That must be so satisfying...playing an instrument that, when you first got it, was in multiple pieces. Then you did all of the work yourself, and now you have a finished product that is a completely Maestro Kimon restoration! I enjoyed watching this restoration series and that violin sounds beautiful! I cannot wait to watch the next restoration series for the cello!
That is qquite a project on that cello... Looking forward to it! I actually have a similar one waiting for my attention, although not nearly as involved. MAybe I'll make it along with your series, then :-P
Hello Maestro Kimon ! Really happy for you that Acura Meister is sponsoring your videos; you deserve it. However, I find it's hard to purchase their fittings through retailers, especially if you live in Canada. Maybe you can become a dealer ?? I'd purchase from you instead so you can make a few bucks ! Efcharisto poly !
Thank you so much for your kind words. I know that their products aren't available everywhere, we have to see what we can do about that. For the time being you can send them an e-mail to inform and order.
Dear Maestro, I am curious if you measure the amount of hollow in the fingerboard (along the length). I wonder if you think the amount is very important, and how to achieve a nice curve. In The Art of Violin Making book I read that if you lift the plane slightly at the end of strokes, it will form naturally, but I haven't practiced this enough to understand fully yet. Thanks for any advice!
Also, your footage of working on the nut was excellent. The best I've seen. I'm wondering which files are the ones you use for the string grooves? Do they leave a round groove? I have a very small mouse tail file that I was going to use for that part, but I'm not sure it will work.
Thank you for your kind words. Yes I measure the hollow of the fingerboard. For violin I do about 1,5mm. It is very important as a fingerboard that is too flat will give a buzz when playing and one that is too hollow will make it harder to play as the strings will be too high at the middle range. You have to do that with the plane, you can have a look to my video of the "Making a Violin" Series where I show how I made the fingerboard.
The sound post trim guide you use to cut the angle on the ends of the post (8:23 to 8:30 time stamp), what is the angle you cut that to? Thanks for all you do!
Hi, this is question about violin bridges. How come hardly anyone uses ebony for a violin bridge? I had my luthier make me one. And since it is ebony he said he can make it thinner without sacrificing strength. I've been playing on the ebony bridge and I find that the G and D are more responsive and projects more while remaining dark in tone. The A and E got brighter too. One other thing I noticed is that some of the wolf tones I have on upper G have diminished somewhat. So how come no-one uses ebony bridges?
I think that what you describe is exactly the reason that we don't use ebony. Most people want a warmer sound and I expect the thinner and harder ebony to produce a sound that is too brilliant. Maple is hard enough to support that strings and gives a wormer sound.
Great job and awesome sound. How you get those broken instruments? where you buy them from? I will love to put in practice everything that I am learning from your videos.
They are pretty good strings especially for the price. That greyish on your fingers comes from the aluminum and silver of the outer layer. Happens with a lot of strings and is perfectly fine.
I know it's a cheap violin, but scraping the varnish off of the top of the pegbox cheeks is unacceptable. Old Cremonese and French copy instruments have a black line there which if preserved adds to the beauty of the instrument. My J.B. Vuillaume violin still has it and I would kill if anyone removed it.
I like your job (restoring as well as youtubing - nice to see you and hear you).
Thank you so much!
That must be so satisfying...playing an instrument that, when you first got it, was in multiple pieces. Then you did all of the work yourself, and now you have a finished product that is a completely Maestro Kimon restoration! I enjoyed watching this restoration series and that violin sounds beautiful! I cannot wait to watch the next restoration series for the cello!
that's the magic of being a luthier, listening to an instrument after many hours or hard work and it sounds great is very satisfying
i'm looking forward to the cello series as well! I'm a cellist!
@@paulb5700 Me too! It's always more interesting when you're watching work being done on an instrument that you are familiar with, in my opinion.
@@simonsemaan5043 i fully agree! happy practicing!
Thanks! Same to you, Paul!
Great teacher Maestro-Kimon, always explaining super well. Thankful.
Thank you!
It's good to hear the violin played after the repair. What is in the larger half of your glue pot?
Very nice tone on the rebuilt violin Maestro. The work on the top plate paid off.
Thank you Max! It definitely did pay off.
Congratulations on your sponsorship, Maestro! Looking forward to the cello repair. :)
Thank you! I'll start working on it soon.
What a beautiful sounding violin. A beautiful restoration!
Thanks a lot Martin!
Warm sounding fiddle. Thanks! 🌞😎✌️🎻
Thank you!
That is qquite a project on that cello... Looking forward to it! I actually have a similar one waiting for my attention, although not nearly as involved. MAybe I'll make it along with your series, then :-P
Hello Tobias! As I say in the video, the instrument is broken in every part! There will be a lot to do, I have to start soon!
Thank you for your videos! I look forward to the cello series!
Sounds fantastic! Thank you for talking!
Good to hear! Thank you!
Looking forward to looking at the cello repair, Kimon. Thanks!
Good to hear! I will start soon!
Hello Maestro Kimon ! Really happy for you that Acura Meister is sponsoring your videos; you deserve it. However, I find it's hard to purchase their fittings through retailers, especially if you live in Canada. Maybe you can become a dealer ?? I'd purchase from you instead so you can make a few bucks ! Efcharisto poly !
Thank you so much for your kind words.
I know that their products aren't available everywhere, we have to see what we can do about that. For the time being you can send them an e-mail to inform and order.
Great work maestro!
Thank you!
Dear Maestro, I am curious if you measure the amount of hollow in the fingerboard (along the length). I wonder if you think the amount is very important, and how to achieve a nice curve. In The Art of Violin Making book I read that if you lift the plane slightly at the end of strokes, it will form naturally, but I haven't practiced this enough to understand fully yet. Thanks for any advice!
Also, your footage of working on the nut was excellent. The best I've seen. I'm wondering which files are the ones you use for the string grooves? Do they leave a round groove? I have a very small mouse tail file that I was going to use for that part, but I'm not sure it will work.
Thank you for your kind words. Yes I measure the hollow of the fingerboard. For violin I do about 1,5mm. It is very important as a fingerboard that is too flat will give a buzz when playing and one that is too hollow will make it harder to play as the strings will be too high at the middle range. You have to do that with the plane, you can have a look to my video of the "Making a Violin" Series where I show how I made the fingerboard.
Como me gusta el sonido de las escofinas........parece que huelo la madera👌
The sound post trim guide you use to cut the angle on the ends of the post (8:23 to 8:30 time stamp), what is the angle you cut that to? Thanks for all you do!
It is about 3,5 degrees. I have several ones, from 3 to 5 per 0,5
Amazing video thanks. I use the varnish you talk about just order more love it thank you
Good to hear that you are satisfied with the varnish!
Nice Job!
Thank you!
Hi, this is question about violin bridges. How come hardly anyone uses ebony for a violin bridge? I had my luthier make me one. And since it is ebony he said he can make it thinner without sacrificing strength. I've been playing on the ebony bridge and I find that the G and D are more responsive and projects more while remaining dark in tone. The A and E got brighter too. One other thing I noticed is that some of the wolf tones I have on upper G have diminished somewhat.
So how come no-one uses ebony bridges?
I think that what you describe is exactly the reason that we don't use ebony. Most people want a warmer sound and I expect the thinner and harder ebony to produce a sound that is too brilliant. Maple is hard enough to support that strings and gives a wormer sound.
Great! thank
Welcome!
Great job and awesome sound. How you get those broken instruments? where you buy them from? I will love to put in practice everything that I am learning from your videos.
Hello Ramon. Thank you for your kind words. Mostly I buy them from sites like e-bay or Craigslist.
What grits of micro mesh do you use for cleaning the top?
3600 for light dirt, 2400 when there is a thick layer of rosin
@@maestrokimon Thank you very much Sir!
What's your views on alphayue strings?
It leaves a greyish grease on fingers...will that affect the bow ?
They are pretty good strings especially for the price. That greyish on your fingers comes from the aluminum and silver of the outer layer. Happens with a lot of strings and is perfectly fine.
Thanks maestro 👍
I know it's a cheap violin, but scraping the varnish off of the top of the pegbox cheeks is unacceptable. Old Cremonese and French copy instruments have a black line there which if preserved adds to the beauty of the instrument. My J.B. Vuillaume violin still has it and I would kill if anyone removed it.
!!!!!!!!!
Σου άρεσε το βίντεο, Κώστα;
hello
Hello!
Concerning the cello. How does that happen?? Some people are real jerks. Maybe it was a school cello.