For new viewers, I reviewed the comments, sumnarised here 1) Cooking oil as a release agent got a lot of mentions. 2) Needed the sides of the inner plug to be sloped inwards for ease of removal. 3) Use a concrete edge finisher tool on the top edge before it sets. 4) the water channels on the bottom are way too small. They need to be bigger to stop being clogged over time. 5) Some wire for reinforcement may be a good idea at the bottm and at various levels 6) Vibration on outside for better bubble removal, as you mentioned. 7) Plastic tape on all inner corners for smooth edges, and tape over all the drainage molding strips. 8) no need for bottom inner mold bottom. Just level the first few inches and then set the inner walls on top. Nothing like practice for perfection : -)
All REALLY good suggestions. Always keep in mind what separates a “Pro” from a “Joe”: The “Pro” already got a lot of mistakes out of the way. That’s why pro’s get paid. You pay them for the mistakes you didn’t have to make on your own. Nobody hits the ground “just knowing”. Everybody learns.
@@burnerjack01 With YT nobody has to be a "Joe" anymore! In fact with YT one can often do things better than the average Pro, including making this planter, if one studies all the comments diligently. Thanks to all concerned!
Indeed, its refreshing to see a video from someone who is not an expert and is showing all the issues he faced as well.so much more helpfull to prepare for the challenges trying this out as well.
Most comments are spot on about tapering, oiling, finishing. I would add perlite to the concrete mix to make a lighter planter and you might consider adding some type of wood shape inside each outside panel to make an inset on each side to also reduce weight and make the planter much nicer to look at. Lets face it an empty planter should be light enough to move around and position where you want it.
Thank you for an "honest" video. It's encouraging, a lot less intimidating. A lot of videos are made where we don't see the first try or that a better method can be used. Thank you for that. I'm much more inclined to try and mould a planter now because the pressures off. Nothing wrong at all with Wondermen ... But all too often they're not around! 😆
Melamine for your frame works wonders when it's time to release the mold from the concrete. It's a little pricey, but saves a lot of time foe the project. Your container looks great!
Nice planter. Just a note, if you wipe oil (any kind), or spray with PAM cooking spray, or line the inside with plastic - the concrete won't stick to your mold. Hope that helps.
I've watched other videos, it doesn't work. The concrete probably just absorbed the oil in and then stick to the wood. Everyone who used oil still had to fight to get the mould off. Imho, if you're ok with plastic bag fold Mark's the best thing would be to line the mould with some cheap tarp or maybe even self adhesive carpet protectors that you lay on carpets for painting and decorating.
Great Job Teddy. I know how much those planters can cost. You'd have so much more pride in making your own no matter the outcome. It looked great and for those of us just starting out it's very informative. A lot of people near my home dump old things on their nature strips. Recycling their rubbish is a fantastic idea
I liked your video because you show the little worries, matter or situation , that we, beginners sometimes need to dealt with, in making this arts, and overcome. Thanks
I used vaseline as mold release and it worked great! You could taper your inner box similar to a draft angle. Even 10* of an angle would make it easier to back out. Great video!
sean christian Your right. I wondered how everyone missed that the entire issue was the draft angle of the inner box. At 90 degrees it would almost be impossible to pull out.
I loved your video. I can't believe how snarky so many of the the comments have been. One of the greatest things about a diy video is the helpful and informative comments sent in that we all can learn from. That's why we read them. Thank you for making this video.
THANK YOU TED! It's BEAUTIFUL; REALLY. I THINK IT'S AWESOME AND FOR A FIRST TIME ATTEMPT . . . WOW! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING TIME TO SHARE! I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME AND EFFORT. IT'S A GREAT "LEARNING" EXPERIENCE FOR ME.
I've been watching UA-cam how to make large pots instead of wood on the bottom put some sand on the bottom get it damp with water then add cement the thickness that you want . Take a pvc pipe push it through the bottom then pull it out . now you have hole for the drainage I loved your video thank you .
I think you did exceedingly well considering all the problems that occurred toward the end. You were cool, calm and connected, and resolved the issues. The plant pot looks great, and altho I don't plan on making anything near as large this summer with cement, your issues with the pot allows us all to learn from them. You did well; altho I'm not an expert in cement projects, I'm merely a portrait artist, I thought the video was super. Thank you for sharing your work of art. :)
@@sabel146 I don't remember ever watching this video, but obviously I did. I admire people who at least try to make, create or do something they've never tried before, and in this guy's case he did an excellent job for a first attempt. It's amazing what we can do if we try. :)
Wipe the surfaces down with waste oil next time, that is what we used on wooden forms for concreting. With the innerbox make the sides overlap the base and not the base over lapping the sides and affix with screws so you can unscrew from the inside. Only need the inner form for the first few hours, no more than 24. The other you can leave for a bit longer if wanted. Nice work.
Man, people in the comments need to learn humility, not everyone is an expert and everyone has to start somewhere. Someone will know more than you in something so don't be douchebags with what you do know. Anyway, thanks for the vid :D Not making a planter but definitely gave me an idea on making cement molds. Cheers!
5 років тому+3
Lance Uppercut yep everyone’s an expert but non of them make videos 😁
Your thoughts are kind. But I do appreciate seeing him work through his first attempts, with the glitches - then hear the others pitch in. It's like being among friends.
When you make the next one make the inner box tapered and only let it stay in there a few hours, the bottom width both directions about a half inch smaller than the top. By tapping on it a little and pulling it up it should pop free and slide out. The concrete will have set up enough to hold its shape. Also on the strips of wood for the bottom, taper them as well just a little bit and they will pop out pretty easy too, on these the bottom will be wider than the top, 1/8th inch should do the trick. You should also be able to deform the outside after a couple days. No need to wait a week. Looking Good!
Ya, this guy's saw only cuts at a 90 deg angle. He really needs to learn about champher. (I need to learn to spell). Should have put a triangular molding (90/45/45 degrees) at inner corners so inner plywood comes out parallel to adjoining sheet (no overlapping). Molding is lost with each cast but ply is not. Would have dressed up the outside as well, top corners...
@@joewilliams7783 Not even that hard, you just need to learn how to check spelling with google (just type the word however garbled into the search box and hit return😂 the correct spelling will appear)
I have watched millions of learning videos since 2006 and am subbed to thousands of channels,you've definitely created one of the most informative videos I've seen. I'm going to do exactly what you did but I'm going to built it for a safe
Here is a tip for you. Oil all forms first. Car wax works well too. Use hinges on form bottoms then tape over them to prevent leakage. Remove tape, let’s air in to break the vacuum, hinge makes it super easy to remove bottom without breaking forms. Reuse!
Used engine oil or vegetable oil can be used as a release agent. You can also make a slurry of mortar mix like a sandy latex paint and brush it over the outside to fill the air pockets, or if you want it smoother a similar "paint" of portland cement and water will work as well.
This is very similar to forming the sump pit in the floor of an elevator shaft. Next time just eliminate the bottom form of the inner box all together. Pour the bottom and just let that set up for a few minutes, then continue pouring the sides. Or use a solid block of styrofoam for the inside form. Any solvent like gasoline will dissolve the styrofoam. No smoking!
That sounds hideously environmentally damaging. But styrofoam is disgusting stuff possibly best burnt, else it's indestructible and will probably end up floating in some ocean
Hi teddy. Good idea. I build catch basins for syorm drsins. I cut my forms into pieces beforehand to make easy to strip. Cleat togather. It works well, and you can reuse your forms.
I worked at a pre cast concrete product manufacturer temporarily, I'm not an expert, anyway we used cooking oil in a chemical spray bottle, like you use for weed killer but industrial (metal) instead of pumping it we used a compressor to pressurize to lube the forms and molds. We were making bulk products, a plastic sprayer might be fine for your needs We inserted desired lengths of metal rods immediately after pooring the forms, much thinner than rebar. We had a hand held electric vibrator we simply held to the forms make sure it settles in, fills all areas properly and gets the air bubbles out. I enjoyed my brief introduction to making precast concrete products.
you could also use a masonry disc on an angle grinder to get the concrete "bumps," but much better to float the top with a trowel after filling with concrete. Also, a thin rebar length should be used to get the bubbles out, like in the old days.
You did Great ! One piece of Advise .. Use spray on veggie oil or a light oil base on the porous Wood to keep the Concrete from sticking Makes removing the Forms So much easier . Nice work . It’s a Labor of love to make a Planter like this ❤ 🏡 🪴
I like that you share what didn't go as you expected, and what you planned to try differently in the future....y'know, like what the rest of us actually experience. . .! :-)
Nice job on the video. I’m considering building a mold also and found your step by step very helpful. Thank you for sharing, lessons learned, etc. cheers!
Motor oil works the best for making sure surfaces don't adhere to the concrete. I have approached local mechanics and asked for some used oil and they were happy to give it away.
Some 1/2" schedule 40 pvc is a cheap way to move almost any heavy smooth surface object. I moved a 1100 lbs safe across my garage with two sticks of schedule 40 1/2" one handed ....nice video. thanks and a cheap orbital sander cheapest one you can find will get air bubbles off the form surface...
next time use some perlite and vermiculite and peat moss mixed with the concrete that will make the planter lighter and will have a cool finish....another suggestion ...do the planter filling on four steps...so you can move it to the forever place. nice job.
I built some planters 4'x4'x 2'6",on my lawn at the edge of my patio for some reasonable sized fruit trees. Being right near the sea and sandwiched by a lake half a mile behind, the ground isn't the most solid and they needed a raft type footing according to the very young planner guy who also gave me some tips.Being a bit old fashioned and an automotive electronics tech by trade,so not knowing any different assumed that because his of young age that when he said feet he meant meters. Incidentally I built these massive footings about 3 times their required size according to the bricklayer who was building our shed, I didn't tell my wife😁 they haven't moved though.
What is a "reasonable sized fruit tree"?😂 Or what would be an un-reasonable sized fruit tree? Is your house called Mar-a-Lago? I think that is the rationale for the name of Trump's place
Fiber reinforcement is just fiberglass added to the mix to reduce cracks in the fine finishes of small projects like yours. Developed I believe, for concrete countertops to reduce small surface cracks, its used a lot in moulded ornamentals like birdbaths, fountains and planters and concrete garden art pieces.
You can use a metal grinder and a grinder (not a cut) or sand blade to shape the concrete. Good for large details. Wear safety equipment, the stuff flies everywhere.
in construction we brush the plywood with diesel before we pour concrete, for this small project you can use motor oil (for the wood to come off easily, and not stick)
I used plastic sheet over inside box and the pot was very good.For out side I used two big sheet and two small sheets and made the box by screwing each other.It It is easy to dismantle box after finishing the work.
yes I know your video is a year old but some people don't have people skills or know how to explain, but regardless u can use diesel fuel to spray on your mold's, cooking spray, there are other options as well, but you did a good my compliments sir
Well I think you did great for having no real experience being a cement finisher. You can use vegetable oil in a pesticide sprayer to spray on your forms to release the concrete when you're done letting it set. Also for the little bubbles you can take a combination Of sand, Portland, and water and use a sponge to just rub it on the surface of your planner. I would use the same recipe each time I made a new batch of rub so that it wouldn't look discolored. There's a lot of little tricks you learn if you're on the job site but that turned out really good.
When I built one of these concrete planters I did not have a bottom on the inside box. I used 2x2 in the inside corners of inside box with all the screws from the inside to make removing screws from the inside box easy and reusable to make another box. PS I used a releasing agent (vaseline) on all wood in contact with concrete.
Thanks for making this video. I especially liked those side channels at the bottom. A good idea I intend to incorporate in mine. Think I'll use styrofoam strips, though, so I can just dig them out afterwards with little fuss. Thanks again.
@@tedsbackyard The weld-mesh would push the price right up, but would make the perfect product. What would be the minimum wall thickness for that size of planter?
Inner mold: The bottom should have been inside the 4 walls, so when the 4 walls are gone, the bottom has room to move sideways. Use wooden cleats to screw inner mold together from the inside, so it can be dismantled from the inside. Top finish: Use curved edge concrete finishing tool to make rounded edged and get rid of those bumps and sharp edges. Sanding concrete? Wow, never seen that before!! Use a diamond cutter in an angle grinder to make short work of it. Use styrene foam instead of PVC pipe for drainage hole - several would be better. Styrene foam is easy to remove!
Heres my thing....why have a bottom piece for the inner box to begin with? Why not just pour the bottom (like u did), smooth it out, and then set your inner box (just 4 sides with no bottom) in place and pour the sides?
@@raulduke7142 No offense.But you guys cleare havent done any formwork before:) IF you leave the bottom out concrete will start rising up when you start tapping it for bubbles or vibrating with proper poker...You lucky if it`s dry enough concrette may not rise so much..But if it`s wet you are fucked...will keep coming up. Easiest way is to leave the bottom in but cut it in 2-3 diferent pieces...But when you do that you need to do some extra supports for bottom and braces accross...For your own garden is good enough ..otherwise i recoment puting some extra braces across the bottom and top ..All depends of size of mould..In this video he uses some table top so it`s tchiker and stronger as normal 17.5 or 18 mm playwood.SO he basicly dosn`t need any supports on outside and only fewww braces on inside..Othervise would be diferent storry
@@Laimenuxxx If the concrete is a bit looser/more watery I would guess the inner mould would float on it like a boat, and would need weighting down, maybe with some concrete breeze-blocks. But you'd have to get the wieght just right not to depress it too far
I made a planter like this 10 years ago. I used 4 bags of cement each weighing 92 lbs. after it was finished I could not move it. You better cast it where it’s going to sit forever.
When mixing mortar in the tub ,(1) put the water in first ,the amount is written on the bag,This makes it a lot easier to mix ,(2) Best bet, Mix the mortar in a bucket using an electric drill ,mortar will come out like a smoothie with less air bubbles
Fibre reinforcement refers to small strands of polymer/plastic within the mixture that interlace and act in a similar way to steel reinforcement improving the tensile capacity of the concrete. The longer the strands the better. Therefore, you could have got away with about half the thickness you used. 2" more than enough for a square aspect ratio.
Very good contribution to include fiber to the mixture, and what do you think the analysis of creating a mold that you do not have to destroy it to disassemble it, so use it always, with metal clamps and screws maybe?
Actually the fibers are not intended to replicate steel reinforcement in any way, the concrete bonds with the tiny fibers and helps to hold it together so when it cracks (and concrete always cracks) it will reduce the amount of separation. Synthetic fibers can be used to replace steel mesh, which is used for the same purpose, but neither increase the tensile strength in a marketable way.
Interesting project. Looks like you had fun with it. I think if you put some engine oil or wax on the panels it would be easier to remove. Yeah, had you removed it when it was still a bit damp you could knock down the rough edges easily. You could make it thinner and add some mesh and use the standard quikcrete mix to save some money.
A lot of sound ideas and great inspiration here! Thanks for sharing your process. How about fashioning the planter upside down in the form? I am positive there is spray on release agent made specifically for concrete forms. I’d ask a pro, but I believe melamine forms release much more easily. I would wrap my form in cling film. As for as aesthetics, I love your square project, but I would want to stick colored glass into the top edge while it was wet. I agree that the bubbles are attractive. If you needed a smooth finish, you could make a thinner concrete mix and trowel it over, like plaster on a wall. Next time, play with concrete pigments! Planters that size or heartbreakingly expensive, so I applaud this DIY endeavor!
nice video, good instructions. You missed the release agent part so the mold can be removed without being destroyed and available for future planters. Thank you Teddyd30, I learned some ideas from you, I try to make concrete planters all the time.
If you unmolded it after about a day or two, you could have used a dremel tool to round off the sharp edges and remove those little bumps...or you could have tried to avoid the bumps when concrete was still wet...and carved a little edge in after the concrete had set "just enough" (an hour or two). Grinders work great on cured concrete too....they work so well you have to be very careful not to take too much off.
Good job. Maybe 90 degree angle brackets to make the inner box, easier to just unscrew. I'd like to include a handles of sorts for the finished product. More for character than function. Steady hand with an angle grinder will shape the top nicely.
Are you thinking of the marble or porphyry basins or baths used by the ancient Romans as sarcophagi? Objects of great beauty, with annular handles sculpted in relief, for example the one in the Mausoleum of Theodoric at Ravenna (wikimedia commons File:Ravena (145).jpg ). Also the Imperial sarcophagi in Palermo Cathedral. That would be an amazing feature!
mate after a day of curing you can take the inner box easier than leaving there for a week and by the way you do not need the bottom of the box if you stabilise the inner box from the top either down and the side by nailing a timber across the top. Make sure that you use a good greasing agent or even wb40. otherwise great and trial and error is the mother or all inventations.
In future wrap the mold in moving plastic or coat it in oil so you can pull the box out and save for another mold. Also....if the planter will be in yard for example and you don't plan on moving it you wont need a bottom for that instance.
Great idea. one suggestion I would make to get rid of the air bubbles and have a much smoother finish in the absence of a proper vibrating table is to put either a very blunt or very big masonry drill bit into your drill/cordless drill and turn it onto hammer action and then simply drill into the the timber shuttering and watch the the level of concrete fly down. You have to be careful of course that you don't drill right through, which is very unlikely with a blunt or big masonry drill bit as they're obviously struggle to go through timber.
Most people who have any idea at all about casting concrete items will tell you that ...you always cast any moulded concrete project upside down .... but hey for an amateur you did fairly well
Ted! This is amazing! What do you think of the idea to build this upside down? I saw another video of a man who build one and added 4 wheels to the corners from building it upside down. I thought that was genius. This is beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
Doing it upside down you would need a very solid plank for the base, else the weight of the concrete would depress the form, and maybe interfere with the setting of the material, i.e. if it is settling / moving constantly under gravity
Awesome video! Looking back, do you think you would have tried to make it a bit thinner, maybe added some steel reinforcement? It looks great for a permanent spot, but I'm wondering if you think it could have been a bit thinner and lighter? I want to make one, but would need it to be fairly moveable. Looks great and it came out great! especially from salvaged material. Good work and thanks for video!
Hey teddyd30, I love how much effort you put in projects like this one. I hope you'll also make a video showing what you plant inside the planter: hope it'll be something cool!
For new viewers, I reviewed the comments, sumnarised here
1) Cooking oil as a release agent got a lot of mentions.
2) Needed the sides of the inner plug to be sloped inwards for ease of removal.
3) Use a concrete edge finisher tool on the top edge before it sets.
4) the water channels on the bottom are way too small. They need to be bigger to stop being clogged over time.
5) Some wire for reinforcement may be a good idea at the bottm and at various levels
6) Vibration on outside for better bubble removal, as you mentioned.
7) Plastic tape on all inner corners for smooth edges, and tape over all the drainage molding strips.
8) no need for bottom inner mold bottom. Just level the first few inches and then set the inner walls on top.
Nothing like practice for perfection : -)
Thanks!
All REALLY good suggestions.
Always keep in mind what separates a “Pro” from a “Joe”: The “Pro” already got a lot of mistakes out of the way. That’s why pro’s get paid. You pay them for the mistakes you didn’t have to make on your own. Nobody hits the ground “just knowing”. Everybody learns.
Thank you!!!!
Thank you so much, very helpful!
@@burnerjack01 With YT nobody has to be a "Joe" anymore! In fact with YT one can often do things better than the average Pro, including making this planter, if one studies all the comments diligently. Thanks to all concerned!
I love it. The bubbles and imperfections gives it a lot of character.
Indeed, its refreshing to see a video from someone who is not an expert and is showing all the issues he faced as well.so much more helpfull to prepare for the challenges trying this out as well.
I really appreciate seeing the problems in this project so people can learn from that.
That's my strength. Thanks!
Most comments are spot on about tapering, oiling, finishing. I would add perlite to the concrete mix to make a lighter planter and you might consider adding some type of wood shape inside each outside panel to make an inset on each side to also reduce weight and make the planter much nicer to look at. Lets face it an empty planter should be light enough to move around and position where you want it.
Thank you for an "honest" video. It's encouraging, a lot less intimidating. A lot of videos are made where we don't see the first try or that a better method can be used. Thank you for that. I'm much more inclined to try and mould a planter now because the pressures off. Nothing wrong at all with Wondermen ... But all too often they're not around! 😆
Glad it was helpful!
Melamine for your frame works wonders when it's time to release the mold from the concrete. It's a little pricey, but saves a lot of time foe the project. Your container looks great!
Nice planter. Just a note, if you wipe oil (any kind), or spray with PAM cooking spray, or line the inside with plastic - the concrete won't stick to your mold. Hope that helps.
Auto oil it's best
Poomkddxc
For big jobs we use ‘Form Release’ by the 55 gal drums. In the old days we used to just use diesel fuel.
@@psidvicious I just soybean oil.
I've watched other videos, it doesn't work. The concrete probably just absorbed the oil in and then stick to the wood. Everyone who used oil still had to fight to get the mould off.
Imho, if you're ok with plastic bag fold Mark's the best thing would be to line the mould with some cheap tarp or maybe even self adhesive carpet protectors that you lay on carpets for painting and decorating.
Hint: line inside with roofing felt before adding concrete, it doesn't stick! Good job!
How's that a "hint"??
You explain the whole process, there's nothing left to figure out there!!🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
@@strjourneys7919 The word "hint" is frequently misused for "tip", as you say they are two different things.
Great Job Teddy. I know how much those planters can cost. You'd have so much more pride in making your own no matter the outcome. It looked great and for those of us just starting out it's very informative. A lot of people near my home dump old things on their nature strips. Recycling their rubbish is a fantastic idea
Thanks! However, I don't recommend making one this thick if you were thinking of doing so.
Beautiful!!!! You tried something for the first time. You won!!!!
Yeah. He is a champ.!
I liked your video because you show the little worries, matter or situation , that we, beginners sometimes need to dealt with, in making this arts, and overcome. Thanks
I used vaseline as mold release and it worked great! You could taper your inner box similar to a draft angle. Even 10* of an angle would make it easier to back out. Great video!
sean christian Your right. I wondered how everyone missed that the entire issue was the draft angle of the inner box. At 90 degrees it would almost be impossible to pull out.
I loved your video. I can't believe how snarky so many of the the comments have been. One of the greatest things about a diy video is the helpful and informative comments sent in that we all can learn from. That's why we read them. Thank you for making this video.
I don't know why but I love this guy's videos. I don't even garden but these amuse me
BunnyKitKa`discard
BunnyKit
Kat
THANK YOU TED! It's BEAUTIFUL; REALLY. I THINK IT'S AWESOME AND FOR A FIRST TIME ATTEMPT . . . WOW! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING TIME TO SHARE! I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME AND EFFORT. IT'S A GREAT "LEARNING" EXPERIENCE FOR ME.
I'm glad you liked it and got something out of it!
I've been watching UA-cam how to make large pots instead of wood on the bottom put some sand on the bottom get it damp with water then add cement the thickness that you want . Take a pvc pipe push it through the bottom then pull it out . now you have hole for the drainage I loved your video thank you .
Amazing! Great job. You saved hundreds!
I think you did exceedingly well considering all the problems that occurred toward the end. You were cool, calm and connected, and resolved the issues. The plant pot looks great, and altho I don't plan on making anything near as large this summer with cement, your issues with the pot allows us all to learn from them. You did well; altho I'm not an expert in cement projects, I'm merely a portrait artist, I thought the video was super. Thank you for sharing your work of art. :)
@@sabel146 I don't remember ever watching this video, but obviously I did. I admire people who at least try to make, create or do something they've never tried before, and in this guy's case he did an excellent job for a first attempt. It's amazing what we can do if we try. :)
Thank you for this video! I’m going to do this around 2 tree trunks in my lawn. Wish me luck ❤
Wipe the surfaces down with waste oil next time, that is what we used on wooden forms for concreting.
With the innerbox make the sides overlap the base and not the base over lapping the sides and affix with screws so you can unscrew from the inside. Only need the inner form for the first few hours, no more than 24. The other you can leave for a bit longer if wanted.
Nice work.
Man, people in the comments need to learn humility, not everyone is an expert and everyone has to start somewhere. Someone will know more than you in something so don't be douchebags with what you do know. Anyway, thanks for the vid :D Not making a planter but definitely gave me an idea on making cement molds. Cheers!
Lance Uppercut yep everyone’s an expert but non of them make videos 😁
@ Down this way, we call them the "hurlers on the fence". What they wouldn't do if only they were on the field, wouldn't be worth doing!
Well said
Your thoughts are kind. But I do appreciate seeing him work through his first attempts, with the glitches - then hear the others pitch in.
It's like being among friends.
The ones who are talking they can't even lift a paper bag much less make a pun wheel
When you make the next one make the inner box tapered and only let it stay in there a few hours, the bottom width both directions about a half inch smaller than the top. By tapping on it a little and pulling it up it should pop free and slide out. The concrete will have set up enough to hold its shape. Also on the strips of wood for the bottom, taper them as well just a little bit and they will pop out pretty easy too, on these the bottom will be wider than the top, 1/8th inch should do the trick. You should also be able to deform the outside after a couple days. No need to wait a week. Looking Good!
Ya, this guy's saw only cuts at a 90 deg angle. He really needs to learn about champher. (I need to learn to spell). Should have put a triangular molding (90/45/45 degrees) at inner corners so inner plywood comes out parallel to adjoining sheet (no overlapping). Molding is lost with each cast but ply is not. Would have dressed up the outside as well, top corners...
@@joewilliams7783 Not even that hard, you just need to learn how to check spelling with google (just type the word however garbled into the search box and hit return😂 the correct spelling will appear)
I have watched millions of learning videos since 2006 and am subbed to thousands of channels,you've definitely created one of the most informative videos I've seen.
I'm going to do exactly what you did but I'm going to built it for a safe
Yeah, this one is way too thick and heavy...
@@tedsbackyard Solid-looking is good! Maybe not so practical
The weak point of a safe is the lock
Here is a tip for you. Oil all forms first. Car wax works well too. Use hinges on form bottoms then tape over them to prevent leakage. Remove tape, let’s air in to break the vacuum, hinge makes it super easy to remove bottom without breaking forms. Reuse!
Thank you! I love that you showed what worked and what didn’t work so well. This was a lot of help.
Used engine oil or vegetable oil can be used as a release agent. You can also make a slurry of mortar mix like a sandy latex paint and brush it over the outside to fill the air pockets, or if you want it smoother a similar "paint" of portland cement and water will work as well.
This is very similar to forming the sump pit in the floor of an elevator shaft. Next time just eliminate the bottom form of the inner box all together. Pour the bottom and just let that set up for a few minutes, then continue pouring the sides. Or use a solid block of styrofoam for the inside form. Any solvent like gasoline will dissolve the styrofoam. No smoking!
That sounds hideously environmentally damaging. But styrofoam is disgusting stuff possibly best burnt, else it's indestructible and will probably end up floating in some ocean
Hi teddy.
Good idea.
I build catch basins for syorm drsins.
I cut my forms into pieces beforehand to make easy to strip.
Cleat togather.
It works well, and you can reuse your forms.
I will try that next time! Thanks!
I worked at a pre cast concrete product manufacturer temporarily, I'm not an expert, anyway we used cooking oil in a chemical spray bottle, like you use for weed killer but industrial (metal) instead of pumping it we used a compressor to pressurize to lube the forms and molds. We were making bulk products, a plastic sprayer might be fine for your needs We inserted desired lengths of metal rods immediately after pooring the forms, much thinner than rebar. We had a hand held electric vibrator we simply held to the forms make sure it settles in, fills all areas properly and gets the air bubbles out. I enjoyed my brief introduction to making precast concrete products.
You sound like more of an expert than me! I'll follow your tips next time. Thanks!
Looks fantastic. If you wanted to make several the same you could construct out of marine ply and re-use the formwork.
It is the alkalinity of concrete that destroys plywood, not the water. Paint the inside with 50/50 bondo and oil based paint to get up to 100 uses.
Love it. I'll try this but I'll remove the mold sooner. Thank you for making this video
You're welcome! This was my first time making something out of concrete. I'd make it thinner next time and use some reinforcing wire mesh.
you could also use a masonry disc on an angle grinder to get the concrete "bumps," but much better to float the top with a trowel after filling with concrete. Also, a thin rebar length should be used to get the bubbles out, like in the old days.
Hey, we use to build houses with concrete forms. We sprayed the forms with diesel oil and the forms would peel right off the concrete.
wow..does oil not damage concrete??
Me thinking like this
And you get a house with a perfume of diesel😂
You did Great !
One piece of Advise ..
Use spray on veggie oil or a light oil base on the porous Wood to keep the Concrete from sticking
Makes removing the Forms So much easier .
Nice work .
It’s a Labor of love to make a Planter like this ❤ 🏡 🪴
You did a really nice job with this project, and I'm sure you saved a ton of money!
I like that you share what didn't go as you expected, and what you planned to try differently in the future....y'know, like what the rest of us actually experience. . .! :-)
Nice job on the video. I’m considering building a mold also and found your step by step very helpful. Thank you for sharing, lessons learned, etc. cheers!
Cool Planter!! Makes me think I might be able,to do it too!!
Great video! Great Planter and a lot of great ideas come out of this project, thank you for sharing!!
You are so welcome! Glad I can inspirte
Great job, simplicity works. I learned something. Thank you
Motor oil works the best for making sure surfaces don't adhere to the concrete. I have approached local mechanics and asked for some used oil and they were happy to give it away.
Some 1/2" schedule 40 pvc is a cheap way to move almost any heavy smooth surface object. I moved a 1100 lbs safe across my garage with two sticks of schedule 40 1/2" one handed ....nice video. thanks and a cheap orbital sander cheapest one you can find will get air bubbles off the form surface...
next time use some perlite and vermiculite and peat moss mixed with the concrete that will make the planter lighter and will have a cool finish....another suggestion ...do the planter filling on four steps...so you can move it to the forever place. nice job.
I built some planters 4'x4'x 2'6",on my lawn at the edge of my patio for some reasonable sized fruit trees. Being right near the sea and sandwiched by a lake half a mile behind, the ground isn't the most solid and they needed a raft type footing according to the very young planner guy who also gave me some tips.Being a bit old fashioned and an automotive electronics tech by trade,so not knowing any different assumed that because his of young age that when he said feet he meant meters. Incidentally I built these massive footings about 3 times their required size according to the bricklayer who was building our shed, I didn't tell my wife😁 they haven't moved though.
Some things the wife just doesn't need to know👀
What is a "reasonable sized fruit tree"?😂 Or what would be an un-reasonable sized fruit tree? Is your house called Mar-a-Lago? I think that is the rationale for the name of Trump's place
Fiber reinforcement is just fiberglass added to the mix to reduce cracks in the fine finishes of small projects like yours. Developed I believe, for concrete countertops to reduce small surface cracks, its used a lot in moulded ornamentals like birdbaths, fountains and planters and concrete garden art pieces.
A diamond tip masonry blade on an angle grinder will make short work of those high spots!
You can use a metal grinder and a grinder (not a cut) or sand blade to shape the concrete. Good for large details. Wear safety equipment, the stuff flies everywhere.
in construction we brush the plywood with diesel before we pour concrete, for this small project you can use motor oil (for the wood to come off easily, and not stick)
I used plastic sheet over inside box and the pot was very good.For out side I used two big sheet and two small sheets and made the box by screwing each other.It It is easy to dismantle box after finishing the work.
yes I know your video is a year old but some people don't have people skills or know how to explain, but regardless u can use diesel fuel to spray on your mold's, cooking spray, there are other options as well, but you did a good my compliments sir
Well I think you did great for having no real experience being a cement finisher. You can use vegetable oil in a pesticide sprayer to spray on your forms to release the concrete when you're done letting it set. Also for the little bubbles you can take a combination Of sand, Portland, and water and use a sponge to just rub it on the surface of your planner. I would use the same recipe each time I made a new batch of rub so that it wouldn't look discolored. There's a lot of little tricks you learn if you're on the job site but that turned out really good.
When I built one of these concrete planters I did not have a bottom on the inside box. I used 2x2 in the inside corners of inside box with all the screws from the inside to make removing screws from the inside box easy and reusable to make another box. PS I used a releasing agent (vaseline) on all wood in contact with concrete.
Nice video. Shows trials and errors till perfection. Well done!
Tip: if you put spray canola oil or any oil all over your wood before pouring it would have come out without a struggling. Nice job
Great planter. Thanks for sharing!
I like the air bubbles. Nice work. Thanks for being one of "us" and not a P.F.
I appreciate that! I guess they're a matter of taste. "PF"?
Thanks for making this video. I especially liked those side channels at the bottom. A good idea I intend to incorporate in mine. Think I'll use styrofoam strips, though, so I can just dig them out afterwards with little fuss.
Thanks again.
That's a smart idea. If I did another one this size, I would make the walls/base thinner and use a wire mesh inside to add strength.
@@tedsbackyard The weld-mesh would push the price right up, but would make the perfect product. What would be the minimum wall thickness for that size of planter?
Inner mold: The bottom should have been inside the 4 walls, so when the 4 walls are gone, the bottom has room to move sideways. Use wooden cleats to screw inner mold together from the inside, so it can be dismantled from the inside. Top finish: Use curved edge concrete finishing tool to make rounded edged and get rid of those bumps and sharp edges. Sanding concrete? Wow, never seen that before!! Use a diamond cutter in an angle grinder to make short work of it. Use styrene foam instead of PVC pipe for drainage hole - several would be better. Styrene foam is easy to remove!
Heres my thing....why have a bottom piece for the inner box to begin with? Why not just pour the bottom (like u did), smooth it out, and then set your inner box (just 4 sides with no bottom) in place and pour the sides?
@@raulduke7142 No offense.But you guys cleare havent done any formwork before:) IF you leave the bottom out concrete will start rising up when you start tapping it for bubbles or vibrating with proper poker...You lucky if it`s dry enough concrette may not rise so much..But if it`s wet you are fucked...will keep coming up.
Easiest way is to leave the bottom in but cut it in 2-3 diferent pieces...But when you do that you need to do some extra supports for bottom and braces accross...For your own garden is good enough ..otherwise i recoment puting some extra braces across the bottom and top ..All depends of size of mould..In this video he uses some table top so it`s tchiker and stronger as normal 17.5 or 18 mm playwood.SO he basicly dosn`t need any supports on outside and only fewww braces on inside..Othervise would be diferent storry
@keith cunningham
Thank you Keith!
@@Laimenuxxx If the concrete is a bit looser/more watery I would guess the inner mould would float on it like a boat, and would need weighting down, maybe with some concrete breeze-blocks. But you'd have to get the wieght just right not to depress it too far
I made a planter like this 10 years ago. I used 4 bags of cement each weighing 92 lbs. after it was finished I could not move it. You better cast it where it’s going to sit forever.
When mixing mortar in the tub ,(1) put the water in first ,the amount is written on the bag,This makes it a lot easier to mix ,(2) Best bet, Mix the mortar in a bucket using an electric drill ,mortar will come out like a smoothie with less air bubbles
Thanks for the info!
Taper everything to help disassembly.
Great video. Primer sealer is probably just PVA .....watered down glue 🇬🇧
Fibre reinforcement refers to small strands of polymer/plastic within the mixture that interlace and act in a similar way to steel reinforcement improving the tensile capacity of the concrete. The longer the strands the better. Therefore, you could have got away with about half the thickness you used. 2" more than enough for a square aspect ratio.
Very good contribution to include fiber to the mixture, and what do you think the analysis of creating a mold that you do not have to destroy it to disassemble it, so use it always, with metal clamps and screws maybe?
a diamond blade on an angle grinder would trim off the bumps off quickly. great project!
Actually the fibers are not intended to replicate steel reinforcement in any way, the concrete bonds with the tiny fibers and helps to hold it together so when it cracks (and concrete always cracks) it will reduce the amount of separation. Synthetic fibers can be used to replace steel mesh, which is used for the same purpose, but neither increase the tensile strength in a marketable way.
OneAxis You engineer guys amaze and astound me. Just build me one, and I will give you a masterpiece fish and planting! 😎
Wow it looks so beautiful great job
Great idea. I can now make my own at a much more affordable price.
Don't make it this thick. This was overkill. I was just showing y'all what I did.
Awesome!! I need 2. Sent my hubby the video, we will see.
Thanks! Any update???
cool video man. i like it when people try stuff / experiment and post results.
Interesting project. Looks like you had fun with it. I think if you put some engine oil or wax on the panels it would be easier to remove. Yeah, had you removed it when it was still a bit damp you could knock down the rough edges easily.
You could make it thinner and add some mesh and use the standard quikcrete mix to save some money.
Just a suggestion for smoothing your top try water and a grinder. I think that might save you time. Love the planter.
A lot of sound ideas and great inspiration here! Thanks for sharing your process. How about fashioning the planter upside down in the form? I am positive there is spray on release agent made specifically for concrete forms. I’d ask a pro, but I believe melamine forms release much more easily. I would wrap my form in cling film. As for as aesthetics, I love your square project, but I would want to stick colored glass into the top edge while it was wet. I agree that the bubbles are attractive. If you needed a smooth finish, you could make a thinner concrete mix and trowel it over, like plaster on a wall. Next time, play with concrete pigments! Planters that size or heartbreakingly expensive, so I applaud this DIY endeavor!
"spray on release agent" = gentleman's waste diesel😂
they turned out really nice!
Very neat work !! 😍👍🏻
But a lot of work for me,
Plus cost 😏
Thanks, it was nice and not boring to watch.
Great job, should have put some kind of metal reinforcement.
I love this! I am going to try this at home. Thanks!!
A grinder is fantastic for taking down the bumps and rounding the edges. Get the wheel that is made of abrasive flaps.
nice video, good instructions. You missed the release agent part so the mold can be removed without being destroyed and available for future planters. Thank you Teddyd30, I learned some ideas from you, I try to make concrete planters all the time.
You can apply used motor oil on both the outside and inner moulds for easy removal of concrete form from the woods.
If you unmolded it after about a day or two, you could have used a dremel tool to round off the sharp edges and remove those little bumps...or you could have tried to avoid the bumps when concrete was still wet...and carved a little edge in after the concrete had set "just enough" (an hour or two). Grinders work great on cured concrete too....they work so well you have to be very careful not to take too much off.
Good job. Maybe 90 degree angle brackets to make the inner box, easier to just unscrew. I'd like to include a handles of sorts for the finished product. More for character than function. Steady hand with an angle grinder will shape the top nicely.
Are you thinking of the marble or porphyry basins or baths used by the ancient Romans as sarcophagi? Objects of great beauty, with annular handles sculpted in relief, for example the one in the Mausoleum of Theodoric at Ravenna (wikimedia commons File:Ravena (145).jpg ). Also the Imperial sarcophagi in Palermo Cathedral. That would be an amazing feature!
mate after a day of curing you can take the inner box easier than leaving there for a week and by the way you do not need the bottom of the box if you stabilise the inner box from the top either down and the side by nailing a timber across the top. Make sure that you use a good greasing agent or even wb40. otherwise great and trial and error is the mother or all inventations.
Thanks for the educational video. You think it might work better if the mold surfaces were coated in stick on plastic film sprayed with Pam?
In future wrap the mold in moving plastic or coat it in oil so you can pull the box out and save for another mold. Also....if the planter will be in yard for example and you don't plan on moving it you wont need a bottom for that instance.
Gisela West unless you plant something you don’t want spreading like crazy (like bamboo)
Thanks for taking the time to show us this👍
Great idea. one suggestion I would make to get rid of the air bubbles and have a much smoother finish in the absence of a proper vibrating table is to put either a very blunt or very big masonry drill bit into your drill/cordless drill and turn it onto hammer action and then simply drill into the the timber shuttering and watch the the level of concrete fly down. You have to be careful of course that you don't drill right through, which is very unlikely with a blunt or big masonry drill bit as they're obviously struggle to go through timber.
Wouldn't even have to be a drill, just any metal rod would do, presumably. Maybe even a large nail, with the wide head serving as the hammer
Hello! maybe if you wrapped the small plastic box out better without spoiling the mold.
I loved the vase !!! Thank you for sharing your idea!
Most people who have any idea at all about casting concrete items will tell you that ...you always cast any moulded concrete project upside down .... but hey for an amateur you did fairly well
I am so doing this, thanks for the idea!
You should have sprayed cooking oil or used margarine or butter or something on the sides so you could take the concrete out easy and re-use the mold.
Great job dude.... Looks mint.. 😊
Ted! This is amazing! What do you think of the idea to build this upside down? I saw another video of a man who build one and added 4 wheels to the corners from building it upside down. I thought that was genius. This is beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
I saw the same video, but this one is a lot larger. Watch my "lessons learned" video for what I would do differently next time.
Doing it upside down you would need a very solid plank for the base, else the weight of the concrete would depress the form, and maybe interfere with the setting of the material, i.e. if it is settling / moving constantly under gravity
Awesome video!
Looking back, do you think you would have tried to make it a bit thinner, maybe added some steel reinforcement?
It looks great for a permanent spot, but I'm wondering if you think it could have been a bit thinner and lighter?
I want to make one, but would need it to be fairly moveable.
Looks great and it came out great! especially from salvaged material. Good work and thanks for video!
The weight might be an advantage i used as a barricade.
To remove air bubbles, just run a sander over it, the vibrations bring them all to the surface.
For the inner box try using a cube of Polystyrene instead
Hey teddyd30, I love how much effort you put in projects like this one. I hope you'll also make a video showing what you plant inside the planter: hope it'll be something cool!
I will. Thanks!! It'll be something cool like a Dragon Plant or a Cheeseburger Tree
Nice, sound cool! Already excited
Three or four coats of a waterborne sealer good form a decent line of plastic should prevent sticking
You can remove the inner box by igniting it and it will make good ash fertilizer for your plant.
The heat will also give you some artistically-patterned cracks😂
Nice job! Tapering the inner box would make it much easier to strip.
Wayne Power But the tapering. AARgh.
@@jimwilleford6140 Too much like rocket-science😂Nobody has explained how to do the tapering
I would like to make one myself for a pond/waterfall piece. Nice video tutorial
Nice job on the planter and on the video.
I WANTED TO MAKE TWO OF THOSE PLANTERS, BUT GEEZ TO MUCH WORK. IT LOOKS NICE!
Using motor oil works exceptionally well for sperating concrete. As others have said, rub the mold down with oil (5w20 is plenty heavy -- use gloves)!
Is that castrol GTX or shell
Good effort love the planter might try making one now.