My son and I have done the 200tdi conversion into Series 3 without the turbo....it’s still a strong and powerful diesel without turbo and starts after half a turn in all weathers even without heater plugs. Look up Glencoyne Engineering.....the owner is really helpful - he has all the information you need to do this conversion. He also supplies quality parts you may need and can undertake some of the limited engineering needed. Stephen
Have a 200tdi in mine and everytime starts effortlessly without heater. Little smoky on start up but soon clears. New set valve stem oil seals I think ect but will leave as apart from this small inconvenience she runs perfectly. Garret turbo on top works perfectly. In my opinion it's the best and easiest conversion in place coming 20 years
200(t)di remains top of my wishlist if I ever go to covert. Thankfully managed to salvage my 2.25d with some JB Weld, so will run with it for a while yet
Toyota 2,4D works well, done many times in South Africa. These engines are legendary for reliability and although not endowed with huge torque or power it will make your Landy a lot more usable and to be honest any more power in an old Landy would render it unsafe with its brakes, suspension and steering being what they are
a popular conversion here in australia was to put a Holden 186 red motor in landrovers fairly basic conversion if the engine runs good i'd look at getting the crack wellded properly done it will last the life of the vehicle it needs to be plug welded to stop the crack returning look up metalshapers channel he repairs early jeep blocks unless you change the gearing in the diffs the rover will still be a slow vehicle not sure how your registation system over there works but if you go down the path of changing the engine you might need a engineers certificate
Hi there, here in Australia some of the earlier versions of land rovers as supplied to the Army had 3.9 litre isuzu 4 cylinder diesels . This motor was the 4BD1, not sure if the army had the turbo version of it. They went well in the n series isuzu's . In the land rover swb it would go very well. Or the other isuzu engine, was the 4BE1 n/a, of 3.6 litre capacity, I've had many of those and found them to have good power in the light trucks and economical. Food for thought for the " Landy "
Had a series 3 diesel that had the 2.5 litre N/A diesel installed, straight swap basically, I had to relocate the battery under the passenger seat though, used to regularly get better than 30 mpg when used with the overdrive, a good choice if changing the engine without any major cutting to chassis or panels. The 3.9 litre fuel injected V8 is an excellent choice if you don't mind all the work involved and the grin will go from ear to ear!!!!!
I have swapped my 2.25 petrol for a 200tdi into my series 3, I used the engine mounts from a transit which reduces the vibration quite a lot. I also used higher ratio diffs which helped massively!
I really like the idea of one! Does the Zeus kit fit the standard wheel size? I like to keep mine visually quite standard (it will return to original Limestone soon).
I put in a turbo 200tdi from a discovery into my 67 2A 16 years ago, it's a straight swap. Kept the original rad, gearbox, brakes and suspension but changed the diffs from a discovery. I can't remember what the intercooler came out of, I think it was a Renault? But it sits perfectly in front of the rad and the oil cooler sits on the side of the radiator. It's my daily driver and in 16 years the only problem I've had is the bypass hose on the thermostat housing burst. I did do an engine rebuild before putting it in.
I have a series 3 88 here in Canada, I kept the diesel, and the 2.25 gaser, and installed a chev 4.3 V6 out of a chev S10. The original engines are clean and wrapped in plastic for the future, but the V6 fits nice, was an easy swap, and uses no more gas than stock. However the increase in BHP is very nice and the twin exhaust sounds great. Im also building an 88 into a rover 4.0 V8 at present, its an uphill battle. so much shifting about of things to make it fit, kind of goes againt my original goal of keeping everything stock and just adding the V8.
I put the Rover SD1 V8 into my series 2, with the o/d. It was a really fast machine and quite economical, I was getting 25MPG on a run and could cruise all day at 70 MPH. I did upgrade the brakes, Used the ones from the old 1-ton and installed a servo. I had no problems with the standard transmission, although I never used my "lead" foot in first. The standard series3 rad, with electric fan only, will work ok for normal motoring. Good luck!
My first option would be to repair the block using the metal lock system, like cold stitching but better. I have had large tractor castings repaired using this method. If I was to convert, I would go for a straight six but rather than the 2.6 litre, I would use a 3 litre. Same engine block and they were used in the Rover 3 litre P5.
@@restosaga thank you for your quick reply and interest, why go for RAL1015 in photo black amazing look and aggressive. Bmw black sapphire metallic or Solid paint
The most common 200 tdi ore 300tdi is to do a way with the turbo as the transmition is not strong enough for the turbo in heavy use so if you wont a trubo i would recommend to up rate the transmission and most of the drive chain to the defender ore remove the terbo is you wont it to stay as standard as possible
I did a V8 conversion on my series 1 If I was going to fit a v8 again I would look into using a range rover gearbox as the conversion plate is expensive you also need to mod the crank or the input shaft on the gearbox. Loads of fun to drive when finished .
We fitted a Perkins Prima 2 litre turbo diesel in my brothers Series 2a, What a difference!! possibly the best engine Landrover never fitted, it halved the fuel usage & could happily cruise all day a 70mph. I've just acquired a series 3 88 fitted with a 2.5 transit 'banana' engine. it goes well but is very noisy, which doesn.t really bother me. but for sheer grunt the Perkins 4203 3.3 litre can be fun & pull away from a standing start up hill in top! Lol, but rather slow.
Have you considered having the block "metal stitched" (block is drilled along and across the crack and soft steel wedges are driven in and peened into the drillings to "fill" the crack) which may be possible in situ (depends on the company or how serious the crack is) but if not engine only has to be sent as unit only removing parts to allow access, we've just had an 8 litre Iveco diesel from a combine harvester with a 12" crack in the block repaired when finished you couldn't see the repair and was pressure tested as well.
@@restosaga your welcome! Hey as long as it works! I done a search on stitching after commenting and a chap has actually done it on a cracked engine block for a landy. Video also on youtube. Just out of interest im looking at a series 3 for a project do you know any other good resources?
Great, I’ll have a look for that video! When I got mine I did most of my research through the magazines (Classic Land Rover is particularly good). Though now I guess online is probably as good. Happy to help where I can!
@@restosaga well ive been looking at one online, it that hasnt ran for a couple of years. I dont think I have a problem with skills to do work but I also wouldnt want to buy a complete wreck and be throwing nothing but money and time at it
Old Transit engine's in my lightweight. She starts after a single turn even after sitting for 6+ months and doesn't seem to ever stop! The thing will run long after im gone!
I think if I was doing higher miles I really would be up for a 200tdi, not sure I can justify all the work to install it for all the use it will get though sadly.
@@restosaga 200tdi without turbo basically a bolt in allegedly. There is some great info on 200tdi and di here: www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversionIntro.htm
I took a Perkins engine out of a 1960's class matador combine in the late 80's and put it in my Range Rover it ran well but needed the diff ratios changing to give it more top end it earned it keep pulling my Diesel Bowser and plant trailer ect
I have a 305 small block chevy conversion in mine. A tired 305 should help the trans live. Probably 100 horse guessing. I have an l99 baby lt1 4.3 liter v8 to swap for fuel injection and better economy. Should all just bolt right up
Use jb weld with fibre glass reinforcement tape. Just like a mesh. Do the repair with a large surface area and it will stick forever . Have done this on my 2.0 rover p4. Works perfectly :)
200 tdi. I fitted the inter cooler and a 300 turbo/ manifold. (Better pipe work). The turbo spins up and probably isn’t essential but I’ve done it now!
I'm picking up a 1974 Series III tomorrow. The thought of a V8 is intriguing. I would almost think a Buick or Rover 215 cu inch V8 would work fine. Curious
IIRC, the original diesel that yours is based on was exactly the same block as the petrol! When LR started considering releasing a diesel the engineers 'checked the numbers' on the petrol block and despite diesel being twice the compression ratio they reckoned the block could withstand it! If you want a 2.25 petrol, try and source the 5 main bearing type as opposed to the 3 MB for obvious reasons. You also said 2nd gear is a little troublesome, perhaps another leftfield idea would be a donor Disco and use both the 200/300tdi PLUS the gearbox which would give you five speeds, then just sell on whatever is left over to a LR scrappy. Also, depending on your final engine choice you could consider swapping the Series diffs of 4.7/1 for Range Rover 3.54/1. I'm not sure but I would presume if you went donor Disco route those diffs MAY fit as well, halfshafts may require changing depending on the number of splines. There's also the option of front brake disc conversion or perhaps swapping the SWB 10" drums for the LWB 1 ton 11" drums but I'm not sure how easy that is to fit. A lot would depend on your level of spanner wielding, which already sounds far ahead of my own! Good luck!
I have an Australian Army 6 cylinder, which has a lovely sound and a tad more power than the 4 cylinder. Oil changes shouldn’t be neglected and it can’t be abused like the 4 cylinder but it’s much more refined and interesting!
Hi, I am currently facing the same topic. I have a worn out 2.25 diesel, and was looking at all the options. To be honest I have decided to go with the 2.5l petrol cause of the power and how easy it is to swap. I was able to find two for a reasonable price here in Ireland in a matter of 1 week. And the good part is that the 2.5 has the hardend valves which allows unleadded petrol. All you need to chnage is the trottle linkage and the exhaust wich is available from Steve Parkers. The electrics is a easy job. Cheers
@@restosaga Well I havent started yet, but all you need is a ACC wire for the ignition coil and the Carburettor solenoid. Just make sure that they are are still live during cranking. I cant think of anything else. Of course you need to have a mechanical fuel pump, but you can use the one from a 2.25 petrol.
I have a 2.5 petrol also, but with 2.25 manifolds + exhaust. For electrics the stater solenoid is on the starter, so may need wiring extended if yours is by air filter
Would you not be concerned that you will loose it's originality if you move from the 2.25D ?.. If it's there 8 years, why not consider leaving it as is, put a repair additive in the radiator and see how that goes. My opinion keep it orginal the best you can.
Access is very difficult and would probably need the engine out plus finding someone local who does it. I used epoxy steel in the end, seems to be holding well so far!
did you do the conversion? ive got a 2a swb with no engine and found a range rover 3.5 v8 for a $300 AUD. its very tempting, but im scared on how much it will set me back
Restosaga Workshop v8 sounds nice, but they: high maintenance, you'll have to butcher your nice original vehicle to fit it, you'll break your tranny/diff sooner or later. Also your brakes need to be upgraded. If you don't do many miles: 2.25 or 2.5 petrol is the nicest to live with
Have you made a decision on the course of action? You could mechanically repair that cracked block - a "metal stitch" repair would probably the most effective. Having done this myself, it does require a great deal of time and care, but usually results in a far more reliable repair than welding. That said, if you go down the route of engine out, strip down etc.. then have a look into laser welding, it doesn't need the pre-heating and doesn't put great amounts of heat into the casting. If that were mine, I'd certainly be doing a metal stitch repair, but don't dismiss products like "K-Seal" or "Radweld" which can actually do the job long term for a minor leak.
Thanks for your comment Phillip and thanks for watching also! At the moment my plan is the keep the engine I have and when I have the wing off for painting I will lightly die-grind out the crack and drill it at both ends before filling it with JB Weld. I have found someone who could weld it but access may be an issue for them. Love your videos and FB posts by the way, keep up the good work!
@@restosaga I'm sure that will last just fine, and if it doesn't it's not so permanent that you haven't got other options. Glad you enjoy my posts, I always enjoy following other Land Rover projects too. Good luck with the repair.
I could be wrong here but I believe the cast iron blocks had a tendency to be porous when originally cast so they were treated with some sort of resin. I'd be interested if anyone has any information about this. The land rover should really be kept original. Can't believe I'm saying this but considering what I've said and the small nature of the leak I'd put some radweld in it while no one was looking and deny ever having done so.
@@restosaga It wasn't a coating, it was pressurised and driven into the porosity. I believe they had quite a lot of porous casting during manufacture, I think it was a common practice with castings..
Definitely agree with this. Have patched it now and it has held well for about 2 years. Engine running perfectly still, I wonder if the repair will hold until major work is needed?!
Its very common for the 3 main bearing blocks to crack...this is why they brought out the 5 main bearing...if it was me i would just repair that block if the engines good...
@@restosaga Ive seen a group of Land Rovers with converted Cummins engines. I wish there were more modern engines one can use for a Series swap. Mine barely hits 65 with the Roamer.
I bought a 2.25 diesel series 3 with a view to changing it to a petrol. But I really love the 2.25 diesel, it really suits the Landy character. So I bought a later 5 bearing block and transferred the head over. The 200 tdi should just drop in, no need to move the radiator or modify the bulkhead. But if you get one of the more plentiful Disco engines the turbo is mounted down low and you'll need to get one of the conversion kits to join the to the exhaust. And also you are pretty much doubling the power and feeding that all through the back axle in normal use - there's a reason that Land Rover went full time 4x4. If the tdi is the route you want to take, you might want to consider fitting the LT77 gearbox as well. But then you'll still have the UJs in the front axle..... The 300 tdi would involve some trickery with engine mounts. Both tdi conversions, and the 2.5 na (12J), would mean moving the battery. And don't consider a 19J turbo diesel!!! Like you, I like the idea of the old 6 cylinder though, and if I see a decent one at a reasonable price I might be tempted. Hope that helps. If I were you though, I'd just put in some decent radweld type stuff and see what happens! Hope that helps!
Thanks Stuart, a very comprehensive reply! At the moment I think I will try and use some JB-Weld to repair the crack and go from there. Cheap and nasty yes but for all the miles I do I think it's best. Plus, my mechanic skills would not cover a complex conversion I feel! Watch this space!
Hi Stuart very interesting reply I have just bought a defender90 with a 19j engine what is the issue with those im thinking of replacing it with 300tdi but would like to know why 19j has such a bad name
@@normandbeaches3496 Land Rover made changes to the 12J to help it cope with the extra stresses from the turbo, but not enough! IIRC a lot of them never made it to 100K (mine didn't), they start to breathe heavily, and the oil starts to clog the air filter. I think that cracked pistons and heads were common faults. The older Land Rover diesels don't rev, I found that the turbo just got you to the end of that rev range sooner (maybe taller gearing may have helped?). The TDIs in contrast are excellent, especially when you consider that they are the same basic engine design (though only the crankshaft was carried over). Maybe if your 19J has been looked after (and I guess it must have been to make it this far), and you continue to look after it all could be good. But if you upgrade to a TDI you won't look back. I even prefer the TDI to the TD5!
great vid,ive had landrovers since 1983.oops showing my age! desiels ,petrols .straight 6 ..i wouldnt go for the 6 pot hun, a lot of work putting it in ,weighs a ton! tbh not much more power than a 4 cly petrol, even if you could find one. the parts are crazy price!..they have their origins in the 1950s, inlet valves overhead , exhaust side valve ,and they love going thru head gaskets! ive a 4 cly petrol , just a weber carb on .low miles 47k ,so goes ok , a 9 to 1 head is next on list ,i think yr best plan is a tdi to be on safe side....but on the wild side a v8 or ford v6 !!. but getting a "good" one is very expensive these days
Restosaga Workshop I have just bought a Steve Parker’s conversion plate myself. Saving up for an engine. The 3.0 is awesome. Put RRC diffs in and you can cruise well with modern traffic. Plus still achieve 25mpg. No bulk head modifications either . Just got to get the engine myself and I’ll upload a UA-cam video on it. Will probably be in the new year now once I have my garage .
Did a 2.6 into 88, didn't like it. Heavy, Thirsty and doesn't rev. Repaired a split block with special welding rods, easiest welding I've ever done. Run about and inch, peen it with a small hammer, weld another inch in another spot, peen repeat until damage repaired. TDi 200 bolts straight onto the series gear box ( the 2.6 doesn't unless it was a 2ltre engine box, nor does the TDi 300 ). Disco unit will need a scallop put into top of chassis to accommodate the turbo, defender unit the turbo is up high. Get the radiator and inter cooler from donor vehicle, with a little tin work it will replace your current rad. Very easy conversion, but will take three times as long as you first thought. 3.5 V8 you need to find a conversion kit. A little tin work on the chassis, nothing major. V8 radiator fits between chassis rails, carefull of the steering relay. 109 brakes, servo of some sort and you are sorted. Pull away gently in first, drop into second and hold onto your hat. A good series gearbox will take gentle power as will the half shafts but if you plant your right foot more work is needed.
If you have a large budget, want to completely future-proof it and want the best performance, reliability and comfort, have a think about an electric conversion. Netgear Hyper9 and Nissan Leaf motors seem to be good options with better performance than a Tdi, but having that torque from 0-10,000 rpm. There are a few websites, Facebook groups and professional companies doing it and getting superb results, but it’s not cheap. Don’t bother with a 19J - they crack their heads and pistons. The 12J is pretty robust, though. The Tdis are better, though a bit noisy. The Glencoyne mounts really help with that on the 200. You don’t need any mods to brakes, suspension or transmission. They’re not bigger engines, they just have more ancillaries, and they only damage the transmission if you drive like an idiot.
Thanks Nick, a comprehensive comment! I’m not sold on EVs just yet, not a perfected technology I feel. Appreciate your input re the other diesel options though, thanks! Watch this space!
@@restosaga, I changed my 109 to a 19J in 1993, then a 12J (because the 19J was scrap), then a 200Tdi (Discovery engine with Defender manifolds and turbo, best combination for a couple of reasons). You can take a look at some of how it was done on my blog, but since I already had the Stage 1 bonnet because the clowns who installed the 19J said they needed the space and I was too much of a novice to know better, fitting the rad and intercooler would be different for you if you keep the short bonnet (recommended). Www.nickslandrover.co.uk
Aparrt from the cam belt driven water pump the Peugeot XUD is a very good engine. Turbo ones are pokey and all mechanical. I think the N/A version was fitted to Suzuki SJ's at some point so there may be suitable 4x4 transmission bits available.
Interesting choices. Personally I’d go as close to original as possible but that’s because I think provenance of old Landies is important. My 1973 2.25 SWB petrol is my daily driver on the original engine and although maybe a touch thirsty it just makes me smile with its chugging sound and simplicity. I’m sure you’ll do a cracking job whichever way you go. Looking forward to finding out 👍🏻🍻
Some of the sensible conversions (we will ignore the cummins6BT and Perkins combine engines for now) I have seen are: The perkins Prima 2.0(fitted to freight rovers and the austin montego/maestro) was the engine of choice before 2/300 TDI became easily available Peugeot 2.5 TD from an LDV 400 Peugeot 1.9 XUD9 from pretty much any 90's peugeot /citroen A 200DI (200TDI but with the turbo removed) works very well and won't overpower the transmission but will give you a good usable vehicle Daihatsu 2.8 out of a fourtrak, it would require a new gearbox and transfer box though a variety of Nissan engines but they require parts that are no longer available.
Thank you! I think if I'm going for a new lump then it will be a Land Rover one, likely 200DI as you say. Probably will try to repair the block first though.
The thing to be aware of is that there are many different versions of the Perkins diesel, particularly in 4.236 form. If I was to go down that route, I'd get one from a Dodge 50 van, as it's an automotive version which revs to around 3,100 rpm with max. power around 2,800 rpm. It's very similar to the one Leyland South Africa fitted in the Series IIIS (that was a licence-built Perkins 4.236 known as the Atlantis ADE 236), only they used a Santana gearbox and 109 V8 differentials. Certainly, one from an agricultural or marine application is totally unsuitable, but a lot of people have fitted those which is why they are seen not to work in Land Rovers. You wouldn't fit the Mercury Marine version of the 2.25 diesel to a Land Rover would you?
If its only leaking very little....put some bars leak or rad weld into it and let it be till and see how it goes. If it gives up the ghost....get a 2.25p engine....with the price of derv....the 2.25d makes no sense. Or do what I did.....buy an old Disco....mk 1 is best....get its 200 engine and bin the rest....good scrap prices at the moment. Take off the TURBO....its not needed.....no ned to change much under the bonnet.....keep the std rad.....the battery and oil bath air cleaner can stay were thy are after altering the batt carrier. The 200di wont wreck your gearbox. Most important.....put anti freeze in it.
@@restosaga last time I saw that done was on S.O.S when they rebuilt a 1938 MG with a cracked block.. may be a good start in finding somone.. ua-cam.com/video/aEsKJZORDbk/v-deo.html
I did my series 2. I used a rover v8 engine out of a p6. Use two drivers side manifolds or P6 manifolds that exit straight down. A slight modification to the bulkhead for access to the spark plugs, a Philips bellhousing adapter, range rover flywheel, series 2 rad with extra row of cooling core, mod your series 3 engine mounts, didn't have to touch the battery tray. Use RR classic diffs or 200 TDI, and lwb 109 front breaks. 24 MPG. All simple spanering. Have fun.
Personally, if I was going to go through the trouble of an engine swap I would instal a GMC 4-53 diesel. Worth it just for the sound. ua-cam.com/video/kmQWVerLllI/v-deo.html
My son and I have done the 200tdi conversion into Series 3 without the turbo....it’s still a strong and powerful diesel without turbo and starts after half a turn in all weathers even without heater plugs. Look up Glencoyne Engineering.....the owner is really helpful - he has all the information you need to do this conversion. He also supplies quality parts you may need and can undertake some of the limited engineering needed.
Stephen
Thanks! That’s great to hear. I think the 200tdi without turbo sounds like a good plan!
Have a 200tdi in mine and everytime starts effortlessly without heater. Little smoky on start up but soon clears. New set valve stem oil seals I think ect but will leave as apart from this small inconvenience she runs perfectly. Garret turbo on top works perfectly. In my opinion it's the best and easiest conversion in place coming 20 years
200(t)di remains top of my wishlist if I ever go to covert. Thankfully managed to salvage my 2.25d with some JB Weld, so will run with it for a while yet
Toyota 2,4D works well, done many times in South Africa. These engines are legendary for reliability and although not endowed with huge torque or power it will make your Landy a lot more usable and to be honest any more power in an old Landy would render it unsafe with its brakes, suspension and steering being what they are
That’s an interesting idea! Thanks!
Hi would that be a 2.4D(2L engine)??? Would it work on a series 4 speed gearbox or gearbox will need to be changed aswell??
a popular conversion here in australia was to put a Holden 186 red motor in landrovers fairly basic conversion
if the engine runs good i'd look at getting the crack wellded properly done it will last the life of the vehicle it needs to be plug welded to stop the crack returning
look up metalshapers channel he repairs early jeep blocks
unless you change the gearing in the diffs the rover will still be a slow vehicle
not sure how your registation system over there works but if you go down the path of changing the engine you might need a engineers certificate
Thanks! I’m going to look into having the block properly repaired, shouldn’t be too expensive I hope! Thanks for your comprehensive comment!
A Tdi300 will be a beauty on it.
The 300 does seem to be a popular suggestion here! Thanks!
Hi there, here in Australia some of the earlier versions of land rovers as supplied to the Army had 3.9 litre isuzu 4 cylinder diesels .
This motor was the 4BD1, not sure if the army had the turbo version of it. They went well in the n series isuzu's . In the land rover swb it would go very well.
Or the other isuzu engine, was the 4BE1 n/a, of 3.6 litre capacity, I've had many of those and found them to have good power in the light trucks and economical.
Food for thought for the " Landy "
Nice ideas Roy, thanks! Definite food for thought!
Right! My gearbox is giving trouble too, never stops with these trucks!
What did you go for in the end , I had a series 3 with the 3.5 lump, great fun and fantastic sound
I patched the crack with epoxy steel putty in the end! It’s held well now for over a year and saved me a fortune in time and money!
Had a series 3 diesel that had the 2.5 litre N/A diesel installed, straight swap basically, I had to relocate the battery under the passenger seat though, used to regularly get better than 30 mpg when used with the overdrive, a good choice if changing the engine without any major cutting to chassis or panels. The 3.9 litre fuel injected V8 is an excellent choice if you don't mind all the work involved and the grin will go from ear to ear!!!!!
I like your thinking, thanks for the help!
I have swapped my 2.25 petrol for a 200tdi into my series 3, I used the engine mounts from a transit which reduces the vibration quite a lot. I also used higher ratio diffs which helped massively!
This seems to be a very popular combination of modifications, thank you! Hopefully I’ll be able to repair my own block, fingers crossed!
It was recommended to me by a friend as I was looking to make mine a daily runner and I wouldn’t go back! My next upgrade is a disc brake conversion!
Nice one, which disc brake conversion kit are you looking at?
I’m going with the Zeus kit, it’s a little more expensive but worth it I think! Are you getting a disc brake conversion kit?
I really like the idea of one! Does the Zeus kit fit the standard wheel size? I like to keep mine visually quite standard (it will return to original Limestone soon).
I put in a turbo 200tdi from a discovery into my 67 2A 16 years ago, it's a straight swap. Kept the original rad, gearbox, brakes and suspension but changed the diffs from a discovery. I can't remember what the intercooler came out of, I think it was a Renault? But it sits perfectly in front of the rad and the oil cooler sits on the side of the radiator.
It's my daily driver and in 16 years the only problem I've had is the bypass hose on the thermostat housing burst.
I did do an engine rebuild before putting it in.
Nice one! You make it sound quite straightforward!
@@restosaga
Pretty well was, the hardest part was finding an intercooler to fit, spent a few days trawling ebay till one came up.
Excellent!
+1 for the 300tdi, great engine. 👍
It does seem a popular choice!
I have a series 3 88 here in Canada, I kept the diesel, and the 2.25 gaser, and installed a chev 4.3 V6 out of a chev S10. The original engines are clean and wrapped in plastic for the future, but the V6 fits nice, was an easy swap, and uses no more gas than stock. However the increase in BHP is very nice and the twin exhaust sounds great. Im also building an 88 into a rover 4.0 V8 at present, its an uphill battle. so much shifting about of things to make it fit, kind of goes againt my original goal of keeping everything stock and just adding the V8.
Nice one, it’s great you have kept the original stuff too 👍🏻
I put the Rover SD1 V8 into my series 2, with the o/d. It was a really fast machine and quite economical, I was getting 25MPG on a run and could cruise all day at 70 MPH. I did upgrade the brakes, Used the ones from the old 1-ton and installed a servo. I had no problems with the standard transmission, although I never used my "lead" foot in first. The standard series3 rad, with electric fan only, will work ok for normal motoring. Good luck!
That sounds just perfect! I like the idea of using all original Land Rover stuff too. Thanks!
My first option would be to repair the block using the metal lock system, like cold stitching but better. I have had large tractor castings repaired using this method. If I was to convert, I would go for a straight six but rather than the 2.6 litre, I would use a 3 litre. Same engine block and they were used in the Rover 3 litre P5.
3 litre option sounds amazing! Nice!
Beautiful series and color. Is this original paint what the color code please
Thanks! No, this is BMW Black Sapphire paint. Some day soon it will go back to original Limestone (RAL1015)
@@restosaga thank you for your quick reply and interest, why go for RAL1015 in photo black amazing look and aggressive. Bmw black sapphire metallic or Solid paint
Sapphire metallic! I don’t really like the black anymore and would like to see it original again I’m afraid!
@@restosaga good. Waiting photos or video with new original paint. Green also beautiful
Thanks, watch this space!
Fill it with rad weld.
I have a 2.5 na in my 1985 90, not had many problems. Could do with some valve seals though as a bit smokey.
I think I’ll try and fix it myself as you say, nothing too pricey. Mine’s smokey too!
The most common 200 tdi ore 300tdi is to do a way with the turbo as the transmition is not strong enough for the turbo in heavy use so if you wont a trubo i would recommend to up rate the transmission and most of the drive chain to the defender ore remove the terbo is you wont it to stay as standard as possible
200di is definitely something to consider, thanks!
Did you get the crack sorted?
Yes, I did thanks. I used JB Weld epoxy steel in the end. Cheap and simple and it has held now for about 3 years!
@@restosaga It's probably OK as it doesn't get every day hard use. Unfortunately when I have tried similar it didn't work. Well done.
@landroverihtractor1965 thanks, it’ll hold as long as it holds. Nothing ventured, nothing gained
Have you looked at ACR for options very helpfull .I run a 2,5 sage 2head ,on Lpg daily driver works for me.
They do seem to do lovely work. Not sure my budget would stretch that far at present but maybe some day!
My old S3 had a 3.6L FordSon Major Tractor engine. 4 pot! It only reved to 1800 rpm but it pulled like a train at lower revs.
Nice one! I’m sure it really was properly torquey!
I did a V8 conversion on my series 1 If I was going to fit a v8 again I would look into using a range rover gearbox as the conversion plate is expensive you also need to mod the crank or the input shaft on the gearbox. Loads of fun to drive when finished .
Super, thanks for this, definitely food for thought!
We fitted a Perkins Prima 2 litre turbo diesel in my brothers Series 2a, What a difference!! possibly the best engine Landrover never fitted, it halved the fuel usage & could happily cruise all day a 70mph.
I've just acquired a series 3 88 fitted with a 2.5 transit 'banana' engine. it goes well but is very noisy, which doesn.t really bother me.
but for sheer grunt the Perkins 4203 3.3 litre can be fun & pull away from a standing start up hill in top! Lol, but rather slow.
Nice, not sure the gearbox would last long though?
Have you considered having the block "metal stitched" (block is drilled along and across the crack and soft steel wedges are driven in and peened into the drillings to "fill" the crack) which may be possible in situ (depends on the company or how serious the crack is) but if not engine only has to be sent as unit only removing parts to allow access, we've just had an 8 litre Iveco diesel from a combine harvester with a 12" crack in the block repaired when finished you couldn't see the repair and was pressure tested as well.
Thanks Steve, this sounds like a great solution, I’ll look into it!
If you are replacing the bulkhead, LR90 ones fit and have room for engine swaps. You will have to use the old winscreen to make the hardtop fit.
Thanks for this! Sticking with the 2.25d at present but food for thought if I go V8!
Is the block not the same as a petrol block?
I think it is very similar, not an expert though!
It might be possible to stich the cast block. You can do this by drilling and tapping overlapping holes. Also you can buy specific items for this.
Thanks! I ended up patching it with expoxy steel which has held well so far. May need welded in the end though!
@@restosaga your welcome! Hey as long as it works!
I done a search on stitching after commenting and a chap has actually done it on a cracked engine block for a landy. Video also on youtube.
Just out of interest im looking at a series 3 for a project do you know any other good resources?
Great, I’ll have a look for that video! When I got mine I did most of my research through the magazines (Classic Land Rover is particularly good). Though now I guess online is probably as good. Happy to help where I can!
@@restosaga well ive been looking at one online, it that hasnt ran for a couple of years. I dont think I have a problem with skills to do work but I also wouldnt want to buy a complete wreck and be throwing nothing but money and time at it
There is definitely a fine balance to be had! Best to see it in person and if the chassis and bulkhead are ok that’s a good start!
Old Transit engine's in my lightweight. She starts after a single turn even after sitting for 6+ months and doesn't seem to ever stop! The thing will run long after im gone!
Nice, a different option for sure!
I have a 2.25 petrol 88" with the ACR bolt-ons - throttle is extremely on/off, but it really does move...
Nice! Thanks for this!
200 tdi without the turbo, same engine mounts, no more noisy than your current engine, can use your exhaust manifold.
I think if I was doing higher miles I really would be up for a 200tdi, not sure I can justify all the work to install it for all the use it will get though sadly.
@@restosaga 200tdi without turbo basically a bolt in allegedly. There is some great info on 200tdi and di here: www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversionIntro.htm
Thanks Brett, looking into all the options
Was there no anti freeze in your motor?????
There was anti-freeze in there. This LR sat in a field for 20-ish years so likely got frost damaged then.
Did you swap it or repair it?
Repaired it in the end! Some epoxy steel over the crack has held now for a few years. Cheaper and less work than a swap!
I took a Perkins engine out of a 1960's class matador combine in the late 80's and put it in my Range Rover it ran well but needed the diff ratios changing to give it more top end it earned it keep pulling my Diesel Bowser and plant trailer ect
That sounds amazing! Some noise out of it too I’m sure!
I know you want to repaint it but it really does look good in back
Thanks Conor, much appreciated!
I have a 305 small block chevy conversion in mine. A tired 305 should help the trans live. Probably 100 horse guessing. I have an l99 baby lt1 4.3 liter v8 to swap for fuel injection and better economy. Should all just bolt right up
Oooh, very nice, I’m sure the small block sounds great!
Use jb weld with fibre glass reinforcement tape. Just like a mesh. Do the repair with a large surface area and it will stick forever . Have done this on my 2.0 rover p4. Works perfectly :)
Nice one, thanks very much!
I've heard a few people used to use the smiley transit engines 2.5 di
Nice idea! Thanks!
200 tdi. I fitted the inter cooler and a 300 turbo/ manifold. (Better pipe work). The turbo spins up and probably isn’t essential but I’ve done it now!
Excellent, thank you very much!
I'm picking up a 1974 Series III tomorrow. The thought of a V8 is intriguing. I would almost think a Buick or Rover 215 cu inch V8 would work fine. Curious
I continually stew over a V8 installation, purely for the noise!!!
IIRC, the original diesel that yours is based on was exactly the same block as the petrol! When LR started considering releasing a diesel the engineers 'checked the numbers' on the petrol block and despite diesel being twice the compression ratio they reckoned the block could withstand it!
If you want a 2.25 petrol, try and source the 5 main bearing type as opposed to the 3 MB for obvious reasons.
You also said 2nd gear is a little troublesome, perhaps another leftfield idea would be a donor Disco and use both the 200/300tdi PLUS the gearbox which would give you five speeds, then just sell on whatever is left over to a LR scrappy.
Also, depending on your final engine choice you could consider swapping the Series diffs of 4.7/1 for Range Rover 3.54/1. I'm not sure but I would presume if you went donor Disco route those diffs MAY fit as well, halfshafts may require changing depending on the number of splines.
There's also the option of front brake disc conversion or perhaps swapping the SWB 10" drums for the LWB 1 ton 11" drums but I'm not sure how easy that is to fit.
A lot would depend on your level of spanner wielding, which already sounds far ahead of my own!
Good luck!
That would be a great job if I could pull it all off but I think it’s a little beyond my abilities unfortunately!
I have an Australian Army 6 cylinder, which has a lovely sound and a tad more power than the 4 cylinder. Oil changes shouldn’t be neglected and it can’t be abused like the 4 cylinder but it’s much more refined and interesting!
This is what attracts me to the idea of a 6-pot but before I jump into a conversion I’m going to try and fix my own block.
@@restosaga exactly what I was thinking. It’s a Landrover after all! I hope you get lots more miles out of it. It’s a really nice rig by the way.
Thank you very much! Exactly, they’re usually all a bit rough and ready
Hi, I am currently facing the same topic.
I have a worn out 2.25 diesel, and was looking at all the options.
To be honest I have decided to go with the 2.5l petrol cause of the power and how easy it is to swap.
I was able to find two for a reasonable price here in Ireland in a matter of 1 week.
And the good part is that the 2.5 has the hardend valves which allows unleadded petrol.
All you need to chnage is the trottle linkage and the exhaust wich is available from Steve Parkers.
The electrics is a easy job.
Cheers
Nice one! The 2.5 petrol is very appealing. Was there a lot of electrical work involved for you?
@@restosaga Well I havent started yet, but all you need is a ACC wire for the ignition coil and the Carburettor solenoid. Just make sure that they are are still live during cranking. I cant think of anything else. Of course you need to have a mechanical fuel pump, but you can use the one from a 2.25 petrol.
Excellent!
I have a 2.5 petrol also, but with 2.25 manifolds + exhaust. For electrics the stater solenoid is on the starter, so may need wiring extended if yours is by air filter
Oh and you need a ignition switched + for your coil, gues you could use wire that goes to the injector stop solenoid - if the 2.25D has that (?)
Would you not be concerned that you will loose it's originality if you move from the 2.25D ?.. If it's there 8 years, why not consider leaving it as is, put a repair additive in the radiator and see how that goes. My opinion keep it orginal the best you can.
Thanks, I agree, really would prefer to keep it original as long as possible, a radiator additive isn’t a bad idea!
yes orginal is best ,
I think you’re right. Still looking into fixing the original block...
Can you not get it cold stiched
Access is very difficult and would probably need the engine out plus finding someone local who does it. I used epoxy steel in the end, seems to be holding well so far!
I have a series 2a with a 3.5 v8 with range rover diffs and I can get about 20 mpg that's about the same mpg as standard plus twice the power
Sounds ideal, thanks, food for thought!
did you do the conversion? ive got a 2a swb with no engine and found a range rover 3.5 v8 for a $300 AUD. its very tempting, but im scared on how much it will set me back
Nice one! No, I haven’t started to the engine yet, been working on the front axle instead. Video soon!
what about 1 uzfe ? v8
Love the idea of Toyota reliability!
cummins 4bt squeezed into it would certainly be interesting and really cool. Although thats a big swap needed
That would really shift down the road!
I also have a 2.25 gas and a 2.25 turbo along with a buick 215 pre rover v8 which would be cool
2.25 turbo sounds like fun!!
Hi put a Sherpa 300 . 2 and a half Diesel in mine has been running for years.
Was the Sherpa swap easy to do?
there is a company in the us that makes a repair its called por 15 products check it out may help to seal block
Thanks! I’ll have a look!
I would say to fix it yourself personally, a v8 would look amazing, lots of work though. thank you for the video!
Thanks, looking for plenty of feedback on this one. As you say, a V8 would be amazing but a huge undertaking at the same time. Glad you enjoyed it!
Restosaga Workshop v8 sounds nice, but they: high maintenance, you'll have to butcher your nice original vehicle to fit it, you'll break your tranny/diff sooner or later. Also your brakes need to be upgraded. If you don't do many miles: 2.25 or 2.5 petrol is the nicest to live with
A 2.5 petrol is a top option! Yes, V8 does seem to be a lot of work
something wrong with te engine with 20 mile to gallon . my 2.25 diesel gets 30 mpg . well you could use a 2.25 petrol block with you diesel parts
To be fair, it hasn’t been opened or had any major work since it was new so it’s probably due a rebuild haha
Have you made a decision on the course of action?
You could mechanically repair that cracked block - a "metal stitch" repair would probably the most effective. Having done this myself, it does require a great deal of time and care, but usually results in a far more reliable repair than welding. That said, if you go down the route of engine out, strip down etc.. then have a look into laser welding, it doesn't need the pre-heating and doesn't put great amounts of heat into the casting.
If that were mine, I'd certainly be doing a metal stitch repair, but don't dismiss products like "K-Seal" or "Radweld" which can actually do the job long term for a minor leak.
Thanks for your comment Phillip and thanks for watching also! At the moment my plan is the keep the engine I have and when I have the wing off for painting I will lightly die-grind out the crack and drill it at both ends before filling it with JB Weld. I have found someone who could weld it but access may be an issue for them.
Love your videos and FB posts by the way, keep up the good work!
@@restosaga I'm sure that will last just fine, and if it doesn't it's not so permanent that you haven't got other options. Glad you enjoy my posts, I always enjoy following other Land Rover projects too. Good luck with the repair.
Thanks! Yes, that is my thinking too. All the best
I could be wrong here but I believe the cast iron blocks had a tendency to be porous when originally cast so they were treated with some sort of resin. I'd be interested if anyone has any information about this. The land rover should really be kept original. Can't believe I'm saying this but considering what I've said and the small nature of the leak I'd put some radweld in it while no one was looking and deny ever having done so.
Haha, it’s not an unreasonable suggestion Fred, thanks. I’m not sure regarding resin coating, interesting!
@@restosaga It wasn't a coating, it was pressurised and driven into the porosity. I believe they had quite a lot of porous casting during manufacture, I think it was a common practice with castings..
Thanks, did not know this!
Especially since it's an occasional driver, patch it to buy time when other parts of the motor need repairs, and yank it then.
Definitely agree with this. Have patched it now and it has held well for about 2 years. Engine running perfectly still, I wonder if the repair will hold until major work is needed?!
Its very common for the 3 main bearing blocks to crack...this is why they brought out the 5 main bearing...if it was me i would just repair that block if the engines good...
Thanks! Did not know that actually! Yes, think I’ll repair the block as the rest of the engine is fine
has anyone tried adding a Cummins?
I’m sure someone has done it!
@@restosaga Ive seen a group of Land Rovers with converted Cummins engines. I wish there were more modern engines one can use for a Series swap. Mine barely hits 65 with the Roamer.
A blown big block chevy would be the way to go.......Imagine how much time you could save.....
Would certainly give some shove, but not sure the gearbox would appreciate it haha
I bought a 2.25 diesel series 3 with a view to changing it to a petrol. But I really love the 2.25 diesel, it really suits the Landy character. So I bought a later 5 bearing block and transferred the head over. The 200 tdi should just drop in, no need to move the radiator or modify the bulkhead. But if you get one of the more plentiful Disco engines the turbo is mounted down low and you'll need to get one of the conversion kits to join the to the exhaust. And also you are pretty much doubling the power and feeding that all through the back axle in normal use - there's a reason that Land Rover went full time 4x4. If the tdi is the route you want to take, you might want to consider fitting the LT77 gearbox as well. But then you'll still have the UJs in the front axle..... The 300 tdi would involve some trickery with engine mounts. Both tdi conversions, and the 2.5 na (12J), would mean moving the battery. And don't consider a 19J turbo diesel!!! Like you, I like the idea of the old 6 cylinder though, and if I see a decent one at a reasonable price I might be tempted. Hope that helps. If I were you though, I'd just put in some decent radweld type stuff and see what happens! Hope that helps!
Thanks Stuart, a very comprehensive reply! At the moment I think I will try and use some JB-Weld to repair the crack and go from there. Cheap and nasty yes but for all the miles I do I think it's best. Plus, my mechanic skills would not cover a complex conversion I feel! Watch this space!
Hi Stuart very interesting reply I have just bought a defender90 with a 19j engine what is the issue with those im thinking of replacing it with 300tdi but would like to know why 19j has such a bad name
@@normandbeaches3496 Land Rover made changes to the 12J to help it cope with the extra stresses from the turbo, but not enough! IIRC a lot of them never made it to 100K (mine didn't), they start to breathe heavily, and the oil starts to clog the air filter. I think that cracked pistons and heads were common faults. The older Land Rover diesels don't rev, I found that the turbo just got you to the end of that rev range sooner (maybe taller gearing may have helped?). The TDIs in contrast are excellent, especially when you consider that they are the same basic engine design (though only the crankshaft was carried over). Maybe if your 19J has been looked after (and I guess it must have been to make it this far), and you continue to look after it all could be good. But if you upgrade to a TDI you won't look back. I even prefer the TDI to the TD5!
We use Belzona to repair engine block defects. A bit more professional than JB weld or Chemical metal. 👍
Thanks Mark, I’ll look into this!
great vid,ive had landrovers since 1983.oops showing my age! desiels ,petrols .straight 6 ..i wouldnt go for the 6 pot hun, a lot of work putting it in ,weighs a ton! tbh not much more power than a 4 cly petrol, even if you could find one. the parts are crazy price!..they have their origins in the 1950s, inlet valves overhead , exhaust side valve ,and they love going thru head gaskets! ive a 4 cly petrol , just a weber carb on .low miles 47k ,so goes ok , a 9 to 1 head is next on list ,i think yr best plan is a tdi to be on safe side....but on the wild side a v8 or ford v6 !!. but getting a "good" one is very expensive these days
Thanks! A very comprehensive answer!!!
Also an Essex v6 is a great engine
Yes, that would be a really cool conversion!
Restosaga Workshop I have just bought a Steve Parker’s conversion plate myself. Saving up for an engine. The 3.0 is awesome. Put RRC diffs in and you can cruise well with modern traffic. Plus still achieve 25mpg. No bulk head modifications either . Just got to get the engine myself and I’ll upload a UA-cam video on it. Will probably be in the new year now once I have my garage .
Thanks, I’ll keep an eye out for your video!
A 300tdi discovery engine would be good, we used to have a series 3 with that engine
Quite a few suggestions in support of this idea, thanks!!
No problem
Cold stitching
Thanks
@@restosaga are you aware what cold stitching is.. very few people do it these days
300 tdi more readily available along with parts
The 300tdi really seems to have taken off recently as a conversion option. I think we must be running out if 200tdis! Thanks!
Did a 2.6 into 88, didn't like it. Heavy, Thirsty and doesn't rev. Repaired a split block with special welding rods, easiest welding I've ever done. Run about and inch, peen it with a small hammer, weld another inch in another spot, peen repeat until damage repaired.
TDi 200 bolts straight onto the series gear box ( the 2.6 doesn't unless it was a 2ltre engine box, nor does the TDi 300
). Disco unit will need a scallop put into top of chassis to accommodate the turbo, defender unit the turbo is up high. Get the radiator and inter cooler from donor vehicle, with a little tin work it will replace your current rad. Very easy conversion, but will take three times as long as you first thought.
3.5 V8 you need to find a conversion kit. A little tin work on the chassis, nothing major. V8 radiator fits between chassis rails, carefull of the steering relay. 109 brakes, servo of some sort and you are sorted. Pull away gently in first, drop into second and hold onto your hat. A good series gearbox will take gentle power as will the half shafts but if you plant your right foot more work is needed.
Thanks Robert, a very comprehensive answer that covered a lot of my questions!
If you have a large budget, want to completely future-proof it and want the best performance, reliability and comfort, have a think about an electric conversion. Netgear Hyper9 and Nissan Leaf motors seem to be good options with better performance than a Tdi, but having that torque from 0-10,000 rpm. There are a few websites, Facebook groups and professional companies doing it and getting superb results, but it’s not cheap.
Don’t bother with a 19J - they crack their heads and pistons. The 12J is pretty robust, though. The Tdis are better, though a bit noisy. The Glencoyne mounts really help with that on the 200. You don’t need any mods to brakes, suspension or transmission. They’re not bigger engines, they just have more ancillaries, and they only damage the transmission if you drive like an idiot.
Thanks Nick, a comprehensive comment! I’m not sold on EVs just yet, not a perfected technology I feel. Appreciate your input re the other diesel options though, thanks! Watch this space!
@@restosaga, I changed my 109 to a 19J in 1993, then a 12J (because the 19J was scrap), then a 200Tdi (Discovery engine with Defender manifolds and turbo, best combination for a couple of reasons). You can take a look at some of how it was done on my blog, but since I already had the Stage 1 bonnet because the clowns who installed the 19J said they needed the space and I was too much of a novice to know better, fitting the rad and intercooler would be different for you if you keep the short bonnet (recommended). Www.nickslandrover.co.uk
Thanks Nick, that’s helpful, I’ll have a look at your blog, I think I’ve been on it before!
4bt Cummins good swap in Africa we put Isuzu 2.8td
Nice one! Quite like the idea of staying with a Land Rover engine but that is tempting!
@@restosaga the straight 6 all the way very good smooth engines
So I believe! They seem to be hard to get parts for and heavy too though sadly
@@restosaga then weld your block keep it original use a stick welder with cast iron rods believe me it will work
Thanks, repair is best for me I think
Aparrt from the cam belt driven water pump the Peugeot XUD is a very good engine. Turbo ones are pokey and all mechanical. I think the N/A version was fitted to Suzuki SJ's at some point so there may be suitable 4x4 transmission bits available.
I’d never thought of a Pug lump, interesting! Think I’ll try and fix my block first, before I drop a new engine in.
Money no option electric. Failing that a 2.25 petrol
Haha, hadn’t thought of electric! Petrol does give a lot of tuning options for sure
Interesting choices. Personally I’d go as close to original as possible but that’s because I think provenance of old Landies is important. My 1973 2.25 SWB petrol is my daily driver on the original engine and although maybe a touch thirsty it just makes me smile with its chugging sound and simplicity. I’m sure you’ll do a cracking job whichever way you go. Looking forward to finding out 👍🏻🍻
Thank’s Tony, watch this space!
Some of the sensible conversions (we will ignore the cummins6BT and Perkins combine engines for now) I have seen are:
The perkins Prima 2.0(fitted to freight rovers and the austin montego/maestro) was the engine of choice before 2/300 TDI became easily available
Peugeot 2.5 TD from an LDV 400
Peugeot 1.9 XUD9 from pretty much any 90's peugeot /citroen
A 200DI (200TDI but with the turbo removed) works very well and won't overpower the transmission but will give you a good usable vehicle
Daihatsu 2.8 out of a fourtrak, it would require a new gearbox and transfer box though
a variety of Nissan engines but they require parts that are no longer available.
Thank you! I think if I'm going for a new lump then it will be a Land Rover one, likely 200DI as you say. Probably will try to repair the block first though.
@@restosaga If you drill the ends to stop the crack spreading you could braze it to fill the gap
Yes, I heard this actually, something I think I could manage. Thanks!
The thing to be aware of is that there are many different versions of the Perkins diesel, particularly in 4.236 form. If I was to go down that route, I'd get one from a Dodge 50 van, as it's an automotive version which revs to around 3,100 rpm with max. power around 2,800 rpm. It's very similar to the one Leyland South Africa fitted in the Series IIIS (that was a licence-built Perkins 4.236 known as the Atlantis ADE 236), only they used a Santana gearbox and 109 V8 differentials. Certainly, one from an agricultural or marine application is totally unsuitable, but a lot of people have fitted those which is why they are seen not to work in Land Rovers. You wouldn't fit the Mercury Marine version of the 2.25 diesel to a Land Rover would you?
Repair and keep it original.....!
This option has proved popular with more viewers than I had thought it would, thanks Kenneth!
I would change it for 300 TDI go to Steve Parkers he put all the information you need
Thanks Roger, I’ll look into this!
If its only leaking very little....put some bars leak or rad weld into it and let it be till and see how it goes.
If it gives up the ghost....get a 2.25p engine....with the price of derv....the 2.25d makes no sense.
Or do what I did.....buy an old Disco....mk 1 is best....get its 200 engine and bin the rest....good scrap prices at the moment.
Take off the TURBO....its not needed.....no ned to change much under the bonnet.....keep the std rad.....the battery and oil bath air cleaner can stay were thy are after altering the batt carrier.
The 200di wont wreck your gearbox.
Most important.....put anti freeze in it.
Thanks, I think a 200di sounds good. I’ve patched with JB Weld and it’s holding well for now
just get a cold stitch crack repair done on the block, get a proper repair done on it
I agree, this is the way to go. Need to find someone local to do it and price it though! Will keep you all posted!
@@restosaga last time I saw that done was on S.O.S when they rebuilt a 1938 MG with a cracked block..
may be a good start in finding somone..
ua-cam.com/video/aEsKJZORDbk/v-deo.html
Thank you!
Keep it Land-Rover! 200 Tdi or 300 Tdi.
Too right, hard to pass these engines by
@@restosaga Go for the 200tdi if you can it's the better of the two
It does seem to be the more common conversion
wake up use the 2.850 lit HOLDEN MOTOR works brilliant does not bust trans. good feul ,,good get up and go
Sounds good but wouldn’t be too easy to find one of those lumps here in NI!
LR 2.5 NA diesel engine.
That would require very little extra work to install in my Landy as it is at present, I like it!
Use a TDI engine..
Golf 2.0 TDI perfect
Golf engine is a new one on me! Interesting!!
The Rover 6 was a dog. Not much more power and torque than the 4, very thirsty and prone to burning exhaust valves.
They definitely don’t get a good reputation but they make a great sound!
Tvr v8
Now there’s an idea! They were a Rover V8 weren’t they? Would be brilliant!
V8
Would love to! Fear the installation fabrication may be beyond me though sadly.
I did my series 2. I used a rover v8 engine out of a p6. Use two drivers side manifolds or P6 manifolds that exit straight down. A slight modification to the bulkhead for access to the spark plugs, a Philips bellhousing adapter, range rover flywheel, series 2 rad with extra row of cooling core, mod your series 3 engine mounts, didn't have to touch the battery tray. Use RR classic diffs or 200 TDI, and lwb 109 front breaks. 24 MPG. All simple spanering. Have fun.
You make it sounds quite manageable! Thanks!
Personally, if I was going to go through the trouble of an engine swap I would instal a GMC 4-53 diesel. Worth it just for the sound.
ua-cam.com/video/kmQWVerLllI/v-deo.html
Very impressive!!!
Just throw it away and buy a Land Cruiser.
Seems a little drastic...