If it wasn't obvious enough, don't go out and buy a laser JUST to remove rust! 😂 The F1 is pretty cool for all it's other features like engraving and cutting, but removing rust is a fun bonus! Evapo-Rust and electrolysis will always be more economical if you're just looking to remove rust.
I'm glad you're getting sponsorship, but don't let those sponsors fool you! They can get in the way sometimes, and can be annoying for some of us viewers lol! I would say Evaporust would be the best choice. It can get expensive, but can be reused over and over again. Even Hand Tool Rescue loves the stuff!
Finally!! This is the type of experiment we all wanted, but never thought to ask for. Big question here: how much does your electric meter spin when you use the laser? That definitely needs to be accounted for.
Yup! I'd easily recommend Evapo-Rust to anyone, beginner to expert. Electrolysis is as good but a little scarier with water and electricity and not everyone has the space for a setup like that!
technically you could do etching with electrolysis and stainless steel....competitor 4; muriatic (hydrochloric HCL) acid....you make a good counterpoint....BUT LASER!
I've had some really beautiful etching results with salt water and Q-tips with my electrolysis setup! HCl is definitely another contender...but safety....but have you considered LASER?
Vinegar is my number one choice. It is very cheap, reuseable and safe to use. I used to use a HCL, and it is an excellent rust killer, but it damages the chrome plating within several minutes.
Hadn't seen anyone using a laser for rust removal, and wouldn't have thought of trying that, so thanks for the comparison. For my work I need to remove rust and mill scale from steel before forging, and I've found vinegar or muriatic acid to be the most effective. Wouldn't want to try using a laser on some of the big pieces of steel I work with!
There are some seriously massive industrial lasers for rust and paint removal, but it's still pretty niche! Acids, chelation (Evapo-Rust), or electrolysis still seem to be the gold standard for cheapest rust removal.
What's not to love about a laser?! The only real drawback with the laser is the price tag and ability to remove rust on large things that you could easily dunk in a drum with Evaporust or electrolysis.
I'd still go with the Evapo-Rust it cost the lest of the three. The Laser did the best but cost the most out of the three way more!! Over 2K I enjoyed your video so I gave it a Thumbs Up
The plus for the laser is the other things you can do with it. The drawback is the price. The restorers I watch tend to use EvapoRust or electrolysis. Some use a sandblast cabinet, but those can be a bit more spendy than some can afford. Thanks for doing the comparison. 👍
Retired metallurgist and blacksmith here. Don't use hot blueing on critical components as red heat removes temper and leaves hard steel in its softest state. Cold blueing is an excellent substitute which is easy to find in a gunstore or chemical supplier. The nut is now softer and will have a reduced service life, but still probably many years.
I am also a metallurgist (in the steel industry specifically), always nice to meet another in the wild! If you check out some of my other videos you'll see I use both hot and cold bluing from time to time, almost exclusively just for the aesthetics and on small, non-critical components. The nut actually felt relatively low hardness prior to hot bluing, I'm not sure it's a specially hardened part. In any case, thanks for the tips! One of these days I'm hoping to do a few videos on old tool metallurgy (microstructures, hardness, chemical composition, etc) but as you can imagine it's not cheap trying to recreate my day job's full met lab at home! Landing a metallurgical scope under $1000 has been a hurdle so far! 😂
@@CatalystRestorations Thank you for the heads up on the nut's hardness, I was only guessing. My metallurgy is of the kitchen sink chemistry style at the moment, hence my hesitation to remove existing hardening in old tools. Hardening and tempering can be done with moderate success under these conditions but without any real accuracy. I'm not even going to try to build a metallurgical lab as I would not use it enough to compensate the cost. Beautiful restoration, by the way!
Lasers with guns (not this portable type) are convenient for removing rust from very large items. Some larger lasers can be moved to a worksite and used on items in situ: you aren’t going to be using Evapo-rust on a school boiler or the rails of a hospital staircase.
If it wasn't obvious enough, don't go out and buy a laser JUST to remove rust! 😂 The F1 is pretty cool for all it's other features like engraving and cutting, but removing rust is a fun bonus!
Evapo-Rust and electrolysis will always be more economical if you're just looking to remove rust.
I am just asking have you heard about a wire brush it works much faster than electrodes is or vapour rust😂😂
The clicky-clacky of the alligator clip made me very happy. Gotta test it out make sure it clicks AND clacks
Mandatory. Same goes for BBQ tongs. Otherwise straight to jail.
I'm glad you're getting sponsorship, but don't let those sponsors fool you! They can get in the way sometimes, and can be annoying for some of us viewers lol!
I would say Evaporust would be the best choice. It can get expensive, but can be reused over and over again. Even Hand Tool Rescue loves the stuff!
Evapo-Rust or electrolysis for rust removal alllllll the way!
@@CatalystRestorations you got it
Finally!! This is the type of experiment we all wanted, but never thought to ask for.
Big question here: how much does your electric meter spin when you use the laser? That definitely needs to be accounted for.
Great question, I'll try to measure it and report back! It's probably more than electrolysis though if I had to guess.
Interesting and fun to watch. My vote goes to Evapo-Rust.
Yup! I'd easily recommend Evapo-Rust to anyone, beginner to expert. Electrolysis is as good but a little scarier with water and electricity and not everyone has the space for a setup like that!
technically you could do etching with electrolysis and stainless steel....competitor 4; muriatic (hydrochloric HCL) acid....you make a good counterpoint....BUT LASER!
I've had some really beautiful etching results with salt water and Q-tips with my electrolysis setup! HCl is definitely another contender...but safety....but have you considered LASER?
Great job. Restoration and filming
Thank you, Paul!
Great restoration 👍👍
Thank you!
Vinegar is my number one choice.
It is very cheap, reuseable and safe to use.
I used to use a HCL, and it is an excellent rust killer, but it damages the chrome plating within several minutes.
HCL also removes every type of paint, even an oil-based paints.
Vinegar is a great choice! I wouldn't recommend any acid stronger than that, for sure!
Hadn't seen anyone using a laser for rust removal, and wouldn't have thought of trying that, so thanks for the comparison. For my work I need to remove rust and mill scale from steel before forging, and I've found vinegar or muriatic acid to be the most effective. Wouldn't want to try using a laser on some of the big pieces of steel I work with!
There are some seriously massive industrial lasers for rust and paint removal, but it's still pretty niche! Acids, chelation (Evapo-Rust), or electrolysis still seem to be the gold standard for cheapest rust removal.
Interesante comparación, todo puede depender de la pieza.
Como siempre excelente trabajo, gracias.
Sigue adelante.
Thanks!
Evaporust is expensive. Start up costs on electrolysis can be high but this lazer thing looks a winner... providing it has a decent lifespan.
What's not to love about a laser?! The only real drawback with the laser is the price tag and ability to remove rust on large things that you could easily dunk in a drum with Evaporust or electrolysis.
Cool experiment!
Thanks Mathew! Always fun to work with lasers! 💫
I'd still go with the Evapo-Rust it cost the lest of the three. The Laser did the best but cost the most out of the three way more!! Over 2K
I enjoyed your video so I gave it a Thumbs Up
Evapo-Rust or electrolysis are still the most cost efficient for sure
The plus for the laser is the other things you can do with it.
The drawback is the price.
The restorers I watch tend to use EvapoRust or electrolysis. Some use a sandblast cabinet, but those can be a bit more spendy than some can afford.
Thanks for doing the comparison. 👍
Evapo-Rust and electrolysis are definitely the best for 99% of people! (including me) 😊
@@CatalystRestorations 👍🙂
Electrolysis ftw. It'll blast off the paint and rust and is super attainable.
It's my personal favorite choice!
Also, if you don’t have a bench power supply you have other choices. One restorer uses a battery.
@@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co in the same vein, old school car battery chargers can make a great electrolysis set up.
laser to fidilly 👍👍🙌🙌
Who knows what other fun things I can do with it?!
Retired metallurgist and blacksmith here. Don't use hot blueing on critical components as red heat removes temper and leaves hard steel in its softest state. Cold blueing is an excellent substitute which is easy to find in a gunstore or chemical supplier. The nut is now softer and will have a reduced service life, but still probably many years.
I am also a metallurgist (in the steel industry specifically), always nice to meet another in the wild! If you check out some of my other videos you'll see I use both hot and cold bluing from time to time, almost exclusively just for the aesthetics and on small, non-critical components. The nut actually felt relatively low hardness prior to hot bluing, I'm not sure it's a specially hardened part. In any case, thanks for the tips!
One of these days I'm hoping to do a few videos on old tool metallurgy (microstructures, hardness, chemical composition, etc) but as you can imagine it's not cheap trying to recreate my day job's full met lab at home! Landing a metallurgical scope under $1000 has been a hurdle so far! 😂
@@CatalystRestorations Thank you for the heads up on the nut's hardness, I was only guessing.
My metallurgy is of the kitchen sink chemistry style at the moment, hence my hesitation to remove existing hardening in old tools.
Hardening and tempering can be done with moderate success under these conditions but without any real accuracy.
I'm not even going to try to build a metallurgical lab as I would not use it enough to compensate the cost.
Beautiful restoration, by the way!
So why in the world would I buy a laser?!? Evapo-rust has been my go to for years and it just works without any complicated setup or expense.
You shouldn't buy a laser for rust removal. That's the whole point of the video.
Lasers with guns (not this portable type) are convenient for removing rust from very large items. Some larger lasers can be moved to a worksite and used on items in situ: you aren’t going to be using Evapo-rust on a school boiler or the rails of a hospital staircase.
Who asked you to buy a laser?
What about good old fashioned vinegar? 24 or 48 hours and the rust is gone. Costs about a dollar a gallon...
Vinegar works too!
laser rust removal is good for surface stuff, but it doesn't really help with deeper stuff
It can, but with this it takes multiple passes to accomplish it.
It’s pee
....cheapest rust remover ever? 🤫