(3 - Subfloor) Self-Building a Consent-Free Sleepout in New Zealand
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I'm not a builder, nor do I play one on TV 😁 but I'm giving it a go... follow along as we build our own sleepout, using the relatively new NZ building code “under-30m2” rules, so no building consent is required. The plan is to build it 'somewhat' to code, and do it reasonably properly - while trying to save a few dollars and learn a few new skills along the way.
The building is a 7.2m long x 3m (24' x 10' for those that don't understand 0-100) building for my daughter to live in, so I can have my master bedroom back!
Part three: Building the subfloor
Just stumbled onto your channel. Im a builder in NZ but then i see the name 😂 my old man only has 9 landies at the moment. Can't wait for more content 👍
Cheers man, feel free to sing out when I do a stupid then, lol... and 9 Landies?! Man, I feel inadequate now - but only 4 more for me to go to get there though...
When the cantilever is over 1 meter the hangers are to be inverted
Good to see you strapped the joist to the beam to prevent uplift
Nice work. Too remote for a nail gun? Don't want the noise of a gene , or the cost? Fair play smashing it all out with a hammer. ...
I've seen in other builds ,the floor insulation put in with a thin wood cross piece nailed right along the underside of the joists , then poly pushed right down to the base giving some extra trapped air for more R value. But only really possible using a gun to hold from above and shoot on the angle back to the underside of the joist to form the small insul bracket.
Nope, I have a nail gun... I just couldn't justify $320 for a box of galv nails for it - so went old-school... besides, that's just for framing nails, then I'd have needed the smaller ones for brackets as well. I actually just got a palm nailer, now that I've finished! It would have been very handy about 6 months ago 🤣
And re: the insulation - the instructions said to have it as close to the floor as possible - so thats (mostly) what I did. I also have some underfloor insulation in a roll which I was going to use, but it got too hard in the end - I'll use that elsewhere. I have to be very concious of making spaces that rodents or cluster-flies can get into - we have plenty of both here and I'd rather they didn't move in :)
hey man, what timber size and treatment timber did u use for your bearers?
Pretty sure they were 145 x 45 H3.2 (6 x 2's in old money). Cheers.
what you done was way overkill 100x100 beares would be cheaper and perfectly acceptable for that span and your rafters could have been 6x2 in the old money@@solihullsyndrome
@@brianseager6388 According to how I understand the building code, 6x2 rafters are not allowed over the 3m span I have? I could definitely have gone lighter weight materials if I'd ignored code - and I've seen others do that... but I am trying to stick to the rules on this build. If I've got that wrong could you point me to the right page in 3604 so I can make a correction for anyone following along. Cheers, Steve
Awesome content buddy. Thank you!
Are all your fixings all stainless steel?
Nah, galv. Couldn't justify the cost of SS for the fixings. I may be using SS screws for the cladding though...
your bloody goat haha
They're dags all right - Dick (the black one) is a bit of a character.
May I ask what the connection with Solihull is ? To spur you on when the roof goes on its half done. All the best .
Hi, yep - Solihull is the home of the Landrover factory - and everyone knows Landrovers hold their owners to ransom... so it was a play on that and Stockholm Syndrome. I know most of the videos have nothing to do with Landrovers (yet!) but it was the intention when I started this second channel to mostly do videos on my Landys... This building just got in the way!
And thanks for the motivation! It sure doesn't seem like half way... there still feels like so much to do! 😂
Good Progress 👍. What heating do you have in mind, a small fireplace would be nice for the cat hehe. Hope the rest of the holidays work goes well.
Hi John, good to hear from you. I expect it will be electric heating, a fire of any sort would require consent, so that can't happen unfortunately - a wee potbelly in the corner would be spectacular. Alas, I'm just trying to justify the expense of a double-glazed ranch slider - the extra sheet of glass triples the price in the second hand door market, but I want it to be warm and stay warm.
@@solihullsyndrome Double Glazing is great if you can have/afford it. But remember that "it's the most expensive thing you can do, that gives you the LEAST return" for your money.
An old fashioned thick, or modern "insulated" curtain-to-the-floor, (with pelmet overtop) has been shown to be very nearly as effective as double glazing. Number One thing in energy efficiency is to eliminate drafts (or "draughts"?). Number Two is insulated ceiling,
Number Three is insulated walls.
Numbers 4 and 5 are double glazed windows and underfloor insulation, but I'll let the two of them fight it out, for which way around.
I'm sure the finished sleep-out will be warmer and drier than most older homes, and even some newer "professional" built units.
Further clarification for overseas folks. We are roughly equivalent to USDA Zone 9 Winter climate (ie near coastal, Northern California). This is why even though we are at similar Latitude to Chicago Illinois (Zone 3) we don't need as much insulation or heating as places like inland continental USA, Chicago etc)
@@KiwiCatherineJemma It'll be getting a big thick curtain as well , but probably no pelmet - I think they're a great idea, but Nicki thinks they're old-fashioned. As a compromise, the curtain will probably be floor-to-ceiling 🙂 And I will eliminate drafts by only playing chess or backgammon 😅
@@solihullsyndrome Yeah, I think the last time I even SAW pelmets above curtains was in Grandma's old house and that was like 50 years ago, then ! Yeah I think thick, or modern insulating material curtains, will be excellent.
ask for a nailgun as birthday present, you earned yourself one with all this hard work !
I couldn't agree more! 😁
Big shout out for hand nailing and your hard work m8
Much appreciated. Funny thing though - I recently picked up a second-hand pneumatic palm-nailer just in time to put in the last 20 or so nails! 😂
Those are the nails we use in the U.S. we get ours from Amazon great price
Cheers, yep I did find some for cheap on Amazon, but the reviews weren't great for shipping, and a lot of them showed up broken in to smaller chunks - and since they would have to fly halfway round the world, I decided to just buy local...
Farm Craft 101! Haha
You get the bonus points! 👍 Yep - one of my favourite channels to watch.
This is going to help me build my own home - thank you so much!!!
Please double check everything I say before applying it to your own build, lol I can't guarantee I got everything right...
You should not need hangers when the cantilever is less than 1 meter
Thanks Greg, I think the maximum cantilever (do you mean overhang outside of the bearers?) allowed is about 300mm or 350mm for that size timber in the NZ code - but I'm very new at this... I kind of just erred on the side of caution when I wasn't sure.
those hangers were a waste of time and money all the load is one the bearers and you dont need to tiedown every joist also and the pile plates were also way over done i would have tied down the 4 corners and one in the centre normally on your anchor piles, they are normally a bit deeper for wind zones
@@brianseager6388 Thanks for the advice Brian, I'm learning as I go, and possibly misinterpreted NZS3604 when trying to work out what I needed. At least it's not likely to fall apart any time soon. Cheers, Steve