Thanks, everyone, for your comments. Regarding soil tests, I recommend sending your soil to an independent lab that provides recommendations for organic growers and doesn't sell fertilisers. They will let you know how to collect the samples. Soil tests aren't available to everyone. In dry climates, organic materials for mulch and compost are often scarce. In these situations, food gardeners and farmers use this eco-logical approach by concentrating on steps 3 and 4. They design ways to grow more plant biomass when the rains come, recognising that our soils have degraded over the years because we have concentrated on growing plants to feed us and our livestock and neglected our soil organisms! In this video, we look at ways to increase plant biomass in vegetable gardens: ua-cam.com/video/e8fjhflsrII/v-deo.html. You may also like to get a copy of our Gardeners or Farmers Build Healthy Soil Handbook, which details methods for vegetable gardens, orchards, fields, and different climates (links in the video description).
Great video. A great way to increase mulch is to cut ion situ grass at the highest mower setting with mulcher blade. It will regrow faster when left taller. Worms will do the rest. Brambles are the best soil improver I've seen - they decompress and feed the soil to a smooth chocolate mousse consistency.
I don’t agree with the soil testing. Our soil wouldn’t grow anything on arrival. We just plant and plant and plant perennials especially fruit trees. A lot of mulch trees ( perennial plants) 3 years later our food forests are thriving. The Rhizosphere takes care of any PH problem. You need to check out the latest science. Acidic loving plants can grow in alkaline soil. The Rhizosphere collects the nutrients needed for acidic plants like blueberries. I don’t waste money on anything.
Exactly what I'm doing, planted dozens of perennials trees and bushes that are drought resistant, lots of biomass and pruning 2 times a year, the changes are incredible, from a almost barren soil to having worms and all kinds of microorganisms, and now I can put one finger in the soil without breaking my nails, next year will start with the fruit trees/bushes.
@ honestly the sooner u put the fruit trees in the better. If you can grow bananas they are the secret. Contrary to everything UA-cam says, they aren’t big feeders and transform the soil in months. We went from 9 almost dead brown banana plants to 300 stations with 3 at each in 3 years .Once established we don’t really feed them, just their own leaves. Maybe a bit of chop and drop .
@chessman and @wildalentejo thanks for sharing your experiences with using and managing plants to build healthy soil! Bananas are an excellent tool for subtropical and tropical climates. In principle, whatever our climate, our best option is to concentrate initially on using whatever fast-growing biomass-producing plants will do well in our growing conditions. RE Soil Testing I recognise that for many people soil testing isn't an option (see my comment above). However, if we can get our soil tested to identify nutrient deficiencies - applying the recommended minerals can help turbo-charge our plant growth. For example, I had huge problems with my calcium-magnesium ratio when I first started establishing my agroforestry systems. The soil was like concrete during the 6-8 months of dry season. I ran some trials, and applying gypsum increased plant biomass production.
@@chessman483I live in a semi-arid region with scorching 45°C summers, 8-9 months without rain, and occasional winter freezes. Fruit trees require a lot of energy to thrive, so my priority is first to build up the energy and fertility in the soil with drought tolerant species. Once the soil is healthy and balanced, the fruit trees and bushes will have a much better chance to flourish.
@ sounds identical to our climate. Except our droughts start in Autumn until December. I just grew a pigeon pea and mulberry trees for living roots and shade . Grow Canna Lillie’s and QLD arrowroot for more living roots and mulch , mulch and more mulch. Have approximately 500 pigeon peas from day one and about the same in QLD arrowroot or Canna Lillie’s they all grow ok and with multiple other perennials in the ground which grow like weeds things have just got easier every day. Perennial basil for eg grows well in scorching temperatures as long as I get it established before it’s baking in 40 degree days. Heaps of other common sense things enable things to grow in hot temperatures.
wonderful...a suggestion - you say 4 things so stick to that and not say what made the difference is the amount of plant biomass + diversity. no, your soil would not have worked if you had not done soil mineral balancing particularly - adjusted your calcium to magnesium ratio. if they have done soil mineral balancing, they can plant anything and everything to their heart's content.... people will overlook that part if you say...sure, there are magical instances when people plant lots and diverse food plants without soil tests but these are rare. btw, LOGAN LABS is very good and they accept soils from outside the U.S. - $50 USD...mygreathanks and blessings😇
Paul thanks for sharing your thoughts on the value of soil mineral balancing! I do think that we can build healthy soil and functioning agroecosystems without applying external inputs to tackle issues with our soil - as demonstrated by natural succession and the many people around the world successfully restoring severely degraded lands. But if we can access and/or afford a soil test it makes sense to get the information and use the recommendations to help kick-start plant biomass production.
@@LearningfromNature wonderful. indeed healthy soil can be attained without external inputs dear except it takes time, not a year or even 2 years if one goes that route. i am particularly concerned with gardens or even community farms. you kind of need immediate success there. nutrient-density is most easily achieved with soil test dictated soil mineral balancing and then pushed to heights by biological practices...blessings
Africa is poor, no money for soil tests, very little mulch around, pull weeds and cut off root and put on top as mulch, wind blows it away, but I will just put on more as it becomes available. Trying to plant more in the square foot method in my back yard, started a food forest in my front yard. Just going on a wing and a prayer. Dug a trench to catch water from my gutter to stop the water and get it into the soil. Moles also a problem as they make heaps inside the trench stopping water flow in the wrong places. Eventually it will be all right.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Please see my comment above focusing on steps 3 - 4 if soil testing isn't an option and organic materials for mulch and compost are scarce. Growing plants densely in your back yard is great especially if you can maximise the growth and chopping-and-dropping the biomass, when you get rain. Can you grow extra layers of vegetation like you are doing in your front garden food forest? Try though to leave plant roots in your soil to feed your soil organisms and improve drainage, rather than pulling them out. Have you had the chance to watch this video about drought-proofing using plants? - ua-cam.com/video/YcCHd7dkDCg/v-deo.htmlsi=6I0utDeOtpadgiWo
Thanks, everyone, for your comments. Regarding soil tests, I recommend sending your soil to an independent lab that provides recommendations for organic growers and doesn't sell fertilisers. They will let you know how to collect the samples.
Soil tests aren't available to everyone. In dry climates, organic materials for mulch and compost are often scarce. In these situations, food gardeners and farmers use this eco-logical approach by concentrating on steps 3 and 4. They design ways to grow more plant biomass when the rains come, recognising that our soils have degraded over the years because we have concentrated on growing plants to feed us and our livestock and neglected our soil organisms!
In this video, we look at ways to increase plant biomass in vegetable gardens: ua-cam.com/video/e8fjhflsrII/v-deo.html. You may also like to get a copy of our Gardeners or Farmers Build Healthy Soil Handbook, which details methods for vegetable gardens, orchards, fields, and different climates (links in the video description).
Great video. A great way to increase mulch is to cut ion situ grass at the highest mower setting with mulcher blade. It will regrow faster when left taller. Worms will do the rest. Brambles are the best soil improver I've seen - they decompress and feed the soil to a smooth chocolate mousse consistency.
Thanks for sharing the information about mower settings and your interesting observation about brambles!
I don’t agree with the soil testing. Our soil wouldn’t grow anything on arrival. We just plant and plant and plant perennials especially fruit trees. A lot of mulch trees ( perennial plants) 3 years later our food forests are thriving. The Rhizosphere takes care of any PH problem. You need to check out the latest science. Acidic loving plants can grow in alkaline soil. The Rhizosphere collects the nutrients needed for acidic plants like blueberries. I don’t waste money on anything.
Exactly what I'm doing, planted dozens of perennials trees and bushes that are drought resistant, lots of biomass and pruning 2 times a year, the changes are incredible, from a almost barren soil to having worms and all kinds of microorganisms, and now I can put one finger in the soil without breaking my nails, next year will start with the fruit trees/bushes.
@ honestly the sooner u put the fruit trees in the better. If you can grow bananas they are the secret. Contrary to everything UA-cam says, they aren’t big feeders and transform the soil in months. We went from 9 almost dead brown banana plants to 300 stations with 3 at each in 3 years .Once established we don’t really feed them, just their own leaves. Maybe a bit of chop and drop .
@chessman and @wildalentejo thanks for sharing your experiences with using and managing plants to build healthy soil!
Bananas are an excellent tool for subtropical and tropical climates. In principle, whatever our climate, our best option is to concentrate initially on using whatever fast-growing biomass-producing plants will do well in our growing conditions.
RE Soil Testing
I recognise that for many people soil testing isn't an option (see my comment above). However, if we can get our soil tested to identify nutrient deficiencies - applying the recommended minerals can help turbo-charge our plant growth.
For example, I had huge problems with my calcium-magnesium ratio when I first started establishing my agroforestry systems. The soil was like concrete during the 6-8 months of dry season. I ran some trials, and applying gypsum increased plant biomass production.
@@chessman483I live in a semi-arid region with scorching 45°C summers, 8-9 months without rain, and occasional winter freezes. Fruit trees require a lot of energy to thrive, so my priority is first to build up the energy and fertility in the soil with drought tolerant species. Once the soil is healthy and balanced, the fruit trees and bushes will have a much better chance to flourish.
@ sounds identical to our climate. Except our droughts start in Autumn until December. I just grew a pigeon pea and mulberry trees for living roots and shade . Grow Canna Lillie’s and QLD arrowroot for more living roots and mulch , mulch and more mulch. Have approximately 500 pigeon peas from day one and about the same in QLD arrowroot or Canna Lillie’s they all grow ok and with multiple other perennials in the ground which grow like weeds things have just got easier every day. Perennial basil for eg grows well in scorching temperatures as long as I get it established before it’s baking in 40 degree days. Heaps of other common sense things enable things to grow in hot temperatures.
Thank you for another interesting video
Thank you for your support!
👍
wonderful...a suggestion - you say 4 things so stick to that and not say what made the difference is the amount of plant biomass + diversity. no, your soil would not have worked if you had not done soil mineral balancing particularly - adjusted your calcium to magnesium ratio. if they have done soil mineral balancing, they can plant anything and everything to their heart's content.... people will overlook that part if you say...sure, there are magical instances when people plant lots and diverse food plants without soil tests but these are rare. btw, LOGAN LABS is very good and they accept soils from outside the U.S. - $50 USD...mygreathanks and blessings😇
Paul thanks for sharing your thoughts on the value of soil mineral balancing!
I do think that we can build healthy soil and functioning agroecosystems without applying external inputs to tackle issues with our soil - as demonstrated by natural succession and the many people around the world successfully restoring severely degraded lands. But if we can access and/or afford a soil test it makes sense to get the information and use the recommendations to help kick-start plant biomass production.
@@LearningfromNature wonderful. indeed healthy soil can be attained without external inputs dear except it takes time, not a year or even 2 years if one goes that route. i am particularly concerned with gardens or even community farms. you kind of need immediate success there. nutrient-density is most easily achieved with soil test dictated soil mineral balancing and then pushed to heights by biological practices...blessings
$200 for a soil test? What? I can go to my local University of Kentucky Cooperative office and get one for about $25.
That's great! In Australia, they cost between AU$150 -200. See my pinned comment about soil tests above.
@@LearningfromNature Soil tests are very important! It is a great first step for beginners. No doubt!
Africa is poor, no money for soil tests, very little mulch around, pull weeds and cut off root and put on top as mulch, wind blows it away, but I will just put on more as it becomes available. Trying to plant more in the square foot method in my back yard, started a food forest in my front yard. Just going on a wing and a prayer. Dug a trench to catch water from my gutter to stop the water and get it into the soil. Moles also a problem as they make heaps inside the trench stopping water flow in the wrong places. Eventually it will be all right.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Please see my comment above focusing on steps 3 - 4 if soil testing isn't an option and organic materials for mulch and compost are scarce. Growing plants densely in your back yard is great especially if you can maximise the growth and chopping-and-dropping the biomass, when you get rain. Can you grow extra layers of vegetation like you are doing in your front garden food forest? Try though to leave plant roots in your soil to feed your soil organisms and improve drainage, rather than pulling them out.
Have you had the chance to watch this video about drought-proofing using plants? - ua-cam.com/video/YcCHd7dkDCg/v-deo.htmlsi=6I0utDeOtpadgiWo