I recently bought one of these used for a very good price. The saw works, but all of the adjustments didn't, so I tore it down, lubricated everything, and cleaned up the rust. Now, I can't get the height adjustment working unless I mount the crank directly on the back shaft (had to fabricate a plate to use in place of the bracket. Any ideas what may be going on?
I have that exact same RAS, only when I bought in new in 1972 it had Black & Decker labels. The top cover was dark grey plastic and the metal was also dark. The motor is a cream while. That belt is very delicate.
There is a handle that is used to unlock the "neck" and rotate the motor to the rip position. The star shaped thingy is a spring that maintains tension on the handle. To rotate the motor the handle fully open pushes on the cup shaped thingy that pulls the locking pin that holds the motor in position.
My on/off switch has also packed up and I have bypassed it, but where do I connect the red 'Lectrostop' wire? I have the model 7770 and I would like to use the lectrostop again, it was quite effective in stopping the blade quickly.
Hi I have recently acquired a 1450 RAS. So far I've only taken the top cover off and first thing I saw was the belt is missing. Do you know if they are still available? I probably won't have time to do much on it as I'm building my own house. I want it so I can downsize later. I presently I am using an old 1950'd 3 phase De Walt. A great machine but built like a tank.
I have a problem wat the saw it self. I was using it now and then for my cutting planks and what not and after I switched of the saw adjusted the saw again the saw didn't want to start again. Do you have any idea wat can be the cause of it?
I am in the process of restoring the same model saw, it is all there, and in almost working order, good motor, and bearings, just needs rust removed, cleaning, and readjusting, your video will be helpfull.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on your beautiful machine. I have one myself. Unfortunately for me I still have not been able to lower mine but in time it will. :)
i have the same model but the swivel turret head wont turn there is slighight movement between the surfaces but will not turn would like to dismantle but dont know how there is a slot in the underneath clamping bolt but very little turning motion does anyone here have knowledge on how to release it?
I have an identical saw in the same condition. I intend to try to return it to operating condition in the very near future. Like yours, the switch assembly requires attention & there is no key. I wonder if anyone has a spare key hiding in their box of “goodies” somewhere that they would part with??? If you bypassed the original switch, how did you do that? I may have to contact you again for further advice. How might I do that? . . . Bob T.
Yes, I dypassed the switch and just hard wired it. So now if you plug it in it turns on. And then I made a switched outlet to plug it into. I'll make a video showing how I have it all setup. Please subscribe for updates.
You don't need the key- if you have it dismounted, on the back you will see a means to put it in the "unlocked" position, now you can operate it as a normal on/ off switch when remounted, you have simply bypassed the interlock.
You have to knock out the roll pin. Look up inside the column and you will see the roll pint on the right hand side. There is a bolt on each side of the column that cover the roll pin. Tap it out and the jack screw column will lift out the top. Binding of the elevation belt and crank is cause by the clamp bolts on the back of the column. If set too tight, the belt will bind and skip. A properly adjusted column will take a little effort
This saw is lame in some design respects. I suspect penny pinching is the cause. In order to adjust the bearings in the bearing carrier head, you have to tremove the yoke from the bearing carrier. B&D Dewalt dropped the ball on this one. The older DeWalts had easily accessible adjustment set screws The pictures in the owner's manual shows adjusting the set screws through holes in the yoke that aren't there on the actual saw. The yoke piviot plunger has to one of the worst. It is upside down in comparison to the old DeWalts and most other RAS. The binding for the height adjustment crank that causes the crank to "jump" is due to missing roll pins in the saw column. If you look inside of the column down by the base, the lifting jack screw is held in place by a pin on each side. One pin goes into a slot on the side of the shaft and another just presses against the other side of the shaft. These roll pins trap the elevation jack in a vertical position. Somewhere one of the pins fell out and cause it to bind.
I recently bought one of these used for a very good price. The saw works, but all of the adjustments didn't, so I tore it down, lubricated everything, and cleaned up the rust. Now, I can't get the height adjustment working unless I mount the crank directly on the back shaft (had to fabricate a plate to use in place of the bracket. Any ideas what may be going on?
I have that exact same RAS, only when I bought in new in 1972 it had Black & Decker labels. The top cover was dark grey plastic and the metal was also dark. The motor is a cream while. That belt is very delicate.
There is a handle that is used to unlock the "neck" and rotate the motor to the rip position. The star shaped thingy is a spring that maintains tension on the handle. To rotate the motor the handle fully open pushes on the cup shaped thingy that pulls the locking pin that holds the motor in position.
My on/off switch has also packed up and I have bypassed it, but where do I connect the red 'Lectrostop' wire? I have the model 7770 and I would like to use the lectrostop again, it was quite effective in stopping the blade quickly.
I don't know, I don't think mine has that option.
Thanks anyway, maybe someone else will be able to tell me.@@springorchardfarm1214
Hi I have recently acquired a 1450 RAS. So far I've only taken the top cover off and first thing I saw was the belt is missing. Do you know if they are still available? I probably won't have time to do much on it as I'm building my own house. I want it so I can downsize later. I presently I am using an old 1950'd 3 phase De Walt. A great machine but built like a tank.
I'm sure you should be able to find a generic belt to use. I don't know where it'd be though.
@@springorchardfarm1214 Thanks. It'll probably be even harder here in Perth Western Australia, the world's most isolated capital city
Thanks for the video I now know how to fix my saw. My pin is locked up as well. Thanks again
I'm glad it helped!
I have a problem wat the saw it self. I was using it now and then for my cutting planks and what not and after I switched of the saw adjusted the saw again the saw didn't want to start again. Do you have any idea wat can be the cause of it?
No, I don't know why it did that. If I think of something I'll let you know.
Have you downloaded the owners manual? It's free online.
Check the overload button on the side of the motor. Push to reset.
Does it use a 200mfdand 120 vacand can it be tested.can the heat switch also be tested
I am in the process of restoring the same model saw, it is all there, and in almost working order, good motor, and bearings, just needs rust removed, cleaning, and readjusting, your video will be helpfull.
Awesome, I'm glad it helps.
Good luck.
And please like and subscribe.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on your beautiful machine. I have one myself. Unfortunately for me I still have not been able to lower mine but in time it will. :)
Helpful I have the R1350 and stiff going side to side , have to take apart to get it all lubed. Thanks
Cool, good luck. I really like mine, and use it all the time.
My saw is a model is a 7740/3421. The exploded parts diagram shows only one set screw holding the crank hanle on.
Nice job brother watching from zimbabwe
Cool, thanks!
On jobs like this, ALWAYS remove the blade!!! (First off, last on...)
i have the same model but the swivel turret head wont turn there is slighight movement between the surfaces but will not turn would like to dismantle but dont know how there is a slot in the underneath clamping bolt but very little turning motion does anyone here have knowledge on how to release it?
I have an identical saw in the same condition. I intend to try to return it to operating condition in the very near future. Like yours, the switch assembly requires attention & there is no key. I wonder if anyone has a spare key hiding in their box of “goodies” somewhere that they would part with??? If you bypassed the original switch, how did you do that? I may have to contact you again for further advice. How might I do that? . . . Bob T.
Yes, I dypassed the switch and just hard wired it. So now if you plug it in it turns on. And then I made a switched outlet to plug it into.
I'll make a video showing how I have it all setup. Please subscribe for updates.
You don't need the key- if you have it dismounted, on the back you will see a means to put it in the "unlocked" position, now you can operate it as a normal on/ off switch when remounted, you have simply bypassed the interlock.
Cool, good tip
I need to replace the toothed belt. How is this done?
Sorry, I have no idea.
Is it a good quality saw?
Yes, it's good quality, and it works great.
@@springorchardfarm1214 thanks I think I can pick one up today for $100
Compared to the 1950s Dewalts, these are junk.
@@davidyoung8521 I thought they'd have produced good quality until the 90s anyway. Everything went to shit around then
It depends on the blade you use...I bought a Forrester blade 10 years ago, it still works flawless...
Have you found a source for the raise belt?
No, I haven't looked. Sorry
Same model. Crank binds on every rotation. Loosened clamp bolts didn't do the job.
How to remove jack screw in column?
You have to knock out the roll pin. Look up inside the column and you will see the roll pint on the right hand side. There is a bolt on each side of the column that cover the roll pin. Tap it out and the jack screw column will lift out the top. Binding of the elevation belt and crank is cause by the clamp bolts on the back of the column. If set too tight, the belt will bind and skip. A properly adjusted column will take a little effort
DeWalt is the name and maker of the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw. Black and Decker only markets the saw.
This saw is lame in some design respects. I suspect penny pinching is the cause. In order to adjust the bearings in the bearing carrier head, you have to tremove the yoke from the bearing carrier. B&D Dewalt dropped the ball on this one. The older DeWalts had easily accessible adjustment set screws The pictures in the owner's manual shows adjusting the set screws through holes in the yoke that aren't there on the actual saw. The yoke piviot plunger has to one of the worst. It is upside down in comparison to the old DeWalts and most other RAS. The binding for the height adjustment crank that causes the crank to "jump" is due to missing roll pins in the saw column. If you look inside of the column down by the base, the lifting jack screw is held in place by a pin on each side. One pin goes into a slot on the side of the shaft and another just presses against the other side of the shaft. These roll pins trap the elevation jack in a vertical position. Somewhere one of the pins fell out and cause it to bind.
Not black and decker tatd stick
What?