the guide rail on he other side of the mill, since my guide rail is always packed full of sawdust and the two pieces spread apart over time. I may go to a monorail setup. You had to buy a longer cable, didn’t ya! $ I’m not sure you’ll have room for four wraps though. You didn’t mention it but how much lead did you put into your blade. We need an edger! Stay safe, bud
I have trouble with sawdust on the tracks too. I picked up a mud flap on the side of the road yesterday and will make a more precise sweep. You are right, I will have to lengthen the spool because w/3 wraps, the cable bumps the spool side about 4' from the ends. Very good that you caught that! Foley says 1/32 but the old guy that hammered my blade said zero lead. So I will test it at zero on soft and hardwood and determine what is best. Its always an experiment. Thanks for watching!
When you measured your saw lead, you had 3-7/8” at both points of measuring. Doesn’t this mean you have no lead, and need to adjust (toe) the mandrel shaft?
Justin I have zero lead. It is finicky and you just have to try it with a circular mill. I have also run at 1/32. I have not got this mill running completely right yet.
I just bought a m14 out of a barn , never used . We found everything but the loose blade collar. How did you remove the fixed collar to get Machined ? And do you have pictures of the loose collar ? I need any help I can get ?
Brandon you can take the mandrel with the collar to a machine shop and they can make a matching collar. They can make sure there is about .002" of clearance inside the collar and the rim of the collar is the only thing touching the blade. I have not been able to find aftermarket parts for the mill.
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill Thanks for getting back to me .... I appreciate the info . So I’m guessing that the loose collar also needs to be machined as an insert for the blade ? I mean something has to center the blade on the shaft ... correct??? This is all new to me .
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill I will be heading to my shop this morning to work for the day . I will look at it again . I must be over looking or over thinking it . The hole in the center of the blade is 2” I don’t recall any shoulder to support or center the blade .
@@brandonwilson8974 The original blade is 40" inserted bit. Sounds like you have a different blade. The machine shop can make the insert needed to reduce from 2" to 1 3/8" to go back to the diameter of the mandrel where blade will sit. I believe the loose collar is over 4" diameter and the collars only hold at the outer diameter . So collar will clear the insert (this insert will look like 1/4" thick washer).
Well I'm under powered so I hit the log with the mandrel at 600 rpm. A small log lets the case run so I probably maintain 540. Big logs can go to zero rpm.
Hopefully by now you have a splitter behind the saw blade. Helps keep the board from pinching the blade and also helps protect debris (wood pieces, bark, and boards from getting on top of the blade and pitching them with great force past the head sawyer. Note in most old sawmills that there are holes in the end of the sawmill where debris has been thrown with great force by the saw blade.
Great job building up that old Belsaw.
Deernut I got it done after it almost killed me throwing a 2” board at me. I guess you have been around sawmills in your past ?
hi there well done john
You will have to get your power right before you can really get your lead set. If I remember correctly it takes about 4 hp for every tooth. Also each tooth is should take about a .050 of an inch cut. Multiply .050 X your number of teeth and this will give you the carriage travel per rev of the blade. Good to see the detail in your work.
I am looking for a power unit. Will switch it to belt drive. I can cut straight boards if I set everything just so but it takes some work. For this reason I don’t mill for other people. Thanks for watching and the advice!
You're an inspiration to we old Sawyers. Stay strong.
Thanks James. We will be milling cedar for a greenhouse soon. Making a jig for 2x4s so I will show that on the video too.
Love your mill. Very informative video. Still working on my old Belsaw and looking forward to sawing. Love seeing your videos.
Awesome, thank you!
Nice job on the modifications . Loving the saw mill. It is good to see something this old still in use.
Good for farm projects
People do not realize that a circle sawmill is a precision assembly, and there are many places that have to be exact in their positions in order to produce quality lumber. The collars for the head saw, as you said have to have a slight taper so that the outer edge is the only part that is gripping the blade, and the lead on the blade should be about 1/32 of an inch towards the cant. Then there is blade tension, and on, and on. I look forward to seeing it after you get everything adjusted, and worked out.
Yes I would have been better off just buying a bandsaw but hopefully, if I can get camera girl to shoot some video, you can see us mill an Elm tree that recently fell. Thanks for tuning in.
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill I know bandsaws are the latest rage, but I still love the circular sawmill. Fricke was the first one I ever worked with and know the most about, which isn`t much.
Nice details in your video I gleaned some useful information. Thank You
I picked up a 14 on steel with a 48" b style blade and was pleasantly surprised to see the cast tool basket still there it had the serial # 14022 stamped on it. I assume it means it is the 22nd one made of the 14 model before they decided to call them m14 for "Mobile" Babbitt bearings are in great shape but the carriage wheels,, not so good. Might be a few years (If ever) to saw on it.
Larry, I have not found any info on deciphering serial numbers. Hope you make a video when u get it commissioned. There are only a few of us on UA-cam. I am making a video right now because I am rebuilding the feedworks. Could have bought 2 bandmills by now with all the time and money!
I gotta tell ya Kim, you got yours running a heck of a lot more true than I have mine !! I need to get back on it one of these days... I hit the track with a loaded trailer last year and knocked it outta whack. I like your use of the lazer, I tried but couldn't see it in the sunlight so I relied on string and a level and got it halfway decent before. I adjusted my lead for 1/16'' but I didn't even think of squaring the blade to the carriage. That might explain me sawing parallelograms instead of rectangles. LOL. I will include that in the process when I get back to working on it. I think my total length iirc is 32' and its built on bar joists. You did one awesome job extending the tracks.
I had to turn down a few new wheels and also a few of the pins. I made them like the originals, drilled down the center and out the side with a zerk in the end. I also made new dogs and beefed up the head blocks. You may have commented on the little overview I did on mine, last year but I don't remember. I think I'll go check. LOL. I enjoyed every second of this video sir.
Thanks for watching. When I had my blade hammered, the old guy that did it said I should set zero lead. However, the foley information I have says it should be 1/32" I am cutting up a large elm that broke in half. I will make the next video using the elm and finish up the upgrades. I am looking forward to finally just using my mill and not having to weld on it!
Nice job. It may be the log but it doesn't seem like the tractor labored as much now. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks 👍 Glad to see your still around!
Your setup is beginning to look real fine. Thanks for the video. Please make some more.
Thanks for watching!
For a string, I use wire feed wire pulled with a ratchet strap. Regular string is to flimsy.
Thanks , yes the wind even gentle would move it. I don’t do anything right the first time it seems. I ended up making some stretchers and purchased some music wire. It did not move EXCEPT when a welding bead hit it! Here is the first of 2 videos (thanks for the feedback):
Truing Circle Sawmill, 1 of 2
ua-cam.com/video/BGz5nep_Ujs/v-deo.html
Now we are ready to go to work.
Great video. I’d always thought about putting the guide rail on he other side of the mill, since my guide rail is always packed full of sawdust and the two pieces spread apart over time. I may go to a monorail setup.
You had to buy a longer cable, didn’t ya! $
I’m not sure you’ll have room for four wraps though.
You didn’t mention it but how much lead did you put into your blade.
We need an edger!
Stay safe, bud
I have trouble with sawdust on the tracks too. I picked up a mud flap on the side of the road yesterday and will make a more precise sweep. You are right, I will have to lengthen the spool because w/3 wraps, the cable bumps the spool side about 4' from the ends. Very good that you caught that! Foley says 1/32 but the old guy that hammered my blade said zero lead. So I will test it at zero on soft and hardwood and determine what is best. Its always an experiment. Thanks for watching!
When you measured your saw lead, you had 3-7/8” at both points of measuring. Doesn’t this mean you have no lead, and need to adjust (toe) the mandrel shaft?
Justin I have zero lead. It is finicky and you just have to try it with a circular mill. I have also run at 1/32. I have not got this mill running completely right yet.
I just bought a m14 out of a barn , never used . We found everything but the loose blade collar. How did you remove the fixed collar to get Machined ? And do you have pictures of the loose collar ? I need any help I can get ?
Brandon you can take the mandrel with the collar to a machine shop and they can make a matching collar. They can make sure there is about .002" of clearance inside the collar and the rim of the collar is the only thing touching the blade. I have not been able to find aftermarket parts for the mill.
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill
Thanks for getting back to me .... I appreciate the info . So I’m guessing that the loose collar also needs to be machined as an insert for the blade ? I mean something has to center the blade on the shaft ... correct??? This is all new to me .
Yes the new collar will match the one on the mandrel. The hole i think is 1 3/8”. The threads are backwards.
@@TripleTRanchAndSawmill
I will be heading to my shop this morning to work for the day . I will look at it again . I must be over looking or over thinking it . The hole in the center of the blade is 2” I don’t recall any shoulder to support or center the blade .
@@brandonwilson8974 The original blade is 40" inserted bit. Sounds like you have a different blade. The machine shop can make the insert needed to reduce from 2" to 1 3/8" to go back to the diameter of the mandrel where blade will sit. I believe the loose collar is over 4" diameter and the collars only hold at the outer diameter . So collar will clear the insert (this insert will look like 1/4" thick washer).
What rpm are you running that at
Well I'm under powered so I hit the log with the mandrel at 600 rpm. A small log lets the case run so I probably maintain 540. Big logs can go to zero rpm.