Congrats on figuring out the load issue. For the disk drive, make sure that you can read a commercial 5.25" floppy, as you may have disturbed the alignment. Bad alignment will let you format and read a floppy in the drive, but reading a disk from another drive is the proper test.
@@RetroHackShack 360K disks would work for testing basic alignment, actually. Commercial disks are best, but even a disk from some other drive would work.
@@RetroHackShack That's a relief, as re-aligning floppy drive heads ranges from irritating to a nightmare. Making videos on technical subjects is a labor of love; keep up the good work.
Great video! I am always entertained by your videos and look forward to watching them. My only problem is having to wait for the next one. I want to see it now, darn it! 😆 Keep up the excellent work.
When you first tried to boot from the repaired floppy drive it looks like you had the floppy cable plugged into the wrong connector on the card, it appears to be plugged into the hard drive connector next to the 2 smaller connectors. Later after you added the battery it was correctly in the rear most connector.
@@RetroHackShack Made the same mistake myself when i worked on these machines when they were new so it was the first thing i thought of when the floppy drive didn't work.
The CRT error is because the AT has a jumper to set it to monochrome/colour displays. it's probably set to CGA so you are getting an error with the Hercules card. Also looks like it had a harddrive that was scavenged at some point (together with the graphics card and the I/O controller), because the clamps and screws that would secure it and the floppy drive as well as that slot cover (which is original) seem to be gone.
In regards to the sticky solenoid, I remember you tube streamer "Joe's Classic Video Games" had a solution to sticky relays and solenoids, But unfortunately because it was some time ago I cant recall what that solution was.
Hi On the first Floppy try the cable was on the wrong connector on the diskcontroller. After replacing the battery it is on the right connector. Maybe that was the fault with the floppy drive
The resistance you are seeing when measuring across the connector on the motherboard, it isn't going through the capacitors, it's just the internal resistance of all the chips on those supplies. The more chips the lower the resistance you will see. But as long as it's not a short it's fine.
I am not sure about that. Why would it start low and get higher in that case? Wouldn't the resistance always be the same? Seems like there must be a capacitor involved.
@@RetroHackShack Yes, you see the capacitors charge initially from the voltage on the meter, but once a capacitor is charged it will pass no current and the resistance you see then is just from the chips and other semiconductors across the supply.
Most power supplies will need a minimum load on the 5 volt output as well, connect another of the 5 ohm resistors across the 5 volt wires (= 1amp) . Then you have a useful module for testing power supplies stand alone.
Resistor looks a lot like the inline resistors you need for LED bulbs pull up resistors for older vehicles. Screw holes are for mounting on the frame or elsewhere.
If you take a shop vac and put the hose on the outlet it makes a nice blower/cleaner. I use mine to clean out my pcs. Put a wedge attachment on it and it increases the velocity of the air flow. If the unit is overly filthy be careful cause it will blow crap everywhere
my favorite IBM computer model is the 80286 version of PS/2 Model 30 as then will get the wonderful PS/2 port standard for keyboard and mouse attachment, and the wonderful VGA graphics card standard. And in the 8086 and 80286 models, it stayed with the 16-bit AT bus. Guess talking circa 1987/88. To me that particular model embodied the ultimate refinement of the original IBM PC - before it starts to evolve too much into something rather different. (Certainly the proprietary Microchannel bus was a bridge too far.) The IBM AT should get an award for being the ultimate solid PC design as it was built like a King Tiger heavy battle tank.
BIOS (is not a program). What most people call "The BIOS" is in fact the "Setup Program" that edits the BIOS settings. It does not matter if it is a setup program run from Disk(early PCs) or (on later PCs) from ROM it is the same thing and that is NOT the BIOS it is the "Setup program" for the BIOS.
Steven my friend work many years for IBM as IT Consultant. He tells that IBM making personal computers for other resellers and than badged with the logo from the reseller. Al off the parts are original IBM parts and not after market. I hope that you have now enough information. Greetings Jasmijn and Steven
Ya know, I’m all for originality, but… for actually running the machine I’d get a power supply for it that didn’t require a space heater to be hooked up to function…
Congrats on figuring out the load issue. For the disk drive, make sure that you can read a commercial 5.25" floppy, as you may have disturbed the alignment. Bad alignment will let you format and read a floppy in the drive, but reading a disk from another drive is the proper test.
Yes. Good point. Unfortunately, I only have 360K disks on hand or I would have done that. Perhaps I can find a few for a test.
@@RetroHackShack 360K disks would work for testing basic alignment, actually. Commercial disks are best, but even a disk from some other drive would work.
I just found a commercial 360k disk and it works fine
@@RetroHackShack That's a relief, as re-aligning floppy drive heads ranges from irritating to a nightmare.
Making videos on technical subjects is a labor of love; keep up the good work.
Yeah. I was glad I didn't have to go there 😃
Great video! I am always entertained by your videos and look forward to watching them. My only problem is having to wait for the next one. I want to see it now, darn it! 😆 Keep up the excellent work.
Thanks
When you first tried to boot from the repaired floppy drive it looks like you had the floppy cable plugged into the wrong connector on the card, it appears to be plugged into the hard drive connector next to the 2 smaller connectors. Later after you added the battery it was correctly in the rear most connector.
Correct! You have good eyes. I figured that out before I tested.
@@RetroHackShack Made the same mistake myself when i worked on these machines when they were new so it was the first thing i thought of when the floppy drive didn't work.
Run CHeckit and do the random seek tests with the floppy. or use IMD it also has a seek test that will exercise the stepper
Good idea. So far everything is working though.
The blanking plate is original I think, and yes they tend to yellow. I had to rebright mine to match the color of the 5.25 floppy drive...
Thanks for confirming.
The CRT error is because the AT has a jumper to set it to monochrome/colour displays. it's probably set to CGA so you are getting an error with the Hercules card.
Also looks like it had a harddrive that was scavenged at some point (together with the graphics card and the I/O controller), because the clamps and screws that would secure it and the floppy drive as well as that slot cover (which is original) seem to be gone.
I was waiting for this.
In regards to the sticky solenoid, I remember you tube streamer "Joe's Classic Video Games" had a solution to sticky relays and solenoids, But unfortunately because it was some time ago I cant recall what that solution was.
Seems like the IPA did the trick, but I should probably replace the foam pad that disintegrated.
Hi
On the first Floppy try the cable was on the wrong connector on the diskcontroller. After replacing the battery it is on the right connector. Maybe that was the fault with the floppy drive
The resistance you are seeing when measuring across the connector on the motherboard, it isn't going through the capacitors, it's just the internal resistance of all the chips on those supplies. The more chips the lower the resistance you will see. But as long as it's not a short it's fine.
I am not sure about that. Why would it start low and get higher in that case? Wouldn't the resistance always be the same? Seems like there must be a capacitor involved.
@@RetroHackShack Yes, you see the capacitors charge initially from the voltage on the meter, but once a capacitor is charged it will pass no current and the resistance you see then is just from the chips and other semiconductors across the supply.
Most power supplies will need a minimum load on the 5 volt output as well, connect another of the 5 ohm resistors across the 5 volt wires (= 1amp) . Then you have a useful module for testing power supplies stand alone.
Resistor looks a lot like the inline resistors you need for LED bulbs pull up resistors for older vehicles. Screw holes are for mounting on the frame or elsewhere.
If you take a shop vac and put the hose on the outlet it makes a nice blower/cleaner. I use mine to clean out my pcs. Put a wedge attachment on it and it increases the velocity of the air flow. If the unit is overly filthy be careful cause it will blow crap everywhere
my favorite IBM computer model is the 80286 version of PS/2 Model 30 as then will get the wonderful PS/2 port standard for keyboard and mouse attachment, and the wonderful VGA graphics card standard. And in the 8086 and 80286 models, it stayed with the 16-bit AT bus. Guess talking circa 1987/88. To me that particular model embodied the ultimate refinement of the original IBM PC - before it starts to evolve too much into something rather different. (Certainly the proprietary Microchannel bus was a bridge too far.)
The IBM AT should get an award for being the ultimate solid PC design as it was built like a King Tiger heavy battle tank.
It was built like a tank for sure
Fun fact: Concord Locksmith still exists - and it has the same phone number! Same with Control Master!
Wow
@@RetroHackShack Check that: Control Master seems to be out of business.
How to test the battery?
BIOS (is not a program). What most people call "The BIOS" is in fact the "Setup Program" that edits the BIOS settings. It does not matter if it is a setup program run from Disk(early PCs) or (on later PCs) from ROM it is the same thing and that is NOT the BIOS it is the "Setup program" for the BIOS.
Wait, you actually wrote a book on Linux? That sounds really interesting.
Yeah. It's a book designed to introduce Linux to Raspberry Pi owners who have never used Linux before. Linux For Makers.
Steven my friend work many years for IBM as IT Consultant. He tells that IBM making personal computers for other resellers and than badged with the logo from the reseller.
Al off the parts are original IBM parts and not after market. I hope that you have now enough information.
Greetings Jasmijn and Steven
Thanks for confirming
Why don't you just snip the battery header off the dead battery and solder that to the new battery case?
Yeah. I still might do that.
My dad is having trouble sourcing a custom chip for an instrument that he is working on (I think an oscilloscope).
Ya know, I’m all for originality, but… for actually running the machine I’d get a power supply for it that didn’t require a space heater to be hooked up to function…
☹️ ᵖʳᵒᵐᵒˢᵐ