the amount of effort that went into this is amazing and i can't believe you had it all so well documented and took so many additional steps to make sure others in the community could learn from this. well done!
For those who want to take apart the endoscope. You dont need any power tools. Just get a hair blower or something the same and heat up the end where the wire is and gently move the rubber part side to side till it slowly pops out. You just need to soften the rubber so you can remove it. No need to do all those grinding and shiz
tried this - ripped the camera apart and tore the camera's ribbon cable - will use chilichoke's cutting method in the future (I might buy some cheap borescopes to practice on). I'm pretty sure chilichoke would have tried the hairdryer method and would have failed too. But well done - looks like you got the hairdryer method to work !!
SHEESH dude I was just looking into endoscope cameras to see if anyone's dialed in the process by now, and I can't believe how awesome this video was. Answered questions I didn't even know I had
For the technically less adept, have you considered leaving the endoscope intact and instead using a small mirror, like the type they use in laser cutters? Inexpensive, high quality. You could run the endoscope vertically and have the mirror adjustable to aim your point of interest. In fact, I think my endoscope came with a 90 degree mirror adapter.
Thank you!. Solved my problem. I'll see front surface mirrors, I was thinking of mirrors anyway to see all angle from one camera. I can't see whet's happening on the Sovol extruder like I could with the ancient replicator..
I've been wanting to do this for my railcores but was dreading having to do endoscope internals & lens research. You're awesome for publishing all this man, thank you.
Absolutely astounding. The professional feel of both the research, the actual making, and to top it the video production is just impressive. On the very short shortlist of subbed with the bell on 👍
Thanks! Although it took forever as this was basically my first time making a presentation style video, I've learned a lot in editing and had to throw in a bit of fun as well. :)
Ordered the same endoscope and took it apart today and came across two big differences from this video. 1. There’s only one board inside, the usb cable are directly soldered to the yellow board that holds the camera lens. 2. I tried finding the bottom on the camera as instructed but it’s the camera view is perpendicular to the board and not parallel.
I want to say that your video is amazing. You’ve invested not only time to develop your project, but also to create a great video illustrating the project. It is a ten of ten. During long time I’ve been thinking to create a similar concept to my flashforge creator pro, and I though a raspicam or a webcam should be enough, but trough your video, I’m jumping to an endoscope cam. This was one of my options, but I never think to disassembly it. Also using external lens was also not considered in my draft design. So, thanks again for saving me hundreds of hours of investigation, try and error, and destroying hardware. I’ll start buying the hardware and designing the mount while the parts arrive home. Juan .
You're more than welcome and glad to hear you found it informative. I'm not big on social media besides a few 3D printing channels on Discord, but figured discussing information other could find useful on private channels is not really that productive to others looking for similar information. Making length UA-cam video is new to me (in fact this was my first one) but it does have a broad reach of audience, so I feel like this is a good way to spread information and also to documenting my projects, which I'm usually not very good at.
Your sense of humor damn near surpasses your tenacity on this project. Had I known you were using the Fantronics endoscope I would have bought stock before you posted lol. As luck has it, I’d already bought that exact cam for a Baader meat grinding issue awhile back. Props to you for seeing it through and sharing! 🤘
I just started my own build. It looks like the Fantronics camera you used changed slightly. It no longer has a breakout board that is attached via ribbon cable. The wires are soldered directly to the main board now.
For those looking into doing one of these - there's an off the shelf nozzle camera by 3DO now. Voron, Ratrig, VzBot compatable. Kinda expensive, but I'm excited to try it!
I found pre-disassembled camera modules by searching for endoscope camera module, they're coming from aliexpress so I'm not expecting to see them for another month but I'll definitely let you know how I go
I just tried the first steps of this, and had a few additions. 1. You can buy modules directly from Aliexpress, I bought one that said it was focusable, but it seems it's not. But it works, and it does not have any case to remove. 2. I had some iFixit adhesive remover I just used to replace a phone battery (looks like it's Isopropanol and Acetone), I put a drop of that on the glue and the camera popped off with minimal force after about 30 seconds. I think the adhesive remover is still risky if any gets on the lens, or inside the assembly it could wreck it just as bad as snapping the cable. But so far everything works, I ordered a lens now.
Thank you Good work, Thank you for sharing your progress, failures, achieving a great success and a huge progress for 3D printing. We will be able to make really top printing profiles thanks to you. I'm going to buy the endoscope you recommend.
You're very welcome. 👍 I feel it's important to show progress and failures as it's a big part of creating that's often overlooked even thought it happens way more often than success. 🤣
Nice, I experimented with a similar idea, in my case a drop of isopropyl alcohol on the lens softened he glue, making it so much easier to refocus without damaging the lens.
Could you give an idea of how to leave the camera as a video server on a local network? example, using the endoscopic camera with the same connectivity used in an esp32-Cam.
I imagine the use of these cameras will be very popular to track the printing progress with AI in the near future. Great work, thank you for sharing :)
Nice job! Really liked the amount of effort you've put in to make this actually a valuable video! If you've you are up for a challenge: How about putting a spring-steel belt around your Voron's printbed. Not to make infinite prints, but to automise prints by letting them peel of into a storage bin. Keep up the great work!
If you only lack the external lens then maybe you could try using lens from an old DVD/CD drive. Many people use those as an alternative to macro lens for phones.
Definitely an interesting concept with great execution. I can't wait until some mounts roll out on thingiverse, I'm feeling a bit too lazy to make one for my Ender 3's V6 setup.
Nice implementation. I was thinking why didn't you go with mirrors for better positioning instead of destroying endoscopes ?! I guess aligning a mirror can be done easily & cleanly, maybe you'd need lenses also ! Overall, good job & great camera focus
The biggest reason was to reduce it's size and weight as much as possible to maintain the speed performance of the printer, the final camera assembly added less weight then a silicon sock. 👍
Qinlorgo 5MP Camera Module, 2592 1944P Camera Module OV5640. Thought maybe this might be easier than stripping it down to get to the component. Ordered one to see if it would work
@@DesignitBuilditRepairit Nice, I've done some research on modules as well and found the best camera for the job, 4k 60fps, fhd 120fps, HD 240fps : matecam x9 with imx258
Would a microscope lens help? I ended up with an endoscope which is 5.5mm diameter thin, 480p, hideous colour, but low latency and focused sharp in 30-50mm range, and flexible cable, no stiff section. So i was thinking i'd jam it right in but i can even just mount it vertically and have a mirror towards the nozzle. I mean if i were you, and given you already found a macro lens to refocus the camera further out, i'd probably also just mount it vertically and use a mirror.
excellent video. Regarding the adjustment of the camera focus, have you thought about being able to attach the camera to a piece of plastic that is attached to a screw to be able to manually adjust the camera focus by turning the screw, to make it more universal for any type of camera hotend?
I've not even finished my voron build and now I NEED this. Thanks so much for putting so much time into this video man, so excited to dive in. Has anyone made an afterburner mod to suite this? If not I'll get on it soon as my parts arrive.
@@yonatanben-menachem1902 my brother I did. Well I modified some stuff to make it work easily. Hit me up tomorrow and I'll send you some stuffs now problem
first of all: thank you so much for this amazing effort! its just insane. Do you have any other recommendations for the endoscope cam? Cause i cant get the fantronics endoscope anywhere. (at least in europe and on aliexpress)
Thanks mate for the help, this is so useful for debugging prints. Only issue is I can't use your affiliate links as they for the USA amazon, the shipping is expensive, I really want to contribute to your idea, so if you have time to put up links for other areas that would be cool.
Not yet, I'm a little reluctant releasing what I have now because it's still rough and not release ready, and my Voron carriage + print head were never stock, I modified it since day 1 to be able to switch between V6 and Volcano while keeping same Z probe position (not possible if stock spec). Because the nozzle was never in the "stock spec" position, if I release it people would need to modify their config file. I'd rather just release (when finished) the stock spec carriage for both 2.2 and 2.4. Another potential problem is that different hotends will have different nozzle position, and Afterburner doesn't account for that. For all these reasons is why I am designing my 2.4 complete carriage/printhead mod, which I can then release everything as a print-and-assemble solution.
the amount of effort that went into this is amazing and i can't believe you had it all so well documented and took so many additional steps to make sure others in the community could learn from this. well done!
I agree fully, this is user-created content at its absolute best. Liked and subscribed.
Ayyo is scott
Commenting just so UA-cam can try and recommend this to more people!
For those who want to take apart the endoscope. You dont need any power tools. Just get a hair blower or something the same and heat up the end where the wire is and gently move the rubber part side to side till it slowly pops out. You just need to soften the rubber so you can remove it. No need to do all those grinding and shiz
tried this - ripped the camera apart and tore the camera's ribbon cable - will use chilichoke's cutting method in the future (I might buy some cheap borescopes to practice on). I'm pretty sure chilichoke would have tried the hairdryer method and would have failed too. But well done - looks like you got the hairdryer method to work !!
@@darrenupton9747probably got lucky too. maybe they have a different ways of assembling the camera.
@@darrenupton9747To be fair, chilicoke’s method didn’t apparently go well every time either.
Many thanks for investing knowledge, time and money to share this concept. Awesome.
You're very welcome. No point in building cool stuff if you don't share. 👍
SHEESH dude I was just looking into endoscope cameras to see if anyone's dialed in the process by now, and I can't believe how awesome this video was. Answered questions I didn't even know I had
For the technically less adept, have you considered leaving the endoscope intact and instead using a small mirror, like the type they use in laser cutters? Inexpensive, high quality. You could run the endoscope vertically and have the mirror adjustable to aim your point of interest. In fact, I think my endoscope came with a 90 degree mirror adapter.
This also would help with the heat frying cameras. I wonder why no one has tried this...
Thank you!. Solved my problem. I'll see front surface mirrors, I was thinking of mirrors anyway to see all angle from one camera. I can't see whet's happening on the Sovol extruder like I could with the ancient replicator..
"What's this guy need with 20 endoscopes?"
"Don't ask just ship"
Big Brother - Antfarm Edition!
@@andreas3858 Awesome idea... :O
Don't give me more ideas now... 🤔
I've been wanting to do this for my railcores but was dreading having to do endoscope internals & lens research. You're awesome for publishing all this man, thank you.
Please do post a video, would love it see it a Railcore!
This is very impressive. Think I might have to watch it 20-30 more times before giving it a go
Great video!
Thanks! had to give you a shout-out in video as your Voron video guides are excellent. 👍
Absolutely astounding. The professional feel of both the research, the actual making, and to top it the video production is just impressive. On the very short shortlist of subbed with the bell on 👍
Thanks! Although it took forever as this was basically my first time making a presentation style video, I've learned a lot in editing and had to throw in a bit of fun as well. :)
Thank you for your hard work and contributions to our community!
Ordered the same endoscope and took it apart today and came across two big differences from this video.
1. There’s only one board inside, the usb cable are directly soldered to the yellow board that holds the camera lens.
2. I tried finding the bottom on the camera as instructed but it’s the camera view is perpendicular to the board and not parallel.
I want to say that your video is amazing. You’ve invested not only time to develop your project, but also to create a great video illustrating the project. It is a ten of ten.
During long time I’ve been thinking to create a similar concept to my flashforge creator pro, and I though a raspicam or a webcam should be enough, but trough your video, I’m jumping to an endoscope cam. This was one of my options, but I never think to disassembly it. Also using external lens was also not considered in my draft design.
So, thanks again for saving me hundreds of hours of investigation, try and error, and destroying hardware. I’ll start buying the hardware and designing the mount while the parts arrive home.
Juan .
You're more than welcome and glad to hear you found it informative. I'm not big on social media besides a few 3D printing channels on Discord, but figured discussing information other could find useful on private channels is not really that productive to others looking for similar information. Making length UA-cam video is new to me (in fact this was my first one) but it does have a broad reach of audience, so I feel like this is a good way to spread information and also to documenting my projects, which I'm usually not very good at.
this is the holy grale of research about this topic. WOW!
Got me hooked ordering parts now
You sir, are AWESOME!!! Thank you for taking your time explaining in perfect detail how you did this... Amazing!
I'm 30 seconds in and... this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for testing all of these!
Awesome work!
Affiliates used, thanks for the detailed step by step.
Your sense of humor damn near surpasses your tenacity on this project. Had I known you were using the Fantronics endoscope I would have bought stock before you posted lol. As luck has it, I’d already bought that exact cam for a Baader meat grinding issue awhile back. Props to you for seeing it through and sharing! 🤘
You deserve a comment, this is cool.
Awesome! I hope Nozzle Cams will be a standard feature in affordable printers in a couple of years or at least easy to add with aftermarket kits.
Fantastic work. Well documented throughout. Thank you for your persistence and revealing the solutions. It was absolutely so worth it. 🤘🏻
I just got mine yesterday after getting your video recommended to me a week ago, this video came right in time! Thank you for the detailed overview
10/10 love the effort and the result
I just started my own build. It looks like the Fantronics camera you used changed slightly. It no longer has a breakout board that is attached via ribbon cable. The wires are soldered directly to the main board now.
Please... Add link to .STL (All extruder parts), your kit is very good.
For those looking into doing one of these - there's an off the shelf nozzle camera by 3DO now. Voron, Ratrig, VzBot compatable. Kinda expensive, but I'm excited to try it!
Did you end up buying the 3do camera? I'm looking at a 2560P endoscope just tryna find all the stuff needed for mounting(or printing for the mount)
I found pre-disassembled camera modules by searching for endoscope camera module, they're coming from aliexpress so I'm not expecting to see them for another month but I'll definitely let you know how I go
I just tried the first steps of this, and had a few additions. 1. You can buy modules directly from Aliexpress, I bought one that said it was focusable, but it seems it's not. But it works, and it does not have any case to remove. 2. I had some iFixit adhesive remover I just used to replace a phone battery (looks like it's Isopropanol and Acetone), I put a drop of that on the glue and the camera popped off with minimal force after about 30 seconds.
I think the adhesive remover is still risky if any gets on the lens, or inside the assembly it could wreck it just as bad as snapping the cable.
But so far everything works, I ordered a lens now.
Thank you for sharing your project and experience, learned a lot from this video!
Thank you
Good work,
Thank you for sharing your progress, failures, achieving a great success and a huge progress for 3D printing.
We will be able to make really top printing profiles thanks to you.
I'm going to buy the endoscope you recommend.
You're very welcome. 👍 I feel it's important to show progress and failures as it's a big part of creating that's often overlooked even thought it happens way more often than success. 🤣
This was incredibly helpful
Nice, I experimented with a similar idea, in my case a drop of isopropyl alcohol on the lens softened he glue, making it so much easier to refocus without damaging the lens.
Good tip! thanks!
Up this video! I am stunned by the work you put into this! 🤙🏻
Soldering an smd resistor between 2 wires like a boss.
Well put together, good instructions on the fiddlier parts and a well presented video over all! 10/10!
Thank you for the effort. I'll make use of the links if I'd buy one.
Absolutely amazing. I'm going to attempt this, and of course post a video of my results, positive or negative.
Hope you found it informative, yes please do I'd love to see it!
I'm using an otoscope (ear endoscope). They have very close focusing distance.
this is actually really useful for print parameter trouble shooting
Yeah I definitely see this more as a calibration tool to help improve print profiles.
Excellent video, great project. I'm going to make one for sure. Thanks mate!
Post video of your results afterwards, I'd love to see it!
I wish we were friends, sick video.
Subscribed after the introduction :D
What a labor of love! Great job and thanks for sharing your very hard earned knowledge!
Great explanation of your process and best addition to your Voron!
Could you give an idea of how to leave the camera as a video server on a local network? example, using the endoscopic camera with the same connectivity used in an esp32-Cam.
I imagine the use of these cameras will be very popular to track the printing progress with AI in the near future. Great work, thank you for sharing :)
I realy apresheate that you have the info public! Thank you sooo mutch.
Great tinkering ! Thank you !
Dude.. You go HARD
Ideas for new projects tiny filament jam detector for voron.
thanks for doing this, super interesting
Thanks for sharing your Sherpa mini extruder as well. Will definitely take some inspiration from it for my ongoing modular extruder design. 👍
wow wow wow, what a great video, a perfect exemplary of what a video guide should be. 👌👌👌
Glad you liked it!
Nice job! Really liked the amount of effort you've put in to make this actually a valuable video!
If you've you are up for a challenge:
How about putting a spring-steel belt around your Voron's printbed. Not to make infinite prints, but to automise prints by letting them peel of into a storage bin.
Keep up the great work!
so how come you cant use a rpi camera? if you could extend that weird little connector I think it would have the best image quality
Very awesome work my friend!! I subbed! This voron community is full of all kinds of geniuses!!
Powerful work..fantastic .. you should work in a group of printer developers. What an accuracy and demanding result! And the result is super good!
This looks so cool. I would also like to have this on my printer. Unfortunately, the production is massively beyond my skills
3:00 Maybe good as an SMD soldering camera?
Bruh. thats wicked!
A very well-engineered project
Wow great work!
If you only lack the external lens then maybe you could try using lens from an old DVD/CD drive. Many people use those as an alternative to macro lens for phones.
Interesting, I'll have to check this out. 👍
What a great job! Thanks for sharing.
Definitely an interesting concept with great execution. I can't wait until some mounts roll out on thingiverse, I'm feeling a bit too lazy to make one for my Ender 3's V6 setup.
Very well done project, result is amazing! great to see the research that went into it.
Thanks!
Wow...what an awesome job man.
Hey i got An quick qeustion can you give the stl file for the fan duct and the piece that you design where the camera and lens fit in perfect
This is awesome. Though it would be a lot easier if you provided some pre-built (as much as possible) kits we could purchase.
so much work! You are awesome man... I am amused about your work !!! Well done
Nice implementation.
I was thinking why didn't you go with mirrors for better positioning instead of destroying endoscopes ?!
I guess aligning a mirror can be done easily & cleanly, maybe you'd need lenses also !
Overall, good job & great camera focus
The biggest reason was to reduce it's size and weight as much as possible to maintain the speed performance of the printer, the final camera assembly added less weight then a silicon sock. 👍
Hi. Great Video. What cooling assembly are you using?
absolutely amazing. i sadly, i can't imagine doing all of that myself. kudos.
awesome work man !! this is mezmerizing
This is so good!
Amazing work and documentation!
Great work 👍
Thank you for sharing 🙏
What about a surgical mirror to reflect the image so the camera could be mounted in the z direction? The surgical mirrors come in varying sizes.
Qinlorgo 5MP Camera Module, 2592 1944P Camera Module OV5640. Thought maybe this might be easier than stripping it down to get to the component. Ordered one to see if it would work
Would love feedback on that camera module, I've seen the esp32 use it
@@Nairod785 I'll let you know. Going to try it out this weekend
@@DesignitBuilditRepairit Nice, I've done some research on modules as well and found the best camera for the job, 4k 60fps, fhd 120fps, HD 240fps : matecam x9 with imx258
Awesome tutorial! Thanks!!
Would a microscope lens help?
I ended up with an endoscope which is 5.5mm diameter thin, 480p, hideous colour, but low latency and focused sharp in 30-50mm range, and flexible cable, no stiff section. So i was thinking i'd jam it right in but i can even just mount it vertically and have a mirror towards the nozzle. I mean if i were you, and given you already found a macro lens to refocus the camera further out, i'd probably also just mount it vertically and use a mirror.
I subs when you list down what and how to set it up!
looks great
Works good with 110°C in the printer bed?
I would like to thank you for this video this what i had in mind can this go on a afterburner for my v2.4 thank you for any help
I'm working on a Voron build. Would love to see your afterburner mod files!
man your a legend
Can you design one of the ender 3’s
Fantastic vid!
Most excelent video
excellent video. Regarding the adjustment of the camera focus, have you thought about being able to attach the camera to a piece of plastic that is attached to a screw to be able to manually adjust the camera focus by turning the screw, to make it more universal for any type of camera hotend?
Thanks for your hard work, I'll be working on versions for ender 3 and the pursa mk3.
Any chance to get the STL files for printing the modded dragon burner parts?
Thx for your work.
Nice idea, have you ever tried the periscope lens method....
I've not even finished my voron build and now I NEED this. Thanks so much for putting so much time into this video man, so excited to dive in. Has anyone made an afterburner mod to suite this? If not I'll get on it soon as my parts arrive.
Were you able to find/design an afterburner mod for this?
@@yonatanben-menachem1902 my brother I did.
Well I modified some stuff to make it work easily. Hit me up tomorrow and I'll send you some stuffs now problem
@@chrisgrantham2648 could you share the parts?
@@chrisgrantham2648 any chance yo can share the stuff?
first of all: thank you so much for this amazing effort! its just insane. Do you have any other recommendations for the endoscope cam? Cause i cant get the fantronics endoscope anywhere. (at least in europe and on aliexpress)
Thanks mate for the help, this is so useful for debugging prints. Only issue is I can't use your affiliate links as they for the USA amazon, the shipping is expensive, I really want to contribute to your idea, so if you have time to put up links for other areas that would be cool.
Very cool. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I will be building one of these after I finish my Voron 2.4. Subscribed for more cool mods 😎
Any possibility to share the design of the hotend?
Not yet, I'm a little reluctant releasing what I have now because it's still rough and not release ready, and my Voron carriage + print head were never stock, I modified it since day 1 to be able to switch between V6 and Volcano while keeping same Z probe position (not possible if stock spec). Because the nozzle was never in the "stock spec" position, if I release it people would need to modify their config file. I'd rather just release (when finished) the stock spec carriage for both 2.2 and 2.4. Another potential problem is that different hotends will have different nozzle position, and Afterburner doesn't account for that. For all these reasons is why I am designing my 2.4 complete carriage/printhead mod, which I can then release everything as a print-and-assemble solution.