Now this video was helpful. A buddy told me about your Chanel. I just started fly fishing and am hooked. I also subscribed. I will be checking out your other videos and looking forward to the new ones.
This video helped me immensely with learning Euro Nymphing. I started out Euro Nymphing by dredging the bottom with heavy nymphs and having mediocre success. I believe this is how most fishermen start out Euro Nymphing. Not only was I getting stuck more often, but I also seemed to be foul hooking a not-insignificant amount of trout. I knew I had to be doing something wrong. With the help of these videos and after much experimenting, my approach to Euro Nymphing completely changed for the better. The difference in my fishing performance is astounding. Less snags, more fish, and most of all, a much more enjoyable Euro Nymphing experience! In addition to this video, learning to let go of the idea of "feeling" everything and, instead, relying more on "watching/seeing" the sighter/line was so important. It has helped so much in facilitating better bite detection (and depth gauging, of course), especially on those very subtle takes.
Thanks! I'm really glad the video helped. Your experience is what 90% of anglers go through from what I've seen. The issue is most never move past the constant dredging which can lead to them giving up on the method and thinking that everyone else is crazy for recommending it.
excellent ! articulate, succinct, visual, well produced/photographed/videoed, thought and delivered in a timely manner and pace. Best fishing video on this subject matter ... by far! Thank you for you time and vision. Will definitely use your retail outlet more often.
This video just told me everything I need to focus on next season. I do have a question. I worked my self up a run but I was having issues getting deep quickly enough to reach a Larger fish who was hugging the very beginning of a drop off (3 foot deep pocket) in the very beginning of the run. I only had maybe 3 feet in front of that drop off to get the fly down fast enough and most of the time the fly would drift way above the fish, which was probably about 6 inches from the bottom and not willing to climb up the water column.
Sounds like you needed a tuck cast combined with the thinnest tippet you are comfortable with and a perdigon. My next video will be about how to adjust your sink rate and should help you in similar situations.
I'm new to Euronymphing - in fact only just geared up - and your instructional video has shifted what I thought I understood about the technique based on much viewing and reading where the indication seemed to be to get the point fly down fast to 'have more time in the strike zone'. I guess it depends on the nature of the substratum but, as you point out, trout are not going to be nosedived close to the bottom but rather a few centimetres above it while still benefitting from the relative low flow at depth. Ideally, one wants the fly close to, but not on, the bottom. I'm assuming that what you advocate applies especially when not using a dropper fly, which might otherwise help to target where the fish are holding, although avoiding ticks on the bottom by the point fly, even in the case of a tandem setup, will help avoid the hook becoming snarled. Now I know to choose the bead weight more carefully based on river depth and flow rate rather than going for the heaviest fly in the box and to gradually increase cast distance relative to the target zone to dial in the correct depth and, of course to watch for the drop-off. That's really useful information. Thanks!
Happy to help. It is my experience that most folks you should be bouncing the bottom constantly while nymphing with any style. That's just not played out in my experience.
Question: One thing I have learned with this process is deeper is better than too shallow. I feel like I can control depth with that point fly by raising the rod up a little. In other words, I can control depth by pulling the sighter out of the water higher, if I have too much weight on, thus reducing fly changes. If I'm fishing two flies, I always know my upper fly is there higher in the column. Can I control depth by simply moving that "too heavy" point fly up in the water column? Or does this reduce the dead drift presentation, reducing a chance at a take? I see it as all positive, because my line is super tight to the point fly when I'm pulling it up to a shallower depth.
You can always play with your rigging arrangement. You'll have better strike detection with the heavy fly on the point but less separation in the column if you put it on your dropper.
Thanks as always Devin- if you are fishing two flies, do you try and have your point fly closer to the bottom or does your principal of not fishing too low still apply? How do you determine if you are fishing too low vs too high and not getting down deep enough? Thanks again
I always try to work shallow to deep until I find the best depth. Eventually I make it to where my rig is slowing down and occasionally ticking bottom as I talked about in the video. Combined with whether I am catching fish or not, that's how I know whether I am at the right depth.
It's a Peux semi automatic reel. You pull the lever and it retrieves your line quickly with a one hand operation. www.tacticalflyfisher.com/peux-fulgor-semi-automatic-fly-reel/
Hi TFF. Little off topic. I have the same chest bag (front and back pieces). I noticed your chest bag is sitting closer to your waist, which I really prefer but my pack always rides up and sits too high on my chest, right under my neck (and I don't have anything heavy in the rear bag). Any tricks to share to keep it lower near the waist? TIA. Patrick
I have a waist pack on as well that the backpack of the chest pack rests on. That helps keep it in place. You can also tighten the side straps to provide some tension to help prevent the front part from sliding up as well.
Yes, or use the other strategies in this video. ua-cam.com/video/UIJB15HKNpI/v-deo.htmlsi=C8gZG_rzpyk8VyKr You can also start with a longer tippet section and use a Sakura Marker or Skafar's wax to make a sighter on your tippet that can be moved as depths change.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 I’m new to fishing well fly fishing , do you recommend I start out nymphing or dry fly? It all seems complicated, when I lure fish it’s tie a lure on and a way you go lol
@@Riich87 you can’t go wrong either way. You’ll probably catch more fish nymphing, especially in the colder months. But the enjoyment of making dry fly casts and learning to recognize good drifts has its own satisfaction even when you aren’t catching fish.
I wanted to ask you guys, have you tested the shadow X before? Ive been using them for a little over a year now and I truly love the 2wt and 3wt 10'6" rods I own compared to the cheaper rods Ive used in the past, BUT I don't know have experience with any "better" rods like the Contact and ESN to compare to the Shadow X. You guys have any insight/opinion on that? Thank you guys for the videos KEEP EM COMING!
The shadow x is a very nice rod at its price. As expected, it is a little heavier and slower to recover than the Contact II but it performs very nicely against the other mid-range rods and definitely outperforms the rods under $400.
@@everythingflytv507 I've seen just about everything out there. Lots of T and T, Sage, Cortland, and Echo domestically. Overseas you'll see lots of models often due to the company that sponsors a team.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Makes sense, does the Hardy Ultralite LL compare in performance to the ESN and Contact II or is it not as good in your opinion? Noticed you guys sell it on your website and wanted to ask as its caught my eye.
Your short videos are very helpful. Thank you.
Glad they’ve been useful.
Thank you for all the educational material, always gets me pumped to go practice
Glad to hear it!
Now this video was helpful. A buddy told me about your Chanel. I just started fly fishing and am hooked. I also subscribed. I will be checking out your other videos and looking forward to the new ones.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This video helped me immensely with learning Euro Nymphing. I started out Euro Nymphing by dredging the bottom with heavy nymphs and having mediocre success. I believe this is how most fishermen start out Euro Nymphing. Not only was I getting stuck more often, but I also seemed to be foul hooking a not-insignificant amount of trout. I knew I had to be doing something wrong. With the help of these videos and after much experimenting, my approach to Euro Nymphing completely changed for the better. The difference in my fishing performance is astounding. Less snags, more fish, and most of all, a much more enjoyable Euro Nymphing experience!
In addition to this video, learning to let go of the idea of "feeling" everything and, instead, relying more on "watching/seeing" the sighter/line was so important. It has helped so much in facilitating better bite detection (and depth gauging, of course), especially on those very subtle takes.
Thanks! I'm really glad the video helped. Your experience is what 90% of anglers go through from what I've seen. The issue is most never move past the constant dredging which can lead to them giving up on the method and thinking that everyone else is crazy for recommending it.
excellent ! articulate, succinct, visual, well produced/photographed/videoed, thought and delivered in a timely manner and pace. Best fishing video on this subject matter ... by far! Thank you for you time and vision. Will definitely use your retail outlet more often.
Glad you enjoyed it. Happy fishing!
Great tips.. thanks for the info.
Glad you enjoyed it. Have fun on the water.
A great lesson. Thanks Devin!
Thanks Charles. Happy Fishing.
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This video just told me everything I need to focus on next season. I do have a question. I worked my self up a run but I was having issues getting deep quickly enough to reach a Larger fish who was hugging the very beginning of a drop off (3 foot deep pocket) in the very beginning of the run. I only had maybe 3 feet in front of that drop off to get the fly down fast enough and most of the time the fly would drift way above the fish, which was probably about 6 inches from the bottom and not willing to climb up the water column.
Sounds like you needed a tuck cast combined with the thinnest tippet you are comfortable with and a perdigon. My next video will be about how to adjust your sink rate and should help you in similar situations.
Very useful video thanks.
Very good points, heavier is not always better
I'm new to Euronymphing - in fact only just geared up - and your instructional video has shifted what I thought I understood about the technique based on much viewing and reading where the indication seemed to be to get the point fly down fast to 'have more time in the strike zone'. I guess it depends on the nature of the substratum but, as you point out, trout are not going to be nosedived close to the bottom but rather a few centimetres above it while still benefitting from the relative low flow at depth. Ideally, one wants the fly close to, but not on, the bottom. I'm assuming that what you advocate applies especially when not using a dropper fly, which might otherwise help to target where the fish are holding, although avoiding ticks on the bottom by the point fly, even in the case of a tandem setup, will help avoid the hook becoming snarled. Now I know to choose the bead weight more carefully based on river depth and flow rate rather than going for the heaviest fly in the box and to gradually increase cast distance relative to the target zone to dial in the correct depth and, of course to watch for the drop-off. That's really useful information. Thanks!
Happy to help. It is my experience that most folks you should be bouncing the bottom constantly while nymphing with any style. That's just not played out in my experience.
Question: One thing I have learned with this process is deeper is better than too shallow. I feel like I can control depth with that point fly by raising the rod up a little. In other words, I can control depth by pulling the sighter out of the water higher, if I have too much weight on, thus reducing fly changes. If I'm fishing two flies, I always know my upper fly is there higher in the column.
Can I control depth by simply moving that "too heavy" point fly up in the water column? Or does this reduce the dead drift presentation, reducing a chance at a take? I see it as all positive, because my line is super tight to the point fly when I'm pulling it up to a shallower depth.
You can always play with your rigging arrangement. You'll have better strike detection with the heavy fly on the point but less separation in the column if you put it on your dropper.
Great advice to target feeding fish. Commonsense isn’t always common.
Thanks! And yes, we all fall victim to a lack of using our sense sometimes.
Hello Devin, do you have a video on how your micro leader is set up? Thank you for your videos.
Here you go ua-cam.com/video/GTcJcPMyBkk/v-deo.html
Thanks as always Devin- if you are fishing two flies, do you try and have your point fly closer to the bottom or does your principal of not fishing too low still apply?
How do you determine if you are fishing too low vs too high and not getting down deep enough?
Thanks again
I always try to work shallow to deep until I find the best depth. Eventually I make it to where my rig is slowing down and occasionally ticking bottom as I talked about in the video. Combined with whether I am catching fish or not, that's how I know whether I am at the right depth.
Wondering if you have any recommendations for Euro nymphing for great lakes steelhead? Rod size and weight? What would be your under $500 Rod?
The Soldarini RCX Drift 10’ 6/7 would be one choice. Your best option would be to go up just above $500 and get the Diamondback Ideal Nymph 6 weight.
What is that crazy handle thing on your reel during the intro clips? I’ve never seen that before.
It's a Peux semi automatic reel. You pull the lever and it retrieves your line quickly with a one hand operation. www.tacticalflyfisher.com/peux-fulgor-semi-automatic-fly-reel/
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Thanks! I’ll check it out.
Is a semi automatic reel appropriate for Large steelhead?
Can it handle a fish capable of long runs?
@@LokiLures the Peux reel certainly can. It has a fully functional multidisc drag like most traditional fly reels.
Question: when having 2 nymphs on the line , instead if changing to a heavier fly to get down more, adding any putty between the flys a possibility?
You certainly could try that.
Hi TFF. Little off topic. I have the same chest bag (front and back pieces). I noticed your chest bag is sitting closer to your waist, which I really prefer but my pack always rides up and sits too high on my chest, right under my neck (and I don't have anything heavy in the rear bag). Any tricks to share to keep it lower near the waist? TIA. Patrick
I have a waist pack on as well that the backpack of the chest pack rests on. That helps keep it in place. You can also tighten the side straps to provide some tension to help prevent the front part from sliding up as well.
Just say I wasn’t deep enough t would I need to cut off tippet and start again?
Yes, or use the other strategies in this video. ua-cam.com/video/UIJB15HKNpI/v-deo.htmlsi=C8gZG_rzpyk8VyKr
You can also start with a longer tippet section and use a Sakura Marker or Skafar's wax to make a sighter on your tippet that can be moved as depths change.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 I’m new to fishing well fly fishing , do you recommend I start out nymphing or dry fly? It all seems complicated, when I lure fish it’s tie a lure on and a way you go lol
@@Riich87 you can’t go wrong either way. You’ll probably catch more fish nymphing, especially in the colder months. But the enjoyment of making dry fly casts and learning to recognize good drifts has its own satisfaction even when you aren’t catching fish.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 I can use nymphs on any fly rod tho right? Not just a euro nymphin rod? ( like I said I’m clueless )
@@Riich87 yes. Euro nymphing is just one type of technique and rigging to fish nymphs.
I wanted to ask you guys, have you tested the shadow X before? Ive been using them for a little over a year now and I truly love the 2wt and 3wt 10'6" rods I own compared to the cheaper rods Ive used in the past, BUT I don't know have experience with any "better" rods like the Contact and ESN to compare to the Shadow X. You guys have any insight/opinion on that?
Thank you guys for the videos KEEP EM COMING!
The shadow x is a very nice rod at its price. As expected, it is a little heavier and slower to recover than the Contact II but it performs very nicely against the other mid-range rods and definitely outperforms the rods under $400.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Welp I definitely appreciate the info, looks like I will be upgrading in the next year.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Sorry last thing.. When you guys are at events with other pros. What are some common rod models that you see?
@@everythingflytv507 I've seen just about everything out there. Lots of T and T, Sage, Cortland, and Echo domestically. Overseas you'll see lots of models often due to the company that sponsors a team.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Makes sense, does the Hardy Ultralite LL compare in performance to the ESN and Contact II or is it not as good in your opinion? Noticed you guys sell it on your website and wanted to ask as its caught my eye.
Re-upload?
Yes, the first video had some audio issues for some folks so I edited it and uploaded again.
Man, first the wife now my Euronymph rod attacking me about this….
content is good, but that "music" is annoying.