Excellent! This is the 'Rolls Royce' of bluetooth intergration. It's got it all; super clean voltage supply, output line level amplification, auto turn on and off. It's very well thought through. Well done!!!
Nicely done! And thanks for sharing the information and files required, with a perfectly coherent description of the circuit and install. It is increasingly rare that content creators share their designs and related Gerber's without receiving their pound of flesh through Patreon. Its good to see this level of knowledge sharing for the benefit of interested hobbyist.👍
@@electronicsoldandnew Exactly! We're all in this world together with different skillsets. Sharing those skills, whatever they may be, is to the benefit of us all. My opinion anyway. LOL... Thanks again.
Since you made it this so complete, I would have changed two things: * the transistor to switch the relais I would have used a PNP transistor biased already to ground (so open) and the relais would be ON when BT is ON, but when the B+ comes in, the base would be pulled high, so the transistor would close and the relais falls off. * the B+ I would never introduce that into the rest of the board, so I would couple it to that first transistor with an opto-coupler.
Very good. A suggestion (depending on what HV is doing when the magic eye is orf) is to add a pulldown resistor to the base of the transistor (avoids a floating base).
I have the 4.2 version of your Bluetooth board that I’ve just gotten around to building. What is the difference with v6? Will v4.2 work with this just as well?
Yes, I’m using the BT 4.2 and have just received some 5.0 boards, but haven’t tried them yet. Quite frankly, I don’t believe you’ll hear any difference.
Manuel I like your Solder and chat sessions, though I don't know if you have to pay royalties to x-ray Tony. You are Bluetooth solution is quite elegant well done.
Maybe a standard radial e-cap could be placed on the underside of the board to save height, room permitting, if a SMD is not at hand. Just remember to keep the ground pin oriented to ground.
How are you my dear? I don't understand English very well, it's very basic. Sorry for any spelling mistakes, I'm using a translator. Would I be able to use this Bluetooth board in a class D amplifier? Or would I have to make some changes? Can I use another similar Bluetooth module?
The BT module simply produces a line level output, so it can work on any amp that has a line level input. You’ll just have to provide a separate power supply for it.
@electronicsoldandnew thank you very much for clarifying my doubt. Here in my country we use the DC/DC 12v to 5v isolator plus a 16v 1000uf capacitor at the input of the bluetooth board to eliminate noise, but your project seems much better, sophisticated and professional to me! I will assemble it to test it, thanks again!
@@electronicsoldandnewExcellent, I am pleased to hear that. Thank you for the video too, very interesting. I have a similar issue where I want to add bluetooth to some early 70s receivers and I don't want the noisy BT module running when the tuner is in use. Easy on some where the "aux input" pilot light can be used as the BT module power source - but I'm working on a level detection idea for ones that don't have any convenient switching.
Excellent! This is the 'Rolls Royce' of bluetooth intergration. It's got it all; super clean voltage supply, output line level amplification, auto turn on and off. It's very well thought through. Well done!!!
Thanks 👍
Nicely done! And thanks for sharing the information and files required, with a perfectly coherent description of the circuit and install. It is increasingly rare that content creators share their designs and related Gerber's without receiving their pound of flesh through Patreon. Its good to see this level of knowledge sharing for the benefit of interested hobbyist.👍
It’s a hobby for me, so if I can make someone else’s hobby more fun, why not?
@@electronicsoldandnew Exactly! We're all in this world together with different skillsets. Sharing those skills, whatever they may be, is to the benefit of us all. My opinion anyway. LOL... Thanks again.
👍
Great addition! Nice simple solution. I love it!
👍
I wish I could be these already populated. Fantastic little piece of kit
👍
Since you made it this so complete, I would have changed two things:
* the transistor to switch the relais I would have used a PNP transistor biased already to ground (so open) and the relais would be ON when BT is ON, but when the B+ comes in, the base would be pulled high, so the transistor would close and the relais falls off.
* the B+ I would never introduce that into the rest of the board, so I would couple it to that first transistor with an opto-coupler.
👍
Very good. A suggestion (depending on what HV is doing when the magic eye is orf) is to add a pulldown resistor to the base of the transistor (avoids a floating base).
Good point
Nice one Manuel, neat adaptability solution.
Thanks
Great work. Thanks.
👍
Nice mod Manuel !
Thanks
Thank you for sharing. God bless.
Pleasure
I have the 4.2 version of your Bluetooth board that I’ve just gotten around to building. What is the difference with v6? Will v4.2 work with this just as well?
Yes, I’m using the BT 4.2 and have just received some 5.0 boards, but haven’t tried them yet. Quite frankly, I don’t believe you’ll hear any difference.
Fantastic!
👍
Manuel I like your Solder and chat sessions, though I don't know if you have to pay royalties to x-ray Tony.
You are Bluetooth solution is quite elegant well done.
😊 I’m sure Tony won’t mind
Maybe a standard radial e-cap could be placed on the underside of the board to save height, room permitting, if a SMD is not at hand. Just remember to keep the ground pin oriented to ground.
I thought of that. Wouldn’t fit 😊
How are you my dear? I don't understand English very well, it's very basic. Sorry for any spelling mistakes, I'm using a translator. Would I be able to use this Bluetooth board in a class D amplifier? Or would I have to make some changes?
Can I use another similar Bluetooth module?
The BT module simply produces a line level output, so it can work on any amp that has a line level input. You’ll just have to provide a separate power supply for it.
@electronicsoldandnew thank you very much for clarifying my doubt. Here in my country we use the DC/DC 12v to 5v isolator plus a 16v 1000uf capacitor at the input of the bluetooth board to eliminate noise, but your project seems much better, sophisticated and professional to me! I will assemble it to test it, thanks again!
👍
Double sided sticky pads, help with holding the little board in place
👍 must also be an insulator
I picked up some of your boards from PCBWay, the pitch for the transistor pin holes is waaaay too tight, almost un solderable. Paul
I use a thin tip, but I agree that it could be better spaced.
No twisted 6.3v?
No need as it’s away from any other components.
Sorry - off topic of this video but I just read about forest fires in Madeira, I hope all is ok for you.
All is good with us. The fires are further west of where we live.
@@electronicsoldandnewExcellent, I am pleased to hear that. Thank you for the video too, very interesting. I have a similar issue where I want to add bluetooth to some early 70s receivers and I don't want the noisy BT module running when the tuner is in use. Easy on some where the "aux input" pilot light can be used as the BT module power source - but I'm working on a level detection idea for ones that don't have any convenient switching.
👍
👍
😊