Yes unfortunately perpendicular blocking on 16" center would be better to support picture frame. As you've done it, you've created a puddle of water under all the cut ends.
Yup, no joist tape either. The homeowner is going to have a bad time in a few years as that moister is also going to get up under those picture frames and rot them faster too.
It'll last longer than 3 years I've done them the same way but I also put vinyl sloped slightly to protect the wood but this way is fine for alot longer than 2-3 years. Good job man
When doing composite, and your doing picture frame, also do picture frame on steps. Looks so much better then just the exposed end grain. Or hide the end with a closed stringer facial board
@@tommysmalls8634 To do this properly you have to plan ahead and install a joist so that the ends of the inner boards overhang it about an inch. Its more work but the measuring involved is pretty simple. Take your board widths, gap spacing, inner overhang and subtract your outer overhang: 5.5" + 5.5" + 0.25" + 0.25" + 1" - 1.5" = 11". That solid blocking like that will rot in a few years.
I’m currently building a 40 x 16 deck and also using foggy wharf. I’m picture framing with clam shell. I understand your customer did not want two colors but since you mentioned it in the video about what color would go with foggy wharf I figured I would mention what I chose. It actually looks kind of nice. Winchester gray looks better but it’s 1/16 thinner so, no good. Also, Since it’s come up several times I will mention also, I simply do vertical blocking on 12” centers for my picture frame. The 45° corners look nice but I try to do herringbone corners because of distortion from expansion and contraction. Everybody has a different opinion on that as it seems but herringbone is my preference most of the time.
I am in the process of doing a very similar deck. Picture frame and all. Can you tell me how much overhang you go with before the fascia is installed? Also, do you have a follow up to this project installing surface mounted posts? Right now I am still in the process of prepping my frame for the picture frame with blocking. I intend to mount my posts before laying the deck and notching the picture frame around them. You clearly decided to go with surface mount posts. Any advice before I commit to installing them first?
This should help with post and rail install. We have the deck boards overhang 1.25" before the facia is installed. The fascia is roughly .5" think so that still leaves .5" to .75" of overhang. Thanks for the feed back! I hope you've subscribed and liked the videos!
It’s actually a horrible idea. Water will sit and completely rot all those boards!!! Never do this!!! Also, should use water shield on ALL tops of joists and any bridging etc
I dont see gaps at the mitered picture frame corners for expansion. I just finished my deck & did a double picture frame without the gaps. I like the way it looks without the gaps. I'm hoping in the 90 degree summer in NY that the expansion doesnt mess it up. I installed the deck in 70 degree weather this past fall 2020. I used trex "clam shell" it's a scalloped bottom. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK...WILL I HAVE AN EXPANSION PROBLEM?
Ok, i got ya. The inner board is notched into the post. The outer is not. Looking back we should have just torn the deck completely down and started from scratch. I dont block this way anymore either. My more current videos show the new approach we take. Thanks
A good pattern too is 2 rows picture frame then 2 rows regular then 2 rows picture and 2 rows regular....you know what i mean but you might have to put in 8 inch centers
Looks good but dude am I the only one that thingks those screws look like garbage? Maybe because its four years ago, they hjave hidden screws that blend in, your screws even don't look flush. Deck looks good though
@@adventuresofahandyman4446I take it to a landfill. Or you can just keep burning it but at the very least you should tell the ppl around you, especially children, that its toxic.
With that much blocking water has no chance to shed away. Moisture will sit between the composite decking and the blocking and the blocking will rot after time
Incorrect Trex framing, 16' O.C. joist will allow Trex to sag. 12: O.C. is the Trex recommendation Also, I agree with others never place spacers flat this deck will fail in a short period of time due to rot no matter treated. If you going to pay up for Trex then either use Trex hidden fasteners or buy a commercially available jig to edge fasten with screws to hide the screws. Trex is a composite plastic vaneer around a wood composite core, breaking the waterproof plastic vaneer just allow moisture to attack the core.
@@HANDYMANHEADQUARTERS it does grow slow starting out. Actually, mine still grows kinda slow but mainly because I dont stay consistent with continent. I was able to get Tom from mr. Fix all to give me a plug on his channel. That helped. And then later, the handyman bragged on me a little and that made my channel jump about 700 subs in a day or too. Just stay persistent and it'll grow. I'll also say that I dont make a whole lotta $ off this channel. Maybe $100 a month but again, that's probably because I dont consistently feed it with good videos. Some of my videos are probably a little too dull
Trex is a horrible product that does not stand up. It is VERY prone to bending and warping. Talk to a contractor that has used it and you'll find out. Trex used to be the only option, but there are much better options in the market now.
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 We take ours to the dump. It costs a bit, but we factor that into the customer pricing. For a deck that size, about $60-80 in my area.
Nice 45 at the 3:21 mark...NOT! the spacing is incorrect. You don't block like that unless you put the butyl rubber tape over to prevent rot! Whoever that deck was built for, will be pulling it up in 5-10 years, thanks to you! Sorry, don't mean to be a mean, just constructive. To be honest, I stopped watching after about 4 minutes
Instead of the tape...I also find that 2 coats of an oil based sealer under the picture frame is a good idea. I also drill some 1 1/2" holes to drain the water & spray clear sealer in each hole so the wood doesnt wick up the water as it drains through it.
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 you must have had a good night because there aint nothing you cut thats straight,, and why not sink new posts for stairs hand rail instead of joining? and i love the bowed boards up against the house, must be an American thing going on there coz if that was done here in the UK the home owner would bury the guy under it, have a nice day, rule Britannia...........decking boards must be straight.........try using a spacer on the edge......... it will look.......... great great great great great
Yes unfortunately perpendicular blocking on 16" center would be better to support picture frame. As you've done it, you've created a puddle of water under all the cut ends.
Yup, no joist tape either. The homeowner is going to have a bad time in a few years as that moister is also going to get up under those picture frames and rot them faster too.
It'll last longer than 3 years I've done them the same way but I also put vinyl sloped slightly to protect the wood but this way is fine for alot longer than 2-3 years. Good job man
The blocking is also support for the posts.
When doing composite, and your doing picture frame, also do picture frame on steps. Looks so much better then just the exposed end grain. Or hide the end with a closed stringer facial board
Don’t want use that type of blocking for your border, water and dirt will collect underneath and cause rotting.
Why not just block 16” oc in between the outer joist?
Exactly what I was thinking. Same thing beneath the steps.
Then the inner deck board ends wouldn’t have any support coming into the picture frame.
@@tommysmalls8634 To do this properly you have to plan ahead and install a joist so that the ends of the inner boards overhang it about an inch. Its more work but the measuring involved is pretty simple. Take your board widths, gap spacing, inner overhang and subtract your outer overhang: 5.5" + 5.5" + 0.25" + 0.25" + 1" - 1.5" = 11". That solid blocking like that will rot in a few years.
@@livens100 correct - I was responding to Reverend Hogwash.
Perhaps some sticky ice n water membrane would have been a good idea on the blocking?
I’m currently building a 40 x 16 deck and also using foggy wharf. I’m picture framing with clam shell. I understand your customer did not want two colors but since you mentioned it in the video about what color would go with foggy wharf I figured I would mention what I chose. It actually looks kind of nice. Winchester gray looks better but it’s 1/16 thinner so, no good. Also, Since it’s come up several times I will mention also, I simply do vertical blocking on 12” centers for my picture frame. The 45° corners look nice but I try to do herringbone corners because of distortion from expansion and contraction. Everybody has a different opinion on that as it seems but herringbone is my preference most of the time.
Great thoughts! I just completed a deck with foggy wharf wrapped in clam shell. Looks great. Shoot me an email and I can send you a picture
why aren't the screws flush or countersunk with boards?
You will get a better look on the stair treads if you picture frame the stairs. Check it out, you'll like the look.
Will do. Great idea. Thanks!
Great job on the deck and the framing. What do you use for the stringer facing?
I use trex fascia. They make it in 12" pieces
This was the perfect video. Thank you.
I am in the process of doing a very similar deck. Picture frame and all. Can you tell me how much overhang you go with before the fascia is installed? Also, do you have a follow up to this project installing surface mounted posts?
Right now I am still in the process of prepping my frame for the picture frame with blocking. I intend to mount my posts before laying the deck and notching the picture frame around them. You clearly decided to go with surface mount posts. Any advice before I commit to installing them first?
ua-cam.com/video/eSCowevioqg/v-deo.html
This should help with post and rail install. We have the deck boards overhang 1.25" before the facia is installed. The fascia is roughly .5" think so that still leaves .5" to .75" of overhang. Thanks for the feed back! I hope you've subscribed and liked the videos!
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 Thanks. That's perfect info. And I most certainly did (subscribed, that is)!
Nice work man, what brand and colour are those composite boards ?
This is Trex foggy wharf. Thanks!
Nice! I’m gonna hire you guys to do all my deck jobs!
Sold!
Awesome! I just don’t think you’ll want to make that commute!😂
Have really enjoyed your videos. Getting ready to redo my PT deck with Trex to cut down on maintenance. What impact driver do you recommend?
I have a cordless dewalt. The hidden fasteners come with the tip that you'll need. Good luck and thanks!
Adventures of a Handyman thanks...any particular model?
@@robnan2510 I've had it so long I really dont know.🙂. It comes in the set with 20v battery, charger and driver
Great idea for picture framing support !!!! Has the added bonus of allowing you to use up a lot of scrap.
It’s actually a horrible idea. Water will sit and completely rot all those boards!!! Never do this!!! Also, should use water shield on ALL tops of joists and any bridging etc
@@anthonycahill5220 so use a joist then?
Nice deck!
Why didn’t you use the special clips on the stairs with the screw built in to not see the screws gives it a cleaner look
Have you used those before?
After looking closer on the video looks as if your composite boards would not be compatibl, they should have a slit on side
I dont see gaps at the mitered picture frame corners for expansion. I just finished my deck & did a double picture frame without the gaps. I like the way it looks without the gaps. I'm hoping in the 90 degree summer in NY that the expansion doesnt mess it up. I installed the deck in 70 degree weather this past fall 2020. I used trex "clam shell" it's a scalloped bottom. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK...WILL I HAVE AN EXPANSION PROBLEM?
If you installed during direct sunlight I wouldn't worry.
@@Jimbogf not true. 90 degree will expand it by at least 1/8" total. Need to have at least 1/16" gap at miter joints.
Looks awesome
Great job
Your supports for the picture frame are just going to hold water. Why not put joist tape down while they are exposed.
I was thinking the same exact thing
what s the better approach?
@@redtruck32 put some joist tape down to keep the water off of the horizontal surfaces
I would just run another joist parallel to the others, could even use smaller stock
Yeah not a fan with the way you braved this deck. Those boards are going to trap water and rot. Classic rot pocket....
Shouldn’t those 2x8 stringers be on top of those 4x4 posts?
Stringers on top? 2x8's?
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 look at 0:56. Shouldn’t those horizontal board s be on top of the 4x4 posts, not attached to the sides?
Ok, i got ya. The inner board is notched into the post. The outer is not. Looking back we should have just torn the deck completely down and started from scratch. I dont block this way anymore either. My more current videos show the new approach we take. Thanks
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 thanks for the insight. I didn’t see the notching and that makes sense.
A good pattern too is 2 rows picture frame then 2 rows regular then 2 rows picture and 2 rows regular....you know what i mean but you might have to put in 8 inch centers
Do you have a gap on the mitre?
How’s the handyman business going are you doing a full-time now
Yep! Jan 1st was a year. Going good but lots of room for improvement
Rot pockets with that style of blocking. You should have a least used joint flashing if you’re going to build with that method.
Check out my latest video
Try doing a picture frame on the front board of the stairs. It's not really any more work and it'll look a lot better.
Great idea. I'll do that. Someone else posted the same thing. Dont know why I haven't thought of it. Thanks
Looks good but dude am I the only one that thingks those screws look like garbage? Maybe because its four years ago, they hjave hidden screws that blend in, your screws even don't look flush. Deck looks good though
Very sturdy but damn that's a lot of wood
Blocking should installed on edge. Laying flat allow water to stay on its surface. Especially bad give you didnt tape your joists.
I agree. This is an older video. You’ll see in my newer that I did like you said
Nice water holder
Burning pressure treated lumber is dangerous and illegal in all 50 states. You should be aware of that for future work.
Illegal? I don't know about that
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 Well you can always google it if you'd like. Ignoramce is no excuse
@@thegg5097 oh, ok. So what am I supposed to do with it?
@@adventuresofahandyman4446I take it to a landfill. Or you can just keep burning it but at the very least you should tell the ppl around you, especially children, that its toxic.
Did you cover the frame supports to prevent rot? I live in New England and worried about the snow
I did not but I'm in SC. You could cover
Looking good
Thanks!
You need to time lapse the entire job. Get your time up to 10 minutes for that ad dough.
10 4
Great way for water to sit
@@OrignalRobRobert thanks peckerwood
With that much blocking water has no chance to shed away. Moisture will sit between the composite decking and the blocking and the blocking will rot after time
Have you worked with trex before?
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 yes and other composites as well. The amount of blocking is not required with any decking product including wood
@@morrismonk7152 👌. Have you watched my more recent video of picture framing a deck?
Incorrect Trex framing, 16' O.C. joist will allow Trex to sag. 12: O.C. is the Trex recommendation Also, I agree with others never place spacers flat this deck will fail in a short period of time due to rot no matter treated. If you going to pay up for Trex then either use Trex hidden fasteners or buy a commercially available jig to edge fasten with screws to hide the screws. Trex is a composite plastic vaneer around a wood composite core, breaking the waterproof plastic vaneer just allow moisture to attack the core.
Trek says 16 oc is fine
You kinda skipped over the important part. On laying and cutting the picture framing boards.
How is that old deck not all rotten.
You got the tool nice!!!
Whoop!whoop!
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 How is your channel doing? how long have you had it? Mine is growing slow.
@@HANDYMANHEADQUARTERS it does grow slow starting out. Actually, mine still grows kinda slow but mainly because I dont stay consistent with continent. I was able to get Tom from mr. Fix all to give me a plug on his channel. That helped. And then later, the handyman bragged on me a little and that made my channel jump about 700 subs in a day or too. Just stay persistent and it'll grow. I'll also say that I dont make a whole lotta $ off this channel. Maybe $100 a month but again, that's probably because I dont consistently feed it with good videos. Some of my videos are probably a little too dull
Trex is a horrible product that does not stand up. It is VERY prone to bending and warping. Talk to a contractor that has used it and you'll find out. Trex used to be the only option, but there are much better options in the market now.
Another construction hack job.
That's not the right way to lay trex. Your butting round edges to squared edges
You burn pt wood? My dude… that stuff is nasty.
What do you suggest I do with it?
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 bury in the landfill! It's the only clean way. Same thing for ply and OSB
@@pimc172 how is that better for the environment?
Not a good way to dead wood block those will catch hold water and rot with in 6 years I've gone behind others that have done this.
Another unsolicited deck video :)
That's right
Shame about the screws showing
Yep...should've use hidden fasteners.
You shouldn’t burn treated lumber. Terrible for your health and the environment. Stuff has nasty chemicals in it......
What should I do with it?
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 We take ours to the dump. It costs a bit, but we factor that into the customer pricing. For a deck that size, about $60-80 in my area.
@@flattenedfrog yeah but I don’t see how that’s any better than burning them
Nice 45 at the 3:21 mark...NOT! the spacing is incorrect. You don't block like that unless you put the butyl rubber tape over to prevent rot! Whoever that deck was built for, will be pulling it up in 5-10 years, thanks to you! Sorry, don't mean to be a mean, just constructive. To be honest, I stopped watching after about 4 minutes
That's for your amazing insights...not! Post your video and show me better. I dont know it all but I've built enough to know enough.
Instead of the tape...I also find that 2 coats of an oil based sealer under the picture frame is a good idea. I also drill some 1 1/2" holes to drain the water & spray clear sealer in each hole so the wood doesnt wick up the water as it drains through it.
absolute piss poor of a job, great vid in how NOT to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Tom. You’re a peach
@@adventuresofahandyman4446 you must have had a good night because there aint nothing you cut thats straight,, and why not sink new posts for stairs hand rail instead of joining? and i love the bowed boards up against the house, must be an American thing going on there coz if that was done here in the UK the home owner would bury the guy under it, have a nice day, rule Britannia...........decking boards must be straight.........try using a spacer on the edge......... it will look.......... great great great great great