Excellent video! I'm a 77 year old retried auto, aircraft, and boat mechanic. I am very impressed with your work. A rare thing to see these days. Thank you!
I wish you made more Honda Ridgeline videos! It's so incredible to watch you work I know I can't do this job but it is so fantastic. I love that you include all of the foot pound torque specs, thank you so much
Very good video, everything you need to know, plus your great trick to get the harmonic balancer bolt loose. Warning about the parts was unnerving, seemed to have the Honda markings on the packages. Thanks again!
Hands down the most underrated mechanics channel I’ve almost watched all of your videos. It’s all extremely useful information, little tricks for things you do in your videos help me out at work even on the heavy duty diesel side of things. And you never know what side work might fall into your lap good to have info
You have probably heard of this. Found this out when I was attempting my first timing belt change on an 89 Acura Legend, could not get the pulley nut off. Car was a standard and no matter what I tried, the motor turned over. Local mechanic told me a great trick. Get a Johnson bar with the right sized nut (22 mm as I recall) and jam it up in the suspension, ground or what ever. Disconnect the ignition, plugs whatever to make sure the engine won't start, then just turn the engine over. Worked like magic, came right off !!!!
People always tell me that stuff, but I don't want to take the chance of breaking a starter, or anything. Be fun if someone tried that on a d16. It runs counter clockwise 🤪.
Just did my own. Be careful with the rear camshaft moving on you. I marked the original timing belt at each mark and with the crank I made my own. Then I scribed it to the new one and matched right up. I also didn't drain the radiator and needed just under a gallon to fill it back up. Took me about 7 hrs or so
You Rock 🤘🏻! The most complete auto repair video I’ve ever watched. You were calling out all sizes, pounds, clips and more while you were doing your thing! Awesome
@@RustBeltAuto I put one of those amazon kits on my odyssey, accord, and RL. Should I redo the job on all of em with a kit from a known good source? No weird issues or noises from the timing yet on any of them.
Thanks for posting this video. By far the best, most thorough description I could find in one place. Followed step by step not a thing missed, torque specs along the way even. I ended up using 2x 2ft breaker bars for the crank bolt. Great video
Video was helpful. However for actually putting on the timing belt, I found the Prodemand method better. It says to leave the idler pulley bolt loose as youre putting the belt around, then tighten it up after the belt is on. I found this worked better, plus then theres a little less risk compared to wrenching on the cam and potentially putting your camshaft out of proper position. More than one way to skin a cat though and im sure your way can work fine too. Good video overall and nice to have the torque specs included
That is a tremendous amount of work. I just had the the timing belt and water pump as well as spark plugs replaced on my 2006 Honda Pilot and Honda Ridgeline it costed me 2,060 for both vehicles. And it money very will spent. It a lot of work for the mechanics.
I know this is an older video but on removing the harmonic balancer bolt, I wedge the one piece like you do with an 18" or so 3/4 inch breaker bar. Next I get about a 2 foot 1/2 inch extension bar with the 19mm socket and place onto the bolt. Next I get a jack stand and raised it to about the height of the extension bar so the extension bar is relatively flat/horizontal when place onto the jack stand. I place the extension bar at the furthest point away from the bolt but still allowing access to the end on the jack stand. Then I take a 4 foot 1" breaker bark and use a 5 foot pipe that fits over the end about a foot or so and attach it to the extension bar so I will be pushing down in the same side as the other breaker bar versus using a jack to raise. This gives me a ton of leverage and I have never had a problem but yes those bolts are on their super tight. This does require a large long breaker bar and pipe but it is well worth it.
Thank you for the video! Also, it’s AWESOME that you fast forward the parts of the video that, well, should be fast forwarded 😊. Got my Ridgeline ready for another 100k.
It was at that moment I knew somebody else had fucked up, you said if it's not nice and floppy somebody fucked up! I think I found out why my tensioner won't go on! Thanks man you're fucking entertaining to watch too and very precise which is excellent.
I have heard of people doing that before on different vehicles. Always afraid of breaking a starter, or flywheel, or something, so I have never done it.
Tackling a timing belt on a 01 MDX. Tried everything to remove the crank bolt to no luck. Pulled out the torque multiplier and off she comes no problem 😊
Thank you for your informative video 👍 Our favorite mechanic retired who worked on all our vehicles 😔I do not trust the new kid who took over his shop. He's extremely expensive and I was not satisfied the work he did on my vehicle. I had to take it back for the same fuel pump issue. Turns out it was a bad TIPM on my 2011 Ram Truck. So, I am going to do this on my own on the wifey's 2006 Ody. I have had some basic experience working on my 1997 Accord timing belt in the past. Wish me Luck!
Great video! I am doing mine now and although there in no mention anywhere of the timing belt being changed before (has 193k miles now), the crank bolt came out relatively easy and now I am wondering about the crank pulley washer and its orientation. It looks to be flattened out a bit but I think I can still make out the concave side but what side does the concave side go on? The TDC dimple on the washer also has a concave and convex side. Thanks!
I have a question i bought an 07 ridgeline used and it shows the timing belt was replaced 30,000 miles ago but it has been 6 years as well. I know thats not a lot of miles on a belt but what about the years ? Should i go by mileage or years more ?
I got an extra 30k on a Honda belt (prelude), before it started crumbling (meaning 130k total). My Ridgeline is currently overdue by 40k (belt likely aftermarket, done at Tire Kingdom, more than 10yrs ago). I’d say you’re fine for quite awhile.. as long as it’s not a chinsy belt. My alternator burned up last night..50 mls from home. I took it as a warning ... am changing overdue timing belt tomorrow, 07 Ridgeline 280k NAPA has good deal right now,on timing kit AISIN
@cocksureness thank you for your reply. It's definitely a good brand of belt I did some research into the brand. I know only 30k on a belt was not a lot but then others have said that 6 years is I appreciate your input I will hold off for a bit. And my 07 has 150k on the engine and tranny good to always see others with the same vehicle with such high mileage.
Got mine @ 140k .. no issues till after 200-220k. Replaced radiator (leak) & both front axles (inner & outer boot cracked). Only got a year on aftermarket axles - (ugh). Blower inside requires tapping on it sometimes, power steering fluid leak - at the rack (I just refill).. and the alternator (2 nights ago).. gave battery light warning 15 min prior to total failure. I expect to get to 300k easily. Awesome truck. Best advice.. shop manual/do the work yourself (even Dealerships can’t be trusted to do it right).. and use OEM parts as much as possible.
My 06 Ridgeline broke on the road , im assuming the hydraulic tensioner went bad and the belt slipped but didnt break cuz i can see the lifters move through the oil filling hole when i try to start the engine ,im thinking ill do less initial work and just take the covers off line up everything correctly and replace only the hydraulic tensioner without removing the engine mount and keeping the old belt just to get it running and see if the valves got bent or not before i do extra work you think it could be do that way just to get it running for a bit to hear the engine
There is going to be something else wrong. Those tensioners get loose, without the belt slipping. People replace just the tensioner, when they start rattling all the time.
Someone already mentioned that. I looked at Amazon reviews on that thing, and some people still cannot get that bugger off with it. Still on the fence on if I should get one. The jack is always fun.
@@RustBeltAuto if you have a good impact gun, get one. They work. I have a CTA brand but they probably are all the same. Wish I would have had one 20 years ago. I've never understood why they put the crank pulley on so tight. I understand the theory, but Jeez! But I do like your Rube Goldberg way also!
Be careful, he has a high impact wrench which most of us don't, so once you take the pulley off the crankshaft and tighten the 19mm bolt, you can't take it off without turning the crankshaft. I had to measure and used a bit to stop it from turning by wedging it against the frame. Also, he is using the green radiator fluid, and the ridgeline uses the blue.
The color of coolant doesn't mean anything. Different manufacturers use different colors. It is global coolant. Good for everything. Borate, nitrate, slicate free.
I just completed a timing kit on my ridgeline and realized I never checked the torque or tightness on the nut/bolt on the new timing tensioner pulley….do they come pre torqued?
Lyle mlheavy mass 19mm socket tooly brothers 2012 Ridgeline crank bolt off like byagic when we broke a heavy duty half inch breaker and My brother 's huge 300 lb cranking on it and the Lyle took it off in seconds so I highly recommend everyone pay the 25 bucks and buy one before you start this job and at the worst it just won't work and you can go back to cranking on it like I did on my last job and using a propane torch. I was using a kobalt 750 foot pound impact wrench with it that I got from Lowe's couple years ago for 150 bucks I think and because my home air compressor was down I was actually using the tank and compressor for my car's air suspension. So it didn't have a powerful compressor behind it and it still worked
I have everything in place, but when I pull the pin on the tensioner, the pushrod doesn't pop out. I can stick the pin right back in. Is that normal/ correct?
Aisin. Rock auto or something. This kit in the video was bought by the victim, and the belt was a fake knockoff. It was not genuine Honda, and didn't last long at all. Ebay, and Amazon sells fake Honda kits. Those kits you describe do not have a Japanese import water pump. That's the only pump I'm comfortable with.
@@RustBeltAuto Yamada is the OEM manufacturer since they switched from Aisin in 2006, though either manufacturer is fine to use for parts. Fake kits exist for both manufacturers though, so order your parts through the dealer or from a reputable source.
I'm just replacing the water pump. The cheap kit I bought has a timing belt, but I'm wondering if just using the one that's on it would be a better option. I don't want it to break.
I'm sorry to hear about that. I just changed all of the timing components on my Acura TL. I used the Aisin timing belt kit with the water pump. Thing's like that: I buy from a reputable parts store. That's definitely an area where cheap can get very expensive.
Oil pump seals are shot and the oil filter housing seal is shot too. I understand ya gotta remove the oil pan and exhaust. But other then that thanks for sharing. Cheers! Gotta do a Honda Pilot 2010. Ok bye lol
I wanna know what brand those gloves are I ain't seen them tear yet I use black nitros n their thick etc I would have all ready went through few pair lol
Just wanted to say Thanks for the video. I will not be changing any of this myself but the way you teach makes me think I can. However, I'm smart enough to know better, lol! Thanks Again!! Oh I do have a question, when is the best time to change the timing belt and water pump? Is is mileage related or years related? Thanks again!!
I think the manual say 6/60 for the belt. Most people go 10 years, or 100k miles. Some replace the pump, and pullies the second belt change, and tensioner every time.
@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the response. I was asking because I have located a 2014 with less than 20,000 miles clean Carfax and was wondering do I need to change everything as a precaution?
@@cdf8821 just the belt, and tensioner, if you choose to do anything. They leak hydraulic fluid when old, and rattle. The stuff probably looks almost new.
The engineers who design wear parts this difficult to replace should be shot. I've replaced timing belts and water pumps on other cars in less than an hour. This thing is a nightmare. No wonder it costs so much to have a Ridgeline timing belt replaced. Worth every penny it looks like.
@@RustBeltAuto That's simply a crime. But I guess it makes you money, so it's not all bad. I just did a Mitsubishi Montero Sport, and it was all out in the open with nothing much to remove at all. Just the fan shroud and fan. Easy breezy.
Drive side tight, driven side loose. Mark on crankshaft zero. One tooth off of movement on crankshaft is half tooth on cams. There is a variance of a half tooth either way on crankshaft from zero that you should see the camshaft marks line up. One tooth off on any gear is very noticeable.
Awesome video! I couldn't help notice you poured in cheap green coolant from Menards to mix with genuine Honda blue coolant. Your thoughts? The OEM coolant is the best product, this is clearly seen when you removed the original water pump and the block side looked like brand new aluminum.
I put global coolant in there. It was not your standard old green coolant. It's nitrate, borate, phosphate, silicate free, and good for all makes, and models. Don't let the color fool you. Menards, and wal-mart has the best deal.
Great video. I build and manage XX million dollar projects for Amazon and even with a spreadsheet with torque values, tools and instructions... I rather leave it to a professional like you. I have an 06’ Ridgeline with 217 thousand miles (I’m putting 11,000 a year on it) and I wanna get it to at least 300 thousand so I know I’ll be needing this job sooner than later. I did notice that the belt doesn’t look much different from the old one, but the tensioner was clearly weaker. QUESTION?: Outside of mileage recommendations what are some engine symptoms I should look for to let me know if it’s time to replace the tensioner? (Currently I have no check engine lights from AutoZone or O’Reillys.) This is an older video so I have no expectations for an answer, but God willing... I’d really be fortunate if you could! Thank you for such a detailed look into your work. People do complex work every day but very few know how to explain it in lamest terms!
Has anyone had trouble with the timing belt tensioner pulley? Specifically at 14:25 where he says if its not nice and floppy, you did something wrong? Torqued that bolt to 19 ft/lb and that pulley arm won't rotate. Looked at the old sleeve from the old belt and there's a spot where it's worn through layers of metal, so it's been rubbing. Of course the new kit didn't come with a new sleeve or bolt. This old one seems to be causing the tensioner pulley to get hung up. Idk if previous installer misaligned it and sent it anyway or what??
Did the timing belt on my wife’s 2013 odyssey last year 20k miles ago with all Orem parts. New belt, water pump, tensioners ect. Her timing belt broke today! I have no idea what caused it. I’ve got it mostly pulled apart but I cant get the crank bolt off this time. Guess I’ll throw a new belt on and run a compression test. Really puzzled here. I would think if I did anything wrong I would have known way before 20k miles of driving. For some reason the serpentine belt was pretty damaged too. I’m sure it’s related but not sure how.
@@ua7pyro591 yeah unfortunately it's so hard to tell unless you get directly from a dealer which is not always possible on some older ones like my 99 crv.
I couldn't get the belt on so I rotated the exhaust cam causing it to snap forward about 40 teeth. Now it won't stay at TDC without holding a wrench to it. How can i get it to stay put again?
It's global coolant. All global coolant is borate, and silicate free. This is not conventional green ethylene glycol coolant. I should have mentioned that.
hi- i wonder if you know how many revolutions of the crankshaft for 1 full timing sequence- I inadvertently turned my crankshaft with the timing belt off- i had both cam sprockets timing set but turned the crankshaft sprocket two revolutions
YOOOOOO!!!! I like your warning "do not do anything stupid!" Good life statement I'd say.... I was really hoping the timing belt was made by your favorite company, MITSUBASHEE!!! When you pulled the pin on the tensioner did you get Nam flash backs? (that was my only question for this video) If I recall, the 3.5 has a pretty wicked VTEC change over, they really wail! It's a JOB for sure! OKAY BYE!!!
You choose. I try to stick with Asain, or Japanese import water pump, or kit. I have now run into Toyota/Asain kits, that are not Japanese. Mitsubishi, Gates, Dayco, all sell quality belts. Cheap Chinese pulleys are fine. This kit had a fake knockoff belt in it. The dealer will give you the best quality control.
@@RustBeltAuto Aisin kit from Amazon Aisin Store should be good to use right? Already did this job three times with counterfeit kits(I think anyway), didn't know until I started watching through some of your videos and ran into this. Should I maybe just buy some new belts and slap those on if you're saying the kit failed due to knockoff belt?
@@codyspear1263 China is making a lot of fake everything. You need to make sure you are buying from a genuine parts supplier. Some of these suppliers do sell on amazon, and ebay. Some of it is fake.
Wow best video so far.. too bad its nor for my vehicle.. is this the same for a 2006 honda pilot? Appreciate anybody that can point me in the right direction
Hey man the border opens up I drive down there and if you have this job again I’ll do it on the house. I guarantee you haven’t seen it done as fast. Than you buy me a good mid western meal.
lol... I was working somewhere, and some rock star, and I had the same job come in on 2 of these, and he wanted to race. He couldn't keep up. I didn't behave like we were racing. This was the anal retentive version. Did the same thing with a rock star owner I worked for on GM 3.4 intakes. He said go, and I didn't know we were racing. He bent a valve, tried to claim he didn't put the wrong pushrod in there, and made the victim pay for it. Smooth criminal. I don't like to race. People tend to break things trying to go faster than they should. Now that I don't work for assholes, which all of them were, I have slowed down a lot too. Thanks for watching!
@@randylahey5005 I think timing belt cars, and non hydraulic valve trains are the most reliable idea all around. They just require maintenance. Non interference engines don't seem to have as good volumetric efficiency, so you kind of take the good with the bad. I like honda engineering too. It's top notch. IMHO this is one of the best v-6's ever made.
Insane that you will have to do this every 100k ..and it really isnt a diy job. I can image people selling off the truck before replacing the belt and waterpump
Excellent video! I'm a 77 year old retried auto, aircraft, and boat mechanic. I am very impressed with your work. A rare thing to see these days. Thank you!
I wish you made more Honda Ridgeline videos! It's so incredible to watch you work I know I can't do this job but it is so fantastic. I love that you include all of the foot pound torque specs, thank you so much
Very good video, everything you need to know, plus your great trick to get the harmonic balancer bolt loose. Warning about the parts was unnerving, seemed to have the Honda markings on the packages. Thanks again!
Ya. That kit was all fake, and the belt broke (shredded) in under 5k miles.
Hands down the most underrated mechanics channel I’ve almost watched all of your videos. It’s all extremely useful information, little tricks for things you do in your videos help me out at work even on the heavy duty diesel side of things. And you never know what side work might fall into your lap good to have info
You have probably heard of this. Found this out when I was attempting my first timing belt change on an 89 Acura Legend, could not get the pulley nut off. Car was a standard and no matter what I tried, the motor turned over. Local mechanic told me a great trick. Get a Johnson bar with the right sized nut (22 mm as I recall) and jam it up in the suspension, ground or what ever. Disconnect the ignition, plugs whatever to make sure the engine won't start, then just turn the engine over. Worked like magic, came right off !!!!
People always tell me that stuff, but I don't want to take the chance of breaking a starter, or anything. Be fun if someone tried that on a d16. It runs counter clockwise 🤪.
Just did my timing belt. Best instructions on the web. Thank you!
Welcome!
Just did my own. Be careful with the rear camshaft moving on you. I marked the original timing belt at each mark and with the crank I made my own. Then I scribed it to the new one and matched right up. I also didn't drain the radiator and needed just under a gallon to fill it back up. Took me about 7 hrs or so
You Rock 🤘🏻! The most complete auto repair video I’ve ever watched. You were calling out all sizes, pounds, clips and more while you were doing your thing! Awesome
Just don't use those cheesy cheap Ebay Honda timing kits, like the one I got.
@@RustBeltAuto I put one of those amazon kits on my odyssey, accord, and RL. Should I redo the job on all of em with a kit from a known good source? No weird issues or noises from the timing yet on any of them.
Thanks for posting this video. By far the best, most thorough description I could find in one place. Followed step by step not a thing missed, torque specs along the way even. I ended up using 2x 2ft breaker bars for the crank bolt.
Great video
Thanks!
Video was helpful. However for actually putting on the timing belt, I found the Prodemand method better. It says to leave the idler pulley bolt loose as youre putting the belt around, then tighten it up after the belt is on. I found this worked better, plus then theres a little less risk compared to wrenching on the cam and potentially putting your camshaft out of proper position. More than one way to skin a cat though and im sure your way can work fine too. Good video overall and nice to have the torque specs included
You are awesome!! I was having trouble getting the timing marks to line up and with the 17mm wrench on the cam really works 👍 thank you
what a spectacular voice, thank you sir
Instantly thought of Fargo 😆
That is a tremendous amount of work. I just had the the timing belt and water pump as well as spark plugs replaced on my 2006 Honda Pilot and Honda Ridgeline it costed me 2,060 for both vehicles. And it money very will spent. It a lot of work for the mechanics.
I know this is an older video but on removing the harmonic balancer bolt, I wedge the one piece like you do with an 18" or so 3/4 inch breaker bar. Next I get about a 2 foot 1/2 inch extension bar with the 19mm socket and place onto the bolt. Next I get a jack stand and raised it to about the height of the extension bar so the extension bar is relatively flat/horizontal when place onto the jack stand. I place the extension bar at the furthest point away from the bolt but still allowing access to the end on the jack stand. Then I take a 4 foot 1" breaker bark and use a 5 foot pipe that fits over the end about a foot or so and attach it to the extension bar so I will be pushing down in the same side as the other breaker bar versus using a jack to raise. This gives me a ton of leverage and I have never had a problem but yes those bolts are on their super tight. This does require a large long breaker bar and pipe but it is well worth it.
Thank you for the video! Also, it’s AWESOME that you fast forward the parts of the video that, well, should be fast forwarded 😊. Got my Ridgeline ready for another 100k.
Welcome!
It was at that moment I knew somebody else had fucked up, you said if it's not nice and floppy somebody fucked up! I think I found out why my tensioner won't go on! Thanks man you're fucking entertaining to watch too and very precise which is excellent.
Bro you're badass, thanks to your video, me and my brother are gonna tackle this job tomorrow. Keep up the good work 👏
I used the starter and a good size breaker bar resting on the floor to loosen my 06 pilot years ago, broke lose easy, now have 190k all still good
I have heard of people doing that before on different vehicles. Always afraid of breaking a starter, or flywheel, or something, so I have never done it.
Who else likes to listen to this guy 😄😄😄speak?
Tackling a timing belt on a 01 MDX. Tried everything to remove the crank bolt to no luck. Pulled out the torque multiplier and off she comes no problem 😊
Now I know who to contact when I need my Honda Ridgeline worked on😊. Great job👍👍
Good luck with that. Trying to be a hard person to get a hold of.
Thank you for your informative video 👍 Our favorite mechanic retired who worked on all our vehicles 😔I do not trust the new kid who took over his shop. He's extremely expensive and I was not satisfied the work he did on my vehicle. I had to take it back for the same fuel pump issue. Turns out it was a bad TIPM on my 2011 Ram Truck. So, I am going to do this on my own on the wifey's 2006 Ody. I have had some basic experience working on my 1997 Accord timing belt in the past. Wish me Luck!
Fantastic video, more detail than any other video I have seen on UA-cam. THANK YOU!
Welcome
You are detail minded. Thank you for sharing the process. Now I know this is not my task.
Welcome!
Great video. I'll do a lot of things but that's not one of them!!
You’re super hilarious😂
And super bright 🧠
Great video! I am doing mine now and although there in no mention anywhere of the timing belt being changed before (has 193k miles now), the crank bolt came out relatively easy and now I am wondering about the crank pulley washer and its orientation. It looks to be flattened out a bit but I think I can still make out the concave side but what side does the concave side go on? The TDC dimple on the washer also has a concave and convex side. Thanks!
Tapers on washers usually go towards the bolt.
This guy is a master mechanic
Great job! Nice to see someone using a torque wrench!
I have a question i bought an 07 ridgeline used and it shows the timing belt was replaced 30,000 miles ago but it has been 6 years as well. I know thats not a lot of miles on a belt but what about the years ? Should i go by mileage or years more ?
Some go 10/100 on those, but I'm not going to make predictions of my own about timing belts.
@@RustBeltAuto thank you !
I got an extra 30k on a Honda belt (prelude), before it started crumbling (meaning 130k total). My Ridgeline is currently overdue by 40k (belt likely aftermarket, done at Tire Kingdom, more than 10yrs ago). I’d say you’re fine for quite awhile.. as long as it’s not a chinsy belt.
My alternator burned up last night..50 mls from home. I took it as a warning ... am changing overdue timing belt tomorrow, 07 Ridgeline 280k
NAPA has good deal right now,on timing kit AISIN
@cocksureness thank you for your reply. It's definitely a good brand of belt I did some research into the brand. I know only 30k on a belt was not a lot but then others have said that 6 years is I appreciate your input I will hold off for a bit. And my 07 has 150k on the engine and tranny good to always see others with the same vehicle with such high mileage.
Got mine @ 140k .. no issues till after 200-220k. Replaced radiator (leak) & both front axles (inner & outer boot cracked). Only got a year on aftermarket axles - (ugh). Blower inside requires tapping on it sometimes, power steering fluid leak - at the rack (I just refill).. and the alternator (2 nights ago).. gave battery light warning 15 min prior to total failure. I expect to get to 300k easily. Awesome truck. Best advice.. shop manual/do the work yourself (even Dealerships can’t be trusted to do it right).. and use OEM parts as much as possible.
PS-- I have never thought to bend the grenade pin to get a little more much-needed slack in the belt. Thanks.
What's a fair charge for parts and labor for this?
My 06 Ridgeline broke on the road , im assuming the hydraulic tensioner went bad and the belt slipped but didnt break cuz i can see the lifters move through the oil filling hole when i try to start the engine ,im thinking ill do less initial work and just take the covers off line up everything correctly and replace only the hydraulic tensioner without removing the engine mount and keeping the old belt just to get it running and see if the valves got bent or not before i do extra work you think it could be do that way just to get it running for a bit to hear the engine
There is going to be something else wrong. Those tensioners get loose, without the belt slipping. People replace just the tensioner, when they start rattling all the time.
Perfect Video sir! Thank you, you saved me $500!
😁
I have 200,000 miles on my 06 I have replaced the belt at 100,000 not sure what would happen if it broke now? I suppose I should have it done again.
You can buy a weighted 19 mm socket that will take that bolt off like taking a wheel nut off.
Someone already mentioned that. I looked at Amazon reviews on that thing, and some people still cannot get that bugger off with it. Still on the fence on if I should get one. The jack is always fun.
@@RustBeltAuto if you have a good impact gun, get one. They work. I have a CTA brand but they probably are all the same. Wish I would have had one 20 years ago. I've never understood why they put the crank pulley on so tight. I understand the theory, but Jeez! But I do like your Rube Goldberg way also!
@@nealmont I have 2 ingersoll 2135's. Now they have a 2235. That might do it.
Be careful, he has a high impact wrench which most of us don't, so once you take the pulley off the crankshaft and tighten the 19mm bolt, you can't take it off without turning the crankshaft. I had to measure and used a bit to stop it from turning by wedging it against the frame. Also, he is using the green radiator fluid, and the ridgeline uses the blue.
The color of coolant doesn't mean anything. Different manufacturers use different colors. It is global coolant. Good for everything. Borate, nitrate, slicate free.
A fine example of a Honda crank bolt battle!
I just completed a timing kit on my ridgeline and realized I never checked the torque or tightness on the nut/bolt on the new timing tensioner pulley….do they come pre torqued?
Yes. I checked them a couple times. They were always torqued.
Thanks for the reply! I was sweating 😅
Lyle mlheavy mass 19mm socket tooly brothers 2012 Ridgeline crank bolt off like byagic when we broke a heavy duty half inch breaker and My brother 's huge 300 lb cranking on it and the Lyle took it off in seconds so I highly recommend everyone pay the 25 bucks and buy one before you start this job and at the worst it just won't work and you can go back to cranking on it like I did on my last job and using a propane torch. I was using a kobalt 750 foot pound impact wrench with it that I got from Lowe's couple years ago for 150 bucks I think and because my home air compressor was down I was actually using the tank and compressor for my car's air suspension. So it didn't have a powerful compressor behind it and it still worked
Thank you ! Excellent step by step video.
Whats an average price I can expect to pay to have this done with parts?
I don't know.
Why do the people changed the water pump ? Can I replaced only the timing belt ??
@@John2022-i2q because it is a maintenance item, and wears out. Technically, you don't need to change it.
Homie is the truth. Excellent video
But you def are a bad boy I need to know I have 07 and someone told me it has a chain not belt how do I find out for sure before taking it apart???
It will have plastic timing covers.
I have everything in place, but when I pull the pin on the tensioner, the pushrod doesn't pop out. I can stick the pin right back in. Is that normal/ correct?
Not normal.
Quality narration 👏
What kit did you buy and from where? I was considering contitech or dayco or gates but not sure!
Aisin. Rock auto or something. This kit in the video was bought by the victim, and the belt was a fake knockoff. It was not genuine Honda, and didn't last long at all. Ebay, and Amazon sells fake Honda kits. Those kits you describe do not have a Japanese import water pump. That's the only pump I'm comfortable with.
@@RustBeltAuto Yamada is the OEM manufacturer since they switched from Aisin in 2006, though either manufacturer is fine to use for parts. Fake kits exist for both manufacturers though, so order your parts through the dealer or from a reputable source.
I put my contitech timing belt kit on and so far so good. About couple thousand miles in.
I'm just replacing the water pump. The cheap kit I bought has a timing belt, but I'm wondering if just using the one that's on it would be a better option. I don't want it to break.
I bought a fake kit on Ebay and the hydraulic tensioner leaked at 4000 miles. There are now 6 bent valves.
I'm sorry to hear about that. I just changed all of the timing components on my Acura TL. I used the Aisin timing belt kit with the water pump. Thing's like that: I buy from a reputable parts store. That's definitely an area where cheap can get very expensive.
They sell a 19 mm heavy socket the weight of the socket create more impact and remove the bolt very easy
Great illustration. Will use this as a guide for a side job. Thanks mate!
Welcome!
Oil pump seals are shot and the oil filter housing seal is shot too. I understand ya gotta remove the oil pan and exhaust. But other then that thanks for sharing. Cheers! Gotta do a Honda Pilot 2010. Ok bye lol
People are too lazy or too incompetent to realize and fix
Excellent video. Thank you. I love all the Snap-On tools. That's my go to tool as well.
I wanna know what brand those gloves are I ain't seen them tear yet I use black nitros n their thick etc I would have all ready went through few pair lol
I use the 7mil from. Harbor freight.
can you remove lower without removing the top? have a crankshaft pos. sensor failing code trying to replace.
I think not.
@@RustBeltAuto that is... displeasing
Just wanted to say Thanks for the video. I will not be changing any of this myself but the way you teach makes me think I can. However, I'm smart enough to know better, lol! Thanks Again!! Oh I do have a question, when is the best time to change the timing belt and water pump? Is is mileage related or years related? Thanks again!!
I think the manual say 6/60 for the belt. Most people go 10 years, or 100k miles. Some replace the pump, and pullies the second belt change, and tensioner every time.
@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the response. I was asking because I have located a 2014 with less than 20,000 miles clean Carfax and was wondering do I need to change everything as a precaution?
@@cdf8821 just the belt, and tensioner, if you choose to do anything. They leak hydraulic fluid when old, and rattle. The stuff probably looks almost new.
The engineers who design wear parts this difficult to replace should be shot. I've replaced timing belts and water pumps on other cars in less than an hour. This thing is a nightmare. No wonder it costs so much to have a Ridgeline timing belt replaced. Worth every penny it looks like.
Toyota sienna, Audi v-6, pacifica, to name a few, all stubborn. I've done too many, and actually like the way this one is engineered.
@@RustBeltAuto That's simply a crime. But I guess it makes you money, so it's not all bad. I just did a Mitsubishi Montero Sport, and it was all out in the open with nothing much to remove at all. Just the fan shroud and fan. Easy breezy.
How did you know which way to turn it a 1/2 tooth? The way the motor rotates so you just went backwards because the belt was stretched?
Drive side tight, driven side loose. Mark on crankshaft zero. One tooth off of movement on crankshaft is half tooth on cams. There is a variance of a half tooth either way on crankshaft from zero that you should see the camshaft marks line up. One tooth off on any gear is very noticeable.
Awesome video! I couldn't help notice you poured in cheap green coolant from Menards to mix with genuine Honda blue coolant.
Your thoughts?
The OEM coolant is the best product, this is clearly seen when you removed the original water pump and the block side looked like brand new aluminum.
I put global coolant in there. It was not your standard old green coolant. It's nitrate, borate, phosphate, silicate free, and good for all makes, and models. Don't let the color fool you. Menards, and wal-mart has the best deal.
@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the info!
Thank you for sharing - I will never do this but atleast its doable
What is the engine clicking noise?
Probably vale lash. These are not hydraulic.
What if you loosened the bolt on the tensioner pulley, what is the torque spec to tighten it back?
Are you implying that I left something out?
@@RustBeltAuto No just at 18:52 that 13mm bolt, do you know the torque spec on it because I loosened it by accident and want to torque it to spec lol
@@michaelribaric8678 19?
Great video. I build and manage XX million dollar projects for Amazon and even with a spreadsheet with torque values, tools and instructions... I rather leave it to a professional like you. I have an 06’ Ridgeline with 217 thousand miles (I’m putting 11,000 a year on it) and I wanna get it to at least 300 thousand so I know I’ll be needing this job sooner than later. I did notice that the belt doesn’t look much different from the old one, but the tensioner was clearly weaker.
QUESTION?: Outside of mileage recommendations what are some engine symptoms I should look for to let me know if it’s time to replace the tensioner? (Currently I have no check engine lights from AutoZone or O’Reillys.)
This is an older video so I have no expectations for an answer, but God willing... I’d really be fortunate if you could! Thank you for such a detailed look into your work. People do complex work every day but very few know how to explain it in lamest terms!
Tensioners start to leak fluid, then they rattle like crazy, unless you put a load on the engine, to pull tension on the driven side of the belt.
@@RustBeltAuto i can confirm my 06 Ridgeline with 250k started to rattle only when idling or driving slow once i go above 30mph it goes away
Has anyone had trouble with the timing belt tensioner pulley? Specifically at 14:25 where he says if its not nice and floppy, you did something wrong? Torqued that bolt to 19 ft/lb and that pulley arm won't rotate. Looked at the old sleeve from the old belt and there's a spot where it's worn through layers of metal, so it's been rubbing.
Of course the new kit didn't come with a new sleeve or bolt. This old one seems to be causing the tensioner pulley to get hung up. Idk if previous installer misaligned it and sent it anyway or what??
Is there a missing washer?
where do you find the crank pulley tool to re install?
You can rent them at parts stores, or buy one just about anywhere.
How long it take?
I don't know
Did the timing belt on my wife’s 2013 odyssey last year 20k miles ago with all Orem parts. New belt, water pump, tensioners ect. Her timing belt broke today! I have no idea what caused it. I’ve got it mostly pulled apart but I cant get the crank bolt off this time. Guess I’ll throw a new belt on and run a compression test. Really puzzled here. I would think if I did anything wrong I would have known way before 20k miles of driving. For some reason the serpentine belt was pretty damaged too. I’m sure it’s related but not sure how.
Lots of counterfeit parts out there.
@@ua7pyro591 yeah unfortunately it's so hard to tell unless you get directly from a dealer which is not always possible on some older ones like my 99 crv.
@@ua7pyro591I agree, Aisin timing belt kits are OEM quality. They're actually a manufacturer for Toyota.
I couldn't get the belt on so I rotated the exhaust cam causing it to snap forward about 40 teeth. Now it won't stay at TDC without holding a wrench to it. How can i get it to stay put again?
Ut ooh! You sure your not hitting valves? If there is no cylinder pressure, it should stay. I hope you didnt bend valves.
@@RustBeltAuto I don't think so.
Thanks, Great video. Nice tips.
YOU ARE A MASTER MECHANIC
Thanks for the video. I will not be attempting this job
Best video ever my man!
Your video was a huge help! Thank you!
🤗
Masterful work.
You need a better impact my Milwaukee high torque would get that harmonic balancer bolt off
why did you use green?
It's global coolant. All global coolant is borate, and silicate free. This is not conventional green ethylene glycol coolant. I should have mentioned that.
Excellent video!!! Thank you!
hi- i wonder if you know how many revolutions of the crankshaft for 1 full timing sequence- I inadvertently turned my crankshaft with the timing belt off- i had both cam sprockets timing set but turned the crankshaft sprocket two revolutions
1 rev of the crank to 2 rev of the camshafts.
@@RustBeltAuto i think its backwards the way you say it
@@keithhere5292 when the belt is hooked up, that's what it is. Other than that, zero is zero.
Where you located? Men I need a mechanic like you
Outer space.
YOOOOOO!!!!
I like your warning "do not do anything stupid!" Good life statement I'd say....
I was really hoping the timing belt was made by your favorite company, MITSUBASHEE!!!
When you pulled the pin on the tensioner did you get Nam flash backs? (that was my only question for this video)
If I recall, the 3.5 has a pretty wicked VTEC change over, they really wail!
It's a JOB for sure!
OKAY BYE!!!
So only go to Honda dealer to get parts?
You choose. I try to stick with Asain, or Japanese import water pump, or kit. I have now run into Toyota/Asain kits, that are not Japanese. Mitsubishi, Gates, Dayco, all sell quality belts. Cheap Chinese pulleys are fine. This kit had a fake knockoff belt in it. The dealer will give you the best quality control.
@@RustBeltAuto Aisin kit from Amazon Aisin Store should be good to use right? Already did this job three times with counterfeit kits(I think anyway), didn't know until I started watching through some of your videos and ran into this. Should I maybe just buy some new belts and slap those on if you're saying the kit failed due to knockoff belt?
@@codyspear1263 China is making a lot of fake everything. You need to make sure you are buying from a genuine parts supplier. Some of these suppliers do sell on amazon, and ebay. Some of it is fake.
NAPA sells an AISIN kit, Nice Denso Alternator too. ‘07 Ridgeline
i will gladly pay my mechanic for this job.
Crankbolt sockets work every time
You have the exact same voice as jeffrey dahmer in the doc lol
I put breaker bar and socket on balancer ,hit the starter comes right off. / I could not raise mine up to get leverage . Do what you gotta do 😉
I hear a lot of that. Never tried it.
Great video! Thank you
You are so very welcome. Thank you for watching!
Wow best video so far.. too bad its nor for my vehicle.. is this the same for a 2006 honda pilot? Appreciate anybody that can point me in the right direction
It's about the same. Same kit.
@@RustBeltAuto awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge man
Hey man the border opens up I drive down there and if you have this job again I’ll do it on the house. I guarantee you haven’t seen it done as fast. Than you buy me a good mid western meal.
lol... I was working somewhere, and some rock star, and I had the same job come in on 2 of these, and he wanted to race. He couldn't keep up. I didn't behave like we were racing. This was the anal retentive version. Did the same thing with a rock star owner I worked for on GM 3.4 intakes. He said go, and I didn't know we were racing. He bent a valve, tried to claim he didn't put the wrong pushrod in there, and made the victim pay for it. Smooth criminal. I don't like to race. People tend to break things trying to go faster than they should. Now that I don't work for assholes, which all of them were, I have slowed down a lot too. Thanks for watching!
Real profecional cool saludos deome rosarito mexico
Well put together !
So what's that cost? $1000-$1200?
LoL. You can get a genuine Honda timing belt kit with everything you see here on Ebay for 175$.
@@RustBeltAuto I think he means what is the cost of the entire job to have a technician perform the work.
I should get ‘11 Ridgeline timing belt replaced.. I would travel to have you do it!
Is this a non interference engine ??
No
@@RustBeltAuto what a stupid design good to know to stay away from one of this
@@randylahey5005 I like it.
What do you like about it ??
@@randylahey5005 I think timing belt cars, and non hydraulic valve trains are the most reliable idea all around. They just require maintenance. Non interference engines don't seem to have as good volumetric efficiency, so you kind of take the good with the bad. I like honda engineering too. It's top notch. IMHO this is one of the best v-6's ever made.
I own 2007, Why do these Ridgelines RUST so bad? 🙁
Because... Salt.
@@RustBeltAuto Under the hood tho? Like every nut & bolt is rusty, really makes the engine compartment look 👎
@@craigjohnson7884 Hence the name "Rust belt auto".
@@RustBeltAuto 😆
has anyone did this but with non OEM kit ,the chinese kits are significantly cheaper but idk if i can trust it
Please no.
Honda oem parts
56992-RV0-A05
14520-RCA-A01
19200-RDV-J01
14510-RCA-A01
14550-RCA-A01
31180-RCA-A02
14400-RCA-A01
wow very nice video.
that belt didnt look to bad for being an original.
Great Video !
Thanks!
Great video.
Insane that you will have to do this every 100k ..and it really isnt a diy job. I can image people selling off the truck before replacing the belt and waterpump