Cookie Slab Coffee Table - Oak
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2024
- I sell selected items on Etsy: creatoriq.cc/3KJkieJ
I made a live edge coffee table out of an oak cookie slab. Read more about this wood here: www.wood-database.com/english....
0:00 Intro
0:31 Flattening the slab
0:50 Working on the edges
1:03 Pouring the epoxy resin
1:39 Removing excess epoxy resin
2:01 Sanding
2:16 Coating
2:53 Attaching steel legs
3:00 Photos of the finished table
More about the power tools and materials I use: bit.ly/401tKyv
Welcome to my woodworking channel. I am passionate about taking the most wonderful woods mother nature created and turning them into beautiful objects of day to day use. This is not a DIY channel about teaching the woodworking craft, showing you new and nifty techniques about how to build wooden objects or anything alike. It’s about celebrating nature’s beauty and providing inspiration for projects of your own.
Thanks for your support!
Alternative wood names: Oak, Quercus Alba, Roble, Chêne, Quercia, Eiche - Навчання та стиль
This table arrived well packaged and on time. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxn94T8Mu1iMnsLCMNOI9srXSsLkI4JXKW Like another reviewer advised, I pulled everything out and made sure everything was included (everything was!). I built it alone and it took me about an hour. The color is great and for the price the lift part works well. As others have mentioned, it’s not the smoothest opening/closing, but it works. The screws do show, but I plan to order white sticker covers if that bothers us too much. Really happy with this table! UPDATE: it’s been over a year since we got this coffee table and we still love it! It gets HEAVY use as our dining table, foot rest, and school desk. Over time, the opening and closing mechanism has gotten smoother. I added a new photo with the white screw cover stickers. They blend in perfectly and make it look a little cleaner. 100% recommend!!!
Thank you - and yes, it took some time, but I have done way more labour intensive projects than this one...
very satisfied with this product
Отличное видео! Благодарю
🙏🏼👊🏼
This table is very stylish.
Thank you, glad you like it
Wooow!😍Good job👍👏👏👏👏
Thank you 🙏❤️🤩
Thank you 🙏❤️🤩
so nice.
Thank you 🤩
I want one too! 😃😎
Don’t tempt me! I will make you one immediately 😂😂😂
Wooden fact is, I do have something in mind that I would actually need 😃
Now we are talking! I am all ear!!!
Un trabajo muy bonito.......una manera de introducir decadas y decadas de crecimiento para que cobren vida nuevamente en un Hogar..........Felicitaciones Maquina. Ein sehr netter Job ....... ein Weg, Jahrzehnte und Jahrzehnte des Wachstums in einem Heim wieder zum Leben zu erwecken .......... Herzlichen Glückwunsch!
Gracias Maquina. Saludos a Valencia. Espero que esten bien 😀
Wunderschöne Arbeit. Wir wollen das demnächst auch versuchen. 🙏🏼😅
Vielen dank für die netten Worte :D Macht das unbedingt, das macht richtig Spass. Hier habe ich ein Video das dir Schritt für Schritt zeigt, wie man das mit wenig Elektrowerkzeugen machen kann: ua-cam.com/video/qVlbgRKXt38/v-deo.html
@@Woodensoul Super, danke dir! :)
Cool,,,,abo
I'm interested in creating something similar to this. Did you use dead wood or green? Did you need to check for the moisture content prior to starting the project or does it not matter?
Hi Joseph. Glad you want to try it out. You absolutely should use dry wood, not green/fresh wood. The reason for this is that fresh wood dries out, and in the process of drying, it will twist and crack. So if you use fresh wood, it will look nice initially, but after that it will warp and crack and be horrible. You should buy a dry slab. A rule of thumb is that it takes 1 year for 1cm of wood to dry (from each side that is exposed to the air). So eg. if you have a 6cm thick slab, it will take about three years to be dry. If you buy a "kiln dried" slab, it was dried in an oven, that means the drying process was sped up. That works too, but those slabs usually have more cracks because of the speed of drying out. You can measure the wood moisture if you have such a device, and ideally the moisture should be around 12-14% if you will have it in a normal heated room. If you plan to have it outside, the moisture level should be higher.
why do you take the bark off? is it a matter of preference or is there a real reason for removing it. I like the look of bark on the edge.
I like bark too. The problem with bark is, that it dries out differently then the wood, so usually after a couple of months it will peel off anyway. You can try to prevent that with wood glue or epoxy resin, like I did on this table (ua-cam.com/video/m80oViX71rk/v-deo.html), but it’s messy, work intensive and risky...
Was the epoxy just for filling the cracks? Then planned and sanding the top back down to the wood surface?
Hey Steven. Yes, for filling the cracks but also for sealing the end grain. You can learn about the details here: Flood your end grain (cookie) slabs with epoxy resin
ua-cam.com/video/miIwjI479_A/v-deo.html
Класс.
Спасибо
Man that was so nice. How did you measure the placement of the 3 legs? Or did you just eyeball it?
Thank you, man, appreciate your kind words. Honestly, I usually just eyeball it. If you want to be precise, you can split a circle into three. There are many videos on UA-cam showing you how to do this...
@@Woodensoul cool thank you. Did you flood the slab in one stage? Any issue with bubbles? I’ve got a similar slab and I’m not sure if I should pour the resin in one go.
@@freestyla101 Yes, I do flood the slab (I show why and how in this video: ua-cam.com/video/miIwjI479_A/v-deo.html). Regarding bubbles: You can have bubbles with a thin pour or a thick pour. The elements that generate the most bubbles are either the bark, or very thin but deep cracks. I recommend you do the following: 1) tape all cracks and holes, 2) pour a thin layer, to verify you have no leaks and let it cure well, 3) pour the rest, but verify your epoxy resin can be poured that tick (I use cheap resin that has a maximum height of 1cm, so I pour multiple layers always), 4) observe the pour, and if you see bubbles, then use a heat gun to remove them. One last note: If you pour over bark, I recommend applying first a thin layer over the bark using a brush. That seals the bark and reduces the chance of bubbles... Have fun!
@@Woodensoul great info!! I needed that! thanks for the great video
@@TinoBamBeano Most welcome, Tino 😁 Have fun building 🎉🎉
Hi there,
what is the purpose of epoxy ? fill in the gaps of timber ?
Hi! Yes, exactly, that is one purpose, to close all cracks and holes that the wood has, due to the drying process. The second purpose is to seal off the end grain. I explain this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/miIwjI479_A/v-deo.html
Wow! Any tips for someone with virtually NO equipment?? Is it necessary to flood with epoxy for that high gloss shine, or can you use a different (cheaper) coating for the whole thing and the edges? Looking for a more DIY, less professional project that will still last a while.
Thanks Yelena ♥️ The answers to all your questions are in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qVlbgRKXt38/v-deo.html - it’s long but it should cover everything you need to make such a table with almost no power tools…
I love your work and the finish you create. I'm getting ready to finish my 16" thick red oak "cookie" and was wondering why you first epoxy coat, epoxy float, then plane and then coat with mono. I have leveled it using a router sled and have it sanded down to 100. Can I fill my voids and seal coat with epoxy, sand then apply mono? Is the flood epoxy coat necessary?
Hi Bryan. Thank you for your kind words. I float cookie slabs due to two reasons: 1) cookie slabs are end grain, and therefore there are many small cracks across the slab. When you plane the slab, the risk of small pieces being ripped off in the planer is larger. If you flat the slab before planing, the epoxy holds the wood together. 2) End grain is very thirsty, that means it soaks in the coat very quickly due to all the cracks and holes. If you flood the slab before after planing (and sand after floating) you create a smoother surface which you can coat more evenly. I think you can totally go without floating before planing to save costs (I often don't float before planing), but I highly recommend floating after planing, to get a nice finish. Hope that helps... Have fun with your red oak :D
Thanks, but i am unable to plane due to the size and weight of the slab, it's a monster. So without being able plane it what would you suggest? Here is a picture of it www.dropbox.com/s/5agteb9dxruq8r2/IMG_20201031_171906_01.jpg?dl=0
@@bryanfriedel5480 Oh wow - a huge and beautiful slab! Congrats! So here is what I would recommend: Plane it with our router sled and sand it (seems like you did that already). Now flood it with epoxy resin and let it cure well. Then sand it down with 80, 120, 180 and 240. Apply one coat of Rubio Monocoat with a brush (not with a rag) quickly (it will soak in fast). Repeat that last step 1-2 more times, depending how thirsty your slab is. With that procedure liquid stains should also be easier to remove (as the liquid won't be able to soak in that quickly).
@@Woodensoul Awesome! Thanks so much for your help. I'll send you some pics when I'm finished
@@bryanfriedel5480 Oh yes, please do send pictures, and have fun with your beautiful lady (slab) :D
Making one out of spalted ash as we speak
NIIIICE!!! Enjoy, there is nothing more satisfying than creating your own stuff 🤩
How did you dry the slab?
I always try to buy dry slabs. If you bought one that is not dry, you have two options: 1) bring it to a place that can kiln-dry it for you (they put it in a low-temp oven for a couple of weeks), or you wait for it to air-dry (rule of thumb: 1cm per year from each side of the slab; faster if in a heated room).
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@@Woodensoul Or, you use Pentacryl on the green wood to stabilize it. ;)
@@PreservationSolutions I don't know pentacryl. What is that? Sounds heavily chemical. Is that nice to your wood?
@@Woodensoul Pentacryl is a stabilizer for green wood (with a moisture content above 25-30%). It is popular for use on wood cookies, because as you already know, this type of cut is the most challenging to stabilize. Up to 90% of the drying in green wood occurs in the end grain and since wood cookies are 100% end grain on both sides, they dry super fast. Also the round cut of wood cookies has a lot of tension on the outer rim and the wood will want to crack from the outside in towards the pith to relieve that tension (like a pie shaped crack).
Pentacryl works by displacing the moisture/water in green wood. It leaves a thin coating on the wood cell walls which prevents them from shrinking as they dry, thus significantly reducing the cracking and checking.
Pentacryl speeds the air drying by approx. 30% since it is "using" the water out, however, it still needs to dry slowly and controlled. Thank you for showing wood cookie finishing steps - especially on larger pieces.
You cheated !
Most home games don't have a plainer that big, I would love to have one in stead of always having to use a router with a home made jig.
Great video and nice table. 😊
Yes, I admit that almost cheating 😆 I am so lucky I can use that planer (it’s not mine) and it makes it so much faster than doing the router jig. Thanks for your kind words, glad you liked it...
Was the epoxy just to seal the table?
Yes, correct, and to close the cracks
@@Woodensoul Did you use the mixing ratio specified on the bottles? How much epoxy did you end up using for this? Great table - I'm building one like it as I type...
Yes, always, always use the ratio provided on the bottles. If you deviate from that, the epoxy won’t cure (ever), it will ruin your workpiece completely. Be very exact when measuring and mix it really well (rule of thumb I use: 1 minute of strong hand mixing for 0.5 liters). I can‘t remember exactly how much I used for this table, but it should have been between 0.5 and 1 liters in total. Have fun with your table - I am sure it will turn out fantastic!
@@Woodensoul Yes, I'm still waiting for it to "dry." Thank you!!
@@woodant7 Waiting for the slab to dry, or the epoxy resin?
What do I do if I don’t have all the toys to do??
Hi. Here are step by step instructions for how to do this without heavy machinery: Create your cookie slab coffee table with (almost) no power tools: Step by step instructions
ua-cam.com/video/qVlbgRKXt38/v-deo.html
Ashke
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Was für ein Holz ist das?
Das ist Eiche
@@Woodensoul danke Dir 🙏 ist sehr gut geworden 👍
Gerne, und danke fürs Kompliment. Du bekommst solche Baumscheiben günstig auf ebay.de (diese war ca. 25€). In meinen Videos steht übrigens immer in der Beschreibung um was für Holz es sich handelt. Viel Spass 😎
The subjects covered in this woodworking website *TopFineWoodworking. Com* varies from wood types to tool types and uses. A few other subjects range from the various kinds of wood along with their distinct levels of difficulty when it comes to managing them. If you are still a beginner in wood working, then you will find this book very beneficial.
lol, that tape didn't work out the way you had planned huh?
😆 absolutely not, it was a mess!
Babbling again!! Wtf?