Reasons as to why I typically complete my own brake work: I rub down the disc mounting surface on the hub with a wire brush and brake cleaner, sometimes smearing the thinnest amount of copper slip on the hub I clean the disc retaining screw thread and lubricate with copper slip I remove carriers completely and thoroughly clean the brake pad sliding surface to stop sticking I clean the hell out of the calipers and even lubricate the piston to stop it sticking on the inner pad I also ensure the parts are clean enough to allow the pads to slip in and out without much friction But I guess I take ages as the time is my own And I cannot believe there was no lubricant on the corners of the pads to stop squealing! How did you miss that or not clean the carrier surface??!! Also, I hate uncoated discs, Delphi are always uncoated. My go to disc now is Borg and Beck Becktec as I cannot stand corroded brake hubs on cars after a fresh set of brakes!
I was able to get a 15mm socket on to the top shock absorbers nut through the plastic sleeve (4 min 20 secs) which takes away the risk of dropping the bolt or socket into chassis rail.
I'm really surprised that you didn't put any (copper) grease or something like that on the bolts that you put back... especially because you're struggling to take them of..
I must say, as much as we love old Alfa’s, they are not made to last. Just look at the rust on the rear trailing arms. I have a pair of them brand new in my lock up btw, one is genuine alfa. Thought they were for my QV but they weren’t
Just done the brakes on our Mito (the 145 will need doing too). It took me a full day to find the exact parts (I thought) but luckily AlfaShop asked for my chassis number and informed me I'd ordered the wrong parts!! Great service but parts is a bloody minefield!
Neil, i enjoy the videos but remember these are also an advert for your business so i would suggest that if you are doing a job on film and don’t do something that you would normally do just say I didn’t do this because I am replacing this later on. Keeps everything clear and concise.
You do all this work up you never seem to clean up parts, when I do jobs like new discs I clean the callipers so the look like new. I e got them off so why not clean them.
I think I know why, he doesn't clean and paint.. It's probably not having much individual time to dedicate to all his project cars and running his own business at the same time. I work my own classic project cars in my spare time and, cleaning up and painting adds tonnes of time to the task. Sometimes geting something functional is more appropriate .
@@ItaliaAutos working on my own cars, I don't have a buniness. I find I can't always put in the time in to fully clean and refurbish what ever I am working on the car. So I do what your doing in this case. Get it working functional better than what it was before. Family and my employer use up my time 😀 Anyways I'm enjoying watching the video s and learning the things you do on the car that make my life easier. I have 147 projects in the shed. Keep up the good work.
@@oreilly3337 when it comes to paying customers like this car you can't always go as far as you want due to the amount of extra hours it would take to refurbish them. I do have a customer wanting there brakes painting so I may film that. Thanks for watching.
Not so much the calipers but deffo the carrier bracket and pad seat. Bit of grease wouldnt go a miss either. Help with uneven wear. Sliders should have been cleaned and greased too tbh. Wheel nuts should also have been greased along with hub face
Telling off time. Don’t tighten bushes up without the weight of the vehicle on them and the car in its normal ride height. It just twists the bushes into an unnatural position once lowered and wears them out quicker. So many mechanics do this and it’s bad practice.
As good as that sounds and should be done, I don’t know a single mechanic that loads a card suspension up before tightening the bolts. Maybe a Lotus Exige specialist or something, but no other mechanic will do. It’s very hard to access these bolts with a torque wrench once the car is on the deck.
@@ItaliaAutos Yes I was wondering about that... easy when you've gpt the transmission jack under the trailing arm. A bit sloppy when you're showing "how it's done" professionally.
Neil, sorry if i get your first name wrong ,i got a question do you say Droplinks on cars like Alfa 159 or any passenger car matter?meaning should i change them when the car has done like 120 000 km ? I believe the bushing in them should make the car more comfortable somewhat? Many thanks
is that rear beam the same as the Mk1 fiat punto? cant believe how crusty and old those shocks looked.......and the state of the brake fluid before the bleeding process started was scary. likely to be very old fluid and carrying lots of corrosion in it too.
Reasons as to why I typically complete my own brake work:
I rub down the disc mounting surface on the hub with a wire brush and brake cleaner, sometimes smearing the thinnest amount of copper slip on the hub
I clean the disc retaining screw thread and lubricate with copper slip
I remove carriers completely and thoroughly clean the brake pad sliding surface to stop sticking
I clean the hell out of the calipers and even lubricate the piston to stop it sticking on the inner pad
I also ensure the parts are clean enough to allow the pads to slip in and out without much friction
But I guess I take ages as the time is my own
And I cannot believe there was no lubricant on the corners of the pads to stop squealing! How did you miss that or not clean the carrier surface??!!
Also, I hate uncoated discs, Delphi are always uncoated. My go to disc now is Borg and Beck Becktec as I cannot stand corroded brake hubs on cars after a fresh set of brakes!
wheels are coming off again and prob so are the brakes when the engine comes out for the rest of the work.
I was able to get a 15mm socket on to the top shock absorbers nut through the plastic sleeve (4 min 20 secs) which takes away the risk of dropping the bolt or socket into chassis rail.
I'm really surprised that you didn't put any (copper) grease or something like that on the bolts that you put back... especially because you're struggling to take them of..
Or even put back the deadly rusty bolts
bolts had lube on them when refitted. several of the bolts where also cleaned up off camera.
I must say, as much as we love old Alfa’s, they are not made to last. Just look at the rust on the rear trailing arms.
I have a pair of them brand new in my lock up btw, one is genuine alfa. Thought they were for my QV but they weren’t
Recently found your channel great content and great filming a lot of work not just the work on the cars but filming and editing 👍!
Cheers. Thanks for watching. Yeah good job I enjoy filming as it does take up a lot of time
Just done the brakes on our Mito (the 145 will need doing too). It took me a full day to find the exact parts (I thought) but luckily AlfaShop asked for my chassis number and informed me I'd ordered the wrong parts!! Great service but parts is a bloody minefield!
Great video Neil, it may come in useful if we ever get round to doing the 145! Cheers.
Glad it helped
Neil, i enjoy the videos but remember these are also an advert for your business so i would suggest that if you are doing a job on film and don’t do something that you would normally do just say I didn’t do this because I am replacing this later on. Keeps everything clear and concise.
Waited all weekend for your video
Nice video Neil. It's also great that you didn't put in any background music, this 'silent' video style I like a lot :)
Glad you liked it!
Great video again. Some nice work there and the 145 has come along nicely 😁👍
Thanks 👍
You do all this work up you never seem to clean up parts, when I do jobs like new discs I clean the callipers so the look like new. I e got them off so why not clean them.
I think I know why, he doesn't clean and paint.. It's probably not having much individual time to dedicate to all his project cars and running his own business at the same time.
I work my own classic project cars in my spare time and, cleaning up and painting adds tonnes of time to the task. Sometimes geting something functional is more appropriate .
Is this working in your own cars or paying customer cars.
@@ItaliaAutos working on my own cars, I don't have a buniness. I find I can't always put in the time in to fully clean and refurbish what ever I am working on the car. So I do what your doing in this case. Get it working functional better than what it was before. Family and my employer use up my time 😀
Anyways I'm enjoying watching the video s and learning the things you do on the car that make my life easier. I have 147 projects in the shed. Keep up the good work.
@@oreilly3337 when it comes to paying customers like this car you can't always go as far as you want due to the amount of extra hours it would take to refurbish them. I do have a customer wanting there brakes painting so I may film that. Thanks for watching.
Not so much the calipers but deffo the carrier bracket and pad seat. Bit of grease wouldnt go a miss either. Help with uneven wear. Sliders should have been cleaned and greased too tbh. Wheel nuts should also have been greased along with hub face
Blimey Neil and I thought I dropped my spanner’s a lot 😀
U need need a g clamp to push piston of the front calliper another cracking video thanks
Good video 👍👍👌🎥👍👌
Best regards Gert
Thanks
Why didn’t change the spring pan.
Telling off time. Don’t tighten bushes up without the weight of the vehicle on them and the car in its normal ride height. It just twists the bushes into an unnatural position once lowered and wears them out quicker. So many mechanics do this and it’s bad practice.
yep you got me.
As good as that sounds and should be done, I don’t know a single mechanic that loads a card suspension up before tightening the bolts. Maybe a Lotus Exige specialist or something, but no other mechanic will do. It’s very hard to access these bolts with a torque wrench once the car is on the deck.
@@ItaliaAutos Yes I was wondering about that... easy when you've gpt the transmission jack under the trailing arm.
A bit sloppy when you're showing "how it's done" professionally.
Neil, sorry if i get your first name wrong ,i got a question do you say Droplinks on cars like Alfa 159 or any passenger car matter?meaning should i change them when the car has done like 120 000 km ? I believe the bushing in them should make the car more comfortable somewhat? Many thanks
You only need to change them if there clunking while driving if there's no noise then if it's not broke then dont fix it
@@lukecowell7516 ok thanks
Nice job
Thanks!
Lovely Jubbly matey.
thanks
Nice work
Thanks
excellent video
Thank you very much!
That rear beam needs to come off be stripped and powder coated
it could do but thats not part of the customers requests at the moment.
@@ItaliaAutos yeah I get that but for the sake of a few hundred quid if it was my car it be done
Those rear trailing arms want changing...getting the ABS sensor out will be the biggest issue, as will be finding a 145 ABS sensor for the rear
Knowing my typical luck I'd eff up those rear shock bolt heads befor I could get them out in spite of being carefull. Oh boogger!
is that rear beam the same as the Mk1 fiat punto? cant believe how crusty and old those shocks looked.......and the state of the brake fluid before the bleeding process started was scary. likely to be very old fluid and carrying lots of corrosion in it too.
prob almost the same.
I drive 145 1.4 twin Spark your experience with that machine?
Zero notnsold in uk
@@ItaliaAutos but you know somethig about that motor?
What on Earth are those rear shocks? The customer should have got Bilstein B4 as they work well on the 145 and cost bugger all
The discs are a wee bit small, and your stretching the brake flexis 🙈🙈
Hi. I'm 17 and looking to buy my first car. I really want an interesting car like an alfa. Do you have any tips?
Have a look at an Abarth 595 turismo
@@ItaliaAutos something at about the 4 grand mark. Maybe a little under?
A shock absorber should not come back up by itself, that one is faulty.
If it is pressurized, "Gaz" shocks do come back by themselve.
Yes they should they should not stay down that means they are fucked
as the replies