Thank you! I love that you let us follow every step of the repair. I have to say, though, I don't think I will bother repairing my unit, but I just had to stop by to extend my great appreciation for your care and repair on this subject. My best to you in all that you do!
Thanks for sharing this. He helped me fix the sub myself. However, after replacing the TPS54334, I couldn't connect to the sound bar, and there was a situation where the sub LED just flashed red. The cause is that the cable "AWM 21107" connected to the Bluetooth module is bad. After replacing the cable, it returned to normal. I want to share so that people can have more solutions
This is an excellent tutorial. You have helped to identify the exact same problem that I have. No voltage at the pads. I'm an electrician and not an electronics guy, so removing and resoldering are beyond my skillset.I am hoping to find someone locally (Las Cruces,NM) who is capable to replace that chip. You have hopefully saved the tech some troubleshooting time and me a few bucks! Thank you for a very educational video!
I have the exact surround sound system and last week my subwoofer stopped working. I am by no means an expert on electronics but I can fake it pretty well. Anyway, after looking at the pcb and not noticing any visible issues, I turned to the trusty UA-cams and the first video that came up was this one. So after watching this I ordered the chip, a hot air station and solder paste. The chip came in today and I couldn’t wait to try replacing the chip. I’ve never used a hot air station and I need A LOT more practice, but after watching this video I was somewhat confident I could do this. Well after melting the chip, tearing off 3 pins, lifting one trace off of the board and still having that back of the chip soldered on, I eventually got the chip removed. I cleaned up all the flux and soldered the new chip on. And as the gentleman in the video stated he wouldn’t have been able to do this without solder paste, he is 100% correct. I wasn’t very hopeful that it worked but to my surprise, it worked. So Mr. TTS without this video I would have just gone and bought a new system. So I can not thank you enough for helping me fix my subwoofer and for saving me $300. The chip cost nothing compared to having to buy a new system.
Awesome job. Surface mount devices are a whole different beast for sure. With the smaller components all around it makes the job even tougher. For years I enjoyed learning electronics, but thought SMD devices were off limits for me. I would only work with through hole devices for the majority of repairs for years. One thing I finally learned is the more we do it, the easier it gets. The hot air station is a life saver. If that was your first time using the hot air station you did great. Thanks so much for your kind comment and so glad it helped.
Hello, can you tell me please how much did you spend to buy all the necessary tools? I have the same problem with the subwoofer and I bought a couple of TPS54334 but couldn't find someone to replace it. Maybe I will try it myself. Please let me know what tools you need to buy to replace the part TPS54334. Thanks
Outstanding help, thank you, this sound bar and sub cost me 300$ in 2019, it was great until recently, i noticed it seemed like i had no Bass , i inspected and found subwoofer was inactive, no power. i started looking online and this video came up, i clicked and went to it and watched, i performed mentioned inspection points and they led to the same conclusion as your did. i ordered a bag of 3 chips and r/r chip and had Bass again, light worked, pairing worked.. with your very detailed instructions you saved me at least 300$ as i would have had to purchase a new sound bar or subwoofer that i dont know if it would have paired with the sound bar, so a grateful thank you from near athens Georgia
Awesome. Thanks for your kind comment. I am in Augusta, Georgia. I have been to Athens for different things over the years including Athens Tech. In the 90's. And I was able to tour the ABB motor plant about 15 years ago. It was Reliance or Baldor then.
@@ThriftyToolShed hi again, my subwoofer AND sound bar both inoperable now, you being in augusta me near athens, would you take a look at my set for a cost , i can ship it down there.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed hey augusta.. my system is back up and working with bass. it wont connect to my pc bluetooth but i used a HDMI audio extractor i think spdif is the abbreviation. , i was using the audio extractor method before my bass went out and i hope that is not why the 5334 chip burned out, i was only able to connect to my pc using bluetooth very few times when i first bought the speaker system , but it eventually would not connect so i tried optical cable with hdmi audio caonnector and it worked in 2 channel mode, not the 5.1 channel mode but i dont have surround speakers if that is what 5.1 refers too. , thought i would let you know
Comunque è una vergogna si rompono tutti questi subwoofer, se fosse una casa seria, Sony, dovrebbe ritirare e sostituire gratuitamente questi apparecchi. Anche il mio è rotto e sembrerebbe lo stesso problema, ma logicamente non avendo tutti questi strumenti rischierei solo di rovinare di più le componenti. Come sei riuscito a sostituire il chip? Hai skill in merito o hai solo tentato?
Thank you very much for your video, it helped me find out what was wrong with my wct290, I practically gave it up for lost and I was thinking of throwing it away, but I decided to buy the mosfet and replaced it, now I continue enjoying my sound bar .
I did SMT soldering for years at different companies in Ottawa Ca and let me tell that chip is easy. Don't be afraid to get the chip hot, taping it off was a good idea, the hot air will blow of the smaller components around it. But don't try to pull it off before the solder has melted, you will pull the traces off, it wil come off with no force at all. The ones that are a pain are ones with huge heatsinks attached, we had giant 200w iron for those.
So true, the power components soak up so much heat with the heat sink and sometimes the ground plane. I have many repairs that I have to use at least 140W iron on. Thanks for sharing!
amazing tutorial, in my case it was the same failure but a resistance was not working either then I desolded IC Regulator and put a I LM2596S step-down regulator and It's working now. thank you for you help
@@eliasbau3041 11:24 is seen place where - and + 3,3 V needs to be. So cheap buck converter could be adjusted to 3,3V and it's + and - connected accordingly. Converter also needs +19V at input and former chip needs to be taken out. Not pretty but could be done with just ordinary soldering iron.
Excellent solder job my friend! I was surprised to hear you say that it was challenging for you, you are a natural! It seems pretty crucial to use a good solder paste and hot air station. I hope to add tools like that to my kit someday, cant avoid surface mount components for much longer.
Like all the other comments, I have the same exact sub woofer and the light does not come on. Were you able to determine the root cause of the failure other than that part? I only ask because if I do go to the trouble of replacing that part with the same part, will the same problem happen again? IE: Voltage surge, vs just a badly made part by a specific company and replacing that part made from a different company with better quality.
I have only worked on this one. Hard to say for sure. I ordered the replacement IC and after replacement my friend has had no issues. May not be the same results for everyone. Simply sharing as we learn together. I did not even know this was going to be a common failure until after the repair was complete. On a repair, I typically will replace the IC first and make sure it was not simply a bad batch of chips that caused the failure, but of course if it is truly a design flaw then it's time to go deeper if you want a long term solution. Sorry I can't offer any more information than that at this time. It seems to be holding up so far. Best of luck to ya with yours!
Just wanted to say thanks so much for taking the time to do videos like this. I would have never figured this problem without folks like you. At least now I can take this to someone and say this is probably the issue and start from here. Or worst case, try it myself. I can't make it any worse than it already is. Peace, keep up the great work. Mo
Hi, excellent, thank you. My unit has same symptoms but have checked that there is no 24 volts. Would you happen to know, if the 54334 chip is faulty would that stop the 24 volts on the other board Thank you A.E.Jones
I can see maybe if the chip is shorted instead of simply having no output like the one in the video then it might pull Voltage down? I would check and see If you disconnect the board from the power supply board do you have the 24V then? I would think with the right board completely disconnected and you still don't have your 24v then the power supply board has a fault.
Hello, I have a sony subwoofer I bought in July last year. Recently it won’t show the led light indicating it’s on and I’m not getting any power. Can I ship my subwoofer to you to repair? Thank you
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Good video man, congrats. That helps me to find the error on my exact same Subwoofer. I don’t know if i’m skillful enough to perform this, but i am going to do it anyways 😂.
My friend Mr Nair (86) a retd. scientist from Hindustan Antibiotics Ltd Pune India, & recd. this HT CT 290 system as a gift from his son at Seattle USA an year back. All of a sudden the woofer stopped on a fine day when there was some voltage fluctuations. This S/w was taken to a local authorised service centre. They charged Rs.150/- for checking. And quoted Rs. 2500/- as repairs charges. We were not happy at this. And refused. We now plan to take it to a local expert, to save heavy servicing charges. ( 60% saving is expected) Your guiding tutorial is of a definite help in resolving this. Thank you for that. Also the videography is of equally better quality. Very good illustration also. This video creates hopes and might be a perpetual help to the buyers of this substandard system bearing a big brand name. Thanks again
Hello there. I try to repair my sub-woofer SA-WCT290 but I'm not electrician. Would like to know the reference of the alimentation power card to change to repair it. Thanks a lot in advance...
If you are asking about repairs, I Wish I had time. I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
I’m trying to replace the cord of this same subwoofer because my dog chewed it up. How do I remove that little black piece that the cord goes into the inside of the subwoofer?!?!
HI, These black plastic cord grips usual are really tight and need some compression with pliers on the inside where it sticks through while pushing it out. So I have luck while wiggling and pushing out while pressing with pliers . Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
Thank you. I have the same sound bar and the subwoofer went out, idk when. Took it apart, googled the mains PCB PN# and it brought me to your video. Sure enough, check that 3.3V TP and no voltage. Got the 18V. Problem is I don't have a heat gun. Plenty of soldering at this size of SMD. 🤔
I used a hot air station. It's the same one I have used in many SMD repairs on the channel. I also used flux and solder. I have some links in the description of a lot of the tools if you find them helpful.
Hello Sr thanks for your video very helpfull I went for the cap and get about 280v (in my country the dc is 220v) but then in the next test on the 10pin conector between the black and brown cables (subwofer ground) i didnt get any voltage. What could be the problem?
Sorry, I only worked on that one and shared alot of the information I learned on that video. I have no schematics or any other information other than what was shared. Since this was a failed voltage converter chip, I had no reason. To dig much deeper. Best of luck to ya!
Thx alot man i ordered the needed parts and tools and did it myself today... it was hard but it did worked out eventually... my sub is working again 🎉 big thanks to you man rly
Good intuition and good video. Could you share the service manual of the subwoofer unit ? I have a similar one SA-WMT300 purchased standalone, which is wireless, and i want to use it wired. By muself i cannot figure out where to solder the audio input ;)
Hey. Nice and clean work. My question is does it matter which chip is needed? my chip is: 54334 TI 82A P2E1G3 i found alixpres this chip: 54334 TI 98A P1HHG3 thanks.
Добрый день! Мне тоже помогло, питание появилось. Но возникла проблема со связью сама и звуковой панелью, они не видят друг друга. Подружить их так и не получилось. Не возникало ли у вас такой проблемы?
It may be an issue with the primary PS. I have not worked on that model to say for sure. The SA-WCT290 had a primary PS of around 18VDC that powered the sub and it also had the small DC-DC converter chip to power the Blue Tooth.
Sorry, that is the only issue I have seen on this one. I know some have a procedure to reconnect the blue tooth as I have shared about a Samsung bar in the past. Not sure about this one though.
Any idea if there is a way to open the front to get to that hole space? My children have managed to shove quite of few items in there including the tv remote 😂 I would love to be able to retrieve. Anyone any ideas how to do so?
If you are asking about replacement 54334 Chip, I have link in description. it is just a link for reference only, select the best price and shipping cost for your needs as sellers vary daily. Hope it helps, best of luck to ya!
We have the same model, but the pcb inside is a different revision by the looks of it. It sometimes randomly makes a loud popping noise and now it started buzzing. Took a look inside and I don't see anything wrong. Plugged it in again and it works again. Idk what is wrong. Caps on the psu seem good.
Seems like a PS issue to me, however, I have no experience with that exact problem myself. I only worked on this one and shared what I found with it. I guess I would check for AC ripple on the PS buss and go from there?
Hi, These are very hard to find right now. I have some links in description, but they are constantly out of stock. I have a link for Amazon I will share for reference m, but the price is too high it's for reference only. amzn.to/3y1rB9Y The MP2307 could be a possible replacement if check it out well. I have not used it, but it's similar. www.ebay.com/itm/392318769050?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=elZ-z3P6RkC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=D_qZMHXJQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Just found this since mine has the same issue with no lights. I can solder basic things but I probably would not be able to do this myself. Is there a way to buy that entire board to swap out?
Man.... Sounds like you did an awesome job and got the power back on. Now it will not reconnect, I have had several comments about that as well. Even though I have not seen one do that myself it seems to be more common than I originally thought it to be. Sorry to hear yours will not connect. Seems like an issue with the Bluetooth board itself as well.
Question. I don't think I'm skilled enough to do this and I don't have the tools. Is it possible to bridge two points so it's always on. Would that work? Thanks.
@@ThriftyToolShed Ah. Right. So chip definitely needs to be replaced. I guess I can give it a go. The sub was basically free. Nothing to loose really. I asked around but there's nobody in my small town that is qualified to do it.
Hi, thank you for sharing this video, I found it extremely useful and I learnt a lot. I checked my subwoofer and it was indeed the same TPS54334 failure, i replace it but know im not getting 18V on the power board? Any suggestion what should I check? Fuse is OK. Before replacement I had 18V on the power board pins on top and the chip was indeed burnt. Any ideas?
Make sure you have no bridges on your new chip and I would look for hot spots on the board when powered on. That is assuming something is not already opened up of course such as a fuse or Rectifier? I did not have an issue with my power supply side so I can't say for sure as I did not have to look at that one very much. This was the only one I ever worked on. Thanks for your comment and best of luck to ya!
Thx for your reply. I checked for bridges but i think is ok. I unplugged the cable betweeen power board and main board and have no voltage measuring directly to the pins. Any ideas will be appreciated
Finally i can say the power board its ok. If i unplugged the wire to connect to the main board i didnt get any voltage but i charge a capacitor with just the multineter and i got 18v voltage when plugin to AC. So i think is a bridge on the new chip, even if i dont say any. What would be the result when measuring with ohmnimeter between pins? Im getting open circuit on one side and close circuit on the other, could be ok? No idea whats inside the chip and how it works
@@davidv1761 Its been a while since I touched this, and it was the only one I ever worked on and I had no issue to go further. I wish I could say, I would check positive output of supply to ground and see if it is infact low ohms to ground. I would think even with the chip across it should not be low ohms from positive side back to common or ground. But you should be even higher than that if the supply is disconnected from board?
I have reference link in the description. I believe it is correct replacement. Link for reference only as sellers vary daily. choose the best the you based on shipping and cost. Best of luck to ya!
what would i do if the actual sub speaker has blown, i think my unit is a sealed unit, and I'm not sure what to do or how to fix it, it still works just makes a real bad rattle sound under use. my sub is the "SA-WMT300"
I have not experienced that to say for sure. I fixed this one for a friend and the only one I have worked on. I would look for any information on it and go from there. It may be hard to find, but it's worth effort to check. If you have no luck finding an exact replacement, it is possible to get one close. The speaker may have the rating on it or at least if it's 8 ohm or 4 ohm etc. then if the complete unit list the wattage, you can go by that to be close.
My 290 just went out - no light - found this video and I cannot repair myself as I don’t possess that skill. How much would it be to send it to your abs repair it? I have 2 of these sound bars in my home - one 390 and one 290 and my sound bar works fine - but depending on price to repair would determine whether I get it repaired or just buy a whole new 390
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repiar service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair. I don't have alot of time left, I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Hello good day! I need help with this equipment, the client did not bring the bar, only the subwoofer, when checking, detected an integrated 8-pin shorted TPS54334, I changed it by installing the new one, and that's it, the equipment gave a signal of life, green led flashing and red (I said This is ok) but there is an additional problem, that it does not link with the bar. I actually did all the tests for the safe link. I disassembled the subwoofer and I do not see anything strange. The voltage reaches the bluetooth card. Change some capacitors. I have come to think that the piece of Replacement does not work, I have doubts when I turn on the led it goes from red to the link link link it changes to flashing green then to red. I thank you if you can help me, I do not give up easily.
I know what you mean. It's hard to give up on a repair. I have only had the one issue so if you are getting the 3.3V rail I would think your chip is most likely ok now? I have not had issues with the Bluetooth board/module but sounds possible.
Я тоже столкнулся с такой же проблемой. После замены чипа световой индикатор работает, но связи сабвуфера со звуковой панелью нет. Сабвуфер понимает что он в поиске звуковой панелью, так как режим работы светодиода меняется, но подключение не происходит. Любые идеи?
@@СергейПарамонов-н6с У меня подозрение на то, что Bluetooth модуль тоже пришел в негодность. Он у меня очень сильно греется. Я не уверен, что это так должно быть.
I am not sure. I do not have repair shop. Simply sharing how to fix things with others, on the bright side more people out there with skills or desire to learn skills should see how it's done? The IC itself that fixed this one was only around $4. It's getting harder to find and of course it takes someone's time to do it. Best of luck to ya with yours!
Thanks for posting this video. With your help, I was able to diagnose the problem and then order a whole new board. But here's my question, is there a way of preventing this from happening again? Is it heat related or just wrong IC for the job?
Excellent question. When I first posted this video I had no idea how many out there had a similar issue. I see now that there are many with similar issues. I did not check into the load on this chip when I had this one in front of me to say for sure. At first I thought maybe just a bad batch of chips and I guess it still could be. I do wonder if the chip is not pushed a little too hard though. Sorry I have no more information as I have not worked on another one myself yet. Thanks for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for commenting back to me 😁. I'm no electronics person, so I may try and use the unit and just see if it gets hot? In my head, fitting a small heatsink can't hurt 🤕... Though I may just order another board while they're in stock on eBay 🤣
Well thank you my friend. I'm a beginner and I subscribed to your post. Is there a way to communicate with you or is there a link or website that you consider good for getting these tools and info including schematics. Gotta start somewhere... SSB
Hi Scott, So glad you find these things interesting. I do have many links down in the video descriptions of tools and items I use myself and find helpful. I also have a small Facebook group to try and help when people ask questions and we can share pdf and other docs etc. there as well. As far as schematics, they are almost non existent these days and it makes it much more challenging for sure so we share what we can as we learn together. If you have any questions that I can help you with, feel free to post on the Facebook group "On The Bench" also my email is thriftytoolshed@gmail.com I wish you the best in learning it is super fun and I have enjoyed learning how things work all my life.
@@ThriftyToolShed I've got an older Sony subwoofer ss-ws42 I was just trying to figure out how to get inside. It looks like the front should come off but I don't want to break it
You might just need to relink it. Mine had a red light too. Once I unplugged it, the light never turned on. Why I am here. Sony website has some troubleshooting you can try
I have not seen that. I worked on the one. Once I got the 3.3V bus back up, I got my led lights. Gave it to the owner to make sure it worked correctly . It paired for my friend right away. He had no issue.
I have not seen that, sorry. Most likely in the Bluetooth module. Possible I guess that the BT module took out the 3.3V rail to start with, but I would not think so.
That's not great. If your lucky you can clean up the board well and replace the cap and be back in business. One things to make sure of is that you clean the Board extremely well with high percentage IPA or plastic safe contact cleaner so you don't have bad corrosion later from the cap electrolyte.
Great vid - just what I needed. Please provide links for the tape products you used. ALso, will my harbor freight height gun be sufficient? Trying to do this without a huge investment. Right now it doesn't work, so If i try and it fix it, great. If not, no real loss.
I have added the tape to the links already in description as well as the hot air station I use. I can not say for sure, but I would not think the heat gun would work very well?
Love your work. Interesting that on such a small chip, heatsink solder pad is used to draw heat. I'm thinking that's probably the issue.... heat is not being dissipated efficiently. Gluing a piece of aluminum foil might do the trick as long as it doesn't touch other components' terminations. This subwoofer hadn't been in a market that long 5-6 years. Any thing that doesn't last 10 years isn't a well engineered product in my opinion.
Brilliant video. Saved me a lot of money. The IC chip was gone in mine as well. I did not have the tools so I just ordered a new green board and after replacing it all is working fine. Thank you very much again.
Hi, I did not remove the ribbon from mine since it fit under my microscope just fine. Most of these ribbon cables have a locking tab you will have to slide up and then the ribbon will slide out. Some have a lever that opens and locks back, but I don't remember these being that type. Seems like this one has the tabs you slide upward to unlock.
@@ThriftyToolShed NOW ITS ON I DONT KNOW WHAT IS WRONG BUT NOW IT DOESNT PUT OUT SOUND IT JUST MUTTED NO SOUND IS COMING OUT OF IT NOW SOUND BAR AND SUBWOOFER
Me too - I'm hoping to make an experiment out of it, and see if I can repurpose the subwoofer by running wires to it. Can't find anyone that's ever tried that, or how to easily trace the wires to tap them into the input where the wireless signal would come in?
Same thing happened to my HT CT 790. Sony did that with purpose ??? it should brake down after 4-5 years max. So u have to buy a new one. It sounded good but not reliable enough. Bye bye Sony, I will try Corean next time.
I called Sony customer support regarding this issue, with my device being just over a year old they told me to go pound sand. It looks like Sony is now producing garbage and is not taking any responsibility for the pre-mature failure of there products. Apparently I will need to start warming up to Samsung TV's because I will not be buying anything with a Sony logo ever again.
Dang, that sucks! Sorry to hear that, thanks for sharing this with us. Hopefully some repair shops are starting to repair these with some cost savings? Best of luck to ya!
Thank you! I love that you let us follow every step of the repair. I have to say, though, I don't think I will bother repairing my unit, but I just had to stop by to extend my great appreciation for your care and repair on this subject. My best to you in all that you do!
Thanks for sharing this. He helped me fix the sub myself.
However, after replacing the TPS54334, I couldn't connect to the sound bar, and there was a situation where the sub LED just flashed red.
The cause is that the cable "AWM 21107" connected to the Bluetooth module is bad. After replacing the cable, it returned to normal.
I want to share so that people can have more solutions
Thanks for sharing, great to know!
Tps54334 chip
This is an excellent tutorial. You have helped to identify the exact same problem that I have. No voltage at the pads. I'm an electrician and not an electronics guy, so removing and resoldering are beyond my skillset.I am hoping to find someone locally (Las Cruces,NM) who is capable to replace that chip. You have hopefully saved the tech some troubleshooting time and me a few bucks!
Thank you for a very educational video!
I have the exact surround sound system and last week my subwoofer stopped working. I am by no means an expert on electronics but I can fake it pretty well. Anyway, after looking at the pcb and not noticing any visible issues, I turned to the trusty UA-cams and the first video that came up was this one. So after watching this I ordered the chip, a hot air station and solder paste. The chip came in today and I couldn’t wait to try replacing the chip. I’ve never used a hot air station and I need A LOT more practice, but after watching this video I was somewhat confident I could do this. Well after melting the chip, tearing off 3 pins, lifting one trace off of the board and still having that back of the chip soldered on, I eventually got the chip removed. I cleaned up all the flux and soldered the new chip on. And as the gentleman in the video stated he wouldn’t have been able to do this without solder paste, he is 100% correct. I wasn’t very hopeful that it worked but to my surprise, it worked. So Mr. TTS without this video I would have just gone and bought a new system. So I can not thank you enough for helping me fix my subwoofer and for saving me $300. The chip cost nothing compared to having to buy a new system.
Awesome job. Surface mount devices are a whole different beast for sure. With the smaller components all around it makes the job even tougher. For years I enjoyed learning electronics, but thought SMD devices were off limits for me. I would only work with through hole devices for the majority of repairs for years. One thing I finally learned is the more we do it, the easier it gets. The hot air station is a life saver. If that was your first time using the hot air station you did great. Thanks so much for your kind comment and so glad it helped.
Hello, can you tell me please how much did you spend to buy all the necessary tools? I have the same problem with the subwoofer and I bought a couple of TPS54334 but couldn't find someone to replace it. Maybe I will try it myself. Please let me know what tools you need to buy to replace the part TPS54334. Thanks
Outstanding help, thank you, this sound bar and sub cost me 300$ in 2019, it was great until recently, i noticed it seemed like i had no Bass , i inspected and found subwoofer was inactive, no power. i started looking online and this video came up, i clicked and went to it and watched, i performed mentioned inspection points and they led to the same conclusion as your did. i ordered a bag of 3 chips and r/r chip and had Bass again, light worked, pairing worked.. with your very detailed instructions you saved me at least 300$ as i would have had to purchase a new sound bar or subwoofer that i dont know if it would have paired with the sound bar, so a grateful thank you from near athens Georgia
Awesome. Thanks for your kind comment. I am in Augusta, Georgia. I have been to Athens for different things over the years including Athens Tech. In the 90's. And I was able to tour the ABB motor plant about 15 years ago. It was Reliance or Baldor then.
@@ThriftyToolShed hi again, my subwoofer AND sound bar both inoperable now, you being in augusta me near athens, would you take a look at my set for a cost , i can ship it down there.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed hey augusta.. my system is back up and working with bass. it wont connect to my pc bluetooth but i used a HDMI audio extractor i think spdif is the abbreviation. , i was using the audio extractor method before my bass went out and i hope that is not why the 5334 chip burned out, i was only able to connect to my pc using bluetooth very few times when i first bought the speaker system , but it eventually would not connect so i tried optical cable with hdmi audio caonnector and it worked in 2 channel mode, not the 5.1 channel mode but i dont have surround speakers if that is what 5.1 refers too. , thought i would let you know
@@fingerfeller i
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I fixed my sub that didn t work and i experienced the same failure. Thank you so much from Italy 😉
Sapresti aiutarmi? Anche il mio subwoofer purtroppo non funziona più (HT-CT290). Sei riuscito ad acquistare e sostituire il chip?
Comunque è una vergogna si rompono tutti questi subwoofer, se fosse una casa seria, Sony, dovrebbe ritirare e sostituire gratuitamente questi apparecchi. Anche il mio è rotto e sembrerebbe lo stesso problema, ma logicamente non avendo tutti questi strumenti rischierei solo di rovinare di più le componenti.
Come sei riuscito a sostituire il chip? Hai skill in merito o hai solo tentato?
Thank you very much for your video, it helped me find out what was wrong with my wct290, I practically gave it up for lost and I was thinking of throwing it away, but I decided to buy the mosfet and replaced it, now I continue enjoying my sound bar .
I did SMT soldering for years at different companies in Ottawa Ca and let me tell that chip is easy. Don't be afraid to get the chip hot, taping it off was a good idea, the hot air will blow of the smaller components around it. But don't try to pull it off before the solder has melted, you will pull the traces off, it wil come off with no force at all. The ones that are a pain are ones with huge heatsinks attached, we had giant 200w iron for those.
So true, the power components soak up so much heat with the heat sink and sometimes the ground plane. I have many repairs that I have to use at least 140W iron on. Thanks for sharing!
I would not attempt this myself I wonder would Sony or any another fix this problem .?
amazing tutorial, in my case it was the same failure but a resistance was not working either then I desolded IC Regulator and put a I LM2596S step-down regulator and It's working now. thank you for you help
Me puedes explicar cómo lo has hecho ?
@@eliasbau3041 11:24 is seen place where - and + 3,3 V needs to be. So cheap buck converter could be adjusted to 3,3V and it's + and - connected accordingly. Converter also needs +19V at input and former chip needs to be taken out. Not pretty but could be done with just ordinary soldering iron.
Excellent solder job my friend! I was surprised to hear you say that it was challenging for you, you are a natural! It seems pretty crucial to use a good solder paste and hot air station. I hope to add tools like that to my kit someday, cant avoid surface mount components for much longer.
Like all the other comments, I have the same exact sub woofer and the light does not come on.
Were you able to determine the root cause of the failure other than that part?
I only ask because if I do go to the trouble of replacing that part with the same part, will the same problem happen again? IE: Voltage surge, vs just a badly made part by a specific company and replacing that part made from a different company with better quality.
I have only worked on this one. Hard to say for sure. I ordered the replacement IC and after replacement my friend has had no issues. May not be the same results for everyone. Simply sharing as we learn together. I did not even know this was going to be a common failure until after the repair was complete. On a repair, I typically will replace the IC first and make sure it was not simply a bad batch of chips that caused the failure, but of course if it is truly a design flaw then it's time to go deeper if you want a long term solution. Sorry I can't offer any more information than that at this time. It seems to be holding up so far. Best of luck to ya with yours!
Just wanted to say thanks so much for taking the time to do videos like this. I would have never figured this problem without folks like you. At least now I can take this to someone and say this is probably the issue and start from here. Or worst case, try it myself. I can't make it any worse than it already is. Peace, keep up the great work. Mo
bisa buatkan video perbaikan soundbar nya tidak?
Hi, excellent, thank you. My unit has same symptoms but have checked that there is no 24 volts. Would you happen to know, if the 54334 chip is faulty would that stop the 24 volts on the other board
Thank you
A.E.Jones
I can see maybe if the chip is shorted instead of simply having no output like the one in the video then it might pull Voltage down? I would check and see If you disconnect the board from the power supply board do you have the 24V then? I would think with the right board completely disconnected and you still don't have your 24v then the power supply board has a fault.
@@ThriftyToolShed Hi, Thankyou for a speedy and helpfull reply.
Regards
A.E.Jones
Great video, just tossed the soundbar in the trash. Wish I seen this first.
Any whay to reuse the sub with a diferent device?
As far as I know you have to connect to the sound bar and not directly to the sub. Thanks for your kind comment!
Hello, I have a sony subwoofer I bought in July last year. Recently it won’t show the led light indicating it’s on and I’m not getting any power. Can I ship my subwoofer to you to repair? Thank you
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
I've the same issue but I'm a total newbie. Seems I'll have to give it a try. What is the 'paste' you used at 6:29 before using the heat gun?
It's a solder flux paste. You can use RA rosin flux as well. The flux helps alot with the process.
Good video man, congrats.
That helps me to find the error on my exact same Subwoofer. I don’t know if i’m skillful enough to perform this, but i am going to do it anyways 😂.
Excellent Sir... SONY is not an exception in users of substandard material.
My friend Mr Nair (86) a retd. scientist from Hindustan Antibiotics Ltd Pune India, & recd. this HT CT 290 system as a gift from his son at Seattle USA an year back. All of a sudden the woofer stopped on a fine day when there was some voltage fluctuations. This S/w was taken to a local authorised service centre. They charged Rs.150/- for checking. And quoted Rs. 2500/- as repairs charges. We were not happy at this. And refused. We now plan to take it to a local expert, to save heavy servicing charges. ( 60% saving is expected) Your guiding tutorial is of a definite help in resolving this. Thank you for that. Also the videography is of equally better quality. Very good illustration also. This video creates hopes and might be a perpetual help to the buyers of this substandard system bearing a big brand name.
Thanks again
Hello there. I try to repair my sub-woofer SA-WCT290 but I'm not electrician. Would like to know the reference of the alimentation power card to change to repair it. Thanks a lot in advance...
This is the only one I have worked on. I don't know of any replacement board available if that is your question.
Hi. Interested in getting board fixed.
If you are asking about repairs, I Wish I had time. I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
I’m trying to replace the cord of this same subwoofer because my dog chewed it up. How do I remove that little black piece that the cord goes into the inside of the subwoofer?!?!
HI,
These black plastic cord grips usual are really tight and need some compression with pliers on the inside where it sticks through while pushing it out. So I have luck while wiggling and pushing out while pressing with pliers . Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
Thank you. I have the same sound bar and the subwoofer went out, idk when. Took it apart, googled the mains PCB PN# and it brought me to your video. Sure enough, check that 3.3V TP and no voltage. Got the 18V. Problem is I don't have a heat gun. Plenty of soldering at this size of SMD. 🤔
I’m curious if you could add power to this sub. Simply to maintain Bluetooth connect ability and playability while wanting more bass output.
I do not know of a way.
Hi , I have a question how did you remove the chip ?? What did you use on it ? Can you assist ! Ty
I used a hot air station. It's the same one I have used in many SMD repairs on the channel. I also used flux and solder. I have some links in the description of a lot of the tools if you find them helpful.
Hello Sr thanks for your video very helpfull
I went for the cap and get about 280v (in my country the dc is 220v) but then in the next test on the 10pin conector between the black and brown cables (subwofer ground) i didnt get any voltage. What could be the problem?
Sorry, I only worked on that one and shared alot of the information I learned on that video. I have no schematics or any other information other than what was shared. Since this was a failed voltage converter chip, I had no reason. To dig much deeper. Best of luck to ya!
Thx alot man i ordered the needed parts and tools and did it myself today... it was hard but it did worked out eventually... my sub is working again 🎉 big thanks to you man rly
Excellent job! Thanks for sharing!
VarTan, не возникло ли у вас проблем после с подключением сабвуфера и звуковой панели? Мои не видят друг друга
@@СергейПарамонов-н6с sorry i can't understand your language
Very well done and successful repair. Beyond most's ability due to delicacy of component size and configuration. Good job.
Thanks for your kind comment! I hope more people get interested in learning!
Good intuition and good video. Could you share the service manual of the subwoofer unit ? I have a similar one SA-WMT300 purchased standalone, which is wireless, and i want to use it wired. By muself i cannot figure out where to solder the audio input ;)
Thanks for your comment. I don't have a service manual for this. I simply worked on this for a friend and had to troubleshoot.
need to open the bar speaker. how can i do that? search for videos, not available
same troubles, same solution (your solution), all is correct, many thank.'s for your support Jean-louis
Ty... hopefully that's the problem I'm having...I'm going to take it to a shop...how much should the work cost?
I am not sure of the cost honestly. I do not have a repair shop. I simply share what we find with others that may find it helpful. Best of luck to ya!
Hey. Nice and clean work. My question is does it matter which chip is needed? my chip is: 54334 TI 82A P2E1G3
i found alixpres this chip: 54334 TI 98A P1HHG3
thanks.
I believe it will work fine. Most components with 54334 are very similar in spec. I would compare it to make sure though.
Спасибо тебе, друг за подробное видео! Мне это очень помогло. Удачи тебе и хорошего развития твоего канала!
Добрый день! Мне тоже помогло, питание появилось. Но возникла проблема со связью сама и звуковой панелью, они не видят друг друга. Подружить их так и не получилось. Не возникало ли у вас такой проблемы?
Got the exact same model, exact same problem. Just stopped randomly.
Helpful I have the same prob, My Sony Subwoofer SA-WSD 35 Wont turn, need your advice
It may be an issue with the primary PS. I have not worked on that model to say for sure. The SA-WCT290 had a primary PS of around 18VDC that powered the sub and it also had the small DC-DC converter chip to power the Blue Tooth.
hi, I have another problem, checking the pad I measure 3.3 volts but the subwoofer light continues to flash red, can you help me please?🙏
Sorry, that is the only issue I have seen on this one. I know some have a procedure to reconnect the blue tooth as I have shared about a Samsung bar in the past. Not sure about this one though.
IC is not available in market. Where to get it?
I have a link in the video description and the Newark chip shows in stock.
Any idea if there is a way to open the front to get to that hole space? My children have managed to shove quite of few items in there including the tv remote 😂 I would love to be able to retrieve. Anyone any ideas how to do so?
Me too, thanks for the video. Any shop that will do this for a charge?
a question i have the same problem with my woofer is the same htc 290 series where can i buy the replacement
If you are asking about replacement 54334 Chip, I have link in description. it is just a link for reference only, select the best price and shipping cost for your needs as sellers vary daily. Hope it helps, best of luck to ya!
tolong buatkan tutorial video perbaikan soundbar sony yg rusak
Where can I find someone to do the repairs? I'm having this same exact issue and I believe I need that chip replaced on mine. Any suggestions?
We have the same model, but the pcb inside is a different revision by the looks of it. It sometimes randomly makes a loud popping noise and now it started buzzing. Took a look inside and I don't see anything wrong. Plugged it in again and it works again. Idk what is wrong. Caps on the psu seem good.
Seems like a PS issue to me, however, I have no experience with that exact problem myself. I only worked on this one and shared what I found with it. I guess I would check for AC ripple on the PS buss and go from there?
I have repaired two of those with your help. Thank you sir!
Awesome job. So glad it was helpful. Thanks for your kind comment!
Hello,
Where can I order this chip from? Have the same exact speaker and it has the same issue
Hi,
These are very hard to find right now. I have some links in description, but they are constantly out of stock. I have a link for Amazon I will share for reference m, but the price is too high it's for reference only.
amzn.to/3y1rB9Y
The MP2307 could be a possible replacement if check it out well. I have not used it, but it's similar.
www.ebay.com/itm/392318769050?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=elZ-z3P6RkC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=D_qZMHXJQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
What size heat gun is needed to do this particular chip replacement?
I used the hot air station that is in the video description as a link, it works well for the money. Most hot air stations should work.
Could i send you my board/back to fix?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Just found this since mine has the same issue with no lights. I can solder basic things but I probably would not be able to do this myself. Is there a way to buy that entire board to swap out?
I do not know of anywhere that sells these parts. You may get lucky on eBay with a saved search to notify you when one shows up?
@@ThriftyToolShed i did end up buying the board and hooked everything back up and everything lit up, but wouldn't sync back no matter what i tried.
Man.... Sounds like you did an awesome job and got the power back on. Now it will not reconnect, I have had several comments about that as well. Even though I have not seen one do that myself it seems to be more common than I originally thought it to be. Sorry to hear yours will not connect. Seems like an issue with the Bluetooth board itself as well.
@@ThriftyToolShed I can connect via Bluetooth from my phone to the sound bar as that always worked, but just won't sync with the sub. Very frustrating
This same Ic goes fault on some Bose stuff too mate
Question. I don't think I'm skilled enough to do this and I don't have the tools. Is it possible to bridge two points so it's always on. Would that work? Thanks.
Well it's actually a DC-DC converter chip that is faulty so it's missing the low voltage supply. It would need a supply on that low voltage rail.
@@ThriftyToolShed Ah. Right. So chip definitely needs to be replaced. I guess I can give it a go. The sub was basically free. Nothing to loose really. I asked around but there's nobody in my small town that is qualified to do it.
@@acgolem
It is getting harder to find people that will work with SMD components. Microscopes help tremendously. Best of luck to ya.
Hi, thank you for sharing this video, I found it extremely useful and I learnt a lot. I checked my subwoofer and it was indeed the same TPS54334 failure, i replace it but know im not getting 18V on the power board? Any suggestion what should I check? Fuse is OK. Before replacement I had 18V on the power board pins on top and the chip was indeed burnt. Any ideas?
Make sure you have no bridges on your new chip and I would look for hot spots on the board when powered on. That is assuming something is not already opened up of course such as a fuse or Rectifier? I did not have an issue with my power supply side so I can't say for sure as I did not have to look at that one very much. This was the only one I ever worked on. Thanks for your comment and best of luck to ya!
Thx for your reply. I checked for bridges but i think is ok. I unplugged the cable betweeen power board and main board and have no voltage measuring directly to the pins. Any ideas will be appreciated
Finally i can say the power board its ok. If i unplugged the wire to connect to the main board i didnt get any voltage but i charge a capacitor with just the multineter and i got 18v voltage when plugin to AC. So i think is a bridge on the new chip, even if i dont say any. What would be the result when measuring with ohmnimeter between pins? Im getting open circuit on one side and close circuit on the other, could be ok? No idea whats inside the chip and how it works
@@davidv1761
Its been a while since I touched this, and it was the only one I ever worked on and I had no issue to go further. I wish I could say, I would check positive output of supply to ground and see if it is infact low ohms to ground. I would think even with the chip across it should not be low ohms from positive side back to common or ground. But you should be even higher than that if the supply is disconnected from board?
Helle,
i have the same problem,
but i cant find the right chip from TI on the Internet.
Can i use the TPS54334DDA from TI?
I have reference link in the description. I believe it is correct replacement. Link for reference only as sellers vary daily. choose the best the you based on shipping and cost. Best of luck to ya!
0:09
what would i do if the actual sub speaker has blown, i think my unit is a sealed unit, and I'm not sure what to do or how to fix it, it still works just makes a real bad rattle sound under use. my sub is the "SA-WMT300"
I have not experienced that to say for sure. I fixed this one for a friend and the only one I have worked on. I would look for any information on it and go from there. It may be hard to find, but it's worth effort to check. If you have no luck finding an exact replacement, it is possible to get one close. The speaker may have the rating on it or at least if it's 8 ohm or 4 ohm etc. then if the complete unit list the wattage, you can go by that to be close.
My 290 just went out - no light - found this video and I cannot repair myself as I don’t possess that skill. How much would it be to send it to your abs repair it? I have 2 of these sound bars in my home - one 390 and one 290 and my sound bar works fine - but depending on price to repair would determine whether I get it repaired or just buy a whole new 390
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repiar service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair. I don't have alot of time left, I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Hello good day!
I need help with this equipment, the client did not bring the bar, only the subwoofer, when checking, detected an integrated 8-pin shorted TPS54334, I changed it by installing the new one, and that's it, the equipment gave a signal of life, green led flashing and red (I said This is ok) but there is an additional problem, that it does not link with the bar. I actually did all the tests for the safe link. I disassembled the subwoofer and I do not see anything strange. The voltage reaches the bluetooth card. Change some capacitors. I have come to think that the piece of Replacement does not work, I have doubts when I turn on the led it goes from red to the link link link it changes to flashing green then to red. I thank you if you can help me, I do not give up easily.
I know what you mean. It's hard to give up on a repair. I have only had the one issue so if you are getting the 3.3V rail I would think your chip is most likely ok now? I have not had issues with the Bluetooth board/module but sounds possible.
yes, I have the same problem, after replacing the chip I can't link the subwoofer to the sound bar. And I don't why
Any ideas?
thank you!
Я тоже столкнулся с такой же проблемой. После замены чипа световой индикатор работает, но связи сабвуфера со звуковой панелью нет. Сабвуфер понимает что он в поиске звуковой панелью, так как режим работы светодиода меняется, но подключение не происходит. Любые идеи?
@@СергейПарамонов-н6с У меня подозрение на то, что Bluetooth модуль тоже пришел в негодность. Он у меня очень сильно греется. Я не уверен, что это так должно быть.
@@OvchinnikovAlex спасибо за ответ. Поискал в интернете, оказывается это частая проблема с Блютус модулем, он тоже выходит из строя
Where can I buy the chip
I have links in the video description. The eBay link is most likely long gone. The Newark and even the Amazon link is most likely still good.
How much would it cost usually to get it fixed?
I am not sure. I do not have repair shop. Simply sharing how to fix things with others, on the bright side more people out there with skills or desire to learn skills should see how it's done? The IC itself that fixed this one was only around $4. It's getting harder to find and of course it takes someone's time to do it. Best of luck to ya with yours!
Thanks for posting this video. With your help, I was able to diagnose the problem and then order a whole new board. But here's my question, is there a way of preventing this from happening again? Is it heat related or just wrong IC for the job?
Excellent question. When I first posted this video I had no idea how many out there had a similar issue. I see now that there are many with similar issues. I did not check into the load on this chip when I had this one in front of me to say for sure. At first I thought maybe just a bad batch of chips and I guess it still could be. I do wonder if the chip is not pushed a little too hard though. Sorry I have no more information as I have not worked on another one myself yet. Thanks for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for commenting back to me 😁. I'm no electronics person, so I may try and use the unit and just see if it gets hot? In my head, fitting a small heatsink can't hurt 🤕... Though I may just order another board while they're in stock on eBay 🤣
@@dafydds what is the model # for the board? Thank you.
@@xantherdaywstedx A2165413A / F13066651 - Sony SUB MAIN
How do I replace the woofer in sony s20r ?
Well thank you my friend. I'm a beginner and I subscribed to your post. Is there a way to communicate with you or is there a link or website that you consider good for getting these tools and info including schematics.
Gotta start somewhere... SSB
Hi Scott,
So glad you find these things interesting. I do have many links down in the video descriptions of tools and items I use myself and find helpful. I also have a small Facebook group to try and help when people ask questions and we can share pdf and other docs etc. there as well. As far as schematics, they are almost non existent these days and it makes it much more challenging for sure so we share what we can as we learn together. If you have any questions that I can help you with, feel free to post on the Facebook group "On The Bench" also my email is thriftytoolshed@gmail.com
I wish you the best in learning it is super fun and I have enjoyed learning how things work all my life.
Yes thank you so much I had just found them in the description right after I wrote you.
@@ThriftyToolShed I've got an older Sony subwoofer ss-ws42 I was just trying to figure out how to get inside. It looks like the front should come off but I don't want to break it
I have not worked on that model to say. I would think they would be similar, but you never know from one design to another.
My subwoofer is not connecting to the sound bar anymore.. The red light is on how to fix it
You might just need to relink it. Mine had a red light too. Once I unplugged it, the light never turned on. Why I am here. Sony website has some troubleshooting you can try
Thats a mighty fine tutorial sir…well done👍
After chip replacement cant pair sub with soundbar any ideas?
I did not have any issues with that to say for sure. I am assuming you got your 3.3V and your led lights up in front of sub?
I have not seen that. I worked on the one. Once I got the 3.3V bus back up, I got my led lights. Gave it to the owner to make sure it worked correctly . It paired for my friend right away. He had no issue.
@@ThriftyToolShed yes ligts come back but only green flshing, asked sony support they dont have clue too
I have not seen that, sorry. Most likely in the Bluetooth module. Possible I guess that the BT module took out the 3.3V rail to start with, but I would not think so.
I have the same problem it power on but no pair could be the bluetooth module that is failing?
What if the large capacitor has blown and leaked white stuff everywhere?
That's not great. If your lucky you can clean up the board well and replace the cap and be back in business. One things to make sure of is that you clean the Board extremely well with high percentage IPA or plastic safe contact cleaner so you don't have bad corrosion later from the cap electrolyte.
Great vid - just what I needed. Please provide links for the tape products you used. ALso, will my harbor freight height gun be sufficient? Trying to do this without a huge investment. Right now it doesn't work, so If i try and it fix it, great. If not, no real loss.
I have added the tape to the links already in description as well as the hot air station I use. I can not say for sure, but I would not think the heat gun would work very well?
Mine as well same issue can't fix it
My model WCT290
Found one of these subwoofers half-off at Goodwill today. Very, very happy I did not buy it.
Love your work. Interesting that on such a small chip, heatsink solder pad is used to draw heat. I'm thinking that's probably the issue.... heat is not being dissipated efficiently. Gluing a piece of aluminum foil might do the trick as long as it doesn't touch other components' terminations. This subwoofer hadn't been in a market that long 5-6 years. Any thing that doesn't last 10 years isn't a well engineered product in my opinion.
I'm having the same issues with the same model, thanks
Brilliant video. Saved me a lot of money. The IC chip was gone in mine as well. I did not have the tools so I just ordered a new green board and after replacing it all is working fine. Thank you very much again.
Excellent! Great Option. Thanks so much for sharing!
How do you remove the ribbon cables?
Hi, I did not remove the ribbon from mine since it fit under my microscope just fine. Most of these ribbon cables have a locking tab you will have to slide up and then the ribbon will slide out. Some have a lever that opens and locks back, but I don't remember these being that type. Seems like this one has the tabs you slide upward to unlock.
Where did you ordered the green board from and what was the part number ?
What green board are you referring to?
I have problem with my sony HT-S20r no power on it
Sounds like it could possibly be an issue with main power supply.
@@ThriftyToolShed NOW ITS ON I DONT KNOW WHAT IS WRONG BUT NOW IT DOESNT PUT OUT SOUND IT JUST MUTTED NO SOUND IS COMING OUT OF IT NOW SOUND BAR AND SUBWOOFER
I only worked on this one I shared the video on. Sorry it's the only issue I had and I shared what I learned. I can't say for sure other than that.
It looks hard I threw mine away a year ago I just got a used one hope this don't happen to it 😔
Спасибо, эта инструкция помогла решить проблему
Не возникло ли у вас проблем соединения саба со звуковой панелью после ремонта?
in my case was the sound bar :( there's no replacement 😭😭😭 but my subeoofer works fine
Dang it!
Me too - I'm hoping to make an experiment out of it, and see if I can repurpose the subwoofer by running wires to it. Can't find anyone that's ever tried that, or how to easily trace the wires to tap them into the input where the wireless signal would come in?
super job thanks for the info
We all deserve the level of police protection we each require. However most of us cannot count on the police to help us.
Same problem. I will never buy another Sony product.
Sorry to hear of your issue. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you mine just gave out today
Sony Sucks. The same thing has happened to the subwoofer of my HT-C290
Same thing happened to my HT CT 790.
Sony did that with purpose ??? it should brake down after 4-5 years max. So u have to buy a new one.
It sounded good but not reliable enough.
Bye bye Sony, I will try Corean next time.
same thing happened to my subwoofer too they have made it on purpose.
Good work.
Nice channel! I just subbed!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks!
I have the 660 sub
Has anyone here been able to successfully receive the chip they ordered on newark, Amazon, or eBay?
Q8001 position
I called Sony customer support regarding this issue, with my device being just over a year old they told me to go pound sand.
It looks like Sony is now producing garbage and is not taking any responsibility for the pre-mature failure of there products.
Apparently I will need to start warming up to Samsung TV's because I will not be buying anything with a Sony logo ever again.
Dang, that sucks! Sorry to hear that, thanks for sharing this with us. Hopefully some repair shops are starting to repair these with some cost savings? Best of luck to ya!
Hi
con subtitulos en español
Never again Sony
I used to think Sony was one of the best you can buy. I avoid the Sony name at all costs now. Not the same company!
This subwoofer is really a piece of crap: mine was broken for the 2nd time. It's a shame for Sony corp.
Usual Sony Junk
No mames puro ingles