This is one of the easiest and best ways to improve the performance of your suspension to be dialed in to your body weight and style of riding. It's difficult to have a "one size fits all" with MTB suspension so tuning your suspension with volume spacers is the best way to personalize your ride performance.
Yes! I am currently editing that video. Should be uploaded and visible in the next couple days. If you subscribe and press the bell for notifications you will be notified when it gets uploaded.
Excellent! Glad I could help you out! Make sure to stick around as I’ll have more info and tips on T8. Got another video I’m editing that shows you how to use volume spacers in the shock as well.
The socket is a 28mm, non chamferd socket. I got mine from ebay for about 15.00. A regular socket will not grip the nut and could round off the edges which could be a bad thing for sure. I also want to add a tip if you don't mind. When I am working on my bike I always provide some frame protection, so that if I drop a tool on the bike it's protected. Typically I use one of my wifes dish towels wrapped around the frame close to wear I am working. That way if I drop my torque wrench, or pliers etc. and it hits the frame, hopefully it won't chip the paint or god forbid dent the bike. Always enjoy your videos....
great ideas on the frame protection. And you're correct on the regular sockets, you want to buy a specialized socket or have the ends grinded down to make it flat. There is not much lip on the fork for the tool to grab so you do need to be careful. Good news though, if you do completely destroy the edges of the fork cap you can replace it..
Does the flat head socket put any markings on the crown nut area? I would think the black paint/coating would get rubbed hard while unscrewing that cap.
@@rmhfpv9225 It's not something that I take off all the time so I don't have any wear marks. Additionally, i put it on snug and not too tight as it is aluminum.
I'm currently in that "daunting" stage where I'm uneasy with any form of tinkering, but definitely curious and eager to learn it all. Would it be right to assume that you just keep increasing the PSI first, and if you still find yourself continuously bottoming out, 'then' you look at installing volume spacers?
So picked up a new bike about 2 months ago 2022 Specialized Fuse Expert 29r with a Fox 34 rhythm Float Fork noticed under the cap where you would adjust pressure there was oil in that little bowl next to the valve is that normal for it to come out of the valve. I did have the bike upside down doing a wipe down. not sure if gravity could cause some shock fluid to escape the valve ?
That is odd. How much oil was in there? Have you opened the cap since you've purchased the bike? I wonder if there was simply oil from "dirt shop hands" or from not cleaning up - again, not sure how much oil was in there. I would do a wipe down and see if you notice more oil leaking - There shouldn't be oil leaking out of the air valve. I've stored my upside down several times and never noticed oil leaking from there.
Yea, would be a good idea to.. at least add one in there, maybe two still depending on the terrain your normal ride. If it’s rough find yourself going through all the travel or bottoming our, then yea, you’ll want to add that 2nd spacer
In an air fork, the amount of pressure it takes to compress the suspension increases as you move through your travel. It takes less pressure to move the first 10% of your travel than it does to move the last 10%. When you set your air pressure properly your fork should be using about 10-15% of its travel when you're sitting on the bike. But when you start riding trails and you find yourself using all of your suspension too quickly - as in, it feels really squishy to the point where it feels like your nose diving when your breaking or taking corners, you probably need volume spacers. The spacers replace the air inside the fork chamber with plastic. So now, there is less air volume in the fork so now it will take more pressure to compress the higher end of your suspension. You want your fork to be "soft" enough to absorb the terrain but you also need support from your suspension or else you end up nose diving into your fork and really mess you up. The volume spacers help give more "support" in the higher end of your travel. - sorry, i'm just trying to put this in different scenarios as I try to explain this more in text.. Think of an empty plastic water bottle. It's full of air and when the cap is on, you can still compress the bottle, maybe completely... but now, fill the water bottle up with 25% water and do the same thing. The initial compression of the water bottle might be the same, but now you cannot compress or squish the water bottle to the same level you could with the water bottle empty with just air. The more water in the bottle the harder it is to compress fully. This is the same with the volume spacers in your fork.
The fox rhythm 34 is a 26mm top nut! A tape measure is all it takes. I run mine with one token at 80Psi with 20% sag. I weigh around 175lb and ride a stumpjumper 150/140. You must be a pretty heavy dude or do some heavy riding to need 100psi?!…
I weigh about 200lbs and run it at 15% sag. Our trails have several drops around 6’ that tend to have a harsher landing. Also, with our jump trail over here, if I run too low of a psi even with proper sag % my front end will dive to much as I press into the Face of the jump.
This is one of the easiest and best ways to improve the performance of your suspension to be dialed in to your body weight and style of riding. It's difficult to have a "one size fits all" with MTB suspension so tuning your suspension with volume spacers is the best way to personalize your ride performance.
Thanks for the video! It would be great to see instructions for the rear shock too.
Yes! I am currently editing that video. Should be uploaded and visible in the next couple days. If you subscribe and press the bell for notifications you will be notified when it gets uploaded.
Here it is!
ua-cam.com/video/ZCVmQewOAqU/v-deo.html
Just the DYI video i was looking for my T8. Thank you for the awesome tutorial.
Excellent! Glad I could help you out! Make sure to stick around as I’ll have more info and tips on T8. Got another video I’m editing that shows you how to use volume spacers in the shock as well.
@@MTBTrailRider yes please ! Awesome ! thank you so much for your amazing content and Keep up the wonderful work. Cheers
@@Shabobo520 This is the video for the rear shock!
ua-cam.com/video/ZCVmQewOAqU/v-deo.html
@@MTBTrailRider Thanks man! Perfect for me and my T8.
The socket is a 28mm, non chamferd socket. I got mine from ebay for about 15.00. A regular socket will not grip the nut and could round off the edges which could be a bad thing for sure. I also want to add a tip if you don't mind. When I am working on my bike I always provide some frame protection, so that if I drop a tool on the bike it's protected. Typically I use one of my wifes dish towels wrapped around the frame close to wear I am working. That way if I drop my torque wrench, or pliers etc. and it hits the frame, hopefully it won't chip the paint or god forbid dent the bike. Always enjoy your videos....
great ideas on the frame protection. And you're correct on the regular sockets, you want to buy a specialized socket or have the ends grinded down to make it flat. There is not much lip on the fork for the tool to grab so you do need to be careful. Good news though, if you do completely destroy the edges of the fork cap you can replace it..
Does the flat head socket put any markings on the crown nut area? I would think the black paint/coating would get rubbed hard while unscrewing that cap.
@@rmhfpv9225 It's not something that I take off all the time so I don't have any wear marks. Additionally, i put it on snug and not too tight as it is aluminum.
Thank you... For the vid.
My pleasure!
Regular socket works just fine after grinding the end flat.
Correct. If you have a grinder or cutting tool, you can certainly grind the bevel of the socket off so it’s flat.
nice!
I'm currently in that "daunting" stage where I'm uneasy with any form of tinkering, but definitely curious and eager to learn it all.
Would it be right to assume that you just keep increasing the PSI first, and if you still find yourself continuously bottoming out, 'then' you look at installing volume spacers?
Excelente
So picked up a new bike about 2 months ago 2022 Specialized Fuse Expert 29r with a Fox 34 rhythm Float Fork noticed under the cap where you would adjust pressure there was oil in that little bowl next to the valve is that normal for it to come out of the valve. I did have the bike upside down doing a wipe down. not sure if gravity could cause some shock fluid to escape the valve ?
That is odd. How much oil was in there? Have you opened the cap since you've purchased the bike? I wonder if there was simply oil from "dirt shop hands" or from not cleaning up - again, not sure how much oil was in there. I would do a wipe down and see if you notice more oil leaking - There shouldn't be oil leaking out of the air valve. I've stored my upside down several times and never noticed oil leaking from there.
What is your height and weight? What size t8 do you have? Thanks! Great video!
Hey Luke, I’m 5 feet 11 inches and currently weigh 195 lbs. I’m riding size large.
Ok. I'm 6' 170lbs and I have a size large pre ordered I was just wondering if I should order some spacers. Thanks I think I will
Yea, would be a good idea to.. at least add one in there, maybe two still depending on the terrain your normal ride. If it’s rough find yourself going through all the travel or bottoming our, then yea, you’ll want to add that 2nd spacer
How are the stock peddles on the bike? My t8 arrives Friday.
Thanks
Do I have to perform the same procedure to both legs of the fork?
Nope. Just the one side where you put air into the fork.
What is the use of volume spacer in lay mans term?
In an air fork, the amount of pressure it takes to compress the suspension increases as you move through your travel. It takes less pressure to move the first 10% of your travel than it does to move the last 10%. When you set your air pressure properly your fork should be using about 10-15% of its travel when you're sitting on the bike. But when you start riding trails and you find yourself using all of your suspension too quickly - as in, it feels really squishy to the point where it feels like your nose diving when your breaking or taking corners, you probably need volume spacers. The spacers replace the air inside the fork chamber with plastic. So now, there is less air volume in the fork so now it will take more pressure to compress the higher end of your suspension.
You want your fork to be "soft" enough to absorb the terrain but you also need support from your suspension or else you end up nose diving into your fork and really mess you up. The volume spacers help give more "support" in the higher end of your travel. - sorry, i'm just trying to put this in different scenarios as I try to explain this more in text.. Think of an empty plastic water bottle. It's full of air and when the cap is on, you can still compress the bottle, maybe completely... but now, fill the water bottle up with 25% water and do the same thing. The initial compression of the water bottle might be the same, but now you cannot compress or squish the water bottle to the same level you could with the water bottle empty with just air. The more water in the bottle the harder it is to compress fully. This is the same with the volume spacers in your fork.
@@MTBTrailRider thank you bro. I appreciate it.
@@MTBTrailRider Bro.. one more thing. For example, without volume spacer I run 100 PSI. If I put a volume spacer, is it the same PSI ?
@@BikeTripBro Yep!
@@MTBTrailRider 👍👍👍
what WTB saddle model is that?
It’s the WTB SL8
The fox rhythm 34 is a 26mm top nut! A tape measure is all it takes. I run mine with one token at 80Psi with 20% sag. I weigh around 175lb and ride a stumpjumper 150/140. You must be a pretty heavy dude or do some heavy riding to need 100psi?!…
I weigh about 200lbs and run it at 15% sag. Our trails have several drops around 6’ that tend to have a harsher landing. Also, with our jump trail over here, if I run too low of a psi even with proper sag % my front end will dive to much as I press into the Face of the jump.
@@MTBTrailRider gotcha