[epoxy] It was amazing when I made a mold with a 3D printer. resin
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- Опубліковано 31 бер 2022
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I am a Japanese who likes manufacturing.
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今までやってたエポキシが、新しく入ってきた3Dプリンターによって進化するのすこ
細胞内共生進化じゃん
There is filament for 3D printers that dissolves in water, would save you a lot of time trying to get it out of the mold.
Also a resin printer might give you cleaner results.
It is called pva
サポート用の水で溶けるフィラメントで作ったらいけんじゃね？
FLASHFORGE フィラメント 水溶性サポート剤
で調べるといいよ！
名案だと思う
Make a silicone mold from the 3D printed piece, after the silicone mold dries, pull out the 3D printed away from the silicone mold. Next, pour the resin in the silicone mold.
どういう意味のヤバいかわからなかったけど綺麗だな…
Using draft angles can help to pop out parts from a mold, so using something like a 3 degree angle makes it so the bottom isn’t as easily held in by the top. Also, using a water soluble filament such as PVA can be dissolved in warm water dropping the part free
透明なやる木作れちゃうのか…木じゃないけど()
やる樹脂…？
型として設計するなら抜き勾配は必須かと思われます。
また、積層プリンタ特有の横目が離型抵抗になるので向きを変えられるなら変えたほうが良いですよ
やってみようと思っていたのでメチャ参考になりました
Eftyさんのとこでやってた水に溶けるフィラメント使ったら案外上手く行きそうでは？
エポキシで溶けたりせんのかな、溶けたら溶けたで見たいけど
やるつもり！
There are filaments that will dissolve in water, but they're quite expensive.
There are flexible filaments out there that would probably release way easier. Thank you for your findings though I was wondering how it would work in a PLA mold!
Thank you for doing this experiment and publishing it, both the successful result (still destroyed mold, which was reasonably expected) and the failures: it saves me from making the same failure mistakes using silicone oil and hoping that works. I have something I intend on making molds for reproducing 3D printed parts that’d take too long to be sane for their size and numbers of parts.
I also see from other comments I need to look into creating silicone molds so they can be readily reused.
これからも楽しみだ😆
you are very talented and inspiring!
Could you melt it out? PLA starts to deform at a fairly low temp. There's also dissolvable filament but I'd worry about the mold release or epoxy causing it to dissolve.
for printing overhangs, i’d recommend either
if possible, print it in a different orientation. not always possible but often the easiest and best when it can be done
otherwise, you can often use small fillets and chamfers to help or infill, tho in the case of molds that you break apart infill is probably not desirable.
There are also water soluble filaments, i think PVA is one?
Also, for maybe polishing, i know ABS plastic dissolves a bit in acetone, but in small applications it can be used to melt together or polish the surface. maybe that would be ideal for polishing? ABS is however infamously weak along the layers
there is this printing compound that can be dissolved in water. but i do not know if it can be used on your printer...
2:41
コンビーフ開けてるみたい()
That's _Mister_ Silicone Barrier to you! Really cool results, I had never thought to do intricate patterns like that.
しばらく見てなかったら、くらひとさんついに3Dプリンターにまで手出しているだと…！？
エポキシは水溶性3Dプリンターフィラメントを溶解しますか？そうでない場合は、試してみる価値があるかもしれません。
（グーグル翻訳）
それはとてもちんぽですね！
(グーグル翻訳)
I'm glad to see this technique, please try 3D print part to make a silicone mould (also two part mix) then you can cast resin into your silicone mould many times. Also use resin to strengthen 3D prints.
In agreement with other comments, I've seen some videos where people are using TPU and/or making the negative and the mold in silicone.
In between the pieces you were seeing stringing, and it happens typically when the slicer and temperature settings are not quite right. Check on your retraction settings and tune your slicer settings as needed. Finally, for the seam, you can look for the setting in your slicer to randomize the layer start point. Most of the time the seam is placed in a corner spot, but in a rounder item seams are very noticeable. Alternately print this as vase or spiralize which creates a continuous layout, no seams at all. Normally, it is much more efficient to have a single seam, but in a piece where the exterior must really be smooth or the seam will be super noticeable, randomizing is a nice way to handle this.
はかり汚くて草
やっぱちゃんとしたあれってちゃんとしてるんやなー
（離型剤の話ですが）
型外しはきすみ先生の出番ですな
ロウを流し込んでも面白そうです🥺
あー、ロウも面白そう
造形のほうは薄くして色つきのレジンを流し込んで
ステンドグラスみたいにするとか
コースターみたいなものできそうですが…
You could adjust the z-seam property (set to random) to avoid the vertical line
糸引きは、スライサーで引き戻しを強めに設定すると改善されるかも
Funcionara con un filamento flexible para crear moldes reutilizables?
Use draft angles. Use a material that can be melted by water. Olive oil/avocado oil spray also works as a mold release.
Can you put the mold in warm water once the resin is cured? The pla might become a little soft and can be pulled out…
フィラメント式のはやっぱ表面のザラザラが引っかかりますね。
柔らかいフィラメントがあったりするのでそれを試せたらと…
あとは光造形なら表面のザラつき抑えられるかなと。
（大きく作れないのが難点）
砂糖で型を作ったら、温めて中身だけ取り出せそう
Have you tried to use flexible material, or water soluble PVA?
離型剤もスプレー式のやつがあります。
3Dプリンタの型でも使えるかは分からないけど、特に複雑な型の時は手でチマチマ塗るより楽ですよ。
スプレー式の離型剤あるのか！めっちゃ役に立ちそう情報あざます
フィラメントを取り除かないで見栄え良くする場合は、アセトンで溶かせるので専用の霧吹きで吹いてあげたり、密閉容器にアセトンと一緒に放置しておけば気化したアセトンで容器内が充満して表面が溶けてツルスベお肌になりますよ…
The acetone will probably melt the resin as well
@@jacobmartincontreras I overlooked it. Thank you for your advice.
さんコメ、今回の試みも面白かったです。3Dプリンター技術もすごくいいなと思います
最後の型は水に溶けるフィルムにしたら良さそうだと思います
i'd check the solubility of that filament in acetone, toluene, MEK or other polar solvents. most of them works with acetone. i have no success with PETG. that stuff holds against everything. :D
or maybe, if the resin can withstand it, try to melt the plastic off in an oven ;)
pva resin can dissolve in water, so it would make any complex shape possible. Not a bad method to quickly prototype parts that need to be stronger than what can printed directly.
Très intéressant, il est peut-être possible d'avoir un meilleur résultat avec un fil souple 🤔
これ、サポート剤で作ったモデルからシリコーンで型取って、シリコン型作れれば、複雑な砂糖菓子とか作れそう。あと3Dプリントは含浸しちゃうから、粘性の低いレジンは含浸しないように表面を溶かしたりコーティングが必要そうですよね。
水で溶けるフィラメントとかあったら綺麗に取り出せそう
ﾊﾟｶｯって外れるのは気持ちぃ
A simple rule for casting is, soft casting use hard mould, hard casting use soft mould 😊
I was expecting the printed part to be the master in a flexible urethane mold.
型取りに手間取り…ゲホゲホ
Will it dissolve out in acetone?
print with the solulabe plastic that is used as a support material, then the inner walls can be dissolved in water leaving the resin behine
Gracias por traducir los vídeos al español 😁😁
Sigue así 😁
3d printed moulds mostly PLA will deform with the heat of resin mixture so make sure to cool it before pouring
エポキシ混ぜるのに割りばしの先端を切って輪ゴムで十字に固定、電導ドライバー等に取り付けて混ぜる方法楽ですよ(∩´∀｀)∩
I feel like a small lathe would serve you very well.
The resin was going to settle into any printed striation & recess, so I don't think that was a good idea with the cups.
0:18 蜘蛛の糸みたいに細い糸引きはライターで炙れば簡単に取れるのでこんなもんだと妥協しちゃうのも手です
The filaments usually resist temperatures between 70 to 120 °C, the resin usually up to 150. Just bake it!
Have you tried printing a mold with ninja flex filament instead?
I have a resin printer and use flexible resin would be the best for this so you don’t have layer lines!
-2:00 ここ、近未来の高速道路を上から見てるみたいで好き。分かる？
If i remeber well there are 3D printer filamets that soften in water.
ABS can be disolved in solvents.
アイコン変わってる！！
flexible filament for the win
PLA mold after resin hardened put to acetone. ~15-20 minutes, PLA became very soft and easy removable.
Para tirar o molde com facilidade bastava ter passado algum óleo nele antes de colocar a resina .
you should try using TPU filament
You can still remove the inner plastic by burn it away or melt it with high temp.
Printing in flexible TPU might be much easier to remove. They might even be reusable.
Tpu needs to be very soft for this. Maybe ninja flex can do
サポート無しで積層中空は無理ですね、床がないところに溶けたものを伸ばしても垂れちゃうので、、、
地面に水平な面が大きくて、下に何もなければ支える物が無いから垂れますが、天井の下面を完全な水平にしなければ綺麗に造形できますよ。
あと、動画で言ってる失敗というのは垂れてる事ではなく、折り返しの所でフィラメントが引いちゃってグチャグチャになってる事だと思います。
How about trying to use PVA filament which is melting in water.
probably you can try a silicone filament so that it will be softer?
好認真
if the epoxy is high temperature, you can probably melt the mold off of it in the oven.
Try to print with TPU. It it flexible and might come of more easy.
凹凸すごいから剥離剤あってもとるの大変そう
Wonderful junk
Maybe don't 3d print the mold but the negative could be 3d printed and then a you could make mold from silicone so it will come right out and be reusable
テーパーの設計が難しそう
そこに未だに手間取ってるよ、というかあんま分かってない
こういう用途では、「水溶性フィラメント」を使う。
「水溶性フィラメント」は、そもそもはサポート用に作られたフィラメントだが、
「お湯に溶ける」という性質を利用すれば、型抜きにも使える。
「もったいない」と思うなら、「軟質フィラメント」を使う方法もある。
外側に開くだけで外れるような簡単な形状なら、「軟質フィラメント」で十分だろう。
しかし、逃げも抜き勾配もないような複雑な形状の場合は「水溶性フィラメント」を使うしかない。
水溶性のフィラメントあるからそれで行けるか...?
いやそれレジンで溶けるか...?
ABS dissolves in Acetone even at room temperature. PLA degrades in water at 90 degC in several days/ weeks.
1°くらい抜け勾配少しつけたらいいのでは？
サムネ見てどうやって型から外すんだろって再生したら外せてなかったw
出来上がりの｢でけました｣にえふてぃーさんを感じた人も多いはず
空枠だとレジンが漏れるのはままよくある。イラッとするまでがマスト。
You should add one more step. First you print negative, then make silicone form, then epoxy in this silicone form. This will cause much easier take out.
for this spezial Applikation I use soleable filament like PVA ;) works nice
糸引きの糸はライターで一瞬炙ると溶けて消える（炙りすぎ注意！）
フィラメント熱で溶かせるかも？？
ただの桶的なイレモノにレジン注いで、サイズが合ったフタに深めの３Ｄアート
但し溝の奥までレジン入れない＆下面残すように深さを調整した形状、つまり下も上も隙間残し
離型剤があればこれで研磨の元ネタが出来そうな気がするです
この用途では、PVA樹脂が最適だと思います。(deepL translation)
アセトンにつけといたら溶けるんじゃないすか？
エポキシがどうなるかは分かりませんが
This video makes me wanna make gadgets with transparent epoxy!
I'm a little bit worried because you may cut from shattered printings or tools. so I strongly recommend you to wear protective gloves.
by the way, just spinning the mold makes parabolic surface, by simple physics. if you can somehow polish rear surface, various gadgets with optics could be possible...
이것을 가져다준 kurahito craft에게 감사합니다.
油で揚げればプラだけ溶け出るよ
光造形３Dプリンタなら一発では？
Cool stuff here..
شكرآ لك على جهودك التي أبزلتها انهو فيديو رأع
Maybe some of the water soluble filiment.
３Dプリンタで直接エポキシ固めたら解決