This series is by far the best I found for building a garden house. I was looking for a description during the last year from time to time. None of them was so extensive and doable as this one. Since today I know how to build my garden house. Thanks a lot for the effort putting all this together into a video series
That has turned out well. You have done a good job building that workshop! Don't forget that we are our own worst critics. When we build something we know where the crooked screws are located, nobody else will. There are a lot of people who would love to have that space to work it, I certainly would! Look forward to see how it grows and changes in the future.
I am definitely my own worst critic and that includes all of the comments I get lol. It is a wonderful black canvas and I plan to make lots of mistakes kitting it out .
My workshop is VERY SMALL.. I'll put the video up when it's lined. The frustration and stress so far is beyond 😂 This build series is fantastic! Doing all of this work by yourself is unreal! Awesome! 🙏
I've just watched the whole series and it was great. Either you are very stubborn or you have no mates 😀 I was so worried that your 'worst day of the build' was going to be you falling off the roof ... it was a tough watch. The main technical thing I have taken from the series is ... "check it's square, pretend it's square". What a relief. Thanks Mark. Derek in Tadcaster.
Hi Mark, I like what you have done, After knocking down your old shed to make this amazing workshop , now you turning your workshop to an brilliant I want one of those in my garden a place to be in all the time. I am happy for you to have a good workshop and now you are going to turn a workbench in to the ultimate workstation this will be some bench. Dust extraction ,table saw tool storage and you will need install a supply to the bench to power the table saw , dust extraction for the saw and my be 2 or 3 single sockets attached to the bench legs, so don't have a cable a long the floor. You can never have too many sockets in a workshop they are there for convenience so you don't have to use extension leads. Great and very interesting video to watch looking forward to the next one. See you soon take care😀👍
Hi Shaun. I still miss the old shed lol. Simpler time. You have ticked all boxes that I want for the table. They may not all go in at the start but eventually I want it to be an 8ft by 4ft one table covers all needs. Kind of like workshop junkies table was . IT will evolve over time but the table saw has to go in early. Whether I go for a torsion box is still in the air as that may be tricky with a circular saw. Dont ask me why I am not using the table saw for it. As you can tell the planning is not quite done.
I'm jealous. My entire yard isn't as big as your new shop. I love it. Believe it or not, it's actually better that's its not perfect. It gives it personality and makes it feel personal.
Brilliant stuff, I think the whole thing looks great, and I think you've done an excellent job! Looking forward to the costings and the bench, thanks for taking the time and trouble for posting, and... show me a man who's never made a mistake, and I'll show you a man who's never made anything, well done you. See you on the next one
Hey, thanks for the build videos. They've really inspired me and have somewhat gave me the confidence too take on a workshop build myself. Im a hydraulic engineer by trade and handy with tools and measurements and principles but im far from a carpenter or wood worker, barely doing any woodwork in my life. I'm really intrigued to see the cost video when you get around to doing it. Thanks again James
It's great too hear that you're in the process of the costing video. It hadn't even crossed my mind to think about a build myself and was toying with a basic shed built by a supplier. Along with yours and Ali's videos im feeling confident. The only two things that I'm struggling to get my head around at this point is how and what principles to work to for the window and door framework in the walls and how to build the two side walls with the incline, aka rake walls. I'd like to go down the same route as yourself and Ali and make the side walls with a incline.
It is very doable. I also had issues with the windows, hence not having opening ones. But I believe that it is not all. that tricky to do ones that open. My theory was that I can just build a box with my glass in and that would serve the purpose. The rake walls were made easy by the way Ali showed. I did the same way. Basically draw them out on the floor and match the wood to the lines. I made a few errors but they were easily fixed.
When I built my house which is all timber frame, I had a 2000 sqft home all to pack with rockwool, and 2 sets of ceilings. Oh my god, I'm getting nam-esque flashbacks watching you work Mark - but you nailed it. The space is looking epic.
Your great workshop is better insulated than my whole house (built in 1886.) Can't wait for the next phase and really looking forward to your bench build. Knowing you, the amount of thought and planning that you are going to put into it will be incredible..
I may have gone over budget with some areas like this. Belt and braces was the aim I took up half way through. Certainly added to the cost. The bench is either going to be massively over engineered or the opposite. It may depend on the wood I have, it looks like it is a little bit twisted which is annoying. But we will see.
The real question is "what the F am I going to do about my "house's cr*p thermal preformance?" Lots of solutions that range from minimal $ for D.I.Y. solutions to KDR (Knock Down Rebuild). I always recommend solutions for existing buildings that take advantage of existing thermal mass of thebuilding as this balances out the fluctuations in external temperature, though for a multitude of reasons (listing on the Historic Places Registrar), the easiest and cheapest solutions may not be admissible
I agree with everything you said, the only problem is that at my age I would rather pass on the monetary value of such works to my family for them to have a good time when I am gone. Any insulation costs will take much longer than I have got to live (morbid, I know) to pay for itself. Mind you, I may live to 99 like my grandmother so you never know.@@williammaxwell1919
I am a new subscriber from across the pond. I love how you fellas from the UK always build your own sheds. From Rag N Bone to Badger Workshop. Looks great though.
That was another great video! I acquired a detached garage with our last house purchase. It was just a shell with some electrics started, but not attached to power. I insulated and skinned it inside. I also installed a attic pull-down ladder so I could use the extra storage above. My ceiling has some of the same issues you experienced, but I used smaller battens, which showed-off the waviness a bit more. I have nearly 40 outlets in the walls and ceiling, so it is well set for electrics. I have more space, but too many tools... maybe I will DM you a picture of the inside one day. Good on ya!
I would love to see a picture. I am working very hard to not fill this place up. I think I will keep my smaller plastic shed that I bought to store my tools while I built, that way I can have an overflow unit to keep things that I dont use a lot. Plus I may build a sheet goods shed. As ply takes up a huge amount of space.
That looks awesome.... and thanks for doing this video! We are prepping to redo the interior of an old shed. Now I know roughly what needs to happen once we finish gutting it out. Thanks!
Hey Mark.! Cladding around wall sockets.! ( all of myne are above bench height ) - I gave up measuring and cutting rectangles. and just drilled a hole for the wires to pull through then trimmed the cladding when it was on the wall..I used 15mm plasterboard for sound deadening. ( apparently the denser the better ). Advice.!! :- nothing stands up to a sharp chisel dropped from a bench .! But for high traffic areas Used- Laminate flooring.! Is the way to go, so long as you keep it clean and don’t wear your slippy shoes.!!! Self adhesive vinyl makes for easy repairs. But is expensive, congrat’s on your new less claustrophobic contemplation area ( Makita dab radio keeps me sane.!! )👍❤️💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
In think you went about it the best way. I was thinking about plaster board but I was worried I would ruin it hanging things on the wall and swinging boards around. The floor is a back and forth in my head at the moment. I may end up laying a layer of 12 mm ply so I can floor varnish it as the OSB is a pain to sweep. A radio is a must. First I need internet though.
Mark, wonderful work! You're never going to leave the shop. Electrical, you're on your way to some major tool purchases. Very exciting! This is a splendid shop...are you about to transition into home builder? You have, certainly, taken more care than most builders would with your insulation installation. One question: wouldn't sheet rock (plaster board?) been more economical (and then you could tape and mud the seams)? Live and learn, you're doing great! Thanks for the rugby jersey in snippets.
It is a lovely place to be. A home builder is way beyond my energy levels. I have a new found respect for manual workers of any kind. It's one thing building your own workshop but another entirely picking tools up for 10 hours a day, 5 to 6 days a week. That said, I guess there are many jobs that have this kind of relentless exertion, the armed forces I would imagine is no walk in the park. You re spot on about plaster board. I was just worried that I would trash it hanging stuff on it. Not to mention that I am rubbish at the finish needed. It would certainly be a better choice for noise too. The choices are hard. But I am happy.
05:23 Thank god you mentioned it. That was the first think that came to mind, when I saw you cutting the stuff w/o a mask. In generell, people use mask way to rarely. Like when cleaning an old car interior with mold, painting 2k stuff, or cutting larger amounts of paper / cardboard. Always use PPE and use the correct filter on your mask. Future you will be glad you guys did! Btw, if you record your audio in the new workshop, you might add some sound dampening to the blank walls, tho it migh get better with the rest of your stuff in it. Either way, nice job mate. Well done! Ha, shoukld have watched the whole video before commenting on the sound dampening. 🙃
You are so right. I have to make myself wear mine for jobs that I wouldn't think of it. Mold is so damaging. Great advice on the sound. I have fitted a few panels and once I have the ceiling lights done, I will pop a few up there and hopefully that will help.
Looks great Mark! Every mistake will have been worth it too because it’s a lesson learnt 💪💪 definitely a huge upgrade from the old shed! Looking forwards to seeing you packet it out with tools! 😍
Looks fantastic! I have been working on the ceiling and electrical of my shop this year too, it's quite a lot of work but as it's closer to the finish now I'm glad I did it.
Love the vids, thanks for the tip about decorators caulk as I also thought you could sand it! Going to use it in a DIY project soon. You have probably saved me hours of work. Also really like your honesty in the projects, we all make mistooks, its how to solve them that makes us better. Only slightly jealous of your workshop, 9/10 on envy 🙃
Looking amazing great job can’t wait to see what you do next and to see the finished product. But as I’ve said before hats off to you for doing this all by yourself 👏👏👏 great job
Great work! Would love to hear more about your thoughts on how best to organise your space. I guess we can plan these things but might just have to start using the space before you really know.
That is what comes next. Spoiler , not spoiler, French cleat. Not the most efficient but so much fun. And you are spot on, it will evolve with use. Plus I have never had the larger tools before so there will be mistakes.
we put up a 25x30 foot all metal building with a concrete floor since my wife has asthma and allergies we put in rigid Styrofoam for insulation, a 3/8 ply screwed (using pan head screws on everything) to the uprights( added 1x nail strips between the metal uprights every 4 ft) and then placed a white slick finished paneling on top think will eventually put in a suspended ceiling (12ft to rafters ) have 2 box receptacles run through plastic conduit about every 6 ft . several of them have usb jacks in them, the plywood runs horizonal and panel vertical to provide more strength. a vibrating multi tool works great to cut out wall box holes i put in cheap harbor freight 5000 lum led lights (6 on ceiling) plus several along the walls at where workbenches will be eventually got them on sale for around 15- 17 us dollars only have the south wall finished so far but all insulated but roof needs something to hold the insulation more ( just slipped 1/4 in between rafters and sheeting strips) kind of floppy in spots. love seeing how everyone else does it New ideas and easier ways!!!!
yes and taking a while to finish off as i have Numerous other projects that i am working on (ie. water line break under out trailer house) . we put it 10 ft away from a stand alone 1 car garage i built years ago and plan to connect to the new building ( all one slope roof on garage) we had the cement run clear to the garage, and plan to put the air compressor and shop vacs in the covered breeze way eventually.. @@startmaking1
Coming together well. I’m looking at your space thing my lathe gonna go their, resin over in that corner , bandsaw there …..ahhh where’s my new workshop😊
Hey the interior is looking good. So much materials and hours have gone into this workshop! I am very curious about the costs. As an amateur/hobbyist we make mistakes of course. But you can be very proud. I would have preferred the insulation on top but with height limits insulating the inside makes more sense. For cutting rockwool and other insulation you can buy insulation knifes. They are cheap and save you a second pass. Old bread knifes from your kitchen may work as well.
The cost is something I really wanted to do a video where it was so low people would be shocked but with the constraints of access etc and deciding to make it myself, it was always going to go over budget. I will lay it all out in a video and see what the comparison with a flat packed one would be. Good advice on the knives, I am trying to remember all of the good suggestions so I can include them in the last video.
I have said it before, you are to hard on yourself, I think you have done a fantastic job building this workshop. So you have made some mistakes along the way but you have taken the build on and made a brilliant job of it. I for one have been inspired to have a go myself and am planning to start in the new year. Thank you for such an honest, great channel. Keep doing what you do, it is brilliant.
@@startmaking1 Thanks to your videos, I hope to build a workshop I am proud of. I have learnt a lot of great tips from following your build. Looking forward to seeing how your new workbench. 😀
Hi Mark, that’s a fantastic start and I can absolutely agree with your comment on the electrical sockets. There are three things I learnt putting in benches which I hope you will find useful. Firstly, working at the height of my very heavy table saw, I made every base unit that height. It comes in really useful when trying to manage 8x4 sheet material on your own. Secondly, I created a ‘boxed’ in duct which I then used to fit the electrical sockets into in one part of the duct then in the upper part, dust extraction tubing. (I didn’t want dust collecting on corrugated tubing). Ignoring all advice from so called professionals (who state that tools go in drawers to die) I created upper cupboards with French cleat inserts to store away all my tools. By using the French cleat system you can change cupboard usage around easily until everything is where you want it. The cupboard and cleats remain in position but you can move boxes, holed shelves and anything around until you are settled. It all comes form making early mistakes but hey, that’s how we learn. Like most, I just need some more space to put………….
Thank you for the great advice. Really useful. I like the cupboard ideas and in truth I may do that as a second sweep. For the moment I have one wall dedicated to French cleat and the opposite will be cabinets at low level. I may add in upper level if the tool accumulation continues.
Ha ha, it will, now I’ve just retired I’ve started on all the things I’ve collected stuff for over the years. Just learning to turn wood. Chisels, blanks, more sanding stuff, it all mounts up. The main thing is that it’s a journey of discovery and awe. You’ll get there, anyone who can build a workshop can do the rest. Best of luck and keep going with the vids, they are informative and we all learn from each other. W
Commenting as I watch- Hindsight: you could have put the foam insulation against the ceiling and then ran wire across the joists to hold the rock wool from falling. Just drill holes for the wire to pass straight through and attach on either end. “Touch wood” haha! Here in the US we say, “Knock on wood.” I’d love to know the background of that saying. I may just Google it. The shop looks awesome! Can’t wait to see the new workbench!
Thats is a very good point. I saw Badger do that and it looked doable. My worry was that it would be way to hard on. my own. We will see how the insulation works out. I have to say that hen I finished the weather got hot and the workshop was cold. Felt good.
Looks great, Mark! Sound seems good/perfect already - no echo, no outdoor noise (no expert, so others might differ) (also, you have a full face mask on your wall - bought only after you put in the ceiling?)
Thank you. I think that the mask you see is my protective face shield for when I use the router. I do have 2 masks, one for dust and one for fumes. But they are only the standard ones covering mouth and nose. Glad the sound is not tool bad.
Looking great fella. I think your sound insulation may have been even better if you left an air gap in there as well, but how much better who knows. I’m consuming loads of workshop build and sound insulation content at the moment because I’m in the planning stages lol
Hi Dean. Hope you are well. Currently doing a bit of a binge on your content. Loving the experiments with the router table and the dust extractor. You are right about the air gap. I wont ever know for sure but once everything is done I will try and do a few sound tests to see how much seeps out. Are you planning a full on build from scratch or a refit on what you have. It looks like a large space already.
@@startmaking1 we’re waiting on the OK from the lender and then hopefully buying and moving in ideally this side of Christmas. I’ll be having to build one from scratch though, I don’t think the stuff I have will be workable in a normal tiny single garage lol
I know you want your workspace to look good for the camera but your shed is better decorated than parts of my house! Great job, Mark. I was surprised how little wall cleating you had up… I’m finding my french cleat system is probably the most useful thing I’ve done to make tools accessible (and remember sometimes that I have them). As I’m adding more clamps (cos you can never have too many clamps, right?) I’m finding that I need more space for more cleats. I look forward to seeing your workspace develop.
One of the down sides of making videos is I need to decorate the shop and tidy it. Both things I hate. But I like making videos so it's tricky. There will be more French cleat coming. to be honest, I put this bit up as I kept kicking my tools and was swearing a lot. I will have to put more up[ so I can film it and becasuse the more you have the more efficient it is. Cant wait to start making the holders. One of my favourite videos was doing that.
You forgot my advice about getting a couple of milk crates or beer crates and a plank when you board the ceiling. A Cap with a little padding is as good as a third hand when boarding ceilings. 25 years of doing them taught me that. Also it looks like you ran your boards the same way you have your joists that will emphasise any sag and agross the joists makes the structure stronger. Another tip with membrane fix down one wall and the staple down the nearest joist to center of the sheet first, the work away from that each way, it will always keep it tighter. Sockets are pia easier to just leave the wires and drill a hole to poke them through and cut the out with a multi tool after. By the way your air gap on ceiling should be roof side of insulation or your directing cold air across your ceiling boards which makes the insulation pointless. Now ive depressed you ill get me coat good luck.
You are spot on. I was torn as to which way to do it and to be honest I thought about trying to keep the air gap in the middle but then I watched a video but oakwood rooms and he explained it in a way that I realised that 100% perfect may not be attainable. Or that was my take away anyway. The one thing I was worried about is that he did not vent the gap. In truth, my holes are tiny and probably dont vent it either. I think for that reason it should be fine. The sockets are really shoddily done and that will bug me but also shows me I have improvements I can make. All in all, it is not a bad job, somewhere in the middle.
Yeah, sheets, especially thin ply, should be run perpendicular to the supporting structure.; way less sage, but more importantly, structurally stronger. There are many ways to deal with the "unsupported" sheet butt joint; battens, pvc jointer, blocking (behind joint), ply tabs on the upper side of one sheet... but at the end of the day it comes down to "how finicky do I want to be?" and "who am Itrying to impress?" If the answer to the last question is "just me", then you have a clear winner.
@@startmaking1With air flow on the top of your ply ceiling it will keep your ply cold and warm moist air from you will be inclined to compensate on that ply. If i remember you closed off your joists on the plates which stopped airflow. You can get plastic fly guarded 1x1inch pieces to top off those pieces which allow air flow but stop pests. And then round plastic air vents in soffit to complete the airflow.
So far I have really only ever applied my finish in the summer months as that is when I have the time to make stuff. It is an interesting question. My plan was to try it with the doors open and see how it goes. the heater on the workshop with all the insulation manages to get it up to a good heat with the doors open which is surprising. Though, long term I may need to plumb an extractor of sorts.
The workshop looks great, what a fantastic space! One concern I do have however is putting the roof insulation tight against the roof sheeting with the air gap below. The air gap will allow cold air into the void as it should, but this will now be in direct contact with the plywood sheeting inside, which somewhat defeats the point of insulating the roof as it’s now not doing anything in terms of thermal efficiency. It will still help reduce sound transfer but not much since any sound will just escape through the air gap. From my understanding the air gap needs to be above the insulation for those reasons, primarily heat insulation. Interested in your thoughts. I’m sure it will be just fine though, after all it is a workshop not a house! Keep up the good work
You are spot on. I was torn as to which way to do it and to be honest I thought about trying to keep the air gap in the middle but then I watched a video but oakwood rooms and he explained it in a way that I realised that 100% perfect may not be attainable. Or that was my take away anyway. The one thing I was worried about is that he did not vent the gap. In truth, my holes are tiny and probably dont vent it either. I think for that reason it should be fine. Time will tell. But thank you for reaching out. Like you say, Im not living in it. Well not until the cost video gets seen, then I may be kicked out into it
Hi Mark, great job and very informative video. I want to insulate my summer house, but I can't decide between PIR boards and Rockwool mineral wool. It would be easier and quicker to install Rockwool wool, especially in tight spaces, around wires, etc., but PIR boards offer better thermal insulation. Is your workshop warm enough, and would you insulate it with PIR boards instead if you had to do it again? Thanks
Mine is really well insulated. Maybe a little too much but it is hard to tell as I dont have windows that open. You see, in summer it is cold when I enter, like really cold but once it warms up it stays warm until late at night. And in the winter it can often still be warm from the day before . So it is a blessing in the winter but annoying in the summer . But then I have a lot of studio lights and they kick out so much warmth. Sorry to be confusing.
Thanks for sharing your build and the thoughts behind it. I'll be interested to see how warm in winter / cool in summer it proves to be. I insulated a wooden shed for pottery making and was worried about keeping the structure breathable with all that wet working inside. I used a multifoil breather membrane with air gaps both sides. So far so good. I guess your walls would be breathable if you hadn't put plastic behind the inner surface? Next project is the woodshop shed because I'm fed up with all my tools rusting in the damp. Different set of problems. I assume part L building regs don't apply to sheds?
I may take some temps. Today it was 4 degrees outside for a while and the inside was bearable without a heater but any colder I think it would soon get too cold inside. I have no clue about building regs if I am honest.
I think you gave yourself an awful lot of work putting your electrics in the wall as you found out having to match openings with back boxes getting the vapour barrier sealed around them etc. As you said it is a workshop and a bit of an industrial look to it is not going to spoil the look. In my garage/workshop with attached mancave/garden office I simply ran 50 X 50 PVC trunking around at ceiling height, where I needed sockets and switches I simply attached PVC conduit between back box and trunking. This is a very flexible system allowing easy placement of additional sockets as the needs require and it all looks quite neat and professional.
I agree. It is common over here in shops/garages to have the electrics just completely on top of the wall. Sockets, switches and lines. Makes it very flexible as well.
IT was a tricky decision and for pure practicality you are spot on. I built this as a kind of investment on the house though and pictured someone making it into a home office or gym etc. And they could cope I am sure with external plug sockets but I wanted to do it as well as I could. But overall you are right. And actually with exposed pipe I think it would look really cool. Kind of industrial.
I’m at the same stage as this video with my own workshop build. I’m a novice and have done the same as yourself taking inspiration from various pro’s on UA-cam. I went for a traditional cold roof for simplicity. Please don’t take this as criticism as I don’t know the correct answer but surely your air gap (which is ventilated) means you’ve made a cold spot on what should be the warm side of the insulation…so negating the effect of all that insulation that’s in contact with the cold side of the roof. If you’re going for a Oakwood style ‘hybrid’ roof then that gap shouldn’t be ventilated. Anyway, not trying to be negative as the workshop is bloody fantastic. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed this series and laughed along the way as I made very similar mistakes which is par for the course when it’s your first attempt at a huge project like this. I’m having all the electrics surface mounted as I’m not fussed about it looking pretty so I have the option to make changes down the road if my socket locations don’t work out.
Chris, I think you have made better choices than me bud. The air gap ventilation will have to be blocked. No big deal and to be honest there will probably be very little air flow as the gaps are so small. I re watched oakwood and he doesn't ventilated your re right. All good. Also the surface mounting is far simpler and more versatile. Again, you have made a better choice here. Not that I really regret it but I may down the line. Time will tell. Well done for getting to this stage. Its not easy.,
@@startmaking1 sealing up those ventilation holes sounds sounds a great solution…and a simple one. I have made so many silly mistakes on my build because I literally can’t think ahead when I’ve not got the required experience. Obviously I would do it different if I built another one but I don’t plan to so it’ll have to be as it is. Looking forward to your future projects in the new workshop! 👍
Mark, if anytime later you should like to add or reposition any of your lighting, remember track lighting. With today's LEDs, you can put a whoooole lot of lighting in there, with very little power and exactly where you want it. 😁✌🖖
@@startmaking1: As I read your reply, I also thought about LED cove lighting? NO! Great in the house but Not in the dusty shop. Too bad, because it Would be great, if not for the dust. Oh well. 😁✌🖖
Hi, Mark. I wish I would have thought of this earlier. For marking sheet materials, for cutting or whatever, you can't beat a drywaller's T-square. It is a 48" (in the US) aluminium T-square. Check it out. P.S.: For filling over the screws, in the plywood walls, you might have tried lightweight drywall patch/filler. It doesn't need sanding. Cheap experiment. For wood projects and repairs, definitely wood filler. 😁✌🖖
You know, I have one somewhere. I just packed it away while I was building lol. I think I am already regretting filling over the screws as there is bound to be a time I need to replace a panel. Oh well.
Doesn't venting directly above the ceiling remove the very advantages you're seeking by using insulation in the first place? Wouldn't you use a reflective type insulation immediately below the roof cladding (such as your foil lined insulation), then ventilate the roof space below that, then put a fluffy type insulation (like rock wool) immediately above the ceiling? Otherwise you end up with moving air above your ceiling, and the whole point of insulation is to stop the air moving (and thereby stop (or at least slow) convection currents) to trap heat.
You are spot on but it should be alright as I am not losing to much heat it seems. I was a bit held back by worrying about the Rockwool falling out if I didn't manage to complete in a day. But overall it is not too bad.
@@startmaking1 There was absolutely no need to drill holes to try to ventilate that air gap between the insulation and the plywood - the air gap is on the warm side, it will never get mould and shouldn't ever have condensation issues. By ventilating that gap you have severely reduced the effectiveness of the insulation. This type of hybrid roof construction is fine for low occupancy buildings such as this, and so long as you have not left an air gap on the cold side it does not need ventilating - ventilating the air gap on the warm side is pointless (and severely detrimental to the effectiveness of the insulation)
@@startmaking1 Yes, sorry i can see on your later costings video you acknowledged this. Never mind, live and learn - my first workshop i made far bigger mistakes!
Might be be too late now but I’d seriously consider weighing up a jobsite saw / bench combo thing vs a proper cabinet saw and a workbench/out feed table. Your bench might have to be smaller but I think you’ll get a better end result and you’ll probably find if you get a contractors saw you’ll want to upgrade to a cabinet saw, they’re insanely loud and generally a bit underpowered for ripping thicker boards. You can regularly pick up an old wadkin ags10 that needs a bit of work for the same price as a decent contractors saw.
Sadly, I have already bought the contractor Dewalt and have just heard that it is mega loud. I am yet to open it and test it but I have been thinking about extra layers of sound proofing as a result. If it gets a lot of complaints I may have to take the hit, sell it and get a quieter cabinet saw. Of well. Typical me .
Don't worry about the noise, people are comparing it to a table saw. It's more than a plug in circular saw, but you'll get used to it. I bought the DeWalt 7491 RS and absolutely love it. Just wait until you see, and move the fence on your new saw. You'll be in heaven. Perfect cuts every time, forever. It's amazing.@@startmaking1
I am sorely tempted. Not my trim router but maybe a larger model. The only issue that I have is budget. I am planning on getting a table saw for it and that is not cheap. After building the workshop it feels sensible to keep the videos in line with the channel., ie beginner to low intermediate as much as I want to just fill the place with cool tools. Tough choices.
So far, I have a small oil filled radiator in the middle of the room. takes approx 90 mins to go from 3 degrees c to 10 to 14 from experience. I think I may get a second and that should do it.
@@startmaking1 you're doing fine. It's great to watch these experts making pieces of five furniture but it's also great to watch you do something more similar to our level 😃 hopefully that's not offensive 😂
That's a fantastic job. I'm going retro fit insulation in my shed but it'll be nowhere near as comprehensive as your job. Must have been very expensive.
@@startmaking1 The Timber roof deck, it can be seen at 8:02. In the image it shows that it has ventilation directly below it. But the way you have done it doesn't, you have moved the airgap to be under the insulation. My question and worry is that the timber of the roof deck may get damp because it's not part of the ventilation. But maybe that's not an issue, I'm not sure. Anyway good video!
You are spot on. I was torn as to which way to do it and to be honest I thought about trying to keep the air gap in the middle but then I watched a video but oakwood rooms and he explained it in a way that I realised that 100% perfect may not be attainable. Or that was my take away anyway. The one thing I was worried about is that he did not vent the gap. In truth, my holes are tiny and probably dont vent it either. I think for that reason it should be fine. Time will tell.
@@startmaking1 I think it's important to know a lot of people questioned his roofing approach. Check out a guy called Steve roofer if you want to see it done correctly.
That's a tidy job mate. Ok the experts can pick holes in any job....they pick holes in each others work 🙄......but if you're happy with your efforts then well done 👏🏻
A great effort but my personal opinion is there are quite a few building details wrong, base and roof in particular. I accept a lot of this is due to the 2.5m rule, you most likely needed a higher ceiling for filming. I am not meaning to have a go at you atall over it, just wanted to say that the fundamentals are you need a lot of airflow with the base plus there is no such thing as a hybrid roof, only hot or cold roof. People can make their choices but a great resource is the Ali Dymock build in terms of best practice. As long as people make informed choices it's all good. Anyway well done and I look forward to some woodworking projects!
I bet you are right. I tried to get as much space as possible . Partly for filming but also for the next people who may utilise the space for their needs. And dont worry all criticism is welcome. I have learnt through the build in the comments section. The base is a little low but with the overhangs there is very little water that passes under it and so long as I clear any debris the air can flow freely under the building with ease. I would have liked another 15mm or so but any more and I would have struggled to keep below the height. The hybrid roof idea came from oakwood garden rooms video. I watched and in fact credited Ali for his range of videos, an amazing source and in truth it is the reason I always say that this is not a how to. His is a how to. I like the idea and the explanation that Oakwood garden rooms puts for their hybrid roof. I plan to block the ventilation for the air gap if the room struggles to retain heat. I am looking forward ti staying in my lane and just making some wood shavings if I am honest. I can only hope that this series shows people that it is possible to do more than you think you can . But also that they should visit people like ALI DYMOCK and use his expertise.
Like other commenters I think you have not got the cold roof / warm roof correct. But having said that I suspect it may not be a problem. The reason it may not be a problem is because this is not likely to be a humid environment like a house, with cooking and bathing generating water vapour. Don’t forget some types of heating will generate water vapour, like Kerosene or LPG (unless it’s room sealed. I can provide more info if you don’t understand the term ‘room sealed’ ).
Yeah I agree. It is not right but I dont think that the air flow will be enough to take out all of the warmth. And as you say, Im not making a lot of moisture in there. I was planning on just having an oil filled radiator in there. Just for when I am in the workshop. I dont really mind the cold all that much.
"At certain angles you can see it's no quite lined up.." If you don't tell anyone, nearly all (99% +?) won't notice... but hay, it's a workshop built for purpose! As for accoustics and reverberation: one solution is to use perforated sheet material (such as plywood with holes at 8 to 10mm grid (commercially availiable) or throw in an oversized horse-hair stuffed couch or furnishing(s) that has mass that deadens sound (as my accoustic lecturer at architecture school recommended as the most cost effect solution foe unwanted reverberation in a small space). Note to shelf ~ in THoW build, consider perforated ply to ceiling (holes will reduce O/A weight but not affect strucuratal integrety) That said, 1% break in the acoustice barrier = >95%+ noise transmition. As an architect who has designed acoustic floors, walls, ceilings, doors, penetrations... etc for cinemas, it's not an insignificant problem, though it is a problem that has solutions, though allcome with budgetary constrants.
Lol thank you Peter. you know, I wanted to stick with Makita on one hand. But then I thought, why? The only reason I stick to them for hand held cordless is the battery platform. The tools are pretty good but then again I have never tried anything else really. No, I am about to pull the trigger on the overpriced Dewalt. Only because of the fence. I always promised myself that when I got the workshop finished I would treat myself to a top of the line table saw. Trouble is a cabinet saw is not in line with the channel. I would struggle to keep it relevant. So job site saw it is and the Dewalt has the best reviews in my opinion even if it is nearly double what it was for the same saw 2 years ago. Must be a popularity thing. I was tempted by evolution and was offered a sponsored one but the channel cannot become a freebee channel with too many free tools.
@@startmaking1 understand, I just got the Makita 2704N 260mm. Only used it a few times but seems a Nice bit of kit. So we will soon be getting all your tricks and sledge builds…… I hope.👍 Looking forward to the workbench build, I hope you will be making a cut list as well as a full materials list. Cheers.
@@startmaking1 Hey you know we are all behind you and Im sure you will do a great job. Also if it all goes tits up…. We will learn what not to do so…. All good. Have a great weekend.
That roof makes no sense. It's not going to keep any heat in f the air gap is below it as it'll just escape. The air gap needs above the insulation - i.e. between that and the OSB roof. I reckon you'll be spending a lot more to heat it as most warmth escapes up as it rises.
You are right and in the costings video I explained the error. To be honest though it made so little difference in the winter as far as I can tell. And as it is not a place where people live, I will leave it be for a bit and if necessary fix later.
Good job however your walls are not breathable, any moisture that gets trapped in there is staying and causing rotting. Outside didn’t need the osb, it should have been membrane on the frame, battens for an air gap then cladding on battens
Thermal insulation is the reverse of acoustic insulation. For deaden sound you need density/mass, not air gaps. Rockwool will achieve almost nothing when it comes to preventing noise escaping.
Oh really. Is that correct. I am confused as I was watching how to make acoustic panels and they absorb sounds. They use a wide weave cloth on the outside to let the sound through and then wooden insulation inside to absorb the sound. This is why I went for Rockwool over foam boards in the walls. The air gap is because the sound waves travel directly between solid objects and an air gap stops that. Maybe I have it wrong.
The workshop is looking really good. :) Looking forward to the workbench build to see what route you take with it. Got a couple of suggestions that might help. ua-cam.com/video/lvEVWRh20Nk/v-deo.html that vid might help you with designing the layout. I use tinkercad quite a bit and like how simple it is to use. Secondly, having the infeed and outfeed sections for the table saw detachable and movable might be handy so that you can work with large wood sheets a lot easier.
I love getting a link. Thank you. I can check it out and know it will be super useful. I need a simple program if I am ever going to plan stuff. Not the brightest on a PC. My plan for the table is to integrate the saw into the table completely so the outfeed side is the construction part of the table. I have been back and forth on this a lot as I would have like to be able to take it all apart. But then I saw that you can't buy the table saw I want without a stand on wheels so I figure if I need to take it out of the table I can and move it like that. I honestly dont know what is best and my. mind changes almost daily.
The battening seems unnecessary for a workshop, every time you mount something to the wall or ceiling they’ll likely get in the way. Learned a lot though otherwise
Love that it kind of made sense. In truth you are spot on and since this it has got in the way but I still like the aesthetics on camera. Appreciate the comment.
M8 bravo 👏👏👏 that is looking amazing and avout to order table saw??🤔🤔🙄 Ok. We'll see. Honestly though shop is looking amazing loving the cleat wall. Still think needs a pallet slat wall will give u options to put things onto. A revkon u need find the website dainer used or the one u did and batch out some those boxes for storage parts. Looks phenomenal cant wait see what you do in it. Ps nowt wrong with anything about that video. 📨 Will expand over there 🏴👍
Thank you Mike. Pallets are waiting to be stripped. Then I will see if it looks ok. I may need 100 of those boxes by the time I am done. So many bits and bobs building up all over the workshop. Appreciate the feedback too. Thank you
@@startmaking1 yea a no the feeling from what can remember aswell as other bits and bobs I've found here plus few things wanna organise bit better gonna need make whole load storage.
This series is by far the best I found for building a garden house.
I was looking for a description during the last year from time to time. None of them was so extensive and doable as this one.
Since today I know how to build my garden house.
Thanks a lot for the effort putting all this together into a video series
Hi. Thank you very much. good luck with your build.
That has turned out well. You have done a good job building that workshop!
Don't forget that we are our own worst critics. When we build something we know where the crooked screws are located, nobody else will.
There are a lot of people who would love to have that space to work it, I certainly would!
Look forward to see how it grows and changes in the future.
I am definitely my own worst critic and that includes all of the comments I get lol. It is a wonderful black canvas and I plan to make lots of mistakes kitting it out .
Really well said, totally agree with your comments 👍
My workshop is VERY SMALL.. I'll put the video up when it's lined. The frustration and stress so far is beyond 😂
This build series is fantastic! Doing all of this work by yourself is unreal! Awesome! 🙏
Cant wait to see. And I can relate with the stress. But it will come good in the end.
I Hope so. It's just the cost of sheet material at the moment that's holding me back. A piece at a time, but hopefully before the winter hits! 😊
Slow and steady bud
Looking good. I always like to see new ideas for shops. My wood shop is 7 years old and still evolving.
I wonder if they ever stop evolving.
I sure wish I was a neighbor. I would love to learn ....hands on. Great job
Thank you very much.
Congrats! And virtually all without someone's assist. Ya are rightful to be proud of what you've created.
Thank you very much. It will probably be ever evolving but as a base to grow from, I am happy.
I've just watched the whole series and it was great. Either you are very stubborn or you have no mates 😀 I was so worried that your 'worst day of the build' was going to be you falling off the roof ... it was a tough watch. The main technical thing I have taken from the series is ... "check it's square, pretend it's square". What a relief. Thanks Mark. Derek in Tadcaster.
Thank you for sharing Derek. I am definitely very stubborn. As for the technical learning, it's a good way to go easy on yourself.
Just binged your Workshop playlist. Top stuff. Just subbed, really great dude. Namaste x
Thats really kind. Thank you.
Hi Mark, I like what you have done, After knocking down your old shed to make this amazing workshop , now you turning your workshop to an brilliant I want one of those in my garden a place to be in all the time. I am happy for you to have a good workshop and now you are going to turn a workbench in to the ultimate workstation this will be some bench. Dust extraction ,table saw tool storage and you will need install a supply to the bench to power the table saw , dust extraction for the saw and my be 2 or 3 single sockets attached to the bench legs, so don't have a cable a long the floor. You can never have too many sockets in a workshop they are there for convenience so you don't have to use extension leads.
Great and very interesting video to watch looking forward to the next one.
See you soon take care😀👍
Hi Shaun. I still miss the old shed lol. Simpler time. You have ticked all boxes that I want for the table. They may not all go in at the start but eventually I want it to be an 8ft by 4ft one table covers all needs. Kind of like workshop junkies table was . IT will evolve over time but the table saw has to go in early. Whether I go for a torsion box is still in the air as that may be tricky with a circular saw. Dont ask me why I am not using the table saw for it. As you can tell the planning is not quite done.
@@startmaking1 Good luck with the next stage of this workbench It's going to be a good one, Take care Mark
Enjoyed that 👍🏻 Going to watch the rest. Thanks for making the vid.
You are welcome. And thank you
Thank you so much for taking us along with you on this ride. You are doing a great job, and I have learned so much from you.
Thank you Jon. I too have learnt a lot from successes and mistakes.
I'm jealous. My entire yard isn't as big as your new shop. I love it. Believe it or not, it's actually better that's its not perfect. It gives it personality and makes it feel personal.
That is a very good way to look at it. Character.
Brilliant stuff, I think the whole thing looks great, and I think you've done an excellent job! Looking forward to the costings and the bench, thanks for taking the time and trouble for posting, and... show me a man who's never made a mistake, and I'll show you a man who's never made anything, well done you. See you on the next one
Thank you Paul. And you are right. Mistakes are part of learning.
I love the workshop, the filming, honesty - great work buddy 👍
Thank you Gary. Much appreciated.
It's looking good. I have enjoyed this series so far.
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
Kia Ora Mark looking great congratulations you’ll be proud of your workshop..looking forward to the future projects 🎉
KIa Ora bud. And as always, thank you. I hope you are doing well. Projects are so much closer now.
Hey, thanks for the build videos. They've really inspired me and have somewhat gave me the confidence too take on a workshop build myself.
Im a hydraulic engineer by trade and handy with tools and measurements and principles but im far from a carpenter or wood worker, barely doing any woodwork in my life.
I'm really intrigued to see the cost video when you get around to doing it.
Thanks again
James
That is great to hear thank you. The cost video will be out soon. Planning it as we speak.
It's great too hear that you're in the process of the costing video.
It hadn't even crossed my mind to think about a build myself and was toying with a basic shed built by a supplier.
Along with yours and Ali's videos im feeling confident.
The only two things that I'm struggling to get my head around at this point is how and what principles to work to for the window and door framework in the walls and how to build the two side walls with the incline, aka rake walls. I'd like to go down the same route as yourself and Ali and make the side walls with a incline.
It is very doable. I also had issues with the windows, hence not having opening ones. But I believe that it is not all. that tricky to do ones that open. My theory was that I can just build a box with my glass in and that would serve the purpose. The rake walls were made easy by the way Ali showed. I did the same way. Basically draw them out on the floor and match the wood to the lines. I made a few errors but they were easily fixed.
Thanks for bringing us along. Wish I had the room and budget for a shop like this! Take care & stay safe.
Thank you Doug. And thank you for coming along.
When I built my house which is all timber frame, I had a 2000 sqft home all to pack with rockwool, and 2 sets of ceilings. Oh my god, I'm getting nam-esque flashbacks watching you work Mark - but you nailed it. The space is looking epic.
Sorry for the PTSD. I get it watching people fit rubber roofs. Thank you.
Learnt a lot after this, thanks mate
Thats brilliant, thank you.
Your great workshop is better insulated than my whole house (built in 1886.) Can't wait for the next phase and really looking forward to your bench build. Knowing you, the amount of thought and planning that you are going to put into it will be incredible..
I may have gone over budget with some areas like this. Belt and braces was the aim I took up half way through. Certainly added to the cost. The bench is either going to be massively over engineered or the opposite. It may depend on the wood I have, it looks like it is a little bit twisted which is annoying. But we will see.
The real question is "what the F am I going to do about my "house's cr*p thermal preformance?" Lots of solutions that range from minimal $ for D.I.Y. solutions to KDR (Knock Down Rebuild). I always recommend solutions for existing buildings that take advantage of existing thermal mass of thebuilding as this balances out the fluctuations in external temperature, though for a multitude of reasons (listing on the Historic Places Registrar), the easiest and cheapest solutions may not be admissible
I agree with everything you said, the only problem is that at my age I would rather pass on the monetary value of such works to my family for them to have a good time when I am gone. Any insulation costs will take much longer than I have got to live (morbid, I know) to pay for itself. Mind you, I may live to 99 like my grandmother so you never know.@@williammaxwell1919
I am a new subscriber from across the pond. I love how you fellas from the UK always build your own sheds. From Rag N Bone to Badger Workshop. Looks great though.
Welcome aboard. I was inspired but Badger to get off my bum and make this workshop. His design was what I originally wanted to achieve.
Your dream shop is almost done, looks awesome!
Just had the electrics finished. Now it is a lot of fun to be in,
That was another great video! I acquired a detached garage with our last house purchase. It was just a shell with some electrics started, but not attached to power. I insulated and skinned it inside. I also installed a attic pull-down ladder so I could use the extra storage above. My ceiling has some of the same issues you experienced, but I used smaller battens, which showed-off the waviness a bit more. I have nearly 40 outlets in the walls and ceiling, so it is well set for electrics. I have more space, but too many tools... maybe I will DM you a picture of the inside one day. Good on ya!
I would love to see a picture. I am working very hard to not fill this place up. I think I will keep my smaller plastic shed that I bought to store my tools while I built, that way I can have an overflow unit to keep things that I dont use a lot. Plus I may build a sheet goods shed. As ply takes up a huge amount of space.
That looks awesome.... and thanks for doing this video! We are prepping to redo the interior of an old shed. Now I know roughly what needs to happen once we finish gutting it out. Thanks!
I did a silmlar thing to the original shed but with just the foam. Made such a difference.
Hey Mark.! Cladding around wall sockets.! ( all of myne are above bench height ) - I gave up measuring and cutting rectangles. and just drilled a hole for the wires to pull through then trimmed the cladding when it was on the wall..I used 15mm plasterboard for sound deadening. ( apparently the denser the better ). Advice.!! :- nothing stands up to a sharp chisel dropped from a bench .! But for high traffic areas Used- Laminate flooring.! Is the way to go, so long as you keep it clean and don’t wear your slippy shoes.!!! Self adhesive vinyl makes for easy repairs. But is expensive, congrat’s on your new less claustrophobic contemplation area ( Makita dab radio keeps me sane.!! )👍❤️💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
In think you went about it the best way. I was thinking about plaster board but I was worried I would ruin it hanging things on the wall and swinging boards around. The floor is a back and forth in my head at the moment. I may end up laying a layer of 12 mm ply so I can floor varnish it as the OSB is a pain to sweep. A radio is a must. First I need internet though.
Getting there looks good, don't beat yourself up over the mistakes they happen to everyone
Thank you Richard. I feel like I am one workbench away from a working shop.
Wow… it’s come on a treat. I want one. Great stuff as usual. Love the honesty. ✨👏🏻✨
Thank you. Im enjoying sorting the interior out.
Mark, wonderful work! You're never going to leave the shop. Electrical, you're on your way to some major tool purchases. Very exciting! This is a splendid shop...are you about to transition into home builder? You have, certainly, taken more care than most builders would with your insulation installation. One question: wouldn't sheet rock (plaster board?) been more economical (and then you could tape and mud the seams)? Live and learn, you're doing great! Thanks for the rugby jersey in snippets.
It is a lovely place to be. A home builder is way beyond my energy levels. I have a new found respect for manual workers of any kind. It's one thing building your own workshop but another entirely picking tools up for 10 hours a day, 5 to 6 days a week. That said, I guess there are many jobs that have this kind of relentless exertion, the armed forces I would imagine is no walk in the park. You re spot on about plaster board. I was just worried that I would trash it hanging stuff on it. Not to mention that I am rubbish at the finish needed. It would certainly be a better choice for noise too. The choices are hard. But I am happy.
@@startmaking1 No matter what, you're going to enjoy it. Best of luck.
05:23 Thank god you mentioned it. That was the first think that came to mind, when I saw you cutting the stuff w/o a mask. In generell, people use mask way to rarely. Like when cleaning an old car interior with mold, painting 2k stuff, or cutting larger amounts of paper / cardboard. Always use PPE and use the correct filter on your mask. Future you will be glad you guys did!
Btw, if you record your audio in the new workshop, you might add some sound dampening to the blank walls, tho it migh get better with the rest of your stuff in it.
Either way, nice job mate. Well done!
Ha, shoukld have watched the whole video before commenting on the sound dampening. 🙃
You are so right. I have to make myself wear mine for jobs that I wouldn't think of it. Mold is so damaging. Great advice on the sound. I have fitted a few panels and once I have the ceiling lights done, I will pop a few up there and hopefully that will help.
Looks great Mark! Every mistake will have been worth it too because it’s a lesson learnt 💪💪 definitely a huge upgrade from the old shed! Looking forwards to seeing you packet it out with tools! 😍
Thank you Alex. I need to check out your new video later today.
Looks fantastic! I have been working on the ceiling and electrical of my shop this year too, it's quite a lot of work but as it's closer to the finish now I'm glad I did it.
It didn't feel like much when I was planning it but to be honest this bit, working a lot over head height, was a really eye opener.
Love the vids, thanks for the tip about decorators caulk as I also thought you could sand it! Going to use it in a DIY project soon. You have probably saved me hours of work. Also really like your honesty in the projects, we all make mistooks, its how to solve them that makes us better. Only slightly jealous of your workshop, 9/10 on envy 🙃
The novice/apprentice makes mistakes.
The journeyman knows how to conceal them. 😁✌🖖
lol. Thank you @anthonydixon4470. Much appreciated. IT was a shock to me when I read the label. I just assumed it would be gritty like no more nails .
This I like.
Looking amazing great job can’t wait to see what you do next and to see the finished product. But as I’ve said before hats off to you for doing this all by yourself 👏👏👏 great job
Thanks Jim. At least now it will be warmer in winter than the old shed.
Well done! Good luck with the new shop!
Thank you.
Great work! Would love to hear more about your thoughts on how best to organise your space. I guess we can plan these things but might just have to start using the space before you really know.
That is what comes next. Spoiler , not spoiler, French cleat. Not the most efficient but so much fun. And you are spot on, it will evolve with use. Plus I have never had the larger tools before so there will be mistakes.
we put up a 25x30 foot all metal building with a concrete floor since my wife has asthma and allergies we put in rigid Styrofoam for insulation, a 3/8 ply screwed (using pan head screws on everything) to the uprights( added 1x nail strips between the metal uprights every 4 ft) and then placed a white slick finished paneling on top think will eventually put in a suspended ceiling (12ft to rafters ) have 2 box receptacles run through plastic conduit about every 6 ft . several of them have usb jacks in them, the plywood runs horizonal and panel vertical to provide more strength. a vibrating multi tool works great to cut out wall box holes i put in cheap harbor freight 5000 lum led lights (6 on ceiling) plus several along the walls at where workbenches will be eventually got them on sale for around 15- 17 us dollars only have the south wall finished so far but all insulated but roof needs something to hold the insulation more ( just slipped 1/4 in between rafters and sheeting strips) kind of floppy in spots. love seeing how everyone else does it New ideas and easier ways!!!!
Wow, that sounds like quite the build. I wish I could have done a concrete base but access made it next to impossible.
yes and taking a while to finish off as i have Numerous other projects that i am working on (ie. water line break under out trailer house) . we put it 10 ft away from a stand alone 1 car garage i built years ago and plan to connect to the new building ( all one slope roof on garage) we had the cement run clear to the garage, and plan to put the air compressor and shop vacs in the covered breeze way eventually.. @@startmaking1
its never finished is it. I am realising this now.
Coming together well. I’m looking at your space thing my lathe gonna go their, resin over in that corner , bandsaw there …..ahhh where’s my new workshop😊
IT looks a bit bigger on camera. IT will soon fill up I am sure.
Great video again mark, starting to take sharp 👌 can’t wait for workbench 👍
Thank you Mark. I can't wait to finish the bench, not sure about the build. lol.
@@startmaking1 i bet the you can start creating 😉
Great video, thanks
Thank you very much.
Hey the interior is looking good. So much materials and hours have gone into this workshop! I am very curious about the costs.
As an amateur/hobbyist we make mistakes of course. But you can be very proud. I would have preferred the insulation on top but with height limits insulating the inside makes more sense. For cutting rockwool and other insulation you can buy insulation knifes. They are cheap and save you a second pass. Old bread knifes from your kitchen may work as well.
The cost is something I really wanted to do a video where it was so low people would be shocked but with the constraints of access etc and deciding to make it myself, it was always going to go over budget. I will lay it all out in a video and see what the comparison with a flat packed one would be. Good advice on the knives, I am trying to remember all of the good suggestions so I can include them in the last video.
I have said it before, you are to hard on yourself, I think you have done a fantastic job building this workshop. So you have made some mistakes along the way but you have taken the build on and made a brilliant job of it. I for one have been inspired to have a go myself and am planning to start in the new year. Thank you for such an honest, great channel. Keep doing what you do, it is brilliant.
Thanks Jim. Seems to be my way I guess. I can't wait to hear how you get on with your build. Im sure you will smash it.
@@startmaking1 Thanks to your videos, I hope to build a workshop I am proud of. I have learnt a lot of great tips from following your build. Looking forward to seeing how your new workbench. 😀
Your doing really well there Mark love your vids rkid
Thank you Anthony. Much appreciated.
Hi Mark, that’s a fantastic start and I can absolutely agree with your comment on the electrical sockets. There are three things I learnt putting in benches which I hope you will find useful.
Firstly, working at the height of my very heavy table saw, I made every base unit that height. It comes in really useful when trying to manage 8x4 sheet material on your own. Secondly, I created a ‘boxed’ in duct which I then used to fit the electrical sockets into in one part of the duct then in the upper part, dust extraction tubing. (I didn’t want dust collecting on corrugated tubing). Ignoring all advice from so called professionals (who state that tools go in drawers to die) I created upper cupboards with French cleat inserts to store away all my tools. By using the French cleat system you can change cupboard usage around easily until everything is where you want it. The cupboard and cleats remain in position but you can move boxes, holed shelves and anything around until you are settled. It all comes form making early mistakes but hey, that’s how we learn. Like most, I just need some more space to put………….
Thank you for the great advice. Really useful. I like the cupboard ideas and in truth I may do that as a second sweep. For the moment I have one wall dedicated to French cleat and the opposite will be cabinets at low level. I may add in upper level if the tool accumulation continues.
Ha ha, it will, now I’ve just retired I’ve started on all the things I’ve collected stuff for over the years. Just learning to turn wood. Chisels, blanks, more sanding stuff, it all mounts up. The main thing is that it’s a journey of discovery and awe. You’ll get there, anyone who can build a workshop can do the rest. Best of luck and keep going with the vids, they are informative and we all learn from each other. W
It certainly is a journey.
We have the benefit of you learning - thank you.
You are welcome.
Commenting as I watch-
Hindsight: you could have put the foam insulation against the ceiling and then ran wire across the joists to hold the rock wool from falling. Just drill holes for the wire to pass straight through and attach on either end.
“Touch wood” haha! Here in the US we say, “Knock on wood.” I’d love to know the background of that saying. I may just Google it.
The shop looks awesome! Can’t wait to see the new workbench!
Thats is a very good point. I saw Badger do that and it looked doable. My worry was that it would be way to hard on. my own. We will see how the insulation works out. I have to say that hen I finished the weather got hot and the workshop was cold. Felt good.
@@startmaking1 sounds like it worked, then!
Looks great, Mark!
Sound seems good/perfect already - no echo, no outdoor noise (no expert, so others might differ) (also, you have a full face mask on your wall - bought only after you put in the ceiling?)
Thank you. I think that the mask you see is my protective face shield for when I use the router. I do have 2 masks, one for dust and one for fumes. But they are only the standard ones covering mouth and nose. Glad the sound is not tool bad.
Looking great fella. I think your sound insulation may have been even better if you left an air gap in there as well, but how much better who knows. I’m consuming loads of workshop build and sound insulation content at the moment because I’m in the planning stages lol
Hi Dean. Hope you are well. Currently doing a bit of a binge on your content. Loving the experiments with the router table and the dust extractor. You are right about the air gap. I wont ever know for sure but once everything is done I will try and do a few sound tests to see how much seeps out. Are you planning a full on build from scratch or a refit on what you have. It looks like a large space already.
Hey Dean. I think you were talking about moving to a new property in one of your last videos. Do you need a new workshop?
@@startmaking1 we’re waiting on the OK from the lender and then hopefully buying and moving in ideally this side of Christmas. I’ll be having to build one from scratch though, I don’t think the stuff I have will be workable in a normal tiny single garage lol
@@chimairanl9043 I will do when we move yes, scary stuff!
I am looking forward to seeing what you do. Sounds exciting, and a lot of work. Great for content though.
I know you want your workspace to look good for the camera but your shed is better decorated than parts of my house!
Great job, Mark. I was surprised how little wall cleating you had up… I’m finding my french cleat system is probably the most useful thing I’ve done to make tools accessible (and remember sometimes that I have them). As I’m adding more clamps (cos you can never have too many clamps, right?) I’m finding that I need more space for more cleats. I look forward to seeing your workspace develop.
"but your shed is better decorated than parts of my house!"
I can relate, but I would have to say Most. 😁✌🖖
😂
One of the down sides of making videos is I need to decorate the shop and tidy it. Both things I hate. But I like making videos so it's tricky. There will be more French cleat coming. to be honest, I put this bit up as I kept kicking my tools and was swearing a lot. I will have to put more up[ so I can film it and becasuse the more you have the more efficient it is. Cant wait to start making the holders. One of my favourite videos was doing that.
When I redo my garage into a proper workshop I’ll get you to pop over to supervise!
lol. I can tell you how to not do it. In fact moist of that is in the videos.
You forgot my advice about getting a couple of milk crates or beer crates and a plank when you board the ceiling. A Cap with a little padding is as good as a third hand when boarding ceilings. 25 years of doing them taught me that. Also it looks like you ran your boards the same way you have your joists that will emphasise any sag and agross the joists makes the structure stronger. Another tip with membrane fix down one wall and the staple down the nearest joist to center of the sheet first, the work away from that each way, it will always keep it tighter. Sockets are pia easier to just leave the wires and drill a hole to poke them through and cut the out with a multi tool after. By the way your air gap on ceiling should be roof side of insulation or your directing cold air across your ceiling boards which makes the insulation pointless. Now ive depressed you ill get me coat good luck.
You are spot on. I was torn as to which way to do it and to be honest I thought about trying to keep the air gap in the middle but then I watched a video but oakwood rooms and he explained it in a way that I realised that 100% perfect may not be attainable. Or that was my take away anyway. The one thing I was worried about is that he did not vent the gap. In truth, my holes are tiny and probably dont vent it either. I think for that reason it should be fine. The sockets are really shoddily done and that will bug me but also shows me I have improvements I can make. All in all, it is not a bad job, somewhere in the middle.
Hello, what do you mean with the Cap as third hand? A cap on your head?
@chimairanl9043. yep. You use your head for a change 😉.
Yeah, sheets, especially thin ply, should be run perpendicular to the supporting structure.; way less sage, but more importantly, structurally stronger. There are many ways to deal with the "unsupported" sheet butt joint; battens, pvc jointer, blocking (behind joint), ply tabs on the upper side of one sheet... but at the end of the day it comes down to "how finicky do I want to be?" and "who am Itrying to impress?" If the answer to the last question is "just me", then you have a clear winner.
@@startmaking1With air flow on the top of your ply ceiling it will keep your ply cold and warm moist air from you will be inclined to compensate on that ply. If i remember you closed off your joists on the plates which stopped airflow. You can get plastic fly guarded 1x1inch pieces to top off those pieces which allow air flow but stop pests. And then round plastic air vents in soffit to complete the airflow.
Other than the door, how do you intend to ventilate when you apply finishes and adhesives with fumes? You do at least have a big fan, right?
So far I have really only ever applied my finish in the summer months as that is when I have the time to make stuff. It is an interesting question. My plan was to try it with the doors open and see how it goes. the heater on the workshop with all the insulation manages to get it up to a good heat with the doors open which is surprising. Though, long term I may need to plumb an extractor of sorts.
The workshop looks great, what a fantastic space! One concern I do have however is putting the roof insulation tight against the roof sheeting with the air gap below. The air gap will allow cold air into the void as it should, but this will now be in direct contact with the plywood sheeting inside, which somewhat defeats the point of insulating the roof as it’s now not doing anything in terms of thermal efficiency. It will still help reduce sound transfer but not much since any sound will just escape through the air gap. From my understanding the air gap needs to be above the insulation for those reasons, primarily heat insulation. Interested in your thoughts. I’m sure it will be just fine though, after all it is a workshop not a house! Keep up the good work
You are spot on. I was torn as to which way to do it and to be honest I thought about trying to keep the air gap in the middle but then I watched a video but oakwood rooms and he explained it in a way that I realised that 100% perfect may not be attainable. Or that was my take away anyway. The one thing I was worried about is that he did not vent the gap. In truth, my holes are tiny and probably dont vent it either. I think for that reason it should be fine. Time will tell. But thank you for reaching out. Like you say, Im not living in it. Well not until the cost video gets seen, then I may be kicked out into it
Great videos lots of useful information but not heard you say what size the workshop is would like to know 👍
Thank you. It is 16 feet by 12.
Looking great Mark. Hiring a board lift would of helped with the ceiling
Oh goodness yes. That and another few people. And a decorator as the paint job is pretty shabby lol.
very inspiring work, how big is the inside area space? greetings from germany
Hi. Thank you very much. The interior is approximately 4.8m by 3.6m give or take a cm here or there
Hi Mark, great job and very informative video. I want to insulate my summer house, but I can't decide between PIR boards and Rockwool mineral wool. It would be easier and quicker to install Rockwool wool, especially in tight spaces, around wires, etc., but PIR boards offer better thermal insulation. Is your workshop warm enough, and would you insulate it with PIR boards instead if you had to do it again? Thanks
Mine is really well insulated. Maybe a little too much but it is hard to tell as I dont have windows that open. You see, in summer it is cold when I enter, like really cold but once it warms up it stays warm until late at night. And in the winter it can often still be warm from the day before . So it is a blessing in the winter but annoying in the summer . But then I have a lot of studio lights and they kick out so much warmth. Sorry to be confusing.
Thanks for sharing your build and the thoughts behind it. I'll be interested to see how warm in winter / cool in summer it proves to be. I insulated a wooden shed for pottery making and was worried about keeping the structure breathable with all that wet working inside. I used a multifoil breather membrane with air gaps both sides. So far so good. I guess your walls would be breathable if you hadn't put plastic behind the inner surface? Next project is the woodshop shed because I'm fed up with all my tools rusting in the damp. Different set of problems. I assume part L building regs don't apply to sheds?
I may take some temps. Today it was 4 degrees outside for a while and the inside was bearable without a heater but any colder I think it would soon get too cold inside. I have no clue about building regs if I am honest.
I think you gave yourself an awful lot of work putting your electrics in the wall as you found out having to match openings with back boxes getting the vapour barrier sealed around them etc. As you said it is a workshop and a bit of an industrial look to it is not going to spoil the look. In my garage/workshop with attached mancave/garden office I simply ran 50 X 50 PVC trunking around at ceiling height, where I needed sockets and switches I simply attached PVC conduit between back box and trunking. This is a very flexible system allowing easy placement of additional sockets as the needs require and it all looks quite neat and professional.
I agree. It is common over here in shops/garages to have the electrics just completely on top of the wall. Sockets, switches and lines. Makes it very flexible as well.
IT was a tricky decision and for pure practicality you are spot on. I built this as a kind of investment on the house though and pictured someone making it into a home office or gym etc. And they could cope I am sure with external plug sockets but I wanted to do it as well as I could. But overall you are right. And actually with exposed pipe I think it would look really cool. Kind of industrial.
I’m at the same stage as this video with my own workshop build. I’m a novice and have done the same as yourself taking inspiration from various pro’s on UA-cam. I went for a traditional cold roof for simplicity. Please don’t take this as criticism as I don’t know the correct answer but surely your air gap (which is ventilated) means you’ve made a cold spot on what should be the warm side of the insulation…so negating the effect of all that insulation that’s in contact with the cold side of the roof. If you’re going for a Oakwood style ‘hybrid’ roof then that gap shouldn’t be ventilated. Anyway, not trying to be negative as the workshop is bloody fantastic. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed this series and laughed along the way as I made very similar mistakes which is par for the course when it’s your first attempt at a huge project like this. I’m having all the electrics surface mounted as I’m not fussed about it looking pretty so I have the option to make changes down the road if my socket locations don’t work out.
Chris, I think you have made better choices than me bud. The air gap ventilation will have to be blocked. No big deal and to be honest there will probably be very little air flow as the gaps are so small. I re watched oakwood and he doesn't ventilated your re right. All good. Also the surface mounting is far simpler and more versatile. Again, you have made a better choice here. Not that I really regret it but I may down the line. Time will tell. Well done for getting to this stage. Its not easy.,
@@startmaking1 sealing up those ventilation holes sounds sounds a great solution…and a simple one. I have made so many silly mistakes on my build because I literally can’t think ahead when I’ve not got the required experience. Obviously I would do it different if I built another one but I don’t plan to so it’ll have to be as it is.
Looking forward to your future projects in the new workshop! 👍
Mark, if anytime later you should like to add or reposition any of your lighting, remember track lighting. With today's LEDs, you can put a whoooole lot of lighting in there, with very little power and exactly where you want it. 😁✌🖖
I really enjoy your advice. Really well thought out and we are on a similar wave length. I was even considering t track at one point on the ceiling.
@@startmaking1: As I read your reply, I also thought about LED cove lighting? NO! Great in the house but Not in the dusty shop. Too bad, because it Would be great, if not for the dust. Oh well. 😁✌🖖
Hi, Mark. I wish I would have thought of this earlier. For marking sheet materials, for cutting or whatever, you can't beat a drywaller's T-square.
It is a 48" (in the US) aluminium T-square. Check it out.
P.S.: For filling over the screws, in the plywood walls, you might have tried lightweight
drywall patch/filler. It doesn't need sanding. Cheap experiment.
For wood projects and repairs, definitely wood filler. 😁✌🖖
You know, I have one somewhere. I just packed it away while I was building lol. I think I am already regretting filling over the screws as there is bound to be a time I need to replace a panel. Oh well.
Doesn't venting directly above the ceiling remove the very advantages you're seeking by using insulation in the first place?
Wouldn't you use a reflective type insulation immediately below the roof cladding (such as your foil lined insulation), then ventilate the roof space below that, then put a fluffy type insulation (like rock wool) immediately above the ceiling?
Otherwise you end up with moving air above your ceiling, and the whole point of insulation is to stop the air moving (and thereby stop (or at least slow) convection currents) to trap heat.
You are spot on but it should be alright as I am not losing to much heat it seems. I was a bit held back by worrying about the Rockwool falling out if I didn't manage to complete in a day. But overall it is not too bad.
@@startmaking1 There was absolutely no need to drill holes to try to ventilate that air gap between the insulation and the plywood - the air gap is on the warm side, it will never get mould and shouldn't ever have condensation issues. By ventilating that gap you have severely reduced the effectiveness of the insulation. This type of hybrid roof construction is fine for low occupancy buildings such as this, and so long as you have not left an air gap on the cold side it does not need ventilating - ventilating the air gap on the warm side is pointless (and severely detrimental to the effectiveness of the insulation)
@blower1 yes you are right. As I replied above. Hasn't done any harm though fortunately.
@@startmaking1 Yes, sorry i can see on your later costings video you acknowledged this. Never mind, live and learn - my first workshop i made far bigger mistakes!
@@blower1 it's all good. I learnt so much from comments like this.
Might be be too late now but I’d seriously consider weighing up a jobsite saw / bench combo thing vs a proper cabinet saw and a workbench/out feed table. Your bench might have to be smaller but I think you’ll get a better end result and you’ll probably find if you get a contractors saw you’ll want to upgrade to a cabinet saw, they’re insanely loud and generally a bit underpowered for ripping thicker boards.
You can regularly pick up an old wadkin ags10 that needs a bit of work for the same price as a decent contractors saw.
Sadly, I have already bought the contractor Dewalt and have just heard that it is mega loud. I am yet to open it and test it but I have been thinking about extra layers of sound proofing as a result. If it gets a lot of complaints I may have to take the hit, sell it and get a quieter cabinet saw. Of well. Typical me .
Don't worry about the noise, people are comparing it to a table saw. It's more than a plug in circular saw, but you'll get used to it. I bought the DeWalt 7491 RS and absolutely love it. Just wait until you see, and move the fence on your new saw. You'll be in heaven. Perfect cuts every time, forever. It's amazing.@@startmaking1
I'm looking forward seeing your workbench build! Will you integrate router in it? I've seen many doing that with great result.
I am sorely tempted. Not my trim router but maybe a larger model. The only issue that I have is budget. I am planning on getting a table saw for it and that is not cheap. After building the workshop it feels sensible to keep the videos in line with the channel., ie beginner to low intermediate as much as I want to just fill the place with cool tools. Tough choices.
Looks really good!! What are you going to do about heating in the winter? :)
So far, I have a small oil filled radiator in the middle of the room. takes approx 90 mins to go from 3 degrees c to 10 to 14 from experience. I think I may get a second and that should do it.
lookin good mark you've done a fab job on your new workshop must have cost you thousands lol😁
Thanks but. I went belt and braces and that comes at a cost. I'll let you know how much in the next one.
Great job
Thank you
Looking good mate. Although your making me wonder if I've caused myself future issues by just having Rockwool in my rafters covered by 6mm ply 😟
Dont take my word for it . Probably it will be fine. Not a lot of moisture being caused unless you are sleeping in there or taking a bath.
Lol only the occasional shower 😃 hopefully it's okay, there's also a small dehumidifier which runs every night
Im sure it will be fine. though, Ive proved all summer that I am no expert lol.
@@startmaking1 you're doing fine. It's great to watch these experts making pieces of five furniture but it's also great to watch you do something more similar to our level 😃 hopefully that's not offensive 😂
That's a fantastic job. I'm going retro fit insulation in my shed but it'll be nowhere near as comprehensive as your job. Must have been very expensive.
IT was the pricey way to go but I really dont want any noise complaints if I can help it. There are a bunch of cheaper alternatives.
Great work! But isn't there risk of damp on the flat wood layer of the roof since it's got no air flow to it?
Thank you. Not sure which bit you mean. Do you mean the OSB right under the rubber, or the ply ceiling?
@@startmaking1
The Timber roof deck, it can be seen at 8:02. In the image it shows that it has ventilation directly below it. But the way you have done it doesn't, you have moved the airgap to be under the insulation. My question and worry is that the timber of the roof deck may get damp because it's not part of the ventilation. But maybe that's not an issue, I'm not sure. Anyway good video!
You are spot on. I was torn as to which way to do it and to be honest I thought about trying to keep the air gap in the middle but then I watched a video but oakwood rooms and he explained it in a way that I realised that 100% perfect may not be attainable. Or that was my take away anyway. The one thing I was worried about is that he did not vent the gap. In truth, my holes are tiny and probably dont vent it either. I think for that reason it should be fine. Time will tell.
@@startmaking1 I think it's important to know a lot of people questioned his roofing approach. Check out a guy called Steve roofer if you want to see it done correctly.
That's a tidy job mate. Ok the experts can pick holes in any job....they pick holes in each others work 🙄......but if you're happy with your efforts then well done 👏🏻
Well said and thank you.
How much did the whole thing cost?
There is a full cost breakdown video but it came in around £11k.
Don't believe his lies at 15:25 - that's a jigsaw, not a circular saw!
Just kidding around, you've done a great job so far!
So true. That jigsaw made it through around half the sockets and even with it I made such a terrible job. Thank you ,
A great effort but my personal opinion is there are quite a few building details wrong, base and roof in particular. I accept a lot of this is due to the 2.5m rule, you most likely needed a higher ceiling for filming. I am not meaning to have a go at you atall over it, just wanted to say that the fundamentals are you need a lot of airflow with the base plus there is no such thing as a hybrid roof, only hot or cold roof. People can make their choices but a great resource is the Ali Dymock build in terms of best practice. As long as people make informed choices it's all good. Anyway well done and I look forward to some woodworking projects!
I bet you are right. I tried to get as much space as possible . Partly for filming but also for the next people who may utilise the space for their needs. And dont worry all criticism is welcome. I have learnt through the build in the comments section. The base is a little low but with the overhangs there is very little water that passes under it and so long as I clear any debris the air can flow freely under the building with ease. I would have liked another 15mm or so but any more and I would have struggled to keep below the height. The hybrid roof idea came from oakwood garden rooms video. I watched and in fact credited Ali for his range of videos, an amazing source and in truth it is the reason I always say that this is not a how to. His is a how to. I like the idea and the explanation that Oakwood garden rooms puts for their hybrid roof. I plan to block the ventilation for the air gap if the room struggles to retain heat. I am looking forward ti staying in my lane and just making some wood shavings if I am honest. I can only hope that this series shows people that it is possible to do more than you think you can . But also that they should visit people like ALI DYMOCK and use his expertise.
Like other commenters I think you have not got the cold roof / warm roof correct. But having said that I suspect it may not be a problem. The reason it may not be a problem is because this is not likely to be a humid environment like a house, with cooking and bathing generating water vapour. Don’t forget some types of heating will generate water vapour, like Kerosene or LPG (unless it’s room sealed. I can provide more info if you don’t understand the term ‘room sealed’ ).
Yeah I agree. It is not right but I dont think that the air flow will be enough to take out all of the warmth. And as you say, Im not making a lot of moisture in there. I was planning on just having an oil filled radiator in there. Just for when I am in the workshop. I dont really mind the cold all that much.
"At certain angles you can see it's no quite lined up.." If you don't tell anyone, nearly all (99% +?) won't notice... but hay, it's a workshop built for purpose!
As for accoustics and reverberation: one solution is to use perforated sheet material (such as plywood with holes at 8 to 10mm grid (commercially availiable) or throw in an oversized horse-hair stuffed couch or furnishing(s) that has mass that deadens sound (as my accoustic lecturer at architecture school recommended as the most cost effect solution foe unwanted reverberation in a small space).
Note to shelf ~ in THoW build, consider perforated ply to ceiling (holes will reduce O/A weight but not affect strucuratal integrety)
That said, 1% break in the acoustice barrier = >95%+ noise transmition. As an architect who has designed acoustic floors, walls, ceilings, doors, penetrations... etc for cinemas, it's not an insignificant problem, though it is a problem that has solutions, though allcome with budgetary constrants.
Wow, Great detailed comment. Thank you very much for sharing.
Wow Mark, looking good…. The workshop not you.😂 Many congrats on a great job.
Are you staying with Makita for your tablesaw?
Lol thank you Peter. you know, I wanted to stick with Makita on one hand. But then I thought, why? The only reason I stick to them for hand held cordless is the battery platform. The tools are pretty good but then again I have never tried anything else really. No, I am about to pull the trigger on the overpriced Dewalt. Only because of the fence. I always promised myself that when I got the workshop finished I would treat myself to a top of the line table saw. Trouble is a cabinet saw is not in line with the channel. I would struggle to keep it relevant. So job site saw it is and the Dewalt has the best reviews in my opinion even if it is nearly double what it was for the same saw 2 years ago. Must be a popularity thing. I was tempted by evolution and was offered a sponsored one but the channel cannot become a freebee channel with too many free tools.
@@startmaking1 understand, I just got the Makita 2704N 260mm. Only used it a few times but seems a Nice bit of kit.
So we will soon be getting all your tricks and sledge builds…… I hope.👍
Looking forward to the workbench build, I hope you will be making a cut list as well as a full materials list.
Cheers.
I am not sure what I am most nervous about, making the bench or learning sketch up for a cut list etc.
@@startmaking1 Hey you know we are all behind you and Im sure you will do a great job.
Also if it all goes tits up…. We will learn what not to do so…. All good.
Have a great weekend.
Thanks Peter.
That roof makes no sense. It's not going to keep any heat in f the air gap is below it as it'll just escape. The air gap needs above the insulation - i.e. between that and the OSB roof. I reckon you'll be spending a lot more to heat it as most warmth escapes up as it rises.
You are right and in the costings video I explained the error. To be honest though it made so little difference in the winter as far as I can tell. And as it is not a place where people live, I will leave it be for a bit and if necessary fix later.
Don’t know why timber sheds/workshops can’t have light roofs to stop overheating during summer
That is beyond my expertise sadly.
Good job however your walls are not breathable, any moisture that gets trapped in there is staying and causing rotting. Outside didn’t need the osb, it should have been membrane on the frame, battens for an air gap then cladding on battens
so far no issues but thank you for your feedback.
It's like you say it : WORKshop so who cares ? Except yourself maybe . 😁😁✌✌
You are spot on.
That insulation must have cost a fortune.Pensioner like me will rather pass GO! 😊
Thanks but. I went belt and braces and that comes at a cost. I'll let you know how much in the next one.
Thanks Mate
And ofcourse,being in South Africa the Rand has no value
Bummer on the table saw. Radial arm saw is a LOT more useful.
They look awesome but terrifying.
Thermal insulation is the reverse of acoustic insulation. For deaden sound you need density/mass, not air gaps. Rockwool will achieve almost nothing when it comes to preventing noise escaping.
Oh really. Is that correct. I am confused as I was watching how to make acoustic panels and they absorb sounds. They use a wide weave cloth on the outside to let the sound through and then wooden insulation inside to absorb the sound. This is why I went for Rockwool over foam boards in the walls. The air gap is because the sound waves travel directly between solid objects and an air gap stops that. Maybe I have it wrong.
The workshop is looking really good. :)
Looking forward to the workbench build to see what route you take with it.
Got a couple of suggestions that might help.
ua-cam.com/video/lvEVWRh20Nk/v-deo.html that vid might help you with designing the layout. I use tinkercad quite a bit and like how simple it is to use.
Secondly, having the infeed and outfeed sections for the table saw detachable and movable might be handy so that you can work with large wood sheets a lot easier.
I love getting a link. Thank you. I can check it out and know it will be super useful. I need a simple program if I am ever going to plan stuff. Not the brightest on a PC. My plan for the table is to integrate the saw into the table completely so the outfeed side is the construction part of the table. I have been back and forth on this a lot as I would have like to be able to take it all apart. But then I saw that you can't buy the table saw I want without a stand on wheels so I figure if I need to take it out of the table I can and move it like that. I honestly dont know what is best and my. mind changes almost daily.
The battening seems unnecessary for a workshop, every time you mount something to the wall or ceiling they’ll likely get in the way. Learned a lot though otherwise
Continued watching and saw your reasoning - you want it to be smart for your videos. Fair enough!
Love that it kind of made sense. In truth you are spot on and since this it has got in the way but I still like the aesthetics on camera. Appreciate the comment.
@@startmaking1no bother, was going to delete when I realised but thought every comment helps for your growth. Good luck!
That insulation gets right to the back of your throat if not wearing a mask
You are so right.
M8 bravo 👏👏👏 that is looking amazing and avout to order table saw??🤔🤔🙄 Ok. We'll see. Honestly though shop is looking amazing loving the cleat wall. Still think needs a pallet slat wall will give u options to put things onto. A revkon u need find the website dainer used or the one u did and batch out some those boxes for storage parts. Looks phenomenal cant wait see what you do in it. Ps nowt wrong with anything about that video. 📨 Will expand over there 🏴👍
Thank you Mike. Pallets are waiting to be stripped. Then I will see if it looks ok. I may need 100 of those boxes by the time I am done. So many bits and bobs building up all over the workshop. Appreciate the feedback too. Thank you
@@startmaking1 yea a no the feeling from what can remember aswell as other bits and bobs I've found here plus few things wanna organise bit better gonna need make whole load storage.