I've got a TRX4 monster truck that commonly sees crawling and bashing on the same battery pack. That variable drag brake is just the thing it needs. Very cool.
I just have to say, your dedication to having a helicopter fly over your house in every single video reflects a level of dedication unparalleled by any other channel I've ever come across.
The logistics of it is what's so difficult. It's like orchestrating that fly-over at the beginning of the Super Bowl, but EVERY. SINGLE. DAY. It's way up at the top of the list of "things I never noticed before I plugged in a microphone and started recording videos daily."
It had never occurred to me prior to this ESC that drag brake is effectively always on. Unless you're at WOT, there's some amount of "engine braking" taking place. It's REALLY noticeable when trying to ascend with drag brake switched off. I tried to put myself in the mindset of "one who has not done this before," but I'm not that good of a... pretender? I have too much muscle memory ingrained. I cannot rewire myself for "real car mode," and adjustable drag brake rate lives inside my left index finger. Like I said-- it's an incremental improvement, doodads aside.
NIce re-view! Not sure if I'll be getting the G2 as long as the WP's are available. Same problem here. I've been pushing to reverse since Reagan was President too! My brain probably will not be able to pull to reverse. The only feature I like is the adjustable drag brake, but not something that I really need.
I just installed one of these in a crawler that I will not mention the name of lol, ok ok its an Atlas... I bought it as a builder for the fun of it, mostly so far of left over parts that I've accumulated. To the point, I have a brand new brushed Titan motor I took out of my TRX-4, which has to be better than the Rochobby motor that was in it, and I can't get the drag brake to do anything. I have every brake setting at max, using the program card, to no avail. Running a 3s and I am NOT utilizing the adjustable drag brake channel. It doesn't even try to hold. I understand if the motor is too weak to hold, but shouldn't I hear some kind of PWM when trying to hold on an incline?
If you like to brake manually, the push button reverse has something for it.. reverse throttle will always be brakes. I just got the G2, I’ll have a go and see if I like it.
The drag break feature looks like it will be a good addition, you see a lot of trucks flip over going down hill when the drag break catches and flips it tail over head but being able to turn it down would let you roll slowly sown the hill. yes the the reverse is not going to work. you are right the brain will not let you do it haha
This actually fixes the problem of short throw reverse, which is really bad idea in my opinion. But having multiple esc's will most likely be confusing as hell, I admit. Not only that, I think with current total "baby" throw trigger, I would not like the throw to be 50/50, cause then it'd be way too short both ways, fixing nothing. This G2 allows the longest possible throw=linear resolution for throttle control both ways. Pretty nice. Saw a competition, where people were like speed crawling. The track had many flat and flat-ish sections with intermittent bigger obstacles, so the were running next to trucks. Live adjustment to drag brake, could be very useful for that i think. So I guess those features will find their followers. Also dumborc radio prices will go up 😬
Have a few solid axles that trail bash and crawl and just got a G2 so looking forward to the adjustable drag brake as for the real car mode give it a try and see as same been at this for many years it may be too much for my fixed brain
Not bad for a brushed ESC. I prefer brushless when it comes to rock crawler ESCs. When I did use brushed ESCs, I liked the Carisma ARC-2 ESC over the 1080. It has more settings and a better drag brake.
Question: * the 1080 has BEC Output : Switch Mode: 6V/7.4V 3A * the G2 has BEC Output : 6V/7.4V/8.4V @ 4A, 6A So I'm about to order one just to test my fleet of brushed motors from back in the day when I was 4x4 1/10 racing (like +30 years ago). The 1080 is 48€, the G2 is 56€. Does it matter which one I order?
The G2 is a bit smoother, and has a more powerful BEC (as you noted.) But any direct power servo negates the better BEC, and unless you're using a really nice motor, I honestly don't think you'll notice the difference between the G1 and the G2. It's really close-- I'm of course ignoring Real Car Mode and switchable drag brake. I never even remember that the drag brake function exists. The cheaper (older) one (should) also comes with a program card.
So I have a question on these esc so these esc say you can run 2s down to 10t motors and 17t and up on 3s so if I'm running 5slot 16t motor will 3s be fine and 540 size my motor is
-Thats orange, haha, on video atleast on my screen. -Another great thing with the 1080 is it works in other rc cars too. I currently use it in a Citroën 2CV Tamiya rc, m05 chassis. Had it in TT02B buggy a while too. Sure double the price than 1060, but better throttle sensitivity and plenty adjustable features if one feels for it. -I do like the idea of biggger bec with bigger voltage options on the G2. -But the fact the Fusion SE is silly cheap makes it difficult to recommend :D but i will keep using 1080 for my brushed small 10th scale buggies and scale cars!
Yeah, you're really not missing much. I have the G2 installed in Jake, and by now can't even detect that initial smoothness improvement that I did in testing. Feels exactly the same. And he can turn off drag brake... but I've never done it once.
Have a question I'm new rc like I've said before. I got two traxxas slashes for Christmas kne for me one for my son. I got the ovanic liposuction and a good charger. I can not get an adapter anywhere that goes from the ovanic battery to the traxxas plug to run them. I need two of them. Where can I get them? My local hobby shop does not have then he said he would make me two it's been three weeks. I want to have fun. Before I buy a crawler I want to race a little
I see a use for the real car mode but not on a crawler. This mode would force the driver to be deliberate with reverse and on go fast cars this would be nice. So I'm not sure with how the 1080 or 1080 G2 work but on other brushless esc's I've used a double pump of the brakes results in the esc trying to go in reverse which isn't to good. However even cheap brushless escs don't have this issue, and i don't run any of my fast cars with a brushed motor. Maybe a brushed tamiya rally car could benefit?
Yeah, the old "reverse lockout" a holdover from racing classes with absolutely no reverse allowed. The G2 would honestly make a great pick for some kind of Spec class, so cars could have reverse enabled, but it would be more like (as in the name) "real" reverse. So I can see an application for it, just not in a crawler-- as we often need reverse like... RIGHT NOW.
Even for trailing, the ordinary 1080 works great; the "anti-freewheeling" feature means that you can release the trigger slowly for a gentle stop, or let it drop to neutral for an emergency stop. I suppose turning the drag brake off could increase efficiency, since the motor would never be holding back, and you could coast down hills, but really.. I can't imagine those reduce runtime very much. Plus, if you needed to stop suddenly or slow down, you'd have to pop it in reverse, which would be more violent than a drag brake anyway. Overall... I think it's a cool addition, but a bit pointless since the feature it had already is even better. :l
I don't want to pooh-pooh the new features too much, as I think they might be of use to someone, somewhere. But yeah. Trigger discipline is so ingrained into me, I'm never going to be able to pull-for-reverse, and the oddity in throttle behavior when ascending when drag brake is disabled is just too noticeable. The upside for this, at least for me, is that the G2 didn't try to do to much. The core operation is that of a 1080WP, just a little bit smoother. So I'm fine with that. They also didn't crank up the pricepoint for the "new release," so kudos to HW for that.
Hold the controller with your right hand may be easier for driving in the real car mode.😁 And I think it maybe not for crawler but for racing. It's a FB/RB mode which is better than FB and FBR.
I can genuinely see the utility of the Real Car Mode for racing, where reverse is usually banned. But I will never be able to retrain my brain to "pull for reverse." As far as my brain is concerned, this is the crawling equivalent of the backwards bicycle.
Any of the 25x25 fans, like the Hobbywing 2510 or 2507. Just be sure to note-- with a few exceptions, all of the cooling fans you'll find are basic 5V fans, so they can handle 2S-- if you're running 3S, the fan will get battery voltage and it won't be happy for long. HW does make a 12V version of the 2507, HW p/n 86080020
You sure can. The G2 just adds a couple of adjustable parameters that the G1 doesn't have (like real car mode, and a 3rd BEC setting.) Same exact card, though.
If Hobbywing would take a page out of Castle’s or ISD’s book and add a customizable throttle curve, I’d be all in! However, until that happens, I’ll stick with the ESC70 for the cheap brushed esc.
In all my years, I've never had a comparably miserable experience with an electronic object of any sort (and the Hammerhead Karoo cycling computer is counted in this, whose release and update schedule I still classify as "a debacle") as I have with the ISDT ESC70. If you are having good fortune with it, I wish you nothing but the best. I continue to regard it as lackluster hardware and utterly incompetent firmware/software. I documented my tribulations thoroughly, and have less than zero desire to personally revisit the ESC70. Man, I guess I'm still pretty sore about that one.
@@CrawlerCanyon man I’ve heard of more than a few people having issues with those, I’ve had 5 or 6 of them at this point and I’ve never had any real issues with them. The only thing that frustrated me was with the first one I tried calibrating and tuning it out in the woods, with very crappy internet connection, so it fought me tooth and nail. After heading back to the house and getting back to a solid connection, everything worked great and has continued to work perfectly fine ever since. Maybe they are hit and miss and I’ve just been lucky enough to get all the good ones, who knows. The fact that I have had no issues thus far and the fact that I can program my own throttle curve will keep me coming back to them for cheap brushed esc’s, and the same for Castle when Ive got the money to go brushless.
@@drz_rc I was a VERY early adopter, and I'm pretty sure I got one of the earliest released models-- and the app/firmware to go with it. NOTHING worked. Mine will routinely lose calibration, and the only way to get it off of "motor output disabled" is to delete the ESC from the app, start fresh, and then voila! it works. Until I power it down, then a solid 50% of the time it forgets everything again. I gave up and it sits in it's box, most likely forever.
The point of my comment was to point out the lack of throttle curve option from Hobbywing. Definitely not trying to talk ya into trying the ESC70 again. Just wish HW would add the one option that it lacks, which happens to be the one single option that keeps me from buying their products.
@@CrawlerCanyon that would definitely leave a bad taste in the mouth for sure. I think the first one I got was just about a year ago and the last one was just a few weeks ago, so just solely based on what I’ve experienced, I’d say they’ve fixed quite a bit. Something else that is actually pretty cool is the option to change its PWF, you can make it dead silent. Now that’s something I definitely wish Castle would do!
If you have a 3D printer, you can print one from this file on Thingiverse (which is what I did) www.thingiverse.com/thing:3668792 If you don't have a printer, you can buy one off of Shapeways for about 20 bucks-- which seems steep to me, but , you know, IMO. www.shapeways.com/product/B56UKCCA9/crc1021-hobbywing-quicrun-1080-wp-esc-mount-v2
@@TheMrhick92 not to sound like a salesman for 3D printers, but many (if not most) use a USB stick or SD card, so the computer isn’t really in the equation. I’m mostly too impatient for 3D printing, but you can make some really cool stuff.
Been at it too long to ever be able to "rewire" to use real car mode. Reverse is trigger forward, to the point where it's instinctive-- I don't even think about it. While I appreciate a BEC going to 8.4V, it's almost lost on me, as with each build there's one less rig running steering off of the internal BEC. I wouldn't even say direct-power servos are the future, direct-power is the now.
@@CrawlerCanyon At near 55 years old I'm used to the same but I have a purely trail rig set up with it and is odd yeah but ill give it some time before I revert to usual set up. If nothing else the adjustable drag isn't a bad idea depending on rig also
Back around 2010 I was into nitro RC’s and the trigger worked similar to real car mode ( nitro transmissions have one direction input and uses a servo to mechanically shift into reverse and trigger forward is a mechanical brake ) so people going from nitro’s to electric RC’s might find real car mode second nature, that being said it’s probably useless for electric RC’s especially crawlers which I’m mostly into since 2018
Yeah, I don't see it working in a crawler AT ALL. But I could definitely see it used in some kind of spec racing series, in place of full reverse lockout. If they started including the mode in say the 10BL120, I could see it as useful in drift cars, drag cars, etc. The functionality in brushed is seriously limited, IMO.
I sure can. I could have sworn I made a short about it, but I just spent awhile looking through my own uploads and couldn't find it. So, you know, 🤷♂️ I can put a community pic of it up tomorrow. I'm thinking about revamping it, just to make it bigger. I initially though, "oh, storage for like 12 sets of tires is plenty." I still have three bins of tires beyond what's on the rack, and the rack is jammed full.
I've got a TRX4 monster truck that commonly sees crawling and bashing on the same battery pack. That variable drag brake is just the thing it needs. Very cool.
I just have to say, your dedication to having a helicopter fly over your house in every single video reflects a level of dedication unparalleled by any other channel I've ever come across.
The logistics of it is what's so difficult. It's like orchestrating that fly-over at the beginning of the Super Bowl, but EVERY. SINGLE. DAY.
It's way up at the top of the list of "things I never noticed before I plugged in a microphone and started recording videos daily."
A downside will be all those other (unused!) receiver plugs clogging up the receiver box. I'll also stick to the 1080WP!
As one who spends most of my time on trails, I don't need adjustable drag brake.
Drag brake works by shorting the motor, I think.
It had never occurred to me prior to this ESC that drag brake is effectively always on. Unless you're at WOT, there's some amount of "engine braking" taking place. It's REALLY noticeable when trying to ascend with drag brake switched off.
I tried to put myself in the mindset of "one who has not done this before," but I'm not that good of a... pretender? I have too much muscle memory ingrained. I cannot rewire myself for "real car mode," and adjustable drag brake rate lives inside my left index finger. Like I said-- it's an incremental improvement, doodads aside.
I gotta watch more of you’re videos excellent information 👍
I just installed a Hobbywing 1080g2 and 555 13t 5 slot motor in my Vanquish Phoenix. Both fit perfectly. No cutting, No grinding required. Thanks 👍
NIce re-view! Not sure if I'll be getting the G2 as long as the WP's are available. Same problem here. I've been pushing to reverse since Reagan was President too! My brain probably will not be able to pull to reverse. The only feature I like is the adjustable drag brake, but not something that I really need.
That option is selectable 🤷♂️
You don't have to enable that gimmick. I'm gonna snip that wire off when I get one.
I just installed one of these in a crawler that I will not mention the name of lol, ok ok its an Atlas... I bought it as a builder for the fun of it, mostly so far of left over parts that I've accumulated. To the point, I have a brand new brushed Titan motor I took out of my TRX-4, which has to be better than the Rochobby motor that was in it, and I can't get the drag brake to do anything. I have every brake setting at max, using the program card, to no avail. Running a 3s and I am NOT utilizing the adjustable drag brake channel. It doesn't even try to hold. I understand if the motor is too weak to hold, but shouldn't I hear some kind of PWM when trying to hold on an incline?
If you like to brake manually, the push button reverse has something for it.. reverse throttle will always be brakes. I just got the G2, I’ll have a go and see if I like it.
Amazon has every adapter imaginable my friend, usually 3s Ovonics have an XT60, you can get a pack of 4 Trx to XT60 adapters for about $8
The drag break feature looks like it will be a good addition, you see a lot of trucks flip over going down hill when the drag break catches and flips it tail over head but being able to turn it down would let you roll slowly sown the hill. yes the the reverse is not going to work. you are right the brain will not let you do it haha
This actually fixes the problem of short throw reverse, which is really bad idea in my opinion.
But having multiple esc's will most likely be confusing as hell, I admit.
Not only that, I think with current total "baby" throw trigger, I would not like the throw to be 50/50, cause then it'd be way too short both ways, fixing nothing. This G2 allows the longest possible throw=linear resolution for throttle control both ways. Pretty nice.
Saw a competition, where people were like speed crawling. The track had many flat and flat-ish sections with intermittent bigger obstacles, so the were running next to trucks. Live adjustment to drag brake, could be very useful for that i think.
So I guess those features will find their followers.
Also dumborc radio prices will go up 😬
Have a few solid axles that trail bash and crawl and just got a G2 so looking forward to the adjustable drag brake as for the real car mode give it a try and see as same been at this for many years it may be too much for my fixed brain
I simply cannot do it. Reverse is push-- always has been, always will be. The adjustable drag brake for trailing though-- useful.
How to hard- reboot ?? … mines doesn’t wanna respond to throttle forward /neutral / Reverse . Setting command
Hobbywing 1080 g2 80 A. Quickrun
Not bad for a brushed ESC. I prefer brushless when it comes to rock crawler ESCs. When I did use brushed ESCs, I liked the Carisma ARC-2 ESC over the 1080. It has more settings and a better drag brake.
Question:
* the 1080 has BEC Output : Switch Mode: 6V/7.4V 3A
* the G2 has BEC Output : 6V/7.4V/8.4V @ 4A, 6A
So I'm about to order one just to test my fleet of brushed motors from back in the day when I was 4x4 1/10 racing (like +30 years ago).
The 1080 is 48€, the G2 is 56€. Does it matter which one I order?
The G2 is a bit smoother, and has a more powerful BEC (as you noted.) But any direct power servo negates the better BEC, and unless you're using a really nice motor, I honestly don't think you'll notice the difference between the G1 and the G2. It's really close-- I'm of course ignoring Real Car Mode and switchable drag brake. I never even remember that the drag brake function exists. The cheaper (older) one (should) also comes with a program card.
So I have a question on these esc so these esc say you can run 2s down to 10t motors and 17t and up on 3s so if I'm running 5slot 16t motor will 3s be fine and 540 size my motor is
Yes, you'll be fine on 3S. A 5 slot 16T is roughly a 35T 3-slot.
-Thats orange, haha, on video atleast on my screen.
-Another great thing with the 1080 is it works in other rc cars too. I currently use it in a Citroën 2CV Tamiya rc, m05 chassis. Had it in TT02B buggy a while too. Sure double the price than 1060, but better throttle sensitivity and plenty adjustable features if one feels for it.
-I do like the idea of biggger bec with bigger voltage options on the G2.
-But the fact the Fusion SE is silly cheap makes it difficult to recommend :D but i will keep using 1080 for my brushed small 10th scale buggies and scale cars!
You got a Ganesha ( Hindu God) in the frame on the rocks 25:00 mins. Pretty cool!
Just bought my first 1080. A week before the g2 release. Lol
Good to know didn’t make a mistake
#bigtruck
Yeah, you're really not missing much. I have the G2 installed in Jake, and by now can't even detect that initial smoothness improvement that I did in testing. Feels exactly the same. And he can turn off drag brake... but I've never done it once.
Have a question I'm new rc like I've said before. I got two traxxas slashes for Christmas kne for me one for my son. I got the ovanic liposuction and a good charger. I can not get an adapter anywhere that goes from the ovanic battery to the traxxas plug to run them. I need two of them. Where can I get them? My local hobby shop does not have then he said he would make me two it's been three weeks. I want to have fun. Before I buy a crawler I want to race a little
Amazon has any and every adapter your imagination can fathom…… and most are around $7 to $10
Here ya go: amzn.to/3Zj3ZdW
I see a use for the real car mode but not on a crawler. This mode would force the driver to be deliberate with reverse and on go fast cars this would be nice. So I'm not sure with how the 1080 or 1080 G2 work but on other brushless esc's I've used a double pump of the brakes results in the esc trying to go in reverse which isn't to good. However even cheap brushless escs don't have this issue, and i don't run any of my fast cars with a brushed motor. Maybe a brushed tamiya rally car could benefit?
Yeah, the old "reverse lockout" a holdover from racing classes with absolutely no reverse allowed. The G2 would honestly make a great pick for some kind of Spec class, so cars could have reverse enabled, but it would be more like (as in the name) "real" reverse. So I can see an application for it, just not in a crawler-- as we often need reverse like... RIGHT NOW.
@@CrawlerCanyon i think you nailed it. Its like race mode but also can reverse if really needed.
Even for trailing, the ordinary 1080 works great; the "anti-freewheeling" feature means that you can
release the trigger slowly for a gentle stop, or let it drop to neutral for an emergency stop.
I suppose turning the drag brake off could increase efficiency, since the motor would never be holding back,
and you could coast down hills, but really.. I can't imagine those reduce runtime very much.
Plus, if you needed to stop suddenly or slow down, you'd have to pop it in reverse,
which would be more violent than a drag brake anyway.
Overall... I think it's a cool addition, but a bit pointless since the feature it had already is even better. :l
I don't want to pooh-pooh the new features too much, as I think they might be of use to someone, somewhere. But yeah. Trigger discipline is so ingrained into me, I'm never going to be able to pull-for-reverse, and the oddity in throttle behavior when ascending when drag brake is disabled is just too noticeable.
The upside for this, at least for me, is that the G2 didn't try to do to much. The core operation is that of a 1080WP, just a little bit smoother. So I'm fine with that. They also didn't crank up the pricepoint for the "new release," so kudos to HW for that.
Hold the controller with your right hand may be easier for driving in the real car mode.😁 And I think it maybe not for crawler but for racing. It's a FB/RB mode which is better than FB and FBR.
I can genuinely see the utility of the Real Car Mode for racing, where reverse is usually banned.
But I will never be able to retrain my brain to "pull for reverse." As far as my brain is concerned, this is the crawling equivalent of the backwards bicycle.
hi sir, what size fan is suitable for 1080 g2
Any of the 25x25 fans, like the Hobbywing 2510 or 2507. Just be sure to note-- with a few exceptions, all of the cooling fans you'll find are basic 5V fans, so they can handle 2S-- if you're running 3S, the fan will get battery voltage and it won't be happy for long. HW does make a 12V version of the 2507, HW p/n 86080020
thank you sir..
hi, can i use hobbywing 1080 card program for 1080 g2?
You sure can. The G2 just adds a couple of adjustable parameters that the G1 doesn't have (like real car mode, and a 3rd BEC setting.) Same exact card, though.
thank you sir👍👍
Nice review😎 subscribed👍
Very Naice Review!!!
If Hobbywing would take a page out of Castle’s or ISD’s book and add a customizable throttle curve, I’d be all in! However, until that happens, I’ll stick with the ESC70 for the cheap brushed esc.
In all my years, I've never had a comparably miserable experience with an electronic object of any sort (and the Hammerhead Karoo cycling computer is counted in this, whose release and update schedule I still classify as "a debacle") as I have with the ISDT ESC70. If you are having good fortune with it, I wish you nothing but the best. I continue to regard it as lackluster hardware and utterly incompetent firmware/software. I documented my tribulations thoroughly, and have less than zero desire to personally revisit the ESC70.
Man, I guess I'm still pretty sore about that one.
@@CrawlerCanyon man I’ve heard of more than a few people having issues with those, I’ve had 5 or 6 of them at this point and I’ve never had any real issues with them. The only thing that frustrated me was with the first one I tried calibrating and tuning it out in the woods, with very crappy internet connection, so it fought me tooth and nail. After heading back to the house and getting back to a solid connection, everything worked great and has continued to work perfectly fine ever since. Maybe they are hit and miss and I’ve just been lucky enough to get all the good ones, who knows. The fact that I have had no issues thus far and the fact that I can program my own throttle curve will keep me coming back to them for cheap brushed esc’s, and the same for Castle when Ive got the money to go brushless.
@@drz_rc I was a VERY early adopter, and I'm pretty sure I got one of the earliest released models-- and the app/firmware to go with it. NOTHING worked. Mine will routinely lose calibration, and the only way to get it off of "motor output disabled" is to delete the ESC from the app, start fresh, and then voila! it works. Until I power it down, then a solid 50% of the time it forgets everything again. I gave up and it sits in it's box, most likely forever.
The point of my comment was to point out the lack of throttle curve option from Hobbywing. Definitely not trying to talk ya into trying the ESC70 again. Just wish HW would add the one option that it lacks, which happens to be the one single option that keeps me from buying their products.
@@CrawlerCanyon that would definitely leave a bad taste in the mouth for sure. I think the first one I got was just about a year ago and the last one was just a few weeks ago, so just solely based on what I’ve experienced, I’d say they’ve fixed quite a bit. Something else that is actually pretty cool is the option to change its PWF, you can make it dead silent. Now that’s something I definitely wish Castle would do!
I need a 3d printed holder for mine if there's a site I can order one
If you have a 3D printer, you can print one from this file on Thingiverse (which is what I did) www.thingiverse.com/thing:3668792
If you don't have a printer, you can buy one off of Shapeways for about 20 bucks-- which seems steep to me, but , you know, IMO. www.shapeways.com/product/B56UKCCA9/crc1021-hobbywing-quicrun-1080-wp-esc-mount-v2
@@CrawlerCanyon kind of wish I had a 3d printer but also my laptop is super slow
@@TheMrhick92 not to sound like a salesman for 3D printers, but many (if not most) use a USB stick or SD card, so the computer isn’t really in the equation. I’m mostly too impatient for 3D printing, but you can make some really cool stuff.
@@CrawlerCanyon if there was one that's bluetooth that would be pretty nice
technically 2 changes as bec is different and the real drive mode, not a bad thing but does take some getting used to
Been at it too long to ever be able to "rewire" to use real car mode. Reverse is trigger forward, to the point where it's instinctive-- I don't even think about it.
While I appreciate a BEC going to 8.4V, it's almost lost on me, as with each build there's one less rig running steering off of the internal BEC. I wouldn't even say direct-power servos are the future, direct-power is the now.
@@CrawlerCanyon At near 55 years old I'm used to the same but I have a purely trail rig set up with it and is odd yeah but ill give it some time before I revert to usual set up. If nothing else the adjustable drag isn't a bad idea depending on rig also
Back around 2010 I was into nitro RC’s and the trigger worked similar to real car mode ( nitro transmissions have one direction input and uses a servo to mechanically shift into reverse and trigger forward is a mechanical brake ) so people going from nitro’s to electric RC’s might find real car mode second nature, that being said it’s probably useless for electric RC’s especially crawlers which I’m mostly into since 2018
Yeah, I don't see it working in a crawler AT ALL. But I could definitely see it used in some kind of spec racing series, in place of full reverse lockout.
If they started including the mode in say the 10BL120, I could see it as useful in drift cars, drag cars, etc. The functionality in brushed is seriously limited, IMO.
can you show your tire rack
I sure can. I could have sworn I made a short about it, but I just spent awhile looking through my own uploads and couldn't find it. So, you know, 🤷♂️
I can put a community pic of it up tomorrow. I'm thinking about revamping it, just to make it bigger. I initially though, "oh, storage for like 12 sets of tires is plenty."
I still have three bins of tires beyond what's on the rack, and the rack is jammed full.
@@CrawlerCanyon thanks that would be great
why the heck not call the new one the g2 and the old one g1, since thats exactly what they are.
Send me one of those program cards needing one for my first 1080