It’s a long episode this week. But after editing for 2 weeks to whittle it down from the original 50 minutes, I’ve left the essentials to explain how we completed the project. Let me know if it holds your interest. One goal of UA-cam is to create videos that people will want to watch all the way through. Any feedback is welcome. Happy boating!
It won't be for everyone but I appreciate your detailed explanation here of the procedure and admirable composure as the problems came up. I would be swearing a lot more, zen!
When this gentleman said this video may be important while he was going through stressful moment. A class A ++++ person. That's for sharing tooo much. And when he mentioned about "brilliant people with other ideas" is so easy to be a arm charged quarterback. He fixed it great job...
If I were in the process of deliberately sinking my boat, I would need an unhealthy dose of Thorazine, Dramamine and a few other "ines" to be that cool.
The only teaching value is showing what not to do. This guy is an idiot. Instead of letting all the water flow into the boat plug it with a softwood plug from the inside after temporarily plugging from the outside. Then you can work on the retaining nut at your leisure.
Sir, you have a gift to teach! You have no idea how much I enjoy your instructional videos! If you can do more sailing instructional videos, go ahead! You make it ao easy to learn!!! God Bless You a Lot!!!
This is a nice video explaining how you can work in the water and effect repairs. However, the idea of replacing a backing plate and only the backing plate seems to me somewhat counterintuitive. At the point where only the mushroom is left in the throughhull, I would have taken the extra time to pry out the mushroom and replace that as well. Especially if the mushroom was spinning. If it was spinning, that means the seal under the boat has been broken and water is finding its way between the mushroom and the glass underneath potentially being absorbed in to the glass and hull. At best creating osmosis, and worst invading the hull sandwich. Second, if all the parts are off, replace all the parts, including the ball valve. The only major concern I would have in doing all this in the water is if the mushroom did not spin and was adhesive attached to the hull, which is common. Removing an adhesive attached mushroom cold poentially also break away some of the hull material underneath requiring repair on the hard. You could also potentially create a hole that could not be bunged and let in way too much water for the pumps to safely keep you afloat. The moment you decide to remove the retainer nut from the mushroom is the most dangerous part since you have no idea the condition of the hole in the hull. This excersize, while academic in nature to prove this could be done if the hard is not an option should not be taken as a shortcut to just haul out for a day and do the work.
As a new owner of an older boat who is learning a lot about maintenance sort of as I go, I cannot overstate how reassuring it was to watch this. Ethan taking the time to explain the importance of matching straight and tapered threads in a fitting *while water was still (slowly) coming into his boat* was quite the masterclass in understanding what needs to happen *now* and what can wait maybe a minute or two. Thanks very much for sharing!
This was an excellent video. There was nothing really missed out the essentials were covered. I would be confident in changing a thru hull after watching this, the main thing being don't panic when all does not go to plan. My only contribution would be that the diver ought to have one of those suction pads to stick to the hull to hold himself in place. Excellent video, thank you.
I'm surprised you were able to get such good camera angles during the awkward and difficult method of doing this in the water. Lots of effort behind the scenes, thank you!
WOW always more than one way to get things done!! Surprised the cost of the diver + stress is less than lifting the boat out for a few hours. Also, glad I went the composite route with all my through-hulls and backing plates (G10).
Thanks. In CA I’ve noticed lifting boat out is quite a bit more $$ than when I lived in Annapolis, for example. It probably would have cost $1000 to lift out of water and put onto stands in the yard. And by the time you spend that, you might as well line up a few additional projects all at once like bottom paint, etc.
Box Spanners! Courageous video showing a 'just get it done' spirit. There are many times you just can't pull out your boat, so this is really useful - Thank you! Sad to see a perfectly good nut cut in half just because you couldn't get the purchase you needed to unlock it - I would suggest having a few Box Spanners on board for this purpose - way cheaper than a 2" Socket, way more dependable than ratchet drives, and way less weight. And you can work a second tool down the 'throat'. Safe Travels.
thanks for knowing stuff.. I hope you realize that only a handful of people can do these things and the rest of us can only watch & learn...even fewer people can jump from the water up onto the dock into a sitting position without also being a sea lion......epic
Extremely informative thanks to Josh a for filming this helpful procedure and Ethan for sharing Knowledge and techniques for repairing the through hole. especially while in the water. All the Very Best to the two of you guys.
The best takeaway I got from this was Tef-gel. The other takeaway is have a socket that fits the nut and tap the nut around the flats with a pin punch and hammer to free it before even trying to loosen it. Still for a improvised job well done.
I had a similar experience where I had to cut the nut off. Unfortunately I had to pull replace the entire thru-hull because I nicked the threads. I have to say, with my thru-hull job there was a lot more colorful language being used ;). Great videos, keep em coming!
In a pinch, you can cut the threads of the thru hull down to just shy of the thread depth inside the ball valve and use it as the nut. Added bonus, less height to lesson the chance of an errant foot snapping the assembly off. That's when you have a real problem!
So, to add yet another layer of challenge, my inlet thru hull has a grill which acts as a course filter to stop extraneous matter from jamming the ball valve…which also precludes the conical rubber bung… The tarp idea sounds useful but then prevents access to secure the thru hull from turning from the outside…so maybe one could fit one of those bungs you screw tighten inside the thru hull from whichever side you aren’t dropping the thin spanner handle or bar to stop it turning? But very impressive video and excellent attitude to problem solving, no stress, calm cool head is a lesson in itself👍
You could put a toilet plunger on the outside and suction it to the hull to stop water from coming in. But then you have the problem with it turning unless you can hold it from the inside to stop the turning while you remove the nut.
Have your diver use a toilet plunger on out side of hull to prevent water coming in. I have drilled and installed new through hulls as well as replaced damaged ones many times.
Good video, shows it can be done in emergancy situation (I don't think i'll do that in the water, brave). One thing was strange and that was measuring the roundness of that tool across the flat gaps. :)
Just an idea for the crowd. Paint the threads on the through hul fitting & the nut w anti-sieze.it will delay any corrosion between the nut & fitting. Also there are anti-sieze products made w copper, instead of aluminum. Copper should prevent corrosion even better.
Good mention as far as tapered threads vs straight. It seems some DIYers think a brass valve from a big box store is direct replacement for the original bronze valve with straight threads on one end and tapered on rhe other.
very inspiring! it was a genius to cut open the nut. but since you already got that far, why not just take out the entire metal thing, and put in a new thru-hull ? much easier to just grind off / cut off the protruding part and punch out the remaining flange.
Riveting video! I've been binge watching your videos because I'm a newbie to the world of sailing and planning to crew on a friend's boat this summer (42 footer). I have to say, this video was so fascinating and intense - like watching a thriller movie. Great editing job 👍 Kudos to both you and Ethan for staying calm when all of that water was flowing in! A beautiful lesson in staying cool under pressure. Also I wanted to say a big "thank you" for creating all of these wonderful videos about sailing life. - very inspiring. Keep up the great work! (p.s. I love the diagrams!! : ) Where's your Patreon link?
Great to see that even the pros have problems and need to improvise. Did you edit out the F bombs or is Ethan the most calm guy I've ever seen? Long format was the only way to show the true work that went into it.
How about sticking/holding a bathroom plunger on the hull over the outside of the fitting to stop the leaking water while putting the goo on? Tighten it up as much you you can, let it all bed down dry, and then take it off and have the diver hold the outside in position for the final gutentight.
Not sure this would work, with all the marine stuff on the hull, but couldn’t that rubber plug be rammed into the hole and then a large suction cup placed over it to help stop the water?
I was thinking the exact same thing! Instead of putting a bung that may not fit snugly enough just put a large cup over the area and let the water pressure hold it to the hull.
Thank you for an excellent video. Do you think a tarpaulin pulled up over the bottom of the boat against the through hull might have been as good as the exterior plug pushed up by the diver?
Intresting manoeuvre I certainly don’t think I’d wanna try it,,,does it really save that much cost in not slipping the boat ,considering you’re allready paying out for diver .I was a boatbuilder for 20 years as I pulled some right bodges of but I just feel it’s too much when you could just end up sinking it so easily,i mentioned or my freind as soon as took the cutting disc to the backing nut that I wondered if you allready had a new nut
Yes the take away is have a new nut ready, incase it needs to be cut. Thanks for the struggle, i would have been panicking, trying to modify the tool before my boat sank.
I could see doing this in an emergency but not as a part of regular maintenance. If the bronze thruhull is deteriorated, then the ball valve can still break off the threaded end, sinking the boat.
Be very careful trying this stunt in the water. You have no idea on the condition of the throghhull ( electrol osys). You could end up seperating the inside nut with partially attached corroded through hull, with huge amounts of water coming in. Just because it worked for one person does not mean it will work for you. If you cant lift the boat out, then carren it and do it safely.
A lot easier with the motor taken out. What I am not sure of is why the work and cost to lift the motor just to get at the valve with the boat in the water. Could the valve have been removed with the engine in place, and the boat hauled at a lower price?
The engine was taken out long before. It was not taken out to get to the valve. The owner had taken it out piece by piece to rebuild it in his garage. The valve repair came a lot later. Getting the boat hauled out would not have been very fun. The point was to show that you can do these things while the boat is in the water.
We have installed new thru hulls by using a diver with a large toilet plunger with the new t/hull inside with 5200 on it, drill a small hole first so the diver can find it, then drill the correct hole then reach in the plunger with a wire and pull the t/h on the hole ,backing and nut and valve
The only argument I have with his method, is that he is using the wrench on the "top" of the ball valve where there is nothing to keep the wrench from squeezing the ball valve out of shape. I was always taught to put the wrench where there is a pipe going into the threads, to keep from ruining the valve. Had he put the wrench on the bottom, where the thru hull is going into the valve, he would be more safely able to turn the valve. Sometimes there isn't room, and maybe that's the case here, but I thought I'd point it out.
Thanks. He felt the mushroom part was still in pretty good condition and it would have been quite an added challenge to put sealant on the outside. That’s probably a better project for when boat is out of the water, but it could have been done if absolutely necessary.
Jesus. My nerves. This is my worst nightmare, and you're all so calm there with the water rushing in and things not working the way you planned o.O I mean, of course once in the situation you keep a level head but goddamn.
Why not take it out for the day , fix it and back in? Probably not that much more expensive compared to having a diver around and a lot less nerverecking
Why is this spacer made of wood? Why is it not made of a plastic material? In your other video where you replaced the valve in your toilet, there seemed to be no spacer at all. Why is this through hole made with a spacer when the one for the toilet is not?
![DIY Seacock Replacement (Detailed Version) | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]](/img/n.gif)
It’s a long episode this week. But after editing for 2 weeks to whittle it down from the original 50 minutes, I’ve left the essentials to explain how we completed the project. Let me know if it holds your interest. One goal of UA-cam is to create videos that people will want to watch all the way through. Any feedback is welcome. Happy boating!
It was very informative, who cares about the length, you need all the information which you provided.
Fixing a conundrum... spent my whole life trying and then another one. Thank you Josh for sharing the great people that you befriended.
Nice job done
It won't be for everyone but I appreciate your detailed explanation here of the procedure and admirable composure as the problems came up. I would be swearing a lot more, zen!
I look forward to your next project, painting the bottom while still in the water!
When this gentleman said this video may be important while he was going through stressful moment. A class A ++++ person. That's for sharing tooo much. And when he mentioned about "brilliant people with other ideas" is so easy to be a arm charged quarterback. He fixed it great job...
Phenomenal teaching video. That guy is cool as a cucumber. Definitely will be sharing this with a few groups.
If I were in the process of deliberately sinking my boat, I would need an unhealthy dose of Thorazine, Dramamine and a few other "ines" to be that cool.
@@mindlessconsumer Amen brother
Even Josh was cooler than I would have been just holding the camera. I would have been the Jerry to his Dean.
The only teaching value is showing what not to do. This guy is an idiot. Instead of letting all the water flow into the boat plug it with a softwood plug from the inside after temporarily plugging from the outside. Then you can work on the retaining nut at your leisure.
Sir, you have a gift to teach! You have no idea how much I enjoy your instructional videos! If you can do more sailing instructional videos, go ahead! You make it ao easy to learn!!! God Bless You a Lot!!!
I enjoyed this video. Thanks for not hiding the problems that arose
Thanks!
That was the most stressful video I have seen in a long time. Just watching the water coming in like that all over the wood was killing me!
This is a nice video explaining how you can work in the water and effect repairs.
However, the idea of replacing a backing plate and only the backing plate seems to me somewhat counterintuitive.
At the point where only the mushroom is left in the throughhull, I would have taken the extra time to pry out the mushroom and replace that as well.
Especially if the mushroom was spinning. If it was spinning, that means the seal under the boat has been broken and water is finding its way between the mushroom and the glass underneath potentially being absorbed in to the glass and hull. At best creating osmosis, and worst invading the hull sandwich.
Second, if all the parts are off, replace all the parts, including the ball valve.
The only major concern I would have in doing all this in the water is if the mushroom did not spin and was adhesive attached to the hull, which is common. Removing an adhesive attached mushroom cold poentially also break away some of the hull material underneath requiring repair on the hard. You could also potentially create a hole that could not be bunged and let in way too much water for the pumps to safely keep you afloat.
The moment you decide to remove the retainer nut from the mushroom is the most dangerous part since you have no idea the condition of the hole in the hull.
This excersize, while academic in nature to prove this could be done if the hard is not an option should not be taken as a shortcut to just haul out for a day and do the work.
As a new owner of an older boat who is learning a lot about maintenance sort of as I go, I cannot overstate how reassuring it was to watch this. Ethan taking the time to explain the importance of matching straight and tapered threads in a fitting *while water was still (slowly) coming into his boat* was quite the masterclass in understanding what needs to happen *now* and what can wait maybe a minute or two. Thanks very much for sharing!
Thanks Chris. And congrats on your boat!
This was an excellent video. There was nothing really missed out the essentials were covered. I would be confident in changing a thru hull after watching this, the main thing being don't panic when all does not go to plan. My only contribution would be that the diver ought to have one of those suction pads to stick to the hull to hold himself in place. Excellent video, thank you.
Thank you! And good tip added. 👍
Thanks Josh, Ethan and Diver Dude!
Wow. This was so very interesting - and inspiring. Ethan is so cool and calm.
Great video Josh... that split spacer would have kept me up at night.
Honestly I am glad everything worked out. I would consider this an at sea last resort option
Cool guy doing such a job in his own pace!
Great video and as a diver it was cool to see that divers set up at the pier so he did not have to wear the tank while working under the boat.
I'm surprised you were able to get such good camera angles during the awkward and difficult method of doing this in the water. Lots of effort behind the scenes, thank you!
Get a tarp, tie lines to four corners and keelhaul it under the hull. The pressure will force the tarp to temporarily seal and allow you to work.
beyond my dock level comfort.......awesome video!........nice to see it has been done...................
Brilliant video. And excellent editing Will share this with my son for sure. Good job by the whole crew!
WOW always more than one way to get things done!! Surprised the cost of the diver + stress is less than lifting the boat out for a few hours.
Also, glad I went the composite route with all my through-hulls and backing plates (G10).
Thanks. In CA I’ve noticed lifting boat out is quite a bit more $$ than when I lived in Annapolis, for example. It probably would have cost $1000 to lift out of water and put onto stands in the yard. And by the time you spend that, you might as well line up a few additional projects all at once like bottom paint, etc.
Excellent real world demonstration. Thank you for including us in the complete process!
Box Spanners! Courageous video showing a 'just get it done' spirit. There are many times you just can't pull out your boat, so this is really useful - Thank you! Sad to see a perfectly good nut cut in half just because you couldn't get the purchase you needed to unlock it - I would suggest having a few Box Spanners on board for this purpose - way cheaper than a 2" Socket, way more dependable than ratchet drives, and way less weight. And you can work a second tool down the 'throat'. Safe Travels.
thanks for knowing stuff..
I hope you realize that only a handful of people can do these things
and the rest of us can only watch & learn...even fewer people can jump from the water up onto the dock into a sitting position without also being a sea lion......epic
Extremely informative thanks to Josh a for filming this helpful procedure and Ethan for sharing Knowledge and techniques for repairing the through hole. especially while in the water. All the Very Best to the two of you guys.
great video and good adaptation during the process...
Great video thanks Josh ! Very educational and easy to watch (well edited) cheers mate 👍🏻⚓️
Thanks Josh... I'm still debating on having the thru hulls done or doing them myself. These are good videos to help make the plan to do it!
So educational for an upcoming boat owner.
Great video. Thanks for showing the problems encountered and solutions .
Thanks for showing the details!
excellent video! finally I understood thru holes! :) thanks
This was brilliant. Learning a lot. Thanks to all of you guys.
Great video, liked to fit new ball valve and through tube ,
Very informative, thank you. I definitely learned a lot.
The best takeaway I got from this was Tef-gel. The other takeaway is have a socket that fits the nut and tap the nut around the flats with a pin punch and hammer to free it before even trying to loosen it. Still for a improvised job well done.
I had a similar experience where I had to cut the nut off. Unfortunately I had to pull replace the entire thru-hull because I nicked the threads. I have to say, with my thru-hull job there was a lot more colorful language being used ;). Great videos, keep em coming!
Thanks Sergio!
Interesting video, very instructive.. thank you
In a pinch, you can cut the threads of the thru hull down to just shy of the thread depth inside the ball valve and use it as the nut. Added bonus, less height to lesson the chance of an errant foot snapping the assembly off. That's when you have a real problem!
This guy has brass balls. I would never in a million years try this in the water.
So, to add yet another layer of challenge, my inlet thru hull has a grill which acts as a course filter to stop extraneous matter from jamming the ball valve…which also precludes the conical rubber bung…
The tarp idea sounds useful but then prevents access to secure the thru hull from turning from the outside…so maybe one could fit one of those bungs you screw tighten inside the thru hull from whichever side you aren’t dropping the thin spanner handle or bar to stop it turning?
But very impressive video and excellent attitude to problem solving, no stress, calm cool head is a lesson in itself👍
You could put a toilet plunger on the outside and suction it to the hull to stop water from coming in. But then you have the problem with it turning unless you can hold it from the inside to stop the turning while you remove the nut.
Have your diver use a toilet plunger on out side of hull to prevent water coming in. I have drilled and installed new through hulls as well as replaced damaged ones many times.
You use a toilet plunger on outside? Will it not fell of easely or do you use a diver who holds it all the time?
Wow excellent job done
I would for sure wait until next time on the hard 😊
Really useful video, thanks.
Bold brave and ballsy, fine job
Good video, shows it can be done in emergancy situation (I don't think i'll do that in the water, brave). One thing was strange and that was measuring the roundness of that tool across the flat gaps. :)
I used a potatoe it worrked brilliant
Awesome video, great information, thank you so much 😊.
Very well done and even with the time spent I'd bet it was much cheaper than a hall out...
Very very good job. I gave u a 10 out of ten.
Very interesting. Thanks!
I dont have the guts for that project! I give you credit for remaining calm. You should be a fighter pilot. I notice your shirt sez Lucky😅
Josh is #1!!!
yeah this Ethan guy is crazy calm :)
Just an idea for the crowd.
Paint the threads on the through hul fitting & the nut w anti-sieze.it will delay any corrosion between the nut & fitting.
Also there are anti-sieze products made w copper, instead of aluminum. Copper should prevent corrosion even better.
really good video. thank you.
Thanks!
Good mention as far as tapered threads vs straight. It seems some DIYers think a brass valve from a big box store is direct replacement for the original bronze valve with straight threads on one end and tapered on rhe other.
Thanks very informative !
very inspiring! it was a genius to cut open the nut. but since you already got that far, why not just take out the entire metal thing, and put in a new thru-hull ? much easier to just grind off / cut off the protruding part and punch out the remaining flange.
Riveting video! I've been binge watching your videos because I'm a newbie to the world of sailing and planning to crew on a friend's boat this summer (42 footer). I have to say, this video was so fascinating and intense - like watching a thriller movie. Great editing job 👍 Kudos to both you and Ethan for staying calm when all of that water was flowing in! A beautiful lesson in staying cool under pressure. Also I wanted to say a big "thank you" for creating all of these wonderful videos about sailing life. - very inspiring. Keep up the great work! (p.s. I love the diagrams!! : ) Where's your Patreon link?
Oops! I just saw the Patreon at the end of the video 😅😂
Repairing a thru hull while afloat? HUGE brave pill needed!
And now I know, thank you very much!
Well done!!
If you have it apart, why wouldn’t you replace the whole through hole?
thanks guy you are supa awesum for making vids lik this
Going to replace the two engines seacocks this weekend but I'm having her pulled. What do you use for cutting the bronze treads down to size?
Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸
Great to see that even the pros have problems and need to improvise. Did you edit out the F bombs or is Ethan the most calm guy I've ever seen? Long format was the only way to show the true work that went into it.
Awesome job! S/V Cork
How about sticking/holding a bathroom plunger on the hull over the outside of the fitting to stop the leaking water while putting the goo on? Tighten it up as much you you can, let it all bed down dry, and then take it off and have the diver hold the outside in position for the final gutentight.
Great suggestion...maybe add some vaseline to help the seal. Filing that idea away for thought later.
great. thanks
How much is a diver to stick around all day?
Where do you get those plugs he uses?
Not sure this would work, with all the marine stuff on the hull, but couldn’t that rubber plug be rammed into the hole and then a large suction cup placed over it to help stop the water?
I was thinking the exact same thing! Instead of putting a bung that may not fit snugly enough just put a large cup over the area and let the water pressure hold it to the hull.
Send me the link to his bilge pump please
Thank you for an excellent video. Do you think a tarpaulin pulled up over the bottom of the boat against the through hull might have been as good as the exterior plug pushed up by the diver?
Intresting manoeuvre I certainly don’t think I’d wanna try it,,,does it really save that much cost in not slipping the boat ,considering you’re allready paying out for diver .I was a boatbuilder for 20 years as I pulled some right bodges of but I just feel it’s too much when you could just end up sinking it so easily,i mentioned or my freind as soon as took the cutting disc to the backing nut that I wondered if you allready had a new nut
Excelente trabajo
Yes the take away is have a new nut ready, incase it needs to be cut. Thanks for the struggle, i would have been panicking, trying to modify the tool before my boat sank.
Why wouldn’t you use a socket & impact gun of the modified pipe wrench?
Why doesn't Ludio place some rubber sheet over the mushroom to seal the thruhull?
Ditto to what's already been said, awesome. Just an FYI, you Amazon links are not linking to the items, just to my Amazon account.
Thanks mate. I think I fixed the Amazon links.
I could see doing this in an emergency but not as a part of regular maintenance. If the bronze thruhull is deteriorated, then the ball valve can still break off the threaded end, sinking the boat.
Fantastic job. Maybe you could put a butyl ball in the hole instead of the wedge ....
Be very careful trying this stunt in the water. You have no idea on the condition of the throghhull ( electrol osys). You could end up seperating the inside nut with partially attached corroded through hull, with huge amounts of water coming in. Just because it worked for one person does not mean it will work for you. If you cant lift the boat out, then carren it and do it safely.
A lot easier with the motor taken out. What I am not sure of is why the work and cost to lift the motor just to get at the valve with the boat in the water. Could the valve have been removed with the engine in place, and the boat hauled at a lower price?
The engine was taken out long before. It was not taken out to get to the valve. The owner had taken it out piece by piece to rebuild it in his garage. The valve repair came a lot later. Getting the boat hauled out would not have been very fun. The point was to show that you can do these things while the boat is in the water.
We have installed new thru hulls by using a diver with a large toilet plunger with the new t/hull inside with 5200 on it, drill a small hole first so the diver can find it, then drill the correct hole then reach in the plunger with a wire and pull the t/h on the hole ,backing and nut and valve
Toilet plunger! Or new boat gadget invention.
Not sure but have you considered - 1. Deep well sockets and 2. Cleaning the inside of the through hole?
The only argument I have with his method, is that he is using the wrench on the "top" of the ball valve where there is nothing to keep the wrench from squeezing the ball valve out of shape. I was always taught to put the wrench where there is a pipe going into the threads, to keep from ruining the valve. Had he put the wrench on the bottom, where the thru hull is going into the valve, he would be more safely able to turn the valve. Sometimes there isn't room, and maybe that's the case here, but I thought I'd point it out.
He had 2 wrenches one on bottom and one on top
Why did you not also remove the mushroom from the outside and reseal it at the same time. Unnecessary?
Thanks. He felt the mushroom part was still in pretty good condition and it would have been quite an added challenge to put sealant on the outside. That’s probably a better project for when boat is out of the water, but it could have been done if absolutely necessary.
Jesus. My nerves. This is my worst nightmare, and you're all so calm there with the water rushing in and things not working the way you planned o.O
I mean, of course once in the situation you keep a level head but goddamn.
WoW! A simple cap would have saved some stress and pannic
Putting thread compound on the female thread of the ball valve VS the male thread of the through hull drives the compound right into the ball valve
Why not take it out for the day , fix it and back in? Probably not that much more expensive compared to having a diver around and a lot less nerverecking
boat living really needs lots of hands on work!
I wondered about using a large socket and extension to get additional leverage, rather than cutting the nut.
Why is this spacer made of wood? Why is it not made of a plastic material? In your other video where you replaced the valve in your toilet, there seemed to be no spacer at all. Why is this through hole made with a spacer when the one for the toilet is not?
Run a line around the hull that the diver can brace himself against.
When their didn’t have the correct sized plug locking socket I would have backed out for another contractor.