Something you didn't specify but which is important when reassembling the throttle body to the engine is to make sure both mating surfaces and the metal gasket are super clean beforehand, especially as it uses a metal gasket which is not easily compressible. Otherwise, you could have a tiny induction leak which would play havoc with the correct running of the engine.
I am having random error codes on my D5- different ones every time and often they relate to circuit issues for various components and I am thinking this wiring loom might be damaged somewhere. I am going to have a close inspection here. Also have the oil leak from the nipple as in your other video so will do that fix as well as it is leaking oil over the heater/temp sensor. Please make more diesel videos!
Just got me a 2008 s80 with 2.4d engine. I subscribed to your chanel, after this video you are my main info on UA-cam for car work. :)) hope to find a video on swirl flaps replacement/repair.
Great and helpful video. Thanks. I noticed that the part number for the throttle body gasket is not mentioned anywhere so in case anyone needs it, here it is - Volvo OEM part number 30757766
Hi so im fine using brake cleaner or carb cleaner on both the egr and throttle body. I only ask as I have seen so many videos saying not to use them but i cant see if matter if its wiped off. Plus no where close to me stocks throttle body cleaner only carb/air intake cleaner and brake cleaner.
Hello and thank you for your videos. Always well done and helpful. My car (D5 2012) is lacking peak power so I bought a Liqui Moly throttle and EGR cleaner (5111). This product is supposed to be applied before the throttle body. On some cars it looks very simple, much more than on our engine... Do you know if I can apply it without disassembling the air filter etc? If I apply it after the MAF do you think it will reach the throttle body? Thanks for your advise.
P0172 on a 2011 s60 t6 do you have any idea what’s a common issue with that after the vehicles warmed up rough idle and sometimes turns off when stopped
Great video. May I ask at what km it is worth to change the EGR valve? My Volvo V70 D5 2009 is having 300.000 km. Time to change it or a simple cleaning with Liqui Moly diesel intake cleaning is sufficient?
Great video! I'll do this work in my D5, with 140.000 km (XC70 2013). Sometimes it have P046C (EGR position sensor failure), could it be related with a dirty EGR valve? Thanks. Greetings from Chile.
Great video! I have a D3 engine that goes in to limp mode after no response från the gas pedal (recurring, sometimes the gas pedal works fine). I have replaced the throttle body and the gas pedal. Maybe vibrations in the wiring loom can cause lost connection between ecu and throttle body? The code says no signal TPS (throttle position sensor)
Can the main battery safely be disconnected while the start/stop battery stays in place? And is there a procedure that must be done after connecting the battery again? Something with vida or learning procedure?
Hello! I really like your videos you are great! I would like to ask you something. I have a volvo S60 ( 2012 ) and i have the alarm 161. Do you know what does it mean? Do you know where can i find online a store with original pieces for this car? Thank you!!
Great video :) Do i need to reprograming throttle body after removing it from car with VIDA or just connect battery and it will run ? Thank you very much :)
Hi, I like your videos, I don't know if my dealer would do that and how much it would cost (mostly the EGR cleaning not the electrical wire part that you did) If you have any idea, I'd like to have an rough estimation... I'm thinking trying Terraclean cleaning solution. That or the LiquiMoly products that prevents disassembling... Have you heard of Terraclean? Have you tested the LiquiMoly EGR cleaners? Last question, did you feel any difference when driving the car after cleaning the EGR? Thanks. Greetings from France.
ok thaanks for your answer. I modified my message before seeing your answer... I was wondering if you had tested some LiquiMoly products dedicated to clean the EGR without disassembling... that or another brand...? I'm sure doing it by hand is more efficient but since I don't have the skill/tools/bravery to do it I'm looking for testimonies on how useful/useless it is... Thanks for your comments.
I have general question or anyone who owns these or any volvo's w/ this transmission, e.g. XC60, as to the automatic transmission's durability, especially in cold temp's/areas, and in hot weather as well. There are reports of issues in both very cold and very hot ambient temp situations or lifestyles.
The engine is called Volvo D5, because it is a 5-cylinder Diesel engine. The cars are then marketed as D3, D4 and D5 depending on the performance, they even changed the output of D3 vs D4 over the years. But it is the same base engine. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_D5_engine so you are not going to have an EGR issue on the D4 but not on the D5 if they are both driven with same conditions.
..Are you out and drive in the desert? Haha. There's so much dust again, not so long ago since you cleaned the engine room with an high pressure water-gun. Ok.
I like all the videos this guy does but why doesn't he answer questions people are asking. Seems odd to go to all the trouble to make and post a video and then not answer questions his followers have. I also have a question but I won't hold my breath waiting for an answer. Is this throttle body the same as what's on my 2010 XC60 D5 151 kW?
How to solve the problem... from starting. Comment my Mercedes - Benz Blue TEC diesel has similar problem. The first real issue, in either case, is potential for vacuum leak and creating a code or drivability problems due to that. The second issue is much more serious that is the oil leakage, caused as this from the positive crankcase vent "PCV" for the engine. Now forever all PCV systems have caused oil to enter into the inlet of the engine... any engine where the PCV system causes crankcase gas to be drawn into the inlet of the engine. The the oil leaking from the rod bearings and sprayed on the underside of the pistons in the crankcase becomes entrained as a mist with the crankcase gas by the pumping action in the crankcase. The crankcase gas is from the blow-by caused the piston rings sealing normal leakage, and air vented into the crankcase. When the PCV system draws the gas and oil mist into the intake system this creates first the benefit of the engine burning the resulting toxic gases and oil mist resulting in reduced emissions, approximately 1/2 the total emissions from the engine. But it also creates the problem of contaminating Mass Airflow sensors, with oil either preventing them from working, damaging them or ruining them. And in modern highly emission controlled engines it is made worse because of hot and soot filled Exhaust Gas Recirculation EGR is introduced into the inlet manifold to create the problem of sludge and coking of the oil. The sludge, coking of oil, and grit is formed by the oil from the PCV system; the soot in the exhaust gas in the EGR gases, and; the heat from the EGR gases creating the sludge, coking, abrasive particles, and hard black deposits found in modern car inlet manifolds, and on the inlet port and valve surfaces. From research I was involved in about 30 years ago we found than by removing either any one of the causes prevented these problems... removing either soot [unburned or incompletely burned hydrocarbons], oil [wet hydrocarbon that tends to stick to the soot] or the heat from the exhaust gas solves the problem, the heat must not exceed even the comparatively low temperature of 125 degrees C. The oil is easiest to remove by using a coalescing filter or catch can combination to remove the oil mist. It is hard to remove the heat. Removing the soot is impossible!
Something you didn't specify but which is important when reassembling the throttle body to the engine is to make sure both mating surfaces and the metal gasket are super clean beforehand, especially as it uses a metal gasket which is not easily compressible. Otherwise, you could have a tiny induction leak which would play havoc with the correct running of the engine.
You should’ve seen my EGR valve, it was totally Blocked. It took me eight hours to clean.
Keep up the good videos 👍👍
8 hours ;)
With a Swedish coffee break in between😆
@@TheNitroGeneral 🤣🤣🤣
Fantastic video! I was about to take my XC70 to a mechanic to get this done, but I’m going to do it myself now 👍🏻
I am having random error codes on my D5- different ones every time and often they relate to circuit issues for various components and I am thinking this wiring loom might be damaged somewhere. I am going to have a close inspection here. Also have the oil leak from the nipple as in your other video so will do that fix as well as it is leaking oil over the heater/temp sensor. Please make more diesel videos!
Great video, my D4 has the EGR light just come on , now I know where to find it. Regards from Scotland.
Nice and useful video such as the others! Would you make a video about the removal and cleaning of the egr cooler?
As usual a well detailed and easy to follow video.
Many thanks.
Thnx for great video! Did all does steps yesterday on my diesel volvo! Keep up the good work with your videos!
Хорошо когда есть свой гараж или место где можно это сделать ) Nice job mate )
Cool video dude, I assemble EGR-modules onto the engine at work, (volvo assembly plant)
Nice!..... wish to visit Volvo factory.
Jacobski D5 doesnt need work imho...only D4
J A S P E R What are you talking about? :s
Jacobski best to leave D5 alone...
J A S P E R So you dont want the egr module on it? Is that what you mean? All the engines have egr, even petrol. It is a good thing.
Very good informative video. It'll be interesting to see what the EGR valve looks like on my aunts v50 with 420000 kms on it :)
Just got me a 2008 s80 with 2.4d engine. I subscribed to your chanel, after this video you are my main info on UA-cam for car work. :)) hope to find a video on swirl flaps replacement/repair.
I am also looking for a swirl flaps repair/cleaning video.
Great and helpful video. Thanks.
I noticed that the part number for the throttle body gasket is not mentioned anywhere so in case anyone needs it, here it is - Volvo OEM part number 30757766
I was just looking for that, thanks for providing the part code 👍
Great video thank you guys!! Extremely useful and helpful. Kudos
Another great video. Thank you.
Another great informative video. So much detail. Many thanks for sharing ;)
Hi so im fine using brake cleaner or carb cleaner on both the egr and throttle body. I only ask as I have seen so many videos saying not to use them but i cant see if matter if its wiped off. Plus no where close to me stocks throttle body cleaner only carb/air intake cleaner and brake cleaner.
Great video! How many miles was that EGR used before cleaning?
It's d5. You said d4. Useful video. Mine has egr blanked ;) together with dpf. No problem then.
Pav W
The D4 engine is basically the same as the D5 but with a lower power output.
D4 add is a 2.4 twin turbo aswel
Still no problem with the egr blanked?
@@keonfosho no
Best decision made
Great video, but we wanted you to show us how to remove egr valve, not just cleaning it. Thank you
Could you make a video where you deactivate the AGR valve ?
Hello and thank you for your videos. Always well done and helpful. My car (D5 2012) is lacking peak power so I bought a Liqui Moly throttle and EGR cleaner (5111). This product is supposed to be applied before the throttle body. On some cars it looks very simple, much more than on our engine... Do you know if I can apply it without disassembling the air filter etc? If I apply it after the MAF do you think it will reach the throttle body? Thanks for your advise.
P0172 on a 2011 s60 t6 do you have any idea what’s a common issue with that after the vehicles warmed up rough idle and sometimes turns off when stopped
Great video. May I ask at what km it is worth to change the EGR valve? My Volvo V70 D5 2009 is having 300.000 km. Time to change it or a simple cleaning with Liqui Moly diesel intake cleaning is sufficient?
Very usefull video! Thank you for sharing your experince!
Any idea why would the idle drop to 500 rpm when coming to a stop only to climb back to 800 rpm right away ? On gasoline non turbo engine
Great video! I'll do this work in my D5, with 140.000 km (XC70 2013). Sometimes it have P046C (EGR position sensor failure), could it be related with a dirty EGR valve? Thanks. Greetings from Chile.
Great video! I have a D3 engine that goes in to limp mode after no response från the gas pedal (recurring, sometimes the gas pedal works fine). I have replaced the throttle body and the gas pedal. Maybe vibrations in the wiring loom can cause lost connection between ecu and throttle body? The code says no signal TPS (throttle position sensor)
Can the main battery safely be disconnected while the start/stop battery stays in place? And is there a procedure that must be done after connecting the battery again? Something with vida or learning procedure?
Dzięki bardzo przydatny film
Hello! I really like your videos you are great! I would like to ask you something. I have a volvo S60 ( 2012 ) and i have the alarm 161. Do you know what does it mean? Do you know where can i find online a store with original pieces for this car?
Thank you!!
흡기청소 하려고 하는데 도움이 많이 되었어요. ^^
That torttle body wasn't bad I've taken ones off you couldn't see tru them
Maybe someday you'll be exchanging swirl. 😉
it aint got one
Very useful video. Tank you!
Can you tell us more about the "tape with a material" ? The metal protection on my DPF cables is in bad condition. (V50 1.6D 2006)
Look in hardware store. It's a tape with felt material. I am sure you can use some kind of alternative to it.
A very old reply do probably no use now but it’s loom tape. Easy to get on Amazon or eBay if you can’t source it locally at a motor supplies
It’s the same on a d5 v50 ?!?
One question Yuri, how do I recognize that the problem comes from the wires? What are the symptoms of that glitch?
The engine would just stall. A bunch of sensors would disconnect. Common with many owners.
Does the glitch also occur in D5244T15?
Any latest diesel Volvo engine.
Thanks a lot!
Great video :) Do i need to reprograming throttle body after removing it from car with VIDA or just connect battery and it will run ? Thank you very much :)
Just switch the key to on 2 or 3 times before turning the engine over that will reset it
U did not show us hkw it works after...
Video excellent
Has anyone cleaned the carbon off the manifold on this engine? I am thinking of doing it, but I am not sure it makes sense or not?
Is it possible to clean the TB with brake cleaner spray?
Yes it is, just make sure to dry it beforehand.
You want to use oven cleaner spray
Hi, I like your videos, I don't know if my dealer would do that and how much it would cost (mostly the EGR cleaning not the electrical wire part that you did) If you have any idea, I'd like to have an rough estimation... I'm thinking trying Terraclean cleaning solution. That or the LiquiMoly products that prevents disassembling... Have you heard of Terraclean? Have you tested the LiquiMoly EGR cleaners? Last question, did you feel any difference when driving the car after cleaning the EGR? Thanks. Greetings from France.
I have not heard of that. No difference after.
ok thaanks for your answer. I modified my message before seeing your answer... I was wondering if you had tested some LiquiMoly products dedicated to clean the EGR without disassembling... that or another brand...? I'm sure doing it by hand is more efficient but since I don't have the skill/tools/bravery to do it I'm looking for testimonies on how useful/useless it is... Thanks for your comments.
I think cleaning physically is the best result.
Cool but where is link to gasket? i looking for gasket to s80 2.4D (2007) 163hp is the same?
Volvo OEM part number 30757766
www.buycarparts.co.uk/oen/30757766?&gadw=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA2fjjBRAjEiwAuewS_S_LfkT-DPLnya967IZsn4kho3FoOD7oHffohy_4z3sBh5KNzNAJyRoCFm0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Does anyone have expirience with EGR OFF on 151kw D5???
I have general question or anyone who owns these or any volvo's w/ this transmission, e.g. XC60, as to the automatic transmission's durability, especially in cold temp's/areas, and in hot weather as well. There are reports of issues in both very cold and very hot ambient temp situations or lifestyles.
Great thanks
You are wrong! Always disconnect the negative lead!
I thought only the D4 has often trouble with limp mode. Not the D5. Correct?
What I am trying to say is that the self build in cleaning of the EGR causes limp mode? Correct?
The engine is called Volvo D5, because it is a 5-cylinder Diesel engine. The cars are then marketed as D3, D4 and D5 depending on the performance, they even changed the output of D3 vs D4 over the years. But it is the same base engine. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_D5_engine so you are not going to have an EGR issue on the D4 but not on the D5 if they are both driven with same conditions.
Hi!! Then I guess this applies to a xc60 D3 drive?
Yes
..Are you out and drive in the desert? Haha. There's so much dust again, not so long ago since you cleaned the engine room with an high pressure water-gun. Ok.
Mgimo finished
I like all the videos this guy does but why doesn't he answer questions people are asking. Seems odd to go to all the trouble to make and post a video and then not answer questions his followers have. I also have a question but I won't hold my breath waiting for an answer. Is this throttle body the same as what's on my 2010 XC60 D5 151 kW?
I can't physically answer all. UA-cam is my Hobby and I am not a mechanic. So please understand. To answer your question, I honestly don't know.
@@volvosweden thanks for the reply. Yeah I think mine is euro 5 so probably different. Love your videos. Cheers Shayne
Long time no see, I thought Putin had dragged you back to Russia :D
Working on my Volvos and doing videos is my hobby and not income. I have plans to visit Putin soon. ;)
lol say Hi from me ;)
How to solve the problem... from starting.
Comment my Mercedes - Benz Blue TEC diesel has similar problem.
The first real issue, in either case, is potential for vacuum leak and creating a code or drivability problems due to that.
The second issue is much more serious that is the oil leakage, caused as this from the positive crankcase vent "PCV" for the engine. Now forever all PCV systems have caused oil to enter into the inlet of the engine... any engine where the PCV system causes crankcase gas to be drawn into the inlet of the engine. The the oil leaking from the rod bearings and sprayed on the underside of the pistons in the crankcase becomes entrained as a mist with the crankcase gas by the pumping action in the crankcase. The crankcase gas is from the blow-by caused the piston rings sealing normal leakage, and air vented into the crankcase. When the PCV system draws the gas and oil mist into the intake system this creates first the benefit of the engine burning the resulting toxic gases and oil mist resulting in reduced emissions, approximately 1/2 the total emissions from the engine. But it also creates the problem of contaminating Mass Airflow sensors, with oil either preventing them from working, damaging them or ruining them. And in modern highly emission controlled engines it is made worse because of hot and soot filled Exhaust Gas Recirculation EGR is introduced into the inlet manifold to create the problem of sludge and coking of the oil. The sludge, coking of oil, and grit is formed by the oil from the PCV system; the soot in the exhaust gas in the EGR gases, and; the heat from the EGR gases creating the sludge, coking, abrasive particles, and hard black deposits found in modern car inlet manifolds, and on the inlet port and valve surfaces.
From research I was involved in about 30 years ago we found than by removing either any one of the causes prevented these problems... removing either soot [unburned or incompletely burned hydrocarbons], oil [wet hydrocarbon that tends to stick to the soot] or the heat from the exhaust gas solves the problem, the heat must not exceed even the comparatively low temperature of 125 degrees C. The oil is easiest to remove by using a coalescing filter or catch can combination to remove the oil mist. It is hard to remove the heat. Removing the soot is impossible!