I didnt use any heat on the first race, i barely got it to break free, the second one i put some heat on it and just a few taps and it came right off, had my 10 ton press to put new ones on like butter, thanks for the video sir
Great video. I grew up doing this when rebuilding axels. You can get the pipe longer than your axel then thread an end cap on it. Helps when hammering away on it so the end doesn’t flair out.
@@ifixmycarmyself2502 tack det gick jättebra har nu konverterat till kapslade lager, dock la jag mina låsringar på spisplatta innan jag satte dit dem det gick mycket enklare då samt jag pressade på mina lager.
Yes, was hoping so, especially fir those who has not access to a press. The pipe is 42mm internal dismeter, 48 mm external diameter and almost 800 mm long. Not sure about measure in inches :)
1 1/4 “ id 1 1/2 “od , 31 1/2 “ length. google is your friend lol. Thank you very much . i’ve been looking for a way to avoid buying a floor press. This is very helpful!
@@340dave6 I worked as a mechanic some 30 years ago and belive it or not this was a method some of the guys used although there was a press and tools there. An oxy/acetylene is of course more effective than propane torch but i wanted to do it in the most simple way i could.
Hey if your axle shaft seal was leaking, its usually caused by the seal retaining plate being bent on the seals surface. Heat up the plate with torch lightly and set retaining plate on table after removing bearing and lock collar ring and lightly tap the rim surface of plate with a small flat sludge until its flate all the way around rim. Change bearings and seals and locking collars and you wont have another Axle leak! But if your plate is slightly bent and you reuse plate without straightening the rim, you can get leaks just 2-4 months after replacing bearings.
Thank you for good advices. In this particular case a new retainer plate comes with the bearing and the sealer is inside the bearing. But I totally get what you meen. Thanks again!
Thank you for this comment. For sure a good method. At my place it would come to the negotiation wether the freezer is available as garage equipmen. But of course, over night could be a solutio 😁
Quote from the Chrysler factory service manual (1971): "CAUTION: Under no circumstances should axle shaft collars or bearings be removed using a torch. The use of a torch in the removal of axle shaft collars or bearings is an unsafe practice, because heat is fed into the axle shaft bearing journal and thereby weakens this area." To safely remove the collar(never re-use them) simply drill 2 or 3 holes across the outside face of it and then use a cold chisel to split the collar. The collar is what stops the axle from exiting the rear axle assembly with drum, tire and all in tow; always replace it. Your bearing should come with a new one.
Luckily this is a 1970 axle :) just joking. When we deal with old stuff that is stuck or rusted, which they never had to do when they wrote the service manual, we usually have to go beyond the manual. In general I agree with the manual but as long as we heat things and are careful to not overheat things, change color, turning blue or purple, affecting hardening or tempering we should be on the safe side. I have seen plenty of other metods like drilling or using an angle grinder leaving nasty damages in the axle wich are perhaps even worse. In this particular video I wanted to show how to remove the collar in one piece without having access to drill or angle grinder. The same with the bearing roller basket. The struggle removing the bearing that way makes it possible to use the bearing rings for other jobs in the press or whenever they could come handy :) I'm awere that there is a special tool for just about everything you can do on a car but In the video serie Ifixmycarmyself I always try to show how we can fix things without half a million $ wort of tools, just like the average garage guy situation and perhaps does'n even have a sevice manual. That is the basic principle for the wole channel. Thank you for your comment!
The amount of heat he is putting into the bearing race, with what appears to be a propane torch, will not harm the axle. The FSM is likely referring to oxy-acetylene, which does create enough heat to harm metallurgy.
Haha, don’t worry, these particular bearings are ball bearing and the bearing retainer slides over the bearing and a locking ring fits in a groove on the outer bearing ring and will keep the bearing and retainer in place. But if it was a conical bearing I would for sure share your concern :)
@@Titan-dm2mo in the past I have used a cutting torch . Just enough to blast a groove without penetrating into the shaft. Sounds difficult but easier than you think. I have used cutting discs and carbide burrs. The race is so hard that all you need is a start and it will fracture very easily and slide off.
Yes Your perfectly right. Here I go through a tideous process just because I wanted to show it can be done with only simple hand-tool and the other reason was that I wanted to save the bearing races, for whatever hackjob the will com handy for, who knows :)
I didnt use any heat on the first race, i barely got it to break free, the second one i put some heat on it and just a few taps and it came right off, had my 10 ton press to put new ones on like butter, thanks for the video sir
Thanks! I needed to do this job exactly like you showed it because I have no special tools.
Great video. I grew up doing this when rebuilding axels. You can get the pipe longer than your axel then thread an end cap on it. Helps when hammering away on it so the end doesn’t flair out.
best video i have seen on this...especially if you don't have a press....great job
Thank you! glad you liked it.
Awesome channel, helped me rebuild my 834 and now a 8.75 for my Barracuda!
Old school is best school
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Now it's 501 subscribers ... ♦
snyggt jobbat. jag får jättebra info av denna videon då det är precis det jag ska göra nu ! 🙂
Tack! Va roligt, hoppas det går bra!
@@ifixmycarmyself2502 tack det gick jättebra har nu konverterat till kapslade lager, dock la jag mina låsringar på spisplatta innan jag satte dit dem det gick mycket enklare då samt jag pressade på mina lager.
Great job.
Very entertaining now I know it can be done
very helpful video, about what size is that pipe you used to install the new bearings? Thanks!
Yes, was hoping so, especially fir those who has not access to a press. The pipe is 42mm internal dismeter, 48 mm external diameter and almost 800 mm long. Not sure about measure in inches :)
1 1/4 “ id 1 1/2 “od , 31 1/2 “ length. google is your friend lol. Thank you very much . i’ve been looking for a way to avoid buying a floor press. This is very helpful!
@@340dave6 I worked as a mechanic some 30 years ago and belive it or not this was a method some of the guys used although there was a press and tools there. An oxy/acetylene is of course more effective than propane torch but i wanted to do it in the most simple way i could.
excellent work!
Thank you!
Hey if your axle shaft seal was leaking, its usually caused by the seal retaining plate being bent on the seals surface. Heat up the plate with torch lightly and set retaining plate on table after removing bearing and lock collar ring and lightly tap the rim surface of plate with a small flat sludge until its flate all the way around rim.
Change bearings and seals and locking collars and you wont have another Axle leak!
But if your plate is slightly bent and you reuse plate without straightening the rim, you can get leaks just 2-4 months after replacing bearings.
Thank you for good advices. In this particular case a new retainer plate comes with the bearing and the sealer is inside the bearing. But I totally get what you meen. Thanks again!
Last night I put the axle is the chest freezer and heated the bearing to 250F. It slid right on with no press and no pipe.
I then heated the locking ring (collar) to 500F and it slid on
Thank you for this comment. For sure a good method. At my place it would come to the negotiation wether the freezer is available as garage equipmen. But of course, over night could be a solutio 😁
Quote from the Chrysler factory service manual (1971): "CAUTION: Under no circumstances should axle shaft collars or bearings be removed using a torch. The use of a torch in the removal of axle shaft collars or bearings is an unsafe practice, because heat is fed into the axle shaft bearing journal and thereby weakens this area."
To safely remove the collar(never re-use them) simply drill 2 or 3 holes across the outside face of it and then use a cold chisel to split the collar. The collar is what stops the axle from exiting the rear axle assembly with drum, tire and all in tow; always replace it. Your bearing should come with a new one.
Luckily this is a 1970 axle :) just joking. When we deal with old stuff that is stuck or rusted, which they never had to do when they wrote the service manual, we usually have to go beyond the manual. In general I agree with the manual but as long as we heat things and are careful to not overheat things, change color, turning blue or purple, affecting hardening or tempering we should be on the safe side. I have seen plenty of other metods like drilling or using an angle grinder leaving nasty damages in the axle wich are perhaps even worse. In this particular video I wanted to show how to remove the collar in one piece without having access to drill or angle grinder. The same with the bearing roller basket. The struggle removing the bearing that way makes it possible to use the bearing rings for other jobs in the press or whenever they could come handy :) I'm awere that there is a special tool for just about everything you can do on a car but In the video serie Ifixmycarmyself I always try to show how we can fix things without half a million $ wort of tools, just like the average garage guy situation and perhaps does'n even have a sevice manual. That is the basic principle for the wole channel. Thank you for your comment!
The amount of heat he is putting into the bearing race, with what appears to be a propane torch, will not harm the axle. The FSM is likely referring to oxy-acetylene, which does create enough heat to harm metallurgy.
What type of car or truck is this going into?
@@moparnut6286 my -70 Challenger 440 sixpak.
Whats the part number for this bearing
sorry, can't remember but search for Green ball bearing.
Damn dude you forgot something you put on first before you put some bearings on
Haha, don’t worry, these particular bearings are ball bearing and the bearing retainer slides over the bearing and a locking ring fits in a groove on the outer bearing ring and will keep the bearing and retainer in place. But if it was a conical bearing I would for sure share your concern :)
Heck I take a UT off tool and cut a notch then take a chisel and split it
Agree, but scope of this, and some other of my videos, is to show it can be done with a minimum of simple tools.:)
Cut a groove into the inner race, careful…not all the way through. Strike with hammer/chisel and the race splits , slides off.
cut with what? i dont have a cut just a hammer and chisel
@@Titan-dm2mo in the past I have used a cutting torch . Just enough to blast a groove without penetrating into the shaft. Sounds difficult but easier than you think. I have used cutting discs and carbide burrs. The race is so hard that all you need is a start and it will fracture very easily and slide off.
Yes Your perfectly right. Here I go through a tideous process just because I wanted to show it can be done with only simple hand-tool and the other reason was that I wanted to save the bearing races, for whatever hackjob the will com handy for, who knows :)